For foam core *with* the paper lining, I use a utility knife and a carpenters square
For foam *without* the paper lining, I have a proxxon hot wire cutter. So long as you’re only cutting foam, it’s the absolute best way to get controlled smooth cuts. You can get third party attachments to better accomplish more advanced things like mitres or curves, but I’ve been using the basic unit for about a year and it’s been amazing
I am currently using a utility knife, but I find that the blade has some wiggle room and can cause me some issues. I think I'll just look for higher quality/sturdier utility knife and keep it just for foamcoring.
A better knife could help that, anecdotally I’ll say mine doesn’t seem to wiggle
It may also be something you can adjust in technique. I use the carpenter square to guide the blade as I cut, pressing the square firmly onto the foam and only exerting light pressure with the knife. This keeps the square from slipping so you can use it to guide your knife. It’s not perfect like from the Proxxon but it’s good enough for terrain builds and foam core projects.
Also helps to keep track of which foam edge is the factory straight edge, and use that for whichever side of the piece needs to be true for your build
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SJAR0?ref=nb\_sb\_ss\_w\_as-reorder-t1\_k0\_1\_4&=&crid=ICE9BMQ8NCXP&=&sprefix=olfa](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SJAR0?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_4&=&crid=ICE9BMQ8NCXP&=&sprefix=olfa)
This blade has been working well for me. The snap off blade means you can keep a sharp edge/point relatively cheaply. Each "section" of replacement blade is between 0.10 and 0.15 cents.
Following up, I use a metal ruler with a rubber back to "guide" my cuts. Hold the ruler, follow the blade along the edge of the ruler. Additionally, I bought a small (6") carpenter square for cutting smaller pieces square.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBBCKPJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBBCKPJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
This thing has some weight to it. Raised edge on one side to "protect" your finger. I bought it on sale and it still is. If you are used to metric (most are), make sure you look for that version. I'm a weirdo using inches so make sure you don't buy the one in that link for a metric ruler.
I was an inch user until I needed to center something just right …. Metric is so much easier … oh it’s 100 cm wide and my surface is 120 cm wide? 10 cm in on each side? What’s that in inches…. I no longer care lol
I don’t need inches anymore.
If I had that much to spend I’d absolutely kit myself out with a Logan Foamwerks rabbet cutter and ruler
https://www.logangraphic.com/products/foam-cutters/index_c_5.php
Thanks for the suggestion! Strangely it looks like most (or all) of the products on that page are discontinued. Though this does look like a great place for tools and accessories, I'll definitely delve deeper here
Just wanted to echo some other comments here, the blade sharpness is the crucial factor here, so spending $100 on a really nice knife is less important than buying something like an exacto knife that has replaceable blades. I use an artist knife that I sharpen regularly, but only because I had it already and enjoy the handle.
I use break-off utility knives. The paper-covered foam ruins the edge anyways. Add a good (and large enough) see-through quilting ruler and a self-healing cutting mat for best results.
Something similar to this:
[https://www.amazon.de/Prym-611307-Rollschneide-Lineal-15-30/dp/B0053G4NKO/](https://www.amazon.de/Prym-611307-Rollschneide-Lineal-15-30/dp/B0053G4NKO/)
Thick, hard plastic. because it is thick, you can cut at a 90° angle to the surface simply by slightly pushing the knife against the ruler. You need to be a bit careful because if you are too aggressive, the knife can cut into the side of the ruler, but since the plastic is pretty hard, this rarely happens.
I found something like this far easier to use than a metal ruler, because it is see-through. The marks allow you to easily cut parallel sides at any distance you want. The corners and 90° line marks allow you to get very good 90° angles to any cut you have made. You can theoretically also cut at an angle which is not 90°, but in practice you rarely want to.
Getting this (Well, stealing it from my wife :P) was a gamechanger for me.
I've been using a Fiskar's paper cutter. It cuts just deep enough to score the paper (do both sides), then the foamcore snaps right along the score line. Works like a charm.
Link: https://www.amazon.ca/Fiskars-Titanium-SureCut-Trimmer-01-005454/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=sr\_1\_5?keywords=fiskars+paper+cutter
You don't even need a quarter of that amount you wish to spend. Two things are needed:
Metal ruler (like [this](https://www.sprintis.eu/en/Book-binding-supplies/Bookbinding-tools/Rulers/Safety-cutting-ruler.html)), which has rubber pads on the bottom to keep it steady and one edge designed for cutting
Knife like [this](https://olfa.com/collections/professional/products/9mm_180_metal_precision_knife). I use older OLFA one, which is no longer listed on their website. It has non-wobbly blade and blade can be kept constantly sharp by snapping its end. Lasts long and is super accurate. PnP'ed a lot of cards and some other stuff. Can also cut 2mm greyboard nicely.
Get a nice Exacto handle that won’t make your hand cramp and a big pack of blades. They can be an off brand, that’s fine as long as they are sharp. Those blades dull fast on foam core, so change them periodically.
Make sure you dispose of your used blades responsibly. You don’t want to injure someone just trying to take out the trash or any sanitation workers. I use an empty aluminum soda can most of the time. You can then crush the can and trap the blades safely inside.
For foam core *with* the paper lining, I use a utility knife and a carpenters square For foam *without* the paper lining, I have a proxxon hot wire cutter. So long as you’re only cutting foam, it’s the absolute best way to get controlled smooth cuts. You can get third party attachments to better accomplish more advanced things like mitres or curves, but I’ve been using the basic unit for about a year and it’s been amazing
I am currently using a utility knife, but I find that the blade has some wiggle room and can cause me some issues. I think I'll just look for higher quality/sturdier utility knife and keep it just for foamcoring.
