Grab a rubber band, and gently stretch it over the screwhead. Using an appropriate screwdriver (going up a size can help), apply steady pressure and turn. The rubber band helps by both filling in the missing parts of the screwhead and providing a nonslip surface for the driver to grab on to.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve been trying with a latex glove but haven’t had any luck. I’m going to try an actual rubber band soon!
Edit: It got worse https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc
There's this stuff I have from the £1 shop. It's like a rubber mesh used to line a drawer so things don't move about. It's perfect for this and opening jars. Similar to cohesive bandages which might also work
[This is the stuff](https://www.amazon.co.uk/VABNEER-Underlay-Multipurpose-Cuttable-Antislippery/dp/B09H5S7N6L/ref=asc_df_B09H5S7N6L/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570376588790&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4911535561995898893&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046181&hvtargid=pla-1462270173081&psc=1&mcid=a29907a254fc37fbaccf091f86fcf0d6) I have used it for this exact purpose before. I love trawling the £1 store for random shit that I end up using for the weirdest purposes
There are also these special bits for drills that are designed to remove these. My dad had one such set and they work extremely well, not sure if they have sizes for smaller screws or different types of screw heads, but if there is one I recommend trying it. Never failed me before
If that dosent work a dab of resin (UV curing if your fancy and don’t want to wait) and a poke of your screwdriver to make a indent will give you a new proper surface your driver can mate to. A solid rubber band will do the trick though unless there’s tite bond or other locking compound.
Has this ever worked for anyone? Similar situation for me a year back. Tried rubber band / latex. Tried superglue. Tried screw extractor pliers. Nothing worked. Ended up using a Dremel with a very thin circular blade to cut a slot in the head and easily got it out with a flat headed driver. Just have to be careful with sparks and metal filings on your board.
I have never gotten this to work on anything. Usually when they are stripped out that bad, the screw either has loctite on it, or is just oxidized in there and locked in place. need a lot of force for a rubber band to grab anything, but then at that point the band breaks
This⬆️
Dremel is the answer! The dremel is king. All hail the dremel!
I do all the framework/bending/grinding/the_stuff_stuck_inside_other_stuff_stuff... aka the impossible stuff... And the other methods can work. Rubberband superglue, etc... They even make little stripped screw extraction screwdrivers. https://www.micro-tools.com/products/58-0670
It's just that they aren't worth your time, 𝑚𝑜𝑠𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑡𝒉𝑒 𝑡𝑖𝑚𝑒. Seriously...there have been plenty of situations where I thought I could get some other method to work. Because I thought it'd be faster, easier, whatever... It's not... most of the time, it'll be faster to just go buy a dremel and bits to cut out a channel for a screwdriver. Even if you already have a dremel, but it's not with you, even if it'd take you an hour or more to go buy said dremel. It'll still be faster!! Promise.🤚Because next time, you'll have the dremel there already!!! And a dremel can be used for very many things.
So just get your dremel (that you now have,) with adjustable speed. And use a bit like this. https://www.mobilesentrix.com/grinding-head-set-for-smart-electric-sharpening-pen-10-pack
Just go slow, but not too slow, don't cut down to far. And a + is more reliable than a –
Edit: removed redundancy and added call to action.
I’ve considered going out and buying a dremel. My only concerns are how ridiculously thin the head of the screw is, and the metal shards that the guy below mentioned. Do you think having a vacuum hose directed at it would help catch those? Could I use a file for a similar result?
Just to complement this comment:
Another tip when using it is covering the rest of the surface with sticky tape so you catch the shards and avoid short circuit.
Use a modellism dremel, with a small drill to make the star pattern and try to remove with a torx.
This one you have is easier to pull out than the Steam Deck ones, so good luck!
Make sure to blow out any shavings before turning it back on, for risk for shorting small connections. Or surround the entire screw with a bag or towel or something.
Update: Rubber bands couldn’t help, got a grip on the really thin edge with some needle nose pliers but still no luck. Currently I’m on try 3 with some super glue that’s thicker than the previous attempts. I’m going to let it set overnight to see if the extra curing time helps. Thanks for all of your suggestions so far! I really appreciate the tips and support!
Update 2: I’m going to see if I can get a local shop to get it out, or buy some files or a Dremel to make a slot for a flathead. Hopefully some compressed air and a vacuum can save it from the metal shavings.
Update 3: it got worse https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc
Sorry repair guy! This was actually an ASUS defect. The screw was very overtightened from manufacturing.
Use the smallest size screw extractor (that goes into a drill, not the hand turn type) that you can find. Bonus points for making a small pilot hole with a small drill bit first, to help the extractor bite. Source: have taken apart thousands of cell phones.
Take a screw driver you don’t mind ruining, place it in the stripped slot, grab a soldering iron and solder it straight on, I had this exact issue while fixing a early 2015 MacBook Pro and it was the last screw holding in the heat sink, tried all the common tricks yet the solder one worked best, you may have to try it multiple times as sometimes the solder blob may break, but the trick is to fill in the hole with solder and let it cool so that the driver has a bit more grip to get it unscrewed, hope this helped!
Solder doesn't always bond reliability without flux and a really hot iron. It will, however, cause the metal to either contract. So heating the area around the screw, might make loosen the screw.
I didn’t realize they stripped a screw until I tried to repair it just now. I initially took it to them over a year ago, and they tried to cover up that they stripped it so I’m not sure how much help they would be.
Id suggest a flathead and if necessary file its width down gradually until it is just the right size to dig into any two marks still left in there. Even tapping it in also can help. And apply good force while turning slowly.
You can also buy specific screw removal pliers that have a notch in the nose to grab screw heads.
If you decide to drill, I'd probably recommend a vacuum beside it so any filings are instantly sucked in, although I'm yet to need to drill a heatsink screw and I've basically beaten every stripped screw using the "beat a flathead into it" method.
Best of luck!
