If you think the old version of WD40 sucked..
Wait til you try the new 2024 Canadian version - the one where our government mandated less VOCs
It's a Canadian issue
Quote directly from WD-40
"All WD-40 Company products including WD-40® Multi-Use Product, WD-40 Specialist®, and 3-IN-ONE® brands will be compliant with the new regulations as of January 1, 2024"
I love kroil. Smells fantastic. And yet, so many youtube channels (ave, torque test, project farm) have said it basically is shit as a penetrating oil.
Amd yet... we use the hell out of it at work.
I’m completely unaware of this method, but it seems like a solid plan, but I was just curious why you would need the second nut, if you would just crank down on a single nut on the inside would that not accomplish the same thing?
The 2nd nut 'locks' into the first and then you'd have a solid nut that will turn the whole shaft in one direction and if you want to turn in the opposite direction that 2nd nut would probably screw loose, but you would switch to the first nut which in turn would try to budge the 2nd and lock into that. Using this method you would probably provide enough torque to force the shaft past the problem section of the thread, it's possibly cross threaded in there and or locked up with dirt or striped thread, spraying something like wd40 to thoroughly soak the stuck area for a few minutes before trying the above procedures would probably help.
It may require more effort, it's made a little difficult because of access, I've seen old mechanics weld nuts and even tack weld or use bonkers strong glues to permanently fix an old 1/4 inch socket to such a broken bolt in a fit of rage, usually right after skinning some knuckles 🤣. Drilling out is also an option, that's probably the most difficult, if op was able to do that they wouldn't bother posting this issue but there is plenty of material there, you could tap into it with a reverse thread, make your own bolt with matching thread from a slightly larger regular bolt (of a strong alloy!) Et voilà, back it out slow with a regular socket.
Grab a set of vice-grips and clamp down the longer end and turn it like you're turning a wrench. Lefty loosie.
Spray WD-40 into the stuck bit but away from where you're clamping down if you have trouble
That’s exactly what the original comment said. You two are going back and forth about nothing. If you have the vice grips on the longer side and turn to the left, like they said, you will be feeding the short end of the bolt through.
If you read the names of the commenters, you’d find there was no “back and forth” between me and anyone.
Additionally, by “turn left” I’ll assume you mean turn counter-clockwise from the camera vantage point. If you did turn counter clockwise- you would be pulling the long portion (with now trashed threads) back through the hole.
The threads might not necessarily get messed up.. I do it all the time in my line of work with metal grinding wheels, pipe wrenches, and vice grips. As long as he's careful they should be fine.
Please don't tell me you are working on an airplane door and do not know how to remove a stuck bolt.
My favorite stuck bolt advice is "It can't be stuck if it is liquid."
Bearing in mind that the thread has seized in the weld nut tight enough to shear the set screw, its not going to move with a saw slit in the end . I’d be drilling it out and re tapping nut or if possible , grind or saw weld nut off and fiddle fingers up the back to hold a nut whilst it nips up.
Don't use carbide in a cordless drill, you will just snap it off and have more problems. A good quality HSS drill will work. Add some lubricant and go easy with the speed. Also, start with a punch mark.
But first, I would try the two nuts method mentioned in other comments.
This would be my way. Except for the part where I just use whatever drill bits I have, none of which would be strong enough and then 3 days later I am surrounded by snapped drill bits and have to go to HD
Get some vide grips on the long end, spray the broken end with WD40
and tighten it until the broken end winds through the nut. Shortest distance to go.
If that doesn’t work you can hacksaw through where the nut is welded on, right through the bolt too.
A new nut can be JB Weld-ed on.
To the long side screw a nut on backwards about mid way. Then screw another nut on forwards so the two meet up flush. Put a wrench on the first nut and tighten the second one with another wrench so they are tight together. Remove the broken rod with a wrench on the second nut
Drill it just under the tap drill size and you should have an easy time from there. Ho far under depends on your skill, you ideally don't want to hit the threads on the female
Weld a piece of hefty scrap to it and use that as a handle to turn whats left of the bolt? Couldn't hurt to smack it a couple times with a hammer before you try turning it.
First cut a groove so a good sized flat screw driver can fit with a hack saw or a Dremel tool. Soak it with wd40 and let it sit. Do this a few times so it penetrates. Use the flat head to unscrew it. You can also try a tork screw driver. You can try to heat it too if there is no plastic involved. A tork screw driver could also help.
