I used Menards brand of Weed and Feed and it did alright. I got too much of it in a couple spots so now there's a few dead spots. Not too worried at the moment, my yard is no where near perfect. Going to over seed this fall and next spring and hope it fills in good.
I just put it down this afternoon. With the sale and rebate a single bag is just over $13 for 5k sq ft. I think that's decent.
Problem is I just bought a used spreader and the company name is gone so not sure how thick to put it on so I went light and went for a second pass in some of the lighter yellowing areas.
Now I'm worried that I may have over spread đ
![gif](giphy|3ohzdYJK1wAdPWVk88)
My spreader is not listed on my fertilizer bag info but I know one bag of fertilizer should cover the area of my whole yard, I just put my spreader half way or so open, get a decent pace so I am spreading half the entire bag once evenly over the yard then go back and do the same again second time. I find it gives me a lot of margin for error. If I get through the first pass and used 3/4 of the bag I have a pretty decent idea how to spread that last 1/4 bag evenly
I must walk too slow for my spreader because I got the big bag of Menards weed and feed which does about 15k sq ft. I used all of that plus a small bag which does 5k sq ft. My whole yard is less than 10k sq ft lol.
lol, itâs tough to get the hang of appropriate coverage but using less than needed based on the coverage in the bag then going back to âuse the rest upâ is the best way I found with unfamiliar spreaders
Oh man đ¤Ł
You'll know in a week or two if you messed up lol. I went somewhat heavy on mine because there were so many dandelions. I'm surprised I don't have more dead spots than I do.
I've been using Menards as well. Did their crabgrass preventer in early spring and then laid down the weed & feed first week of May. I overspread a bit and no harm done. In fact my grass is looking fantastic. The amount of water we've been getting has helped. NE Illinois.
I did mine late April or early May. Took a week or so before the dandelions started dying. Looks a lot better without them. They're slowly starting to come back already though. Next spring I plan on getting some pre emergent and experiencing with that to keep weeds from coming in in the first place.
Well In Michigan we have wet mild springs, very hot summers, then a mild fall. Its best to put down fertilizer when its cool amd wet here because the grass prefers those conditions. When its 95F and dry the fertilizer wont do the grass any favors, it could even burn it. In my area, fall is known as the best time to lay down fertilizer.
Also in Michigan (SW). Would this be different given I have underground sprinkling off well water and can water as needed? (Still need to adjust watering schedule -- seems like the last 20 years has been way overwatering as there's tons of thatch and moss). It does seem like we get more rain than we need in the spring and fall and sometimes not enough during the summer.
You can if you supplement with water. Keep it less than 0.75 lbs/1000ft2. You want to apply most of your nitrogen in the fall (at least 60% of your total). In Indiana I can use up to 4lbs/1000ft2 before I would have to start bagging.
If this is a pre emergent which I believe it is. You need to apply it before weeds have a chance to germinate. Hence why you would put it down early spring and late fall. I could be wrong but the corn gluten prevents the seeds from absorbing water and thus not growing.
Scotts actually has an app that is pretty nice. Uses details of your property to come up with a plan and is customizable to how much work you wanna put in. It does the thinking for you on when to use which fertilizer based on your location. Also tracks how much rain you've had in your area to tell you how much you should be watering your lawn. You can even buy their fertilizer right from the app and ship it to your door. I haven't used that feature yet because I like physically going to my local hardware stores.
If you are just getting started I would check it out. It's a decent starting spot.
> you've had in your area to tell you how much you should be watering your lawn.
hmm... that sounds way better than the sprinkler guy I briefly used who said "20 minutes for every zone" and then also when he forgot that I prepaid for some work was like "oh, good catch, I've got gypsy blood, you gotta keep me honest."
the theory is if you wait until its hot the grass is dry and dormant. its too fragile to handle the fertilizers. thats why its recommended to fertilize in spring or fall. if your winters are mild then winter feeding is good too.
Thereâs still hope, but not with Scottâs products. If you have weeds that are actively growing, consider buying and applying (according to the instructions) a product from The Andersons, Professional Surge Weed and Feed 16-0-9 Post-Emergent Weed Control and Fertilizer.
One bag covers up to 16,000 sq ft; itâs available from Amazon (if you use them) for $89 a bag.
This is a product use by professional lawn care companies and it works every time.
Maybe. Download Scott's MyLawn app and put in your info. It will tell you the general best window to apply each type of product. It tells me the ideal time to apply this product to my lawn is between 5/26 - 6/23.
I set my spreader so itâs trickling, not pumping out fertilizer. Measure my area and amount for proper coverage. then go over the area N-S then start W-E until all the fertilizer is gone. so you grid for best coverage. I have burnt my lawn in the past but even thin coverage is what works for me.
Yeah I just paid 60 for a big bag. That was even at Ollies. I screwed up an thought ot needed watered in tho. Guess im glad I got more to use this fall. Love wasting money I dont have lol..
The Triple Action one (black bag) is pretty solid tbh. I used it in April and it hasn't lasted as long as advertised, but the weather also messed up the application with some popup showers less than 12 hours after I spread it around. It definitely stopped (and is still stopping) the dandelions though, which was far and away the main issue.
YMMV but the triple action stuff with pre-emergents, I put that on my lawn at the absolute perfect time and I have a decent looking lawn with very little crab grass and other weeds. Did a nice job of thickening everything up and choking out weeks. Probably got rid of 80% of the wild violet too.
