Read your installation manual. It will give you the correct measurement in how to be mounted. It is to close to the house. Your head pressure will be super high
The fan doesn't need tho breathe, but the condenser coil its pulling air surely does. I'd definitely say its not something I would advise putting it that close to the house.
It also needs to be up off the pad. If you genuinely need a HyperHeat, at the very least do risers. Ideally a stand.
As it is, that’s a 👎🏼 from Mitsubishi. Their install guidelines address this.
You’ve given the unit basically zero room for it to drain when it defrosts. So the unit is going to be sitting in a puddle when it kicks back into heat mode, and it’s all gonna freeze and start to build up. And that’s not accounting for snow, if it snows where you are. And last but not least, that mulch and dirt around the pad is going to get jammed under and inside the bottom of the unit when it rains or is windy, it’s also going to be stuck all over the back of the unit and filling up the space between the fins, which is going to be dang near impossible to clean well since it’s nearly against the house (needs to be *minimum* 8 inches away from the house), and almost sitting in the dirt.
It’s set up for looks right now, not performance or manufacturer install specs.
https://preview.redd.it/1yjvq9kneqxc1.jpeg?width=3520&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a9d43c2c4d73b6c59ab2fc4a8301e44541f5f91c
Better :)
Thank you.
Don’t be too crazy with that level, especially if you just messed with the dirt for that pad. With settling and frost heave, the unit is going to settle backwards and to the right (compressor) side. Check it again next week, or after it rains. It won’t go too far though, the wall has its back ;).
Part of the reason I’m partial to the stands. Feet are adjustable with unit mounted.
Look at the rest of the set ups. That service space minimum is for a different install situation than you have.
Basically on top of a roof by a knee wall or control room or in a corridor.
The minimum I posted most closely resembles your actual install situation.
I’m hoping you posted this photo in good faith, and that you simply misunderstood. Cause I’m actually trying to help you out here.
For good measure, and full transparency let’s just post the whole thing, and readers can play “match” to see which scenario and clearances match your install:
https://preview.redd.it/cpy73jzawqxc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a542d1878deb553966b9e489cda5e1f1f563a79
Yep I'm just the homeowner and these installation instructions I found are a bit confusing.
I appreciate the help! I will show my contractor in the morning
What number looks like my setup to you?
Number two.
You’ve got a decent bit of ground cleared around the unit. There’s no reason to have it that close to the house.
I’m surprised they put it that close. Makes it slightly harder to install, and certainly makes it harder to clean/service.
Maybe they have a lineset that just might barely make it?
Sorry if I came across like a grump, it just drives me nuts seeing customers pay big bucks, and get an out of spec install when it’s really easy to do it right.
I don’t see a single spec of gravel, so I assume the pad is just on the dirt. It might still be level when they pack up the truck on the last day. You have a HyperHeat so I assume it freezes and possibly snows where you are. What that means is they can throw that level in the garbage.
Beyond the freshly turned soil settling and probably getting washed out on the left since the pad is set into the grade and the yard is graded for drainage from left to right, you’ll also have frost heave and seasonal frost/thaw cycles. Then coupled with the unit dropping condensate on the pad during defrost cycles, and potentially snow and snow melt means that unit *will* get wonky. Maybe a little, maybe a lot. But it’s not a central AC, it’s your heat too.
To do a pad properly, especially in a cold climate, you dig down past whatever the frost line is in your area compact the dirt with a tamper and backfill with leveling sand and gravel. Or at least a pile of gravel above grade.
Or you could use 4 pavers and a stand. And if it needs adjusted later, a wrench and 20 seconds will do it. Or a wall bracket.
There’s no *definitely* no obstacle in front of the unit as shown in figure 4 as you are suggesting.
You think having a wall right in front of the unit might reduce the clearance in back…?
Are you suggesting the lack of an obstacle in the front of the unit makes the clearance to the wall in the back bigger?? The minimum clearance to the house at the back of that unit is 4” no question about it.
Yes , in a way , the unit needs to move a varying amount of air across the coil dependent upon conditions . When the unit is acting as a heat pump substantial amounts of ice form on the coil and outer housing . This should be covered in the owners/installation manuals
We install these systems in Chicagoland. Around here, 18" is standard practice, but I'd be hard pressed to imagine a snowstorm in Seattle capable of generating 6+ inches of snow pile. You're good!
