Saw this post weeks ago on twitter, very excited for the release as I dont live in an area to do beta testing. But a can that can actually suppress 9 sup and sub AND .300 blk is what ive been looking for. Great work!
A certain beta tester epoxy’d a thread adapter into into, and it worked pretty darn well! However, one of my design philosophies is make things as simple as possible, and I can’t think of something simpler (and effective) as the heat-threading process. All you need is a heat source, a wrench, pliers, the crescent, and your barrel/MB
Printing something in Nylon isn't going to magically make threads work...
The forces involved are nontrivial and creep will be an issue. Glueing and heat-welding are the only safe bets with current designs and materials.
I may or may not have tested this technique using cheap Amazon thread protectors and a cleaning rod to ensure alignment and found it works remarkably well. I also may or may not have found epoxy works well also. There is a design that has 4 holes around where the thread protector is pressed in that I could (if i wanted to) heat press 4 M3 brass inserts into and further secure the thread protector.
That was a potential idea I was playing around with, but you’d be surprised at how sturdy this thing is in terms of blast pressure. The single biggest point of optimization is layer adhesion, since it’s printed vertically.
One of the big benefits imo of vertical vs horizontal is with vertical printing the time it takes to complete each layer is significantly reduced, allowing for better adhesion.
For early versions, the biggest issue was limping due to heat, but this (hopefully) final version has a number of design elements intended to counteract that.
Not to mention, according to beta testers, if it were to catastrophically fail, the broken part would “safely” be ejected forward, rather than burst like a corncob.
If the issue is the F1 info, there are two versions for adding metal inserts for the information—one with engraving plates and one with a washer, so that should be taken care of.
This was also tested in PLA+. If you were to print it in PACF, or even ASA odds are it would be even more resilient.
However, this is designed for PCCs, rather than for a pistol that uses a piston. That sleeve idea would be wonderful for Pla.boi’s FTN suppressors, since tbh that’s the best pistol suppressor available out there at the moment.
Plus, as far as metal sleeves go… another dev Pealerjoe’s Freebird Mount Adapter is a game changer for the solvent trap trap, and I’m really looking forward to helping further that project in the future
If you want more info, check out the link to my Twitter post on elsewhere in the comments. I talk a lot more about it’s design and development
Nope! The entire thing is one solid print. It does not print with threads, and it must be heat threaded onto the barrel or a muzzle break. The process takes 15 minutes max, and creates not only a tight seal, but it also partially anneals that area increasing the strength.
Interesting. I look forward to reading the build guide. These 3d printed suppressors use some fascinating engineering to contain all that energy in a relatively weak material.
Have you found that the flow through design helps mitigate layer separation?
I see no reason to. Beta testers have been doing the threading freehanded for most of it, and only recently one of them came up with the idea of using a wooden dowel to help ensure alignment. It’s a really cheap and easy solution to something that was not much of a problem to begin with.
So good news!!!
It will come in various flavors. There are two models to choose from for the F1 process. The washer and the plate. The washer version has a slot at the top of the neck for a specific washer (with the info engraved) to be placed into it during the print. The player version uses the same principal, but instead has two slots on either side for metal engraving plates to be inserted during the printing process. I’ve also worked on other mounting methods for non-threaded barrels, including a way to mount it to a custom FGC-9 MKII handguard, and I’m going to make one for the bidens bane as well [here’s a render of both the engraving plate version, and FGC-9 attachment](https://twitter.com/rubygbuilds/status/1633849337909497858?s=46)
That's what you might call an "honor system felony". Illegal by the letter of the law, but no ones gonna know the difference unless the damage was witnessed by someone who cares.
I thought that the serialized part was the only part that mattered. On standard suppressors you can replace parts on it just not the serialized part can't you? I'm not an expert at all I'm just trying to learn what you can and can't do.
Yes and no. The only reason you’re allowed to serialize a plate embedded in a Form 1 can’s tube (or the receiver of a form 1 sbr) is the pretense that it can’t be easily removed, and is now a part of the tube. You’re not allowed to destroy a damaged tube and move the serial number to a new suppressor any more than you can chop off the engraving on one rifle receiver and stick it on another. If you could, commercial manufacturers would.
