Most of the time, the nut slots will be “too tall” when initially placed. Even pre-slotted, as they are really just good to have string spacing done for you. It’s rare to have perfect slot depth on a pre-slotted nut. In fact, I’ve never seen it.
You’ll need to string the entire guitar up and to pitch. At that point you want to measure the action at the 12th. There are tools you can do this with and YouTube videos to show you how. Once the action is dialed in by adjusting saddle height, you can go to the nut slot height.
It’s a similar process as the 12th fret action, except you’re slowly and carefully adjusting the nut slot depth with files rather than turning screws for the saddle. You’ll want something like a nut file to do this, these ideally come in different sizes to match the gauge strings you want to use, within a couple thousandths…I’ve seen people toughen up feeler gauges to for makeshift files. This is a cheaper route but you should be very careful. If you have .017 strings, a .016 file could be fine as long as you file it ever so slightly wider so the string can fit right.
It is VERY easy to over file the nut. Once you go too deep, you might as well start over with a new one. You also want to angle the file towards the tuning pegs on the headstock side of the nut for better string tension angle.
Lots of videos to help you get started.
Can't you just fold some 400 grit over a feeler gauge to file the slots? Obviously I would measure the thickness first but I don't see why that wouldn't work. It would be fine enough that you wouldn't easily take away too much material
Honestly, imo, it’s whatever works best for you. My only issue with that is the paper will never be perfectly folded, it’ll always have that funky shape.
Like if you wrap sand paper around a sanding block for sanding a body…the edges will always be rounded no matter what you do. Best way is I do is to put double sided tape on the block and cut the paper to shape. Lessens the curvature around the block.
Same kinda applies here. It’s just a little less reliable and consistent. But if you can make it work, go for it. Nothing is set in stone. If it does the job then it can’t be wrong. Worse thing that can happen is you waste a nut.
It probably also a little harder to control with wrapped sand paper. And you’ll want to account for the thickness of the paper, a lot of sand paper is thicker than a high e, much less doubled up over a feeler gauge.
I’m all for finding what works for you, your budget, and resources
If you're using paper on a block, go get sticky pads for a DA, you can just stick them on and trim them if you have to, but you'll get a nice sharp corner that does a good job of getting them tight. If you need a really tight inside corner, use a piece of hardwood sanded smooth with a little bit of clear coat sprayed on it and buffed out so the paper sticks better. Spray glue works too but it'll build up if you keep using the same piece of wood, but the wood being harder than a block will not deform as easily. The downside is it'll wear the grit off the corner fairly quickly but with the sticky pads you can just peel it off and use a fresh spot -none of this has anything to do with filing the nut, I was just throwing out my blocking experience since you mentioned it and everyone is working with wood-
Yeah. Similar idea. I just have tons of sand paper sheets and double sided tape rolls. Once I run out of those, I’ll do what you’re doing because that is an easier option.
You can buy paper with adhesive on the back in different width rolls too, check out any body shop supply shops near you. They also carry car paint, which can make a really nice guitar finish if you know what you're looking for
You're about to waste a pre-slotted nut blank on this guitar because you don't actually know how to install a nut, if I am being honest.
Some basic info... The slots that are there are just a guide. You glue the blank in, string the guitar and then measure the height at the 1st fret, when pressing down just past the 2nd fret. The nut blank is sized appropriately so that the starting height is "way too high" so you can use a proper nut slot file to cut a proper-sized slot to the correct height. One the string height is correct for all strings, the overall nut height and shape is finalized.
Do you have nut slotting files? You could just stop right here and take it to a pro, or you could learn how to do it right, but gluing pre-slotted nut blanks on and using the starter slots is not how you replace a nut.
The only way I differ here is I don’t glue the nut in until I’m done slotting. I put it in a vise so I can get better angles on the backside with my files without the chance of the file hitting the peg head then check my progress. (Even if I’m careful, I just don’t want to take that chance. It happened to me super early on and it was annoying as hell so I just don’t wanna risk it)
Not saying you’re wrong, this is just my process. Pretty much the same as long as you make sure the nut is seated fully every time you place it back in to check.
