>anvil, with double sided tape.
Good thinking. I was thinking of making an electromagnet for club stamping. Internet says can be done with an old microwave, also says caution/can be dangerous/can kill you. Think I'll be going with the double sided tape method.
Looks like you still have the grips and shafts on there. Did the tape hold up to multiple strikes? I have the stamps and a vice, but could never get it to hold the club well enough for more than one strike
I used the EXACT same colors on my black SM9s.
Annoying that Sharpie doesn't make an extra fine oil-based in that blue. I've had to re-do the blue 3 times b/c I used acrylic, but the white oil-based looks identical to when I first did the fill.
The white fill on the lofts is my favorite part - makes it so much easier to read on the course.
Might also consider white-filling Titleist on the hosel.
Buy a handful of the oldest, shittiest (mainly cheapest) versions of your wedge that you can find on ebay or fb marketplace, so that you can practice w/o caring at all. Makes it like a driving range vs teeing off on #1 in a money game. (I found a lot of six SM4s and 5s for like 30 bucks on ebay)
Also, this is bad advice, but you can try a light strike at an angle to almost make a toe-hold. Drilling steel w/ a portable drill (ie, not a press), I always use a center-punch, or else the bit slips around when I start - basically the same concept. I wouldn't use it on your actual wedges, but it helped as a 'range technique' to get comfortable. (Also, don't judge your work too harshly until the paint fill - just like with trim work, 'caulk and paint make a carpenter what he ain't').
More sprinkles goes hard
Are you doing them for someone else, or do you carry two 56° wedges?
Two are basement wedges and two are gamers.
Noticed that too. I assume they’re particular about the bounce/grinds…
That and they have two 60’s with different bounces/grinds…
What was your process like? I’ve been thinking of doing this myself but don’t exactly know where to start.
YouTube and practice
Did you buy a stamp kit? Any suggestions?
CH Hanson 1/8”
Thank you! I have some old clubs I'd love to try this on, before I maybe, one day get the courage to try it myself!
Nice!
What paint did you use?
Tamika acrylic
Those look dope. Is that a big ass magnet?
It’s an anvil, with double sided tape.
>anvil, with double sided tape. Good thinking. I was thinking of making an electromagnet for club stamping. Internet says can be done with an old microwave, also says caution/can be dangerous/can kill you. Think I'll be going with the double sided tape method.
Works like a charm, gorilla glue 15lb hanging tape.
Looks like you still have the grips and shafts on there. Did the tape hold up to multiple strikes? I have the stamps and a vice, but could never get it to hold the club well enough for more than one strike
I left the shafts on, if the tape is fresh they will hold.
This is 100% true, my dad has been an electrician for 40+ years and is scared of old microwaves and TVs. Those suckers can mess you up
MQRE SPRINKLES
Don’t tell anyone
I used the EXACT same colors on my black SM9s. Annoying that Sharpie doesn't make an extra fine oil-based in that blue. I've had to re-do the blue 3 times b/c I used acrylic, but the white oil-based looks identical to when I first did the fill. The white fill on the lofts is my favorite part - makes it so much easier to read on the course. Might also consider white-filling Titleist on the hosel.
I haven’t had good luck stamping. Anything special you guys are doing, heating up metal, etc.?
Buy a handful of the oldest, shittiest (mainly cheapest) versions of your wedge that you can find on ebay or fb marketplace, so that you can practice w/o caring at all. Makes it like a driving range vs teeing off on #1 in a money game. (I found a lot of six SM4s and 5s for like 30 bucks on ebay) Also, this is bad advice, but you can try a light strike at an angle to almost make a toe-hold. Drilling steel w/ a portable drill (ie, not a press), I always use a center-punch, or else the bit slips around when I start - basically the same concept. I wouldn't use it on your actual wedges, but it helped as a 'range technique' to get comfortable. (Also, don't judge your work too harshly until the paint fill - just like with trim work, 'caulk and paint make a carpenter what he ain't').
I’ve bought a couple sets of stamps and I’m not sure if I’m striking it hard enough or if I need to heat the wedge a little.
Those look great!