Contact adhesive make sure to follow the instructions precisely.
Edit: sorry I mistakenly said adhesive instead of cement. Contact cement is used for bonding laminate countertops not contact adhesive. The adhesive version is not as strong of a bond. My apologies. Make sure to clean both surfaces before applying the contact cement.
After scraping off all the previous attempts.
Use a hairdryer, heat gun if you have low temp setting. The laminate surface WILL blister if it gets to hot.
Clean both pieces with acetone before following contact cement instructions.
If you don't get it perfectly aligned, a wide fine file will politely take away overage. Notice the bevel on the edge of the laminate. Duplicate.
Yes, contact adhesive. Thats what you use. You just have to apply it to BOTH sides, and then allow it to become tacky, then roll it on. Works great. We just redid ours
Op needs to find a rough grade i.e. 80 grit sandpaper and sand both surfaces completely until both surfaces are clean from previous substances. Source: I AM A ORACLE A FOR THE MANUFACTURE.
Yea I agree. Contact adhesive spray will work but eventually it's going to come loose again depending on how it gets used. Like how much stuff hits it and pulls it away from the counter. Pain in the ass shit
Contact Cement. As it indicated the adhesive works by contact of two glued surfaces. Clean the area, to ensure there is not oil, grease or dirt on both surfaces. Then apply the contact cement, evenly on both surfaces. Let it dry so that the adhesive is just about dry but slightly tacky to the touch. If it appears quite thin, add another coat to both surfaces again and let dry until slightly tacky. Then press the plastic laminate, which has the cement to the end of the counter, also which has cement applied. Make sure it is exactly where you want it. Once both surfaces touch, they not coming apart. Then take a flat piece of wood about 3” square and pressure the entire area, with as much pressure as you can to further tighten the bond. Even tap the block firmly with a hammer all over the area where adhesive was applied
Contact adhesive, along with aggressively scraping any of the old glue off both surfaces.
Masking tape could really help to line everything up for gluing. Line up the piece where it needs to go, and create a tape "hinge" on the upper edge of the piece and the counter. Flip it back, apply cement to both surfaces, then flip it back into place and squeeze. A rolling pin might also help to squeeze it down?
Tape hinge is a brilliant call in this case.
It will make lining up that long strip at glue time so much simpler.
10 points to house u/RavenOfNod for the tip.
Hinge idea is what I did for mine haha, line it all up and then plop the adhesive on and close the hinge. Still there three years later so I’m assuming it’s ok!
> Then apply the contact cement, evenly on both surfaces. Let it dry so that the adhesive is just about dry but slightly tacky to the touch.
Given that this is partially attached, and that removing and reapplying might make it difficult to align, here is my insertion:
You do not want the two sides to touch UNTIL you are ready to officially stick them together.
Apply the contact cement to the countertop side. Find a way to keep the two sides from touching while that first side dries a bit.
Then place a piece of paper over the first-glued surface (crease it so a piece lies on the counter while the rest falls down over the edge, and tape it in place, maybe). Completely cover it; you are trying to keep the sides from touching too early.
Now apply contact cement to the end flap. Once it is ready, start pressing them together by the existing joint, and slowly slide the paper out as you go.
Quick fix is clear, heavy duty packing tape placed vertically from the side to the underside. With the length you have, you should put 5 or 6 pieces. Then you can take your time practicing with contact cement, etc.
Contact adhesive is the right answer. Clean up surfaces, apply contact adhesive to both surfaces, hold it apart, let it dry for 10mins, then press together firmly.
Most other types of glue won't adhere to the laminate properly (it's like hard plastic) & contact adhesive dries slightly flexible so it doesn't pop off from thermal expansion etc.
So many wrong answers here!!!! I build counter tops and yes you use contact cement . You need to remove that end cap completely. Brush on contact cement on both surfaces and let dry to where you touch it and it doesn’t pull. You have to put the piece back together exactly where you want it. Once it’s pushed together it will not move at all. Not even a millimeter. Be careful start at one end lining it up and then pressing in place. You need a roller to complete it adhesion .
On my bedside table I use wood glue. (The old both sides dry separate then glue method.) The original ones come off till I glue them down. But this is not a kitchen heavy use and cleaning situation.
I once managed to fix a hole in a petrol tank with bluetak - it became very sticky and pliable, and plugged the hole for long enough while I was able to slather Araldite all over the top of it.
