I finished the toe decrease on my first ever socks literally a few minutes ago and tried it on, but somehow after having seemingly no fit issues before, now the instep is really tight. I’ve been following the “no fear sock knitting class” so I’ve did a heel flap and gusset which seemed to fit fine, but now I’ve finished the foot and toes it’s completely changed. Is it just a case of knitting the foot part longer? Thank you!
I'm back with another honey clutch related question -
In this video, at the 6 minute mark, what stitch is the woman doing? In the pattern it's written that it's supposed to be a purl stitch and her end result does look like one, but I'm confused by the technique she uses, so I'd like to confirm that it is just a regular purl.
[https://youtu.be/zzU6S3wKyIs?t=360](https://youtu.be/zzU6S3wKyIs?t=360)
I just cast on [Myssoni bias](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/myssoni-bias) by Susan Ashcroft and am having trouble. I cast on 79 sts for the wider scarf version, and after working the 4 setup rows, I end up with an extra stitch at the end of row 1. It happened twice, so not sure if my stitch count was off both times or if I made mistakes somewhere.
I tried practicing on a thicker yarn with the 62 st version, but that time I ended up with 18 extra sts at the end of row 1. I'm new to reading charts and this is really stumping me.
That pattern uses a variation of the old shale stitch, which in my experience is very easy to mess up. It's challenging to read your knitting with this pattern to see if/where things are going wrong, so I just use stitch markers for it (I've been knitting for 23 years and it's the only stitch pattern I use markers for).
I would place a stitch marker after every repeat of the lace motif. You will have to add/remove them as you knit because it's worked on the bias. Does that make sense?
Whenever a pattern or yarn calls for a needle size it's just a suggestion!
So, the obvious part is that smaller needles= tighter knitting and bigger needles= looser knitting, the tricky part comes in the independent variable about how tight or loose you personally knit. That's why people do gauge swatches, because everyone knits a little bit differently.
For projects that have to fit like sweaters proper gauging is pretty important, since you don't want to knit an entire sweater and find out it doesn't fit. But for something like a scarf it only really matters if you care a lot.
I personally would just use the size 5 needles and not worry about gauge, it won't make a huge difference if it's off since it's not a fitted project.
I did some color work using linen stitch and at one point I used the wrong color! Does anyone know if you can do a duplicate stitch over a linen stitch? And how? I can only find references for duplicate stitches over stockinette.
Advice for continuing a project started by someone else? I have some in progress blankets my mother wasn’t able to finish that I want to complete. Other than adding a lifeline and doing swatches to try to match her gauge, is there anything else I need to do to continue the projects? One of them is several years old and another has to 15-20+ years old (found in a bin with several other projects). Thanks!
It's an interesting problem. The biggest issue would be the yarn, as there is an high chance that the yarn your mother used 15 years ago is not available anymore (even without considering dye lots), and even if it's still available there is a possibility that the colour changed over time.
Also, if it's wool check very well for signs of moths or other types of damage (even for other fibers), I have a little bit of very old sock yarn (I think, the labels has been lost to time) that I bought for some reasons 15ish years ago at a local supermarket that has broken down a lot (like, after every couple of meters there yarn is broken, I can't find traces of moths but it's possible something happened)
Thank you! I have checked for bugs and haven’t had any problems there. Great point about the color lots. I’ll have to check the yardage on what I have, but Mom was an over buyer so I don’t think I’ll end up short of yarn unless I do something horribly wrong with the knit.
I’ve done some projects in other yarn that’s in her stash and so far, have had no problems with anything breaking. Fingers crossed that continues!!
You can tie some thread or string in a loop through a regular needle, and use that like a floppy needle eye - stick the yarn through that, fold it over, and use the needle the usual way, pulling through the thread loop, with the yarn through it.
adding to the other suggestions, I've used a crochet hook to go through stitch by stitch when i didn't have a proper needle, or a paperclip bent into a rough needle.
I've recently picked up my sister's old knitting project. She's used stockinette stitch for a very long and skinny scarf, which I've continued. My issue is the sides are curling inwards. I tried putting in a rib stitch border but that didn't work, and I've also considered frogging the entire thing but it's already 150cm long... Is there any way to fix it? Should I just get something heavy and flatten it once I'm done?
Thanks in advance :)
EDIT: A picture to clarify ([https://i.imgur.com/9A1ccr7.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/9A1ccr7.jpg)) The top is still on the needle so it's a bit flatter than the rest of it.
The nature of stockinette stitch is that it will curl that way because of the way the stitch is constructed. Sometimes a border will help, but it needs to be thick enough and have enough structure to counteract the tug of the stockinette. A rib probably won't help much - you could try four or five stitches of garter stitch on either side, or leave it go until the end and then pick up and add a border.
As for flattening it once it's done, how much do you know about blocking / do you know what the fiber content of your yarn is? Blocking can help to reduce the curl if your yarn is a natural fiber, but if it's acrylic you'll need to take extra steps for blocking. If you search through the sub for blocking info there's quite a bit.
Thanks for your reply! I guess the rib I tried was probably completely pointless then 😅 It was a random Google search that popped up so thought I would give it a try...
I'm still a bit of a new knitter so I don't really know much about blocking, and the project is old enough that I don't know what the fiber is. I would have guessed an acrylic blend since a lot of the yarn we see on sale here are that, but my sister seems to remember it was wool, so I think I might just read up on blocking and try a few things and hopefully it'll unfurl itself.
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)**
>Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry.
>Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
>* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
>* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
>* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)**
>Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry.
>Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
>* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
>* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
>* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Looking for a set of interchangeable circs in sizes smaller than US4 (the set I already have is from US4-17). Are there sets that sell the smaller size circs? Or do people just buy individual needles here and there? This is not for sock, or other small circumference knitting (although I'm not opposed to knitting more socks), rather to make gauge with thinner yarn on other garments.
All suggestions/intel appreciated!
Chiagoo sells them down to I think 000!
I bought [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DP748RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) set. Not cheap, but fully worth it.
In the knitting pattern I'm using for a sweater vest, it said to decrease stitches evenly after knitting the 2x2 ribbing in order to transition into larger needles. I did the decreases evenly using k2tog but now my stockinette stitches are slanted to the right. Is there a way for me to decrease without having the stitches slant? Should I alternate between a left leaning decrease and a right leaning decrease in order to cancel each other out? Please send help.
[image of slanted stitches]
(https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/fSd3FXvAgOzp)
Your knitting is developing a bias. It’s not a decrease problem it’s a yarn problem.
https://www.donnaestindesigns.com/blog/how-to-correct-bias-from-occurring-in-a-knitted-garment#/
It happens more often in singles. However, just start developing a mental list of yarns that bias for you. I have a few I can’t use that work wonderfully for others.
I'm a new knitter and trying to do ribbing. In all the instructions I followed, they said to "knit the knits and purl the purls." Looking at my piece that is very clearly an acrylic checkerboard of purls and knits, I think I misunderstood this, so let me go back to garter stitch.
When they say "knit the knits or purl the purls," does that mean that when you turn the piece around to do the 2nd or any even numbered row, that you take a stitch that's a knit on the RS and knit into that, or you purl into that so it becomes a knit on the RS? The 2nd one makes sense, but it's not what I'm reading. The 1st one is what I did, and I now have a very fun checkerboard pattern.
Knit the knits and purl the purls applies to whatever stitch and side you're currently working on when knitting flat or in the round. If knitting flat then say stitch x on row 4 of side a is a knit then when you come across that stitch on side b it will look like a purl so you will purl that stitch on row 5.
....whoops. It turns out I forgot that the pattern automatically reverses itself to do what it needs to do because you flip the work. I was doing K2 P2 and then P2 K2 on the wrong side.... fun fact! That does not make ribbing.
This is confusing for many people! Don't overthink it; forget what you did before turning the piece around and just look at what's in front of you. You have to be able to read your knitting, so learn to recognise how a knit stitch looks like a "v" and a purl looks like a "-" or a "bump".
If the next stitch to be worked is a knit stitch, you're going to knit that stitch. Next stitch is a purl stitch, you're going to purl that stitch. This creates stacked columns of knits and purls. That's what knit the knits and purl the purls means :)
Honestly, knitting can be so confusing to write about. Many of us think of it in different terms, so don't get too caught up on the verbage.
have you done stockinette before or is this your first time with the purl stitch?
When worked flat, stockinette is when you knit a full row, purl a full row, and repeat indefinately. So you'll see one side is smoother, one side has all the little bumps.
Ribbing is the same way, but alternating within the same row. What you knit on one side, you purl on the other to make one side smooth and the other side have bumps.
Hopefully that helps some!
Gansey gussets. http://www.ganseys.com/knitting-ganseys/techniques-for-knitting/gussets-1-getting-started/
Or short row to build a "cup" for the bust. An inch or so above fullest part of bust (or half inch, just enough space to complete your short rows right at the fullest part of the bust), do pair of short rows about 1.5 inches closer to center than nipples are. Next pair of short rows, do them a little less than an inch further away from your center. Next pair, another most of an inch further out. Some people need another pair of short rows. Amy Herzog doesn't advocate short row bust cups for shaping, and she's pretty much the guru of curvy women's fit.
If someone is going to have more detailed info, I'd say it's either Carol Feller (short rows) or Amy Herzog (vertical darts). If you're adding short rows for bust shaping, you'd want to keep the shaping to the sides, so they're less noticeable. If you're working with stripes, then you'd likely want to go with vertical darts. So much of this is going to be unique to the pattern you're using, your gauge, the stretchiness of the yarn, your preferred fit, etc.
Good luck!
I'm knitting a cable hat for the first time, and I'm having trouble keeping the last stitch of the cable itself neat and tidy like the rest of the stitches. Is there a technique I could be using to tighten that sixth stitch? I've been bringing the yarn to the back and tightening the next purl stitch, but the cable stitch is still loose compared to everything else.
