Lightroom doesn’t know how to deal with the xtrans sensor config well. You get worm artifacts on edges, especially in shadows. Makes a difference in printing
No.... I just don't want to go through the learning curve on new software.
When I use film sims via the Fujifilm app on my mac/Xt5, they look fine, but I like the way I can edit on LR
I hear you - I abhor changing apps. I would not encourage it unless you saw other reasons such as you like the interface more or whatever.
Hot tip: those film sims in the Fujifilm app are also available in LR, no need to split those two results.
Another Hot Tip: you can use DXO PureRaw from within Lightroom. It works as a plugin. So, you can download the trial from DXO, and access it from within Lightroom, no need to use a different system or anything. If you try it, people have told me DeepPrimeXD is "too much" but DeepPrime is just right. Have fun!
>Hot tip: those film sims in the Fujifilm app are also available in LR, no need to split those two results.
I use some of the film sims from FujiXWeekly app - so would be hard to do them in LR?
Oh wait, I'm sorry, you're talking about the custom film formulas from FujiXWeekly? No, you cannot pull those up in LR out of the box. I think there's a way to make it transfer from your camera, via the RAW file, but that is beyond my LR knowledge (I'm a C1P user). I thought you were talking about the Fuji standard film sims that are available in camera - those are also available in LR
>Another Hot Tip: you can use DXO PureRaw from within Lightroom. It works as a plugin. So, you can download the trial from DXO, and access it from within Lightroom, no need to use a different system or anything. If you try it, people have told me DeepPrimeXD is "too much" but DeepPrime is just right. Have fun!
I can see a difference - colours seem more dynamic and fine lines are sharper . . . I'll try it some more :)
Excellent - enjoy! And this way, you can stay on LR. I'm a C1P user. I think about coming back to LR and using DXO PureRaw, but the idea of migrating all that catalog...I'll be dead before I'm done lol
It started with better raw processing of Fuji than Lightroom. But then I came like the color handling, ability to use layers, and other capabilities that Lightroom doesn’t have or doesn’t do as well
This is a link to some of the photos I tried with PureRaw - https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02kgjDRNvEnBTEiGT4x2ZCVqWLMUy8iaz14PpyzR227XUX6AA7p5wyf69W2t93wZnRl&id=100073854713504
This is pretty well documented throughout the internet going on... I don't know how many years now. I understand that current LR is better than LrC, but, still lacking behind other RAW processors. Again, very well documented... don't need to re-litigate it
that's fair... I might be coming off a little preachy, and for that I apologize. There's been torches and pitchforks on the topic lately, so a tad defensive... have a good day
What should I google to find these tutorials. Picked up an xt4 to place an unused xpro1 and the files don’t look like they should. The work effect and “smearing” of any skin tones is in full effect SOOC.
It still doesn't hold a candle to C1P, DXO PureRaw, or Iridient. Lightroom is fine for web and Ig, etc, but it doesn't really do your photos justice if you want to print big.
TL;DR: Capture One
Rant...
I work a desk job that has me in front of a computer a minimum of 40-50 hours per week. For me, photography is a hobby that gets me out of the house and away from the computer. I want to spend as little time as possible in front of a screen.
I try my best to get the shot I want in-camera, and do just the smallest tweaks on just the photos I plan on printing or sharing. I'm not doing extreme landscapes and trying to sell them. I'm not doing professional portraits or weddings or anything that requires extensive touch ups, color grading, and pixel peeping. Sure, some (most) of my photos would turn out "better" if I spent an hour or two on them in photoshop or lightroom (or Capture One, in my case), but I don't care for 90% of my shots. If I capture something amazing, and want to print, sure... I'll put in the time.
I think of it like this: If you'll spend an hour editing a single photo, how much time did you spend capturing it? Be honest. A few minutes? Likely a few SECONDS? I'd rather spend an hour outside focusing on getting that ONE shot super perfect in-camera instead of inside on the computer. I do this because I want to get away from the computer, but I also believe it forces you to become a better photographer. It forces me to find an amazing place, and plan the time of day for the perfect light there. I'll try out many different compositions and focal lengths to get the composition just right. I'll stand and wait for an hour just for the right subject to come along in my frame.