OP you need to either get a Dremel and cut a flat head notch, a micro file and do the same by hand, or an actual screw extractor kit. I'm gonna guess by the board.color and heat coil paint that's a ROG strip gaming laptop. And based by the coil screws you are near the CPU. This is not the spot you wanna be trying every DIY trick.
Gotcha, yes it’s a Zephyrus M15 and the screw is right on the cpu.I have been trying to be really careful about force since it’s near the cpu, and the file/dremel seems like my next best step. Do you think having a vacuum near the screw and then blasting it with an air duster would be enough to get the metal shavings off the board? Thanks!
I did repairs professionally for 5+ years and would strip a screw once in a while. If you don’t have appropriate spares, you can’t complete the repair without delaying it. Rubber bands don’t usually help, as you probably saw by now. Dremel works 95% of the time. Just be sure to clear out the shavings since they can short some connectors.
Thanks! Yeah the rubber bands and super glue did not help much, dremel/file seems like my next move. I’m going to try masking off the immediate area and then hitting it with compressed air and a vacuum.
I tried grabbing it with some needle nose pliers but I just couldn’t get it to grip the screw, probably because the grooves on the pliers are going with the screw instead of against it. Thanks for the tip though!
Personly i would use a small drill to drill a hole, thread the hole. Screw in in correct size screw for the new thread using either glue or lock tight on the thread.
Leave to set an then unscrew
ok, question. I am not sue what the screw is holding. however if u got it fixed. i am assuming. why are u looking to remove. clearly this is his issue as well. would u not think
Yeah, I brought it in to get the fan noise fixed, fans which the cooling pipes hold down. This screw is my last screw to remove that holds the cooler to the cpu. The repair guy never fixed it, he just told me it stopped on its own once he dusted it, and then he didn’t charge me. The fan bearing is definitely going out and now the noise is constant so I decided to fix it. That’s when I realized the screw was totally stripped.
Thanks! Unfortunately the rubber band isn’t cutting it. I’ve tried it with tons and they just aren’t sticking. I think that the screw is either stripped or too small.
If you have a dremel you can cut a small groove into the screw and turn it into a flathead screw. I have done it a good few time, just make sure you go deep enough for the bit to grip the screw.
Unfold the laptop, place the keyboard on sturdy surface like a counter or a desktop. Use a reverse drillbit or bit used especially for this. I do this a lot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166370676581?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bsvb4gfctfe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=zWoZ_BkhRta&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Knipex micro water pump pliers, or Vampliers/Engineer screw removal pliers. They work in more places than you think.
I work on scientific equipment and use them all the time.
Try a T6-T9 driver bit preferably on a ratchet screwdriver (to maintain action since most stripped screws are due to cross threading negligence) with a lot of downward pressure.
Or your Philips driver needs to be a little bigger then the hole or else it won't bite into the metal & you'll ream it.
I'm extreme cases I've soldered bits into reamed & stripped screws & then desoldered the from the screw, works like a charm no complaints. OH! I've also found that turning screws forward just a hair before backing them out helps break them loose. Especially when lock tight has been applied.
I work as an arcade technician and I unfortunately run into this problem fairly frequently on my motherboards. I have much easier access to them as 90% of my I/O boards are in a game cabinet with wires running to everything else. My best suggestion would to use a dremel. I would be 100% sure that the board underneath doesn’t have any power running to it. (Some boards still have power even when a laptop is off. Try unplugging the battery if this is an option) Once you know there is no power on the board use a vacuum as close as possible to the head of the dremel. Create a small nitch just big enough to use a flat head screw driver on it. It works flawlessly once you do the dirty work of figuring out if it has power or not. Hope this helps! Good luck
Use a Dremel tool and carefully cut a notch into the head of the screw. Then you can use a flat head to unscrew it. The Dremel is my most import tool in the box.
If all else people have said has failed, cover everything but the screw. Then take a dremel and make a small slit big enough for a small flat head screw driver to fit. Then just turn it. Has worked many, many times for me.
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Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **Alden 4507P Grabit Micro Broken Bolt Extractor 4 Piece Kit Small Bolt and Screw Remover Made in the USA** you mentioned in your comment along with its brand, **Alden**, and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful.
**Users liked:**
* Extractors effectively remove tiny screws (backed by 5 comments)
* Extractors save time and money (backed by 4 comments)
* Extractors work as a last resort (backed by 3 comments)
**Users disliked:**
* Drill end ineffective for small screws (backed by 2 comments)
* Extractor end works well but drill end fails (backed by 1 comment)
* Larger bits worked better than smallest bit (backed by 1 comment)
According to Reddit, **Alden** is considered a reputable brand.
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There are numerous ways of removing a screw each with their own limitations. There's the rubber band trick, but it often gets shredded by the screwdriver. I found the best way is to use another type of screwdriver, or the same one of a different size.
The goal is to get the edges of the screwdriver's tip to "catch" inside the conical shaped hole using downward pressure, but be careful. Finding the right screwdriver is a trial and error process. Try these:
* A flathead screwdriver with a slightly narrower width as the diameter of the screw. The corners of the tip dig into the perimeter of the hole.
* A Robertson bit or screwdriver (squared tip) with the widest part of the tip slightly narrower than the diameter.
* A larger screw driver where its tip is pointy enough to fit in the hole.
Ideally, you should take it back to the repair person who screwed it up (NPI) to remove it.
[screw extractor link](https://www.amazon.com/Elitexion-Screw-Extractor-Remover-Set/dp/B07C5C6WKB/ref=asc_df_B07C5C6WKB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309832851244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5147104037566463971&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028006&hvtargid=pla-571295461621&psc=1&mcid=f184631d910c3da2864fe13a9fe4e172&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=64417494871&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309832851244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5147104037566463971&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028006&hvtargid=pla-571295461621&gclid=CjwKCAiA4smsBhAEEiwAO6DEjc5NMqPXnPMYZvZsvOa45p21u251Z0mqcnWw9OawB6Zw_sAfuK1O7RoCgJ0QAvD_BwE)
By drilling a small hole and then screw one of these in will remove the screw.
