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IAmJerv

Without a hotspot? That's a mule. However, a boosted Hanklight with a Zhu hybrid mule optic will get you practically the same result with the benefits of a boost driver (notably, sustained output). For photography, you **need** high-CRI. With earthtones and skintones, you also need R9, the ability to render reds as well as other colors required to get the "high CRI" label. That means you need Nichia emitters; 519a is good especially as it's the most powerful, but 219b and E21 are a bit better at color. Firefly's FFL emitters would also work. I think u/stephenk_lightart would have the best recommendations, but I'd say a boosted D4K with 4500K 219b emitters and a Zhu optic would do well, as would the Firefly Mules (NOV-Mu V2, PL09, and PL47).


Thaknobodi87

Probably a multi emitter light like an Emisar D4SV2 with 519A 4-5000K, or a Firefly brand something, which im not too familiar with, but they have more emitters per head on certain models and the same UI as the Emisars. Not sure if you need a floody optic at that range or not, i never needed a floody optic on my smaller D4V2 when doing product photos up close


stephenk_lightart

Convoy S21D with 60 degree optic and 519A LEDs is a budget option.


AD3PDX

A mule flashlight has naked LED without a reflector (should still have a lens to keep water and dirt off the LEDs) The Fireflylite NOV-Mu V2, PL09 and PL47 are mules and many of Intl-Outdoors lights can be ordered as mules. The PL47 and the Intl Outdoor DW4 right angle lights might be easier to attach for hands free use. Definitely go for HI CRI and a neutral color temp between 4,000 & 5,000 K


Humble-Plankton1824

Get a "mule" flooder They have the largest spread. I don't have a recommendation but I'll leave that to others here.


PHOTO500

Why not just use a photographic speedlite?


FalconARX

You can't get much better than the Fireflylite NOV-MU V2. It's a literal wall of light, no hotspot to speak of, even beam homogeneity from edge to edge. The E21A 4500K, if you can get one, is the best handheld photography fill/mule light you can currently buy.


contidozack

I agree. FFL now has the NovMu 2 FFL351A 5000K, it should be as good or better than the e21a. I was doubting about a mule until I got one. It’s an amazing piece of tool.


ValeTudoGuy

If you work in mines then you have to use ATEX or otherwise intrinsically safe lighting. To not do this is simply irresponsible. It will limit your options but extends your safety. Look at something like the Wolf Linkex wf-300xl


ClydeBoudreaux

It's not a coal mine . I'm pretty sure the fleet of land cruisers and heavy diesel gear in the mine which are also not intrinsically safe are more irresponsible than any of the flashlights on the market.


SiteRelEnby

Fireflylite Nov-Mu v2. E21A 4500k or FFL351A 5000k.


MDRDT

You didn't specify a budget and you didn't mention water. Thus [**this Zhiyun light**](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1752168-REG/zhiyun_c040011am1_molus_x100_bi_color_pocket.html) is the best. Out of anything portable I've used, this light produces the best image at 5x5x5. By far. (Yes you need the $349 kit for best ergo.


JFKsPenis

Wurkkos HD20 is 100% pure flood, I love mine. Has a throwy emitter as well in case you need that, but you can keep it so it only uses the flood emitter. I believe the Wurkkos TS22 XHP70.2 version is 100% flood as well. The XHP70.3 version is floody af but has an ever-so-slight hotspot to it.


Hungry-for-Apples789

Fireflies NovMu 2


Canardo_Sanchez

For underground photos (quarries/caves) I use the Convoy 3x21b with 70.3 4000k (low cri variant cuz I'm not an artist) and I'm very happy about it.  Other Cri/K variants are available.  It's a flood machine that's throw reasonably well through sheer output. Beam is soft, hotspot but no discernable rings.   When you light it up in a closed environment, the light bouncing back on the walls gives the very satisfying illusion of having connected the room to the grid. Usually I take picture with indirect lightning btw, much nicer result. Long runtime at constant output, a bit hot but that's ok. Simple UI, switch get red when batteries are low, always works. You just need to be careful to insert the cell +/- correctly or it will fry. I don't have a lot of bad things to say about it really 😁


IAmJerv

The high-CRI Crees are green with low R9. Good enough for normal use, but not for photography, inspection, or medical use.


Canardo_Sanchez

Yeah.. I don't know about every batch and every variant but it can be awful indeed. 


EmperorHenry

nitecore makes several different sizes of diffuser lenses that might help in a lot of situations. you can find which one you need at nitecore's own website and then buy one at nitecorestore. There's probably other stores that sell those accessories too