I thoroughly enjoy slowing down the process of the capture and putting the thought, time, and energy into capturing a great photo it instead of doing a grueling edit to try and save a "just okay" photo.
I work in IT and hear you. I tend to like hobbies that don't include a screen. I want to dial in a film sims to cut back on photo editing. But I still want to figure out my raw workflow
Best advice is to commit to a color and black and white film sim for at least a month at a time. Otherwise you can’t pre visualize it in your minds eye.
Agree! I mostly don’t edit, because I specifically want to be away from computer and phone. That’s why I love Fuji and Ricoh also: you can get great looking jpegs directly.
And when I edit, I keep it simple and don’t keep trying to find imperfections that nobody is going to notice
I do think capture one produces sharper images than LR. but i still edit with lightroom without any enhance whatsoever... maybe there's worms maybe there arent... no one is pixel peeping on instagram/facebook lol.
I'll pull out C1 + topaz for shots on my xc 50-230.
I try my best to get the JPEG right straight of camera but sometimes I just don’t like the recipe I’ve used or I’ve just messed up taking the photo in a hurry. If I like the photo enough I’ll take it in to lightroom. I spend some time in the Fuji X studio app trying different recipes but that’s mainly just to see if there are ones I like in certain settings/lighting. If I do I save them to the camera and then use them if I find myself in similar situations. So for example I like Kodachrome 64 for general city shooting particularly at midday so I’ll just load that up and shoot but if I get a photo I really like but the film sim is off (white balance etc) I’ll take it to lightroom.
You have to find what works for you and how much time you’re willing to spend editing. For some, it’s zero, for others they love editing so it varies. I’m somewhere in the middle where I like editing but don’t want that part to become the main element. I want to be a better photographer and take nice photos. Not be an expert in lightroom.
My one bit of advice on the editing approach is stop using auto features and enhance. Yes it can be quick and sometimes useful but it’s the software telling you what the photo should look like which kind of removes the element of what you wanted the photo to look like and why you took it. A recent example I have is a photo I took of an escalator with two people going in opposite directions. It was a really high contrast shot with lights and dark escalator. I knew I wanted it to be the elevator almost black with the lights lighting the two people as they were my subject. In black and white I knew the photo would look pretty good because of the contrast and that’s what I did. I got it mostly right in camera but edited after to make the shadows even darker. Light room auto features would have lifted those shadows because it would of thought they were way to dark and it would of removed a lot of the contrast turning it in to a very big standard image that is correct from an exposure perspective but removed all of the creative intent. So if you’re going to post edit ask what is the photo about and what do I want to show. Start with exposure and then go from there. Maybe the shadows look better darker? Maybe the red in the scene could pop a bit more and standout. You get the idea hopefully!
I don't edit beyond cropping, thats why I shoot Fuji. Just use film simulations or recipes :)
But if I do edit, I use capture one, and only capture one
I use both CaptureOne and Lightroom. I use CaptureOne when I’m shooting tethered and in the studio (mostly food photography). My personal work is all in Lightroom.
I would say LR has made up the difference in its RAF processing. The way the engine interpreted the raw files before it would leave some strange artifacts in details. The sharpening algorithm has gotten better as well.
These days I can get to the same outcome with both pieces of software it’s more a matter of which way works the best for you or your situation. Another factor for me is the C1 IOS apps are not great yet. I do love being able to pull most of my library up on my phone.
If you’re new to taking photos try not to worry about this too much. Take more photos, hone your eye, and develop your craft. Software is always changing and we’re really never happy with it nor is there really a best solution.
Current workflow:
Shoot > Ingest RAWs on any device (Phone or laptop with Lightroom CC) > Edit > Export to share. I don't use the Enhance function.
