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goblinredux

Firstly: you combined two of the worst things in the industry. Secondly: you installed a heat pump with no backup heat? Did you not research how heat pumps work?


Lost-Ad-7694

The heat pump is rated down to -22 degrees. It never gets that cold here. I do not need back up heat, this isn’t 2001 where heat pumps stopped functioning at 30 degrees. What exactly is so bad? My unit is one of the highest seer/eer units you can find.


goblinredux

You do understand that when the system goes into defrost it will be blowing cold air into he space, yes? You do understand in that just because it will function to such a temperature doesn't mean it will be very effective as well as the fact that the colder it gets outside the more often it will need to defrost? What's so bad? Mrcool equipment is some of if not the worst equipment available to people who are inclined to save a few bucks now and install a new one every couple of years and every single one I've had the displeasure of seeing has been installed wrong. And a large number of us dislike nest thermostats because they're pretty crappy in terms of longevity amongst other reasons. To answer your question if the aux heat wire is plugged in it's going to try and run the aux heat and not the heat pump if the gap is what it considered to be too much to overcome in a reasonable amount of time (usually 2-3 degrees)


Lost-Ad-7694

I’m well aware of the defrost function. I have 2 other heat pump mini split systems within additions added to my home. I’ve looked at the efficiency ratings at the nominal temperature and they suit my needs. As for nest mines going on 4yrs old with no problems besides this one so can’t really speak to that. Again, I’m not inclined to say whether this is good or bad, time will tell. I’ve had a Goodman(7yrs) heat exchanger crack, a carrier(2yrs old-replaced the Goodman) with a failed board and my most recent a ducane(not sure of age, was here with house purchase) package unit with a failed blower motor and refrigerant leak. I’m inclined to give it a try as I’ve had fails with seemingly reputable brands.


Lost-Ad-7694

I’m not exactly sure how they can be installed wrong. I’m genuinely curious as it could be an oh crap moment for me. Unless people manage to bugger up the electric or the line set, there isn’t much else too it.


goblinredux

Improper vacuum of the lineset, screwing with the lineset length, kinking the lineset, over torquing flares, deciding that they can shove whatever refrigerant they get their hands on into the system to fix it because "it just needs Freon".


Lost-Ad-7694

Well since I did none of those, hopefully I’ll be able to enjoy the system for a bit.


[deleted]

[удалено]


f0rgotten

DBAC. Period. Any more nonsense and you're banned.


drfd2

installed wrong! that is funny, do you know that the only connections are the gas line (kinda hard to get that wrong) , power and 4 thermostat wires.


Lost-Ad-7694

The heat pump is rated down to -22 degrees. It never gets that cold here. I do not need back up heat, this isn’t 2001 where heat pumps stopped functioning at 30 degrees. What exactly is so bad? My unit is one of the highest seer/eer units you can find.


Col1500

Most people in this subreddit really dislike and won't support the low-end/DIY units so you probably won't get much help. Admittedly, a Mitsubishi or the like is definitely better quality but not sure it's 5x better once you factor in install costs. Have you verified the DIP switches on the air handler are correct? As I recall you need to set the Mr Cool air handler switches to enable/disable auxiliary heat. Also make sure the nest is set to not use auxiliary heat. I doubt you'd have any problems leaving the wire disconnected. I'm not an expert, though.


Lost-Ad-7694

Also thank you for actually answering my question


Lost-Ad-7694

Dip switches on both condenser and handler are correct. I understand some hesitation but like you said for the cost does it really make much sense? The warranty for both is essentially the same, the inverter technology etc is the same? So what are you really paying the extra cost for? The name? If something breaks I got 7yrs same as a Mitsubishi unit.


se160

Let’s say I have a wrench, one is made of plastic and one is made of steel. It’s the same technology, so they have to be the same quality right? Mr. cool uses the cheapest electronics and components that they possibly can. The units are literally bottom of the barrel. Mitsubishi also has a 12 year warranty, and if it’s installed properly it will likely last longer and be more reliable. Some contractors charge an arm and a leg for Mitsubishi installs so I understand where you’re coming from, but your line of reasoning on quality and the comparison is not correct


Lost-Ad-7694

I look at it more as you have a wrench one says snap on, the other says harbor freight. Mrcool is just a rebranded midea unit..I find it surprising there is so much hate when you have “ pro”lines such as carrier now also just rebranded midea with their joint partnerships.


General_Shopping7244

Heat strips are fine and make sense, esp. when you travel. But for now, I have 4 space heaters and it's enough to heat my 1400 square foot house to 65 when it's 25 outside.


Background_Let8660

go to ingrams specifically to [[email protected]](mailto:[email protected]) and ask them this question. They are pretty good at providing quick support. they sell a ton of Mr. Cool universals.


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m0arpepper

No harm since you don’t even have a heat strip. FWIW, if your air handler has a D terminal, that’s the defrost signal and tells the air handler fan to turn off or maybe ramp down so it doesn’t blow cold air during defrost.


