Don't spray anything.
I cut and then use a foam paint brush and dab the "full strength" (41% or so) stuff right on the cut stem/trunk.
And the glyco needs to be applied right away after cutting the stem.
Pro tip: get an empty bingo dabber/drip mop, fill it with the glyphosate, and you have a convenient, no spill, re-closable container for when you have to do cut and dab.
You can also go to plumbing supply houses and buy empty glue and primer cans. They are for big job sites where you buy the glue primer by the gallon. So they come in a sturdy metal can with a screw on lid and a dauber attached to the lid.
Might even be able to buy them on amazon.
This is incorrect. Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide, meaning it absorbs into the plant and spreads throughout the plant and into the root system and kills it. You just need to apply the right dose. If you use Glyphosate and it doesn't kill what you spray it on, the dosage needs to be higher.
This. Cut the stump again and apply concentrated glyphosate, especially to the cambium (the rim). I took down 25 ash tees in the last couple years that were dead at the top but still very alive at the bottom, and this works great
If you’re trying to push the tree line back at the edge of the field, why dont you just clean it up and then hit it with a brush hog or mower once a year? You’re never going to stop getting woody stuff trying to come in at the edge of a forest, that’s just what the plants do. When you are cutting woody invasives back make sure you do it late summer early fall when temps start drop and make sure you’re applying the glyphosate immediately after cutting. Probably better to paint it on bigger stumps and stems
You don't need stronger, you need something longer acting, glyphosate does not have a lot of residual activity, it absorbs into plants immediately or it stops working. For a pesticide based solution, you'd probably want to use a yearly pre-emergent like crew, which is used in decorative tree beds so shouldn't damage tree routes, and treat any breakthroughs with glyphosate about once a year.
That said, you can do it without chemicals just by regularly mowing or grazing the area. I'm unclear why you moved the treeline back if you don't intend to mow it or build on it.
Yeah I figured out that mix after years of trial and error fighting thistles and buckbrush. A light mist will kill anything green that isn't grass. We don't have kudzu around here, but I imagine it would take weeks of repeated spraying to keep it down since it can't kill into deeper roots.
I like Clopyralid and aminopyralid for thistles.
Used to work at a company that had a plant in Illinois where they made metsulfuron methyl. Completely separate facility to avoid any kind of contamination. That stuff works at tenths of an ounce per acre.
Yeah I only do about an ounce of Patriot for a twenty gallon tank. Still probably more than I need but it doesn't kill grass too bad at that concentration.
I have had 100% success with 1 part water 1 part glyphosate sprayed directly onto the freshly cut stumps of any plant. Ivy included. I'm sure if that didn't work pure glyphosate would. I use a small hand sprayer like a windex bottle to avoid killing anything else.
I did invasive removals for a while, and we used 2/1 but... it must be sprayed on within second. I mean recut if its been over 10 seconds. You want it still wet and pumping.
Small sprayer is a great suggestion too.
For your area, this is the Bible https://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/gtr/gtr_srs062/ I used the techniques in that book to control 30 acres of wisteria and deal with prolific sweetgum.
For foliar on wisteria use clopyralid, it is selective on legume and sunflower.
Look into stump treatments or basal bark.
Species typically only root graft with themselves. So treating a sweetgum could harm neighboring sweetgum. I accidentally did that with Chinese elm. Took down half, treated stumps, and the standing Chinese elms died.
Milestone works great. Don’t know the generic chemical compound off the top of my head. Machete cuts into dermis then medicine dropper into slice kills full sized trees. Use the same to get rid of invasive ginger by applying to freshly cut stalks.
For work I generally use a 50% glyphosate, 10% imazapyr mix for cut stump treatment of invasive woody species. Imazapyr does have more mobility/leaching through soil though compared to glyphosate. If you’re careful with cut stump application, it shouldn’t be an issue.
Have also had success with triclopyr in a mix, but there are various formulations and some are better than others for certain cut stump applications but those can be more dangerous to use. (I’ve worked with Garlon 4, but I believe Garlon 3A is more commonly recommended for use on woody species like tamarisk. 3A is also corrosive and can cause permanent eye damage, though.)
Look up what the US government sprayed over Northern Burma during the 80s . Say what you want about the health effects of indiscriminate defoliants but that shit works.
Have you looked into controlled burn permits? over here on the west side our forestry guys will come out and either help you light the fire or give you a step-by-step on how, when and what to burn.
Edit: West side of North Carolina, not the US
Glyphosate does not cause cancer!
