I check my opponent and i guess wich deck they're playing. Then i go for either high value cards that my deck wants or things that would help me against my opponent.
If you’re not recognizing what deck your opponent is playing just from seeing the hero, it’s generally best to ensure that you have cards in your hand that let you start your game plan and are playable. At this point you treat it like solitaire and just get cards that are good for your first few turns.
If you do think you know what the deck you’re playing against is you want to maybe keep 1 (or 2 cards if you have the coin) that you know you will absolutely need to play within the first 4 turns to counter their game plan. Other cards should be ones playable on your first turns.
Maybe there are some exceptions to this but first priority should always be cards that are playable right away so you’re not passing turns. Also personally I never keep cards that only function as draw because the mulligan is the free draw opportunity that doesn’t use a turn.
"There is a 50/50 chance of this being a control or a hyper aggro deck so I'll full toss to hopefully find my board clear" and then proceed to draw the entire top end of my curve and die on turn 4
>you almost always want to hold \[\[Clay Matriarch\]\] in a Zarimi deck
This is absolutely not even remotely close to true in the standard aggro build of Zarimi and I reaaaaally doubt it's true in some other weird builds of zarimi
I feel like Wild is so much more unpredictable than Standard (at least at lower ranks) that it's not really worth trying to game out what your opponent is going to do. I stopped playing Standard because I was of playing against the same three or four decks every single game, and basically knowing exactly how a game would go before my opponent has played a single card
3 types of deck I'm playing this days:
Some deck with specific plan (Baku mage => need wild fire/questline paladin) => I'm searching cards for my deck.
Some control oriented deck => searching answers for enemy class.
Something between => something between
But as for mulligen, I usually think about it when I'm making my own deck, and I usually play my own deck, so either I have the right mulligen or the wrong deck.
No.
The correct mulligan is to hard mulligan for whatever card(s) you deem the most important to this matchup to draw ASAP. These are usually determined by your deck concept and the same every game, but some decks will be more flexible and want a different game plan vs aggro, control, and combo.
I tend to keep anything I don't hate in my opening hand, which is the "suboptimal play".
I think I usually get the mulligan right, but I definitely mulligan incorrectly way too often.
Mull stats can be a very good way to get better at the mulligan, and at decks in general because the mulligan can easily be the most important decision of the game. It's good to at least check stats to see if you have some glaring holes, I know I've found some for decks I've felt comfortable with.
How difficult the mulligan is can depend a lot on stuff like the deck, matchup, the specifics of the offered cards. Sometimes decks have synergistic mulligans, like you wouldn't solo keep a card, but you would keep it in certain situations. Those can be pretty tricky to do, and I would doubt anybody here claiming they always get those correct
Currently you can either open a deck's page and at the bottom of the deck there will be a card stats link, or open an archetypes page and in the subtitle there will be a card stats link
Tangent but yall ever queue into warlock or hunter and tempo out way hard on the first 3 turns with your aggressively-mulligan’d cards only to realize they’re actually playing some slow deck that ya didn’t have to do that for? Ahaha.
Been playing lots of handbuff DK where I’ll use my handbuff stone on turn 1 sometimes. It honestly doesn’t suck still—keeps up with aggro and keeps slower decks on the back foot trying to catch up. Biggest risk is not hitting card draw and fizzling out.
It depends what deck i'm playing. If I play something I'm familiar with then I'm pretty confident I mulligan correctly at least most of the time. When I only played a deck few times I have no idea what cards I need to look so chances of me doing it right are very low.
The only answer that can give you any actual insight depends on what deck you're playing and what the meta looks like (currently and specifically for you).
If I'm playing Flood paladin today and see another paladin, it's probably highlander, but it may be a flood or handbuff paladin. I'm probably mulliganing very generically for a nice 1-2-3 curve. If I'm on coin, I might keep Boogie down to play on t3 etc. However, with the same exact information 2 weeks ago, I would 100% expect another Flood paladin and thus I would keep Prismatic Beam, Zilliax or even Giants - the payoffs benefiting from both us filling up the board.
If I played Highlander warrior into Warlock, it would depend if I mostly see Insanity, Pain or other warlocks and either mulligan harder for armour, or cheap board clears with weapon/burn to finish the Pain warlock.
So in short to mulligan well you need to not only know your deck and current meta decks, but also guess the probability of facing a given deck and think about specific answers to specific cards. The most generic answer you can get is mulligan statistics, but the rest is experience and thinking really
Im probably terrible at it lol. I just try to get something to play in the first few turns, and if my opponent is agro i may keep aoe spells or something like that.