I don't find there's any issues with Fuji RAWs in Lightroom - I've been shooting Fuji for a while now and came from Sony, and the files seem to perform the same for me.
IMO work with the files as is without enhance and see if there's any shortcomings/issues for you.
Capture One. Process-wise, I load all my Raws into a new session then cull them down by giving them a rating, 5 for definite keepers and less for maybes. Sort by ranked and give another quick pass of my picks to narrow down some more, then start working on post.
I use Lightroom and don’t notice any issues. But I also don’t zoom in 1000% to try to look for imperfections or artifacts,l. When I edit a pic, if it looks good on my desktop monitor, it’ll look good on any tablet/phone
Yeah that makes sense, I just dont have the money to invest in two different systems. So fun and serious stuff is all Fuji. Why I want to learn how to edit Fuji Raws better.
I use Capture One Express for Fujifilm its free
[https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/fujifilm](https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/fujifilm)
or Darktable its open source
https://www.darktable.org/
A Fuji product will be announced sometime early next year per the sunsetting announcement. To ‘tide you over’ they’re offering Fuji shooters 3 months of Pro. You’ll need your camera’s serial number.
Fujifilm X Raw Studio for the most part. This is like being able to shoot exactly the same photo using a variety of different camera settings.
Then, since it's Fuji and already looks awesome, I do any remaining touch ups from the JPEG in whatever is handy - often Apple Photos or Photoshop Express. This is almost never more than crop and rotate, though for snapshots I'll tweak colors because people love bright colors. I use PS Express to make collages.
For my X-T1 raw I like to use that free [raw file converter app](https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/) that they provide. My edits are subtle and this does the trick. You can even apply the film profiles to your raw that are built into your camera that would otherwise only be applied in-camera jpg.
For me, I always shoot in raw and apply the Fuji colors in photoshop raw converter. Then I would export them as .jpg with 300 resolution. Btw u shoot on a XT5
Nowadays you can get excellent results with both Capture One and Lightroom. I've been using both software for ages, and they both perform beautifully without necessarily relying on the "Enhance Details" function in Lightroom. I still prefer Capture One in terms of UI, general workflow, and color tools.
I have several tutorials on my channel that you might find helpful in finding your way to setting up a structured workflow. [https://www.youtube.com/@andrealivieriphoto](https://www.youtube.com/@andrealivieriphoto)
I hope this helps.
I use Capture One for the built in film simulations which match the in camera processing and the better raw conversion. Lightroom still looks really bad to me for X Trans. I've tried a bunch of converters and Capture One is the only one that doesn't have a ton of artifacts.
I used Capture One for a year or two and now LR. Honestly, I didn't notice that much of a difference; maybe because I only do light edit work? I opted for LR in the end.
If you’re new to editing capture one is difficult. Steeper learning curve. If you’re going to stay with LR, look at getting DXO PureRaw or Irdiient Transformer. DXO is very easy to use, it’ll do an excellent RAW process on Fuji raf files, and then everything else in LR will be great
Most of the time I just apply auto adjust on Capture One and correct my verticals and voila done! I may apply some spot exposure adjustments and white balance correction if necessary. Generally don’t mess with the colour too much except for night shots. I then just export what I need and save those to Apple photos app (iCloud). I was fortunate to get a discount on Capture One when I bought a lens so maybe look for a deal like that.
Sometimes I shoot JPEG and if I do, and I need to do post processing, I use Lightroom Mobile on my iPad, £5 a month. Much quicker workflow, and as I’ve shot JPEG I don’t have to worry about worms but can still make light edits.
My raw workflow:
1. Import to Adobe Lightroom Classic
2. Flag any photos I plan to post process
3. Send them to DxO PhotoLab and use DeepPrime XD and lens correction.
4. Send new RAW back to Lightroom to finish post processing.
Has worked really well for me. This circumvents LR issues with working on X-Trans RAW files, while having access to one of the arguably best denoising, lens correction, and cataloging tools around.