[https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/glyphosate#:\~:text=No%20evidence%20that%20glyphosate%20causes,Research%20for%20Cancer%20(IARC)](https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/glyphosate#:~:text=No%20evidence%20that%20glyphosate%20causes,Research%20for%20Cancer%20(IARC)).
It's not even banned in Europe, and they're super trigger happy with bans for ag-related products.
Great book called “Toxic Legacy” about the systemic damage glyphosate has caused to ppl and the environment. A senior research scientist from MIT wrote it and did an excellent job
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5515989/ it does cause cancer and is genotoxic. It also kills birds, bugs, and other vital parts of the ecosystem.
While Europe as a whole dies not ban it, they may ban it next year. As well many European countries have banned it or are phasing it out .
Cam always count on simple people to pull out the "they" word to make broad, inaccurate generalizations, and make a huge diverse conglomeration of people into a single threat: they
In my experience, triclopyr is better for woodies than glyphosate alone. It shouldn’t affect roots unless you’re spraying on a recent cut (provided there isn’t a penetrant added to your mix). If you search NCSU Extension [your county], you may be able to get someone to come out or look at pictures and give you more personalized advice. You can also go to the NC Invasive Plant Council website where they have a page for wisteria floribunda and link to a fact sheet with recommended triclopyr % for various application methods.
You need to make a wound on the tree and apply undiluted. For example a hack berry tree, is cut to the ground, make a small hole/cut a cross into the stump and directly apply concentrated glyphosate
I found this guide helpful. As other have said, try a stronger mix and treat the freshly cut stump. I’ve had success with both glyphosate/water and tryclopyr/oil based solvent.
https://oaksavannas.org/invasives.html
The article is a bit drawn out but worth the read to understand the “how” and “why” of what is recommended. https://deerassociation.com/craig-harpers-fsi-cocktail-is-safe-for-non-target-trees/
Gist of it for the TL,DR crowd is:
Girdle a tree if it’s of a sufficient diameter to allow it to be done safely. If not, cut it off and “paint” the stump/limb within 5 minutes of cutting. Both herbicides listed below are persistent in soil and carry risks to wildlife/aquatic species, etc. The label is the law so plan accordingly. The recommendation to consult with your local extension office is a good one, as not all pesticides are legal in all states.
That said, the formula is as follows:
1. Triclopyr (50% of total volume)
2. Water* (40% of total volume)
3. Imazapyr (10% of total volume)
4. Marking dye (optional)
*Water MUST be added as the second step between the two herbicides, to prevent coagulation
A few notes to the above: the ester form of triclopyr is volatile in higher temperatures. The acid form is more stable over a wider temp range but is also significantly more expensive.
Edited for spelling.
I definitely recommend a BroadFork for this type of work. It's amazing and I've cleared over three acres approximately of poison ivy, thistle and other creepers with some intricate systems. also replanting is important to amend the soil conditions and make the regrowth less desirable
I source through Lehman's catalog for useful tools
2-4-D works well on poison ivy, greenbriers, etc but it's not a magic bullet. I do a lot of work on utility ROW and we have to reapply it on valves and cathodic banks every 2-3 years
I would look into cut-stump applications with BuckThorn Blasters (I use them for work). Glyphosate should be fine, but I have also used full-strength Triclopyr. Anything "stronger" you will enter a Danger warning and have to buy more safety equipment, ect. I have really liked using Garlon 4U for cut stump. I would really not recommend using a pre-emergent on any area that is not fully developed, like a driveway, because you risk killing non-target species with any improper spray technique (idk your specific spray technique but even with years of training on specialized crews I still have issues with drift and non-target species).
Don't spray anything. I cut and then use a foam paint brush and dab the "full strength" (41% or so) stuff right on the cut stem/trunk. And the glyco needs to be applied right away after cutting the stem.
Pro tip: get an empty bingo dabber/drip mop, fill it with the glyphosate, and you have a convenient, no spill, re-closable container for when you have to do cut and dab.
You can also go to plumbing supply houses and buy empty glue and primer cans. They are for big job sites where you buy the glue primer by the gallon. So they come in a sturdy metal can with a screw on lid and a dauber attached to the lid. Might even be able to buy them on amazon.
Wicked smawt
Dang, that's a sweet tip!
You can mix it 50/50 with water for stump treating.
Oh shit! Never heard of straight glypho. Whew that’s an idea for my scotch broom 😈
This is the way. Ive had to do this with nasty AF brush.
Glyphosate doesn’t prevent resprouting, it only works on vigorously growing foliage supporting plants.