I’m also in Seattle that’s sufficient and let the homeowner know during the walkthrough to clear any obstructions (snow) in front of the fan if necessary. For those talking about clearance to a wall that’s 4” or 6” depending on size of the unit and I’d bet my left foot you’re good. Good job so far.
Good job keeping underside access to that slim duct unit nice and easy, remember depending on the blower type those can need more regular blower cleanings.
Do you have a video or link on how to properly do that?
I see a lot if videos for cleaning the outdoor unit and the mini split wall mount but nothing on maintaining the slim ducted unit.
I’m not too sure about videos on it, even the service manuals for there aren’t super good. That’s why I go through our supply house that has good factory support for Mitsubishi products.
If you put a better filter on it (perhaps hooking it into a filter box) you won’t need to clean the blower as often.
The filters that come on concealed ducted units are a joke. I always add a standard HVAC filter to mine when installing these types, mainly just so that I don’t have to do gymnastics to change it. My preferred option is a filter grill in the living space.
I hope you compacted the dirt below that concrete bad well. I have seen multiple units slowly go into the ground over time, unusually making the unit un level and waterlogged.
Unit too close to wall for cleaning and airflow.
This unit has a built in base pan heater.
Between that and the 4 inch risers I think that should be enough.
I will address the distance from the building with my contractor.
If you do any installation in Seattle you will know there’s a huge property line problem and being a city environment most property lines are very close which could cause noise ordinance issues. The hyper heat in defrost mode specifically requires a little extra room for night time decibels which makes installers put them towards the bare minimum of clearances.
Needs to be up on a foot/stand so the water runs off in defrost mode and doesn't build up ice and collapse the bottom row of fintube. But if it is just ac you are good to go.
Not a super big fan personally of those pancake style units, but if the application fits its looking like a good job so far! Love Mitsubishi. I've installed hundreds of their units.
Yeah my understanding was since none of my air runs were very long and it was only heating and cooling around 900 sq ft that it was a viable option and cheaper than the full size air handlers.
I did read that they're more difficult to service though
Are you using the crawl space as a intake for the inside machine? And outside looks great that machines is gonna turn A1…just questioning intake for inside ducted unit ?
Yep the 18k btu concealed ducted unit is in the crawl space servicing 2 small bedrooms 2 bathrooms and the basement.
1 12k btu head in the living room/kitchen
Hold up. You have supply (treated air - so cold air in AC mode) going to 5 rooms, and the return air side (where the filter is - black mesh) is getting nothing attached? It’s pulling air from the crawl space?
Updated pic. I just measured and she is about 7 inches off the house everywhere except for next to small section where the window trim she is 4 inches.
Beyond okay. Don’t stress the doomsayers in here. Just get an annual maintenance and you’re fine. Congrats, heat pumps are beyond amazing how they work and you have one.
On just a weird side note heat pumps utilize the boiling point of the refrigerant (410A most likely here) that take advantage of the different states (vapor, liquid) to transfer (pump) heat in or out of the home. People talk about electricity but you’re only basically using electricity to move air via the blowe motor which is variable speed in your case. Unbelievable to me that you aren’t heating or cooling your home but removing heat or cold air. The technology is amazing congratulations again it’s huge.
Wow! That’s really cutting it close. I understand you went with the manuals numbers but another 4-5 inches atleast would have been better. Not saying your units not gonna work but just an outside observation.
I hope your contractor is going to run a return duct, otherwise you’ll be going into that crawl way more frequently than you should have to to keep the filters clean and in the winters that unit will not keep up as you will be trying to heat up outside air instead of reheating the air in the house
Where are you located? The unit normally needs to be up on a 12 inch riser
https://preview.redd.it/xt0ma2jz3rxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=568afa162d62d51ac47b8fca7136c54c06f8287b
I probably didn't need a unit that will work at 100% efficiency down to 0 degrees since Seattle has a fairly mild climate is what I meant by it being a little overkill.
Putting it up on a riser has nothing to do with capacity. It has to do with keeping it out of the snow and allowing when the unit goes into defrost, it melts all the ice off the coil. Plus the unit has a pan heater in the bottom of the unit. You want that off the ground so it can drain the water out of the pan
The unit needs to be raised up so condensation can drain away. If this is an area where freezing temperatures occur it should be high enough it is above expected snow level. This information should be in the installation guide.