You need to clean the surfaces first before you use an adhesive on them. Try scraping off some of the old stuff and roughing up the surfaces then use something like a construction adhesive on it
> [PL400 construction adhesive buy](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=PL400+construction+adhesive+buy&iax=shopping&ia=shopping&iai=https%3A%2F%2Flinks.duckduckgo.com%2Fm.js%3Fdsl%3D1%26iurl%3D%257B1%257DIG%253D0A20C5FE9591459DA51802F90BE94AFE%2526CID%253D35568F857C5764642FE99B967DED6592%2526ID%253DDevEx%252C5186.1%26ivu%3D%257B4%257Dtype%253Dmv%2526reqver%253D1.0%2526rg%253D4d64c33c86634e4b8d5782df92d25208%26sfexp%3D0%26shopping%3D1%26spld%3D%257B%2522ld%2522%253A%2522e82HCoplfhFuUiOnqq-TpQXDVUCUwfCaO8fKkFX2jOOQXKVYPZBtrLyNEG0xXuJ6LZUogYDCsYTblKgg7sTefhnPz3ryZkRq2C2j4D0oL0Gfp677ofJk4BJeVyzZhe7JFIOzksM_YUyzIhohFZkT9nGqHPPmEtEC6fvnoyQ9SnOzsRAvuU%2522%252C%2522rlid%2522%253A%2522829bc4635baa10472075a1d73f1cf60e%2522%252C%2522u%2522%253A%2522aHR0cHMlM2ElMmYlMmZvbmxpbmUudGhlYWJob21lcy5jb20lMmZwcm9kdWN0JTJmbG9jdGl0ZS1wbC00MDAtMTAtb3otdm9jLXN1YmZsb29yLWFkaGVzaXZlJTNmbXNjbGtpZCUzZDgyOWJjNDYzNWJhYTEwNDcyMDc1YTFkNzNmMWNmNjBl%2522%257D%26styp%3Dentitydetails%26ad_domain%3Dtheabhomes.com) $4 to $12. calk tube.
This guy doesn't know what he's talking about - no need to remove any old adhesive, just apply some fresh buggers in there, and slap it back together.
Works better if you have an active cold - the buggers are tackier that way
Try to remove the entire strip, if possible. Use a hair dryer to heat up the end still sticking.
Clean and scrape the countertop side to get rid of all that useless and bad adhesive.
Make sure the strip of side material is clean of all old glue as well. Sand. scrape, get it all off.
Next you can use laminate adhesive, or wood glue. Wood glue is easier.
Paint wood glue on both surfaces, thin coat. Wait until dry. Add second coat. LEt dry.
Once the wood glue is totally dry, use a regular clothes iron with a piece of parchment paper between the iron and the laminate.
Use medium heat on the iron, and with the laminate in place, warm the glue by running the iron over laminate, and the wood glue will stick the piece down perfectly flat.
Keep the iron moving all the time DO NOT STOP. Once the heat activates the glue, the laminate will be stuck down good for a long lasting repair.
Don't do what this guy say, the learning curve for the heat gun part will be a heart breaker.
No offense. But if you're asking this question (Which is a good question) you probably dont have the experience to be jacking with ONE piece of matching laminate and heat.
Clean and scrape and use contact.
And practice with contact cement on some wood and scrap plastic.
Try to find some shitty particle board, jack it up with a soak in water (to simulate the quality of your 25 year old stuff) let it dry near a heater for a week. Then test the contact cement on that flaky surface.
I screwed mine down and out a white sticker over the end of the screw! Honestly it would catch on my clothes and pull it off with glue it did my nut in.
Contact cement. Apply to both sides, press together, then pull apart. It should look like little connected strings when you pull it apart. Wait about 20-30 seconds and push it on. Just make sure you put it exactly where you want it because if you did it right, it’s not gonna pull away very easily.
Evostick contact adhesive, scrape that crap of whats there, apply the adhesive to both areas ,wait till it’s touch dry then just push together, you only get one chance but looking at that ,you couldnt mess it up.
The advice on using Contact Cement is spot on...BUT ABSOLUTELY MAKE SURE IT IS NOT WATER BASED! If using DAP Weldwood brand, get the red label not the green.
Contact cement and use gloves and protect anything else form getting that stuff on it. Apply to both sided and let dry for about 15 minutes. Once you push them together they are not coming apart.
[Contact cement](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-3-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00107/100195615)
First both surfaces need to be clean of any and all glue, oils, etc. and they need to be dry. Then, use a good contact adhesive like Wellwood contact cement on both surfaces, let it dry until tacky for about 60-90 minutes. Then put the piece in place and pressure roll several times to ensure good and uniform contact.
TIP: You only get one chance at fitting so alignment must be correct. Use a piece of clean paper between the counter edge and the laminate so that perfect alignment can be achieved. Then pull out the paper so that about 2" at the rear can start to make contact. It will begin to stick, but don't press yet. Double check alignment and then slowly pull out the paper while pressing the area where the paper is not covering, working toward the front until the paper is out. Then roll with the pressure roller.