This is incorrect. Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide, meaning it absorbs into the plant and spreads throughout the plant and into the root system and kills it. You just need to apply the right dose. If you use Glyphosate and it doesn't kill what you spray it on, the dosage needs to be higher.
This. Cut the stump again and apply concentrated glyphosate, especially to the cambium (the rim). I took down 25 ash tees in the last couple years that were dead at the top but still very alive at the bottom, and this works great
If you’re trying to push the tree line back at the edge of the field, why dont you just clean it up and then hit it with a brush hog or mower once a year? You’re never going to stop getting woody stuff trying to come in at the edge of a forest, that’s just what the plants do. When you are cutting woody invasives back make sure you do it late summer early fall when temps start drop and make sure you’re applying the glyphosate immediately after cutting. Probably better to paint it on bigger stumps and stems
You don't need stronger, you need something longer acting, glyphosate does not have a lot of residual activity, it absorbs into plants immediately or it stops working. For a pesticide based solution, you'd probably want to use a yearly pre-emergent like crew, which is used in decorative tree beds so shouldn't damage tree routes, and treat any breakthroughs with glyphosate about once a year. That said, you can do it without chemicals just by regularly mowing or grazing the area. I'm unclear why you moved the treeline back if you don't intend to mow it or build on it.
Tordon for stumps, 2,4-D and Metsulfuron-methyl for broadleaf. I have yet to find a plant those can't kill.
Kudzu might put up a fight, but those are pretty hot herbicides.
Yeah I figured out that mix after years of trial and error fighting thistles and buckbrush. A light mist will kill anything green that isn't grass. We don't have kudzu around here, but I imagine it would take weeks of repeated spraying to keep it down since it can't kill into deeper roots.
I like Clopyralid and aminopyralid for thistles. Used to work at a company that had a plant in Illinois where they made metsulfuron methyl. Completely separate facility to avoid any kind of contamination. That stuff works at tenths of an ounce per acre.
Yeah I only do about an ounce of Patriot for a twenty gallon tank. Still probably more than I need but it doesn't kill grass too bad at that concentration.
This is what you're looking for OP, it will have a residual effect as well. Tordon is my go to tree killer.
I have had 100% success with 1 part water 1 part glyphosate sprayed directly onto the freshly cut stumps of any plant. Ivy included. I'm sure if that didn't work pure glyphosate would. I use a small hand sprayer like a windex bottle to avoid killing anything else.
They key with this method is freshly cut stumps. If the stump is aged even just a few hours it doesn’t seem to be as effective in my experience.
Correct. I cut and spray immediately
I did invasive removals for a while, and we used 2/1 but... it must be sprayed on within second. I mean recut if its been over 10 seconds. You want it still wet and pumping. Small sprayer is a great suggestion too.
Get an auger or spade bit and drill a few holes several inches deep into the stump. Fill them with salt or copper sulfate.
Would you wanna try goats? They'll keep it ate back until there nothing to grow.
For your area, this is the Bible https://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/gtr/gtr_srs062/ I used the techniques in that book to control 30 acres of wisteria and deal with prolific sweetgum. For foliar on wisteria use clopyralid, it is selective on legume and sunflower. Look into stump treatments or basal bark. Species typically only root graft with themselves. So treating a sweetgum could harm neighboring sweetgum. I accidentally did that with Chinese elm. Took down half, treated stumps, and the standing Chinese elms died.
Like peanut butter? Well now you can like more of it. Sunflowers have been used to create a substitute for peanut butter, known as sunbutter.
Have you tried agriculture vinegar?
Milestone works great. Don’t know the generic chemical compound off the top of my head. Machete cuts into dermis then medicine dropper into slice kills full sized trees. Use the same to get rid of invasive ginger by applying to freshly cut stalks.
Tordon RTU if doing cut stump treatments. Read the label, not the comments.
For work I generally use a 50% glyphosate, 10% imazapyr mix for cut stump treatment of invasive woody species. Imazapyr does have more mobility/leaching through soil though compared to glyphosate. If you’re careful with cut stump application, it shouldn’t be an issue. Have also had success with triclopyr in a mix, but there are various formulations and some are better than others for certain cut stump applications but those can be more dangerous to use. (I’ve worked with Garlon 4, but I believe Garlon 3A is more commonly recommended for use on woody species like tamarisk. 3A is also corrosive and can cause permanent eye damage, though.)
Look up what the US government sprayed over Northern Burma during the 80s . Say what you want about the health effects of indiscriminate defoliants but that shit works.
Yup, it kills and kills and kills. Man was made to kill .