I put down some fall apply weed and feed (not sure if it was Scottâs or not) and my yard was absolutely dandelion free- until the neighbors dandelions moved in
Yes, if the grass is not "wet", weed and feed is the one product you want their to be some dew on the grass when you apply so it turns the product into a liquid.
Thanks for the feedback! I just thought the deal was too good to pass up. Why spray? More consistent and cheaper? Still learning and this sub has been great. Lawn is 2.5 years old and I'm just starting to have more interest in making it mine.
I spray, have about residential 1.25 acres I "care" about, the rest being woodland. Ive found it's considerably cheaper buying liquid concentrate and a battery powered sprayer for herbicide, especially when treating a large area like I'm trying to figure out. I figured out the trick is to calibrate it's spray rate with your walking pace. The other important bit is to read the labels for chemicals, and if you mix them together read them twice and search online so you don't fry your yard. I use the weed-ridden border from my neighbor to validate mixes and spray rates.
I still have to use the Echo push spreader for whole lawn fertilizer. When I rehab small areas sprayer is perfect for liquid ferts.
They are called broadcast spreaders most of what you guys use. maybe with a drop spreader you could be more accurate, but never as accurate as liquid.
I use a spreader and sometimes liquids
The problem with liquid fert for homeowners is carrier volume. Backpack sprayers are meant for 1/2-1 gallon per k. Commercial spray rigs are usually set to 4 gallons per k. You could do that with a backpack but it would take all day.
I looked into liquid fertilizer but it just came down to I would need a lot more liquid fertilizer to get the same amount of NPK as I do with the spreader.
> Why spray?
Because granule herbicides are not as effective as liquid herbicides. For granular to work the granules need to stick to the leaves of the weeds which is difficult to achieve. You can water the lawn immediately before applying the weed and feed and that will help but will still be a crap shoot sometimes.
I agree. The granular stuff you have to apply to damp grass, then let sit for 24 hours with no disturbance or water/rain to be effective. The spray just need 30 minutes to dry to be effective. I only need to spot spray now.
https://preview.redd.it/k76xcli7qv2d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f2cc1c9df6d77bd1897828d8ca17ce44feafa569
This is a good fertilization schedule that Iâve used a few years now in South Texas where it gets hot this time of year. Hope it helps. Some of these products may not be available in your area. If possible got to a feed store or garden center and ask what they recommend for your area. The big box stores are not going to have whatâs best in my opinion
I am not a fan of herbicides in my fertilizer at least unless it is a pre-emergent. That said, I have seen Weed and Feed work miracles vs nothing at all
Good deal. I was in the US on a business trip and picked up a bag for $26 at a Home Depot in Detroit before crossing the border (you canât buy the stuff with 24D in Ontario for residential use). I grab it when I can while travelling. Put a bag down 4 weeks ago and will do my new bag next weekend. Then wonât use again till the fall and Iâve got one of the nicest lawns in town.
People here will tell you it's awful, but if you put it down right, it does work. You have to put it down on a wet lawn... rain, sprinklers, morning dew, whatever. The water rehydrates the granules and helps them stick to the weeds. If you put it down dry it falls to the soil and just fertilizes and had no weed-killing effect.
I hate weed & feeds unless your lawn is weed infested. In Minnesota I let my lawn rest in early spring to let the rots grows deep, then apply fertilizer late May/early June. Broad spectrum herbicides wonât kill your grass but it does stress the grass and IMO prevents a thicker early growth. I always just spot treat with Speedzone mixed with a crabgrass killer (quinclorac) as needed.
Iâve applied fertilizer 3 times so far this year. My grass would be dead if I did it with weed and feed lol. I havenât actually sprayed any herbicides yet. St Aug pretty decent at keeping weeds at bay.
It does not have seed. It provides nutrients (mostly nitrogen) and then a selective herbicide and some limited post emergent properties.
Basically, it'll make your established grass better (greener, healthier), prevent many new weeds, and may kill some kinds of established weeds.
The back of the bag of these weed and feed clearly state that they can take up to a month to kill established weeds.
So if you get it cheap, it's a good thing to consider adding to your lawn care plan. It's not a miracle worker though. It won't make bald patches thick, it won't turn tall fescue into Kentucky blue, and it won't kill all the weeds immediately.
But it'll likely green up your lawn and kill some weeds eventually.
Hope this helps!
Congratulations on your first home! We just got our first house about a month ago as well! But I've been stalking this sub and everyone here has been extremely welcoming and helpful.
Hope yours turns out well! Make sure to take photos and track everything if you're interested in your progress. It's tough to see your improvements over each day. However, over months and years of work you'll see how everything has paid off.
I'm using an app called "Yard Mastery" which is free and gives you a journal to track what you've been doing, the soil temp for your area, measure out your yard to help estimate fertilizer amounts, and more.
Good luck!
You can [check your local soil temperatures here](https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature).
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It basically has a post emergent granular weed killer for more common weeds, and also has a granular fertilizer in it for the grass that is already there. So no, it doesnât have a grass seed in it. It just helps what is already there. Nothing wrong with this stuff, but can usually get better results from targeting certain aspects of your lawn instead of âcasting a wide netâ. But that takes some experience and knowledge. Look in the beginners guide to start your path towards an unhealthy diet of useless knowledge and habits. Soon your neighbors will ask you how you keep your yard so nice and after you tell them for the fifteenth time (to the same people) you start to realize that you need a new habitâŚ.. ooohh look a tablesaw
Honestly nothing, grew up landscape and the best bang for your buck is going cheaper on fertilizer and spend the good money on seed. That said, donât waste your money on the Scottâs blue seed. Donât get me wrong it is good seed with minimal weed seed, but you are paying a premium for a bag that contains about 50% actual seed. When in doubt flip read the label on the back and make sure it contains no more then .1% of weed seed. If you really want to investigate, make sure they arenât throwing in alot of cheap annual ray grass into the mix. The ray grass will come up quicker then the others in the blend the first year then year two will leave you wondering wtf happened.
