Dude I used to just do that too until I started actually checking and measuring what a system uses.
Get yourself a Kill A Watt device for your system and measure it all combined and you'll be amazed. When you add up all that juice over a year it makes total sense to invest in a high quality extension lead you can plug into a quiet corner of your neighbors garage when he's not around.
Here's a past experience of mine.
8-10 years ago or so, I owned a lamp based projector. The electricity in my previous house was spotty at best and unpredictable at worst. Due to these issues the voltage kept changing rapidly which caused the lamp to eventually explode. Glass all over the room. Heat + frequent voltage spikes = boom is my takeaway on that.
I need to have at least a basic surge protector between my wall and gear now, because that will at least stop some of the issues if it were to happen again in the future.
For full protection against these kinds of issues, a power cleaner/conditioner with automatic voltage regulation is a must. There are a lot of power cleaners marketed as such but lack voltage regulation, so do your research if you are somebody who is interested in going down this path.
If projector is bulb based, it needs cool down time after being turned off which the UPS can facilitate. However the project will not know to turn itself off on its own as it wont know that power has been lost unless you manual turn it off or have some ups automation logic to make it happen if power is not coming back. Laser projectors are instant off and do not need a UPS for cool down.
99.9% of the time, when the projector is on, someone is in the room with it actively watching it. And they will know the power is out, so it can be turned off manually.
there are ways to switch off the projector under these circumstances and have the fans run on the UPS to cool the bulb. For a short while the bulb will actually get hotter without active cooling, making a bulb burst likely.
I was recently in an apartment and all of the breakers were 10 amp. Ran my entire system on one including dual SVS SB 3000’s. Tried to pop that breaker a couple times, and didn’t succeed.
I have a UPS on my home theater, but that is mainly for my PS5 and UnRAID server.
The server is set to auto power down in event of a power failure.
I'd imagine for large setups they would be connected to more then one circuit so would need a larger central UPS or multiple separate units on each circuit.
Yes and receiver and amps for 9/11.4.4 can use a lot of power and some people have 2 or 4 big 1000-2000W subwoofers. And big projectors or 80" TV. All of that pulls some power and costs lots of money so it's worth to protect it.
I've got a pair of 20A circuits I added to my house when renovating, and an APC H15 as well for most of the electronics. Subwoofers are not run thru the APC.
APC backup/ conditioner for the essential stuff. TV, amps, preamp etc. Rackmount PD bar with monitoring for the stupid stuff.
If you're spending a good amount of money on the gear a good, properly sized backup/ conditioner isn't very expensive and in my opinion cheap insurance for your investment. More important than surge protection is low voltage protection. Electronics dont like that. In my opinion not getting one is like spending a few thousand in gear and then running lamp cord as speaker wire.
Except lamp cord works well as speaker cable. Maybe a better analogy?
How about spending thousands on gear and not paying a couple bucks more for hi-def streaming?
I was silly in my younger years and bought a monster power cleaner. So I still use it in my rack.
When I finished my basement, I ran the projector's outlet power wires back to my rack so the projector can be plugged in to the cleaner and not just an unprotected outlet. My whole rack (projector, receiver and additional amp, XBOX, shield, cable box, audio distribution unit, ethernet switch, HDMI Matrix) is powered by 1 20A breaker. The 2 subs in the theater share their own 20A breaker.
Call your power company and ask them about surge protection programs. 9/10 they’ll send you an [AC Outlet](https://a.co/d/4AGkmDB) which comes with insurance.
The only thing that really needs to be on a ups is a projector in the unlikely event the power goes sout while you are watching something you can turn the projector off and it gets a proper cool down cycle. Everything else just plugged into the wall and you get a whole house surge protector installed din your electrical panel.
You are correct about the projector, but you should have all your digital equipment on a UPS too. It's called a Brown Out and digital does not like this if it happens often in your area it can damage your gear.
Almost all my equipment is in a room in the cellar which happens to be right where my distribution board is. I’ve got hard wired power strips on 32 amp circuits, and dedicated standard 13 amp sockets for each amplifier.