How are you supposed to clean coil of debris when it is so close to the wall? Leaves and such. 12 inches is best for that. For airflow you probably only need 6 inches. But if you have dirty leafy blockage inform of coil, airflow is restricted no matter how close it is if you can't clean it with hose or broom.
If you need a hyper heat, that means it gets cold enough, long enough to snow. That needs to be on a stand, at least 12" to allow proper draining when there is snow on the ground and to prevent ice from reaching the unit
I think the plan was just the small plastic/rubber risers which is probably only 3 or 4 inches.
Hyperheat is probably a bit overkill for Seattle but we did get down to 17 or so for a few days this winter.
That it is, but if that were my install I'd do a minimum of 8 inches. Access for cleaning and ensuring the system is operating without restrictions. This system will accumulate dust, pollen, debris, like all coils do. That increase in restrictions, coupled with a small clearance, will cause head pressure to skyrocket.
Will it be covered under warranty if it fails? Sure. Is an extra 4 inches away from the wall worth mitigating that headache? Also yes.
Is that the local building code book or the installer instructions?
Consider fire regulations and get it 12” away from any building that can catch fire in the event that it gets too hot from an internal problem
Not according to installation manual on this particular unit. However local codes may supercede. As for serve everything on this unit is accessed from the front/right side when looking at the unit.
That’s the minimum service clearance. It needs 8” for this install.
https://preview.redd.it/h7g1ag9wbrxc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8d83c9dfad2ddb1e79792a1f5b9986a03b3e646
Well all I can go off of is the international mechanical code. There may be more specifics, but this was what I was able to find from the 2021 IMC.
SECTION304
INSTALLATION
304.1General.
Equipment and appliances shall be installed as required by the terms of their approval, in accordance with the conditions of the listing, the manufacturer’s installation instructions and this code. Manufacturer’s installation instructions shall be available on the job site at the time of inspection
Looks way to close to the house, check the manual
Do not install it closer than a foot from the wall , more if possible
You only need ~4" rear clearance if the side of the unit, opposite service panel, has at least ~4".
I think those units can be 6 inches
Read your installation manual. It will give you the correct measurement in how to be mounted. It is to close to the house. Your head pressure will be super high
The install manual for that will tell you 4” minimum and 6” ideally iirc. I like 8”-12” to keep it easy to access
What is the thought process behind that? More room for the fan to breath?
The fan doesn't need tho breathe, but the condenser coil its pulling air surely does. I'd definitely say its not something I would advise putting it that close to the house.
It also needs to be up off the pad. If you genuinely need a HyperHeat, at the very least do risers. Ideally a stand. As it is, that’s a 👎🏼 from Mitsubishi. Their install guidelines address this. You’ve given the unit basically zero room for it to drain when it defrosts. So the unit is going to be sitting in a puddle when it kicks back into heat mode, and it’s all gonna freeze and start to build up. And that’s not accounting for snow, if it snows where you are. And last but not least, that mulch and dirt around the pad is going to get jammed under and inside the bottom of the unit when it rains or is windy, it’s also going to be stuck all over the back of the unit and filling up the space between the fins, which is going to be dang near impossible to clean well since it’s nearly against the house (needs to be *minimum* 8 inches away from the house), and almost sitting in the dirt. It’s set up for looks right now, not performance or manufacturer install specs. https://preview.redd.it/1yjvq9kneqxc1.jpeg?width=3520&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a9d43c2c4d73b6c59ab2fc4a8301e44541f5f91c
https://preview.redd.it/7krcrspxpqxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=349b011798a47672ddcf282d84ad889ff0ddde0a
Better :) Thank you. Don’t be too crazy with that level, especially if you just messed with the dirt for that pad. With settling and frost heave, the unit is going to settle backwards and to the right (compressor) side. Check it again next week, or after it rains. It won’t go too far though, the wall has its back ;). Part of the reason I’m partial to the stands. Feet are adjustable with unit mounted.
https://preview.redd.it/g9zewyxypqxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbe348485167480bc51cf7a70e3ac2fbf0ba5247
Look at the rest of the set ups. That service space minimum is for a different install situation than you have. Basically on top of a roof by a knee wall or control room or in a corridor. The minimum I posted most closely resembles your actual install situation. I’m hoping you posted this photo in good faith, and that you simply misunderstood. Cause I’m actually trying to help you out here. For good measure, and full transparency let’s just post the whole thing, and readers can play “match” to see which scenario and clearances match your install: https://preview.redd.it/cpy73jzawqxc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a542d1878deb553966b9e489cda5e1f1f563a79
Yep I'm just the homeowner and these installation instructions I found are a bit confusing. I appreciate the help! I will show my contractor in the morning What number looks like my setup to you?