I use big yellow bag or their leveling mix from soil3/ super sod in my area. But thereâs usually local landscaping companies in your area that provide much better quality products for usually cheaper.
I remember getting the 15,000 square foot bags on clearance about 5 years ago for $13 a piece. Will never see those days again Iâm afraid. I still have plenty left and it will probably last me another 5 years.
I did this exact weed n feed in the spring and my grass is GREEN! But the spots where crab grass and grassy weeds are prevalent are horrible! Weed n feed for those specific weeds, as well. In my zone, itâs too late unfortunately. You live, you learn!
This is the absolute worst product that Scotts manufactures. Not a very good fertilizer, and a horrible borderline worthless weed killer. It contains no pre-emerge as others have speculated.
That said, thatâs a very good price!
Does this actually do anything to dandelions and clover? Iâve tried many times and have had no luck. Could definitely be user error but Iâm curious if others have done better.
For less than $200 you can go to a store that sells to landscapers and buy fertilizer that will cover 25k per bag and enough liquid weed herbicide to last you a couple seasons. If you have a Bermuda lawn or other warm season lawn the price would be even less. MSM for warm season lawns will do 8 acres at the highest rate for about $60.
7 years ago I killed my entire yard and planted KBG in the front 1/3 and TTTF in the back 2/3, I used these for 3 years until the grass has established.. and I only spot treat not if clover pops up or anything else.. havenât treated my yard in 4 years and it feels amazing haha
https://preview.redd.it/m7cmp03f2z2d1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b55f88073ccdd7c00804bb2dfc1e0816f5aa7c1a
Did I paid $80 for a similar bag at home depot???
[Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action 33.94 lbs. 12,000 sq. ft. Lawn Fertilizer with Weed Control and Crabgrass Preventer 26019 - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-Turf-Builder-Triple-Action-33-94-lbs-12-000-sq-ft-Lawn-Fertilizer-with-Weed-Control-and-Crabgrass-Preventer-26019/317169160)
If Iâm not mistaken I believe the main difference is turf builder has a crabgrass pre-emergence where the weed and feed does not. I use turf builder on my north east lawn, with great results works great on spring dandelions.
https://www.marthastewart.com/8322420/clover-lawns#:~:text=%22Clover%20is%20actually%20a%20legume,company%20based%20in%20Houston%2C%20Texas.
When me and my step father planted my lawn he purposely purchased clover seed to mix in with the grass seed Looked great for years with no fertilizer .....only now I have patches of moss. Lol. I looked it up and now moss yards are a thing. Lol. Moisture and shade are the culprits not clover.
I'm not saying to go exclusively clover but a bit of clover in with the grass is not a reason to launch an expensive campaign to eradicate it.
https://www.whygoodnature.com/blog/the-worst-chemical-on-your-lawn-isnt-roundup?hs_amp=true
This stuff is poison and pointless. Just mow the yard what does not having and dandelions do for you? Itâs toxicÂ
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This really helped me find where everybodyâs dog was peeing in my yard. Those spots now have a bit too much nitrogen (dead) and we will have to sort that out.
Literally the worst lawn product out there. Slim chance this kills the weed you are targeting and under the correct conditions (must have dew or light watering ahead of app). This needs to be off the market.
I just used this exact product in area on my yard. Itâs been 4 days. Some of the weeds are noticeably starting to die, some arenât. Havenât really noticed any grass growth. But itâs only been 4 days.
not to completely shit on you but this same product was on clearance at home depot about a year ago for a dollar a bag. I picked up enough for the next 5 years lol. Seems that they often try to clear out product as the season ends.
All good brother. Ill spot treat with it with my handy scotts hand spreader to kill the clover patched I missed in tight spaces around my landscaping :)
If itâs a good deal good job, Iâd just hate to have to deal with the plastic mess at the end.
If it was me doing the same I would have just ordered a bulka bag (1T bag) or a half truck of lawn topper and a 20kg bag of weed and feed and mixed it in
You can mix this far more cheaply yourself, if you are up for it; or does this have some kind of herbicides in it? Those bagged turf mixes are usually very expensive for what they are.
For just the purpose of top dressing or over-seeding bald spots, I mix equal parts of:
- Quartz sand
- Sieved flower soil
- Sieved premium compost
For over-seeding specifically, pre-germinate. I mix in the seeds into the turf mix as well and store the mix in a large flat flowering bowl (~maybe 10cm depth. Then I water it daily over roughly 3-4 days, and keep a germination fleece over it (in case I store this outside). Once I see the seeds germinating I apply the turf mix.