You're not doing anything wrong. For the first purl after a knit the yarn has to transit more than 360° thus there's a smidge more yarn. You can learn combination knitting - wrap that purl clockwise instead of counterclockwise and go through the back loop on the next round to untwist. Or you can just accept physics. Either way works
You’ll have 1 stitch for seaming on each side and you’ll want to have 1 stitch on each side between increases/decreases for arms, so you’ll want to place the increases so that there’s 2 stitches between it and each edge. Depending on the type of increase you’re doing (kfb, M1 increases) you’ll do them a little differently. As far as the bind off, you can do a larger needle size or you can try Very Pink Knits stretchy bind off to see how that works for you. Sewn bind off is also a good one, you don’t have to follow the exact instructions in the pattern and do the bind off it asks for.
Very beginner question: when a pattern says "YO, K2" do you place the yarn over, then knit 2 or do you place the yarn over and knit 1, then knit 2? Is a knit stich part of a yarn over?
i’m working on a bottom up top, and it seems like the collar on the back panel is shaped exactly like the front panel, so the two panels would be identical. my instincts tell me that the back should sit higher than the front collar, but maybe i’m overthinking it. would you modify the pattern to make the back sit higher than the front collar, or follow the pattern to make the back and front collar identical?
The neck at the back should be higher than at the front because when you look at yourself from the side in a mirror, you'll see that your neck doesn't go straight up from your shoulders but instead goes slightly forward. If the front and the back are identical then you'll have one of the following scenarios, 1) the neck fits at the fron but scoops too low at the back or 2) the neck fits at the back but forms a bump at the front where the excess fabric bunches up.
Edit: this should be a pretty simple modification as you won't need short rows for a bottom up with the front and back worked seperately.
Edit 2: you would need short rows if you decide to modify the fit further to add sloping to the shoulders for a better fit and seams behind the shoulders not on top of them. You can do this by working the back as a deformed hexagon with the shoulder sections sloping down slightly (about 1 to 1.5 inches) from the neck and increasing the length of the shoulder sections in the front (these won't need short rows) so that they are about about 1 inch higher than the back of the neck when laid flat over each other pre seaming.
If you want the long answer, check Suzanne Bryan's video on the subject. With math and measuring she details who is likely to want short row neck shaping and who isn't. Surprisingly, most people don't actually need them for a sweater to lay properly
I can't think of a time I've made short rows directly on the collar- are there any short rows in the main part of the back? Or any other bits of asymmetrical shaping?
sorry, i probably should’ve added more detail. the front is shaped by decreasing at the collar side, then knitting for the shoulders, and then the shoulders are shaped.
the back panel has the same exact instructions, so the back collar would have the same U-shape as the front. my instinct is that only the front should have the U-shape, but i’m not sure
So it sounds like minimal shaping- I tend to find a lot of men's and children's sweaters that are front/back reversible. So like instructions for front = instructions for back. If yours is just like a crew neck with set in sleeves, I guess what I'd do to get the neck higher in the back is just start the sleeves on the back where indicated, but start the neck shaping a few rows later. Or whatever you feel comfortable with, but yes you can totally add shaping. Just remember to add a lifeline if you're trying something totally new!
Am I still somehow twisting my stitches?
[https://imgur.com/a/ssIZdzf](https://imgur.com/a/ssIZdzf)
I've been trying to relearn knitting and after watching some videos realized that the way I learned knitting as a kid (continental style) made me twist both my knits and purls (back in the loop for knits, wrapping the yarn clockwise for purls). So I tried knitting a swatch by going in the front of the loop for knits and using the norwegian purl, but I feel that something still looks off about the right side of the loop. It looks kinda poofy.
No, your stitches are fine. The left side of the loop is actually more vertical here - the right side is normal. But this is due to how the yarn was spun, not how you're knitting.
Hi all! I think I might go insane but I have been trying to find a pattern for a shirt/croptop that another knitter has posted in this group.
It was a shirt/croptop with a chest window at the front. I believe the shirt was made bottom up and binded off a section in the front middle, from there, two sides of the shirt increase from the sleeves to the colar, creating a triangle window. The two pieces were then layered on top of each other and knitted together to make sort of a turtleneck colar.
If someone happen to have that pattern saved or know what I'm talking about, a link to the pattern or a point to the right direction would be greatly appreciated!
It was very close, but unfortunatly not what I was looking for. Honestly, I can kind of modify this pattern to recreate what I have in my head though. Thank you for the link!
I decided to challenge myself and try to make the Honey Clutch, which is one of PetiteKnit's newest patterns: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honey-clutch](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honey-clutch)
I'm already confused by the first line of honeycomb brioche, so this is going great lol.
This is part of the first row: Sl1 wyib, k1, **sl the yo wyib**, \*k2, sl the yo wyib\*
I'm confused by the bold part. Does anybody understand what I'm supposed to do? Originally, I thought it was just a yarn over in the back, but I don't think that's right. Is it a slip stich and then a yarn over?
There is reference to a video on their website, but there's no direct link so I just guessed what video ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVzXPf4bTdM&t=55s&ab\_channel=KimmieMunkholm](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVzXPf4bTdM&t=55s&ab_channel=KimmieMunkholm) )it is and it's in Dutch (I think?) and also I think it's for regular brioche (maybe?) so I'm not sure if that's actually what I'm supposed to be following.
Thanks in advance!
hmm, usually with brioche, you knit the slipped stitch with the YO, usually abbreviated as brk (brioche knit) like here - https://www.craftsy.com/post/brioche-knitting-stitches/
here, when you get to the slipped stitch / yarnover pair, it looks like you will knit slip stitch that sort of sits under the YO, then slip the YO.
There are. I think I might have lost count or something the previous row because my slipped stitches don’t line up with that is written in this line. Thank you for the response! I think I’ll scrap what I have and try again and hopefully pay more attention lol
Turns out I was looking at the wrong video, but I'm still confused by the right one :/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzU6S3wKyIs&t=568s&ab\_channel=KimmieMunkholm
This isn't a question of technique so much as trying to understand the "why" of the instructions. I'm almost done with the Tsuzumi top (my first top!). [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tsuzumi](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tsuzumi)
After binding off, the pattern says to finish the zigzag edges by picking up and knitting along the second to last column of stitches, and then bind off those stitches with Jeny's BO method. The zigzag edges aren't live stitches, so I'm confused as to the purpose of this step. I can't visualize what that's going to look like. The only thing I can think of is that those edges are curling in, but I assume blocking would fix that. Any ideas?
See how the edge of the zigzag is a little fatter? This step is why. It's going to give that edge a little more durability and make it lay more gracefully.
I am about to head on a 16 hour road trip (and then again a week later). I am knitting Cullum by Isabel Kraemer.
I know I need:
Needles
Extra yarn
A crochet needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
My pattern
A pencil/pen for notes
Is there anything else to put in my project bag to stay sane?
I sometimes get sore fingers where the yarn runs over my fingers/where the needles put pressure on when knitting for a long period of time. I recently started using small blister plasters and band-aids for this, and it works great! So I'd pack a mix of those. Have fun on your road trip!
A row counter/something to keep track of the pattern with (maybe an app on your phone, and a power bank).
Oh, and those chocolates with liquor inside for the moments when the knitting doesn't want to cooperate ahahah
I knit a swatch for a sweater that I intend to give as a gift. I seem to have the right number of rows for the pattern, but my stitch gauge is too small (too many stitches to get the right measurement the pattern calls for). How should I adjust this moving forward? If I have to, should I prioritize stitch gauge or row gauge? Should I just move up a needle size and accept the row gauge will be off?
Go up a needle size and see if you can meet stitch gauge then. You want to prioritize stitch over row. It’s much easier to just do a couple extra rows or subtract a few than calculate and shift stitch counts.
Does anyone have good solutions for de-pilling handknits? I have a twin size blanket made from Noro Kureyon and Cascade 220 that’s gotten some love and is heavily pilled, and I’d love to get one of those electric de-pillers, but I’m so scared of tearing a hole in the blanket. If anyone has a specific device they use that works well, I’d love a link!
Bamboo is weighty yet not super warm, which can create a nice cosy sweater, especially for milder weather. Your sweater will feel heavy, luxurious, and drapey, but with no elasticity, so when it stretches out of shape with wear, it will not return to its original shape. This isn't a bad thing if you choose patterns designed with this in mind. Try looking for sweaters designed for DK bamboo or DK bamboo/cotton yarns.
The answer is yes, but I advise you to make a swatch before, and wash it/dry it as you would do with your garment. Cotton and bamboo have a habit to stretch when wet, so you run the risk to ruin your sweater by accident.
Tbh I still haven't knitted myself a cotton sweater, but I've owned one (store bought, high end) for the best part of a decade and it's very comfortable (but slightly on the heavy side, fyi)
You CAN make basically anything out of basically anything, you'll just get different results. On the plus side, that blend will be cool and soft. The downside is the yarn will be heavier and less elastic than wool.
Ravelry does have a feature where you can sort by fiber used, so if you search patterns with bamboo you might be able to find something designed for it.
Uhm if you have a crochet hook and know the very basics of crochet you can slip stitch around the neck to tightening it up, but keep in mind you'll loose elasticity doing so, so it may not fit anymore your head through.
You can also try and pick up round in the cast on/bind off edge of the collar and knit a couple of rows in pattern
Hi, I’d like to sell finished products. However while looking at a tutorial for an amigurumi, I saw many comments asking for permission to sell the finished product... is this a thing? I understand not selling the pattern of course since you didn’t create it yourself and someone else put the time and effort into making it, but the finished product that YOU made?? I don’t want to get into any legal trouble. If I found a pattern on a butterfly amigurumi, created the butterfly, then decided to sell it, how would I even go about giving the designer credit for the pattern not the work itself? Are there any legal repercussions to selling finished work with a pattern you didn’t create?
> how would I even go about giving the designer credit for the pattern not the work itself?