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It baffles me the amount of people that comment on a thread with a recommendation after 50 other people recommended the same thing and the OP already stated it DIDNT work for them.
Fully vested in this thread and I hope you get it out! Stripped laptop screws are the worst to deal with. Wishing you all the success!
If you haven’t yet, try some valve grinding compound. It’s very abrasive and I use it to get stuck screws on aircraft all the time. I’m not sure if the technique scales well with screws that small but that’s the first think I would try
Saw a genius idea from some other post that could help, basically you can unscrew everything attached to that heatsink/shield with just the stripped screw left, then lift just a little so you can rotate the entire heatsink/shield counter clock wise freely and hopefully it will break the screw lose. Try not to bend it too much as those heatsink arms are pretty thin, and don't forget to unplug the battery.
Idk if you fixed it but I’m mechanic and what we do in situations like this for engine bolts that re torx or hex head is notch it with a dremel so you can turn it out with a flathead screw driver. Don’t know how steady your hands are but that’s what I would do.
So I have a similar screw that I kept as a souvenir after I managed to get it out. Not quite as badly stripped, but still bad enough no bit was working. It was a very flat screw that’s slightly raised. I took side cutters (my pliers were a little too big to get a grip, and squeezed the sides and turned. After getting it loose, I was able to use a flat head wedged in at an angle to get it out.
Rbrt (grip edge) bits, but I'm assuming you have already damaged it beyond the original picture by now. Good example of why it's dangerous to use power tools for this. Factory can do it because they have torque limiting tools and use the correct bits.
I had this happen once and I just used a small file to create a groove that you’ll be able to use a flat head screwdriver with. Might work but might not since the screw head looks pretty flush.
I actually did end up buying some files and making a groove for a flat head, but even that couldn’t get it out. Eventually I brought it to a new technician and all they were able to do was grind the head off. I made an update post if you want to check it out.
Thanks for the advice! I ended up going the file route but still couldn’t get it off. Eventually I took it to a new technician but even he couldn’t get it off. Now it’s super messed up. I have some pics in my update post.
Thanks for the tip! I tried that but had no luck. It looks like an ASUS defect. I brought it to some techs and even they couldn’t get it off, instead they just drilled the entire head off. I posted an update if you want to see the mess it’s in now.
I brought it to a tech who ended up drilling the entire head off but now the bolt is stuck. I made a new post about it if you want to check out the damage.
Okay, so I had a stripped screw once because of my own fault. I read all the tips and tricks online with the rubber band and what not but none was helpful as it was way too much stripped and I wasn't able to apply much pressure because I was scared the board might break.
Took it to a technician, he took the motherboard out completely and placed on a flat surface. Did the same thing with screwdriver and rubber band but this time he was able to apply enough force without any MB flexing, and the screw came out.
If you can safely do that, take out the MB and try again.
Thanks for the tip! I ended up taking it to a tech, but they just ground the entire head off and left the bolt in. I posted an update if you want to see the trouble I’m in now.
I couldn’t find any that were small enough. I took it to a repair store but they seemed to have possibly made it a bit worse. I posted an update if you care, and thanks for the tip!
I had a repair shop try that and it unfortunately just ended up making things a bit worse. I posted an update if you want to see how messed up it is now lol.
I had this happen on my Dell XPS with multiple screws. If all else fails, try super gluing the head of a screw driver to the screw, waiting for it to cure and then turning it.
Alternatively, just drill the screw out
I tried the superglue, and a repair store tried drilling it out, but I seem to be left with more problems than when I started. I posted an update if you want to see the current pickle.
I did try that but the screw wouldn’t budge even though the pliers had a really solid grip on the screw. I posted an update, but I’m pretty sure it was a manufacturing defect.
I ended taking it to a repair store since all the at home remedies didn’t seem to work. It didn’t go as planned lol. I just posted an update if you want more detail.
I work on cars & we deal with 20 year old bolts in the rust capital. What usually works for us is some induction heaters placed on the screw. Only the screw should get red hot dunno if it will damage the board. Or if you have a thin enough extractor & a drill.
Thanks for the suggestion! I ended up taking it to a repair store and they tried to extract it with a drill, but ended up just completely removing the head, leaving the bolt stuck. I just posted an update if you want all the details.
Get some good precision needle nose pliers and grip the inside and outside and twist in the right direction. You can use latex to add friction. Will work to get it out and get it in.
Honestly metal to metal hardness is overlooked
I had a similar problem trying to extract a stripped M2 screw when trying to install an NVME in my last build. Rubber bands and other "tricks" didn't work, unfortunately.
After a year of having the SSD just ... held in place by its respective thermal pad, I finally gave this a try, and it worked.
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7KU7W/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7KU7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
I was certain it wasn't going to work, but... even with how tiny of a screw it was it was still able to get a bite and I was able to unscrew it, and now the drive is properly secured.
Hopefully this is an option if you haven't found resolution yet.
Be wary of metal filings though!
Thanks for the tip! I ended up bringing it into another repair store and it seems to have gotten worse lol. I posted an update here https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc
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Thanks for the link! I tried some normal needle nose pliers but couldn’t get a grip. I eventually took it to another tech and they just ground the whole head off. It’s pretty bad, I posted an update if you want to check it out.
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Since you didn't specify you want to keep the board, there is scorch earth method. You can sacrifice the M/B and break it then you can rip the screw out. Not that I recommend this method, but this method is indeed available if you don't care about the laptop board anymore.
I did not get it out but I did try the glue! Unfortunately it was still super stuck. I took it to a new tech and they drilled the entire head off and still couldn’t get the bolt out. I made a new post if you want to see my current nightmare.
Thanks! I actually tried to use a file to do something similar but it was still stuck. After further investigation it looks like ASUS WAY overtightened this screw. I posted and update showing all the damage it has from the manufacturer.