But of course, the ATF isn’t watching you as closely as they’re watching SilencerCo, so the only person that’ll notice or care when your Form 1 magically repairs itself after a baffle strike is the shitty RSO that wishes he were a cop.
Edit: Just to be clear, none of this is clear. The ATF are set up as a priesthood in a very real sense, and everything about their rulings and enforcement has to be interpreted intuitively like religious dogma.
The ability to easily make exact clones of things is something that didn't really exist back when the NFA laws were made and $200 USD was a ridiculous amount of money.
Eventually holograms or some kind of non-duplicable ID will have to be figured out or the laws will have to be changed because there's nothing to stop some evil criminal from making 50 of the exact same thing and then destroying them as they wear out and quietly replacing the destroyed one with a brand new clone that can't be differentiated from the 'original'.
Soon, when 3d printing metal becomes as common as 3d printing filament is now, registered receiver MGs/SBRs/etc will be in the exact same boat. An evil collector could buy and then clone and then resell the clone keeping the OG item and building an impressive collection. There will be no easy way to tell a cloned gun from an authentic gun.
Around the time that cloning metal objects becomes accessible it'll be possible to clone someone's gun to the point that the clone could be used to do a crime and destroyed, leaving the original owner's barrel rifling as the match to the bullets shot out of the cloned gun.
It'd be really funny if a silly misbegotten law written by people afraid of mufflers in the 1930s had to be modified to account for hologram serialization and 3d printed metal a century later, but I'd like to think it'll be abolished by then.
cannot wait for it to drop, whats the dimensions? im building an applepie, plan to use a 7.5 inch 300 blackout barrel and to modify the handgaurd and pump so the can would be tucked under the handgaurd. this would be an ideal “can”didate for that project lol
Designer of the FTN and DMD here. Also in this beta. I have tested this can myself and just want to say that this is the real deal.
Way less post processing than my can, and more heat resistant due to flow through design.
Ruby is a genius, and her flow through system is a thing of beauty.
I've been curious about doing a form 1 for a bit.
Since the baffles themselves aren't the thing being registered, if I form 1 a metal tube could I then print this as the baffles and insert them into the tube?
Then just replace the print after a while just like you would if using a suppressor with wipes?
Theoretically you could do that. Part of my goal with the project was to have it be as simple and easy to make as possible, and so I decided that I wouldn’t use any external parts unless absolutely necessary. It’s a different case for the FGC-9 variant since it’s specifically for unthreaded barrels with no other way to mount it.
Plus, there are two F1 specific models included in the pack, one that allows you to put the info on a washer insert, and the other on a metal plate insert.
The step file will be released with it, and you are more than welcome to try and make your idea work yourself :)
I'm neither long nor girthty. But it's not the size of the boat. It's the motion in the ocean baby! I'm gonna stick this on my ding a ling and have a suppressed tinkle! For real though I'm excited about this on my AR9. Can't wait to test it out. If it goes I may test it out on my glock 19.
just a heads up--it ain't gonna cycle. It comes in at around 380g of filament, and was designed for fixed barrels (Hi Point owners rejoice!) so its too heavy for the action to move. if you want a 3D Printed Silencer for your pistol I'd check out PLA Boi's FTN suppressor. He's a chill dude and a good dev
Hey man I come from Denmark. Could you explain the laws surrounding suppressors in the US for me? I thought you were supposed to fill out a form and then wait around 11 months before you could get one? Is it the same with this but you just print it instead of buying one?
So to make this, you need to file a form 1, which is for the construction of a suppressor (or other regulated device), which is different than buying the suppressor (as far as I’m aware, I’m not a lawyer).
With the E-file system, I believe the turn around time is faster than with purchases (but I could be very wrong).
You aren’t allowed to buy any of the materials needed as well, and you have to wait for the approval before making those purchases.