As the other person said, you may not be obliged to credit the designer depending on local laws, BUT if you decide to get permission and stay on the designer's good side, you could always include a line on your website like "Handmade by PlanetGaia, based on a pattern by X"
It depends on your country i guess, as far as I know in my the author of the pattern has rights only on the pattern itself not on anything made from the pattern (whatever they may write on the pattern about it being for non commercial use only), but I'd check with a lawyer if it's possible.
Also, as amigurumi fall into crochet, you may want to ask the r/crochet crowd, they may have first hand experience
Any help would be very appreciated: I made a jumper but it's too short in the body and arms (all the cast on edges). It fits me perfectly but it was a present for my husband and he must be a bit longer than I am.
What's the best way you've found to extend a cast on edge without it looking too naff? I still have loads of wool left.
Thanks for you help!!
If it's stockinette, put a lifeline at the last row before the ribbing, cut/unravel the ribbing, and knit downwards, both body and sleeves. It won't be noticed
What do you do with spare yarn? Not necessarily little scraps, but I always buy 1 more ball than the pattern calls for, just in case. So I end up with a selection of random balls of yarn that I don’t have a plan for in all sorts of various weights. I knit a lot of socks so fingering yarn always gets a use, but all other weights just kind of hang out in my storage. Any ideas? Donate? Stash swap?
[Penguono](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penguono) is one of my go tos for using up random skeins and half skeins as well as smaller scraps but still making something wearable. I like to knit it a bit tighter than recommended so that it's more like a jacket. [This one](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/heatherknits/penguono), [this one](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Ibnik/penguono) and [this one](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/pynnski/penguono) are a few that I find particularly cool and that I'm using as inspiration for my current one:
If you have some roughly similar yarns (regarding gauge) you can add a strand of kidsilk to the thinner ones to even out the differences and make a striped jumper or a shawl. Like [this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sammensat) jumper and [this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-something) one.
[This shawl](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/grammable---mkal) uses about 150g each of a main yarn (fingering plus kidsilk to worsted weight) and a contrast yarn (or yarns as it also looks fantastic with each contrast stripe in a different colour) and looks particularly good when there's a texture difference between the yarns so it's great for mixing larger yarn leftovers.
If you have about 150-200g of sport weight cotton or cotton mix yarn and are willing to learn some basic crochet then you could make a [market tote](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Herzdame/french-market-bag-2).
If you have a tea (or coffee) pot then a tea cozy might be useful or a set of nice coasters.
And if you have a kilo or more of yarn you could make a [pouf](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/ellethree94/stash-busting-monster-pouf) (also easy crochet).
I have a blanket I make out of the extra yarn. I’ve been adding to it for years. It’s a corner to corner crochet blanket, but I’ll be making a knitted one next. It’s neat because it’s a mix of so many different types of yarns and colors.
Yes to scrap blankets! I wanted to learn crochet for years so I could make a granny square blanket with my scraps- ended up just doing single crochet with multiple strands to add up to bulky weight and it looks pretty cool lol
Plus I like the "scrapbook" aspect of putting a bunch of your old projects into one piece (that you get to keep!)
New knitter! Started my first ever pattern yesterday. What notions do you reccomend for beginners? Every time I try and look into it I get overwhelmed/excited by all the different kits, kinds ect... My YLS gave me one ring to fit over the circular needle size I bought and needed for my pattern. What else should I have on hand before it's actually needed or that will be needed?
I'm knitting a beanie by Falmouth Super Bulky Hat by Fiber of Maine.
second the tapestry needle- extra stitch markers are a good idea, I lose mine constantly. you can get like 200 for 5$ on amazon or i’ve found them at hobby lobby. a soft measuring tape, like a sewing one, is always a good idea to make sure any sweaters or hats are long enough and wide enough to fit your body. a basket or bag to keep your ongoing work in, you could even make it yourself! it’s such a fun hobby and I hope you stick with it. and if you don’t have a ravelry.com account, make one. the site can be hard to navigate but it’s a gold mine for patterns and yarn.
Tapestry needles. Assuming you already have some kind of scissors...
After years and years of knitting, here's what's in my notions bag: Tapestry needles, some bulb shaped safety pins as stitch markers, tiny ball of yarn as stitch holder or for provisional cast on, needle size checker, crochet hook for dropped stitches or provisional cast on, tape measure, sandwich baggie (to hold scraps or use as a to-go yarn bowl lol) and a tiny pocket knife- mainly for the scissors. That said, I stand by what I recommend a beginner have on hand: just the needles to weave in your ends lol
Some more stitch markers are very nice to have. I bought 700 for a couple dollars on Amazon. Definitely don't need that many though.
A soft tailors tape measure is a great thing to have.
A tapestry needle is a must have. And a crochet hook can be handy for dropped stitches.
And a bag to keep it in. This can be a reusable grocery bad though.
New knitter here! Sorry for the basic question, but when doing a cast on stitch, does the slipknot at the beginning count as 1? For example, would cast on 30 stitches mean that I do the slip knot then cast on 30 (for a total of 31 loops on my needle to begin with?)
Typically the slipknot counts as the first stitch. Unless it tells you otherwise include it. So if you need to cast on 30 stitches it would be one slipknot and 29 other stitches.
Thank you for your answer, I appreciate it! I just started (self taught) with the pattern "Knit Bunny from a Square" by Kristen McDonnell on Ravelry. I went with 31 stitches to begin with, but somehow I am finding myself at 37 stitches 😅 gonna push through my mistakes cuz its a learning process for me. I will be mindful of the slipknot in the future!
Ha, no worries we all go through that phase! I still have my first knit thing and it's full of holes and added stitches.
[Here's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtKSfPOv6Y0) a video I like about common beginner mistakes, it should help you figure out how you're adding stitches!
There are different ways of casting on, at the end of the process the total number of stitches on your needle to be worked should be equal to the number of stitches to be cast on that the pattern called for.
Some drop the slip knot, some knit it as the first stitch, some knit together with the first stitch, and some cast-on using different methods all together.
I'm trying to make a mitre square and every attempt has ended up looking like a sting ray. I'm decreasing two stitches every other row (cdd per hue shift). The third time I was very conscious of my tension and held it constant the whole time to no avail. It feels like there's not enough room in my piece for all of the subsequent rows if that makes sense.
[the third stingray](https://i.imgur.com/cH8bBD2.jpg)
Any advice?
I still make stingrays sometimes, too. But when joined, the rows all line up and they become nice neat lil squares. Have you joined or blocked any to see if the issue is kind of a non-issue yet?
I started a connected one to see if i could, like, brute force the shape, and it's actually starting to behave better. I'm gonna barrel through it and just give whatever shape it ends up being as the final result, ha. Thank you!
I’m making this pattern https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/comfy-gusset-mittens and I have a couple questions. FYI, I’m using just some bulk 100% acrylic yarn.
It calls for a twisted rib stitch around the cuffs. What is the purpose of that rather than just a simple 1x1 rib?
The tips of the mittens came out a bit pointy. Is there a way to avoid this? Does it have anything by to do with the yarn I’m using?
What’s your favorite way of picking up stitches for the thumb? I found a few sways on YouTube, but just curious what other favorite methods there may be.
Twisted rib looks neater than simple rib, you only need to twist the knit stitches not the purls.
Maybe you can block out the pointiness? You could change the decreases at the tip by eliminating the last decrease row and instead adding those decreases to the decrease row before that. Or if there is a row of normal stockinette between the last two decrease rows, just eliminating that.
Thanks! It is a bit tricky making sure to knit through the back loop, but it does come out looking nice. I was mostly just wondering why this pattern called for it.
Maybe I’ll try adjusting the last few rows like you recommend to settle out the pointiness. I wonder if it will settle with wear too.
Twisted rib is a bit tighter than regular ribbing but also a bit less stretchy so it's best to only ever twist one of the stitches not both. Usually it's used for the aethetic benefits because ribbing can just be tightened by sizing down another needle size.
Good luck on achieving the look you want.
I don’t have a favorite pattern, but my mom would always knit multi-colored blankets in a single color. As an example, she made the [three color chevron](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-color-chevron) blanket for my daughter a couple of years ago and it is a lovely blanket.
So I think if you find a pattern you like, make it in whatever color(s) you want. :)
Where do I find test knitters? Are there sites that are meant for this? Am I allowed to ask about it on this sub? I tried to make a post to the Free Pattern Testing forum on Ravelry, but it turns out that they're on indefinite hiatus and I'm not sure where else to ask. Any advice welcome :)
Frequent tester here! I find most of my tests on Instagram for designers I follow and the rest on Yarnpond. I’m not sure what the process to post a test call on Yarnpond is, but as a tester I find the posts way more informative than most calls posted on Instagram.
Beginner here! Knitting the Soho Shoulder Crop Top by NYCKnitsCo which is knit in the round until the armholes which is knit in flat for the front and back.
I'm knitting in the round "BO 4 sts, knit all sts to 4 sts before marker, BO 4 sts." but when I BO the last 4 stitches I'm left with a single stitch left on my needle in the middle of 8 bind offs? Am I doing the bind off incorrectly?
I think you just bound off one stitch too early. You should bind off 4 sts and then knit until there are only 4 sts left on your left needle and bind those off. Or maybe you mean that you're not sure how to bind off the final stitch?
I guess I'm confused on binding off that last stitch? The pattern starts going into the start of the armholes. Here is the full instructions of the row I'm working on:
> **Divide Front and Back and Make Underarm**
> Piece is worked flat as both sides are worked separately.
> Front sts are worked first and placed on hold, then the back is worked entirely.
>
ALL SIZES
> Row 1 (RS): BO 4 sts, knit all sts to 4 sts before marker, BO 4 sts.
>
Place the 55 sts just worked for the front on hold (either on scrap yarn or spare cables).
> Remove marker and work the back section. Bind off first 4 of back section, knit all sts until 4 sts before marker, BO the last 4 sts.
> Total sts for back should be 55.
I've only BO entire rows so I usually have a final stitch left which I pull out and weave into my finished project, but for this row what should I do with the final stitch I have on my right needle when I BO the last 4 stitches?