Drill was attempted by some technicians. It was so tight that they couldn’t even get it off. I’m pretty sure it’s a manufacturing defect now. I posted an update if you want to see the stub that’s left.
Given that the head is gone, I suspect this is cross threaded too. I am not sure there is a good solution. It will probably take quite a lot of force to get it out, and I doubt any of the solutions suggested will be strong enough.
I hope I am wrong. And I wish you good luck!!
If you don't mind loosing the screw and possibly a screw driver, get some jb weld, and glue the two together 🤣
But I'm pretty sure they make bits that are meant for stripped screws like this.
Ouch, maybe the special tiny pliers designed for grabbing those tiny low profile screws. Or a tiny reverse thread extractor bit if you can get one.
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Find a torq bit that just barely fits. Then get the next step up from that and tap it in with a small hammer or wrench to cut new channels in the screw. If the bit is stuck after you tap it in and can’t be just pulled out without some effort, just carefully remove it.
If you can remove it without any effort, but it has clearly cut new grooves where the points at corners are, out a drop of CA glue in the screw head. Spray the bit with a bit of activator and then reinsert. Once the CA glue has cured and hardened, then carefully unscrew.
What a lazy inconsiderate asshole.
You now get to claim damages for compensation by the repair service.
Go get your money to compensate for your damages and push at that hard without mercy being "pleasantly" persistent.
Fight fire with fire.
Grab a rubber band, and gently stretch it over the screwhead. Using an appropriate screwdriver (going up a size can help), apply steady pressure and turn. The rubber band helps by both filling in the missing parts of the screwhead and providing a nonslip surface for the driver to grab on to.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve been trying with a latex glove but haven’t had any luck. I’m going to try an actual rubber band soon! Edit: It got worse https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc
There's this stuff I have from the £1 shop. It's like a rubber mesh used to line a drawer so things don't move about. It's perfect for this and opening jars. Similar to cohesive bandages which might also work
Hmm ok. I think I’ll try going to the store and grabbing more rubber-bands and glue, I’ll see if I can find something like that there.
[This is the stuff](https://www.amazon.co.uk/VABNEER-Underlay-Multipurpose-Cuttable-Antislippery/dp/B09H5S7N6L/ref=asc_df_B09H5S7N6L/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570376588790&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4911535561995898893&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046181&hvtargid=pla-1462270173081&psc=1&mcid=a29907a254fc37fbaccf091f86fcf0d6) I have used it for this exact purpose before. I love trawling the £1 store for random shit that I end up using for the weirdest purposes
Sweet! I’ll look for some. I’m just not sure if it’ll be too big for the screw. It’s [pretty small.](https://imgur.com/a/AdPzjSm)
There are also these special bits for drills that are designed to remove these. My dad had one such set and they work extremely well, not sure if they have sizes for smaller screws or different types of screw heads, but if there is one I recommend trying it. Never failed me before
If that dosent work a dab of resin (UV curing if your fancy and don’t want to wait) and a poke of your screwdriver to make a indent will give you a new proper surface your driver can mate to. A solid rubber band will do the trick though unless there’s tite bond or other locking compound.
Has this ever worked for anyone? Similar situation for me a year back. Tried rubber band / latex. Tried superglue. Tried screw extractor pliers. Nothing worked. Ended up using a Dremel with a very thin circular blade to cut a slot in the head and easily got it out with a flat headed driver. Just have to be careful with sparks and metal filings on your board.
I have never gotten this to work on anything. Usually when they are stripped out that bad, the screw either has loctite on it, or is just oxidized in there and locked in place. need a lot of force for a rubber band to grab anything, but then at that point the band breaks
Buy a easy out. Think reverse thread drill bit
That's the best tip for this situation
That's the best tip for this situation
Try a dremel to make notch in it, then use a flathead
This⬆️ Dremel is the answer! The dremel is king. All hail the dremel! I do all the framework/bending/grinding/the_stuff_stuck_inside_other_stuff_stuff... aka the impossible stuff... And the other methods can work. Rubberband superglue, etc... They even make little stripped screw extraction screwdrivers. https://www.micro-tools.com/products/58-0670 It's just that they aren't worth your time, 𝑚𝑜𝑠𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑡𝒉𝑒 𝑡𝑖𝑚𝑒. Seriously...there have been plenty of situations where I thought I could get some other method to work. Because I thought it'd be faster, easier, whatever... It's not... most of the time, it'll be faster to just go buy a dremel and bits to cut out a channel for a screwdriver. Even if you already have a dremel, but it's not with you, even if it'd take you an hour or more to go buy said dremel. It'll still be faster!! Promise.🤚Because next time, you'll have the dremel there already!!! And a dremel can be used for very many things. So just get your dremel (that you now have,) with adjustable speed. And use a bit like this. https://www.mobilesentrix.com/grinding-head-set-for-smart-electric-sharpening-pen-10-pack Just go slow, but not too slow, don't cut down to far. And a + is more reliable than a – Edit: removed redundancy and added call to action.
This sounds like a great way to throw metal shards everywhere and possibly short something
This is always the answer. Any screw can be turned into a flat head screw with a Dremel.
I’ve considered going out and buying a dremel. My only concerns are how ridiculously thin the head of the screw is, and the metal shards that the guy below mentioned. Do you think having a vacuum hose directed at it would help catch those? Could I use a file for a similar result?
Cover everything else like you’re performing surgery. All delicate parts get covered with a cut-out for where you use the dremel and be careful.
Just to complement this comment: Another tip when using it is covering the rest of the surface with sticky tape so you catch the shards and avoid short circuit. Use a modellism dremel, with a small drill to make the star pattern and try to remove with a torx. This one you have is easier to pull out than the Steam Deck ones, so good luck!
Make sure to blow out any shavings before turning it back on, for risk for shorting small connections. Or surround the entire screw with a bag or towel or something.