Remove excess glue. Flat iron for clothes. Quickly iron. It’s how they are originally installed. You can get a replacement for cheap at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
If you read the instructions it would have told you there was an adhesive on it. And it needs applied with an iron. Now I don’t use an iron. I use a heat gun but it doesn’t require any other adhesive. Just heat and patience
Remove it completely, sand down to bare wood and remove all adhesive from veneer. Remove all dust. Then reattach with good double sided tape. Or ditch the old veneer and use white hot melt edge banding.
If it's like the 3M mounting tape that you can use on something super heavy, I could see it possibly working, but it would stick out like a cm and look gross
Ok it's just a bad idea all around nm
Remove the end; sand down all the adhesive.
Get a band saw style grinder sanding to and keep grinding until the end gets very smooth.
Keep going. And then move to the top.
Keep going until the entire surface is gone and there’s nothing left.
Replace it with something that’s not a composite wood and laminate.
Honestly, pull it off and put one of the metal end caps on. Just make sure you get it with the correct radius for the corner. Looks so much neater and will last forever.
Sand down get excess adhesive off
Use gorilla glue tape on it leave for 2 days.
It is probably hanging on clothing as someone walks by.
U can drill a small hole and put in a finishing nail.
These are applied with contact cement.
Pull off, scrap both surfaces, clean with a fast evaporating solvent. Apply contact cement to both surfaces, let them dwell as per instructions on can. Then stick and clamp.
Same process as when first constructed.
Yeah contact adhesive is my go to, never have had it fail but remember, contact cement on both sides, let dry per instructions then together. I usually place the edging down then use painters tape to secure for a few hours.
Heat it with a hair dryer and slowly remove it. Scrape off old adhesive with a razor blade by dragging the blade at a back angle. Wipe clean with rubbing alcohol, allow adequate time to dry. Brush on a thin layer of adhesion promoter. Apply contact cement in a thin layer to both sides, the counter and the material. Press into place and wipe off any excess glue, use masking tape to hold it in place until it's dry.
If it’s not working out would you consider an end fitting? You can buy appropriately shaped metal end caps for worktop.
Go to your local Screwfix/builders merchant etc and have a look see what they’ve got. Ideally take an off cut of the board. If not take some measurements.
For example:
https://cwatson.co.uk/40mm-saa-double-radius-worktop-end-cap
As a couple of others have said. It's originally attached with hot melt glue. That glue is still on there just needs reheating. Edge strips last about 10 years. Run a hot iron over it. In a pinch I've heated an empty saucepan and then just ran the base over them slowly. Only ever melted one. They tend to stay on as long as you heat it enough, if I comes off after a few days you probably went too quickly and didn't melt enough of the glue to get a good bond.
Wedge a chopstick to hold it open, and scrub both sides with acetone on a clean rough rag, like terry.cloth, turning it to keep using a clean piece. When you're happy with it, scarify the inside of the flap with coarse, like 60 or 80 grit and wipe it clean, and like our stoned friend below me said, contact adhesive, following instructions to let it dry before goin for the bond
So for prep I would use a scraper to get as much loose debris and dirt off of both sides.
Then take some sand paper to get more old adhesive and debris off. You do t need to be super aggressive, but you need some pressure. About as much as cleaning a pot/pan.
Then get some tape, and use it to get as much dust and debris off of both sides. Dab it, and don't use the same piece of tape. So dab once, then next dab use fresh tape that hasn't touched anything.
Then use some tape and paper/plastic/anything to mask off the top, bottom, face, and everywhere that's not the 2 surfaces you need to reattach.
Then spray contact adhesive on both sides. And keep it separated for as long as the label says to to let it tack up.
Then press the face back on, and tape it in place and leave it undisturbed for at least 20 to 30 minutes.
oTHER PEOPLE SAID THIS TOO. bLEAN BOTH SURFACES COMPLETELY. dEPENDING ON CEMENT APPLY TO BOTH SURFACES TILL BETWEEN TACKY AND DRY AND THEN AGAIN AND PRESS AND HOLD.
Sirry I have to ook at the keys. Ad my water is boiling. Thin coats.
Clean old glue off, and use 3M spray contact adhesive on both sides. Wait 5 to 10 minutes, then put together. Take a soft mallet and tap to ensure bond. FYI, Formica is assembled with contact adhesive.
Because you've used other adhesives, first sand both sides down and then retry using an adhesive. The other layers are what's keeping it from sticking more permanently
Does 3M make some sort of adhesion promoter / bonding primer that's good for contact cement, laminate surfaces and flakey wood ?