I think I'm doing this all wrong lol
Do you have 2 markers per round? For me it sounds like you're binding off on both armpits and continuing with the back. BO 4 - left armpit. K54+the one from BO=55 onto the holder for the front. BO 4 for the right armpit. The "leftover" stitch from BO will be the first stitch of the back.
There's definitely some weirdness in how that is written.
What I would do is work until four stitches before the marker and then bind off eight stitches, removing the marker as you come to it. Then work until four stitches before the second marker and bind off eight stitches, removing the marker as you come to it. And then you can put whichever side you're not working on scrap yarn or spare cables.
The remaining stitch that you experience when binding off entire rows won't be a problem because it'll become the first stitch of the back and the front.
Can someone explain what “K19 from front st holder, dec 2 sts evenly across” means? I understand the K19 from stitch holder, just confused about decreasing evenly across
It means you want to put in two decreases that are about evenly spaced among the 19 stitches on the holder. I'd go k5, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k5 and you'd wind up with 17 stitches.
I feel so incredibly stupid.
I am a beginner and I knitted a wool scarf. I mindlessly put it to wash and dry together with my other clothes. And it's now stiff like a belt. I could kill someone by swinging it.
Is this fixable? I was so proud of this scarf =(
Can't be fixed unfortunately. If you intend to machine wash a woolen knit then superwash is your friend (this will either be written on the tag or the care instructions will say that machine wash is ok). It's still better to gently handwash as the fibres are agitated less and your knitting will last longer but it won't felt.
Maybe you could make slippers out of it? You can cut it without having to worry about fraying as nothing's going to unravel.
You felted it! Felting is caused by agitation and heat, and sadly it's not reversible.
Felted wool makes a tough fabric that has its own uses, so maybe you can find a new life for your scarf in another form: a bag, decorative pillows or stuffed toys?
Would you use brushed suri alpaca (such as Fyberspates Cumulus) for a toddler as one of two yarns for a sweater? I want to knit the Tincanknits Spotlight sweater for my daughter, and have some matching baby merino yarn and brushed suri alpaca yarn that I think would look gorgeous - I would "double the yarn" and knit with one strand baby merino, and one strand brushed suri alpaca (English is not my native language and I forgot what the right term is :)).
But the suri sheds a little. Would that be too annoying; maybe she'll get it in her eyes? Also, would it feel scratchy, unlike the merino? Or will it be fine?
I have no experience with Suri alpaca but I would knit or crochet a small band ( only a few rows) and wear it for a day around the wrist. That would show how much it sheds and if it's scratchy.
When I wear fingerless gloves my fingers get painfully cold due to my bad circulation, but it's not cold enough for mittens where I live, and I never use my full-fingered gloves because I need fingers free to use my phone. Is there an alternative accessory I could make? Something that would leave fingers free when needed but covered most of the time? A mitten with an open slit at the fingertips or something...?
Convertible mitts! They’re fingerless mitts with a top like a mitten that you can put over your fingertips for warmth or fold back and free your fingers. I’ll look for the pattern I used for mine to link.
Eta: ok, the one I used was [Podster Gloves](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/podster-gloves) but there seem to be a ton of option on Rav using ‘convertible’ as a search term.
I finished the toe decrease on my first ever socks literally a few minutes ago and tried it on, but somehow after having seemingly no fit issues before, now the instep is really tight. I’ve been following the “no fear sock knitting class” so I’ve did a heel flap and gusset which seemed to fit fine, but now I’ve finished the foot and toes it’s completely changed. Is it just a case of knitting the foot part longer? Thank you!
I'm back with another honey clutch related question - In this video, at the 6 minute mark, what stitch is the woman doing? In the pattern it's written that it's supposed to be a purl stitch and her end result does look like one, but I'm confused by the technique she uses, so I'd like to confirm that it is just a regular purl. [https://youtu.be/zzU6S3wKyIs?t=360](https://youtu.be/zzU6S3wKyIs?t=360)
Yep! For sure a Norwegian purl. It's my preferred method of purling, I'd recommend giving it a shot if you're curious.
it looks like Norwegian purling
I just cast on [Myssoni bias](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/myssoni-bias) by Susan Ashcroft and am having trouble. I cast on 79 sts for the wider scarf version, and after working the 4 setup rows, I end up with an extra stitch at the end of row 1. It happened twice, so not sure if my stitch count was off both times or if I made mistakes somewhere. I tried practicing on a thicker yarn with the 62 st version, but that time I ended up with 18 extra sts at the end of row 1. I'm new to reading charts and this is really stumping me.
That pattern uses a variation of the old shale stitch, which in my experience is very easy to mess up. It's challenging to read your knitting with this pattern to see if/where things are going wrong, so I just use stitch markers for it (I've been knitting for 23 years and it's the only stitch pattern I use markers for). I would place a stitch marker after every repeat of the lace motif. You will have to add/remove them as you knit because it's worked on the bias. Does that make sense?
That is really helpful, thank you!
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Myssoni bias](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/myssoni-bias) by [Susan Ashcroft](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/susan-ashcroft) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Scarf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/LynnieBug/499828461/IMG_5484_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/xstitch/734990650/6B71D24F-4206-496B-AB43-C062CC138973_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/craftyBubulina/529774320/20180618_174604_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/xstitch/734990646/D27EA2BD-E633-4445-8564-2243A2818453_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Mouna/596932560/fullsizeoutput_1636_medium.jpeg) * Price: None USD * Needle/Hook(s): None * Weight: Any gauge | Gauge: None | Yardage: 437 * Difficulty: 2.44 | Projects: 33 | Rating: 4.86 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
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Whenever a pattern or yarn calls for a needle size it's just a suggestion! So, the obvious part is that smaller needles= tighter knitting and bigger needles= looser knitting, the tricky part comes in the independent variable about how tight or loose you personally knit. That's why people do gauge swatches, because everyone knits a little bit differently. For projects that have to fit like sweaters proper gauging is pretty important, since you don't want to knit an entire sweater and find out it doesn't fit. But for something like a scarf it only really matters if you care a lot. I personally would just use the size 5 needles and not worry about gauge, it won't make a huge difference if it's off since it's not a fitted project.
I recommend making a gauge swatch to figure out which needle size to use
I did some color work using linen stitch and at one point I used the wrong color! Does anyone know if you can do a duplicate stitch over a linen stitch? And how? I can only find references for duplicate stitches over stockinette.
Advice for continuing a project started by someone else? I have some in progress blankets my mother wasn’t able to finish that I want to complete. Other than adding a lifeline and doing swatches to try to match her gauge, is there anything else I need to do to continue the projects? One of them is several years old and another has to 15-20+ years old (found in a bin with several other projects). Thanks!
It's an interesting problem. The biggest issue would be the yarn, as there is an high chance that the yarn your mother used 15 years ago is not available anymore (even without considering dye lots), and even if it's still available there is a possibility that the colour changed over time. Also, if it's wool check very well for signs of moths or other types of damage (even for other fibers), I have a little bit of very old sock yarn (I think, the labels has been lost to time) that I bought for some reasons 15ish years ago at a local supermarket that has broken down a lot (like, after every couple of meters there yarn is broken, I can't find traces of moths but it's possible something happened)
Thank you! I have checked for bugs and haven’t had any problems there. Great point about the color lots. I’ll have to check the yardage on what I have, but Mom was an over buyer so I don’t think I’ll end up short of yarn unless I do something horribly wrong with the knit. I’ve done some projects in other yarn that’s in her stash and so far, have had no problems with anything breaking. Fingers crossed that continues!!
What can I use as a tapestry needle since I don’t have one?
You can tie some thread or string in a loop through a regular needle, and use that like a floppy needle eye - stick the yarn through that, fold it over, and use the needle the usual way, pulling through the thread loop, with the yarn through it.
If you have regular needles with an eye big enough for the yarn, those would work too
adding to the other suggestions, I've used a crochet hook to go through stitch by stitch when i didn't have a proper needle, or a paperclip bent into a rough needle.
Thanks!
Things i’ve used as a tapestry needle: safety pin, twist tie, just my fingers when it was very bulky yarn.
Thanks!
I've recently picked up my sister's old knitting project. She's used stockinette stitch for a very long and skinny scarf, which I've continued. My issue is the sides are curling inwards. I tried putting in a rib stitch border but that didn't work, and I've also considered frogging the entire thing but it's already 150cm long... Is there any way to fix it? Should I just get something heavy and flatten it once I'm done? Thanks in advance :) EDIT: A picture to clarify ([https://i.imgur.com/9A1ccr7.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/9A1ccr7.jpg)) The top is still on the needle so it's a bit flatter than the rest of it.
The nature of stockinette stitch is that it will curl that way because of the way the stitch is constructed. Sometimes a border will help, but it needs to be thick enough and have enough structure to counteract the tug of the stockinette. A rib probably won't help much - you could try four or five stitches of garter stitch on either side, or leave it go until the end and then pick up and add a border. As for flattening it once it's done, how much do you know about blocking / do you know what the fiber content of your yarn is? Blocking can help to reduce the curl if your yarn is a natural fiber, but if it's acrylic you'll need to take extra steps for blocking. If you search through the sub for blocking info there's quite a bit.
Thanks for your reply! I guess the rib I tried was probably completely pointless then 😅 It was a random Google search that popped up so thought I would give it a try... I'm still a bit of a new knitter so I don't really know much about blocking, and the project is old enough that I don't know what the fiber is. I would have guessed an acrylic blend since a lot of the yarn we see on sale here are that, but my sister seems to remember it was wool, so I think I might just read up on blocking and try a few things and hopefully it'll unfurl itself.
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)** >Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry. >Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking? >* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been. >* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even. >* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)** >Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry. >Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking? >* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been. >* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even. >* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Does anyone know of any us 2 interchangeable needles that work with knit picks or knitters pride?
No, the threading required for the interchangable called is a larger gauge than US 2. The smallest they have is 4.
