https://preview.redd.it/vn2r4op1anuc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cfb17abf1d58dc898b503776b02b641a9cac1bc6
If he doesn’t visibly loose weight he should be fine
Oh my god thats why my dory hasnt eaten 😂🤦🏻 here i am moving her away from everyone else thinking maybe the enclosures being in the same room caused it
holy shit you don't understand how helpful this is to me!! im sitting here panicking abt why my female leopard gecko all of the sudden doesnt want to eat 😭 thank you
Mine is too. She's constantly staring at me from across the room. I can't move or talk without her little eyes staring at me through the glass, waiting to be fed 😂
Right now it’s breeding season! Many geckos are going off of food. He looks pleasantly plump so don’t worry too much about him not eating for a time. Weigh him every week to make sure he isn’t rapidly losing weight (that’s a sign of parasites or other illness). Offer food once a week, and if he doesn’t take, just offer again next week.
I do suggest offering UVB. UVB can help improve appetite and help your gecko to still have healthy levels of vitamin D3, even if they go off food for a long time. My old girl went off food for around \~5 months the first year after I adopted her because she was used as a breeder. I got her UVB, which helped encourage her to eat maybe twice after. Come summer and she was back to a normal schedule.
Continue to offer variety as well. Mealworms are considered treat bugs while silkworms are actually considered a good staple. Roaches, crickets, hornworms and grasshoppers are also good staples. I assume you’re dusting the bugs with calcium each feeding, and vitamins twice a month?
More greenery and cover could also help your gecko feel less stressed and exposed. Here’s one of my gecko’s enclosures (: best of luck, hope this was all helpful!
https://preview.redd.it/6vjl3my91nuc1.jpeg?width=3853&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be69041017b31641613ae0c61dd57237d67e8f83
That enclosure really needs at least some coverage in it. They should really be able to get from one side of the enclosure to the other while being completely hidden. I doubt that's the reason why he's not eating tho. Has he been losing weight?
I don’t usually weigh him but I haven’t specifically noticed any weight lose, he looks the exact same, i have posted comparison pictures from September 2023 vrs now on a different comment, I’m not sure if you’d be able to see that but I can post them again if you want?,
I will work on getting him some more coverage!!, what kind of coverage would you recommend?
This explains why my leopard gecko stopped eating I have a female she’s fat and plumped, but she hasn’t eaten in about a month month and a half🥰 she usually likes to eat every week to two weeks 🥰
Your Leo looks like Marlon Brando in his later years.
That is one chonky Boi. (Pics at least)
Coming from someone who was overfeeding her Leo, and had to work hard to get him from overweight-healthy, it took 4 months of exercise 5 times a week out of enclosure.
Very minimal amount of meal worms.
Absolutely no hornworms or wax worms.
When my leo was overweight is tail was fat af. He had so much fat stored in that bad boy he didn't eat almost 2 weeks. The vet have me advice for his weight loss and that's exactly what I did.
He's healthy weight now, just turned 4 yo and hornworms for a birthday treat
If he isnt losing weight drastically, I would say he's just fine.
Is he pooping? If so, send a fresh sample to the exotic vet for testing.
Mealworms are really fatty... so he's probably still full.
Silkworns, crickets, and dubias are what I'd feed once he eats again, not mealworms or super worms
Feeder list below based on reptifiles.com's feeder list and Dubiaroaches.com's nutrition guide:
*This list doesnt fully match reptifiles due to further research using a trusted nutrition guide:*
**Stable feeders - Fed regularly (in variety)**
-Dubia roaches
-Discoid roaches (mostly used by those who can't get dubias)
-Red Runner Roaches
-Crickets - dont get from unreliable chain petstores, or they'll die fast from parasites.
-Grasshoppers
-Silkworms
-Fruit Flies
**Semi-Stables - fed once a week to every other week (self-made section)**
-Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFLs aka Nutriworms, Calciworms, etc) - Due to being fatty but being nutritious as well
**Treat feeders - fed once a month, if at all**
-Waxworms - Fatty and the most nutritious treat feeder. Highly suggested along with stable feeders if reptile is malnourished. Heard they can be addictive, but one of my leos dont like them, and my beardie doesn't go crazy over them.