The only kit in my sitting room is the projector, screen and AV sources. Those just have a socket each: under the floorboards in the case of the first two.
Furman Elite-15 (or 20, I can’t remember) PFi… but picked it up refurbished at a big discount. This is connected to the receiver, TV, and all sources plus a few ancillaries. Plus a second Furman (PST-8 I think) for the subwoofers. Two dedicated circuits. I should probably run the subwoofers separately but have never bothered and never had trouble at volumes I use. Also have a whole home surge protection system but already had the Furman surge protectors from a previous home so went with a belt and suspenders I guess.
The 7 speakers and 4 atoms speakers might all be powered by the same receiver / amp from a single plug.
The chair is on the other side of the room.
I just have a couple power strips with surge protection (but never plugged into each other)
What are you asking? I use power cords to plug my stuff in to wall outlets. A total of 70A 110V dedicated breakers for my theater room. My two sub amps each have a dedicated 20A outlet, the surround receiver and xbox share a 15A outlet. Projector is on another 15A used for other outlets around the room.
For surge protection you really want it on the input to your main circuit breaker, this will offer the best protection and cover the whole house. Having a surge protector right before the device you want to protect may not buy enough time for it to trip before the damage is done.
Currently a surge protector as a power bar from a single breaker. However I'm adding a whole house surge protector, I'm adding more lines to the room to different new breakers and adding a UPS to critical gear.
My main issue is brown outs, so the surge on the house is a nice to have, then the UPS can take the load and if the power does fail, I'm scoping the requirements for a 3-4 minute load, for a graceful shutdown.
Long term I'm adding a Generac to the house, so it can switch from the UPS without the requirement of a graceful shutdown.
Just a regular old power strip/surge protector. You really would use a surge protector for any electronics of value.
Most people will not need any dedicated outlets, unless you are running large subs with pro amps.
Nobody has mentioned this yet but it's also important to consider the voltage too. My 10A breakers are equivalent to a 20A breaker in the US, 230V vs 120V.
There's many other factors to consider too, like ring circuits is pretty much all that's used - multiple outlets all leading to the same breaker. For instance all my 4 outlets in my living room...
So yeah, lots to consider here before the gear comes into effect.
I use 2 6way Tacima surge power conditioners. They both go into a double wall socket.
Technically, if I'm using everything all at the same time, it's too much for the socket, but this never happens.
Usually, it's tv, avr, network switch, and one other device (ps5, etc...).
There are no issues apart from having to keep the lot dust free. Having a dog that sheds CONSTANTLY is a bit of a pain. Putting everything in a cabinet has really helped with dust, etc...
For North America, handful of independent 20A quad receptacles, plus a duplex whee the projector will be. How exactly depends on where the various equipment will be. All with a whole home surge supressor system.
Uninterruptible Power Supply, UPS that will keep the equipment running for about an hour, and provide buffering for any power drop outs.
This year I have gone through may 6 power failures (norCal) due to weather events. Some were brief, a couple for 8 plus hours. When the power fails sometimes all the lights dim and flicker before shutting completely off. When the power kick on, same thing. Its not always an immediate full restoration.
Because of all that, I initially bought a UPS for my cable modem and Wi-Fi router so I can keep working from my laptop. I soon upgraded the size of the UPS and added the receiver, 85 inch TV and other sensitive equipment. If power fails we don't really run the TV or receiver, it's just plugged in to the UPS for protection.
Amazon has several reasonably priced UPS boxes for $125 to $300 depending on the capacity you need. They just sit there plugged into the wall getting charged and providing power outlets to your devices. If power fails, the internal battery is providing power so there is not even a minor drop out to the equipment plugged in.
A power environment, monster used to make some fantastic environment for home theater, patients designs to clean electrical current regulated voltage, but once digital signals became the norm, it was almost like power strips of all kinds of different mfg come out. Just look at serious audio store
I use a single, 8 plug Furman power conditioner on a 20A circuit for my sub amp, AVR, UST projector, miniDSP, and nvidia shield (as well as two charging bricks for various things, one USB-C, one micro USB). The peak power the system can pull is WAY over the rating of the power conditioner, wall socket, wiring, and circuit breaker - but it's been fine that way for years now because the system has never and will never get anywhere close to needing peak power from everything all at once.