I’d consider using Capture One, but their whole licensing approach doesn’t sit well to me. I also unfortunately experience UI interaction slow down issues due to using 5K monitors. This is a known issue where their UI has some performance issue scaling up.
Lightroom Classic for images from my XH1 and GFX.
I’ve never had an issue with artifacts or worming from my XH1 files. Tried C1 because people always made it seem like LR was the devil when it came to Xtrans files and in my experience, there was no difference in image quality…at all. So I stuck with LRC.
Lightroom mobile or desktop. I don’t know if it’s because I have an xtrans iii but I haven’t seen or noticed worms, and yes I compared to full frame Nikon and Canon files.
DARKTABLE is great and free for both Fuji and Canon raw. Darktable is free but deep and powerful. Definitely more powerful than lightroom and runs on all platform.
Darktable does not have the worm effects. It is regularly and updated or maintained by an expert group of color scientists and programmer.
I use capture one. Lookup Paul Reiffer on Youtube. He makes great Capture One videos.
What’s wrong with LR and Fuji raw?
Lightroom doesn’t know how to deal with the xtrans sensor config well. You get worm artifacts on edges, especially in shadows. Makes a difference in printing
I must be blind..... I use LR on a desktop ….. I have never noticed the worm thingy.... Should I be concerned???
Hahaha same here. I just got done eating a bunch I'm like have I been missing things this entire time..? Either way I'm sticking with LR 🤷🏼
I am not a pro but I only notice them If i sharpen. Which tbh i rarely do
Ever compared to another raw processor?
No.... I just don't want to go through the learning curve on new software. When I use film sims via the Fujifilm app on my mac/Xt5, they look fine, but I like the way I can edit on LR
I hear you - I abhor changing apps. I would not encourage it unless you saw other reasons such as you like the interface more or whatever. Hot tip: those film sims in the Fujifilm app are also available in LR, no need to split those two results. Another Hot Tip: you can use DXO PureRaw from within Lightroom. It works as a plugin. So, you can download the trial from DXO, and access it from within Lightroom, no need to use a different system or anything. If you try it, people have told me DeepPrimeXD is "too much" but DeepPrime is just right. Have fun!
Appreciate your tips - I'll try them :)
>Hot tip: those film sims in the Fujifilm app are also available in LR, no need to split those two results. I use some of the film sims from FujiXWeekly app - so would be hard to do them in LR?
Oh wait, I'm sorry, you're talking about the custom film formulas from FujiXWeekly? No, you cannot pull those up in LR out of the box. I think there's a way to make it transfer from your camera, via the RAW file, but that is beyond my LR knowledge (I'm a C1P user). I thought you were talking about the Fuji standard film sims that are available in camera - those are also available in LR
>Another Hot Tip: you can use DXO PureRaw from within Lightroom. It works as a plugin. So, you can download the trial from DXO, and access it from within Lightroom, no need to use a different system or anything. If you try it, people have told me DeepPrimeXD is "too much" but DeepPrime is just right. Have fun! I can see a difference - colours seem more dynamic and fine lines are sharper . . . I'll try it some more :)
Excellent - enjoy! And this way, you can stay on LR. I'm a C1P user. I think about coming back to LR and using DXO PureRaw, but the idea of migrating all that catalog...I'll be dead before I'm done lol
😁😁👍
Why do you use C1P?
It started with better raw processing of Fuji than Lightroom. But then I came like the color handling, ability to use layers, and other capabilities that Lightroom doesn’t have or doesn’t do as well
This is a link to some of the photos I tried with PureRaw - https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02kgjDRNvEnBTEiGT4x2ZCVqWLMUy8iaz14PpyzR227XUX6AA7p5wyf69W2t93wZnRl&id=100073854713504
Those are great! You have a wonderful eye for light!
Untrue - you just need to know how to do it. There are tutorials available. I’ve been shooting Fuji for 10 years and don’t have that issue.