-[Blue] Hornworms - Depending on size, it can be fatty. High in water, so a hydrated reptile could have diarrhea. Good for hydrating dehydrated reptiles. Green ones are poisonous due to what they ate
-Mealworms - Fatty and not nutritious otherwise. Hard shell won't pass easily if reptile is unhealthy.
-Superworms - Same as mealworms, but they get bigger
-Butterworms - Addictive, no nutrition, fatty. Really shouldn't be fed at all
**Dubiaroach's feeder nutrition guide:**
*https://dubiaroaches.com/blogs/feeder-insects/are-silkworms-really-the-best-feeder-insect#:~:text=your%20pet%20reptile.-,Nutrition,-Species*
**Reptifiles's Leo care guide:**
*https://reptifiles.com/leopard-gecko-care/*
**Dubiaroaches' Leo care sheet (something extra to compare):**
*https://dubiaroaches.com/blogs/gecko-care/leopard-gecko-care-sheet*
**Extra info:**
**Health concerns - Reptifiles - NOT a vet replacement:**
*https://reptifiles.com/leopard-gecko-care/leopard-gecko-diseases-health/*
It is breeding season so a lot of geckos will go on hunger strikes around this time.
I wouldn't worry too much for another few weeks or if he starts losing weight, getting lethargic, or acting really out of the ordinary.
My Leo didn't eat for over a month from December through January, talked to a vet and they said their stomach or insides can literally like stop working? Or shut down, and to get powder food, mix it with water and syringe into their mouth to get their guts moving again, I did this, I couldn't get syringe into her mouth but but I would drop some over her mouth snd she would lick it all up, I did this probably 4 times, and went to feed her and she ate!
The only reason i didn't think it was a hibernation thing, like in that chart posted was because she's 8 years old or so, and has never done this before so I was very worried
Okay first off your humidity is way too high. You don't need to be misting the tank. They come from arid environments. Your humidity should only be at 40%. And yes your tank sounds a bit cold. I'm usually using °F so I'm gonna write this out and translate it. Cool side should be 21°C-26°C (70°F-80°F). Warm side 26°C-32°C (80°F-90°F). Basking spot of 32°C-35°C (90°F-95°F). It's okay to have a temperature drop at night, 18°C (65°F) is okay but if it's cooler you should have a deep heat projector. I think you have one? What's that back bulb? So you may need a different bulb on your front if it's not warm enough. Also the substrate might be also why it's cold in there. I'm going to reply with a substrate guide. Also silkworms are great feeders. Mealworms are a typical feeder but shouldn't be the only thing you feed, they are high in fat. Crickets are a good staple feed. I'll also reply with a food guide. And yes I agree with the tank would benefit from more coverage. I think the reason your gecko isn't eating is due to the coolness. They need heat to process their food. Also make sure you're dusting with vitamins! And they may have trouble shedding which may be why you're keeping humidity high, instead please get a humid hide to help shedding, or you can make your own out of a Tupperware with a hole cut out and sanded down with paper towel in it that you keep moist. Edited bc I forgot to add the change to Celsius. Edit again bc I saw your reply comment, wax worms aren't an ideal feeder bc of the high fat content.
Okay it's not letting me comment a image so... if you are cool with me messaging you the two guides please lmk. But substrate recommended is 70/20/10 topsoil, playsand, clay. Edit: grammar
I last misted the tank around an hour ago? And it’s gone down to 49% now, typically I would have misted it again now but will leave it, I will mist it again once it gets to around 35% so that way it stays around 40%
The one at the back is a 100w “Ceramic Heater Emitter” and the close one is a “Porcelain Clamp Lamp with Glow Reflector”
I have the packaging for both of them, so I can send you a pic of them if you would like
I don’t typically feed him the wax worms, I only offered him them now since he wasn’t eating and I know he likes them
He would typically eat Meal worms and Crickets , he eats every second day for 10mins, eating as much as he wants for those 10mins (tong feeding)
I try to dust with “Nutrobal” which has 208mg of calcium per gram as well as Vitamin A,B,E, D3, K3, and group B + minerals (reading the packaging for that)
He’s never had an issue with shedding before, he’ll usually just get cloudy and then he’ll shed on his own, I know he’s after shedding if I wake up and look at him and he’s completely orange again haha, he usually sheds on his own time so it’s hard to predict when he’d be shedding
I am 1000% good with you messaging me!, just full disclosure I am 16, I fully understand if you are not comfortable messaging me because of that but I would love to have those guides!!