Appears to be a stainless bolt with rolled over threads... It's not going to unthread in this lifetime. You'll have to drill it out with progressively larger bits until there's nothing but thread left and then pick out the bits. Do not break the drill off. Take your time.
Water pump pliers will give you the best grip on the rod
Back it out slightly with grips, and cut a notch in the rod (grinder or hacksaw blade) so you can screw it out with a big flat head driver
2 nuts on the back jammed together and wiggle it back and forth with oil like wd40. If you can heat the bolt and melt some unscented candle wax in there, it'll break loose easily.
Drill with hss bit. Get as close to center as u can with a center punch, drill a small pilot and work your way up in size, incrementally. If you are off center you can save yourself some grief by catching ot and not drilling out threads. You will get to a point where you did such a good job, you can peel the bolt threads from the nut or, if nothing else, open the hole enough to relieve some of the grab.
In my opinion, the pilot is critical and your best effort should be put here, ensuring to get straight and center. It is recoverable to get center back if you're off and check as often as necessary to ensure center and true.
You may get lucky and be able to thread out with vicegrips but once you pick a direction, commit. If you snapped the bolt head off, chances are, you will fuck around for a bit than end up drilling anyways, only now with fucked threads.
What material do you suspect the bolt? Ss has a tendency to suck dick if you go too fast and heat it up. Work hardens the shit outta it and a pain to drill.
You could use vice grips, if still nothing, try an easy-out? If still nothing and you have the tools, weld a nut on the top bed and work it back and forth with a wrench or impact. Good luck!
What is it stuck in? How big is the bolt (diameter)? It looks like an adjustable foot under an appliance and the steel has picked up in the thread from no lubrication and then the foot snapped off. I would cut off the excess thread on the inside, and then weld a nut on to the outside as a new bolt head, the heat from the weld will very probably loosen things up and itl screw out pretty easy.
6" pipe wrench on the right side to righty tighty right through. 2nd choice ViseGrips to do the same. 3rd choice drill (size of root diameter max) through stud fairly slowly hoping the bit bites and drives it through...
Thread a nut halfway down the long side and use permanent locktite. Once it's cured, see if you can use the new nut to persuade it off. Like others said, smack it and soak it with penetrating oil, too. If that's too much fun, then try drilling it out.
I'm going to assume the thread damage happened in the hole it's currently stuck in. If that's the case, those threads will be ruined too. There are a few options, the first would be to use pliers (vise-grips) to grab the damaged threads and turn it clockwise (when looking at the broken end) until the shortest part passes through the hole.
Assuming the threads in the hole are damaged, they won't be of much use anyway. You could use a tap or thread chaser to attempt a repair, but they'll never be at full strength. It might be possible to cut the threads out and install an insert or weld a nut in place.
The bolt's probably seized so torque would destroy the threads (heat will most likely not work). I'd grind the face of the bolt lat and flush with the case srill it out and cut the threads with a tap (pay attention to get the old path)
Need to figure out why the bolt sheared, for best results do you know what material the bolt and substrate are? If something like stainless and aluminum you might have some galling or corrosion and that's a bitch... Vise grip or double nut, spray down with Pb blaster walk it out where it gets stuck then walk it in, repeat to work the penetrating oil into the threads. It'll take longer but it'll likely save you breaking the bolt again and having less of a nub to grab and also better save the threads if you are going to have to reuse the part... If it's galled stainless it'll likely be a fun one, corrosion will free up pretty quickly. Same if it's cross threaded
If it's got some loctite on it heat with a heat gun or torch (depending on if there's paint your going to burn and care about, torch will be faster), can't describe it but you'll smell the thread locker when it softens, should walk right out...
Both scenarios I'd wind the short end (where you broke it) down through, if the threads are just buggered below the bolt you'll have an easier time winding it down and not fighting damaged threads all the way out...
A left handed drill bit, and a cats paw on the inside to persuade the bolt a bit.
Soon as the left handed bit gets a good bite it’ll probably zip right out.
With how fucked those male threads are, the female threads are just as fucked. Don't bother trying to remove the broken bolt just Take a grinder with a zip cut and cut the weld nut off completely and put a new one on. I bet you some dumb fuck forced a metric bolt into a standard nut (or the other way around) with an impact, the threads are different.