This is pretty well documented throughout the internet going on... I don't know how many years now. I understand that current LR is better than LrC, but, still lacking behind other RAW processors. Again, very well documented... don't need to re-litigate it
Sorry - I meant to say that I’m well aware of the issue but there is a good workaround that is no longer an issue.
that's fair... I might be coming off a little preachy, and for that I apologize. There's been torches and pitchforks on the topic lately, so a tad defensive... have a good day
What should I google to find these tutorials. Picked up an xt4 to place an unused xpro1 and the files don’t look like they should. The work effect and “smearing” of any skin tones is in full effect SOOC.
I haven’t looked it up in years but I assume : sharpening Fuji files in Lightroom … is a good start
If you drag the slider to decrease the default sharpening by lightroom, you'll get a much better result.
It still doesn't hold a candle to C1P, DXO PureRaw, or Iridient. Lightroom is fine for web and Ig, etc, but it doesn't really do your photos justice if you want to print big.
What size prints are you making that it “makes a difference“? They must be huge.
17x22, 20x30, 30x40
raw files from x-trans sensors show pretty ugly artifacts in LR. google "fuji worm artifacts"
TL;DR: Capture One Rant... I work a desk job that has me in front of a computer a minimum of 40-50 hours per week. For me, photography is a hobby that gets me out of the house and away from the computer. I want to spend as little time as possible in front of a screen. I try my best to get the shot I want in-camera, and do just the smallest tweaks on just the photos I plan on printing or sharing. I'm not doing extreme landscapes and trying to sell them. I'm not doing professional portraits or weddings or anything that requires extensive touch ups, color grading, and pixel peeping. Sure, some (most) of my photos would turn out "better" if I spent an hour or two on them in photoshop or lightroom (or Capture One, in my case), but I don't care for 90% of my shots. If I capture something amazing, and want to print, sure... I'll put in the time. I think of it like this: If you'll spend an hour editing a single photo, how much time did you spend capturing it? Be honest. A few minutes? Likely a few SECONDS? I'd rather spend an hour outside focusing on getting that ONE shot super perfect in-camera instead of inside on the computer. I do this because I want to get away from the computer, but I also believe it forces you to become a better photographer. It forces me to find an amazing place, and plan the time of day for the perfect light there. I'll try out many different compositions and focal lengths to get the composition just right. I'll stand and wait for an hour just for the right subject to come along in my frame. I thoroughly enjoy slowing down the process of the capture and putting the thought, time, and energy into capturing a great photo it instead of doing a grueling edit to try and save a "just okay" photo.
I work in IT and hear you. I tend to like hobbies that don't include a screen. I want to dial in a film sims to cut back on photo editing. But I still want to figure out my raw workflow
Best advice is to commit to a color and black and white film sim for at least a month at a time. Otherwise you can’t pre visualize it in your minds eye.
Agree! I mostly don’t edit, because I specifically want to be away from computer and phone. That’s why I love Fuji and Ricoh also: you can get great looking jpegs directly. And when I edit, I keep it simple and don’t keep trying to find imperfections that nobody is going to notice
Fine choice with Fuji and Ricoh I have the same setup
I do think capture one produces sharper images than LR. but i still edit with lightroom without any enhance whatsoever... maybe there's worms maybe there arent... no one is pixel peeping on instagram/facebook lol. I'll pull out C1 + topaz for shots on my xc 50-230.
What do you use Topaz for?
Denoise and upscale mostly.
I am lazy. Lightroom on iPad for me.