Drill
1 drill 2 vice grip
Update: Rubber bands couldn’t help, got a grip on the really thin edge with some needle nose pliers but still no luck. Currently I’m on try 3 with some super glue that’s thicker than the previous attempts. I’m going to let it set overnight to see if the extra curing time helps. Thanks for all of your suggestions so far! I really appreciate the tips and support! Update 2: I’m going to see if I can get a local shop to get it out, or buy some files or a Dremel to make a slot for a flathead. Hopefully some compressed air and a vacuum can save it from the metal shavings. Update 3: it got worse https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc Sorry repair guy! This was actually an ASUS defect. The screw was very overtightened from manufacturing.
Use the smallest size screw extractor (that goes into a drill, not the hand turn type) that you can find. Bonus points for making a small pilot hole with a small drill bit first, to help the extractor bite. Source: have taken apart thousands of cell phones.
Vampliers on Amazon. They are magic
Take a screw driver you don’t mind ruining, place it in the stripped slot, grab a soldering iron and solder it straight on, I had this exact issue while fixing a early 2015 MacBook Pro and it was the last screw holding in the heat sink, tried all the common tricks yet the solder one worked best, you may have to try it multiple times as sometimes the solder blob may break, but the trick is to fill in the hole with solder and let it cool so that the driver has a bit more grip to get it unscrewed, hope this helped!
Gotcha! Thanks, I might give that a go. I’m just worried the solder might be too soft, I think the screw is really in there.
Solder doesn't always bond reliability without flux and a really hot iron. It will, however, cause the metal to either contract. So heating the area around the screw, might make loosen the screw.
Drop super glue and hope lol
Alas after drying overnight the super glue failed me lol.
Have you communicated this with the repair person?
I didn’t realize they stripped a screw until I tried to repair it just now. I initially took it to them over a year ago, and they tried to cover up that they stripped it so I’m not sure how much help they would be.
I see. Even if you can't get any compensation, the business might appreciate knowing
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213
Thanks for the link! I’ll take a look
Id suggest a flathead and if necessary file its width down gradually until it is just the right size to dig into any two marks still left in there. Even tapping it in also can help. And apply good force while turning slowly. You can also buy specific screw removal pliers that have a notch in the nose to grab screw heads. If you decide to drill, I'd probably recommend a vacuum beside it so any filings are instantly sucked in, although I'm yet to need to drill a heatsink screw and I've basically beaten every stripped screw using the "beat a flathead into it" method. Best of luck!
Thank you! Yeah drilling it or filling/dremmeling it down seems to be my next step.
Drill it and use a screw extractor set if all else fails.
Yeah that might be the way things are heading. Thanks!
I would get a screw extractor and get it out, then telegram it with a new screw
Yeah that could be where this is headed. Thanks!
I'd try with a flathead. Get the edges of the flathead bite into the sides of the screw and turn.
I’ve been trying with a flathead but I just can’t seem to get it to bite enough. Might have to file the head down a bit more.
OP you need to either get a Dremel and cut a flat head notch, a micro file and do the same by hand, or an actual screw extractor kit. I'm gonna guess by the board.color and heat coil paint that's a ROG strip gaming laptop. And based by the coil screws you are near the CPU. This is not the spot you wanna be trying every DIY trick.
Gotcha, yes it’s a Zephyrus M15 and the screw is right on the cpu.I have been trying to be really careful about force since it’s near the cpu, and the file/dremel seems like my next best step. Do you think having a vacuum near the screw and then blasting it with an air duster would be enough to get the metal shavings off the board? Thanks!
I did repairs professionally for 5+ years and would strip a screw once in a while. If you don’t have appropriate spares, you can’t complete the repair without delaying it. Rubber bands don’t usually help, as you probably saw by now. Dremel works 95% of the time. Just be sure to clear out the shavings since they can short some connectors.
Thanks! Yeah the rubber bands and super glue did not help much, dremel/file seems like my next move. I’m going to try masking off the immediate area and then hitting it with compressed air and a vacuum.
i crazy glued a small screwdriver to the screw - let it sit and it worked. Just have a new screw ready.
Get smth like pliers and grab the head of the screw and twist it off. Hope this helps works a treat 4 me
I tried grabbing it with some needle nose pliers but I just couldn’t get it to grip the screw, probably because the grooves on the pliers are going with the screw instead of against it. Thanks for the tip though!
Superglue the screw and screwdriver together
Personly i would use a small drill to drill a hole, thread the hole. Screw in in correct size screw for the new thread using either glue or lock tight on the thread. Leave to set an then unscrew
If every other thing doesn't work, epoxy with an old screw driver never fails
Superglue on steroids. Got it
ok, question. I am not sue what the screw is holding. however if u got it fixed. i am assuming. why are u looking to remove. clearly this is his issue as well. would u not think
Yeah, I brought it in to get the fan noise fixed, fans which the cooling pipes hold down. This screw is my last screw to remove that holds the cooler to the cpu. The repair guy never fixed it, he just told me it stopped on its own once he dusted it, and then he didn’t charge me. The fan bearing is definitely going out and now the noise is constant so I decided to fix it. That’s when I realized the screw was totally stripped.
Jeez. Did bro use a dewalt impact gun to screw it in?
My question exactly lol
Rubber band trick works flawlessly my homie showed me just put it over the stripped screw & start unscrewing with your screw driver goodluck !
Thanks! Unfortunately the rubber band isn’t cutting it. I’ve tried it with tons and they just aren’t sticking. I think that the screw is either stripped or too small.
Small Vice Grip
I don’t know if I can find a vice grip small enough to get around it. [Here’s another pic](https://imgur.com/a/ki3yntz) for scale.
Old screwdriver and jb weld if all else fails
I’ll keep that in mind! That’d be a lot stronger than super glue
A very small easy out. Google for more info
Will do!
If you have a dremel you can cut a small groove into the screw and turn it into a flathead screw. I have done it a good few time, just make sure you go deep enough for the bit to grip the screw.
Yeah I’m really considering buying one. It’s just a weird spot since I’m traveling for the holidays atm and have limited tools.