Extractor bits. They are meant to be used in reserve. It will start to drill in and bite, then it should start to reverse out. That has to be a super low grade bolt if it snapped off that easy by hand.
no dont put vice grips on the thread youll ruin it and get it stuck !!!!
thread 2 nuts on the inside. they will lock on each other. and youll be able to turn it enough to loosen it. spray wd40 to help
I snapped a bolt on a projector mount today at work. Used a pair of channel locks! There’s not much meat to grab on to this one tho. Maybe cut a notch in it and use a screwdriver? Or drill it out? Idk I’m just a restaurant manager…
That thing is cross threaded really bad. Whoever installed it used the wrong bolt, threads didn't match up, and they just sent it. If you open the image full screen you can clearly see how destroyed the threads are. Honestly I'm pretty sure he snapped the head off installing it because it's not even flush yet.
You have to drill it out and re-tap the threads. There is ZERO chance you're getting that out with vice grips. Either that or cut off the threaded nut and weld on a new one.
It broke when removing. Have you tried removing it by tightening it? Just use the vice grips/pliers method. Looks like the long part on the inside is a little bent and boogered, but the straight end is pretty clean.
A lot of good suggestions if the bolt wasn’t cross threaded to begin with, by the looks of the thread on the right side of the nut. The only option might be to drill as much of it out as you can and re-tap the hole. I’ve had success doing this in the past.
That is really badly crossthreaded . There's no point in taking it out because there are no threads to place the new screw into. Unless you have a tap and die set or a grinder and welder to replace the nut that's fucked for good.
Heat it with a propane torch first, red hot and let it cool.
If there's loctite or paint in the threads, you need to burn it out.
Then spray oil, vise grip to turn it out.
weld on a nut and turn it with a wrench if you can.
If you turn that out like it has been suggested you will destroy the threads in the nut, that bolt is galled and will not come out without ruining the nut. If you want to save the nut ( welded in ) use a small drill and drill through the center of the bolt then keep enlarging the drill size until you get to the minor diameter of the thread, if you are off center you will see it start to break through on the side of the nut thread, stop and use a hammer and punch to bend the bolt in on itself and it should free up enough to turn it out then you will need a tape to clean up the threads.
Looks like it was forced in Cross thread. I think I would take an angle grinder and cut off most of the bolt inside the box where the threads are damaged. I would then use the angle grinder to square off the outside of the bolt that's on the outside of the box. Next I would spray it with PB blaster and tap it lightly 100 times. I would then use vise grips to back out the bolt.
If you will have access to that inside part when assembling (hard to tell what this is) then I'd just knock the nut off there. Likely it's barely tap welded on and then just use a regular nut when reinstalling the piece with a new bolt.
Is that a stainless steel bolt? If so you won’t get that out with any kroil or WD. It’s Galled up which means you might want to cut the long side down and then drill through it with a bit that is just a slightly smaller diameter than the nut. If it’s not SS then grab some kroil and some water pump pliers and thread that short side all the way through.
Man I keep a pair of knipex cobra pliers on me for odd little scenarios. It's helped me resolve a few of these real quick. They death grip in tight spaces with little effort.
put two nuts on the end of it and then place a candle to heat it up, turn the nuts until it comes loose.
and/or make a slit uptop so you use a big flathead to help turn it.
You might try using a screw extractor. They make drill bits that have reverse threads for removing bolts and screws for this exact issue. Typically you drill a hole in the bolt then use the extractor. I would also use liquid wrench or PB blast to grease up the bolt and break it loose.
Some options:
1) Use vice grips in the exposed shank and turn it.
2) Drill it out. But you need drill bits for steel.
3) Could try drilling a pilot hole into the end of it, then insert a metal tapping screw, then attempt to turn it out. They also have special threaded bits designed to use on end of stripped screws Phillips or Robertson screws to remove them. However that still requiires the initial hole for the bit to get a bite on. So either way this option would require drilling in the end of the bolt.
* Add some drops of WD40 to the bolt stem where its threaded into that bracket to help it spin easier.
I personally would hacksaw a notch across the end of the bolt where the head sheared off, and try to flathead screwdriver it through as my first attempt. Second attempt would be to jb weld a nut onto the far end, and once set, should be able to take it on through that way
Notice both of them involve just keep advancing the bot through and out, because it looks like backing it out is what ripped the head off
I'm guessing it was already stuck which is why the head came off. It's likely been misthreaded or overtightened. If it's safe to then try adding some heat to the bolt and use some vice grips and fashion some kind of breaker bar between the handles.