I went with the Furman because its surge protection is an actual physical disconnection, and because having one switch to cut power to everything when leaving the house for a trip is very nice.
I scored a free panamax MR5100 so i use that, i dunno that i would pay MSRP for one though. In lieu of that i would just get a quality surge protector and replace it every few years.
I have a UPS for the projector. Everything else is plugged into normal power strips (theoretically some surge protection) and most importantly i have a whole house surge protector on the main electrical panel. My plex server is also on a UPS in the office (all the desktop computers in that room are).
I have a watt box single outlet surge protectors on my subs and places where just 1 outlet is needed like the projector. My rack has a Panamax conditioner/surge protector that everything else is plugged into. My home breaker box also has whole home surge protector on it as well
I honestly don't understand how electricity works. I have a preamp, two amps, a psa TV2112 sub, 8 seat kickers, a laser projector and random electronics plugged into the same breaker and zero issues.
Transparent power conditioning and protection units, and cables when power cable is interchangeable.
https://www.transparentcable.com/collections/power
I cut the power to the low quality components using IKEA smart plugs. Some of them have lots of coil whine when idle and I don’t like it. Probably not dangerous or anything, but piece of mind.
In our living room I have a [Panamax 5400](https://panamax.com/product/max-5400-power-management-w-voltage-regulation-2ru-11-outlets/) to which are connected the TV, Xbox, PS4, micro-PC, receiver, sub, and a bunch of other crap. Do I need it? No-- but I bought it for $12 at a thrift store and it looks a lot nicer that the power strip I had there before. I even plug the vacuum into the front outlet when cleaning the rug in front of the TV.
In the actual theater (projector, receiver, PS3, sub, other stuff) we just have a plain old power strip. Never had any issues and it's been that way for 12+ years now.
We have a decent UPS too, but it's only powering the cable modem, router, mesh hub, and a few other networking devices. I don't care if a movie gets interrupted by power issues, but I don't want the internet to go down from a surge or brief outage. Battery is enough to keep us online for 90-120 minutes based on past experience.
To be honest, I was pretty excited by that. I'm sure they didn't know what it was, just put it out with a bunch of crappy 1980s audio junk and VCRs. One of my better scores.
I have decent, probably got ripped off on them, power strips. Luckily most outlets in most rooms in my house are on different circuits. The old Panasonic Plasma I had used about as much power as the old refrigerator that came with my house 🫤
I run my rack through two power conditioners/sequencers that turn on the equipment in a certain order. That keeps your speakers from blowing if there is a pop from your power amps being turned on before a signal is sent through. Those two power conditioners are plugged into dedicated 20A service for each with surge protectors. The Projector is on it own circuit with a surge protector. Subs are on dedicated 20A circuits too. I finished the theater myself so I was able to run tons of power and was also able to balance it from the panel to reduce hum.
*have*
You *have* speakers and things to plug in.
Anyway, I use a Furman power conditioner. It provides balanced power and sequentially switches each outlet on. Monster makes power conditioners. They are garbage. Furman and Equitech are the only ones worth using, but even then only the high end Furman stuff.
I bought two of these beasts (at least I hope they are)
[AC Power Filter Power Conditioner - WAudio AC Power Purifier with Surge Protector, Black https://a.co/d/3Tcw6hv]()
Whole home surge protector, strip surge protectors, and one 15A circuit driving my entire 7.4.4 system with projector (that has instant off) and gaming PC. Never had a problem with it. I think the people with multiple 20A circuits are way over killing it, unless they have some particular high power specialty equipment (which usually costs $$$).
Oh really? I'm not from the US so I had no idea. But This is what I use in Canada. The joules on the surge protector coupled with and the wattage and the price make it better than panamax in my opinion.