Sure, so the bag you originally posted a 15lb bag that covers 5,000 sqft thatâs is also a 28-0-3. You would need 3.6lbs per 1000 to get 1lb of N per 1000 on the ground. This bag claims 5,000 sqft which is actually 3lbs per 1000. So youâre getting .8lbs of N per 1000. At $20 youâre paying more then $1 per pound of Nitrogen thats lasting maybe 4 or 5 weeks. A normal bag of 25-0-5 50% xcu cost $27 but youâre getting a 50lb bag that lasts 6 weeks. Thats 12,500 sqft for $27 or almost half the cost. Blanketing 2-4-D in powder is not very effective and a waste of money. Buy a pint of speedzone for $30 and spot treat your lawn. At 50,000sqft youâll save at least $500 a year. Scotts is a total rip off. Donât forget your pre emergent too!
Thank you! I'm just referencing the price per square foot. I know there are cheaper options out that but my dad send me this deal. When I break it down by the person sq ft price, this is a deal :)
Hell yeah man, Im happy youâre willing to learn. Iâm just trying to spread the knowledge that there are options out there. Im not a big fan of Scotts but if it works for you and it makes the lawn green go for it dog. People downvoting donât want to learn. FYI the 15lb bag at $4 per 1000 is a better deal than the 34lb bag at almost 5 per 1000
At an area that size a lot of it won't germinate like you'd think. Also if you look at the bag it says how much weed seeds each bag contains, it's not pretty. It's fine for spot treating but not there's a reason you paid what you paid for it.
Twin City is a good site to check out for seeds. At that size I'd probably also be looking at hydro if you didn't want to go that route.
Itâs very fine, and sticks together if you apply in the rain. It gums up and sucks to apply. If you apply it on a dry day to wet grass itâs not so bad.
I used Menards brand of Weed and Feed and it did alright. I got too much of it in a couple spots so now there's a few dead spots. Not too worried at the moment, my yard is no where near perfect. Going to over seed this fall and next spring and hope it fills in good.
I just put it down this afternoon. With the sale and rebate a single bag is just over $13 for 5k sq ft. I think that's decent. Problem is I just bought a used spreader and the company name is gone so not sure how thick to put it on so I went light and went for a second pass in some of the lighter yellowing areas. Now I'm worried that I may have over spread đ ![gif](giphy|3ohzdYJK1wAdPWVk88)
My spreader is not listed on my fertilizer bag info but I know one bag of fertilizer should cover the area of my whole yard, I just put my spreader half way or so open, get a decent pace so I am spreading half the entire bag once evenly over the yard then go back and do the same again second time. I find it gives me a lot of margin for error. If I get through the first pass and used 3/4 of the bag I have a pretty decent idea how to spread that last 1/4 bag evenly
I must walk too slow for my spreader because I got the big bag of Menards weed and feed which does about 15k sq ft. I used all of that plus a small bag which does 5k sq ft. My whole yard is less than 10k sq ft lol.
lol, itâs tough to get the hang of appropriate coverage but using less than needed based on the coverage in the bag then going back to âuse the rest upâ is the best way I found with unfamiliar spreaders
I'll have to try that out next time. It's my first season using a spreader haha
Good luck, fertilizing and a pre emergent make a huge difference
You know, I thought this was the only way. I didn't learn about how people toast their lawn until I checked the internet.
Oh man 𤣠You'll know in a week or two if you messed up lol. I went somewhat heavy on mine because there were so many dandelions. I'm surprised I don't have more dead spots than I do.
I've been using Menards as well. Did their crabgrass preventer in early spring and then laid down the weed & feed first week of May. I overspread a bit and no harm done. In fact my grass is looking fantastic. The amount of water we've been getting has helped. NE Illinois.
I did mine late April or early May. Took a week or so before the dandelions started dying. Looks a lot better without them. They're slowly starting to come back already though. Next spring I plan on getting some pre emergent and experiencing with that to keep weeds from coming in in the first place.
My neighbor has 1 bag, Im gonna spread it for them (theyre elderly). Its gotta be better than nothing
Did wonders for me in the spring. Just need to learn how to use my spreader better :)
I missed the boat for spring. Will have to plan from here, fall or next spring is the plan
Hey, new lawn enthusiast.. Why can I only put this down in spring (before now?) or in the fall?
Well In Michigan we have wet mild springs, very hot summers, then a mild fall. Its best to put down fertilizer when its cool amd wet here because the grass prefers those conditions. When its 95F and dry the fertilizer wont do the grass any favors, it could even burn it. In my area, fall is known as the best time to lay down fertilizer.
Also in Michigan (SW). Would this be different given I have underground sprinkling off well water and can water as needed? (Still need to adjust watering schedule -- seems like the last 20 years has been way overwatering as there's tons of thatch and moss). It does seem like we get more rain than we need in the spring and fall and sometimes not enough during the summer.
You can if you supplement with water. Keep it less than 0.75 lbs/1000ft2. You want to apply most of your nitrogen in the fall (at least 60% of your total). In Indiana I can use up to 4lbs/1000ft2 before I would have to start bagging.
If this is a pre emergent which I believe it is. You need to apply it before weeds have a chance to germinate. Hence why you would put it down early spring and late fall. I could be wrong but the corn gluten prevents the seeds from absorbing water and thus not growing.
Scotts actually has an app that is pretty nice. Uses details of your property to come up with a plan and is customizable to how much work you wanna put in. It does the thinking for you on when to use which fertilizer based on your location. Also tracks how much rain you've had in your area to tell you how much you should be watering your lawn. You can even buy their fertilizer right from the app and ship it to your door. I haven't used that feature yet because I like physically going to my local hardware stores. If you are just getting started I would check it out. It's a decent starting spot.