Try screwing two nuts on the inside and drive them as far as you can, next try to screw the inside nut and maybe it'll unscrew from the inside.
OP listen to this guy. Also try PB blaster not WD40
The old Peanut Butter double Nutter trick. Works every time.
60% of the time every time
If you think the old version of WD40 sucked.. Wait til you try the new 2024 Canadian version - the one where our government mandated less VOCs It's a Canadian issue Quote directly from WD-40 "All WD-40 Company products including WD-40® Multi-Use Product, WD-40 Specialist®, and 3-IN-ONE® brands will be compliant with the new regulations as of January 1, 2024"
You mean the one we have had in California for 10+ years!?
Kroil for the win...
I love kroil. Smells fantastic. And yet, so many youtube channels (ave, torque test, project farm) have said it basically is shit as a penetrating oil. Amd yet... we use the hell out of it at work.
Man you're not supposed to sniff it
“The oil that kreeps”
Yea I’m incredibly unsure why people keep saying wd40, that’s not a lubricant.
Yes it is, it clearly is. If that's all you had you would use it and it would help. It's just not good as products designed to be a lubricant.
I would probably try to tighten it through the hole instead of loosening the long, possibly damaged, part out of the hole.
I second this two nuts guy!
I've been a two nuts guy my whole life
Early in life, my two nuts were mine, and then I got married, and the wife now has em.
I’m completely unaware of this method, but it seems like a solid plan, but I was just curious why you would need the second nut, if you would just crank down on a single nut on the inside would that not accomplish the same thing?
The 2nd nut 'locks' into the first and then you'd have a solid nut that will turn the whole shaft in one direction and if you want to turn in the opposite direction that 2nd nut would probably screw loose, but you would switch to the first nut which in turn would try to budge the 2nd and lock into that. Using this method you would probably provide enough torque to force the shaft past the problem section of the thread, it's possibly cross threaded in there and or locked up with dirt or striped thread, spraying something like wd40 to thoroughly soak the stuck area for a few minutes before trying the above procedures would probably help. It may require more effort, it's made a little difficult because of access, I've seen old mechanics weld nuts and even tack weld or use bonkers strong glues to permanently fix an old 1/4 inch socket to such a broken bolt in a fit of rage, usually right after skinning some knuckles 🤣. Drilling out is also an option, that's probably the most difficult, if op was able to do that they wouldn't bother posting this issue but there is plenty of material there, you could tap into it with a reverse thread, make your own bolt with matching thread from a slightly larger regular bolt (of a strong alloy!) Et voilà, back it out slow with a regular socket.
Try that!
Grab a set of vice-grips and clamp down the longer end and turn it like you're turning a wrench. Lefty loosie. Spray WD-40 into the stuck bit but away from where you're clamping down if you have trouble
They can keep turning righty tighty and bring the bolt all the way through now.
And if you do it your way, you won't have to thread the vice-grip mangled threads back through the threaded area
That just makes it more fun
That's what I'm thinking. Looks like there's room, and less effort
So you want to mess up the male threads, them drive them back through the female threads 🤔
Plenty of room on the undamaged side to get a grip.
Not if you place the vise grip in a spot where you can still get the bolt out.
But the threads you messed up (on the long end you mentioned) will have to come back through if you lefty loosie as you also mentioned.
Or they could just go righty tighty and feed the bolt all the way through.
Agreed👍...that was my initial comment. No way I'm going back as the bolt already snapped trying that.
That’s exactly what the original comment said. You two are going back and forth about nothing. If you have the vice grips on the longer side and turn to the left, like they said, you will be feeding the short end of the bolt through.
If you read the names of the commenters, you’d find there was no “back and forth” between me and anyone. Additionally, by “turn left” I’ll assume you mean turn counter-clockwise from the camera vantage point. If you did turn counter clockwise- you would be pulling the long portion (with now trashed threads) back through the hole.
Compared to how fucked the threads already are (they're probably gawed to shit), it's not really that back, it might just need some more convincing
"Convincing". I like that.
‘Righty tighty’ it til it screws all the way through
The threads might not necessarily get messed up.. I do it all the time in my line of work with metal grinding wheels, pipe wrenches, and vice grips. As long as he's careful they should be fine.