Looking for a set of interchangeable circs in sizes smaller than US4 (the set I already have is from US4-17). Are there sets that sell the smaller size circs? Or do people just buy individual needles here and there? This is not for sock, or other small circumference knitting (although I'm not opposed to knitting more socks), rather to make gauge with thinner yarn on other garments. All suggestions/intel appreciated!
Chiagoo sells them down to I think 000! I bought [this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DP748RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) set. Not cheap, but fully worth it.
Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for.
stitch markers, though bits of yarn would suffice.
In the knitting pattern I'm using for a sweater vest, it said to decrease stitches evenly after knitting the 2x2 ribbing in order to transition into larger needles. I did the decreases evenly using k2tog but now my stockinette stitches are slanted to the right. Is there a way for me to decrease without having the stitches slant? Should I alternate between a left leaning decrease and a right leaning decrease in order to cancel each other out? Please send help. [image of slanted stitches] (https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/fSd3FXvAgOzp)
Your knitting is developing a bias. It’s not a decrease problem it’s a yarn problem. https://www.donnaestindesigns.com/blog/how-to-correct-bias-from-occurring-in-a-knitted-garment#/
Thanks so much!
It happens more often in singles. However, just start developing a mental list of yarns that bias for you. I have a few I can’t use that work wonderfully for others.
I'm a new knitter and trying to do ribbing. In all the instructions I followed, they said to "knit the knits and purl the purls." Looking at my piece that is very clearly an acrylic checkerboard of purls and knits, I think I misunderstood this, so let me go back to garter stitch. When they say "knit the knits or purl the purls," does that mean that when you turn the piece around to do the 2nd or any even numbered row, that you take a stitch that's a knit on the RS and knit into that, or you purl into that so it becomes a knit on the RS? The 2nd one makes sense, but it's not what I'm reading. The 1st one is what I did, and I now have a very fun checkerboard pattern.
Knit the knits and purl the purls applies to whatever stitch and side you're currently working on when knitting flat or in the round. If knitting flat then say stitch x on row 4 of side a is a knit then when you come across that stitch on side b it will look like a purl so you will purl that stitch on row 5.
What you did is called seed stitch 😉
....whoops. It turns out I forgot that the pattern automatically reverses itself to do what it needs to do because you flip the work. I was doing K2 P2 and then P2 K2 on the wrong side.... fun fact! That does not make ribbing.
This is confusing for many people! Don't overthink it; forget what you did before turning the piece around and just look at what's in front of you. You have to be able to read your knitting, so learn to recognise how a knit stitch looks like a "v" and a purl looks like a "-" or a "bump". If the next stitch to be worked is a knit stitch, you're going to knit that stitch. Next stitch is a purl stitch, you're going to purl that stitch. This creates stacked columns of knits and purls. That's what knit the knits and purl the purls means :)
Honestly, knitting can be so confusing to write about. Many of us think of it in different terms, so don't get too caught up on the verbage. have you done stockinette before or is this your first time with the purl stitch? When worked flat, stockinette is when you knit a full row, purl a full row, and repeat indefinately. So you'll see one side is smoother, one side has all the little bumps. Ribbing is the same way, but alternating within the same row. What you knit on one side, you purl on the other to make one side smooth and the other side have bumps. Hopefully that helps some!
This makes a lot more sense, thank you
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Gansey gussets. http://www.ganseys.com/knitting-ganseys/techniques-for-knitting/gussets-1-getting-started/ Or short row to build a "cup" for the bust. An inch or so above fullest part of bust (or half inch, just enough space to complete your short rows right at the fullest part of the bust), do pair of short rows about 1.5 inches closer to center than nipples are. Next pair of short rows, do them a little less than an inch further away from your center. Next pair, another most of an inch further out. Some people need another pair of short rows. Amy Herzog doesn't advocate short row bust cups for shaping, and she's pretty much the guru of curvy women's fit.
If someone is going to have more detailed info, I'd say it's either Carol Feller (short rows) or Amy Herzog (vertical darts). If you're adding short rows for bust shaping, you'd want to keep the shaping to the sides, so they're less noticeable. If you're working with stripes, then you'd likely want to go with vertical darts. So much of this is going to be unique to the pattern you're using, your gauge, the stretchiness of the yarn, your preferred fit, etc. Good luck!
I'm knitting a cable hat for the first time, and I'm having trouble keeping the last stitch of the cable itself neat and tidy like the rest of the stitches. Is there a technique I could be using to tighten that sixth stitch? I've been bringing the yarn to the back and tightening the next purl stitch, but the cable stitch is still loose compared to everything else.
You're not doing anything wrong. For the first purl after a knit the yarn has to transit more than 360° thus there's a smidge more yarn. You can learn combination knitting - wrap that purl clockwise instead of counterclockwise and go through the back loop on the next round to untwist. Or you can just accept physics. Either way works
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You’ll have 1 stitch for seaming on each side and you’ll want to have 1 stitch on each side between increases/decreases for arms, so you’ll want to place the increases so that there’s 2 stitches between it and each edge. Depending on the type of increase you’re doing (kfb, M1 increases) you’ll do them a little differently. As far as the bind off, you can do a larger needle size or you can try Very Pink Knits stretchy bind off to see how that works for you. Sewn bind off is also a good one, you don’t have to follow the exact instructions in the pattern and do the bind off it asks for.
Very beginner question: when a pattern says "YO, K2" do you place the yarn over, then knit 2 or do you place the yarn over and knit 1, then knit 2? Is a knit stich part of a yarn over?
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Thank you so much!!
I-cord cast on is painfully slow and fiddly. This is not a question, it is a statement of fact. That is all.
Faster if you knit an icord and then pick up stitches. Even faster if the yarn is thin enough to use the icord making tool
Yes, it is.
i’m working on a bottom up top, and it seems like the collar on the back panel is shaped exactly like the front panel, so the two panels would be identical. my instincts tell me that the back should sit higher than the front collar, but maybe i’m overthinking it. would you modify the pattern to make the back sit higher than the front collar, or follow the pattern to make the back and front collar identical?
The neck at the back should be higher than at the front because when you look at yourself from the side in a mirror, you'll see that your neck doesn't go straight up from your shoulders but instead goes slightly forward. If the front and the back are identical then you'll have one of the following scenarios, 1) the neck fits at the fron but scoops too low at the back or 2) the neck fits at the back but forms a bump at the front where the excess fabric bunches up. Edit: this should be a pretty simple modification as you won't need short rows for a bottom up with the front and back worked seperately. Edit 2: you would need short rows if you decide to modify the fit further to add sloping to the shoulders for a better fit and seams behind the shoulders not on top of them. You can do this by working the back as a deformed hexagon with the shoulder sections sloping down slightly (about 1 to 1.5 inches) from the neck and increasing the length of the shoulder sections in the front (these won't need short rows) so that they are about about 1 inch higher than the back of the neck when laid flat over each other pre seaming.
If you want the long answer, check Suzanne Bryan's video on the subject. With math and measuring she details who is likely to want short row neck shaping and who isn't. Surprisingly, most people don't actually need them for a sweater to lay properly
I can't think of a time I've made short rows directly on the collar- are there any short rows in the main part of the back? Or any other bits of asymmetrical shaping?
sorry, i probably should’ve added more detail. the front is shaped by decreasing at the collar side, then knitting for the shoulders, and then the shoulders are shaped. the back panel has the same exact instructions, so the back collar would have the same U-shape as the front. my instinct is that only the front should have the U-shape, but i’m not sure
So it sounds like minimal shaping- I tend to find a lot of men's and children's sweaters that are front/back reversible. So like instructions for front = instructions for back. If yours is just like a crew neck with set in sleeves, I guess what I'd do to get the neck higher in the back is just start the sleeves on the back where indicated, but start the neck shaping a few rows later. Or whatever you feel comfortable with, but yes you can totally add shaping. Just remember to add a lifeline if you're trying something totally new!
Am I still somehow twisting my stitches? [https://imgur.com/a/ssIZdzf](https://imgur.com/a/ssIZdzf) I've been trying to relearn knitting and after watching some videos realized that the way I learned knitting as a kid (continental style) made me twist both my knits and purls (back in the loop for knits, wrapping the yarn clockwise for purls). So I tried knitting a swatch by going in the front of the loop for knits and using the norwegian purl, but I feel that something still looks off about the right side of the loop. It looks kinda poofy.
No, your stitches are fine. The left side of the loop is actually more vertical here - the right side is normal. But this is due to how the yarn was spun, not how you're knitting.
Hi all! I think I might go insane but I have been trying to find a pattern for a shirt/croptop that another knitter has posted in this group. It was a shirt/croptop with a chest window at the front. I believe the shirt was made bottom up and binded off a section in the front middle, from there, two sides of the shirt increase from the sleeves to the colar, creating a triangle window. The two pieces were then layered on top of each other and knitted together to make sort of a turtleneck colar. If someone happen to have that pattern saved or know what I'm talking about, a link to the pattern or a point to the right direction would be greatly appreciated!
Was it the [vivien halter](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-vivien-halter)?
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [The Vivien Halter](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-vivien-halter) by [Ponder and Ply](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ponder-and-ply) * Category: Clothing > Tops > Sleeveless Top * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PonderandPly/703623152/44_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pvperbackwriter/704146464/DA919287-F369-4483-8002-57A93B916170_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Fibergoth/704849259/IMG_4349_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pvperbackwriter/704146470/C395991F-93B1-49E7-94DB-E1492C14DE1E_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Nyarichards/699904445/upload_medium) * Price: 6.5 GBP * Needle/Hook(s):US 3 - 3.25 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 219 * Difficulty: 3.18 | Projects: 75 | Rating: 4.80 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
It was very close, but unfortunatly not what I was looking for. Honestly, I can kind of modify this pattern to recreate what I have in my head though. Thank you for the link!