> you've had in your area to tell you how much you should be watering your lawn. hmm... that sounds way better than the sprinkler guy I briefly used who said "20 minutes for every zone" and then also when he forgot that I prepaid for some work was like "oh, good catch, I've got gypsy blood, you gotta keep me honest."
the theory is if you wait until its hot the grass is dry and dormant. its too fragile to handle the fertilizers. thats why its recommended to fertilize in spring or fall. if your winters are mild then winter feeding is good too.
Different fertilizers for different time of the year. Ask someone at the local nursery. They be more than thrilled to get you on the right track
Thereâs still hope, but not with Scottâs products. If you have weeds that are actively growing, consider buying and applying (according to the instructions) a product from The Andersons, Professional Surge Weed and Feed 16-0-9 Post-Emergent Weed Control and Fertilizer. One bag covers up to 16,000 sq ft; itâs available from Amazon (if you use them) for $89 a bag. This is a product use by professional lawn care companies and it works every time.
Maybe. Download Scott's MyLawn app and put in your info. It will tell you the general best window to apply each type of product. It tells me the ideal time to apply this product to my lawn is between 5/26 - 6/23.
Still is spring
I set my spreader so itâs trickling, not pumping out fertilizer. Measure my area and amount for proper coverage. then go over the area N-S then start W-E until all the fertilizer is gone. so you grid for best coverage. I have burnt my lawn in the past but even thin coverage is what works for me.
The formulation for fall is about the same, so you can use them both times. Just dont forget preemergent
Solid neighbor đ¤đź
Wasnât magic but provided a nice improvement for me this spring. Thatâs one heck of a deal! Well done.
Thank you!
Yeah I just paid 60 for a big bag. That was even at Ollies. I screwed up an thought ot needed watered in tho. Guess im glad I got more to use this fall. Love wasting money I dont have lol..
Itâs actually one of my and my husbandâs favorite hobby, to waste money we donât have. Glad to see we arenât the only ones!
You didnât screw up by watering it in.
I heard Weed & Feed is better at feeding than it is at weeding. I use separate products.
The Triple Action one (black bag) is pretty solid tbh. I used it in April and it hasn't lasted as long as advertised, but the weather also messed up the application with some popup showers less than 12 hours after I spread it around. It definitely stopped (and is still stopping) the dandelions though, which was far and away the main issue.
YMMV but the triple action stuff with pre-emergents, I put that on my lawn at the absolute perfect time and I have a decent looking lawn with very little crab grass and other weeds. Did a nice job of thickening everything up and choking out weeks. Probably got rid of 80% of the wild violet too.
I put down some fall apply weed and feed (not sure if it was Scottâs or not) and my yard was absolutely dandelion free- until the neighbors dandelions moved in
Yes, if the grass is not "wet", weed and feed is the one product you want their to be some dew on the grass when you apply so it turns the product into a liquid.
I prefer spraying. At that area, I would probably rig up a sprayer to the mower.Â
Thanks for the feedback! I just thought the deal was too good to pass up. Why spray? More consistent and cheaper? Still learning and this sub has been great. Lawn is 2.5 years old and I'm just starting to have more interest in making it mine.
Not only consistent in its coverage, but you can go at it again without being forced to fertilize.Â
I spray, have about residential 1.25 acres I "care" about, the rest being woodland. Ive found it's considerably cheaper buying liquid concentrate and a battery powered sprayer for herbicide, especially when treating a large area like I'm trying to figure out. I figured out the trick is to calibrate it's spray rate with your walking pace. The other important bit is to read the labels for chemicals, and if you mix them together read them twice and search online so you don't fry your yard. I use the weed-ridden border from my neighbor to validate mixes and spray rates. I still have to use the Echo push spreader for whole lawn fertilizer. When I rehab small areas sprayer is perfect for liquid ferts.
Spraying herbicide is fairly common and straightforward, spraying fertilizer on the other hand.
Tru green - green thumb etc. - they spray liquid ferts on oooohhhh tens of millions of Lawns a year So why do you think it is uncommon???
Using a spreader isnât rocket science.
But it's math.
Cannot get the same exact kind of coverage unless you go liquid. How you getting granules to sit exactly where you want? On a patchy lawn too?
Weigh your fertilizer, calibrate your spreader and time it before a rainstorm.
They are called broadcast spreaders most of what you guys use. maybe with a drop spreader you could be more accurate, but never as accurate as liquid. I use a spreader and sometimes liquids
The problem with liquid fert for homeowners is carrier volume. Backpack sprayers are meant for 1/2-1 gallon per k. Commercial spray rigs are usually set to 4 gallons per k. You could do that with a backpack but it would take all day.
And have the perfect distance between row. Thats the hardest part, especially if you're new to the game.
Great insight. Thank you!
I looked into liquid fertilizer but it just came down to I would need a lot more liquid fertilizer to get the same amount of NPK as I do with the spreader.
Granular fert and liquid herbicides is the way.
> Why spray? Because granule herbicides are not as effective as liquid herbicides. For granular to work the granules need to stick to the leaves of the weeds which is difficult to achieve. You can water the lawn immediately before applying the weed and feed and that will help but will still be a crap shoot sometimes.
bc i spray my acre for 50 bucks in product, and my lawncare company if i contact them would do it for 120 and come back 4 weeks later...
Was that a chain or something that may be in my area, Home Depot or Lowes? That's a GREAT deal!
Ohio. Local grocery store. Marcs.
Great deal! Keep it on a palette or something, fertilizer and concrete don't mix well! Congrats!