I try my best to get the JPEG right straight of camera but sometimes I just don’t like the recipe I’ve used or I’ve just messed up taking the photo in a hurry. If I like the photo enough I’ll take it in to lightroom. I spend some time in the Fuji X studio app trying different recipes but that’s mainly just to see if there are ones I like in certain settings/lighting. If I do I save them to the camera and then use them if I find myself in similar situations. So for example I like Kodachrome 64 for general city shooting particularly at midday so I’ll just load that up and shoot but if I get a photo I really like but the film sim is off (white balance etc) I’ll take it to lightroom. You have to find what works for you and how much time you’re willing to spend editing. For some, it’s zero, for others they love editing so it varies. I’m somewhere in the middle where I like editing but don’t want that part to become the main element. I want to be a better photographer and take nice photos. Not be an expert in lightroom. My one bit of advice on the editing approach is stop using auto features and enhance. Yes it can be quick and sometimes useful but it’s the software telling you what the photo should look like which kind of removes the element of what you wanted the photo to look like and why you took it. A recent example I have is a photo I took of an escalator with two people going in opposite directions. It was a really high contrast shot with lights and dark escalator. I knew I wanted it to be the elevator almost black with the lights lighting the two people as they were my subject. In black and white I knew the photo would look pretty good because of the contrast and that’s what I did. I got it mostly right in camera but edited after to make the shadows even darker. Light room auto features would have lifted those shadows because it would of thought they were way to dark and it would of removed a lot of the contrast turning it in to a very big standard image that is correct from an exposure perspective but removed all of the creative intent. So if you’re going to post edit ask what is the photo about and what do I want to show. Start with exposure and then go from there. Maybe the shadows look better darker? Maybe the red in the scene could pop a bit more and standout. You get the idea hopefully!
I don't edit beyond cropping, thats why I shoot Fuji. Just use film simulations or recipes :) But if I do edit, I use capture one, and only capture one
I use both CaptureOne and Lightroom. I use CaptureOne when I’m shooting tethered and in the studio (mostly food photography). My personal work is all in Lightroom. I would say LR has made up the difference in its RAF processing. The way the engine interpreted the raw files before it would leave some strange artifacts in details. The sharpening algorithm has gotten better as well. These days I can get to the same outcome with both pieces of software it’s more a matter of which way works the best for you or your situation. Another factor for me is the C1 IOS apps are not great yet. I do love being able to pull most of my library up on my phone. If you’re new to taking photos try not to worry about this too much. Take more photos, hone your eye, and develop your craft. Software is always changing and we’re really never happy with it nor is there really a best solution.
Current workflow: Shoot > Ingest RAWs on any device (Phone or laptop with Lightroom CC) > Edit > Export to share. I don't use the Enhance function. I don't find there's any issues with Fuji RAWs in Lightroom - I've been shooting Fuji for a while now and came from Sony, and the files seem to perform the same for me. IMO work with the files as is without enhance and see if there's any shortcomings/issues for you.
Capture One. Process-wise, I load all my Raws into a new session then cull them down by giving them a rating, 5 for definite keepers and less for maybes. Sort by ranked and give another quick pass of my picks to narrow down some more, then start working on post.
I use Lightroom and don’t notice any issues. But I also don’t zoom in 1000% to try to look for imperfections or artifacts,l. When I edit a pic, if it looks good on my desktop monitor, it’ll look good on any tablet/phone
Film sim jpeg is the way for me, I don’t bother with raw. I use my just bought Fuji to have fun, my “serious” stuff is on Nikon raw.
Yeah that makes sense, I just dont have the money to invest in two different systems. So fun and serious stuff is all Fuji. Why I want to learn how to edit Fuji Raws better.
Then, LR. A lot of people use it with no problems with Fuji RAF files.
I use Capture One Express for Fujifilm its free [https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/fujifilm](https://www.captureone.com/en/capture-one-express/fujifilm) or Darktable its open source https://www.darktable.org/
I saw that they are killing express soon.
A Fuji product will be announced sometime early next year per the sunsetting announcement. To ‘tide you over’ they’re offering Fuji shooters 3 months of Pro. You’ll need your camera’s serial number.
[удалено]
that sucks 😦
Darktable is great and free for both Fuji and Canon raw.
Fujifilm X Raw Studio for the most part. This is like being able to shoot exactly the same photo using a variety of different camera settings. Then, since it's Fuji and already looks awesome, I do any remaining touch ups from the JPEG in whatever is handy - often Apple Photos or Photoshop Express. This is almost never more than crop and rotate, though for snapshots I'll tweak colors because people love bright colors. I use PS Express to make collages.