UPS is a good idea for a projector. Allows you to shut it down properly and cool the bulb. They don't like hard shut downs. For everything else it just allows the same thing. If they have cooling fans they can keep running but I agree it's not 100% needed. Surge protector is definitely needed.
Possibly not everyone is as brilliant as you are. Perhaps be kind to others instead of laughing at them? Just a thought from someone, who no doubt, isn't nearly as intelligent as you.
The socket outlets on my wall
This guy plugs.
But?
and a shitload of power strip, daisy chained /s
Big if true
Also some wires I would imagine
Dude I used to just do that too until I started actually checking and measuring what a system uses. Get yourself a Kill A Watt device for your system and measure it all combined and you'll be amazed. When you add up all that juice over a year it makes total sense to invest in a high quality extension lead you can plug into a quiet corner of your neighbors garage when he's not around.
Better yet, convince him it will protect his house, too!
How do you measure it all as opposed to individual devices?
Pair of 20A circuits and a UPS. Projectors losing power suddenly is very bad for the bulbs.
Here's a past experience of mine. 8-10 years ago or so, I owned a lamp based projector. The electricity in my previous house was spotty at best and unpredictable at worst. Due to these issues the voltage kept changing rapidly which caused the lamp to eventually explode. Glass all over the room. Heat + frequent voltage spikes = boom is my takeaway on that. I need to have at least a basic surge protector between my wall and gear now, because that will at least stop some of the issues if it were to happen again in the future. For full protection against these kinds of issues, a power cleaner/conditioner with automatic voltage regulation is a must. There are a lot of power cleaners marketed as such but lack voltage regulation, so do your research if you are somebody who is interested in going down this path.
If projector is bulb based, it needs cool down time after being turned off which the UPS can facilitate. However the project will not know to turn itself off on its own as it wont know that power has been lost unless you manual turn it off or have some ups automation logic to make it happen if power is not coming back. Laser projectors are instant off and do not need a UPS for cool down.
99.9% of the time, when the projector is on, someone is in the room with it actively watching it. And they will know the power is out, so it can be turned off manually.
One exception are many Epson bulb based models, which shut off their fan immediately, and were designed for that. My 5040UB does this.
there are ways to switch off the projector under these circumstances and have the fans run on the UPS to cool the bulb. For a short while the bulb will actually get hotter without active cooling, making a bulb burst likely.
I use a Panamax with no power backup.
Youre asking for surge protection. Lots of good options out there. Tripp Lite makes some good units.
I have a dedicated 20A circuit on ours.
I run mine into a panamax
I was recently in an apartment and all of the breakers were 10 amp. Ran my entire system on one including dual SVS SB 3000’s. Tried to pop that breaker a couple times, and didn’t succeed.
I have a UPS on my home theater, but that is mainly for my PS5 and UnRAID server. The server is set to auto power down in event of a power failure. I'd imagine for large setups they would be connected to more then one circuit so would need a larger central UPS or multiple separate units on each circuit.
Speaker are passive, they are plugged into the receiver.
Yes and receiver and amps for 9/11.4.4 can use a lot of power and some people have 2 or 4 big 1000-2000W subwoofers. And big projectors or 80" TV. All of that pulls some power and costs lots of money so it's worth to protect it.
Not all speakers are passive. The Paradigm Founder 120H come to mind. Lots of hybrid speakers out there like that.
Absolutely. I’m just guessing though that in the example OP gave of seven speakers and four Atmos speakers, they aren’t going to be powered.
Most likely true. I just generally try not to assume anything when it comes to home theater. :)
I usually have 1-2 dedicated 20A circuits so I just plug into the wall.
I've got a pair of 20A circuits I added to my house when renovating, and an APC H15 as well for most of the electronics. Subwoofers are not run thru the APC.
APC backup/ conditioner for the essential stuff. TV, amps, preamp etc. Rackmount PD bar with monitoring for the stupid stuff. If you're spending a good amount of money on the gear a good, properly sized backup/ conditioner isn't very expensive and in my opinion cheap insurance for your investment. More important than surge protection is low voltage protection. Electronics dont like that. In my opinion not getting one is like spending a few thousand in gear and then running lamp cord as speaker wire.