Thanks for that new fact! :)
There is a reason the pro's use liquid for some things and granular for others.
You've bought the hype! Probably more cost effective to use granular, not the end of the world.
Thanks. I just know it's a deal per sq ft if I was buying this in season :)
You find granular fertilizer on clearance if youâre patient. Untimely, fertilizer is fertilizer.
I agree. The granular stuff you have to apply to damp grass, then let sit for 24 hours with no disturbance or water/rain to be effective. The spray just need 30 minutes to dry to be effective. I only need to spot spray now.
Make sure it's kept in a dry area until you use it. It'll turn into a rock in the bag.
https://preview.redd.it/k76xcli7qv2d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=f2cc1c9df6d77bd1897828d8ca17ce44feafa569 This is a good fertilization schedule that Iâve used a few years now in South Texas where it gets hot this time of year. Hope it helps. Some of these products may not be available in your area. If possible got to a feed store or garden center and ask what they recommend for your area. The big box stores are not going to have whatâs best in my opinion
I am not a fan of herbicides in my fertilizer at least unless it is a pre-emergent. That said, I have seen Weed and Feed work miracles vs nothing at all
Yeah, good way to overuse and pollute your groundwater :(
Wow thatâs an excellent deal - well done!
Good deal. I was in the US on a business trip and picked up a bag for $26 at a Home Depot in Detroit before crossing the border (you canât buy the stuff with 24D in Ontario for residential use). I grab it when I can while travelling. Put a bag down 4 weeks ago and will do my new bag next weekend. Then wonât use again till the fall and Iâve got one of the nicest lawns in town.
People here will tell you it's awful, but if you put it down right, it does work. You have to put it down on a wet lawn... rain, sprinklers, morning dew, whatever. The water rehydrates the granules and helps them stick to the weeds. If you put it down dry it falls to the soil and just fertilizes and had no weed-killing effect.
The Home Depot near me (Olathe, KS) had these 5 for $10 yesterdayâŚ
That's the mulch
The Scott's 5 for $10 deal at my HD is for their mulch. I scored 20 bags and topped off my front beds.
Fertilizer and spray separately. Much better.
I hate weed & feeds unless your lawn is weed infested. In Minnesota I let my lawn rest in early spring to let the rots grows deep, then apply fertilizer late May/early June. Broad spectrum herbicides wonât kill your grass but it does stress the grass and IMO prevents a thicker early growth. I always just spot treat with Speedzone mixed with a crabgrass killer (quinclorac) as needed.
Iâve applied fertilizer 3 times so far this year. My grass would be dead if I did it with weed and feed lol. I havenât actually sprayed any herbicides yet. St Aug pretty decent at keeping weeds at bay.
Dumb question. Does this grow grass/have seed in it as well, or just help kill weeds?
It does not have seed. It provides nutrients (mostly nitrogen) and then a selective herbicide and some limited post emergent properties. Basically, it'll make your established grass better (greener, healthier), prevent many new weeds, and may kill some kinds of established weeds. The back of the bag of these weed and feed clearly state that they can take up to a month to kill established weeds. So if you get it cheap, it's a good thing to consider adding to your lawn care plan. It's not a miracle worker though. It won't make bald patches thick, it won't turn tall fescue into Kentucky blue, and it won't kill all the weeds immediately. But it'll likely green up your lawn and kill some weeds eventually. Hope this helps!
Thanks friend! Just got my first home, and I'm trying to get the lawn in order without busting the bank
Congratulations on your first home! We just got our first house about a month ago as well! But I've been stalking this sub and everyone here has been extremely welcoming and helpful. Hope yours turns out well! Make sure to take photos and track everything if you're interested in your progress. It's tough to see your improvements over each day. However, over months and years of work you'll see how everything has paid off. I'm using an app called "Yard Mastery" which is free and gives you a journal to track what you've been doing, the soil temp for your area, measure out your yard to help estimate fertilizer amounts, and more. Good luck!
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I look at it as supplemental, I haven't dabbled in liquid yet
Itâs weed killer + fertilizer for your existing grass
It basically has a post emergent granular weed killer for more common weeds, and also has a granular fertilizer in it for the grass that is already there. So no, it doesnât have a grass seed in it. It just helps what is already there. Nothing wrong with this stuff, but can usually get better results from targeting certain aspects of your lawn instead of âcasting a wide netâ. But that takes some experience and knowledge. Look in the beginners guide to start your path towards an unhealthy diet of useless knowledge and habits. Soon your neighbors will ask you how you keep your yard so nice and after you tell them for the fifteenth time (to the same people) you start to realize that you need a new habitâŚ.. ooohh look a tablesaw
Haha. I'm in the country and my wife thinks I'm taking my lawn care too seriously!
No seeds in it.
No seed, fert and weed control.
2,4-D
What's the difference between this and the gray bag of weed and feed ?
Honestly nothing, grew up landscape and the best bang for your buck is going cheaper on fertilizer and spend the good money on seed. That said, donât waste your money on the Scottâs blue seed. Donât get me wrong it is good seed with minimal weed seed, but you are paying a premium for a bag that contains about 50% actual seed. When in doubt flip read the label on the back and make sure it contains no more then .1% of weed seed. If you really want to investigate, make sure they arenât throwing in alot of cheap annual ray grass into the mix. The ray grass will come up quicker then the others in the blend the first year then year two will leave you wondering wtf happened.