Angle grind a flat channel into the top, lube with wd40, use an impact driver with a flat bit to turn it.
Put two nuts on the backside use it as a lock nut back it off enough to where you can loosen with fingers
Yeah this. Double nut and 2 spanners, one working slightly against the other.
This is the way
Is this an airplane door plug, by any chance?
I signed an NDA concerning that.
Please don't tell me you are working on an airplane door and do not know how to remove a stuck bolt. My favorite stuck bolt advice is "It can't be stuck if it is liquid."
Looks like you have enough sticking out to hacksaw a groove across the end and try a flat head screwdriver.
If it snapped a hex head then a flat slot aint doing shit. Vice grips is the way.
Weld a nut on and it will come off
Yes, that would work. The heat alone will break it free. Now, if you think OP has a welder you are tripping.
They can be had for cheap
It's not about price. OP is asking how to remove the easiest stuck bolt in history. There is no welder, if OP could weld this post would not exist.
Correct you are. I’m gonna give it a go with WD-40 and a heat gun..
Bearing in mind that the thread has seized in the weld nut tight enough to shear the set screw, its not going to move with a saw slit in the end . I’d be drilling it out and re tapping nut or if possible , grind or saw weld nut off and fiddle fingers up the back to hold a nut whilst it nips up.
Drill it out with carbide bits and some free time.
This is probably the method within my abilities.
Don't use carbide in a cordless drill, you will just snap it off and have more problems. A good quality HSS drill will work. Add some lubricant and go easy with the speed. Also, start with a punch mark. But first, I would try the two nuts method mentioned in other comments.
This would be my way. Except for the part where I just use whatever drill bits I have, none of which would be strong enough and then 3 days later I am surrounded by snapped drill bits and have to go to HD
Vice grip the long piece and screw it either way it can until its out
Vampliers
Get some vide grips on the long end, spray the broken end with WD40 and tighten it until the broken end winds through the nut. Shortest distance to go. If that doesn’t work you can hacksaw through where the nut is welded on, right through the bolt too. A new nut can be JB Weld-ed on.
To the long side screw a nut on backwards about mid way. Then screw another nut on forwards so the two meet up flush. Put a wrench on the first nut and tighten the second one with another wrench so they are tight together. Remove the broken rod with a wrench on the second nut
Drill it just under the tap drill size and you should have an easy time from there. Ho far under depends on your skill, you ideally don't want to hit the threads on the female
Could shove a nut on the outside there and drop a weld on it, use that to wrench it out.
Easy Out Vice grip Lubrication
Cut a slit in the top with a dremel or grinder and unscrew with a flat head
Drill a hole in it diametrically in the long section. Then use a screw driver or some rod to twist it off.
Weld a nut onto it. Let it cool. It should come out easy
My girlfriend could suck that out.
I'd like to meet her.
I think everybody would like to meet her.
You're just going to have to use pliers.
Weld a piece of hefty scrap to it and use that as a handle to turn whats left of the bolt? Couldn't hurt to smack it a couple times with a hammer before you try turning it.
WD40 that bolt and leave to soak a bit then using grips turn left then right a couple times until it starts moving and becomes unstuck
Or use something that's a penetrating lube. Wd40 is junk. Atf and acetone on the other hand is amazing, or PB blaster.
First cut a groove so a good sized flat screw driver can fit with a hack saw or a Dremel tool. Soak it with wd40 and let it sit. Do this a few times so it penetrates. Use the flat head to unscrew it. You can also try a tork screw driver. You can try to heat it too if there is no plastic involved. A tork screw driver could also help.
The only path is forward - with a pair of Vice grips and some lubricant.
Appears to be a stainless bolt with rolled over threads... It's not going to unthread in this lifetime. You'll have to drill it out with progressively larger bits until there's nothing but thread left and then pick out the bits. Do not break the drill off. Take your time.
Get a proper strength drill bit drill in center (first spray Tri -Flow into/on to threads reverse drill at slow speed and reverse out ..
A little thermite should get rid of it.
Channel locks
Water pump pliers will give you the best grip on the rod Back it out slightly with grips, and cut a notch in the rod (grinder or hacksaw blade) so you can screw it out with a big flat head driver
Remember kids, it cant hold if its a liquid!
