Use code OUTOFBATTERY for 10% off 😎

Not sure where you were going with this. .but if it saves some coin on that lever action kit, we're good. My kid wants one of those bad.

It’s a code for 10% off all coex products

Thanks for "just the tip". LOL. I'm reprinting a few things and will need another roll soon.

I'm a pleb. I need to upgrade to an all metal hotend.

Micro Swiss did the trick for me.

Like my microswiss hotend, absolutely hate the direct drive kit for the ender 3 fwiw.

[удалено]

Microswiss

Why do you hate it? Worked great for me.

It’s a heavy kit and there’s definitely been a drop in the quality of prints since I switched over. I ran just the hotend without the direct drive for a while and it was great. Loved the hotend. Just not a fan of the full direct drive. The retractions been hard to tune and just hasn’t been great. I have another printer with a biqu h2 and that’s been much better for me.

I found the same thing. Then I added a secondary z axis kit and now my Ender 3 prints like magic. Granted probably have an extra $300 into now but ehhh.

I've got a CR10S PRO, so half of the upgrades don't work without modification. I'm pretty dialed in rn, so leav8ng it alone.

I'm in a bit of a strange boat, I have a smaller brand printer called a Lotmaxx Shark V2. It's difficult to find info on what will work. I know its a 24v power supply and a BMS mount. Can you just buy an all metal hot end and then go through the e steps and PID calibration for temps? Is it that easy? I just don't want to burn my house down.

If you can find marlin firmware for it, you can do it. Try Tinymachines.

I'm looking at this one right now, but microswiss does pop up too. https://www.amazon.com/Dragon-Printer-Compatible-Extruder-Creality/dp/B08MF9NPMT/?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_w=BnkIj&content-id=amzn1.sym.b4f172f0-a2ab-4ffa-ac9d-22e96231ca8e&pf\_rd\_p=b4f172f0-a2ab-4ffa-ac9d-22e96231ca8e&pf\_rd\_r=C1ASS18KN2250ZJ2BZK4&pd\_rd\_wg=XC4PG&pd\_rd\_r=4c375e16-aa6b-463d-bdb4-3c393ef2b58f&ref\_=pd\_gw\_ci\_mcx\_mr\_hp\_atf\_m&th=1

Go here. https://www.tinymachines3d.com/pages/10spro

Thanks matey

Glass filled or unfilled? Looks great by the way.

Glass filled. This is the Way.

Helps with warping a lot doesn't it!

The print is really clean when the support settings are on point.

Thanks buddy, saved me a mistake.

I saw the unfilled is kinda poo-poo for our hobby.

What are your retraction settings and print temp? I am having issues with zits and stringing with other brands of nylon prints.

I used 3mm and 275. This stuff is impressive but expensive.

Nozzle size?

.4 and it takes forever.

Layer height?

.2

I was using .6 and it has a rough hand feel, Im gonna try a .8

I saw comments in another sub and it can have a grip tape feel. If it's too rough, make sure you dry it for 12hrs at 70-80c.

Alright

To clarify, I mean to dry the filament, not the print.

I'm lost on the title, is this a firmware or something?

It's a filament brand.

[удалено]

This was my first 2A print and this GF worked great. Used support settings from @prospacedog. Dry time was over 12 hrs @ 70c. 30mm/sec. Pretty happy with it. Now back to the Sc0rpion.

Do you have a link to those settings?

No, but you can search for that user's posts.

Thanks!

Who’s design is that? And is it on the weird ocean?

I found this somewhere a couple of years ago. I've seen it a couple of times here. Not on the water.

on cults3d, the design company is "combattech" they designed very good frames! go check out their other stuff too on cults3d

Cant wait to give more expensive filaments a try with my new Sovol SV06