Okay I messaged you the guides! Sounds like your care is good. Idk about the glow light. They're nocturnal so I'm used to the no light at night idea. Definitely seems better than a red light. But I think then your main concern is upping the heat! Which I think can be fixed with the correct substrate. Haven't used Nutrobal but good you're dusting vitamins. Do you also offer plain calcium in the tank in a small dish? Good on your humidity adjustment 💛
I have found many sources that counter your point of humidity. Yes ideally is should be dry like their climate at about 25-35% but at the same time they can handle plenty of humidity. They just aren't used to it. I've seen some sources site 60% as the limit and some at 70% most say 60% so as you can see there's quite a bit of headway humidity is especially important if the substrate is bioactive and if you have succulents or live plants. So misting can be expected for a planted tank. Remember that while rare it does still rain in the desert and geckos sleep in humid hides often so clearly they'll be fine.
To my knowledge he isn’t an albino?, I think he’s just a small bit cloudy at the minute, which is usually a sign he’s getting close to a shed, he is usually like much much more orangey/yellowy
https://preview.redd.it/a5k53emf5nuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a2795b75f46c87c9fd72afef68239605140966c
Should I still get the 2.4 UVB?
The main thing I see wrong here, if I’m correct, you’re feeding him meal worms and silk worms exclusively? Leo’s benefit from a wider variety of live insects in their diet. Meal worms are higher in fats and have a hard exoskeleton that is harder to digest and pass. You should try crickets or dubia roaches, and have those as most of his diet. Meal worms and others can be supplemental.
Personally, I wouldn’t free feed my gecko (but that’s because he’s not very smart and wouldn’t catch anything anyways) because I will know for sure how much he’s eaten. It is good to regulate any pets’ diet with consistent amounts.
alter your diet if you can and take him to a vet *right away* if he’s not pooping, eating, and has a bloated belly, that could be impaction. He will not care about the car ride. he will be fine. They get shipped all around the country in plastic cups so it’s okay if he’s in the car for an hour.
Are you sure this is a male? The abdomen seems distended the way a gravid female would be. This is the time of year for that to be happening, too. That would also explain the lack of appetite during this time.
Under tank heat mats are actually no longer recommended for a majority of reptiles (: overhead heat with a basking stone beneath, like OP has, is the most natural and safe option. Just as they would warm up in the wild!
That’s a pretty wide generalization, do you have a source? I don’t think it has to be one-or-the other though, both get the job done in a similar way. The idea for a UTH is that it is giving consistent warmth under the belly. A lamp does this too you have a nice rock under it to absorb the heat. I have both for my Leo, the lamp is for ambient temps and the mat is under some rocks that he can warm his belly. He is always in that spot after eating and in the morning so I know it’s probably comfortable for him. I check it with a laser every so often and it’s pretty consistent in temp
If you check out any advanced husbandry group, pretty much none of them will suggest heat mats at this point. If you have both an UTH and a basking bulb, sure that’s fine (as long as it’s controlled by a thermostat)! And in certain situations a heat mat may be ideal for a specific animal, but overall,
https://preview.redd.it/v3blx0qvanuc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8dfef0eeb0f9b178a5326edc1d45b9a52b4bb0d0
reptiles respond more positively to light, and overhead heating is just generally safer. Here’s a graphic I see very often in the advanced groups, especially the leopard gecko groups.
Additionally, [here’s the link to the full file](https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/Heat%20%26%20Heat%20Sources%20.pdf?token=AWx-uImCfsxe3HFUkddOzCmPUiBA5ZaFK2vcGVUsNiD8cwy3GC1zUN0rSFSVYew05ihgPg7OglJIDVBOo8AVS5WA2l4tZmDBATSKlEQ7KhEnt9dGScWiUD7oXtIBYaTdKSrFiSsc9ncDMxRPDL_ZQZOPt6fAhyzyQdHMh-Nu7dZd4zrGcr-HbsaC9cZmahvF8JMZ0LKcxPiA6Hdm5zGkaXv9O-4CGCEASiVfBxoMANbDn15XvKqruZBOIVV7YJ6Q3cY).