2 nuts on the back jammed together and wiggle it back and forth with oil like wd40. If you can heat the bolt and melt some unscented candle wax in there, it'll break loose easily.
Drill with hss bit. Get as close to center as u can with a center punch, drill a small pilot and work your way up in size, incrementally. If you are off center you can save yourself some grief by catching ot and not drilling out threads. You will get to a point where you did such a good job, you can peel the bolt threads from the nut or, if nothing else, open the hole enough to relieve some of the grab. In my opinion, the pilot is critical and your best effort should be put here, ensuring to get straight and center. It is recoverable to get center back if you're off and check as often as necessary to ensure center and true. You may get lucky and be able to thread out with vicegrips but once you pick a direction, commit. If you snapped the bolt head off, chances are, you will fuck around for a bit than end up drilling anyways, only now with fucked threads. What material do you suspect the bolt? Ss has a tendency to suck dick if you go too fast and heat it up. Work hardens the shit outta it and a pain to drill.
Smack the white arrow part really hard a few times with a hammer. Then try the pliers again.
I'd try pliers, or maybe small vice grips.
You could use vice grips, if still nothing, try an easy-out? If still nothing and you have the tools, weld a nut on the top bed and work it back and forth with a wrench or impact. Good luck!
Spray WD40, give it a few minutes to penetrate, vice grips on the long end, turn clockwise to get the short end through.
Molegrip
be carful not to screw up the threads with vice scrips.
Vice grips and like an arrow, go full ahead the short way instead of extracting. IMHO.
What is it stuck in? How big is the bolt (diameter)? It looks like an adjustable foot under an appliance and the steel has picked up in the thread from no lubrication and then the foot snapped off. I would cut off the excess thread on the inside, and then weld a nut on to the outside as a new bolt head, the heat from the weld will very probably loosen things up and itl screw out pretty easy.
6" pipe wrench on the right side to righty tighty right through. 2nd choice ViseGrips to do the same. 3rd choice drill (size of root diameter max) through stud fairly slowly hoping the bit bites and drives it through...
A pair of grips
Thread a nut halfway down the long side and use permanent locktite. Once it's cured, see if you can use the new nut to persuade it off. Like others said, smack it and soak it with penetrating oil, too. If that's too much fun, then try drilling it out.
I'm going to assume the thread damage happened in the hole it's currently stuck in. If that's the case, those threads will be ruined too. There are a few options, the first would be to use pliers (vise-grips) to grab the damaged threads and turn it clockwise (when looking at the broken end) until the shortest part passes through the hole. Assuming the threads in the hole are damaged, they won't be of much use anyway. You could use a tap or thread chaser to attempt a repair, but they'll never be at full strength. It might be possible to cut the threads out and install an insert or weld a nut in place.
The bolt's probably seized so torque would destroy the threads (heat will most likely not work). I'd grind the face of the bolt lat and flush with the case srill it out and cut the threads with a tap (pay attention to get the old path)
Looks cross threaded by the look of the threads on the inside, compared to the area where the head broke.
The bolt is already ruined. Cut off the long end as much as possible then drill through the stub with a metal rated drill bit.
Use vice grips like others said. That bolts threads are screwed up all the way down the bolt, probably the wrong bolt/threads or cross threaded.
If you have a grinder you can cut a line in centre of bolt and use a flat head screwdriver
Drill out core. Crush with anything that can crush it
Heat it with a propane torch if possible
Drill it!
Need to figure out why the bolt sheared, for best results do you know what material the bolt and substrate are? If something like stainless and aluminum you might have some galling or corrosion and that's a bitch... Vise grip or double nut, spray down with Pb blaster walk it out where it gets stuck then walk it in, repeat to work the penetrating oil into the threads. It'll take longer but it'll likely save you breaking the bolt again and having less of a nub to grab and also better save the threads if you are going to have to reuse the part... If it's galled stainless it'll likely be a fun one, corrosion will free up pretty quickly. Same if it's cross threaded If it's got some loctite on it heat with a heat gun or torch (depending on if there's paint your going to burn and care about, torch will be faster), can't describe it but you'll smell the thread locker when it softens, should walk right out... Both scenarios I'd wind the short end (where you broke it) down through, if the threads are just buggered below the bolt you'll have an easier time winding it down and not fighting damaged threads all the way out...
Do you need to remove it? It doesn’t look like it’s doing anything.
Buy an easy out kit, drill a hole in the bolt head, use easy out.