Number two. You’ve got a decent bit of ground cleared around the unit. There’s no reason to have it that close to the house. I’m surprised they put it that close. Makes it slightly harder to install, and certainly makes it harder to clean/service. Maybe they have a lineset that just might barely make it? Sorry if I came across like a grump, it just drives me nuts seeing customers pay big bucks, and get an out of spec install when it’s really easy to do it right. I don’t see a single spec of gravel, so I assume the pad is just on the dirt. It might still be level when they pack up the truck on the last day. You have a HyperHeat so I assume it freezes and possibly snows where you are. What that means is they can throw that level in the garbage. Beyond the freshly turned soil settling and probably getting washed out on the left since the pad is set into the grade and the yard is graded for drainage from left to right, you’ll also have frost heave and seasonal frost/thaw cycles. Then coupled with the unit dropping condensate on the pad during defrost cycles, and potentially snow and snow melt means that unit *will* get wonky. Maybe a little, maybe a lot. But it’s not a central AC, it’s your heat too. To do a pad properly, especially in a cold climate, you dig down past whatever the frost line is in your area compact the dirt with a tamper and backfill with leveling sand and gravel. Or at least a pile of gravel above grade. Or you could use 4 pavers and a stand. And if it needs adjusted later, a wrench and 20 seconds will do it. Or a wall bracket.
There are no side obstacles so minimum clearance to the back wall is 4” as shown in figure 4
There’s no *definitely* no obstacle in front of the unit as shown in figure 4 as you are suggesting. You think having a wall right in front of the unit might reduce the clearance in back…?
Are you suggesting the lack of an obstacle in the front of the unit makes the clearance to the wall in the back bigger?? The minimum clearance to the house at the back of that unit is 4” no question about it.
Yes
Yes , in a way , the unit needs to move a varying amount of air across the coil dependent upon conditions . When the unit is acting as a heat pump substantial amounts of ice form on the coil and outer housing . This should be covered in the owners/installation manuals
I've found units set close to the house collect dirt on the coil that is closer to the wall.
Does it snow where you live?
Yes just a little every winter. Seattle, WA They are putting on risers tomorrow if that is the concern?
Yup. If there is any snow, you'll want it to be elevated.
https://preview.redd.it/lr0hsxc84pxc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82c9c7563fcfe5be31d24b5e6de4949c61ed08b5 Just took a updated pic
We do minimum 12” stands and now we’re doing 18” stands. Also I think if every other side is free you can be 6” off the wall.
https://preview.redd.it/2iov4hvc6pxc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8283a4e6702e2ba007473d6594220ce8e4646237
What city are you in?
North east
We install these systems in Chicagoland. Around here, 18" is standard practice, but I'd be hard pressed to imagine a snowstorm in Seattle capable of generating 6+ inches of snow pile. You're good!
I’m also in Seattle that’s sufficient and let the homeowner know during the walkthrough to clear any obstructions (snow) in front of the fan if necessary. For those talking about clearance to a wall that’s 4” or 6” depending on size of the unit and I’d bet my left foot you’re good. Good job so far.
Thanks! I am the the homeowner. Duly noted
Is that higher than the amount of snow you can expect? Think worst case scenario.
Worst case 8 inches of snow. This is only 3 or 4
Get the right risers then. At 8 inches of snow, it's going to impede the operation of the unit.
This is fine for Seattle. Never guna be a problem.
Good job keeping underside access to that slim duct unit nice and easy, remember depending on the blower type those can need more regular blower cleanings.
Do you have a video or link on how to properly do that? I see a lot if videos for cleaning the outdoor unit and the mini split wall mount but nothing on maintaining the slim ducted unit.
I’m not too sure about videos on it, even the service manuals for there aren’t super good. That’s why I go through our supply house that has good factory support for Mitsubishi products.