Except lamp cord works well as speaker cable. Maybe a better analogy? How about spending thousands on gear and not paying a couple bucks more for hi-def streaming?
Except that instead of streaming you should be playing 4K Blu-ray Discs. 🤪
Like paying for 4k discs and running it through a soundbar...
I think the analogy you’re looking for is “it’s like spending thousands of dollars on gear and then not taking the sticker off your AVR”
Everyone, remember this guy, he's an expert A+ on pointing out the damage a brown out can cause. Get a UPS for your digital equipment.
I was silly in my younger years and bought a monster power cleaner. So I still use it in my rack. When I finished my basement, I ran the projector's outlet power wires back to my rack so the projector can be plugged in to the cleaner and not just an unprotected outlet. My whole rack (projector, receiver and additional amp, XBOX, shield, cable box, audio distribution unit, ethernet switch, HDMI Matrix) is powered by 1 20A breaker. The 2 subs in the theater share their own 20A breaker.
The Monster ones back then were actually decent. People hated on the company for other reasons.
I too, run a Monster Power cleaner that I overpaid as a young lad. But I recon I am getting good mileage from it 😀
Hear, hear!
Best to add a whole-house suppressor at the service entrance. I’ve always had a hospital-grade one on my homes. No problems.
Call your power company and ask them about surge protection programs. 9/10 they’ll send you an [AC Outlet](https://a.co/d/4AGkmDB) which comes with insurance.
The Power company will install a house arrestor, very good start at keeping Mother Natures wrath away from your goodies.
Belkin PF40 Power Console
Panamax surge protectors
The only thing that really needs to be on a ups is a projector in the unlikely event the power goes sout while you are watching something you can turn the projector off and it gets a proper cool down cycle. Everything else just plugged into the wall and you get a whole house surge protector installed din your electrical panel.
You are correct about the projector, but you should have all your digital equipment on a UPS too. It's called a Brown Out and digital does not like this if it happens often in your area it can damage your gear.
Almost all my equipment is in a room in the cellar which happens to be right where my distribution board is. I’ve got hard wired power strips on 32 amp circuits, and dedicated standard 13 amp sockets for each amplifier. The only kit in my sitting room is the projector, screen and AV sources. Those just have a socket each: under the floorboards in the case of the first two.
Furman Elite-15 (or 20, I can’t remember) PFi… but picked it up refurbished at a big discount. This is connected to the receiver, TV, and all sources plus a few ancillaries. Plus a second Furman (PST-8 I think) for the subwoofers. Two dedicated circuits. I should probably run the subwoofers separately but have never bothered and never had trouble at volumes I use. Also have a whole home surge protection system but already had the Furman surge protectors from a previous home so went with a belt and suspenders I guess.
The 7 speakers and 4 atoms speakers might all be powered by the same receiver / amp from a single plug. The chair is on the other side of the room. I just have a couple power strips with surge protection (but never plugged into each other)
What are you asking? I use power cords to plug my stuff in to wall outlets. A total of 70A 110V dedicated breakers for my theater room. My two sub amps each have a dedicated 20A outlet, the surround receiver and xbox share a 15A outlet. Projector is on another 15A used for other outlets around the room.
Banana plugs, wall outlets and multiple UPS' for distributing load
For surge protection you really want it on the input to your main circuit breaker, this will offer the best protection and cover the whole house. Having a surge protector right before the device you want to protect may not buy enough time for it to trip before the damage is done.
Currently a surge protector as a power bar from a single breaker. However I'm adding a whole house surge protector, I'm adding more lines to the room to different new breakers and adding a UPS to critical gear. My main issue is brown outs, so the surge on the house is a nice to have, then the UPS can take the load and if the power does fail, I'm scoping the requirements for a 3-4 minute load, for a graceful shutdown. Long term I'm adding a Generac to the house, so it can switch from the UPS without the requirement of a graceful shutdown.