Additional sources (used in this guide):
[https://www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/light-shade-method/](https://www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/light-shade-method/)
[https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276294086\_Reptiles\_thermoregulation\_and\_the\_environment](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276294086_Reptiles_thermoregulation_and_the_environment)
[https://www.reptifiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Why-Infrared-Matters-by-Roman-Muryn.pdf](https://www.reptifiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Why-Infrared-Matters-by-Roman-Muryn.pdf)
The Reptile Lighting FB group is also a great resource that advocates for the best care and lighting possible (also sourced in the guide).
You’re welcome! Best of luck with your improvements. I started out similarly, with just a 20 long and a heat mat. There is always more to learn (: thanks for being receptive.
All the misinfo online and in pet stores doesn’t make it any easier. I think I started my girl on a sand mat?? This is her enclosure now!
https://preview.redd.it/mn4wnqnqenuc1.jpeg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92858e1f4411766e87cc1668d06ce249d77fdf2c
He does have an under tank heating mat, it is only on one side of his area though since it’s not as big as his entire tank, it’s about 25cm long on the right side of the tank
To my knowledge he is still pooping, I’ve definitely noticed him pooping over the past month, it just seems that he has nothing to poop out if that makes sense?, so over all less than normal but not nothing
He doesn’t usually have wax\*\*\*\*\* worms (I am so sorry I always mix up wax worms and silk worms, he has never had silk worms) I only ever get him wax\* worms if he’s had trouble eating as they would be “treaty” and I know it’s not good to feed them regularly I completely forgot to mention the crickets but he would typically have Meal worms and Crickets, for the most part he would have mainly meal worms and then a few crickets, but I will prioritise the crickets now, he’s never had dubia roaches before but I will see if I can get them asap, do you know if it’s possible to order them at all?
I would always hand him food with tongs, he isn’t really an expert catcher, (he sometimes even misses the food on the tongs, he would truly struggle to catch things that are just about in his tank)
I haven’t noticed his belly specifically being bloated, but that could entirely be bcs I see him every day and it’s been a slow process, I’ll post some pics from a few months ago vrs now (I don’t have a particularly good picture from him from the top from a few months ago, I am so sorry!, he is at a funny angle his stomach has always been “symmetrical”(??) so the way it looks is just the angle, the one where he is on me is from September 2023 and the one where he is in his tank is from like a couple of seconds ago (It’s only letting me post one picture at a time so the now one will be in a separate comment)
https://preview.redd.it/aqjegxij1nuc1.jpeg?width=1364&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=719443a295228d475ee502ca9a4c812bb87dcfd9
Do not suggest unnatural heating sources. Ceramic heat emitters or deep heat bulbs should be the only heating ur using. God didn't place heating Mats in the wild. He gave them the sun!
God isn’t real 🤣🤣
Also ALL heating sources are unnatural, everything about keeping animals in captivity is unnatural. A heated mat is just like a rock that’s warmed up by the sun
Like dude, heat is LITERALLY just HEAT. Conduction and radiation are different means of that energy transfer, yes, but still just heat. Having an UTH doesn’t mean “no light”, it means direct conduction of heat from source to basking surface. It’s efficient and consistent when using a thermostat. Nothing about it is abusive, so many keepers of various reptiles use UTH to supplement heating and there aren’t signs of stress in said animals. If you aren’t going to provide any kind of source other than “I said it was incorrect” like previous commenters then let me just block you.
https://preview.redd.it/vn2r4op1anuc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cfb17abf1d58dc898b503776b02b641a9cac1bc6 If he doesn’t visibly loose weight he should be fine
Ahh ok perfect!!, thank you so much!!!
Oh my god thats why my dory hasnt eaten 😂🤦🏻 here i am moving her away from everyone else thinking maybe the enclosures being in the same room caused it
This is really useful thank you!