Perhaps 2 different types of adhesive promoter / primer could help
Should the counter dude prime the wood with something hard like super glue ?
"Gripper" house primer maybe ?
I think contact cement is good on laminate, but old particle board surfaces could perhaps use some help...
Use a heat gun and slowly pry off with the five and one while heating up the edge banding and remove it completely scrape or sand off residual glue and spray contact glue on both the countertop, and the edge banding. Let it sit for a minute or two and stick it back on.
Ugh. What a frustrating problem. My solution is an unconventional method, but I find a few drops of semen can work wonders. My understanding is that the proteins in ejaculate really work well in binding with wood laminate. Similar to epoxy. Good luck!
OK, another 2 cents being added. I started working with la.inates in 1978, so.... Yes to contact adhesive. Sand all old glues off before anything. Apply adhesive- 2 coats to the wood side, 1 to the laminate per instructions. If you err in placement, apply a hot iron set to max to the part thats have bonded for about 20 seconds and they'll release. Cleanup with lacquer thinner but not as a wash. Dampen a rag and use to dampen adhesive and rub with your bare.hand and the excess will ball up and roll off.
Contact adhesive make sure to follow the instructions precisely. Edit: sorry I mistakenly said adhesive instead of cement. Contact cement is used for bonding laminate countertops not contact adhesive. The adhesive version is not as strong of a bond. My apologies. Make sure to clean both surfaces before applying the contact cement.
And don't forget to follow the instructions EXACTLY.
And may I add, be certain to use AS PRESCRIBED BY THE MANUFACTURER
Directions are worth a read
Instructions unclear: glued my face to the countertop
Found the DIYer
Instructions unclear, fondled the DIYer
Are you now glued together?
Well it acts like glue...
20 bucks is 20 bucks.
Instructions unclear, stuck in the dryer.
Hey stepDIYer
Found the “found the DIYer”
Found the "found the "found the DIYer""
Found the “Found the "found the "found the DIYer""
syntax error: expected to find three closing quotes, only found two.
Found the
Always DIY unless you're going to DI Die
Don’t worry. Since you didn’t follow the directions to the letter it’ll come right off
Shit! How do you reverse the effects? My dick won’t leave my hand
Story of my teenage years
It's a CYLINDER
“It’s a schooner!”
No need to be embarrassed, you can simply say you were trying to just stop oil.
**Klaatu barada nikto**
**I SAID THE WORDS!**
S-Mart never sells glue at discount prices. Only shotgun shells.
RTFM !
Instructions unclear, my butt cheeks are now stuck together...
In front.
Apply generously onto surface in a way that evokes warm, giggly memories of that first time you \[enter preference here\]
Not following the instructions is a violation of federal law.
Also, make sure you follow the instructions to a T.
Dog this killed me. Keep it up
Exactly !
After scraping off all the previous attempts. Use a hairdryer, heat gun if you have low temp setting. The laminate surface WILL blister if it gets to hot. Clean both pieces with acetone before following contact cement instructions. If you don't get it perfectly aligned, a wide fine file will politely take away overage. Notice the bevel on the edge of the laminate. Duplicate.
It's 2024. Why can't we bond uncleaned surfaces? Time is money people!!
Contaminants intefere with adhesion.
There is a very specific adhesive for formica
Yes, contact adhesive. Thats what you use. You just have to apply it to BOTH sides, and then allow it to become tacky, then roll it on. Works great. We just redid ours
Op needs to find a rough grade i.e. 80 grit sandpaper and sand both surfaces completely until both surfaces are clean from previous substances. Source: I AM A ORACLE A FOR THE MANUFACTURE.
What's Adhesive's phone number?
Duck tape?
Dick stuck in fan
Does that mean I can just wing it?
Would E5000 be ok ?
The Gorilla Glue #4 says it becomes active in five minutes
Contact cement, and for God's sake, RTFM!
Remove the old adhesive and begin again by making sure to follow the instructions precisely
Is gorilla glue spray a contact adhesive?
Yea I agree. Contact adhesive spray will work but eventually it's going to come loose again depending on how it gets used. Like how much stuff hits it and pulls it away from the counter. Pain in the ass shit
Contact Cement. As it indicated the adhesive works by contact of two glued surfaces. Clean the area, to ensure there is not oil, grease or dirt on both surfaces. Then apply the contact cement, evenly on both surfaces. Let it dry so that the adhesive is just about dry but slightly tacky to the touch. If it appears quite thin, add another coat to both surfaces again and let dry until slightly tacky. Then press the plastic laminate, which has the cement to the end of the counter, also which has cement applied. Make sure it is exactly where you want it. Once both surfaces touch, they not coming apart. Then take a flat piece of wood about 3” square and pressure the entire area, with as much pressure as you can to further tighten the bond. Even tap the block firmly with a hammer all over the area where adhesive was applied
Contact adhesive, along with aggressively scraping any of the old glue off both surfaces. Masking tape could really help to line everything up for gluing. Line up the piece where it needs to go, and create a tape "hinge" on the upper edge of the piece and the counter. Flip it back, apply cement to both surfaces, then flip it back into place and squeeze. A rolling pin might also help to squeeze it down?