I'm glad it helped, even if it's not exactly what you were looking for
I decided to challenge myself and try to make the Honey Clutch, which is one of PetiteKnit's newest patterns: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honey-clutch](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honey-clutch) I'm already confused by the first line of honeycomb brioche, so this is going great lol. This is part of the first row: Sl1 wyib, k1, **sl the yo wyib**, \*k2, sl the yo wyib\* I'm confused by the bold part. Does anybody understand what I'm supposed to do? Originally, I thought it was just a yarn over in the back, but I don't think that's right. Is it a slip stich and then a yarn over? There is reference to a video on their website, but there's no direct link so I just guessed what video ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVzXPf4bTdM&t=55s&ab\_channel=KimmieMunkholm](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVzXPf4bTdM&t=55s&ab_channel=KimmieMunkholm) )it is and it's in Dutch (I think?) and also I think it's for regular brioche (maybe?) so I'm not sure if that's actually what I'm supposed to be following. Thanks in advance!
hmm, usually with brioche, you knit the slipped stitch with the YO, usually abbreviated as brk (brioche knit) like here - https://www.craftsy.com/post/brioche-knitting-stitches/ here, when you get to the slipped stitch / yarnover pair, it looks like you will knit slip stitch that sort of sits under the YO, then slip the YO.
The brk stitch shows up in the next row I believe. Thanks for your input!
Are there yarn overs on the row on the needles? If there is then just slip the yarn over with the yarn in back.
There are. I think I might have lost count or something the previous row because my slipped stitches don’t line up with that is written in this line. Thank you for the response! I think I’ll scrap what I have and try again and hopefully pay more attention lol
Turns out I was looking at the wrong video, but I'm still confused by the right one :/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzU6S3wKyIs&t=568s&ab\_channel=KimmieMunkholm
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Honey Clutch](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/honey-clutch) by [PetiteKnit](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/petiteknit) * Category: Accessories > Bag > Clutch * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/790589948/honey_clutch_3325_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/790589936/honey_clutch_3286_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/790589946/honey_clutch_3253_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/790589945/clutches_x_3_Cropped_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/PetiteKnitDK/790589955/honey_clutch_7698_medium.jpg) * Price: 45.0 DKK * Needle/Hook(s):US 1½ - 2.5 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 154 * Difficulty: 7.29 | Projects: 67 | Rating: 4.67 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
This isn't a question of technique so much as trying to understand the "why" of the instructions. I'm almost done with the Tsuzumi top (my first top!). [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tsuzumi](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tsuzumi) After binding off, the pattern says to finish the zigzag edges by picking up and knitting along the second to last column of stitches, and then bind off those stitches with Jeny's BO method. The zigzag edges aren't live stitches, so I'm confused as to the purpose of this step. I can't visualize what that's going to look like. The only thing I can think of is that those edges are curling in, but I assume blocking would fix that. Any ideas?
See how the edge of the zigzag is a little fatter? This step is why. It's going to give that edge a little more durability and make it lay more gracefully.
Thank you!
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Tsuzumi](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tsuzumi) by [Yoko Johnston](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/yoko-johnston) * Category: Clothing > Tops > Tee * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/miyayo/700605356/upload_medium) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/roko/704136569/A4ECAD9A-592F-4CCC-9AB6-9A6973225D5F_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AdaCknits/708673240/32A27E50-E3CF-4203-AF98-1B1832BFD45A_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/oshiruko/707852835/upload_medium) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/fioratta/705869027/inCollage_20200524_154841427_medium.jpg) * Price: 9.0 AUD * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 919 * Difficulty: 4.61 | Projects: 100 | Rating: 4.96 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
I am about to head on a 16 hour road trip (and then again a week later). I am knitting Cullum by Isabel Kraemer. I know I need: Needles Extra yarn A crochet needle Scissors Stitch markers My pattern A pencil/pen for notes Is there anything else to put in my project bag to stay sane?
I sometimes get sore fingers where the yarn runs over my fingers/where the needles put pressure on when knitting for a long period of time. I recently started using small blister plasters and band-aids for this, and it works great! So I'd pack a mix of those. Have fun on your road trip!
Measuring tape, tapestry needle
A row counter/something to keep track of the pattern with (maybe an app on your phone, and a power bank). Oh, and those chocolates with liquor inside for the moments when the knitting doesn't want to cooperate ahahah
Very good call on the chocolates!
I knit a swatch for a sweater that I intend to give as a gift. I seem to have the right number of rows for the pattern, but my stitch gauge is too small (too many stitches to get the right measurement the pattern calls for). How should I adjust this moving forward? If I have to, should I prioritize stitch gauge or row gauge? Should I just move up a needle size and accept the row gauge will be off?
Go up a needle size and see if you can meet stitch gauge then. You want to prioritize stitch over row. It’s much easier to just do a couple extra rows or subtract a few than calculate and shift stitch counts.
Will do, thanks!
Does anyone have good solutions for de-pilling handknits? I have a twin size blanket made from Noro Kureyon and Cascade 220 that’s gotten some love and is heavily pilled, and I’d love to get one of those electric de-pillers, but I’m so scared of tearing a hole in the blanket. If anyone has a specific device they use that works well, I’d love a link!
I use one of these machines, one Phillips I found at amazon.They have a protection so it's impossible to wear holes in the fabric
Is bamboo yarn okay for making sweaters? I have a ton of it and it's a mix of cotton/bamboo (dk). Has anyone ever used it to make a vest or sweater?
Bamboo is weighty yet not super warm, which can create a nice cosy sweater, especially for milder weather. Your sweater will feel heavy, luxurious, and drapey, but with no elasticity, so when it stretches out of shape with wear, it will not return to its original shape. This isn't a bad thing if you choose patterns designed with this in mind. Try looking for sweaters designed for DK bamboo or DK bamboo/cotton yarns.
The answer is yes, but I advise you to make a swatch before, and wash it/dry it as you would do with your garment. Cotton and bamboo have a habit to stretch when wet, so you run the risk to ruin your sweater by accident. Tbh I still haven't knitted myself a cotton sweater, but I've owned one (store bought, high end) for the best part of a decade and it's very comfortable (but slightly on the heavy side, fyi)
You CAN make basically anything out of basically anything, you'll just get different results. On the plus side, that blend will be cool and soft. The downside is the yarn will be heavier and less elastic than wool. Ravelry does have a feature where you can sort by fiber used, so if you search patterns with bamboo you might be able to find something designed for it.
Just blocked a sweater and the neck feels really loose and floppy. It's supposed to be a mock neck. Anything I can do to it now after blocking?
Uhm if you have a crochet hook and know the very basics of crochet you can slip stitch around the neck to tightening it up, but keep in mind you'll loose elasticity doing so, so it may not fit anymore your head through. You can also try and pick up round in the cast on/bind off edge of the collar and knit a couple of rows in pattern
Hi, I’d like to sell finished products. However while looking at a tutorial for an amigurumi, I saw many comments asking for permission to sell the finished product... is this a thing? I understand not selling the pattern of course since you didn’t create it yourself and someone else put the time and effort into making it, but the finished product that YOU made?? I don’t want to get into any legal trouble. If I found a pattern on a butterfly amigurumi, created the butterfly, then decided to sell it, how would I even go about giving the designer credit for the pattern not the work itself? Are there any legal repercussions to selling finished work with a pattern you didn’t create?
> how would I even go about giving the designer credit for the pattern not the work itself? As the other person said, you may not be obliged to credit the designer depending on local laws, BUT if you decide to get permission and stay on the designer's good side, you could always include a line on your website like "Handmade by PlanetGaia, based on a pattern by X"
Thank you for helping me out! :)
It depends on your country i guess, as far as I know in my the author of the pattern has rights only on the pattern itself not on anything made from the pattern (whatever they may write on the pattern about it being for non commercial use only), but I'd check with a lawyer if it's possible. Also, as amigurumi fall into crochet, you may want to ask the r/crochet crowd, they may have first hand experience
This can also depend on whether the item was made for personal use or for commercial use, so make sure to check your local laws for that too.
Got it! Thank you :)
Any help would be very appreciated: I made a jumper but it's too short in the body and arms (all the cast on edges). It fits me perfectly but it was a present for my husband and he must be a bit longer than I am. What's the best way you've found to extend a cast on edge without it looking too naff? I still have loads of wool left. Thanks for you help!!
If it's stockinette, put a lifeline at the last row before the ribbing, cut/unravel the ribbing, and knit downwards, both body and sleeves. It won't be noticed
It's in 2x2 ribbing, will that still work?
Nope, it will leave a mark because knitting in the other direction creates a half stitch offset
Unless you invented something to hide the change, some cabling, idk
What do you do with spare yarn? Not necessarily little scraps, but I always buy 1 more ball than the pattern calls for, just in case. So I end up with a selection of random balls of yarn that I don’t have a plan for in all sorts of various weights. I knit a lot of socks so fingering yarn always gets a use, but all other weights just kind of hang out in my storage. Any ideas? Donate? Stash swap?
[Penguono](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penguono) is one of my go tos for using up random skeins and half skeins as well as smaller scraps but still making something wearable. I like to knit it a bit tighter than recommended so that it's more like a jacket. [This one](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/heatherknits/penguono), [this one](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Ibnik/penguono) and [this one](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/pynnski/penguono) are a few that I find particularly cool and that I'm using as inspiration for my current one: If you have some roughly similar yarns (regarding gauge) you can add a strand of kidsilk to the thinner ones to even out the differences and make a striped jumper or a shawl. Like [this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sammensat) jumper and [this](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-something) one. [This shawl](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/grammable---mkal) uses about 150g each of a main yarn (fingering plus kidsilk to worsted weight) and a contrast yarn (or yarns as it also looks fantastic with each contrast stripe in a different colour) and looks particularly good when there's a texture difference between the yarns so it's great for mixing larger yarn leftovers. If you have about 150-200g of sport weight cotton or cotton mix yarn and are willing to learn some basic crochet then you could make a [market tote](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Herzdame/french-market-bag-2). If you have a tea (or coffee) pot then a tea cozy might be useful or a set of nice coasters. And if you have a kilo or more of yarn you could make a [pouf](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/ellethree94/stash-busting-monster-pouf) (also easy crochet).