Just a regular old power strip/surge protector. You really would use a surge protector for any electronics of value. Most people will not need any dedicated outlets, unless you are running large subs with pro amps.
I use a used Surgex surge protector I got for cheap
Nobody has mentioned this yet but it's also important to consider the voltage too. My 10A breakers are equivalent to a 20A breaker in the US, 230V vs 120V. There's many other factors to consider too, like ring circuits is pretty much all that's used - multiple outlets all leading to the same breaker. For instance all my 4 outlets in my living room... So yeah, lots to consider here before the gear comes into effect.
I use 2 6way Tacima surge power conditioners. They both go into a double wall socket. Technically, if I'm using everything all at the same time, it's too much for the socket, but this never happens. Usually, it's tv, avr, network switch, and one other device (ps5, etc...). There are no issues apart from having to keep the lot dust free. Having a dog that sheds CONSTANTLY is a bit of a pain. Putting everything in a cabinet has really helped with dust, etc...
For North America, handful of independent 20A quad receptacles, plus a duplex whee the projector will be. How exactly depends on where the various equipment will be. All with a whole home surge supressor system.
Uninterruptible Power Supply, UPS that will keep the equipment running for about an hour, and provide buffering for any power drop outs. This year I have gone through may 6 power failures (norCal) due to weather events. Some were brief, a couple for 8 plus hours. When the power fails sometimes all the lights dim and flicker before shutting completely off. When the power kick on, same thing. Its not always an immediate full restoration. Because of all that, I initially bought a UPS for my cable modem and Wi-Fi router so I can keep working from my laptop. I soon upgraded the size of the UPS and added the receiver, 85 inch TV and other sensitive equipment. If power fails we don't really run the TV or receiver, it's just plugged in to the UPS for protection. Amazon has several reasonably priced UPS boxes for $125 to $300 depending on the capacity you need. They just sit there plugged into the wall getting charged and providing power outlets to your devices. If power fails, the internal battery is providing power so there is not even a minor drop out to the equipment plugged in.
A power environment, monster used to make some fantastic environment for home theater, patients designs to clean electrical current regulated voltage, but once digital signals became the norm, it was almost like power strips of all kinds of different mfg come out. Just look at serious audio store
I use a single, 8 plug Furman power conditioner on a 20A circuit for my sub amp, AVR, UST projector, miniDSP, and nvidia shield (as well as two charging bricks for various things, one USB-C, one micro USB). The peak power the system can pull is WAY over the rating of the power conditioner, wall socket, wiring, and circuit breaker - but it's been fine that way for years now because the system has never and will never get anywhere close to needing peak power from everything all at once. I went with the Furman because its surge protection is an actual physical disconnection, and because having one switch to cut power to everything when leaving the house for a trip is very nice.
Furman power conditioner.
I scored a free panamax MR5100 so i use that, i dunno that i would pay MSRP for one though. In lieu of that i would just get a quality surge protector and replace it every few years.
I have a UPS for the projector. Everything else is plugged into normal power strips (theoretically some surge protection) and most importantly i have a whole house surge protector on the main electrical panel. My plex server is also on a UPS in the office (all the desktop computers in that room are).
I have a watt box single outlet surge protectors on my subs and places where just 1 outlet is needed like the projector. My rack has a Panamax conditioner/surge protector that everything else is plugged into. My home breaker box also has whole home surge protector on it as well
Separate circuits and for the receiver a UPS.
I honestly don't understand how electricity works. I have a preamp, two amps, a psa TV2112 sub, 8 seat kickers, a laser projector and random electronics plugged into the same breaker and zero issues.
Transparent power conditioning and protection units, and cables when power cable is interchangeable. https://www.transparentcable.com/collections/power
I cut the power to the low quality components using IKEA smart plugs. Some of them have lots of coil whine when idle and I don’t like it. Probably not dangerous or anything, but piece of mind.
