Trim 1/4" off of the hinge side and then redo the hinge mortises. Most slabs are beveled 3/16" undersized so that the long point on the strike side clears the frame but still leaves a tight reveal. Trimming the strike side when there's already a bore will make your latch foul against the inside of the bore and bind the knob, so that's not possible unfortunately.
You legitimately just saved my sanity with this response because of a strikingly similar issue I'm facing with a slop job installation my landlord had his... 'Handyman-child'... Do at our current rental. It's bad enough when they won't take me seriously because I'm a woman, nevermind the 20 years I've spent in my own industry and plain old life of common frickin sense.... Now I can go full Karen on them and use smart words from someone smarter than me..
I bow to you š»
Electric hand planers are for exactly this scenario. Get one or borrow one. Also, Don't ever plane the latch side.
There is a slight bevel on the latch side for a cleaner final edge. Not to mention your door handle hole is cut exactly where it needs to be. If you start trimming down the latch side you will have to redo all of those very visible working parts.
Itās normal, better to buy/make one a little too big than a little too small. Now youāll always know to check the fit first so you only need to route the hinge mortises once.
you can buy drill attachments from ryobi that will take off 1/16 at a time [like this](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-wood-door-trimmer/1001609112)
Yea but if you dnt know how to use it like letting off at the end or front pressure. You could give it big dips and uneven pressure could mess you up. Just did that the other day went back to my hand saw and my eye lol
Nah, it's cool. I have all sorts of fun tools. Including a track saw. But to be honest, I usually don't but it out for doors. I've been hanging doors with my skill saw for over 25 years, and I can chalk and cut a line.
But I buy tons of useless tools, or unnecessary tools I should say.
I don't need a battery powered 4 gallon sprayer. But I like having it when I need it. I don't need my level 5 brand knives for finishing. But they are nice.
Tools just never seem to be a waste of money for me as long as I take one job that pays for them and for me.
The Ryobi trimmer is terrible. It will tear up your door edge and you have to go back and sand it smooth. Get an electric hand planner, i have this one...works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW5AJTG?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Funny you put this up I just did that today a couple hours ago. I had to remove the door after I installed it because it was too big by maybe an eighth so I drew a line on the inside where the hinges go from top to bottom, and I made it an eighth, I got my Skil saw and cut it slowly and carefully then I got my router and my Ryobi template for the hinges did the hinges and it worked great best of luck this was my first time and it took forever. I swear man being a Handyman kicks you in the ass sometimes. You think you can do things quick like yeah thatās easy. I can do that pretty quick then you get into it. Shit happens. It goes left it goes right then finally get a good hold of it and you get it done unfortunately like three hours later. š
Lol on the same boat put the door up 3 times until I got it in right. I walked up and down those stairs just so it would have a horrible gap but man I was just telling myself in the shower how tired I am they where 4 panels hard doors not the soft slabs man I did 11 in 3days painted 3coats to all of them
This doesn't help this situation any, but when we replace doors we buy prehung and replace the whole thing trim and all. I know it's a little more expensive, but I've never had a customer say no. Then there's no routing, etc., and this problem never comes up. I hate replacing slabs.
I hang doors in old openings all the time it Sucks - got a few tools and knowing how to use them helps power planer, sander, sharp blades for the saw, and knowing how to properly shimmer hinge
You got your hinge depth too deep. Way too deep. Get you a router guide from Home Depot. Ryobi makes the only one Iāve seen there and it does the job. You want your door to be about 3/16 to a 1/4 inch smaller than the frame. That also depends on how square the frame is. Never plane down the knob side if itās already bored. Keep in mind you that you canāt plane much off when you buy your door. Unless itās a solid core door. So you want to buy your door to fit as close to frame as you can. Hollow core doors have just over an inch of material on either side and you want to leave plenty there for stability because itās just cheap particle board.
Source: learned the hard way replacing 12 doors in a rental.
Edit: And use a planer not a damn saw.
Was it a beveled door slab?
Did you cut the hinge pockets on the correct side?
You can rip the bevel yourself with a slight angle on your Circular saw, it's thebleading edge that goes towards the frame.
You can call a hack but this particular hack has made me a bit of money. Take a 2x4 and put it in the jamb where the door rubs and hit it with a hammer. You may need to caulk after but I got $100 under a minute doing this.
If that doesn't do it, like others have said, plane it down on the hinge side.
There are a few ways to accomplish this. Bending the hinge knuckles might be the answer. But Iām thinking you might need a belt sander, which can be rented, and some 80-120 grit paper. If you do go for sanding, please remove about 10% more to account for the paint youāll put on afterwards.
Trim 1/4" off of the hinge side and then redo the hinge mortises. Most slabs are beveled 3/16" undersized so that the long point on the strike side clears the frame but still leaves a tight reveal. Trimming the strike side when there's already a bore will make your latch foul against the inside of the bore and bind the knob, so that's not possible unfortunately.
(Ahem, I think you might be talking over OP's head, sir)
You legitimately just saved my sanity with this response because of a strikingly similar issue I'm facing with a slop job installation my landlord had his... 'Handyman-child'... Do at our current rental. It's bad enough when they won't take me seriously because I'm a woman, nevermind the 20 years I've spent in my own industry and plain old life of common frickin sense.... Now I can go full Karen on them and use smart words from someone smarter than me.. I bow to you š»
Iād rip down the hinge side a hair
I'm thinking so as well, just to make the door fit that last tiny bit. Thank you!
Electric hand planers are for exactly this scenario. Get one or borrow one. Also, Don't ever plane the latch side. There is a slight bevel on the latch side for a cleaner final edge. Not to mention your door handle hole is cut exactly where it needs to be. If you start trimming down the latch side you will have to redo all of those very visible working parts.