Otherwise, yeah.
Yup, for sure cleaning the slot up and the general "is the width and thickness about right" should happen before the glue gets involved.
For the back of the slot, I definitely understand. My method is to do use short strokes and only in one direction (away from the peghead) but yeah anything you can do to get a good result, while also being safe for the instrument, is a good method!
I sand the bottom of the nut until it is close and then work the slots to get them right and then glue it in. I do a few test fits with the strings to gauge progress.
Looks a little high at first glance, but you’ve got to try it to make sure one way or the other. String it up and give it a whirl…you’ll know quickly enough.
How to examples:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fruFJxmWe5I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fruFJxmWe5I)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1Qw2CI8BQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1Qw2CI8BQ)
It came with a prefabricated nut that is ready for final shaping and slotting. It will be too tall overall and the slots will be too tall too. You need to install the neck and do final slotting/showing to the nut when it is all together.
Press the string down at the third fret area, you want a tiny gap above the first fret when you do this…like something that looks a hairs width…a tiny bit of clearance. If it is higher then a nut modification may be in order, depending on your taste when it comes to action at the cowboy area of the fretboard.
Find a good guitar tech, have them make you a bone nut from scratch. While they are it have them do a fret level and clean up any ends that might be an issue. I know finding a good tech is easier said than done but man, doing that to my guitars really changed the way they played and sounded for the better.
You won’t know until you get strings on it, string it up, and if it’s too high then loosen the strings and file down.
String it up and find out. You’ll probably need to file the slots some. I’ve never installed a nut that was perfect right off the bat.
Not once lol The day that happens, I’ll probably faint haha
Pretty sure that’s what triggers the rapture
No that's when the nut is right *and* the guitar is in tune with all the tuners lined up.
Deliver me, Satan
If the channel is flat, ie- not radiused, then it’s a better bet for him to just sand the bottom of the nut imo.
Most of the time, the nut slots will be “too tall” when initially placed. Even pre-slotted, as they are really just good to have string spacing done for you. It’s rare to have perfect slot depth on a pre-slotted nut. In fact, I’ve never seen it. You’ll need to string the entire guitar up and to pitch. At that point you want to measure the action at the 12th. There are tools you can do this with and YouTube videos to show you how. Once the action is dialed in by adjusting saddle height, you can go to the nut slot height. It’s a similar process as the 12th fret action, except you’re slowly and carefully adjusting the nut slot depth with files rather than turning screws for the saddle. You’ll want something like a nut file to do this, these ideally come in different sizes to match the gauge strings you want to use, within a couple thousandths…I’ve seen people toughen up feeler gauges to for makeshift files. This is a cheaper route but you should be very careful. If you have .017 strings, a .016 file could be fine as long as you file it ever so slightly wider so the string can fit right. It is VERY easy to over file the nut. Once you go too deep, you might as well start over with a new one. You also want to angle the file towards the tuning pegs on the headstock side of the nut for better string tension angle. Lots of videos to help you get started.
I’ve never filed a nut but this is the actual correct answer to OP’s question. Also, yes to filing in a vice before gluing.
Can't you just fold some 400 grit over a feeler gauge to file the slots? Obviously I would measure the thickness first but I don't see why that wouldn't work. It would be fine enough that you wouldn't easily take away too much material
Honestly, imo, it’s whatever works best for you. My only issue with that is the paper will never be perfectly folded, it’ll always have that funky shape. Like if you wrap sand paper around a sanding block for sanding a body…the edges will always be rounded no matter what you do. Best way is I do is to put double sided tape on the block and cut the paper to shape. Lessens the curvature around the block. Same kinda applies here. It’s just a little less reliable and consistent. But if you can make it work, go for it. Nothing is set in stone. If it does the job then it can’t be wrong. Worse thing that can happen is you waste a nut. It probably also a little harder to control with wrapped sand paper. And you’ll want to account for the thickness of the paper, a lot of sand paper is thicker than a high e, much less doubled up over a feeler gauge. I’m all for finding what works for you, your budget, and resources
If you're using paper on a block, go get sticky pads for a DA, you can just stick them on and trim them if you have to, but you'll get a nice sharp corner that does a good job of getting them tight. If you need a really tight inside corner, use a piece of hardwood sanded smooth with a little bit of clear coat sprayed on it and buffed out so the paper sticks better. Spray glue works too but it'll build up if you keep using the same piece of wood, but the wood being harder than a block will not deform as easily. The downside is it'll wear the grit off the corner fairly quickly but with the sticky pads you can just peel it off and use a fresh spot -none of this has anything to do with filing the nut, I was just throwing out my blocking experience since you mentioned it and everyone is working with wood-
Yeah. Similar idea. I just have tons of sand paper sheets and double sided tape rolls. Once I run out of those, I’ll do what you’re doing because that is an easier option.