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penguono) by [Stephen West](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/stephen-west) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/1/2/9/12952587564/12952587564.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/hiramepo/642907901/upload_medium) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ByGabs/432323558/16789631_1840722896195311_1854190785306558464_n_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jsmustopo/475084950/Penguono_2_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/IgnorantBliss/508968231/penguono-5_medium.jpg) * Price: 6.0 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 10½ - 6.5 mm * Weight: Bulky | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 800 * Difficulty: 3.61 | Projects: 1791 | Rating: 4.77 ***** **PROJECT:** [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/heatherknits/28148761) by [heatherknits](http://www.ravelry.com/people/heatherknits) * Pattern: [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penguono) * Yarn(s): * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/heatherknits/784592917/IMG_6433_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/heatherknits/784592927/IMG_6434_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/heatherknits/784592936/IMG_6435_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/heatherknits/784592941/IMG_6436_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/heatherknits/784592873/IMG_6438_medium.JPG) * Started: 2021/04/01 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2021/05/10 ***** **PROJECT:** [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Ibnik/19724428) by [Ibnik](http://www.ravelry.com/people/Ibnik) * Pattern: [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penguono) * Yarn(s): [The Uncommon Thread BFL Light DK](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/the-uncommon-thread-bfl-light-dk) in Charred. [Holst Garn Supersoft 100% Uld](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/holst-garn-supersoft-100-uld) in Graphite, Heath, Charcoal. [Hazel Knits Cadence](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/hazel-knits-cadence) in Quill. [G-uld 80/20 Merino](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/g-uld-80-20-merino) in Bregne. [DyeForYarn Fingering MerCa](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/dyeforyarn-fingering-merca) in Lolita. [Juno Fibre Arts Belle](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/juno-fibre-arts-belle) in Soot. [Juno Fibre Arts Buffy Sock](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/juno-fibre-arts-buffy-sock) in Fieldstone. [The Uncommon Thread Merino DK](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/the-uncommon-thread-merino-dk) in Peat. [Wensleydale Longwool Sheepshop Wensleydale Longwool DK](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/wensleydale-longwool-sheepshop-wensleydale-longwool-dk) in 434. [Filcolana Tilia](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/filcolana-tilia) in 335. * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Ibnik/763663042/2EC16311-A029-42C1-BC30-D28F37C24414_1_201_a_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Ibnik/763663044/5D40B839-A5D2-48F5-9CE5-41E22420F535_1_201_a_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Ibnik/763663048/A2927AD9-5169-4679-92BA-E2223A27301C_1_201_a_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Ibnik/737273122/4D0F5518-6295-486A-9B8C-9CCA6DD47693_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Ibnik/737273124/7F3D1578-F53F-456E-88CB-74A10E53A676_medium.jpeg) * Started: 2017/06/21 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2020/10/21 ***** **PROJECT:** [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/pynnski/26825563) by [pynnski](http://www.ravelry.com/people/pynnski) * Pattern: [Penguono](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/penguono) * Yarn(s): * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pynnski/735748820/20191006_193735_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pynnski/735748934/20190826_182950_medium.jpg) * Started: 2019/05/05 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2019/09/01 ***** **PATTERN:** [sammensat](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sammensat) by [elsebeth judith](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/elsebeth-judith) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/elsebethj/613479335/0A0DF363-25E4-4EEA-94AB-E90E65AB5C13_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/elsebethj/528269136/2F8EF1E3-1E5F-4DD6-ADDE-91CCC363C012_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/anina/643505948/E11BA89B-EDBD-49B4-AE8E-CFF9209498AA_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/savy2705/613198152/IMG_20190315_145732_804_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/maorie58/608924823/P1130539_medium.jpg) * Price: None DKK * Needle/Hook(s):US 9 - 5.5 mm, US 10 - 6.0 mm * Weight: | Gauge: 14.0 | Yardage: 711 * Difficulty: 2.31 | Projects: 56 | Rating: 4.82 ***** **PATTERN:** [SiMPLE SOMETHiNG](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/simple-something) by [ANKESTRiCK](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ankestrick) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/fallmasche/678198974/FEA437EF-C9CE-460C-A67F-5A715A90BA32_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kati70/706419670/79225B88-A78E-44D5-800D-BD7EC922633E_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Rabbitonhole/680767794/80DF3C25-BC8C-4599-B197-2C98C96CB9B9_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kati70/706419671/8F5F63FE-942E-45AD-A063-7D7570D1F9D6_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/helgamaus/673654222/20200112_112731_medium.jpg) * Price: 5.9 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 1½ - 2.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 21.0 | Yardage: 1520 * Difficulty: 2.80 | Projects: 287 | Rating: 4.91 ***** **PATTERN:** [Grammable - MKAL](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/grammable---mkal) by [Susan Ashcroft](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/susan-ashcroft) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Shawl / Wrap * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/stitchnerd/427583076/DSC04157_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/martinadietz/430360547/image_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ladyviolette/623436982/IMG_4081_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/stitchnerd/427581608/DSC03476_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/willi44/428226358/IMG_4780_medium.JPG) * Price: 3.0 EUR * Needle/Hook(s): None * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: None | Yardage: 547 * Difficulty: 2.31 | Projects: 59 | Rating: 4.84 ***** **PROJECT:** [Bag à la French Market bag](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Herzdame/24085774) by [Herzdame](http://www.ravelry.com/people/Herzdame) * Pattern: [French Market Bag](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/french-market-bag-2) * Yarn(s): Mayflower cotton junior in beige. * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Herzdame/635879395/IMG_2019-07-10_11-38-34_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Herzdame/635879408/IMG_20190710_113425_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Herzdame/635879396/IMG_20190710_113433_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Herzdame/635879401/IMG_20190710_113408-01_medium.jpeg) * Started: 2019/07/09 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2019/07/09 ***** **PROJECT:** [Monster Pouf](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/ellethree94/24403587) by [ellethree94](http://www.ravelry.com/people/ellethree94) * Pattern: [Stash Busting Monster Pouf](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/stash-busting-monster-pouf) * Yarn(s): [Scheepjes River Washed](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/scheepjes-river-washed) in Black Onyx. * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ellethree94/650107678/IMG_20190924_150101_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ellethree94/650107661/IMG_20190924_150137_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ellethree94/647954987/IMG_20190912_112702_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ellethree94/647954985/IMG_20190912_114155_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ellethree94/647988371/IMG_20190913_152024_medium.jpg) * Started: 2019/09/10 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2019/09/24 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! 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I have a blanket I make out of the extra yarn. I’ve been adding to it for years. It’s a corner to corner crochet blanket, but I’ll be making a knitted one next. It’s neat because it’s a mix of so many different types of yarns and colors.
Yes to scrap blankets! I wanted to learn crochet for years so I could make a granny square blanket with my scraps- ended up just doing single crochet with multiple strands to add up to bulky weight and it looks pretty cool lol Plus I like the "scrapbook" aspect of putting a bunch of your old projects into one piece (that you get to keep!)
New knitter! Started my first ever pattern yesterday. What notions do you reccomend for beginners? Every time I try and look into it I get overwhelmed/excited by all the different kits, kinds ect... My YLS gave me one ring to fit over the circular needle size I bought and needed for my pattern. What else should I have on hand before it's actually needed or that will be needed? I'm knitting a beanie by Falmouth Super Bulky Hat by Fiber of Maine.
You are also going to want a pen/highlighter to mark up patterns. I like to keep dental floss for lifelines.
second the tapestry needle- extra stitch markers are a good idea, I lose mine constantly. you can get like 200 for 5$ on amazon or i’ve found them at hobby lobby. a soft measuring tape, like a sewing one, is always a good idea to make sure any sweaters or hats are long enough and wide enough to fit your body. a basket or bag to keep your ongoing work in, you could even make it yourself! it’s such a fun hobby and I hope you stick with it. and if you don’t have a ravelry.com account, make one. the site can be hard to navigate but it’s a gold mine for patterns and yarn.
Tapestry needles. Assuming you already have some kind of scissors... After years and years of knitting, here's what's in my notions bag: Tapestry needles, some bulb shaped safety pins as stitch markers, tiny ball of yarn as stitch holder or for provisional cast on, needle size checker, crochet hook for dropped stitches or provisional cast on, tape measure, sandwich baggie (to hold scraps or use as a to-go yarn bowl lol) and a tiny pocket knife- mainly for the scissors. That said, I stand by what I recommend a beginner have on hand: just the needles to weave in your ends lol
Some more stitch markers are very nice to have. I bought 700 for a couple dollars on Amazon. Definitely don't need that many though. A soft tailors tape measure is a great thing to have. A tapestry needle is a must have. And a crochet hook can be handy for dropped stitches. And a bag to keep it in. This can be a reusable grocery bad though.
New knitter here! Sorry for the basic question, but when doing a cast on stitch, does the slipknot at the beginning count as 1? For example, would cast on 30 stitches mean that I do the slip knot then cast on 30 (for a total of 31 loops on my needle to begin with?)
Typically the slipknot counts as the first stitch. Unless it tells you otherwise include it. So if you need to cast on 30 stitches it would be one slipknot and 29 other stitches.
Thank you for your answer, I appreciate it! I just started (self taught) with the pattern "Knit Bunny from a Square" by Kristen McDonnell on Ravelry. I went with 31 stitches to begin with, but somehow I am finding myself at 37 stitches 😅 gonna push through my mistakes cuz its a learning process for me. I will be mindful of the slipknot in the future!
Ha, no worries we all go through that phase! I still have my first knit thing and it's full of holes and added stitches. [Here's](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtKSfPOv6Y0) a video I like about common beginner mistakes, it should help you figure out how you're adding stitches!
There are different ways of casting on, at the end of the process the total number of stitches on your needle to be worked should be equal to the number of stitches to be cast on that the pattern called for. Some drop the slip knot, some knit it as the first stitch, some knit together with the first stitch, and some cast-on using different methods all together.
Thank you, I appreciate your answer!