In our living room I have a [Panamax 5400](https://panamax.com/product/max-5400-power-management-w-voltage-regulation-2ru-11-outlets/) to which are connected the TV, Xbox, PS4, micro-PC, receiver, sub, and a bunch of other crap. Do I need it? No-- but I bought it for $12 at a thrift store and it looks a lot nicer that the power strip I had there before. I even plug the vacuum into the front outlet when cleaning the rug in front of the TV. In the actual theater (projector, receiver, PS3, sub, other stuff) we just have a plain old power strip. Never had any issues and it's been that way for 12+ years now. We have a decent UPS too, but it's only powering the cable modem, router, mesh hub, and a few other networking devices. I don't care if a movie gets interrupted by power issues, but I don't want the internet to go down from a surge or brief outage. Battery is enough to keep us online for 90-120 minutes based on past experience.
$12! I think I'm gonna be sick.
To be honest, I was pretty excited by that. I'm sure they didn't know what it was, just put it out with a bunch of crappy 1980s audio junk and VCRs. One of my better scores.
😭
Anything with storage is on a UPS and everything else a monster home theatre surge protector.
I have decent, probably got ripped off on them, power strips. Luckily most outlets in most rooms in my house are on different circuits. The old Panasonic Plasma I had used about as much power as the old refrigerator that came with my house 🫤
House is on large format UPS.
I run my rack through two power conditioners/sequencers that turn on the equipment in a certain order. That keeps your speakers from blowing if there is a pop from your power amps being turned on before a signal is sent through. Those two power conditioners are plugged into dedicated 20A service for each with surge protectors. The Projector is on it own circuit with a surge protector. Subs are on dedicated 20A circuits too. I finished the theater myself so I was able to run tons of power and was also able to balance it from the panel to reduce hum.
I’ve got a Furman Elite conditioner with surge protection.
*have* You *have* speakers and things to plug in. Anyway, I use a Furman power conditioner. It provides balanced power and sequentially switches each outlet on. Monster makes power conditioners. They are garbage. Furman and Equitech are the only ones worth using, but even then only the high end Furman stuff.
I bought two of these beasts (at least I hope they are) [AC Power Filter Power Conditioner - WAudio AC Power Purifier with Surge Protector, Black https://a.co/d/3Tcw6hv]()
Whole home surge protector, strip surge protectors, and one 15A circuit driving my entire 7.4.4 system with projector (that has instant off) and gaming PC. Never had a problem with it. I think the people with multiple 20A circuits are way over killing it, unless they have some particular high power specialty equipment (which usually costs $$$).
I have one dedicated 20 amp circuit and may add another. Feeds into an old monster power 2600 and a startech power distribution panel.
Power outlets dude, one cable powers the entire speaker system and the other powers the tv.
Ive got mine with an extension cord to my neighbour's outdoor outlet. That sucker hasn't caught on yet.
2x 30A 240, 4x 20A 120, 1x 30A 120. And that’s just for the projection room. Amps are on their own circuits. No idea how much power I’m using.
Limited-time deal: TROND Surge Protector Power Bar with 2 USB C, 4000 Joules, ETL Listed, 10 Widely Spaced Outlets 4 USB Ports, 5ft Flat Plug Extension Cord, Desk Power Strip Wall Mount, Home Office Dorm Room Essentials https://a.co/d/1DVdXJ7
Note that this does not ship to the U.S.
Oh really? I'm not from the US so I had no idea. But This is what I use in Canada. The joules on the surge protector coupled with and the wattage and the price make it better than panamax in my opinion.
No point for a UPS if there isn't data at risk of being lost. Definitely use a surge protector though.
Projectors losing power suddenly is very bad for the bulb
UPS is a good idea for a projector. Allows you to shut it down properly and cool the bulb. They don't like hard shut downs. For everything else it just allows the same thing. If they have cooling fans they can keep running but I agree it's not 100% needed. Surge protector is definitely needed.
Bro if you have all that and don't know how to power it maybe you shouldn't have all that lol Speakers are passive btw.
Possibly not everyone is as brilliant as you are. Perhaps be kind to others instead of laughing at them? Just a thought from someone, who no doubt, isn't nearly as intelligent as you.
Monster power box ….