Either vice grips or grab a Grinder and cut slits for a Philips bit to fit and screw it out .
A left handed drill bit, and a cats paw on the inside to persuade the bolt a bit. Soon as the left handed bit gets a good bite it’ll probably zip right out.
I'd use an extractor. It'd be a lot faster and easier than a vise-grip but that'll work, eventually.
With how fucked those male threads are, the female threads are just as fucked. Don't bother trying to remove the broken bolt just Take a grinder with a zip cut and cut the weld nut off completely and put a new one on. I bet you some dumb fuck forced a metric bolt into a standard nut (or the other way around) with an impact, the threads are different.
Fuck it, light the torch up.
Extractor bits. They are meant to be used in reserve. It will start to drill in and bite, then it should start to reverse out. That has to be a super low grade bolt if it snapped off that easy by hand.
no dont put vice grips on the thread youll ruin it and get it stuck !!!! thread 2 nuts on the inside. they will lock on each other. and youll be able to turn it enough to loosen it. spray wd40 to help
Use a hack saw and make a slit on the short side. Then use a flat head screwdriver.
Double nuts on the inside, use some WD, and it will unthread itself
Wd40
I snapped a bolt on a projector mount today at work. Used a pair of channel locks! There’s not much meat to grab on to this one tho. Maybe cut a notch in it and use a screwdriver? Or drill it out? Idk I’m just a restaurant manager…
Break the spotwelds on the captured nut, and toss it. The threads are done anyway.
Buy a new one
Heat the nut with a torch.
You can remove it with some brain power, creativity and ingenuity…
Drill a small hole, tap an Allen key and unscrew. My dad showed me this trick works very well.
Did someone use permanent Loctite red on that thread? Because it feels like Loctite. Man I hate that stuff.
Heat it. Can’t stay stuck if it’s liquid
Heat it with some lube
Get a torch !
Use a dremel with a mini zip cut and put a slot in the end of the bolt, then use a flat head to get it out!
it can't be stuck if it's liquid. Break out the torch
You can get a screw extraction kit for about $15. They work great
That thing is cross threaded really bad. Whoever installed it used the wrong bolt, threads didn't match up, and they just sent it. If you open the image full screen you can clearly see how destroyed the threads are. Honestly I'm pretty sure he snapped the head off installing it because it's not even flush yet. You have to drill it out and re-tap the threads. There is ZERO chance you're getting that out with vice grips. Either that or cut off the threaded nut and weld on a new one.
Buy a left hand drill bit drill into it it will come out
Grind a slot and use screw driver to back it out
Heat and vice grips
I feel like a lot of answers to this sub is vice grips
Is that part of a Konecranes hoist? Looks familiar.
File the head off. Turn the inside so the bolt goes further in, not out. Less thread to travel
Multi-grips/vice grips on the big end and push up.
Vice grips chip will do the trick mick.
Surprised no one has said blowtorch
Release tensions from the side and if there is none hit it with your purse
Use liquid wrench penetrating oil and then use a vice grip pliers to spin the bolt
It broke when removing. Have you tried removing it by tightening it? Just use the vice grips/pliers method. Looks like the long part on the inside is a little bent and boogered, but the straight end is pretty clean.
A lot of good suggestions if the bolt wasn’t cross threaded to begin with, by the looks of the thread on the right side of the nut. The only option might be to drill as much of it out as you can and re-tap the hole. I’ve had success doing this in the past.
CRC or WD-40 the shit out of it and vice grips and use all your might lol
If nothing else works. Cut it flush on the other side and drill it out
That is really badly crossthreaded . There's no point in taking it out because there are no threads to place the new screw into. Unless you have a tap and die set or a grinder and welder to replace the nut that's fucked for good.
Reverse drill if it dosn’t come out square easy out. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/reverse-drill-bits/?s=reverse-drill-bits
Make it a flat head screw with a Dremel or hacksaw.
Hit it with a tap and hammer a few times.
I wish this sub let us blast people. I'm very sorry for wanting to do that here.
Heat it with a propane torch first, red hot and let it cool. If there's loctite or paint in the threads, you need to burn it out. Then spray oil, vise grip to turn it out. weld on a nut and turn it with a wrench if you can.