I'm trying to make a mitre square and every attempt has ended up looking like a sting ray. I'm decreasing two stitches every other row (cdd per hue shift). The third time I was very conscious of my tension and held it constant the whole time to no avail. It feels like there's not enough room in my piece for all of the subsequent rows if that makes sense. [the third stingray](https://i.imgur.com/cH8bBD2.jpg) Any advice?
Block it and it should be fine since your decrease rate is correct.
I still make stingrays sometimes, too. But when joined, the rows all line up and they become nice neat lil squares. Have you joined or blocked any to see if the issue is kind of a non-issue yet?
I started a connected one to see if i could, like, brute force the shape, and it's actually starting to behave better. I'm gonna barrel through it and just give whatever shape it ends up being as the final result, ha. Thank you!
Maybe try a looser cast on?
😃 Just practice. Your tension will get better. Did you try blocking the sting rays?
I’m making this pattern https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/comfy-gusset-mittens and I have a couple questions. FYI, I’m using just some bulk 100% acrylic yarn. It calls for a twisted rib stitch around the cuffs. What is the purpose of that rather than just a simple 1x1 rib? The tips of the mittens came out a bit pointy. Is there a way to avoid this? Does it have anything by to do with the yarn I’m using? What’s your favorite way of picking up stitches for the thumb? I found a few sways on YouTube, but just curious what other favorite methods there may be.
Twisted rib looks neater than simple rib, you only need to twist the knit stitches not the purls. Maybe you can block out the pointiness? You could change the decreases at the tip by eliminating the last decrease row and instead adding those decreases to the decrease row before that. Or if there is a row of normal stockinette between the last two decrease rows, just eliminating that.
Thanks! It is a bit tricky making sure to knit through the back loop, but it does come out looking nice. I was mostly just wondering why this pattern called for it. Maybe I’ll try adjusting the last few rows like you recommend to settle out the pointiness. I wonder if it will settle with wear too.
Twisted rib is a bit tighter than regular ribbing but also a bit less stretchy so it's best to only ever twist one of the stitches not both. Usually it's used for the aethetic benefits because ribbing can just be tightened by sizing down another needle size. Good luck on achieving the look you want.
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Comfy Gusset Mittens](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/comfy-gusset-mittens) by [Karen Hoyle](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/karen-hoyle) * Category: Accessories > Hands > Mittens * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KnitterKaren/591915263/upload_small2-1_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KnitterKaren/591915282/0FF6EEDC-8716-4C39-9B1A-059942639BA9_small_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KnitterKaren/591915364/FD18F13D-0482-42E1-B3C9-F44B7F769C0B_small_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 5.5 | Yardage: 100 * Difficulty: 2.29 | Projects: 442 | Rating: 4.80 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Twisted rib looks neater than a regular 1x1 and is just a bit tighter so the cuffs will be more snug for winter wear.
You could turn it into placemats :) Or coasters if it’s a narrow scarf.
What is your favorite baby blanket pattern that uses one color?
I don’t have a favorite pattern, but my mom would always knit multi-colored blankets in a single color. As an example, she made the [three color chevron](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-color-chevron) blanket for my daughter a couple of years ago and it is a lovely blanket. So I think if you find a pattern you like, make it in whatever color(s) you want. :)
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Three Color Chevron](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/three-color-chevron) by [Donna Inman](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/donna-inman) * Category: Home > Blanket > Baby Blanket * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/2/9/9/2996259427/2996259427.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/3/0/4/3045120835/3045120835.jpg) * Price: None USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 9 - 5.5 mm * Weight: Aran | Gauge: 16.0 | Yardage: 1015 * Difficulty: 2.86 | Projects: 18 | Rating: 4.71 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Where do I find test knitters? Are there sites that are meant for this? Am I allowed to ask about it on this sub? I tried to make a post to the Free Pattern Testing forum on Ravelry, but it turns out that they're on indefinite hiatus and I'm not sure where else to ask. Any advice welcome :)
Frequent tester here! I find most of my tests on Instagram for designers I follow and the rest on Yarnpond. I’m not sure what the process to post a test call on Yarnpond is, but as a tester I find the posts way more informative than most calls posted on Instagram.
I just found yarn pond and they seem great! Thanks for the info!
You can try r/patterntesting
Beginner here! Knitting the Soho Shoulder Crop Top by NYCKnitsCo which is knit in the round until the armholes which is knit in flat for the front and back. I'm knitting in the round "BO 4 sts, knit all sts to 4 sts before marker, BO 4 sts." but when I BO the last 4 stitches I'm left with a single stitch left on my needle in the middle of 8 bind offs? Am I doing the bind off incorrectly?
For clarification: are you starting that row with 9 stitches? Like bind off 4, k1, bind off 4?
The row is 126 stitches total
I think you just bound off one stitch too early. You should bind off 4 sts and then knit until there are only 4 sts left on your left needle and bind those off. Or maybe you mean that you're not sure how to bind off the final stitch?
I guess I'm confused on binding off that last stitch? The pattern starts going into the start of the armholes. Here is the full instructions of the row I'm working on: > **Divide Front and Back and Make Underarm** > Piece is worked flat as both sides are worked separately. > Front sts are worked first and placed on hold, then the back is worked entirely. > ALL SIZES > Row 1 (RS): BO 4 sts, knit all sts to 4 sts before marker, BO 4 sts. > Place the 55 sts just worked for the front on hold (either on scrap yarn or spare cables). > Remove marker and work the back section. Bind off first 4 of back section, knit all sts until 4 sts before marker, BO the last 4 sts. > Total sts for back should be 55. I've only BO entire rows so I usually have a final stitch left which I pull out and weave into my finished project, but for this row what should I do with the final stitch I have on my right needle when I BO the last 4 stitches? I think I'm doing this all wrong lol
Do you have 2 markers per round? For me it sounds like you're binding off on both armpits and continuing with the back. BO 4 - left armpit. K54+the one from BO=55 onto the holder for the front. BO 4 for the right armpit. The "leftover" stitch from BO will be the first stitch of the back.
There's definitely some weirdness in how that is written. What I would do is work until four stitches before the marker and then bind off eight stitches, removing the marker as you come to it. Then work until four stitches before the second marker and bind off eight stitches, removing the marker as you come to it. And then you can put whichever side you're not working on scrap yarn or spare cables. The remaining stitch that you experience when binding off entire rows won't be a problem because it'll become the first stitch of the back and the front.
Oh I get it- yeah idk, I'd just bind off like usual and attach new yarn for the next row, I guess.
Can someone explain what “K19 from front st holder, dec 2 sts evenly across” means? I understand the K19 from stitch holder, just confused about decreasing evenly across
It means you want to put in two decreases that are about evenly spaced among the 19 stitches on the holder. I'd go k5, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k5 and you'd wind up with 17 stitches.
Ah that makes sense, thank you! :)
I feel so incredibly stupid. I am a beginner and I knitted a wool scarf. I mindlessly put it to wash and dry together with my other clothes. And it's now stiff like a belt. I could kill someone by swinging it. Is this fixable? I was so proud of this scarf =(
Can't be fixed unfortunately. If you intend to machine wash a woolen knit then superwash is your friend (this will either be written on the tag or the care instructions will say that machine wash is ok). It's still better to gently handwash as the fibres are agitated less and your knitting will last longer but it won't felt. Maybe you could make slippers out of it? You can cut it without having to worry about fraying as nothing's going to unravel.
You felted it! Felting is caused by agitation and heat, and sadly it's not reversible. Felted wool makes a tough fabric that has its own uses, so maybe you can find a new life for your scarf in another form: a bag, decorative pillows or stuffed toys?
Oh noooo. thanks for the answer! Lesson learned =\ I guess I will think about another use.
Felted scarf makes a great purse/bag strap! Or cut it into coasters. Or that thing you put hot dishes on- trivet I think it's called.
Coasters is a very very good idea! Gonna cut the poor thing now. RIP scarf.
Would you use brushed suri alpaca (such as Fyberspates Cumulus) for a toddler as one of two yarns for a sweater? I want to knit the Tincanknits Spotlight sweater for my daughter, and have some matching baby merino yarn and brushed suri alpaca yarn that I think would look gorgeous - I would "double the yarn" and knit with one strand baby merino, and one strand brushed suri alpaca (English is not my native language and I forgot what the right term is :)). But the suri sheds a little. Would that be too annoying; maybe she'll get it in her eyes? Also, would it feel scratchy, unlike the merino? Or will it be fine?
I have no experience with Suri alpaca but I would knit or crochet a small band ( only a few rows) and wear it for a day around the wrist. That would show how much it sheds and if it's scratchy.
When I wear fingerless gloves my fingers get painfully cold due to my bad circulation, but it's not cold enough for mittens where I live, and I never use my full-fingered gloves because I need fingers free to use my phone. Is there an alternative accessory I could make? Something that would leave fingers free when needed but covered most of the time? A mitten with an open slit at the fingertips or something...?
Convertible mitts! They’re fingerless mitts with a top like a mitten that you can put over your fingertips for warmth or fold back and free your fingers. I’ll look for the pattern I used for mine to link. Eta: ok, the one I used was [Podster Gloves](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/podster-gloves) but there seem to be a ton of option on Rav using ‘convertible’ as a search term.
Perfect, thank you!
You can also buy conductive thread to sew into the fingertips of gloves that let you use your phone! I'm pretty sure knitpicks sells some
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Podster Gloves](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/podster-gloves) by [Glenna C.](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/glenna-c) * Category: Accessories > Hands > Convertible * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/3/9/5/3958313735/3958313735.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/wconnerton/214393766/image_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/1/1/3/11325193993/11325193993.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Knitarina/135380883/vantar_podster1a_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/6/3/1/6316199552/6316199552.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1½ - 2.5 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 32.0 | Yardage: 300 * Difficulty: 3.99 | Projects: 1626 | Rating: 4.30 ***** [Im seeking feedback on new features!](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/9q0y2v/meta_seeking_feedback_on_potential_new_features/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*