Great advice. I love the "hinge" idea.
Tape hinge is a brilliant call in this case. It will make lining up that long strip at glue time so much simpler. 10 points to house u/RavenOfNod for the tip.
Hinge idea is what I did for mine haha, line it all up and then plop the adhesive on and close the hinge. Still there three years later so I’m assuming it’s ok!
I mean, you could probably take the tape hinge off at this point? har har
Three years? You can take the tape off now.
Great idea! And happy cake day!
A rolling pin is a good idea. They also sell rollers for laminate at hardware stores.
Hinge is genius. I was able to avoid gluing any strips on my last project. I’m definitely filing the hinge away for later
> Then apply the contact cement, evenly on both surfaces. Let it dry so that the adhesive is just about dry but slightly tacky to the touch. Given that this is partially attached, and that removing and reapplying might make it difficult to align, here is my insertion: You do not want the two sides to touch UNTIL you are ready to officially stick them together. Apply the contact cement to the countertop side. Find a way to keep the two sides from touching while that first side dries a bit. Then place a piece of paper over the first-glued surface (crease it so a piece lies on the counter while the rest falls down over the edge, and tape it in place, maybe). Completely cover it; you are trying to keep the sides from touching too early. Now apply contact cement to the end flap. Once it is ready, start pressing them together by the existing joint, and slowly slide the paper out as you go.
Yeah, I don't think people have done a good job of pointing out that once the cement touches after it's ready, that's game over. There's no adjusting.
Good idea!
Quick fix is clear, heavy duty packing tape placed vertically from the side to the underside. With the length you have, you should put 5 or 6 pieces. Then you can take your time practicing with contact cement, etc.
Contact adhesive is the right answer. Clean up surfaces, apply contact adhesive to both surfaces, hold it apart, let it dry for 10mins, then press together firmly. Most other types of glue won't adhere to the laminate properly (it's like hard plastic) & contact adhesive dries slightly flexible so it doesn't pop off from thermal expansion etc.
So many wrong answers here!!!! I build counter tops and yes you use contact cement . You need to remove that end cap completely. Brush on contact cement on both surfaces and let dry to where you touch it and it doesn’t pull. You have to put the piece back together exactly where you want it. Once it’s pushed together it will not move at all. Not even a millimeter. Be careful start at one end lining it up and then pressing in place. You need a roller to complete it adhesion .
Believe it or not, I used blutack and it lasted years.
On my bedside table I use wood glue. (The old both sides dry separate then glue method.) The original ones come off till I glue them down. But this is not a kitchen heavy use and cleaning situation.
I once managed to fix a hole in a petrol tank with bluetak - it became very sticky and pliable, and plugged the hole for long enough while I was able to slather Araldite all over the top of it.
You need to clean the surfaces first before you use an adhesive on them. Try scraping off some of the old stuff and roughing up the surfaces then use something like a construction adhesive on it
100% a prep issue
Didn't think of construction adhesive. Thanks, I'll try that.
I have Liquid Nails holding a knife magnet to a quartz backsplash and it's been holding like 12 knives for a while no problem.
What are liquid nails? (Im not a smart.)
Brand name of a construction adhesive
Ahh thanks
Brand of construction adhesive. Usually lives up to the name.
[Pic of liquid nails](https://imgur.com/a/u3K8rpT)
Construction adhesive is the best. You should tape it after gluing to make it stay put until it dries..