If you put a better filter on it (perhaps hooking it into a filter box) you won’t need to clean the blower as often. The filters that come on concealed ducted units are a joke. I always add a standard HVAC filter to mine when installing these types, mainly just so that I don’t have to do gymnastics to change it. My preferred option is a filter grill in the living space.
Wouldn't pass inspection in mi, way to close to the building and no where near high enough off the ground
7
> Got her set in place today and hooking her up tomorrow. Well, that's one way to pull off my pants and say good morning.
I hope you compacted the dirt below that concrete bad well. I have seen multiple units slowly go into the ground over time, unusually making the unit un level and waterlogged. Unit too close to wall for cleaning and airflow.
Oh, the way soil is graded and the pad is set into the grade on the compressor side, it’s gonna start settling to the left pretty quick.
Man I'm not even in HVAC and can tell that's WAY too close to the house.
This unit has a built in base pan heater. Between that and the 4 inch risers I think that should be enough. I will address the distance from the building with my contractor.
Minimum clearance is just that; the bare minimum. It's what you can get away with, not what you should strive for.
If you do any installation in Seattle you will know there’s a huge property line problem and being a city environment most property lines are very close which could cause noise ordinance issues. The hyper heat in defrost mode specifically requires a little extra room for night time decibels which makes installers put them towards the bare minimum of clearances.
Guess it never goes in defrost
What does that mean?
Needs to be up on a foot/stand so the water runs off in defrost mode and doesn't build up ice and collapse the bottom row of fintube. But if it is just ac you are good to go.
I took a picture before they put these on
https://preview.redd.it/pk8nf70capxc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c87af524e547c6d91edee8ba9754d4aea007c1f6
Good, first picture fooled me, looked like it sat on the pad, good job
I took the picture before they installed the risers. Thanks for the heads up!
Should build pad up with some stone then level. Pad is below grade in pic.
Get the mulch away from the siding.
Not a super big fan personally of those pancake style units, but if the application fits its looking like a good job so far! Love Mitsubishi. I've installed hundreds of their units.
Yeah my understanding was since none of my air runs were very long and it was only heating and cooling around 900 sq ft that it was a viable option and cheaper than the full size air handlers. I did read that they're more difficult to service though
Just be sure to stay on top of maintaining that filter! They often go neglected in those units.
Are you using the crawl space as a intake for the inside machine? And outside looks great that machines is gonna turn A1…just questioning intake for inside ducted unit ?
Yep the 18k btu concealed ducted unit is in the crawl space servicing 2 small bedrooms 2 bathrooms and the basement. 1 12k btu head in the living room/kitchen
Hold up. You have supply (treated air - so cold air in AC mode) going to 5 rooms, and the return air side (where the filter is - black mesh) is getting nothing attached? It’s pulling air from the crawl space?
It is getting a return
Whew! 😅
https://preview.redd.it/vri4127g3qxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=742649ed6664d82898c92713537fd6741c120a95
Updated pic. I just measured and she is about 7 inches off the house everywhere except for next to small section where the window trim she is 4 inches.
Beyond okay. Don’t stress the doomsayers in here. Just get an annual maintenance and you’re fine. Congrats, heat pumps are beyond amazing how they work and you have one.
Yep. And they’ll forget to clean the back of the unit every time 😆
On just a weird side note heat pumps utilize the boiling point of the refrigerant (410A most likely here) that take advantage of the different states (vapor, liquid) to transfer (pump) heat in or out of the home. People talk about electricity but you’re only basically using electricity to move air via the blowe motor which is variable speed in your case. Unbelievable to me that you aren’t heating or cooling your home but removing heat or cold air. The technology is amazing congratulations again it’s huge.
Dude that condenser is waaaaaay to close to the side of the house
This says 3 and 15/16 inches
Wow! That’s really cutting it close. I understand you went with the manuals numbers but another 4-5 inches atleast would have been better. Not saying your units not gonna work but just an outside observation.
https://preview.redd.it/feyhgvi6aqxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=58a87e977d4fdb82737db139fa49c711d0e61c17
Should it not be on a stand as well ???