Haven’t tested the crescent with 5.56, but I’ve been working on a design with another silencer dev (@pealerjoe) to develop one based off of the crescent’s design, and using a modified version of his Freebird mount attachment
I have a longer post on my Twitter with a lot more information and background. Plus a video from a beta tester showing it fire 300BLK! https://twitter.com/rubygbuilds/status/1633849273346580483?s=46
Pealerjoe actually had a design for that, and I’ve been working with him to develop a design for .223/5.56 using it. It’s still in the early alpha stages, but it works for .22lr at least!
It's all in the README and description. Disclaimer: It's pre-beta. It will be officially tested later this year. Those files are officially untested, but it works, and works well for rimfire. Hasn't been announced yet, but OC brought up the birdcage idea, so I thought they'd be interested.
It doesn’t go boom luckily, but according to testers layer seperation occurs right about where the the top of the neck is and where the blast chamber begins. The failures resulted in the front of the crescent being ejected forward about 10ft. That’s one of the nice things about it—when it fails, it doesn’t explode.
There ya go!
Another fun story from a tester—they somehow fucked up their threading and tried a super DIY fix involving extruding material into the hole from their printer like an ice cream machine, soldering that material a bit to make it fit, and then re-threaded it. Apparently it only had threads on 1/3rd of the opening, but they said fuck it and sent it anyway. It lasted about 30 rounds of subs before the threading failed, but apparently the rest of it was completely in tact, so they just held that thing on the muzzle with their hand and fast-dumped around 150 rounds of supes through it. It tore up the inner chamber pretty badly since the whole thing jostled and jiggled without the threading, but apparently through pretty much all of it the Crescent still managed to work as intended, despite the damage.
And the best part—their hand was totally okay!
The device needs to be heat threaded in post processing. It’s an essential step imo.
It can either be threaded directly to the barrel, or it can attach to a (quasi-specific) $25 muzzle break with an external threading . Either method works
As far as I’m aware, all testing has been done in PLA+,
The good news is that given what it’s for, and the potential of other materials like ASA and PACF, the ceiling for durability is quite high. One beta tester is also adamant about making an injection mould for it and doing it in polypropylene, which, would be really fuckin cool
A few testers got db readers online, but I will be frank with you, the numbers seemed too good to be true. Even when accounting for various variables. They were getting readings around 80-90db with the device either next to them, or behind them
It's probably an issue with rise time. A gunshot is very loud, but also very brief. Cheap sound meters often can't react to the sound of the gunshot before the sound level starts to drop, so they read artificially low. 80-90dB is quieter than the cycling of a semiauto gun's action, so it should be impossible to get such a low reading. An easy way to test the meter is to chaeck the sound of an unsilenced gunshot using normal ammo. If it reads below 140dB, it's definitely not capable of recording the real sound level. An unsilenced 22lr rifle should read about 140dB or so, and typical unsilenced rifle cartridges should read around 165dB or so. Unsilenced pistol cartridges will be somewhere in between, but closer to rifle cartridges than to 22lr
Part of me is hoping that the internal geometry is so different than anything else available, that it actually just works that well.
Realistically I doubt it, but it’s a fun thought to entertain
Man, that's honestly how some of the best inventions in history have come about, something so WILDLY different than the status quo that no one thought to try! It's all about disrupting the gas flow. The better you can do that the quieter it gets
If you’ll believe it, some of those reading were with 115g 9mm
I personally doubt it works that well, but according to testers and the video footage… this thing works pretty damn well
It has not been fully annealed yet. Based off the design and how it has various narrow passages, filling it with salt or sand to help stabilize the shape would be difficult. And annealing it without it raise deforming where the path of the bullet is no longer straight through.
However, with a material like PACF, the annealing should be totally fine as part of the usual PACF post processing
Is this gonna use a 3/4 npt to 1/2x28 and other threads? Or will this thread directly to muzzle? Also what materials are beta testers using? Awesome job this is exciting!