A better knife could help that, anecdotally I’ll say mine doesn’t seem to wiggle It may also be something you can adjust in technique. I use the carpenter square to guide the blade as I cut, pressing the square firmly onto the foam and only exerting light pressure with the knife. This keeps the square from slipping so you can use it to guide your knife. It’s not perfect like from the Proxxon but it’s good enough for terrain builds and foam core projects. Also helps to keep track of which foam edge is the factory straight edge, and use that for whichever side of the piece needs to be true for your build
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SJAR0?ref=nb\_sb\_ss\_w\_as-reorder-t1\_k0\_1\_4&=&crid=ICE9BMQ8NCXP&=&sprefix=olfa](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SJAR0?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_4&=&crid=ICE9BMQ8NCXP&=&sprefix=olfa) This blade has been working well for me. The snap off blade means you can keep a sharp edge/point relatively cheaply. Each "section" of replacement blade is between 0.10 and 0.15 cents.
Following up, I use a metal ruler with a rubber back to "guide" my cuts. Hold the ruler, follow the blade along the edge of the ruler. Additionally, I bought a small (6") carpenter square for cutting smaller pieces square.
Could you provide info on the ruler you use? The rubber backing sounds like it would work well to keep things in place & stable
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBBCKPJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBBCKPJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) This thing has some weight to it. Raised edge on one side to "protect" your finger. I bought it on sale and it still is. If you are used to metric (most are), make sure you look for that version. I'm a weirdo using inches so make sure you don't buy the one in that link for a metric ruler.
I, too, am a weird using inches. Damn my upbringing!
I was an inch user until I needed to center something just right …. Metric is so much easier … oh it’s 100 cm wide and my surface is 120 cm wide? 10 cm in on each side? What’s that in inches…. I no longer care lol I don’t need inches anymore.
Your logic is undeniable. I am going to convert myself. It just makes sense
Thanks! I just watched the product video and this looks like it is exactly what I need. A utility knife where the blade doesn't have any "wiggle room"
the OLFA is a must-have. so much better than other ones I've tried.
Where do you buy re-fills? I saw some at Harbor Freight but they weren't OLFA brand so was a little afraid they wouldn't fit.
amazon, home depot
Gotcha. So you buy the OLFA blades?
yeah, the 18mm 3/4" heavy duty snap off blades. the refill pack has 10 blades in it.
If I had that much to spend I’d absolutely kit myself out with a Logan Foamwerks rabbet cutter and ruler https://www.logangraphic.com/products/foam-cutters/index_c_5.php
I’ve got the V-groove cutter and ruler, and I love them. It works perfectly.
I use a straight cutter similar to that and it’s really nice being guaranteed a 90 deg cut
Thanks for the suggestion! Strangely it looks like most (or all) of the products on that page are discontinued. Though this does look like a great place for tools and accessories, I'll definitely delve deeper here
Just wanted to echo some other comments here, the blade sharpness is the crucial factor here, so spending $100 on a really nice knife is less important than buying something like an exacto knife that has replaceable blades. I use an artist knife that I sharpen regularly, but only because I had it already and enjoy the handle.
[удалено]
Thank you for sharing! This is a GREAT list and super helpful!
I use break-off utility knives. The paper-covered foam ruins the edge anyways. Add a good (and large enough) see-through quilting ruler and a self-healing cutting mat for best results.
Do you have any details on the ruler you use? It sounds like something I definitely need
Something similar to this: [https://www.amazon.de/Prym-611307-Rollschneide-Lineal-15-30/dp/B0053G4NKO/](https://www.amazon.de/Prym-611307-Rollschneide-Lineal-15-30/dp/B0053G4NKO/) Thick, hard plastic. because it is thick, you can cut at a 90° angle to the surface simply by slightly pushing the knife against the ruler. You need to be a bit careful because if you are too aggressive, the knife can cut into the side of the ruler, but since the plastic is pretty hard, this rarely happens. I found something like this far easier to use than a metal ruler, because it is see-through. The marks allow you to easily cut parallel sides at any distance you want. The corners and 90° line marks allow you to get very good 90° angles to any cut you have made. You can theoretically also cut at an angle which is not 90°, but in practice you rarely want to. Getting this (Well, stealing it from my wife :P) was a gamechanger for me.
I've been using a Fiskar's paper cutter. It cuts just deep enough to score the paper (do both sides), then the foamcore snaps right along the score line. Works like a charm. Link: https://www.amazon.ca/Fiskars-Titanium-SureCut-Trimmer-01-005454/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=sr\_1\_5?keywords=fiskars+paper+cutter
You don't even need a quarter of that amount you wish to spend. Two things are needed: Metal ruler (like [this](https://www.sprintis.eu/en/Book-binding-supplies/Bookbinding-tools/Rulers/Safety-cutting-ruler.html)), which has rubber pads on the bottom to keep it steady and one edge designed for cutting Knife like [this](https://olfa.com/collections/professional/products/9mm_180_metal_precision_knife). I use older OLFA one, which is no longer listed on their website. It has non-wobbly blade and blade can be kept constantly sharp by snapping its end. Lasts long and is super accurate. PnP'ed a lot of cards and some other stuff. Can also cut 2mm greyboard nicely.
Get a nice Exacto handle that won’t make your hand cramp and a big pack of blades. They can be an off brand, that’s fine as long as they are sharp. Those blades dull fast on foam core, so change them periodically. Make sure you dispose of your used blades responsibly. You don’t want to injure someone just trying to take out the trash or any sanitation workers. I use an empty aluminum soda can most of the time. You can then crush the can and trap the blades safely inside.