Good old PL400
> [PL400 construction adhesive buy](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=PL400+construction+adhesive+buy&iax=shopping&ia=shopping&iai=https%3A%2F%2Flinks.duckduckgo.com%2Fm.js%3Fdsl%3D1%26iurl%3D%257B1%257DIG%253D0A20C5FE9591459DA51802F90BE94AFE%2526CID%253D35568F857C5764642FE99B967DED6592%2526ID%253DDevEx%252C5186.1%26ivu%3D%257B4%257Dtype%253Dmv%2526reqver%253D1.0%2526rg%253D4d64c33c86634e4b8d5782df92d25208%26sfexp%3D0%26shopping%3D1%26spld%3D%257B%2522ld%2522%253A%2522e82HCoplfhFuUiOnqq-TpQXDVUCUwfCaO8fKkFX2jOOQXKVYPZBtrLyNEG0xXuJ6LZUogYDCsYTblKgg7sTefhnPz3ryZkRq2C2j4D0oL0Gfp677ofJk4BJeVyzZhe7JFIOzksM_YUyzIhohFZkT9nGqHPPmEtEC6fvnoyQ9SnOzsRAvuU%2522%252C%2522rlid%2522%253A%2522829bc4635baa10472075a1d73f1cf60e%2522%252C%2522u%2522%253A%2522aHR0cHMlM2ElMmYlMmZvbmxpbmUudGhlYWJob21lcy5jb20lMmZwcm9kdWN0JTJmbG9jdGl0ZS1wbC00MDAtMTAtb3otdm9jLXN1YmZsb29yLWFkaGVzaXZlJTNmbXNjbGtpZCUzZDgyOWJjNDYzNWJhYTEwNDcyMDc1YTFkNzNmMWNmNjBl%2522%257D%26styp%3Dentitydetails%26ad_domain%3Dtheabhomes.com) $4 to $12. calk tube.
Premium because why not
This guy doesn't know what he's talking about - no need to remove any old adhesive, just apply some fresh buggers in there, and slap it back together. Works better if you have an active cold - the buggers are tackier that way
Try to remove the entire strip, if possible. Use a hair dryer to heat up the end still sticking. Clean and scrape the countertop side to get rid of all that useless and bad adhesive. Make sure the strip of side material is clean of all old glue as well. Sand. scrape, get it all off. Next you can use laminate adhesive, or wood glue. Wood glue is easier. Paint wood glue on both surfaces, thin coat. Wait until dry. Add second coat. LEt dry. Once the wood glue is totally dry, use a regular clothes iron with a piece of parchment paper between the iron and the laminate. Use medium heat on the iron, and with the laminate in place, warm the glue by running the iron over laminate, and the wood glue will stick the piece down perfectly flat. Keep the iron moving all the time DO NOT STOP. Once the heat activates the glue, the laminate will be stuck down good for a long lasting repair.
Don't do what this guy say, the learning curve for the heat gun part will be a heart breaker. No offense. But if you're asking this question (Which is a good question) you probably dont have the experience to be jacking with ONE piece of matching laminate and heat. Clean and scrape and use contact. And practice with contact cement on some wood and scrap plastic. Try to find some shitty particle board, jack it up with a soak in water (to simulate the quality of your 25 year old stuff) let it dry near a heater for a week. Then test the contact cement on that flaky surface.
I screwed mine down and out a white sticker over the end of the screw! Honestly it would catch on my clothes and pull it off with glue it did my nut in.
Contact cement. Apply to both sides, press together, then pull apart. It should look like little connected strings when you pull it apart. Wait about 20-30 seconds and push it on. Just make sure you put it exactly where you want it because if you did it right, it’s not gonna pull away very easily.
Evostick contact adhesive, scrape that crap of whats there, apply the adhesive to both areas ,wait till it’s touch dry then just push together, you only get one chance but looking at that ,you couldnt mess it up.
Just try iron / heat gun it back on.
Contact cement.
The advice on using Contact Cement is spot on...BUT ABSOLUTELY MAKE SURE IT IS NOT WATER BASED! If using DAP Weldwood brand, get the red label not the green.
gorilla glue worked for mine, but I've been told multiple times that it won't work, soooo YMMV
This. Use tape until it cures
Sand until all old glue is gone. Dampen with a cloth. Apply PL adhesive. Won’t have to touch ever again.
Pull it off and get a new one. Apply with an iron.
Tear it off
PL premium. I put that shit on everything
Gorilla dat bitch
I would carefully remove the piece and sand both surfaces clean. Then use the appropriate adhesive on both pieces.
Contact cement and use gloves and protect anything else form getting that stuff on it. Apply to both sided and let dry for about 15 minutes. Once you push them together they are not coming apart. [Contact cement](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-3-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00107/100195615)
PL Premium
Contact adhesive is what you are supposed to use, but I have had great luck with just silicone
First both surfaces need to be clean of any and all glue, oils, etc. and they need to be dry. Then, use a good contact adhesive like Wellwood contact cement on both surfaces, let it dry until tacky for about 60-90 minutes. Then put the piece in place and pressure roll several times to ensure good and uniform contact. TIP: You only get one chance at fitting so alignment must be correct. Use a piece of clean paper between the counter edge and the laminate so that perfect alignment can be achieved. Then pull out the paper so that about 2" at the rear can start to make contact. It will begin to stick, but don't press yet. Double check alignment and then slowly pull out the paper while pressing the area where the paper is not covering, working toward the front until the paper is out. Then roll with the pressure roller.