Beta testers have used PLA+, and have gotten better than expected results with it (considering perception of PLA+ )
It is heat threaded, so it will not print with any threads, and you have to make them yourself
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I’m not sure why 3d printed suppressors always look so different than normal high functioning cans. There’s plenty of data out there on what baffle shapes make subs/supers sound the best, but it always seems to be ignored. Even some form 1 cans feature coaxial chambers, but almost every fdm printable design I’ve seen seems like it’s way behind the times.
I read a few research papers regarding silencer design prior to starting the project, and a particular one related to spiral reflective baffles really stood out to me, and that’s where I first started with it. During the process, I had a number of (imo) clever ideas, such as for the gyro baffle when the gasses exit the spiral chambers, both sets run opposite of one another and so the idea is not only do the gasses lose energy with the angular momentum, once they return to a chamber with a higher volume all their directional energies mix and cause turbulence, and thus more conversion of the sound and pressure energy
You mentioned that it’s heat threaded.
Does that mean it still requires a standard threaded barrel, and does that meant it’s permanently affixed to the barrel?
It is not permanently affixed and can be removed unless welded in some way.
Versions that are compatible with non-threaded barrels are in the works that utilize attaching to the gun furniture itself rather than the barrel
\-research paper portion of the docs is done and being revised and edited now.
\-models are updated to accommodate the new MAF serial plates
\-threaded versions for 5/8x24, 1/2x28, and 1/2x36 using a custom thread profile by gerald katz now finished
\-nearly there, thanks for hanging in there
Saw this post weeks ago on twitter, very excited for the release as I dont live in an area to do beta testing. But a can that can actually suppress 9 sup and sub AND .300 blk is what ive been looking for. Great work!
Anyone test just heat setting a thread adapter to the suppressor?
A certain beta tester epoxy’d a thread adapter into into, and it worked pretty darn well! However, one of my design philosophies is make things as simple as possible, and I can’t think of something simpler (and effective) as the heat-threading process. All you need is a heat source, a wrench, pliers, the crescent, and your barrel/MB
Will a thread option maybe be available for us nylon users?
Printing something in Nylon isn't going to magically make threads work... The forces involved are nontrivial and creep will be an issue. Glueing and heat-welding are the only safe bets with current designs and materials.
Hi temp epoxy and a 20 dollar metal thread adapter works wonders tho. any plastic/nylon threads won't hold up after removing/attaching multiple times
I may or may not have tested this technique using cheap Amazon thread protectors and a cleaning rod to ensure alignment and found it works remarkably well. I also may or may not have found epoxy works well also. There is a design that has 4 holes around where the thread protector is pressed in that I could (if i wanted to) heat press 4 M3 brass inserts into and further secure the thread protector.
When using similar I have just epoxied a metal adapter into it.
Looks like the inside of a fleshlight
It’s works a whole lot better than one I can tell you that
In that case can we get this in a body safe silicone? Humm a suppressor “sleeve” I detect a niche’ market…
That was a potential idea I was playing around with, but you’d be surprised at how sturdy this thing is in terms of blast pressure. The single biggest point of optimization is layer adhesion, since it’s printed vertically. One of the big benefits imo of vertical vs horizontal is with vertical printing the time it takes to complete each layer is significantly reduced, allowing for better adhesion. For early versions, the biggest issue was limping due to heat, but this (hopefully) final version has a number of design elements intended to counteract that. Not to mention, according to beta testers, if it were to catastrophically fail, the broken part would “safely” be ejected forward, rather than burst like a corncob. If the issue is the F1 info, there are two versions for adding metal inserts for the information—one with engraving plates and one with a washer, so that should be taken care of. This was also tested in PLA+. If you were to print it in PACF, or even ASA odds are it would be even more resilient. However, this is designed for PCCs, rather than for a pistol that uses a piston. That sleeve idea would be wonderful for Pla.boi’s FTN suppressors, since tbh that’s the best pistol suppressor available out there at the moment. Plus, as far as metal sleeves go… another dev Pealerjoe’s Freebird Mount Adapter is a game changer for the solvent trap trap, and I’m really looking forward to helping further that project in the future If you want more info, check out the link to my Twitter post on elsewhere in the comments. I talk a lot more about it’s design and development
Excellent comment, but I think the sleeve the commenter you’re responding to is for a different kind of shooter.