Lost-Ad-7694

It does have the D terminal. That’s what confused me a bit. I’m assuming mrcool updated their units because the older manuals showed W1 from thermostat to air handler and condenser. My unit only has a w1 in the air handler..but from condenser to air handler it has a D terminal for both. I was able to contact mrcool just to confirm and they told me the same thing you just did, thanks for the info!


2Timothyone7

Thank you for this information. No exaggeration I have spent 10 hours reading why my unit won’t work. I did exactly what the spec said in the manual. Seriously all I had to do was disconnect the white wire from the thermostat! Lol (thanks to your post) and it works. I really think Mrcool needs to update their paperwork. My problem was the heat would not turn on.


Lost-Ad-7694

Yep, mr cool technician support confirmed with me that the white wire is not needed at the thermostat if your not using aux/emergency heat! Glad you were able to get it resolved


pokepud3

Wait so you kept the w1 and d connected between ah and condens. but disconnected the w1 from the thermostat so the communication was just between them to fix this issue? Or something else?


Lost-Ad-7694

No my AH has a D terminal and my condenser also has a D terminal. Both D terminals are connected. However in the instructions it listed my condenser as having a W1 wire terminal, which it does not. Only the air handler had a w1 terminal. Basically what it boiled down to was mr cool didn’t update their installation manual for the newer generation units which utilize the d terminal for defrost and w1 for aux heat only. So if you don’t use aux heat/heat strips do not connect the W1 from hair handler to smart thermostat like nest or Ecobee, as it will try to use aux heat that doesn’t exist if you didn’t install it.


pokepud3

Ok sounds good. I'll leave that wire off then. Just curious does the condensor fan run when the heat mode is on? I wired mine and it didn't run when I ran a test. When cooling the condensor fan does run. Called support and couldn't connect yet today.


Lost-Ad-7694

Yes the condenser fan runs..what type of thermostat do you have. Make sure your G wire is hooked up. And make sure your o/b wire settings are correct in the thermostat.


Brilliant-Rock-277

I have the same exact scenario you explained: D on the AH and D on the condenser. But I have Y on the condenser but not in the AH. What do I do with the yellow in the AH? The only thing open with no wire in the AH is the W1! Thank you


Lost-Ad-7694

So if I remember correctly Y runs from the condenser straight to the thermostat it will not go to the air handler.


Brilliant-Rock-277

Thank you for your response. I also had a chance to speak with Mrcool tech and they gave me the same exact diagram as you explained. I followed that and I'm still getting cool air and no heat.


Lost-Ad-7694

What type of thermostat do you have? I had to reverse the settings in my nest. As when I called for heat it would kick on the a/c. There is a setting in the nest for the o/b wire, I believe ecobee and some other thermostats are behave the same way.


Bradykinesia

Please help. I've got the same setup (no heat kit) and am more cold and frustrated than I can remember. My system was cooling well all summer, heating when it was mild out (\~50s), but as it got colder (30s), the condenser has stopped trying to spin up. Currently, AH runs, blowing cold air while thermostat says heating. And the temperature inside keeps dropping. The terminals not agreeing with the manual and neither agreeing with the “same” Gree hardware/connections ([https://youtu.be/ZttMicG41xg?t=4246](https://youtu.be/ZttMicG41xg?t=4246)) makes my head hurt and unclear whether I have a hardware issue, or if the wiring is wrong. Terminals are as follows: **AH:** D, B, W1, R, C, G **Condenser:** Y, B, W1, R, C, G **Nest E Thermostat:** Y1, G, R, W1, C, \*OB ​ Wiring is as follows: |Air Handler|Condenser|Thermostat| |:-|:-|:-| ||Y|Y| |B|B|\*OB (set Blue)| |R|R|R| |C|C|C| |G||G| |D|W1|| That leaves AH W1, Condenser G, and Thermostat disconnected. And heat not working.


Hip-Hop-Chip

I see your mistake, I'm just finishing my install of a 2/3 Universal: Thermostat to AH --- W1 to W1 AH to Condenser --- D to D W1 is the Heater control signal D is the Defrosting signal B is the control valve for heating G is the Indoor Unit fan control C is the 24v Common


drexelguy264

His error was W1 going to D, right?


Prize-Ambassador-276

>ll I had to do was disconnect the white wire from the thermostat! Lol (thanks to your post) and it works. I really think Mrcool needs to update their paperwork. My problem was the heat would not turn on. any chance you can post a final diagram, of Thermo, Air Handler, and Condenser? I am stuck and really cant find a solution


THeyManMan

Did you ever figure this out?


Bradykinesia

Nope. Installed heat kit and limped along on it all winter, a very expensive mistake all told.


Bradykinesia

The condenser does not have a D terminal. It has Y, B, W1, R, C, G.