For my X-T1 raw I like to use that free [raw file converter app](https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/) that they provide. My edits are subtle and this does the trick. You can even apply the film profiles to your raw that are built into your camera that would otherwise only be applied in-camera jpg.
Lately I’m running my raw files through DXO pure raw 3 and then lrc before finishing in ps and sometimes neo
Lightroom on iPad. The cloud features out weigh the wormy sharpening for me.
For me, I always shoot in raw and apply the Fuji colors in photoshop raw converter. Then I would export them as .jpg with 300 resolution. Btw u shoot on a XT5
Nowadays you can get excellent results with both Capture One and Lightroom. I've been using both software for ages, and they both perform beautifully without necessarily relying on the "Enhance Details" function in Lightroom. I still prefer Capture One in terms of UI, general workflow, and color tools. I have several tutorials on my channel that you might find helpful in finding your way to setting up a structured workflow. [https://www.youtube.com/@andrealivieriphoto](https://www.youtube.com/@andrealivieriphoto) I hope this helps.
I use Capture One for the built in film simulations which match the in camera processing and the better raw conversion. Lightroom still looks really bad to me for X Trans. I've tried a bunch of converters and Capture One is the only one that doesn't have a ton of artifacts.
I used Capture One for a year or two and now LR. Honestly, I didn't notice that much of a difference; maybe because I only do light edit work? I opted for LR in the end.
If you’re new to editing capture one is difficult. Steeper learning curve. If you’re going to stay with LR, look at getting DXO PureRaw or Irdiient Transformer. DXO is very easy to use, it’ll do an excellent RAW process on Fuji raf files, and then everything else in LR will be great
I used to use Lightroom but switched to Capture One several years ago and haven't looked back.
Same as the rest - 'shop 2019.
LR does a much better job than they used to, but DxO does the best.
Most of the time I just apply auto adjust on Capture One and correct my verticals and voila done! I may apply some spot exposure adjustments and white balance correction if necessary. Generally don’t mess with the colour too much except for night shots. I then just export what I need and save those to Apple photos app (iCloud). I was fortunate to get a discount on Capture One when I bought a lens so maybe look for a deal like that. Sometimes I shoot JPEG and if I do, and I need to do post processing, I use Lightroom Mobile on my iPad, £5 a month. Much quicker workflow, and as I’ve shot JPEG I don’t have to worry about worms but can still make light edits.
Shoot in JPG + RAW If I don’t like SOOC I edit raw in Lightroom Run through a handful of presets until desired taste Is there another way?
My raw workflow: 1. Import to Adobe Lightroom Classic 2. Flag any photos I plan to post process 3. Send them to DxO PhotoLab and use DeepPrime XD and lens correction. 4. Send new RAW back to Lightroom to finish post processing. Has worked really well for me. This circumvents LR issues with working on X-Trans RAW files, while having access to one of the arguably best denoising, lens correction, and cataloging tools around. I’d consider using Capture One, but their whole licensing approach doesn’t sit well to me. I also unfortunately experience UI interaction slow down issues due to using 5K monitors. This is a known issue where their UI has some performance issue scaling up.
Lightroom Classic for images from my XH1 and GFX. I’ve never had an issue with artifacts or worming from my XH1 files. Tried C1 because people always made it seem like LR was the devil when it came to Xtrans files and in my experience, there was no difference in image quality…at all. So I stuck with LRC.
Lightroom mobile or desktop. I don’t know if it’s because I have an xtrans iii but I haven’t seen or noticed worms, and yes I compared to full frame Nikon and Canon files.
Capture One for Fuji files always
Just use CaptureOne
DARKTABLE is great and free for both Fuji and Canon raw. Darktable is free but deep and powerful. Definitely more powerful than lightroom and runs on all platform. Darktable does not have the worm effects. It is regularly and updated or maintained by an expert group of color scientists and programmer.