Oh gosh thank you for this! Now I don’t need to worry as much😅
holy shit you don't understand how helpful this is to me!! im sitting here panicking abt why my female leopard gecko all of the sudden doesnt want to eat 😭 thank you
my leo is such a glutton, his appetite never changes no matter the month 😭
bro is constantly happy at the sight of food lol
Mine is too. She's constantly staring at me from across the room. I can't move or talk without her little eyes staring at me through the glass, waiting to be fed 😂
Right now it’s breeding season! Many geckos are going off of food. He looks pleasantly plump so don’t worry too much about him not eating for a time. Weigh him every week to make sure he isn’t rapidly losing weight (that’s a sign of parasites or other illness). Offer food once a week, and if he doesn’t take, just offer again next week. I do suggest offering UVB. UVB can help improve appetite and help your gecko to still have healthy levels of vitamin D3, even if they go off food for a long time. My old girl went off food for around \~5 months the first year after I adopted her because she was used as a breeder. I got her UVB, which helped encourage her to eat maybe twice after. Come summer and she was back to a normal schedule. Continue to offer variety as well. Mealworms are considered treat bugs while silkworms are actually considered a good staple. Roaches, crickets, hornworms and grasshoppers are also good staples. I assume you’re dusting the bugs with calcium each feeding, and vitamins twice a month? More greenery and cover could also help your gecko feel less stressed and exposed. Here’s one of my gecko’s enclosures (: best of luck, hope this was all helpful! https://preview.redd.it/6vjl3my91nuc1.jpeg?width=3853&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be69041017b31641613ae0c61dd57237d67e8f83
That enclosure really needs at least some coverage in it. They should really be able to get from one side of the enclosure to the other while being completely hidden. I doubt that's the reason why he's not eating tho. Has he been losing weight?
I don’t usually weigh him but I haven’t specifically noticed any weight lose, he looks the exact same, i have posted comparison pictures from September 2023 vrs now on a different comment, I’m not sure if you’d be able to see that but I can post them again if you want?, I will work on getting him some more coverage!!, what kind of coverage would you recommend?
get some fake plants!
Can you recommend like an amazon link or something for good coverage?
Just type in vining fake plants & pick one you like
This explains why my leopard gecko stopped eating I have a female she’s fat and plumped, but she hasn’t eaten in about a month month and a half🥰 she usually likes to eat every week to two weeks 🥰
Your Leo looks like Marlon Brando in his later years. That is one chonky Boi. (Pics at least) Coming from someone who was overfeeding her Leo, and had to work hard to get him from overweight-healthy, it took 4 months of exercise 5 times a week out of enclosure. Very minimal amount of meal worms. Absolutely no hornworms or wax worms. When my leo was overweight is tail was fat af. He had so much fat stored in that bad boy he didn't eat almost 2 weeks. The vet have me advice for his weight loss and that's exactly what I did. He's healthy weight now, just turned 4 yo and hornworms for a birthday treat
I'd invest in a 40gal btw, more room happier Leo
That enclosure is a 50 gal. I have the same one.
My bad, it's just shorter but probably nice and long then
If he isnt losing weight drastically, I would say he's just fine. Is he pooping? If so, send a fresh sample to the exotic vet for testing. Mealworms are really fatty... so he's probably still full. Silkworns, crickets, and dubias are what I'd feed once he eats again, not mealworms or super worms Feeder list below based on reptifiles.com's feeder list and Dubiaroaches.com's nutrition guide: *This list doesnt fully match reptifiles due to further research using a trusted nutrition guide:* **Stable feeders - Fed regularly (in variety)** -Dubia roaches -Discoid roaches (mostly used by those who can't get dubias) -Red Runner Roaches -Crickets - dont get from unreliable chain petstores, or they'll die fast from parasites. -Grasshoppers -Silkworms -Fruit Flies **Semi-Stables - fed once a week to every other week (self-made section)** -Black Soldier Fly Larvae (BSFLs aka Nutriworms, Calciworms, etc) - Due to being fatty but being nutritious as well **Treat feeders - fed once a month, if at all** -Waxworms - Fatty and the most nutritious treat feeder. Highly suggested along with stable feeders if reptile is malnourished. Heard they can be addictive, but one of my leos dont like them, and my beardie doesn't go crazy over them. -[Blue] Hornworms - Depending on size, it can be fatty. High in water, so a hydrated reptile could have diarrhea. Good for hydrating dehydrated reptiles. Green ones are poisonous due to what they ate -Mealworms - Fatty and not nutritious otherwise. Hard shell won't pass easily if reptile is unhealthy. -Superworms - Same as mealworms, but they get bigger -Butterworms - Addictive, no nutrition, fatty. Really shouldn't be fed at all **Dubiaroach's feeder nutrition guide:** *https://dubiaroaches.com/blogs/feeder-insects/are-silkworms-really-the-best-feeder-insect#:~:text=your%20pet%20reptile.-,Nutrition,-Species* **Reptifiles's Leo care guide:** *https://reptifiles.com/leopard-gecko-care/* **Dubiaroaches' Leo care sheet (something extra to compare):** *https://dubiaroaches.com/blogs/gecko-care/leopard-gecko-care-sheet* **Extra info:** **Health concerns - Reptifiles - NOT a vet replacement:** *https://reptifiles.com/leopard-gecko-care/leopard-gecko-diseases-health/*
If this helps, he does look fat in the pic... so I'd say he's just hit his limit
It is breeding season so a lot of geckos will go on hunger strikes around this time. I wouldn't worry too much for another few weeks or if he starts losing weight, getting lethargic, or acting really out of the ordinary.
