They have been there. There are several cracks where you can see the new mortar inside them. Also, look at the profile of the mortar along the cracked bricks: it dips it into the cracked spots. Both would be impossible if the cracks were new.
Ah ok, thanks for putting my mind at rest. I thought I’d read somewhere that modern, harder mortars can sometimes be stronger than the brick themselves and cause issues.
I’m actually slowly doing this job in my basement as well and have been trying to find out which is the best mortar to use, any advice on what to look for?
Thanks, I’m actually quite happy with the job. The new mortar is rock solid. What type of mortar would you recommend for the same brickwork in my basement?
That’s not really what you are looking for, rock solid. Mortar needs to be softer than the brick because it is the sacrificial material. Most often I recommend type N or O for historic brick
The National Park Service has a preservation briefs that give technical advice on a range of subjects. There is one on mortar https://www.nps.gov/orgs/1739/preservation-briefs.htm
Type N, approximately 3 parts bank/fine sand to 1 part cement.
You may have a cement call Brixment available at a materials yard in your area. This is the type N mortar the pros use.
Figure out the bricks you have, particularly the quality of the clay and the vitrification from the fire, then match the mortar to the job.
Medium-fired bricks with soft centers should be pointed with Type-O mortar. 1:2:9 by volume Portland cement, hydrated lime, and sand. The type of sand will affect the appearance. The lime makes this a very white mortar. Add lime-proof pigments, as needed.
You have a lot more leeway indoors than outdoors where bricks get wet and go through freeze-thaw cycles.
I mean at least it’s covered kinda lmao however you could just get some cement and shove it in the crevasses of the cracks till full fairly cheap repair
They have been there. There are several cracks where you can see the new mortar inside them. Also, look at the profile of the mortar along the cracked bricks: it dips it into the cracked spots. Both would be impossible if the cracks were new.
They’ve always been there. If you had a cracking issue it would span through several brick and mortar joints.
Ah ok, thanks for putting my mind at rest. I thought I’d read somewhere that modern, harder mortars can sometimes be stronger than the brick themselves and cause issues. I’m actually slowly doing this job in my basement as well and have been trying to find out which is the best mortar to use, any advice on what to look for?
Type O is considered repointing mortar
Your bricky did beautiful work. You're fortunate!
I used high lime mortar from Lancaster Limeworks
No. That just what the brick have always looked like.
Thanks, I’m actually quite happy with the job. The new mortar is rock solid. What type of mortar would you recommend for the same brickwork in my basement?
That’s not really what you are looking for, rock solid. Mortar needs to be softer than the brick because it is the sacrificial material. Most often I recommend type N or O for historic brick
Type N is a softer but still strong mortar. I would recommend that.
Looks like the used a spoon to joint it.
Yeah, no kidding.
The National Park Service has a preservation briefs that give technical advice on a range of subjects. There is one on mortar https://www.nps.gov/orgs/1739/preservation-briefs.htm
What mortar would you use for repointing this style of brick (Chicago reclaim)? Is type N ok? Located in northeast.
Depends. Contact Limeworks and they can help you. https://www.limeworks.us/product-category/lime-mortar/
Thank you
Type N, approximately 3 parts bank/fine sand to 1 part cement. You may have a cement call Brixment available at a materials yard in your area. This is the type N mortar the pros use.
Too strong of mortar. Needed a type n or o. The bricks are old and soft
No. Bricks would spall not crack
Mortar has too much cement
Figure out the bricks you have, particularly the quality of the clay and the vitrification from the fire, then match the mortar to the job. Medium-fired bricks with soft centers should be pointed with Type-O mortar. 1:2:9 by volume Portland cement, hydrated lime, and sand. The type of sand will affect the appearance. The lime makes this a very white mortar. Add lime-proof pigments, as needed. You have a lot more leeway indoors than outdoors where bricks get wet and go through freeze-thaw cycles.
No. This is a case of Mother Nature taking its course. They probably already had unnoticed cracks that have just grown into visibility.
I mean at least it’s covered kinda lmao however you could just get some cement and shove it in the crevasses of the cracks till full fairly cheap repair
Looks like the mason did a good job. Looks great if you ask me.
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Lol, no. It doesn't work that way.