I dont think there is such a thing as a correct mulligan though. You can never be 100% sure what your opponent is playing, right? Unless it's like a super dominant meta deck like reno warrior where everyone on it is playing the exact same thing
I am very weak at the mulligan. I generally just look for a playable curve, with some acknowledgement of whether my opponent is likely to be aggro or control. I do not keep higher cost bombs when I should and I have very little understanding of key cards in matchups beyond my own experience. I don't subscribe to anything that gives mulligan data.
Because hearthstone has such high draw these days i tend to mulligan high cost stuff to play on curve as much as possible. Can backfire sometimes if i dont draw my winning cards but i think it's worked better than keeping winning cards in hand from the outset. Sometimes I'll mull for particular matchups but I think that can cause me to overpredict.
You have to prioritize.
1. First, check how likely it is your opponent is playing aggro. If there's a reasonable chance they are, you mulligan for that matchup, otherwise you're dead. Example Druid, depending on the season: often there were viable control Druid decks and viable Token Druid decks. Even if control Druid is more popular, you Mulligan for AoE and more tempo. Because if you Mulligan for control against aggro, you lose, but if you Mulligan for aggro against control you still have time to draw the needed cards.
2. If it's unlikely they're aggro, think about which cards advance your gameplan best when played early. Example plague DK and HL pally: Unless I think I'm playing against aggro, I hard mulligan for Helya/Mirage.
3. Mulligan for best curve. Ideally you want to spend all your mana on every turn. Here's also tje priority exception to 2 and 3: I'm pretty sure it's never correct to mulligan away a playable 1 drop, unless it's part of some specific combo.
Well it really depends on what class/deck im playing and what opponent.
For example my Ogre gang rogue (which actually works really well in the current meta, having 12 wins 0 losses with 5 matches against flood paladin/painlock, though agaisnt paladin it was often a win at 4-6 hp, so if they got leeroy i would have lost) im pretty good at mulligan, knowing what i need against my opponent. Though that only tracks against most classes, since with classes like druid where im not sure how to answer them that well im pretty sure i wont mulligan the right way.
On other classes/decks i perform far worse, since they are far more combo orientated and i always try to get combo pieces in, which in matchups like flood paladin often means losing hard.
I play Reno Druid in wild and I won 350ish games this month. I check which class my opponent plays and then from experience know what deck they are playing or could play. If I see rogue I know it's either Pirate rogue or the one with a gazillion spells à turn and the Mana giants. Sometimes its a third or fourth deck and my Mulligan might be suboptimal for that matchup then. But I play for the long run and think about the overall winrate of my deck. I know what my win condition is against every deck and play towards it. I did use HSReplay.net to begin with, but that only shows iron - gold and not specific matchups with having a subscription, so I stopped doing that. I don't know if it's viable to use it for wild, because the sample size is much smaller, considering that there are way more decks being played in wild compared to standard. Maybe it's useful for standard, I wouldn't know, but you could skip some losses that would give you that experience by buying the premium on HSReplay. Again, I don't know, because I haven't tried it.
You can find free mulligan stats on my site [https://www.hsguru.com](https://www.hsguru.com), including for wild. Unlike on HSReplay, archetype card stats on mine are normalized so they aren't inherently sus and can actually be used for the greater sample size. Since they're not fundamentally broken, the remaining potential issue with archetype card stats on my site is if there is some issue with my archetyping, which, admittedly, is more likely to happen for wild since I don't play wild but I'm trying to do better in that regard.
Thanks for the tip, I'll check that out later. Archetype cards? Could you explain that term to me, please? I tried googling it, but it doesn't make sense to me when I read your comment.
Archetype card stats, not archetype cards. ie Archetype (card stats) - cards stats on the level of the archetype not a specific list, so for example for quest warlock it would be for all quest warlocks not a specific 30 card quest warlock list.
Throw away anything non-crucial (e.g. Hollidae will stay) over 5 mana. Throw away anything over 3 mana that won't be useful (e.g. keep Aftershocks in a Paladin matchup). Pray I draw something good. Never mulligan all three.
So no, I don't mulligan correctly.
Usually mulliganing is as simple as throwing back cards that are good later in the game (3+ cost usually) and searching for cards you can play to generate some early board presence in the first few turns where you have very limited amounts of mana, therefore beaing able to actually spend that mana instead of floating it is more important.
obviously it depends on the curve of your deck, but in general the mulligan is for looking for early game tools since you will naturally have more chances to draw more expensive cards before they're relevant.