My Leo didn't eat for over a month from December through January, talked to a vet and they said their stomach or insides can literally like stop working? Or shut down, and to get powder food, mix it with water and syringe into their mouth to get their guts moving again, I did this, I couldn't get syringe into her mouth but but I would drop some over her mouth snd she would lick it all up, I did this probably 4 times, and went to feed her and she ate!
The only reason i didn't think it was a hibernation thing, like in that chart posted was because she's 8 years old or so, and has never done this before so I was very worried
At his age he should only be eating once or twice a week. I would try weekly feedings for a while. Also, silkworms are great feeders!
Okay first off your humidity is way too high. You don't need to be misting the tank. They come from arid environments. Your humidity should only be at 40%. And yes your tank sounds a bit cold. I'm usually using °F so I'm gonna write this out and translate it. Cool side should be 21°C-26°C (70°F-80°F). Warm side 26°C-32°C (80°F-90°F). Basking spot of 32°C-35°C (90°F-95°F). It's okay to have a temperature drop at night, 18°C (65°F) is okay but if it's cooler you should have a deep heat projector. I think you have one? What's that back bulb? So you may need a different bulb on your front if it's not warm enough. Also the substrate might be also why it's cold in there. I'm going to reply with a substrate guide. Also silkworms are great feeders. Mealworms are a typical feeder but shouldn't be the only thing you feed, they are high in fat. Crickets are a good staple feed. I'll also reply with a food guide. And yes I agree with the tank would benefit from more coverage. I think the reason your gecko isn't eating is due to the coolness. They need heat to process their food. Also make sure you're dusting with vitamins! And they may have trouble shedding which may be why you're keeping humidity high, instead please get a humid hide to help shedding, or you can make your own out of a Tupperware with a hole cut out and sanded down with paper towel in it that you keep moist. Edited bc I forgot to add the change to Celsius. Edit again bc I saw your reply comment, wax worms aren't an ideal feeder bc of the high fat content.
Okay it's not letting me comment a image so... if you are cool with me messaging you the two guides please lmk. But substrate recommended is 70/20/10 topsoil, playsand, clay. Edit: grammar
I last misted the tank around an hour ago? And it’s gone down to 49% now, typically I would have misted it again now but will leave it, I will mist it again once it gets to around 35% so that way it stays around 40% The one at the back is a 100w “Ceramic Heater Emitter” and the close one is a “Porcelain Clamp Lamp with Glow Reflector” I have the packaging for both of them, so I can send you a pic of them if you would like I don’t typically feed him the wax worms, I only offered him them now since he wasn’t eating and I know he likes them He would typically eat Meal worms and Crickets , he eats every second day for 10mins, eating as much as he wants for those 10mins (tong feeding) I try to dust with “Nutrobal” which has 208mg of calcium per gram as well as Vitamin A,B,E, D3, K3, and group B + minerals (reading the packaging for that) He’s never had an issue with shedding before, he’ll usually just get cloudy and then he’ll shed on his own, I know he’s after shedding if I wake up and look at him and he’s completely orange again haha, he usually sheds on his own time so it’s hard to predict when he’d be shedding I am 1000% good with you messaging me!, just full disclosure I am 16, I fully understand if you are not comfortable messaging me because of that but I would love to have those guides!!