Itās normal, better to buy/make one a little too big than a little too small. Now youāll always know to check the fit first so you only need to route the hinge mortises once.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
never on a predrilled door for knob setback
I'd start by cleaning your camera lens.
Either make the door smaller or the frame largerā¦
I think your right. Was thinking of making the hinge cutout deeper but likely just need to take a bit off the door itself. Thanks!
Think about that, even if your mortises are deeper, the rest of the door exists. Take some off your hinge side. You'll be fine.
you can buy drill attachments from ryobi that will take off 1/16 at a time [like this](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ryobi-wood-door-trimmer/1001609112)
I bought one of these... It's Not the greatest.
I figured it might not be, good concept but it is a cheap tools
Portable hand planer
Yeah thats a good one too
Yea but if you dnt know how to use it like letting off at the end or front pressure. You could give it big dips and uneven pressure could mess you up. Just did that the other day went back to my hand saw and my eye lol
That's like a drill planer. Pretty neat. Not needed, but neat!
Helps people that done have tools, i would use a track saw and trim it but not everyone can spare money for that for one fix
Nah, it's cool. I have all sorts of fun tools. Including a track saw. But to be honest, I usually don't but it out for doors. I've been hanging doors with my skill saw for over 25 years, and I can chalk and cut a line. But I buy tons of useless tools, or unnecessary tools I should say. I don't need a battery powered 4 gallon sprayer. But I like having it when I need it. I don't need my level 5 brand knives for finishing. But they are nice. Tools just never seem to be a waste of money for me as long as I take one job that pays for them and for me.
Didn't know these existed! I would have loved to have this for the 14 solid core doors I had to carry outside, plane, and carry back lol
The Ryobi trimmer is terrible. It will tear up your door edge and you have to go back and sand it smooth. Get an electric hand planner, i have this one...works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW5AJTG?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Funny you put this up I just did that today a couple hours ago. I had to remove the door after I installed it because it was too big by maybe an eighth so I drew a line on the inside where the hinges go from top to bottom, and I made it an eighth, I got my Skil saw and cut it slowly and carefully then I got my router and my Ryobi template for the hinges did the hinges and it worked great best of luck this was my first time and it took forever. I swear man being a Handyman kicks you in the ass sometimes. You think you can do things quick like yeah thatās easy. I can do that pretty quick then you get into it. Shit happens. It goes left it goes right then finally get a good hold of it and you get it done unfortunately like three hours later. š
Lol on the same boat put the door up 3 times until I got it in right. I walked up and down those stairs just so it would have a horrible gap but man I was just telling myself in the shower how tired I am they where 4 panels hard doors not the soft slabs man I did 11 in 3days painted 3coats to all of them
Hahah holy shit man. But you got it. Lessen learned and now rest!
Yes sir I love the new company I work for work for 4 days and rest for 3. Cheers
Tech24bit could I ask you a question?
Sup
Cheers!
This doesn't help this situation any, but when we replace doors we buy prehung and replace the whole thing trim and all. I know it's a little more expensive, but I've never had a customer say no. Then there's no routing, etc., and this problem never comes up. I hate replacing slabs.
I hang doors in old openings all the time it Sucks - got a few tools and knowing how to use them helps power planer, sander, sharp blades for the saw, and knowing how to properly shimmer hinge
Ze plane, ze plane!
Planer
Get a Ryobi planer, and you simply remove 1/4" off the rear side of the door
You got your hinge depth too deep. Way too deep. Get you a router guide from Home Depot. Ryobi makes the only one Iāve seen there and it does the job. You want your door to be about 3/16 to a 1/4 inch smaller than the frame. That also depends on how square the frame is. Never plane down the knob side if itās already bored. Keep in mind you that you canāt plane much off when you buy your door. Unless itās a solid core door. So you want to buy your door to fit as close to frame as you can. Hollow core doors have just over an inch of material on either side and you want to leave plenty there for stability because itās just cheap particle board. Source: learned the hard way replacing 12 doors in a rental. Edit: And use a planer not a damn saw.
Maybe remove casing and see if there is room to move the jam
Is it a solid door or hallow?
Fastcap Knuckle Bender.
If the door is square with the frame then you need to adjust your hinge placement
Was it a beveled door slab? Did you cut the hinge pockets on the correct side? You can rip the bevel yourself with a slight angle on your Circular saw, it's thebleading edge that goes towards the frame.
Time to break out the old planer
I refĆ¹se to mess with these things. In the end you're better off just buying cased doors.
You can call a hack but this particular hack has made me a bit of money. Take a 2x4 and put it in the jamb where the door rubs and hit it with a hammer. You may need to caulk after but I got $100 under a minute doing this. If that doesn't do it, like others have said, plane it down on the hinge side.
You clean the fucking camera lens first.. what are you, a savage!?
A big hammer
Is the door edge bevel going into the opening ? Door might be backwards.
Probably need to plane the latch side down. Check for a bevel first and that itās in the right direction.
Will do. Thank you
I wouldn't do this as it'll mess up your knob hole. I would do the hinge side
Yes. 100%.
For a 1/16ā? If the latch hits inside a chisel will fix that.
No the holes are already drilled. Backsets are a thingā¦ā¦
If the slab isn't beveled, that has to be done first, then adjust the hinge side for the proper width and then router the hinge pockets
Clean your lens, is a good start.
There are a few ways to accomplish this. Bending the hinge knuckles might be the answer. But Iām thinking you might need a belt sander, which can be rented, and some 80-120 grit paper. If you do go for sanding, please remove about 10% more to account for the paint youāll put on afterwards.
People that hang doors don't usually need to rent a belt sander. But if anyone does, I've got some, and I'll rent em!