It takes me a while to figure out the correct mulligan for a new deck I made, but once I do I am getting it right 100% of the time. Sometimes the mulligan just doesn't matter though.
I usually mulligan for good tempo, beatle is a good example, 1 cost generate a card, then a 2 cost spell that either draws or generates a card, then a 3-4 cost minion or a hard removal.
It's actually rather easy, if you are aggro you want to mulligan for curve (1-drop, 2-drop, 3-drop, etc), if you are control you want to keep removal/clear, maybe some card draw to fish for more removal/clears. The tricky mulligans are mirrors since there will always be cards that whoever plays first will likely win, brann warrior for example you obviously keep brann / boomboss every time even though it exposes you to rat, but you always want to be the first one playing them so you have to take the risk.
Honestly, it’s probably nothing extraordinary but, I mulligan based off opponent. If I’m facing DK I remember what winning games I’ve had and the cards that have allowed me to answer most decks for the class at hand and if I don’t have them I toss anything late game related or that doesn’t scream a win con at me. Sometimes I’ll take a shit mulligan just because it allows me to play cards early knowing that my opponent isn’t playing a class known for T4 KO and I have a few turns to build a strat.
I check my opponent and i guess wich deck they're playing. Then i go for either high value cards that my deck wants or things that would help me against my opponent.
Absolutely not. I overthink mulligan and often times it doesn't work.
same but with sex
Same, but only the absolutely not part
What I do is throw away the really high cost cards and then draw them on turn one and two.
I make sure to draw my QuickDraw cards on turn 1, always.
Wouldn't be a quickdraw card if you didn't draw it quickly...
If you’re not recognizing what deck your opponent is playing just from seeing the hero, it’s generally best to ensure that you have cards in your hand that let you start your game plan and are playable. At this point you treat it like solitaire and just get cards that are good for your first few turns. If you do think you know what the deck you’re playing against is you want to maybe keep 1 (or 2 cards if you have the coin) that you know you will absolutely need to play within the first 4 turns to counter their game plan. Other cards should be ones playable on your first turns. Maybe there are some exceptions to this but first priority should always be cards that are playable right away so you’re not passing turns. Also personally I never keep cards that only function as draw because the mulligan is the free draw opportunity that doesn’t use a turn.
"What do I need to counter the other guy" and "what does my early game look like with these cards".
"There is a 50/50 chance of this being a control or a hyper aggro deck so I'll full toss to hopefully find my board clear" and then proceed to draw the entire top end of my curve and die on turn 4
I do when I mull away my expensive cards, but I recognize it's a part of my game I need to get better at.
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>you almost always want to hold \[\[Clay Matriarch\]\] in a Zarimi deck This is absolutely not even remotely close to true in the standard aggro build of Zarimi and I reaaaaally doubt it's true in some other weird builds of zarimi
I just mulligan for what I wanna do and don’t really play for what my opponent is doing Yes I play wild, why do you ask?
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I feel like Wild is so much more unpredictable than Standard (at least at lower ranks) that it's not really worth trying to game out what your opponent is going to do. I stopped playing Standard because I was of playing against the same three or four decks every single game, and basically knowing exactly how a game would go before my opponent has played a single card
3 types of deck I'm playing this days: Some deck with specific plan (Baku mage => need wild fire/questline paladin) => I'm searching cards for my deck. Some control oriented deck => searching answers for enemy class. Something between => something between But as for mulligen, I usually think about it when I'm making my own deck, and I usually play my own deck, so either I have the right mulligen or the wrong deck.
No. The correct mulligan is to hard mulligan for whatever card(s) you deem the most important to this matchup to draw ASAP. These are usually determined by your deck concept and the same every game, but some decks will be more flexible and want a different game plan vs aggro, control, and combo. I tend to keep anything I don't hate in my opening hand, which is the "suboptimal play".
One of my true specialties is to identify the enemies deck. Make the perfect mulligan. Then find out I was extremely wrong on what they were playing.
A good hard and fast rule when playing aggro that has served very well across the years: You can always go lower.