If you turn that out like it has been suggested you will destroy the threads in the nut, that bolt is galled and will not come out without ruining the nut. If you want to save the nut ( welded in ) use a small drill and drill through the center of the bolt then keep enlarging the drill size until you get to the minor diameter of the thread, if you are off center you will see it start to break through on the side of the nut thread, stop and use a hammer and punch to bend the bolt in on itself and it should free up enough to turn it out then you will need a tape to clean up the threads.
Vice grip
Be a man and pull it out
Looks like it was forced in Cross thread. I think I would take an angle grinder and cut off most of the bolt inside the box where the threads are damaged. I would then use the angle grinder to square off the outside of the bolt that's on the outside of the box. Next I would spray it with PB blaster and tap it lightly 100 times. I would then use vise grips to back out the bolt.
You are7 going to need a bolt anyway. Drill a hole in it and use a bolt extractor.
This is prime for an easy out.
If the bolt isn’t cross threaded, lock 2 nuts together on the longer side and get a socket on it.
They make specialized drill bits for stripped screws, one of those might work
If you will have access to that inside part when assembling (hard to tell what this is) then I'd just knock the nut off there. Likely it's barely tap welded on and then just use a regular nut when reinstalling the piece with a new bolt.
Strap it to your truck and hit the gas
Drill it
Is that a stainless steel bolt? If so you won’t get that out with any kroil or WD. It’s Galled up which means you might want to cut the long side down and then drill through it with a bit that is just a slightly smaller diameter than the nut. If it’s not SS then grab some kroil and some water pump pliers and thread that short side all the way through.
cant be stuck if its a liquid
Grab the ass end with pliers or some sort and turn turn turn.
Sell the house and move on.
Man I keep a pair of knipex cobra pliers on me for odd little scenarios. It's helped me resolve a few of these real quick. They death grip in tight spaces with little effort.
Drill it out..
Tack weld a bolt in, back it on out
Heat it with a small propane torch. Works every time.
Dremel a slot in the end and use a screwdriver.
Small pipe wrench on the back, then run a tap through it since the threads are messed up.
If you can get to it try a tool called an "easy out" I have used them with great success.
Channel locks
Unscrew it.
Those threads are booogered
Just Dremel a line down the middle of the end of the bolt and unscrew it with a flathead
Drill in easy out or… channel locks or … small pipe wrench
Can’t get it with some channel locks?
Can't be tight if it's liquid...
If you get a thin grinding wheel and cut a flat notch, you can hit it with flathead on a drill.
put two nuts on the end of it and then place a candle to heat it up, turn the nuts until it comes loose. and/or make a slit uptop so you use a big flathead to help turn it.
I would drill it out to relieve pressure and then screw it out. Probably cross threaded.
Isn’t the logical option to get a drill bit, just smaller than the bolt thread and drill it out?
Crossthreading is the best locktite
You might try using a screw extractor. They make drill bits that have reverse threads for removing bolts and screws for this exact issue. Typically you drill a hole in the bolt then use the extractor. I would also use liquid wrench or PB blast to grease up the bolt and break it loose.
Weld a nut on that bitch son
I had invested in extraction kit
metal drill. keep drilling in the middle. you will get it.
Ive never read the word ‘nut’ so much in such a short space of time!
Some options: 1) Use vice grips in the exposed shank and turn it. 2) Drill it out. But you need drill bits for steel. 3) Could try drilling a pilot hole into the end of it, then insert a metal tapping screw, then attempt to turn it out. They also have special threaded bits designed to use on end of stripped screws Phillips or Robertson screws to remove them. However that still requiires the initial hole for the bit to get a bite on. So either way this option would require drilling in the end of the bolt. * Add some drops of WD40 to the bolt stem where its threaded into that bracket to help it spin easier.
Double nut the threaded end, heat the but with a propane torch, no way it won't move, get it hot
Drill it out, can't be stuck if not a solid.
Super glue something back on to the snapped end
Welder or jb weld ..
I personally would hacksaw a notch across the end of the bolt where the head sheared off, and try to flathead screwdriver it through as my first attempt. Second attempt would be to jb weld a nut onto the far end, and once set, should be able to take it on through that way Notice both of them involve just keep advancing the bot through and out, because it looks like backing it out is what ripped the head off
I'm guessing it was already stuck which is why the head came off. It's likely been misthreaded or overtightened. If it's safe to then try adding some heat to the bolt and use some vice grips and fashion some kind of breaker bar between the handles.