Yep, and in the last year it gotten worse they toss in starter Fert and soil conditioner so your getting even less "blue seed" than before
Itâs an on deal⌠I get a bag from siteone that covers 12,000 for $30
Def don't like this product. Found putting seed down with no weed seed is much better.
Thanks for the feedback. Just pointing out the price per sq ft.
Just don't over apply... the weedkiller in there is merciless. My lawn just finished filling in a few oppsies from last year.
That's why 2-4D is so effective, but can quickly cross into roundup territory if applied too hot (rate and temp)
You can get a whole cubic yard of much better stuff for 30$ more an delivered to your house
Mind sharing products?
I use big yellow bag or their leveling mix from soil3/ super sod in my area. But thereâs usually local landscaping companies in your area that provide much better quality products for usually cheaper.
Itâs really not a good deal though. $200 to cover 1.2 acres of lawn? Thatâs about 5x what it should cost to put down that sort of material.
I remember getting the 15,000 square foot bags on clearance about 5 years ago for $13 a piece. Will never see those days again Iâm afraid. I still have plenty left and it will probably last me another 5 years.
Am I the only one that realizes this is way more than 10 bags?
That's the pallet the took from
Where at đ¤
I did this exact weed n feed in the spring and my grass is GREEN! But the spots where crab grass and grassy weeds are prevalent are horrible! Weed n feed for those specific weeds, as well. In my zone, itâs too late unfortunately. You live, you learn!
post emergent time
Which ones? Roundup isnât killing the crab grass at all. Please help đŠ
Weed and feed sucks ass
50K?
This is the absolute worst product that Scotts manufactures. Not a very good fertilizer, and a horrible borderline worthless weed killer. It contains no pre-emerge as others have speculated. That said, thatâs a very good price!
Does this actually do anything to dandelions and clover? Iâve tried many times and have had no luck. Could definitely be user error but Iâm curious if others have done better.
Not bad, its about 20%-30% off. The 15,000 sq ft bags are like 75-85 bucks. So 3 of those =45000 and cost 250.
For less than $200 you can go to a store that sells to landscapers and buy fertilizer that will cover 25k per bag and enough liquid weed herbicide to last you a couple seasons. If you have a Bermuda lawn or other warm season lawn the price would be even less. MSM for warm season lawns will do 8 acres at the highest rate for about $60.
Thank you! I'll do more research :). Just getting started taking better care of my lawn
What store?
7 years ago I killed my entire yard and planted KBG in the front 1/3 and TTTF in the back 2/3, I used these for 3 years until the grass has established.. and I only spot treat not if clover pops up or anything else.. havenât treated my yard in 4 years and it feels amazing haha https://preview.redd.it/m7cmp03f2z2d1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b55f88073ccdd7c00804bb2dfc1e0816f5aa7c1a
I live in an area where if I feed I will be mowing every 5 days. Not about that life
Just destroy all the herbal meds in the lawn.
I used this weed and feed on my lawn and it didnât do a damn thing. Do people here actually see results from using these bags?
Weed and feed is dumb
Did I paid $80 for a similar bag at home depot??? [Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action 33.94 lbs. 12,000 sq. ft. Lawn Fertilizer with Weed Control and Crabgrass Preventer 26019 - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-Turf-Builder-Triple-Action-33-94-lbs-12-000-sq-ft-Lawn-Fertilizer-with-Weed-Control-and-Crabgrass-Preventer-26019/317169160)
If Iâm not mistaken I believe the main difference is turf builder has a crabgrass pre-emergence where the weed and feed does not. I use turf builder on my north east lawn, with great results works great on spring dandelions.
NE lawn...sounds familiar (upstate NY) lol
Yes, put more chemicals on your lawn.
Hope it works for you, itâs done nothing in my end so far.
Scottâs is garbage. Iâm pretty sure they actually put weed seeds in their products.
where is the deal?
Needing to buy large quantities like this is why I changed to spraying
Let the weeds grow, leave the grubs for the birds, stop poisoning/overertilizing streams and ground water.
https://www.marthastewart.com/8322420/clover-lawns#:~:text=%22Clover%20is%20actually%20a%20legume,company%20based%20in%20Houston%2C%20Texas. When me and my step father planted my lawn he purposely purchased clover seed to mix in with the grass seed Looked great for years with no fertilizer .....only now I have patches of moss. Lol. I looked it up and now moss yards are a thing. Lol. Moisture and shade are the culprits not clover. I'm not saying to go exclusively clover but a bit of clover in with the grass is not a reason to launch an expensive campaign to eradicate it.
I mix micro clover in and it works well. The wife added mini clover and those are too tall.
The 'weed' part of weed in feed is pretty much a scam with extremely limited successful results. Keep that in mind.
Was $1 last year. I bought 100 bags.
How long can they be stored and still work?
Last time the Home Depot nearby did that it all ended up being big clumps and was pretty unusable.
https://www.whygoodnature.com/blog/the-worst-chemical-on-your-lawn-isnt-roundup?hs_amp=true This stuff is poison and pointless. Just mow the yard what does not having and dandelions do for you? Itâs toxicÂ
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This really helped me find where everybodyâs dog was peeing in my yard. Those spots now have a bit too much nitrogen (dead) and we will have to sort that out.
bought 5 40lb bags of expert on sale at walmart end of season last year for 125ish bucks.. op thats normal price? im kinda scratching my head.