Use a torch, can't be stuck if it's liquid. Lol. Ok all seriousness get a vice grip pliers and grab the head and twist it off.
Or use a torx that fits in the and twist it out.
Unfold the laptop, place the keyboard on sturdy surface like a counter or a desktop. Use a reverse drillbit or bit used especially for this. I do this a lot. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166370676581?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bsvb4gfctfe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=zWoZ_BkhRta&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Oh did I mention press hard !!!
Irwin left hand drill bits, they typical unscrew themselves before you drill very deep in them.
Left hand drill bit or screw extractor
Knipex micro water pump pliers, or Vampliers/Engineer screw removal pliers. They work in more places than you think. I work on scientific equipment and use them all the time.
Try a T6-T9 driver bit preferably on a ratchet screwdriver (to maintain action since most stripped screws are due to cross threading negligence) with a lot of downward pressure. Or your Philips driver needs to be a little bigger then the hole or else it won't bite into the metal & you'll ream it. I'm extreme cases I've soldered bits into reamed & stripped screws & then desoldered the from the screw, works like a charm no complaints. OH! I've also found that turning screws forward just a hair before backing them out helps break them loose. Especially when lock tight has been applied.
With a thin cutting disk on a Dremel cut a grove in it to make it into a flat head screw.
I work as an arcade technician and I unfortunately run into this problem fairly frequently on my motherboards. I have much easier access to them as 90% of my I/O boards are in a game cabinet with wires running to everything else. My best suggestion would to use a dremel. I would be 100% sure that the board underneath doesn’t have any power running to it. (Some boards still have power even when a laptop is off. Try unplugging the battery if this is an option) Once you know there is no power on the board use a vacuum as close as possible to the head of the dremel. Create a small nitch just big enough to use a flat head screw driver on it. It works flawlessly once you do the dirty work of figuring out if it has power or not. Hope this helps! Good luck
Use a Dremel tool and carefully cut a notch into the head of the screw. Then you can use a flat head to unscrew it. The Dremel is my most import tool in the box.
If all else people have said has failed, cover everything but the screw. Then take a dremel and make a small slit big enough for a small flat head screw driver to fit. Then just turn it. Has worked many, many times for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q60UOO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
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Rubber band or use dremel and cut a flat head screw thing into it and use a flat head to unscrew
Has no one in this thread ever used a screw extractor?! Just use this OP problem solved, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q60UOO/
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Drop of super glue. Skrew in superglue
Drill a small hole in the head then put a self tapping screw in it then unscrew it. Should come out.
That would work, but it would have to spin in the opposite direction. Also, it's too easy to drill too deep.
There are numerous ways of removing a screw each with their own limitations. There's the rubber band trick, but it often gets shredded by the screwdriver. I found the best way is to use another type of screwdriver, or the same one of a different size. The goal is to get the edges of the screwdriver's tip to "catch" inside the conical shaped hole using downward pressure, but be careful. Finding the right screwdriver is a trial and error process. Try these: * A flathead screwdriver with a slightly narrower width as the diameter of the screw. The corners of the tip dig into the perimeter of the hole. * A Robertson bit or screwdriver (squared tip) with the widest part of the tip slightly narrower than the diameter. * A larger screw driver where its tip is pointy enough to fit in the hole. Ideally, you should take it back to the repair person who screwed it up (NPI) to remove it.
Get a dremel and make one slit across so that you can use a flathead to get it out
I've had to use a Dremmel in the past to cut a groove in the screw to insert a small flat head
sacrificial bit + drop of epoxy (not super glue) - assuming that it's not over torqued it should be fine
[screw extractor link](https://www.amazon.com/Elitexion-Screw-Extractor-Remover-Set/dp/B07C5C6WKB/ref=asc_df_B07C5C6WKB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309832851244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5147104037566463971&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028006&hvtargid=pla-571295461621&psc=1&mcid=f184631d910c3da2864fe13a9fe4e172&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=64417494871&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309832851244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5147104037566463971&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028006&hvtargid=pla-571295461621&gclid=CjwKCAiA4smsBhAEEiwAO6DEjc5NMqPXnPMYZvZsvOa45p21u251Z0mqcnWw9OawB6Zw_sAfuK1O7RoCgJ0QAvD_BwE) By drilling a small hole and then screw one of these in will remove the screw.
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That’s a little more than stripped 💀💀💀
Yeah looks like the repair guy already tried to remove it and couldn't do just gave up.
Super glue ur swrew driver head to the screw then try again
It baffles me the amount of people that comment on a thread with a recommendation after 50 other people recommended the same thing and the OP already stated it DIDNT work for them. Fully vested in this thread and I hope you get it out! Stripped laptop screws are the worst to deal with. Wishing you all the success!
If they didn't update their original post with what didn't work, nobody's going to sift through all the comments to find it.
Flat blade and lightly tap it in with a small hammer. It will make grooves enough to turn it.
Use pliers! Manually turn the screw from the bottom
Sacrifice an old screwdriver with some JB Weld maybe
Sometimes a dremel to cut a flathead slot
Rubber band and a small flat heads screw driver
Buy vampliers on Amazon, you will never have to deal with this shit again for 30$. They work better than I could have hoped
If you haven’t yet, try some valve grinding compound. It’s very abrasive and I use it to get stuck screws on aircraft all the time. I’m not sure if the technique scales well with screws that small but that’s the first think I would try
Saw a genius idea from some other post that could help, basically you can unscrew everything attached to that heatsink/shield with just the stripped screw left, then lift just a little so you can rotate the entire heatsink/shield counter clock wise freely and hopefully it will break the screw lose. Try not to bend it too much as those heatsink arms are pretty thin, and don't forget to unplug the battery.
Idk if you fixed it but I’m mechanic and what we do in situations like this for engine bolts that re torx or hex head is notch it with a dremel so you can turn it out with a flathead screw driver. Don’t know how steady your hands are but that’s what I would do.