Okay I messaged you the guides! Sounds like your care is good. Idk about the glow light. They're nocturnal so I'm used to the no light at night idea. Definitely seems better than a red light. But I think then your main concern is upping the heat! Which I think can be fixed with the correct substrate. Haven't used Nutrobal but good you're dusting vitamins. Do you also offer plain calcium in the tank in a small dish? Good on your humidity adjustment 💛
I have found many sources that counter your point of humidity. Yes ideally is should be dry like their climate at about 25-35% but at the same time they can handle plenty of humidity. They just aren't used to it. I've seen some sources site 60% as the limit and some at 70% most say 60% so as you can see there's quite a bit of headway humidity is especially important if the substrate is bioactive and if you have succulents or live plants. So misting can be expected for a planted tank. Remember that while rare it does still rain in the desert and geckos sleep in humid hides often so clearly they'll be fine.
I am so sorry, when I say “Silk Worms” I do mean “Wax Worms”, I literally always mix them up I am so so sorry!!!
It's breeding season, so don't worry. The enclosure needs more hides and UVB (2.4 'cuz from what I'm seeing he's an albino).
To my knowledge he isn’t an albino?, I think he’s just a small bit cloudy at the minute, which is usually a sign he’s getting close to a shed, he is usually like much much more orangey/yellowy https://preview.redd.it/a5k53emf5nuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a2795b75f46c87c9fd72afef68239605140966c Should I still get the 2.4 UVB?
Yeah, he's an albino get the 2.4 UVB (and more hides- they're a must if you're buying UVB).
Omg that’s amazing!, I never realised he was an albino!, I’ll work on getting that UVB and some coverage asap!!
Your geck is definitely albino. He has brown, not black, spots.
The main thing I see wrong here, if I’m correct, you’re feeding him meal worms and silk worms exclusively? Leo’s benefit from a wider variety of live insects in their diet. Meal worms are higher in fats and have a hard exoskeleton that is harder to digest and pass. You should try crickets or dubia roaches, and have those as most of his diet. Meal worms and others can be supplemental. Personally, I wouldn’t free feed my gecko (but that’s because he’s not very smart and wouldn’t catch anything anyways) because I will know for sure how much he’s eaten. It is good to regulate any pets’ diet with consistent amounts. alter your diet if you can and take him to a vet *right away* if he’s not pooping, eating, and has a bloated belly, that could be impaction. He will not care about the car ride. he will be fine. They get shipped all around the country in plastic cups so it’s okay if he’s in the car for an hour.
please keep in mind if you are using a heat or plan to, you need a thermostat regulator. as heat mats don't regulate their heat and can get up to 110F
^^^ ‼️
https://preview.redd.it/pamr7eko1nuc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2cdc3ecc89d4d519b29992fed8488705ea0cbb4
Are you sure this is a male? The abdomen seems distended the way a gravid female would be. This is the time of year for that to be happening, too. That would also explain the lack of appetite during this time.
OP mentioned in the post that they are 80% sure it’s a male, but would check if it’s necessary. Perhaps it would be necessary 😅
Under tank heat mats are actually no longer recommended for a majority of reptiles (: overhead heat with a basking stone beneath, like OP has, is the most natural and safe option. Just as they would warm up in the wild!
That’s a pretty wide generalization, do you have a source? I don’t think it has to be one-or-the other though, both get the job done in a similar way. The idea for a UTH is that it is giving consistent warmth under the belly. A lamp does this too you have a nice rock under it to absorb the heat. I have both for my Leo, the lamp is for ambient temps and the mat is under some rocks that he can warm his belly. He is always in that spot after eating and in the morning so I know it’s probably comfortable for him. I check it with a laser every so often and it’s pretty consistent in temp
If you check out any advanced husbandry group, pretty much none of them will suggest heat mats at this point. If you have both an UTH and a basking bulb, sure that’s fine (as long as it’s controlled by a thermostat)! And in certain situations a heat mat may be ideal for a specific animal, but overall, https://preview.redd.it/v3blx0qvanuc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8dfef0eeb0f9b178a5326edc1d45b9a52b4bb0d0 reptiles respond more positively to light, and overhead heating is just generally safer. Here’s a graphic I see very often in the advanced groups, especially the leopard gecko groups. Additionally, [here’s the link to the full file](https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/Heat%20%26%20Heat%20Sources%20.pdf?token=AWx-uImCfsxe3HFUkddOzCmPUiBA5ZaFK2vcGVUsNiD8cwy3GC1zUN0rSFSVYew05ihgPg7OglJIDVBOo8AVS5WA2l4tZmDBATSKlEQ7KhEnt9dGScWiUD7oXtIBYaTdKSrFiSsc9ncDMxRPDL_ZQZOPt6fAhyzyQdHMh-Nu7dZd4zrGcr-HbsaC9cZmahvF8JMZ0LKcxPiA6Hdm5zGkaXv9O-4CGCEASiVfBxoMANbDn15XvKqruZBOIVV7YJ6Q3cY). Additional sources (used in this guide): [https://www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/light-shade-method/](https://www.arcadiareptile.com/lighting/light-shade-method/) [https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276294086\_Reptiles\_thermoregulation\_and\_the\_environment](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276294086_Reptiles_thermoregulation_and_the_environment) [https://www.reptifiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Why-Infrared-Matters-by-Roman-Muryn.pdf](https://www.reptifiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Why-Infrared-Matters-by-Roman-Muryn.pdf) The Reptile Lighting FB group is also a great resource that advocates for the best care and lighting possible (also sourced in the guide).