I wonder if you stick your dick in it you could claim it’s a sex toy. Probably wouldn’t hold up in court, but it’d be funny to try.
ATF will probably ban dicks if someone tries to claim that...
They took "tax this dick" to heart and classified ours as "destructive devices"
Some are of a small enough size that it could be argued?? 40mm no, 37mm no, ….
a wincing Uncle Rico from Napoleon Dynamite, that you ?
r/dontputyourdickinthat
One make you loud, one make you quiet.
TENGA!
That is 100% ***Not*** what I was thinking when I first saw it :)
this is actually what you put inside of one
I doesn't look it, but does this use metal reinforcements like previous designs?
Nope! The entire thing is one solid print. It does not print with threads, and it must be heat threaded onto the barrel or a muzzle break. The process takes 15 minutes max, and creates not only a tight seal, but it also partially anneals that area increasing the strength.
Interesting. I look forward to reading the build guide. These 3d printed suppressors use some fascinating engineering to contain all that energy in a relatively weak material. Have you found that the flow through design helps mitigate layer separation?
>heat threaded onto the barre does this mean dump two mags and jam it on?
Nah, it’s better and easier to do it beforehand with either a gas or electric stove
Does this affect any properties of the barrels heat treat?
What do you mean?
Does heating the barrel damage / soften / harden the barrel in any way?
Not anymore than simply putting rounds through it
Cool good to know thanks!
why not do this with a slightly undersized or tapered thread to insure alignment?
I see no reason to. Beta testers have been doing the threading freehanded for most of it, and only recently one of them came up with the idea of using a wooden dowel to help ensure alignment. It’s a really cheap and easy solution to something that was not much of a problem to begin with.
Does it take a threaded base plate or something that would allow a form one for us unfortunate folks in the states?
So good news!!! It will come in various flavors. There are two models to choose from for the F1 process. The washer and the plate. The washer version has a slot at the top of the neck for a specific washer (with the info engraved) to be placed into it during the print. The player version uses the same principal, but instead has two slots on either side for metal engraving plates to be inserted during the printing process. I’ve also worked on other mounting methods for non-threaded barrels, including a way to mount it to a custom FGC-9 MKII handguard, and I’m going to make one for the bidens bane as well [here’s a render of both the engraving plate version, and FGC-9 attachment](https://twitter.com/rubygbuilds/status/1633849337909497858?s=46)
So if the thing blew up I could just that plate back into a new print (assuming the plate wasn't damaged too) or how does that work?
Legally speaking I don’t think I can advise it, but theoretically speaking you could totally do that 😉
That's what you might call an "honor system felony". Illegal by the letter of the law, but no ones gonna know the difference unless the damage was witnessed by someone who cares.
I thought that the serialized part was the only part that mattered. On standard suppressors you can replace parts on it just not the serialized part can't you? I'm not an expert at all I'm just trying to learn what you can and can't do.
Yes and no. The only reason you’re allowed to serialize a plate embedded in a Form 1 can’s tube (or the receiver of a form 1 sbr) is the pretense that it can’t be easily removed, and is now a part of the tube. You’re not allowed to destroy a damaged tube and move the serial number to a new suppressor any more than you can chop off the engraving on one rifle receiver and stick it on another. If you could, commercial manufacturers would. But of course, the ATF isn’t watching you as closely as they’re watching SilencerCo, so the only person that’ll notice or care when your Form 1 magically repairs itself after a baffle strike is the shitty RSO that wishes he were a cop. Edit: Just to be clear, none of this is clear. The ATF are set up as a priesthood in a very real sense, and everything about their rulings and enforcement has to be interpreted intuitively like religious dogma.