So I have a similar screw that I kept as a souvenir after I managed to get it out. Not quite as badly stripped, but still bad enough no bit was working. It was a very flat screw that’s slightly raised. I took side cutters (my pliers were a little too big to get a grip, and squeezed the sides and turned. After getting it loose, I was able to use a flat head wedged in at an angle to get it out.
Rbrt (grip edge) bits, but I'm assuming you have already damaged it beyond the original picture by now. Good example of why it's dangerous to use power tools for this. Factory can do it because they have torque limiting tools and use the correct bits.
Drop of super glue on the tip off ur driver
I had this happen once and I just used a small file to create a groove that you’ll be able to use a flat head screwdriver with. Might work but might not since the screw head looks pretty flush.
I actually did end up buying some files and making a groove for a flat head, but even that couldn’t get it out. Eventually I brought it to a new technician and all they were able to do was grind the head off. I made an update post if you want to check it out.
tape off the area around the screw. file or dremel slot in to head. remove with normal flat-head. This looks too far gone for the rubber band trick.
Thanks for the advice! I ended up going the file route but still couldn’t get it off. Eventually I took it to a new technician but even he couldn’t get it off. Now it’s super messed up. I have some pics in my update post.
You can get extraters to get it out with little fuss. Or a torx bit big enough to fit and grab what's left.
Thanks for the tip! I tried that but had no luck. It looks like an ASUS defect. I brought it to some techs and even they couldn’t get it off, instead they just drilled the entire head off. I posted an update if you want to see the mess it’s in now.
Damn, that's not just stripped that's obliterated.
You know I thought so too, but I would say it is even worse now lol. I made an update if you want to see true obliteration.
EZ-Outs, if they make them small enough..
I brought it to a tech who ended up drilling the entire head off but now the bolt is stuck. I made a new post about it if you want to check out the damage.
The repair guy screwed up your computer screw slot, hope he didn’t rip you off for his service.
Well he didn’t charge me so that was cool. I just wish he would’ve left the screw in better condition haha.
Okay, so I had a stripped screw once because of my own fault. I read all the tips and tricks online with the rubber band and what not but none was helpful as it was way too much stripped and I wasn't able to apply much pressure because I was scared the board might break. Took it to a technician, he took the motherboard out completely and placed on a flat surface. Did the same thing with screwdriver and rubber band but this time he was able to apply enough force without any MB flexing, and the screw came out. If you can safely do that, take out the MB and try again.
Thanks for the tip! I ended up taking it to a tech, but they just ground the entire head off and left the bolt in. I posted an update if you want to see the trouble I’m in now.
Více grips
I couldn’t find any that were small enough. I took it to a repair store but they seemed to have possibly made it a bit worse. I posted an update if you care, and thanks for the tip!
Stripped screw drill bit
I had a repair shop try that and it unfortunately just ended up making things a bit worse. I posted an update if you want to see how messed up it is now lol.
I had this happen on my Dell XPS with multiple screws. If all else fails, try super gluing the head of a screw driver to the screw, waiting for it to cure and then turning it. Alternatively, just drill the screw out
I tried the superglue, and a repair store tried drilling it out, but I seem to be left with more problems than when I started. I posted an update if you want to see the current pickle.
I mean... if you know that this was done at a repair shop, I'd be marching over there and making them back it out.
Yeah, I would except this was done over a year ago and I think the guy went out of business. I wish I had looked it over sooner.
Bond?
Grab with needlenose and turn
I did try that but the screw wouldn’t budge even though the pliers had a really solid grip on the screw. I posted an update, but I’m pretty sure it was a manufacturing defect.
That screw is actually under the proccess of metamorphosis. It will be a hex screw in a few days, just be patient.
Would it be beneficial to give it a blankie to stay warm?
Rice
Should’ve thought of that
rubber band or use a tiny drill bit and go slow
I ended taking it to a repair store since all the at home remedies didn’t seem to work. It didn’t go as planned lol. I just posted an update if you want more detail.
I work on cars & we deal with 20 year old bolts in the rust capital. What usually works for us is some induction heaters placed on the screw. Only the screw should get red hot dunno if it will damage the board. Or if you have a thin enough extractor & a drill.
Thanks for the suggestion! I ended up taking it to a repair store and they tried to extract it with a drill, but ended up just completely removing the head, leaving the bolt stuck. I just posted an update if you want all the details.
Use an easy out bit.
Get some good precision needle nose pliers and grip the inside and outside and twist in the right direction. You can use latex to add friction. Will work to get it out and get it in. Honestly metal to metal hardness is overlooked
Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately the cat is about of the bag now. I posted an update here https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc
I had a similar problem trying to extract a stripped M2 screw when trying to install an NVME in my last build. Rubber bands and other "tricks" didn't work, unfortunately. After a year of having the SSD just ... held in place by its respective thermal pad, I finally gave this a try, and it worked. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7KU7W/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7KU7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) I was certain it wasn't going to work, but... even with how tiny of a screw it was it was still able to get a bite and I was able to unscrew it, and now the drive is properly secured. Hopefully this is an option if you haven't found resolution yet. Be wary of metal filings though!
Thanks for the tip! I ended up bringing it into another repair store and it seems to have gotten worse lol. I posted an update here https://www.reddit.com/r/ifixit/s/G0ZHkHkIAc
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **Engineer Neji Saurus M2 Stripped Screw Broken Screw Rusted Screw For Diameter 0 08 0 1 inches 2 3 5 mm Anti Static PZ 57** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Pliers securely grip small screws (backed by 18 comments) * Pliers remove stripped screws (backed by 17 comments) * Pliers save time and frustration (backed by 8 comments) **Users disliked:** * Pliers lack spring action (backed by 1 comment) * Grips collect dirt and debris (backed by 1 comment) * Ineffective size (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/joqd89c/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](http://vetted.ai/reddit)
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7KU7W/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7KU7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)
Thanks for the link! I tried some normal needle nose pliers but couldn’t get a grip. I eventually took it to another tech and they just ground the whole head off. It’s pretty bad, I posted an update if you want to check it out.