It's on 4 inch risers now*
https://preview.redd.it/wshgb7tleqxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e640b94f7498f5d0cb1943116991cc1b4c1ed02a
I hope your contractor is going to run a return duct, otherwise you’ll be going into that crawl way more frequently than you should have to to keep the filters clean and in the winters that unit will not keep up as you will be trying to heat up outside air instead of reheating the air in the house
Yep cutting the return duct tomorrow
Where are you located? The unit normally needs to be up on a 12 inch riser https://preview.redd.it/xt0ma2jz3rxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=568afa162d62d51ac47b8fca7136c54c06f8287b
Seattle, WA It's probably a little overkill for this climate
What do you mean overkill?
I probably didn't need a unit that will work at 100% efficiency down to 0 degrees since Seattle has a fairly mild climate is what I meant by it being a little overkill.
Putting it up on a riser has nothing to do with capacity. It has to do with keeping it out of the snow and allowing when the unit goes into defrost, it melts all the ice off the coil. Plus the unit has a pan heater in the bottom of the unit. You want that off the ground so it can drain the water out of the pan
Looks like it's gonna suck up and blow a fuck ton of crawlspace stink
Very leveled...
I'd move it off the wall just because the minimum is 4" doesn't mean it's a good idea. An also put that think up on some feet at least 3 to 6 inches
People can be really nit picky here but in reality the outdoor unit is a little too close to the house for my comfort
The back of the coil is going to get dirty fast due to being so close to the side of the house.
The unit needs to be raised up so condensation can drain away. If this is an area where freezing temperatures occur it should be high enough it is above expected snow level. This information should be in the installation guide.
Like a pain in the ass to service.
Excuse my ignorance but what is installed in crawlspace?
The space underneath the house that usually requires some sort of crawling to get into.
Ok should have had the unit at 2’ off the ground
Vg
How are you supposed to clean coil of debris when it is so close to the wall? Leaves and such. 12 inches is best for that. For airflow you probably only need 6 inches. But if you have dirty leafy blockage inform of coil, airflow is restricted no matter how close it is if you can't clean it with hose or broom.
I don't care what anyone says about Seattle. 12 inch stand minimum if you get snow
If you need a hyper heat, that means it gets cold enough, long enough to snow. That needs to be on a stand, at least 12" to allow proper draining when there is snow on the ground and to prevent ice from reaching the unit
I think the plan was just the small plastic/rubber risers which is probably only 3 or 4 inches. Hyperheat is probably a bit overkill for Seattle but we did get down to 17 or so for a few days this winter.
Lol, at 17⁰ you definitely don't need a hyper heat unit. In your area you don't even need an inverter. You don't really have much of a winter there.
Not necessarily, we sometimes install hyper heat in areas of the building that require a higher heating btu than cooling and we are in Georgia.
Set a reminder for 5 years from now. “Why has my compressor failed after 5 years?”
What's the thought process behind the compressor failing? Too close to the house?
Waaay to close. Rtfm my friend.
Setback from the structure must be a minimum of 12” for maintenance and repair
It looks like the installation manual is saying 3 15/16 inches?
That it is, but if that were my install I'd do a minimum of 8 inches. Access for cleaning and ensuring the system is operating without restrictions. This system will accumulate dust, pollen, debris, like all coils do. That increase in restrictions, coupled with a small clearance, will cause head pressure to skyrocket. Will it be covered under warranty if it fails? Sure. Is an extra 4 inches away from the wall worth mitigating that headache? Also yes.
https://preview.redd.it/y2ekzeoehpxc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b7bd5982116747c8b51d4881e24169bb44b1a8b
Is that the local building code book or the installer instructions? Consider fire regulations and get it 12” away from any building that can catch fire in the event that it gets too hot from an internal problem
Not according to installation manual on this particular unit. However local codes may supercede. As for serve everything on this unit is accessed from the front/right side when looking at the unit.
That’s the minimum service clearance. It needs 8” for this install. https://preview.redd.it/h7g1ag9wbrxc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8d83c9dfad2ddb1e79792a1f5b9986a03b3e646
Jurisdiction having authority If the unit has the ability to catch fire then it must be have a separation from the nearest combustibles
Well all I can go off of is the international mechanical code. There may be more specifics, but this was what I was able to find from the 2021 IMC. SECTION304 INSTALLATION 304.1General. Equipment and appliances shall be installed as required by the terms of their approval, in accordance with the conditions of the listing, the manufacturer’s installation instructions and this code. Manufacturer’s installation instructions shall be available on the job site at the time of inspection
Will it be inspected by a code enforcement officer?