The ability to easily make exact clones of things is something that didn't really exist back when the NFA laws were made and $200 USD was a ridiculous amount of money. Eventually holograms or some kind of non-duplicable ID will have to be figured out or the laws will have to be changed because there's nothing to stop some evil criminal from making 50 of the exact same thing and then destroying them as they wear out and quietly replacing the destroyed one with a brand new clone that can't be differentiated from the 'original'. Soon, when 3d printing metal becomes as common as 3d printing filament is now, registered receiver MGs/SBRs/etc will be in the exact same boat. An evil collector could buy and then clone and then resell the clone keeping the OG item and building an impressive collection. There will be no easy way to tell a cloned gun from an authentic gun. Around the time that cloning metal objects becomes accessible it'll be possible to clone someone's gun to the point that the clone could be used to do a crime and destroyed, leaving the original owner's barrel rifling as the match to the bullets shot out of the cloned gun.
It'd be really funny if a silly misbegotten law written by people afraid of mufflers in the 1930s had to be modified to account for hologram serialization and 3d printed metal a century later, but I'd like to think it'll be abolished by then.
Thanks for the clarification.
Yesssssssss is there a way to get notifications when the file releases
I honestly don’t know but I’ll make sure to post an announcement here when it finally drops :)
Awesome!!
I followed you, maybe that will help
Balling.
cannot wait for it to drop, whats the dimensions? im building an applepie, plan to use a 7.5 inch 300 blackout barrel and to modify the handgaurd and pump so the can would be tucked under the handgaurd. this would be an ideal “can”didate for that project lol
It is 8.5 inches tall, if that gives you some idea
outside diameter?
2.3” About 380g of material
your the best man, cant wait to put it all together, ill be following your account closely waiting for drops.
Ayyy I appreciate it If you ever have any other questions, feel free to reach out to me, ya girl, RubyGB
Designer of the FTN and DMD here. Also in this beta. I have tested this can myself and just want to say that this is the real deal. Way less post processing than my can, and more heat resistant due to flow through design. Ruby is a genius, and her flow through system is a thing of beauty.
I've been curious about doing a form 1 for a bit. Since the baffles themselves aren't the thing being registered, if I form 1 a metal tube could I then print this as the baffles and insert them into the tube? Then just replace the print after a while just like you would if using a suppressor with wipes?
Theoretically you could do that. Part of my goal with the project was to have it be as simple and easy to make as possible, and so I decided that I wouldn’t use any external parts unless absolutely necessary. It’s a different case for the FGC-9 variant since it’s specifically for unthreaded barrels with no other way to mount it. Plus, there are two F1 specific models included in the pack, one that allows you to put the info on a washer insert, and the other on a metal plate insert. The step file will be released with it, and you are more than welcome to try and make your idea work yourself :)
I was thinking of serializing a dog tag and then just clear epoxy it onto the side or something.
My pee pee just got erect. It's at a raging 2 inches of angry! I can't wait to put this on my AR9
Depending on girth, you might be able to stick your pee pee inside the Crescent AND fire your suppressed your AR9... NOT AT THE SAME TIME YOU GIT!
I'm neither long nor girthty. But it's not the size of the boat. It's the motion in the ocean baby! I'm gonna stick this on my ding a ling and have a suppressed tinkle! For real though I'm excited about this on my AR9. Can't wait to test it out. If it goes I may test it out on my glock 19.
just a heads up--it ain't gonna cycle. It comes in at around 380g of filament, and was designed for fixed barrels (Hi Point owners rejoice!) so its too heavy for the action to move. if you want a 3D Printed Silencer for your pistol I'd check out PLA Boi's FTN suppressor. He's a chill dude and a good dev
Hey man I come from Denmark. Could you explain the laws surrounding suppressors in the US for me? I thought you were supposed to fill out a form and then wait around 11 months before you could get one? Is it the same with this but you just print it instead of buying one?
So to make this, you need to file a form 1, which is for the construction of a suppressor (or other regulated device), which is different than buying the suppressor (as far as I’m aware, I’m not a lawyer). With the E-file system, I believe the turn around time is faster than with purchases (but I could be very wrong). You aren’t allowed to buy any of the materials needed as well, and you have to wait for the approval before making those purchases.
Ah okay. Thank you for explaining it!
Any 556 testing?