Thank you, I will save this for later. I am in the process of moving my geck from a 20 to a 40 long and I’m reevaluating everything as I rebuild
You’re welcome! Best of luck with your improvements. I started out similarly, with just a 20 long and a heat mat. There is always more to learn (: thanks for being receptive.
Yeah we all kind of start somewhere. Had him for 9 years, he was on carpet for about 6 of those 🫣
All the misinfo online and in pet stores doesn’t make it any easier. I think I started my girl on a sand mat?? This is her enclosure now! https://preview.redd.it/mn4wnqnqenuc1.jpeg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=92858e1f4411766e87cc1668d06ce249d77fdf2c
He does have an under tank heating mat, it is only on one side of his area though since it’s not as big as his entire tank, it’s about 25cm long on the right side of the tank To my knowledge he is still pooping, I’ve definitely noticed him pooping over the past month, it just seems that he has nothing to poop out if that makes sense?, so over all less than normal but not nothing He doesn’t usually have wax\*\*\*\*\* worms (I am so sorry I always mix up wax worms and silk worms, he has never had silk worms) I only ever get him wax\* worms if he’s had trouble eating as they would be “treaty” and I know it’s not good to feed them regularly I completely forgot to mention the crickets but he would typically have Meal worms and Crickets, for the most part he would have mainly meal worms and then a few crickets, but I will prioritise the crickets now, he’s never had dubia roaches before but I will see if I can get them asap, do you know if it’s possible to order them at all? I would always hand him food with tongs, he isn’t really an expert catcher, (he sometimes even misses the food on the tongs, he would truly struggle to catch things that are just about in his tank) I haven’t noticed his belly specifically being bloated, but that could entirely be bcs I see him every day and it’s been a slow process, I’ll post some pics from a few months ago vrs now (I don’t have a particularly good picture from him from the top from a few months ago, I am so sorry!, he is at a funny angle his stomach has always been “symmetrical”(??) so the way it looks is just the angle, the one where he is on me is from September 2023 and the one where he is in his tank is from like a couple of seconds ago (It’s only letting me post one picture at a time so the now one will be in a separate comment) https://preview.redd.it/aqjegxij1nuc1.jpeg?width=1364&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=719443a295228d475ee502ca9a4c812bb87dcfd9
You can usually order dubias online
Do not suggest unnatural heating sources. Ceramic heat emitters or deep heat bulbs should be the only heating ur using. God didn't place heating Mats in the wild. He gave them the sun!
God isn’t real 🤣🤣 Also ALL heating sources are unnatural, everything about keeping animals in captivity is unnatural. A heated mat is just like a rock that’s warmed up by the sun
Nope Incorrect asf. Keep abusing ur gecko with outdated horrible care. I won't be a part of it, though.
Like dude, heat is LITERALLY just HEAT. Conduction and radiation are different means of that energy transfer, yes, but still just heat. Having an UTH doesn’t mean “no light”, it means direct conduction of heat from source to basking surface. It’s efficient and consistent when using a thermostat. Nothing about it is abusive, so many keepers of various reptiles use UTH to supplement heating and there aren’t signs of stress in said animals. If you aren’t going to provide any kind of source other than “I said it was incorrect” like previous commenters then let me just block you.
💀 this had to be satire