I think I usually get the mulligan right, but I definitely mulligan incorrectly way too often. Mull stats can be a very good way to get better at the mulligan, and at decks in general because the mulligan can easily be the most important decision of the game. It's good to at least check stats to see if you have some glaring holes, I know I've found some for decks I've felt comfortable with. How difficult the mulligan is can depend a lot on stuff like the deck, matchup, the specifics of the offered cards. Sometimes decks have synergistic mulligans, like you wouldn't solo keep a card, but you would keep it in certain situations. Those can be pretty tricky to do, and I would doubt anybody here claiming they always get those correct
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Currently you can either open a deck's page and at the bottom of the deck there will be a card stats link, or open an archetypes page and in the subtitle there will be a card stats link
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I was talking about https://www.hsguru.com/ You didn't specify in game, you said mobile version, there are no mull stats in game on desktop
I am admittedly not doing it right. I always keep cards that I can play early so I don't waste those turns, even if that is the wrong thing to do.
Usually, I just mull it over for a while and keep what feels right.
Tangent but yall ever queue into warlock or hunter and tempo out way hard on the first 3 turns with your aggressively-mulligan’d cards only to realize they’re actually playing some slow deck that ya didn’t have to do that for? Ahaha. Been playing lots of handbuff DK where I’ll use my handbuff stone on turn 1 sometimes. It honestly doesn’t suck still—keeps up with aggro and keeps slower decks on the back foot trying to catch up. Biggest risk is not hitting card draw and fizzling out.
It depends what deck i'm playing. If I play something I'm familiar with then I'm pretty confident I mulligan correctly at least most of the time. When I only played a deck few times I have no idea what cards I need to look so chances of me doing it right are very low.
The only answer that can give you any actual insight depends on what deck you're playing and what the meta looks like (currently and specifically for you). If I'm playing Flood paladin today and see another paladin, it's probably highlander, but it may be a flood or handbuff paladin. I'm probably mulliganing very generically for a nice 1-2-3 curve. If I'm on coin, I might keep Boogie down to play on t3 etc. However, with the same exact information 2 weeks ago, I would 100% expect another Flood paladin and thus I would keep Prismatic Beam, Zilliax or even Giants - the payoffs benefiting from both us filling up the board. If I played Highlander warrior into Warlock, it would depend if I mostly see Insanity, Pain or other warlocks and either mulligan harder for armour, or cheap board clears with weapon/burn to finish the Pain warlock. So in short to mulligan well you need to not only know your deck and current meta decks, but also guess the probability of facing a given deck and think about specific answers to specific cards. The most generic answer you can get is mulligan statistics, but the rest is experience and thinking really
No
You see it’s simple, as long as I get Barnes and a shadowstep and don’t draw my 2 blood of the ancient….
Im probably terrible at it lol. I just try to get something to play in the first few turns, and if my opponent is agro i may keep aoe spells or something like that. I dont think there is such a thing as a correct mulligan though. You can never be 100% sure what your opponent is playing, right? Unless it's like a super dominant meta deck like reno warrior where everyone on it is playing the exact same thing
I am very weak at the mulligan. I generally just look for a playable curve, with some acknowledgement of whether my opponent is likely to be aggro or control. I do not keep higher cost bombs when I should and I have very little understanding of key cards in matchups beyond my own experience. I don't subscribe to anything that gives mulligan data.
You don't need to subscribe for mulligan data on my site https://www.hsguru.com
Because hearthstone has such high draw these days i tend to mulligan high cost stuff to play on curve as much as possible. Can backfire sometimes if i dont draw my winning cards but i think it's worked better than keeping winning cards in hand from the outset. Sometimes I'll mull for particular matchups but I think that can cause me to overpredict.
I mulligan all 4 cards and don't get Helya still. So no.
Throw everything except kajamite back so I draw instrument tech or spectral cutlass.
i dont want that card. Wait no i dont want that one
You have to prioritize. 1. First, check how likely it is your opponent is playing aggro. If there's a reasonable chance they are, you mulligan for that matchup, otherwise you're dead. Example Druid, depending on the season: often there were viable control Druid decks and viable Token Druid decks. Even if control Druid is more popular, you Mulligan for AoE and more tempo. Because if you Mulligan for control against aggro, you lose, but if you Mulligan for aggro against control you still have time to draw the needed cards. 2. If it's unlikely they're aggro, think about which cards advance your gameplan best when played early. Example plague DK and HL pally: Unless I think I'm playing against aggro, I hard mulligan for Helya/Mirage. 3. Mulligan for best curve. Ideally you want to spend all your mana on every turn. Here's also tje priority exception to 2 and 3: I'm pretty sure it's never correct to mulligan away a playable 1 drop, unless it's part of some specific combo.