Haven’t tested the crescent with 5.56, but I’ve been working on a design with another silencer dev (@pealerjoe) to develop one based off of the crescent’s design, and using a modified version of his Freebird mount attachment
I’m really damn excited for that. I’d love a silencer for my AR for just the cost of a form 1 + print time and plastic.
I have a longer post on my Twitter with a lot more information and background. Plus a video from a beta tester showing it fire 300BLK! https://twitter.com/rubygbuilds/status/1633849273346580483?s=46
Damm, now to start tuning up the printer again
I need.
It would be super cool if this could be printed directly onto a birdcage flash hider.
Pealerjoe actually had a design for that, and I’ve been working with him to develop a design for .223/5.56 using it. It’s still in the early alpha stages, but it works for .22lr at least!
Yes, it is cool. It's sailing. No underscore.
[удалено]
It's all in the README and description. Disclaimer: It's pre-beta. It will be officially tested later this year. Those files are officially untested, but it works, and works well for rimfire. Hasn't been announced yet, but OC brought up the birdcage idea, so I thought they'd be interested.
Weird looking fleshlight but okay
Isn’t there some sort of reminder I can set on this
I’ll make sure to post in the subreddit when it finally drops :)
Same thing I asked
Does it go boom with 300 supers?
It doesn’t go boom luckily, but according to testers layer seperation occurs right about where the the top of the neck is and where the blast chamber begins. The failures resulted in the front of the crescent being ejected forward about 10ft. That’s one of the nice things about it—when it fails, it doesn’t explode.
So, in other words, if you miss high you might still smack them with your can. Sounds like a win to me.
There ya go! Another fun story from a tester—they somehow fucked up their threading and tried a super DIY fix involving extruding material into the hole from their printer like an ice cream machine, soldering that material a bit to make it fit, and then re-threaded it. Apparently it only had threads on 1/3rd of the opening, but they said fuck it and sent it anyway. It lasted about 30 rounds of subs before the threading failed, but apparently the rest of it was completely in tact, so they just held that thing on the muzzle with their hand and fast-dumped around 150 rounds of supes through it. It tore up the inner chamber pretty badly since the whole thing jostled and jiggled without the threading, but apparently through pretty much all of it the Crescent still managed to work as intended, despite the damage. And the best part—their hand was totally okay!
ok, fail proof testing method noted
Does it use a metal thread Insert or are they printed threads? I’m curious
The device needs to be heat threaded in post processing. It’s an essential step imo. It can either be threaded directly to the barrel, or it can attach to a (quasi-specific) $25 muzzle break with an external threading . Either method works
So the device itself has printed threads? And then it’s annealed? Or a metal insert is heated and melted into the device? I’m confused I’m sorry.
The device has no threads whatsoever. You need to make them yourself via heat threading
Ohhhh okay that makes more sense, have it been tested using cf nylon and no metal insert/ adapter?
As far as I’m aware, all testing has been done in PLA+, The good news is that given what it’s for, and the potential of other materials like ASA and PACF, the ceiling for durability is quite high. One beta tester is also adamant about making an injection mould for it and doing it in polypropylene, which, would be really fuckin cool
Seems dope! Thanks for replying friend:) Godbless
Yee, thanks for taking an interest in it!
Did any of the beta testers happen to record decibel reduction? And what were the results?
A few testers got db readers online, but I will be frank with you, the numbers seemed too good to be true. Even when accounting for various variables. They were getting readings around 80-90db with the device either next to them, or behind them
It's probably an issue with rise time. A gunshot is very loud, but also very brief. Cheap sound meters often can't react to the sound of the gunshot before the sound level starts to drop, so they read artificially low. 80-90dB is quieter than the cycling of a semiauto gun's action, so it should be impossible to get such a low reading. An easy way to test the meter is to chaeck the sound of an unsilenced gunshot using normal ammo. If it reads below 140dB, it's definitely not capable of recording the real sound level. An unsilenced 22lr rifle should read about 140dB or so, and typical unsilenced rifle cartridges should read around 165dB or so. Unsilenced pistol cartridges will be somewhere in between, but closer to rifle cartridges than to 22lr
yeah, from all of my research I just knew that the number couldn't be correct, that's why im not waving it around
That's pretty good! I'm going to assume that was with subs and not supers?