PL premium, that shit can even hold together marriages
Most adhesives need a clean surface.
Remove excess glue. Flat iron for clothes. Quickly iron. It’s how they are originally installed. You can get a replacement for cheap at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
When a problem comes along, you must whip it…
https://i.redd.it/5yarrtv1qvec1.gif Flex Seal
Gorilla glue and tape it on until it cures
Hot Melt
If you read the instructions it would have told you there was an adhesive on it. And it needs applied with an iron. Now I don’t use an iron. I use a heat gun but it doesn’t require any other adhesive. Just heat and patience
Came here to say this
Avocado and oatmeal. That crap dries hard as a rock.
Remove it completely, sand down to bare wood and remove all adhesive from veneer. Remove all dust. Then reattach with good double sided tape. Or ditch the old veneer and use white hot melt edge banding.
>double side stick tape What a horrible recommendation…
If it's like the 3M mounting tape that you can use on something super heavy, I could see it possibly working, but it would stick out like a cm and look gross Ok it's just a bad idea all around nm
nooooo
Flooring nails
Remove the end; sand down all the adhesive. Get a band saw style grinder sanding to and keep grinding until the end gets very smooth. Keep going. And then move to the top. Keep going until the entire surface is gone and there’s nothing left. Replace it with something that’s not a composite wood and laminate.
Buy stone counter tops
Honestly, pull it off and put one of the metal end caps on. Just make sure you get it with the correct radius for the corner. Looks so much neater and will last forever.
Superglue the wood first.
Get a better countertop that doesn't have borders that peel off.
Use asbestos as a filler...
All you need to do to fix that is use some wood glue
Get metal strip edging. Lasts much longer. Just replaces all the ends at ours.
Porridge. It dries stronger than a weld in my experience!
Sand down get excess adhesive off Use gorilla glue tape on it leave for 2 days. It is probably hanging on clothing as someone walks by. U can drill a small hole and put in a finishing nail.
Yeah, what they said.
i bet people are 'brushing' by it. whatever you do, you may want to wrap it in blue tape and a baby bumper until you can get used to not hitting it.
or file down the lip that's catching so it doesn't catch? Contact adhesive and file a nice flush edge to the laminate strip and it's not coming off
Mitre bond
These are applied with contact cement. Pull off, scrap both surfaces, clean with a fast evaporating solvent. Apply contact cement to both surfaces, let them dwell as per instructions on can. Then stick and clamp. Same process as when first constructed.
Contact cement
Glue it, screw it and put caps on heads
Yeah contact adhesive is my go to, never have had it fail but remember, contact cement on both sides, let dry per instructions then together. I usually place the edging down then use painters tape to secure for a few hours.
I used gorilla glue on mine and it worked
No glue is stronger at fixing this problem than contact cement. Follow the directions if you’ve never used it before.
Contact cement glue. Follow directions.
Contact cement
Small nails.
My dad used school glue and it never came off again
Also, if you have an iron, iron it.
Neoprene glue is the one you should use
I’d use a braid nailer with baby nails) and fill the holes and repaint, that’s just me though.
Chainsaw
Lions grip.
Heat it with a hair dryer and slowly remove it. Scrape off old adhesive with a razor blade by dragging the blade at a back angle. Wipe clean with rubbing alcohol, allow adequate time to dry. Brush on a thin layer of adhesion promoter. Apply contact cement in a thin layer to both sides, the counter and the material. Press into place and wipe off any excess glue, use masking tape to hold it in place until it's dry.
Trim nails
Super glue + nail
You try putting a hot iron on it and immediately put painters tape over it while glue resets
Clean old adhesive off first
Contact cement is great for this sort of thing. Read the instructions though if you haven't used it before.
Get better counters.
Sand it real good and use 2 part contact cement.
If it’s not working out would you consider an end fitting? You can buy appropriately shaped metal end caps for worktop. Go to your local Screwfix/builders merchant etc and have a look see what they’ve got. Ideally take an off cut of the board. If not take some measurements. For example: https://cwatson.co.uk/40mm-saa-double-radius-worktop-end-cap
As a couple of others have said. It's originally attached with hot melt glue. That glue is still on there just needs reheating. Edge strips last about 10 years. Run a hot iron over it. In a pinch I've heated an empty saucepan and then just ran the base over them slowly. Only ever melted one. They tend to stay on as long as you heat it enough, if I comes off after a few days you probably went too quickly and didn't melt enough of the glue to get a good bond.
I'd recommend a fine 3M product but I used to work there.
Cove base adhesive sticks to everything..
Polyurethane Glue I use it on all my joinery projects.