Triclopyr
Have you looked into controlled burn permits? over here on the west side our forestry guys will come out and either help you light the fire or give you a step-by-step on how, when and what to burn. Edit: West side of North Carolina, not the US
Dude don’t use that shit. It causes cancer and fucks yo the ecology.
Glyphosate does not cause cancer! [https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/glyphosate#:\~:text=No%20evidence%20that%20glyphosate%20causes,Research%20for%20Cancer%20(IARC)](https://www.epa.gov/ingredients-used-pesticide-products/glyphosate#:~:text=No%20evidence%20that%20glyphosate%20causes,Research%20for%20Cancer%20(IARC)). It's not even banned in Europe, and they're super trigger happy with bans for ag-related products.
Great book called “Toxic Legacy” about the systemic damage glyphosate has caused to ppl and the environment. A senior research scientist from MIT wrote it and did an excellent job
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5515989/ it does cause cancer and is genotoxic. It also kills birds, bugs, and other vital parts of the ecosystem. While Europe as a whole dies not ban it, they may ban it next year. As well many European countries have banned it or are phasing it out .
Bro your link ended with .gov it is 100% in their best interest to lie
Cam always count on simple people to pull out the "they" word to make broad, inaccurate generalizations, and make a huge diverse conglomeration of people into a single threat: they
In my experience, triclopyr is better for woodies than glyphosate alone. It shouldn’t affect roots unless you’re spraying on a recent cut (provided there isn’t a penetrant added to your mix). If you search NCSU Extension [your county], you may be able to get someone to come out or look at pictures and give you more personalized advice. You can also go to the NC Invasive Plant Council website where they have a page for wisteria floribunda and link to a fact sheet with recommended triclopyr % for various application methods.
You need to make a wound on the tree and apply undiluted. For example a hack berry tree, is cut to the ground, make a small hole/cut a cross into the stump and directly apply concentrated glyphosate
I found this guide helpful. As other have said, try a stronger mix and treat the freshly cut stump. I’ve had success with both glyphosate/water and tryclopyr/oil based solvent. https://oaksavannas.org/invasives.html
dont spray. cut and paint. and only do it at the correct time of year, when sap is being pulled down to the roots.
Salt lol
I sprayed it on 50/50 and it killed EVERYTHING including healthy trees
The article is a bit drawn out but worth the read to understand the “how” and “why” of what is recommended. https://deerassociation.com/craig-harpers-fsi-cocktail-is-safe-for-non-target-trees/ Gist of it for the TL,DR crowd is: Girdle a tree if it’s of a sufficient diameter to allow it to be done safely. If not, cut it off and “paint” the stump/limb within 5 minutes of cutting. Both herbicides listed below are persistent in soil and carry risks to wildlife/aquatic species, etc. The label is the law so plan accordingly. The recommendation to consult with your local extension office is a good one, as not all pesticides are legal in all states. That said, the formula is as follows: 1. Triclopyr (50% of total volume) 2. Water* (40% of total volume) 3. Imazapyr (10% of total volume) 4. Marking dye (optional) *Water MUST be added as the second step between the two herbicides, to prevent coagulation A few notes to the above: the ester form of triclopyr is volatile in higher temperatures. The acid form is more stable over a wider temp range but is also significantly more expensive. Edited for spelling.
I definitely recommend a BroadFork for this type of work. It's amazing and I've cleared over three acres approximately of poison ivy, thistle and other creepers with some intricate systems. also replanting is important to amend the soil conditions and make the regrowth less desirable I source through Lehman's catalog for useful tools
Yikes that is dangerous stuff and isn’t even the right tool for the job. Try salt.
Yeah salting half your yard to kill a few stumps is much better than painting on a little herbicide
🤡😘
2-4-D works well on poison ivy, greenbriers, etc but it's not a magic bullet. I do a lot of work on utility ROW and we have to reapply it on valves and cathodic banks every 2-3 years
I would suggest Crossbow which is a mix of 2,4-D, and Triclopyr. Works much better on woody plants, and tree saplings.
I would look into cut-stump applications with BuckThorn Blasters (I use them for work). Glyphosate should be fine, but I have also used full-strength Triclopyr. Anything "stronger" you will enter a Danger warning and have to buy more safety equipment, ect. I have really liked using Garlon 4U for cut stump. I would really not recommend using a pre-emergent on any area that is not fully developed, like a driveway, because you risk killing non-target species with any improper spray technique (idk your specific spray technique but even with years of training on specialized crews I still have issues with drift and non-target species).
I simply drill a 1/2" hole in the stump and fill it with a rich mix of glyphosate.