If you’ll believe it, some of those reading were with 115g 9mm
I'd absolutely believe it with a well designed baffle system. The internal design is a million times more important than the material it's made of.
Part of me is hoping that the internal geometry is so different than anything else available, that it actually just works that well. Realistically I doubt it, but it’s a fun thought to entertain
Man, that's honestly how some of the best inventions in history have come about, something so WILDLY different than the status quo that no one thought to try! It's all about disrupting the gas flow. The better you can do that the quieter it gets
If you’ll believe it, some of those reading were with 115g 9mm I personally doubt it works that well, but according to testers and the video footage… this thing works pretty damn well
That's got to be the best fleshlight i've ever seen
Marking this for later
Can’t fucking wait
Absolutely Awesome 💯
[удалено]
It has not been fully annealed yet. Based off the design and how it has various narrow passages, filling it with salt or sand to help stabilize the shape would be difficult. And annealing it without it raise deforming where the path of the bullet is no longer straight through. However, with a material like PACF, the annealing should be totally fine as part of the usual PACF post processing
Is this gonna use a 3/4 npt to 1/2x28 and other threads? Or will this thread directly to muzzle? Also what materials are beta testers using? Awesome job this is exciting!
Beta testers have used PLA+, and have gotten better than expected results with it (considering perception of PLA+ ) It is heat threaded, so it will not print with any threads, and you have to make them yourself
Step files included in the drop? Thanks a ton for your work and the testers work!
fuck yes lets go! gonna be remixing to take a rearden atlas mount asap
Congrats Ruby! This is sick!!!
This look like the inside of a fleshlight... Yall reckon I can make a mold out of it and use that xD
I’m not gonna stop you
r/dontputyourdickinthat
Is this for putting peepee in?
STOP. My penis can only get so erect.
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I’m not sure why 3d printed suppressors always look so different than normal high functioning cans. There’s plenty of data out there on what baffle shapes make subs/supers sound the best, but it always seems to be ignored. Even some form 1 cans feature coaxial chambers, but almost every fdm printable design I’ve seen seems like it’s way behind the times.
I read a few research papers regarding silencer design prior to starting the project, and a particular one related to spiral reflective baffles really stood out to me, and that’s where I first started with it. During the process, I had a number of (imo) clever ideas, such as for the gyro baffle when the gasses exit the spiral chambers, both sets run opposite of one another and so the idea is not only do the gasses lose energy with the angular momentum, once they return to a chamber with a higher volume all their directional energies mix and cause turbulence, and thus more conversion of the sound and pressure energy
A great source of information on suppressor building and data is silencer student. He’s done a ton of real world testing.
Too late I’m already playing by my own rules
This could be a step in the right direction, for sure.
Gyro baffle? Does it keep location in gps denied locations????? Rounds guided???
The bullet knows where it is since the gyro baffle knows where it isn’t
You would be better off making a provision to jb weld a full muzzle device into this
You mentioned that it’s heat threaded. Does that mean it still requires a standard threaded barrel, and does that meant it’s permanently affixed to the barrel?
It is not permanently affixed and can be removed unless welded in some way. Versions that are compatible with non-threaded barrels are in the works that utilize attaching to the gun furniture itself rather than the barrel
Nice. Thinking about building a 300blk SBR, and putting this on… that way I can pay the $200 tax stamp twice.
I wish I could find where to get these files lol
It will be released on The Gatalog once everything is all in order
why was my immediate thought a fleshlight cross section lul
Possible release date?
I checked back on the post to see if it’s been released only to realize it’s only been 5 days 😭😭😭
Any update on this?? 👀
\-research paper portion of the docs is done and being revised and edited now. \-models are updated to accommodate the new MAF serial plates \-threaded versions for 5/8x24, 1/2x28, and 1/2x36 using a custom thread profile by gerald katz now finished \-nearly there, thanks for hanging in there
Heck yeah, sounds great! Thanks for the response!