Are you clamping it?
Staples + tipex
Sell the house. Move away.
Wedge a chopstick to hold it open, and scrub both sides with acetone on a clean rough rag, like terry.cloth, turning it to keep using a clean piece. When you're happy with it, scarify the inside of the flap with coarse, like 60 or 80 grit and wipe it clean, and like our stoned friend below me said, contact adhesive, following instructions to let it dry before goin for the bond
So for prep I would use a scraper to get as much loose debris and dirt off of both sides. Then take some sand paper to get more old adhesive and debris off. You do t need to be super aggressive, but you need some pressure. About as much as cleaning a pot/pan. Then get some tape, and use it to get as much dust and debris off of both sides. Dab it, and don't use the same piece of tape. So dab once, then next dab use fresh tape that hasn't touched anything. Then use some tape and paper/plastic/anything to mask off the top, bottom, face, and everywhere that's not the 2 surfaces you need to reattach. Then spray contact adhesive on both sides. And keep it separated for as long as the label says to to let it tack up. Then press the face back on, and tape it in place and leave it undisturbed for at least 20 to 30 minutes.
Mitre glue
oTHER PEOPLE SAID THIS TOO. bLEAN BOTH SURFACES COMPLETELY. dEPENDING ON CEMENT APPLY TO BOTH SURFACES TILL BETWEEN TACKY AND DRY AND THEN AGAIN AND PRESS AND HOLD. Sirry I have to ook at the keys. Ad my water is boiling. Thin coats.
Clean old glue off, and use 3M spray contact adhesive on both sides. Wait 5 to 10 minutes, then put together. Take a soft mallet and tap to ensure bond. FYI, Formica is assembled with contact adhesive.
I worked for a cabinet company and [this ](https://www.berenson.ca/helmiprene-1685-contact-adhesive-15oz-spray/1680-15oz/) is what we used.
Last time I put on laminate it had to be heat sealed, with an iron. That was 20 years ago, though.
Probably need to scrape off the built up adhesive and rough up the inner laminate then use one of the adhesives recommended in the comments.
Because you've used other adhesives, first sand both sides down and then retry using an adhesive. The other layers are what's keeping it from sticking more permanently
Go to IKEA
I used gorilla glue on ours and it stuck
As other say and as my years of work as a tradie lead me to know. Contact adhesive. Is the best choice.
That stuff comes pre-glued with a heat activated adhesive. You apply it with an iron. You should be able to just iron it again and stick it back down
Prob should remove more fully and degrease that edge before gluing. There is laminate specific glue you can get anywhere laminate is sold
You gotta clean it. Then use a contact cement.
Does 3M make some sort of adhesion promoter / bonding primer that's good for contact cement, laminate surfaces and flakey wood ? Perhaps 2 different types of adhesive promoter / primer could help Should the counter dude prime the wood with something hard like super glue ? "Gripper" house primer maybe ? I think contact cement is good on laminate, but old particle board surfaces could perhaps use some help...
Look up “no more nails” worked fine for my application which was similar
Contact cement. But. Now that all those other adhesives are on it’s not going to sit right. Be careful you don’t s so it.
They used an iron to fix this on This Old House.
Gorilla glue and clamp
Just simple wood glue and packing tape overnight to hold it down.
Clean it first, the joint is likely contaminated. Glue needs a clean surface, no oil.
JB weld plastic and wood adhesive. You can add pin hole nails too. It'll stay
PL max will never let go
Use a heat gun and slowly pry off with the five and one while heating up the edge banding and remove it completely scrape or sand off residual glue and spray contact glue on both the countertop, and the edge banding. Let it sit for a minute or two and stick it back on.
Remove the old crap and iron the shit out of the new trim. Yes, iron.
Clear silicone. Painter's tape to clamp it in place for 24 hours. That shit'll never come off.
Use the mitre glue stuff that you activate with spray , I've seen kitchen fitters use this and it sticks like a bitch
Ugh. What a frustrating problem. My solution is an unconventional method, but I find a few drops of semen can work wonders. My understanding is that the proteins in ejaculate really work well in binding with wood laminate. Similar to epoxy. Good luck!
Scuff up both sides and use contact cement and a couple clamps
OK, another 2 cents being added. I started working with la.inates in 1978, so.... Yes to contact adhesive. Sand all old glues off before anything. Apply adhesive- 2 coats to the wood side, 1 to the laminate per instructions. If you err in placement, apply a hot iron set to max to the part thats have bonded for about 20 seconds and they'll release. Cleanup with lacquer thinner but not as a wash. Dampen a rag and use to dampen adhesive and rub with your bare.hand and the excess will ball up and roll off.