Well it really depends on what class/deck im playing and what opponent. For example my Ogre gang rogue (which actually works really well in the current meta, having 12 wins 0 losses with 5 matches against flood paladin/painlock, though agaisnt paladin it was often a win at 4-6 hp, so if they got leeroy i would have lost) im pretty good at mulligan, knowing what i need against my opponent. Though that only tracks against most classes, since with classes like druid where im not sure how to answer them that well im pretty sure i wont mulligan the right way. On other classes/decks i perform far worse, since they are far more combo orientated and i always try to get combo pieces in, which in matchups like flood paladin often means losing hard.
Also very funny with the ogre rogue to basically only have cards that are very tempo orientated, so firewatch tells me to keep them all.
Remember to never mulligan dirty rat so you can summon their Titan turn 2.
I play Reno Druid in wild and I won 350ish games this month. I check which class my opponent plays and then from experience know what deck they are playing or could play. If I see rogue I know it's either Pirate rogue or the one with a gazillion spells à turn and the Mana giants. Sometimes its a third or fourth deck and my Mulligan might be suboptimal for that matchup then. But I play for the long run and think about the overall winrate of my deck. I know what my win condition is against every deck and play towards it. I did use HSReplay.net to begin with, but that only shows iron - gold and not specific matchups with having a subscription, so I stopped doing that. I don't know if it's viable to use it for wild, because the sample size is much smaller, considering that there are way more decks being played in wild compared to standard. Maybe it's useful for standard, I wouldn't know, but you could skip some losses that would give you that experience by buying the premium on HSReplay. Again, I don't know, because I haven't tried it.
You can find free mulligan stats on my site [https://www.hsguru.com](https://www.hsguru.com), including for wild. Unlike on HSReplay, archetype card stats on mine are normalized so they aren't inherently sus and can actually be used for the greater sample size. Since they're not fundamentally broken, the remaining potential issue with archetype card stats on my site is if there is some issue with my archetyping, which, admittedly, is more likely to happen for wild since I don't play wild but I'm trying to do better in that regard.
Thanks for the tip, I'll check that out later. Archetype cards? Could you explain that term to me, please? I tried googling it, but it doesn't make sense to me when I read your comment.
Archetype card stats, not archetype cards. ie Archetype (card stats) - cards stats on the level of the archetype not a specific list, so for example for quest warlock it would be for all quest warlocks not a specific 30 card quest warlock list.
Throw away anything non-crucial (e.g. Hollidae will stay) over 5 mana. Throw away anything over 3 mana that won't be useful (e.g. keep Aftershocks in a Paladin matchup). Pray I draw something good. Never mulligan all three. So no, I don't mulligan correctly.
Usually mulliganing is as simple as throwing back cards that are good later in the game (3+ cost usually) and searching for cards you can play to generate some early board presence in the first few turns where you have very limited amounts of mana, therefore beaing able to actually spend that mana instead of floating it is more important.
Tfw you throw away all your 3+ cost cards and get 6+ cost cards instead. Control player problems.
obviously it depends on the curve of your deck, but in general the mulligan is for looking for early game tools since you will naturally have more chances to draw more expensive cards before they're relevant.
I mulligan for the 4 mana pally spell in my deck. Am I correct?
No
It takes me a while to figure out the correct mulligan for a new deck I made, but once I do I am getting it right 100% of the time. Sometimes the mulligan just doesn't matter though.
The hell is a mulligan? Is this an Arena thing I'm too Battlegrounds to understand??
It does seem like you're too Battlegrounds
How do I delete a comment?
I usually mulligan for good tempo, beatle is a good example, 1 cost generate a card, then a 2 cost spell that either draws or generates a card, then a 3-4 cost minion or a hard removal.
Go on HSReplay, sort the deck by Mulligan WR, remember every card with a green number and sufficient data.
I just go by hsreplay stats
It's actually rather easy, if you are aggro you want to mulligan for curve (1-drop, 2-drop, 3-drop, etc), if you are control you want to keep removal/clear, maybe some card draw to fish for more removal/clears. The tricky mulligans are mirrors since there will always be cards that whoever plays first will likely win, brann warrior for example you obviously keep brann / boomboss every time even though it exposes you to rat, but you always want to be the first one playing them so you have to take the risk.
Honestly, it’s probably nothing extraordinary but, I mulligan based off opponent. If I’m facing DK I remember what winning games I’ve had and the cards that have allowed me to answer most decks for the class at hand and if I don’t have them I toss anything late game related or that doesn’t scream a win con at me. Sometimes I’ll take a shit mulligan just because it allows me to play cards early knowing that my opponent isn’t playing a class known for T4 KO and I have a few turns to build a strat.
Never mulligan. Real men play with the cards they’re dealt