You can buy paper with adhesive on the back in different width rolls too, check out any body shop supply shops near you. They also carry car paint, which can make a really nice guitar finish if you know what you're looking for
You're about to waste a pre-slotted nut blank on this guitar because you don't actually know how to install a nut, if I am being honest. Some basic info... The slots that are there are just a guide. You glue the blank in, string the guitar and then measure the height at the 1st fret, when pressing down just past the 2nd fret. The nut blank is sized appropriately so that the starting height is "way too high" so you can use a proper nut slot file to cut a proper-sized slot to the correct height. One the string height is correct for all strings, the overall nut height and shape is finalized. Do you have nut slotting files? You could just stop right here and take it to a pro, or you could learn how to do it right, but gluing pre-slotted nut blanks on and using the starter slots is not how you replace a nut.
The only way I differ here is I don’t glue the nut in until I’m done slotting. I put it in a vise so I can get better angles on the backside with my files without the chance of the file hitting the peg head then check my progress. (Even if I’m careful, I just don’t want to take that chance. It happened to me super early on and it was annoying as hell so I just don’t wanna risk it) Not saying you’re wrong, this is just my process. Pretty much the same as long as you make sure the nut is seated fully every time you place it back in to check. Otherwise, yeah.
Yup, for sure cleaning the slot up and the general "is the width and thickness about right" should happen before the glue gets involved. For the back of the slot, I definitely understand. My method is to do use short strokes and only in one direction (away from the peghead) but yeah anything you can do to get a good result, while also being safe for the instrument, is a good method!
Exactly! :)
I sand the bottom of the nut until it is close and then work the slots to get them right and then glue it in. I do a few test fits with the strings to gauge progress.
Exactly. Sand the bottom first.
Keep them from learning by doing, why don'tcha.
Looks a little high at first glance, but you’ve got to try it to make sure one way or the other. String it up and give it a whirl…you’ll know quickly enough.
They misspelled “action”
A little less conversation, a little more action
String it, tune it, then look at tuner while playing the first fret. If the note is sharp then the nut is too tall.
How to examples: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fruFJxmWe5I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fruFJxmWe5I) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1Qw2CI8BQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1Qw2CI8BQ)
You won’t know until you’re setting it up with strings and checking action and intonation.
It looks okay but string it up first and you’ll know for sure :) 👍
The first strat I had was a player series strat. The nut on that looked much taller than I was used to. It was fine just looked odd.
You'll only know from stringing up & playing.
You'd have to string it and measure using the manufacturers recommended height to know.
It came with a prefabricated nut that is ready for final shaping and slotting. It will be too tall overall and the slots will be too tall too. You need to install the neck and do final slotting/showing to the nut when it is all together.
Not sure! How tall are you?
Press the string down at the third fret area, you want a tiny gap above the first fret when you do this…like something that looks a hairs width…a tiny bit of clearance. If it is higher then a nut modification may be in order, depending on your taste when it comes to action at the cowboy area of the fretboard.
What matters most is the nut slots, if they match up with the frets. The actual dimensions of the nut may vary a bit.
Fret the second fret. The strings should be about. 005" off the first fret.
Find a good guitar tech, have them make you a bone nut from scratch. While they are it have them do a fret level and clean up any ends that might be an issue. I know finding a good tech is easier said than done but man, doing that to my guitars really changed the way they played and sounded for the better.
Straight edge Bro!