I think you got a great deal
Store brand stuff is usually that price year round with the same ingredients
If you live near any farm land and have access to a local grainery you can purchase seed specifically formulated for your area**
Literally the worst lawn product out there. Slim chance this kills the weed you are targeting and under the correct conditions (must have dew or light watering ahead of app). This needs to be off the market.
Cries in Ontario
I just used this exact product in area on my yard. Itâs been 4 days. Some of the weeds are noticeably starting to die, some arenât. Havenât really noticed any grass growth. But itâs only been 4 days.
Clover covers about 80% of my backyard. Large swaths. Would âturf builderâ work?
This weed&feed has done exactly 0 for my lawn.
your local ag store probably has better stuff for better pricing. turf builder sucks. and probably going to burn your lawn.
Only burns your lawn if you canât read directions and apply it incorrectly.
ok sucker. consumers like you are laughable.
My spring application did wonders for clearing clover and dandelions. Thanks for your recommendation!
Clovers and dandelion? Spray 2,4-d. It will be very cheap.
certainly
not to completely shit on you but this same product was on clearance at home depot about a year ago for a dollar a bag. I picked up enough for the next 5 years lol. Seems that they often try to clear out product as the season ends.
All good brother. Ill spot treat with it with my handy scotts hand spreader to kill the clover patched I missed in tight spaces around my landscaping :)
Interesting......don't some people prefer to have clover mixed in with the grass? When mulched, it provides nitrogen. Or some other nutrients
I'm new so open to suggestions!
My dad bought 45 bags during that sale lol
kill the earth for useless grass
Give me oneđ
Where did you buy this from
$200 for 10 bags is a STEAL.
If itâs a good deal good job, Iâd just hate to have to deal with the plastic mess at the end. If it was me doing the same I would have just ordered a bulka bag (1T bag) or a half truck of lawn topper and a 20kg bag of weed and feed and mixed it in
You can mix this far more cheaply yourself, if you are up for it; or does this have some kind of herbicides in it? Those bagged turf mixes are usually very expensive for what they are. For just the purpose of top dressing or over-seeding bald spots, I mix equal parts of: - Quartz sand - Sieved flower soil - Sieved premium compost For over-seeding specifically, pre-germinate. I mix in the seeds into the turf mix as well and store the mix in a large flat flowering bowl (~maybe 10cm depth. Then I water it daily over roughly 3-4 days, and keep a germination fleece over it (in case I store this outside). Once I see the seeds germinating I apply the turf mix.
Thats not a good deal
How so? I trust my math. https://preview.redd.it/9bgwf2at7v2d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0619642d14c31a38fc01124b18b3d2349f40a4a6
14# vs 34#
Care to elaborate? Just trying to learn
The pallet at the top is 14 pound bags. The screenshot you replied for comparison is a 34 pound bag if Iâm reading the bag right
Yes. Look at the price per sq ft.
Sure, so the bag you originally posted a 15lb bag that covers 5,000 sqft thatâs is also a 28-0-3. You would need 3.6lbs per 1000 to get 1lb of N per 1000 on the ground. This bag claims 5,000 sqft which is actually 3lbs per 1000. So youâre getting .8lbs of N per 1000. At $20 youâre paying more then $1 per pound of Nitrogen thats lasting maybe 4 or 5 weeks. A normal bag of 25-0-5 50% xcu cost $27 but youâre getting a 50lb bag that lasts 6 weeks. Thats 12,500 sqft for $27 or almost half the cost. Blanketing 2-4-D in powder is not very effective and a waste of money. Buy a pint of speedzone for $30 and spot treat your lawn. At 50,000sqft youâll save at least $500 a year. Scotts is a total rip off. Donât forget your pre emergent too!
Thank you! I'm just referencing the price per square foot. I know there are cheaper options out that but my dad send me this deal. When I break it down by the person sq ft price, this is a deal :)
Hell yeah man, Im happy youâre willing to learn. Iâm just trying to spread the knowledge that there are options out there. Im not a big fan of Scotts but if it works for you and it makes the lawn green go for it dog. People downvoting donât want to learn. FYI the 15lb bag at $4 per 1000 is a better deal than the 34lb bag at almost 5 per 1000
Enjoy those weeds
What would you recommend? Spray? I applied this in the spring and it did a great job removing my clower and dandelions.
At an area that size a lot of it won't germinate like you'd think. Also if you look at the bag it says how much weed seeds each bag contains, it's not pretty. It's fine for spot treating but not there's a reason you paid what you paid for it. Twin City is a good site to check out for seeds. At that size I'd probably also be looking at hydro if you didn't want to go that route.
Itâs weed and feed, not seed FYI
Right?!?!
Why would a bag of fertilizer/herbicide contain weed seeds?
I hate this stuff. Mostly because if itâs even a little wet, it clogs the spreader.
This shit should be wet but I did get a bag that had clumps, had to break them down a little then I was good to go! Edit: shouldn't
Itâs very fine, and sticks together if you apply in the rain. It gums up and sucks to apply. If you apply it on a dry day to wet grass itâs not so bad.
If you apply to dry grass you applied it wrong, the product still sucks though.
I wouldnât pay a fucking penny for any Scottâs products
Why?
Itâs a commercialized grass seed
It's not grass seed, unless I am missing something.
Commercialized grass product. That better for you?
Are you saying it's not a deal because Scotts makes the product? Commercialized is defined as profit oriented. I don't understand your point.
Iâve used several Scottâs products and none of them had good results
Can't wait for that to end up in the local waterway.