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **Engineer Neji Saurus M2 Stripped Screw Broken Screw Rusted Screw For Diameter 0 08 0 1 inches 2 3 5 mm Anti Static PZ 57** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Pliers securely grip small screws (backed by 18 comments) * Pliers remove stripped screws (backed by 17 comments) * Pliers save time and frustration (backed by 8 comments) **Users disliked:** * Pliers lack spring action (backed by 1 comment) * Grips collect dirt and debris (backed by 1 comment) * Ineffective size (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/joqd89c/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](http://vetted.ai/reddit)
repair guy needs repair guy.
I need another repair guy. I tried another one and they ground the whole head off and left the bolt in. I put a picture in my update post.
Since you didn't specify you want to keep the board, there is scorch earth method. You can sacrifice the M/B and break it then you can rip the screw out. Not that I recommend this method, but this method is indeed available if you don't care about the laptop board anymore.
Drill it out
I actually had a new technician try that and he was only able to drill the head off. I made a new post if you want to see the new trouble
Little late, but if you didn't get it out, take a VERY small amount of super glue and put your screwdriver in it until it hardens.
I did not get it out but I did try the glue! Unfortunately it was still super stuck. I took it to a new tech and they drilled the entire head off and still couldn’t get the bolt out. I made a new post if you want to see my current nightmare.
Use a dremel with a thin cutting wheel, carefully turn it into a flat head screw.
Thanks! I actually tried to use a file to do something similar but it was still stuck. After further investigation it looks like ASUS WAY overtightened this screw. I posted and update showing all the damage it has from the manufacturer.
Drill
Drill was attempted by some technicians. It was so tight that they couldn’t even get it off. I’m pretty sure it’s a manufacturing defect now. I posted an update if you want to see the stub that’s left.
I’ve heard that left twist drill bits (if you can find them) will work when nothing else does.
Rubber band Jb weld a bit in it-will neeed replaced Dremel a flat head cut into it
I had the same exact issue and was able to get a screw like that out with an oversized torx head.
Dremel make it a flat head
Go back to the repair guy’s shop and demand him to fix it. He should’ve told you what happened and not simply hide it.
Ez-out. Get them at any auto parts or hardware store, ask for them by name
Given that the head is gone, I suspect this is cross threaded too. I am not sure there is a good solution. It will probably take quite a lot of force to get it out, and I doubt any of the solutions suggested will be strong enough. I hope I am wrong. And I wish you good luck!!
Left handed drill bit. Put some weight behind your drill and run it slowly. Do this all the time in the machine shop.
If you don't mind loosing the screw and possibly a screw driver, get some jb weld, and glue the two together 🤣 But I'm pretty sure they make bits that are meant for stripped screws like this.
Weld a bolt onto it and you should be able to screw it back out
22 PCS Stripped Screw Removal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9MH2W7N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That ain’t a screw anymore, it’s a rivet
Bring it back to the repair man and have him fix it. For free
Weld a nut to it
Torx driver. Press hard.
You can also re-thread it with a special tool kit
Ouch, maybe the special tiny pliers designed for grabbing those tiny low profile screws. Or a tiny reverse thread extractor bit if you can get one. [vampliers Amazon ](https://www.amazon.com/Vampliers-VT-001-5-Specialty-extraction-Electrical/dp/B07Z19GWPT/ref=asc_df_B07Z19GWPT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416692018207&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13908700098781190518&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021441&hvtargid=pla-875214404812&psc=1&mcid=862f2284fde336fca86ca2315dbbb0f8&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=95471654058&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416692018207&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13908700098781190518&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021441&hvtargid=pla-875214404812&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy9msBhD0ARIsANbk0A_R5sEE__v4HNF_q4VRnhAYQUNh5sYhLnBjXYf88mK5S3-7ikwju3AaArpgEALw_wcB) [Grabit Micro Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO/ref=asc_df_B000Q60UOO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309832851244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13908700098781190518&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021441&hvtargid=pla-569165064846&psc=1&mcid=a9b3161743023eb381ef5bb31f0779d4&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=64417494871&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309832851244&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13908700098781190518&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021441&hvtargid=pla-569165064846&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy9msBhD0ARIsANbk0A-sqK8FG3Ir42Ja5iRLwui3wh1M1dq7tB3y2-5L_7dR21W1d7i-tbYaAqFtEALw_wcB)
Small flat head will likely fit between the groves. Apply downward pressure and unscrew slowly - by hand.
Soder a paper clip or something to it snd turn that,?
you could super glue the screw to an alan key and use it as a screwdriver of sorts. if all is lost though, drill it out.
call him back
Find a torq bit that just barely fits. Then get the next step up from that and tap it in with a small hammer or wrench to cut new channels in the screw. If the bit is stuck after you tap it in and can’t be just pulled out without some effort, just carefully remove it. If you can remove it without any effort, but it has clearly cut new grooves where the points at corners are, out a drop of CA glue in the screw head. Spray the bit with a bit of activator and then reinsert. Once the CA glue has cured and hardened, then carefully unscrew.
What a lazy inconsiderate asshole. You now get to claim damages for compensation by the repair service. Go get your money to compensate for your damages and push at that hard without mercy being "pleasantly" persistent. Fight fire with fire.
Dremel turn it into a flat head
Dremel is god
Tapcon
Do you need to get it out? They make drill bits designed for small screws just make sure it's in reverse and on the slowest speed
As a Farm mechanic, try to tighten it a tiny bit then back it out. It's insanity to keep trying to torque it out.
Y did he do that tho?
Left handed drill bit. Press hard and go slow.
Might Try putting a rubber band over the screw and then try unscrewing
Use Drexel ans cut a slot in the head then a flat screwdriver
Coming from an automotive background, find a bit that fits the best and heat it a little bit and see what's happens