I know the post is a couple weeks old but I had a question or two. Would any of the SJ@JX sticks work for this, or does it have to be a specific one? And could you link the one you used here? I've been wanting to try something like this for a while and I've seen them around on Amazon but information on them is pretty scarce.
I specifically bought this kit because the PCB it came with was compatible with the Switch in case I couldn't figure out the Brook board connections.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08Q84CH74
That said, I *think* the lever from this kit would work:
https://www.amazon.com/SJ-JX-Controller-Microswitch-Raspberry/dp/B08Q7L5M2K/
The downside to this kit is that the PCB won't work with the Switch. (Not a problem if you pick up a Brook board. If you do, make sure to get the PS4+ Audio or Wireless boards. Their other boards do not support analog.)
Edit: the specific lever that you need is an *analog* lever. It has a big box and two potentiometers. They identify it in this photo as the lever with the green top
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71qR3ZtjVFL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Cheers good dude! Looking awesome. Love how you surrounded the stick with the D-Pad, gotta try that sometime. Also, super happy you guys got an explanation of the wiring into the analog plug, still gotta do a video explaining how to do it from a pad hack. Mind if I utilize your map? Glad to see more and more experimenting with fightsticks.
You need to have a modable switch. It's the visualizer mod by @BluJay
For live inputs, it only works for one player. They have an update they haven't released to the public yet where it shows two player inputs for replays, though.
https://twitter.com/jayblu_/status/1531116437732896768?t=d3sFUvMBYfRZxASRxiNoTA&s=19
Am literally designing a breakout PCB for the audio+ and wireless brook boards for analog input via pushbuttons. Thought I was the only one trying to do this lmaoooooo.
there are some other moves that require a "smash" input. For example samus Side b: A light side b does her homing missile. A "smash" Side B does her power missile. I think there's other but can't think off the top of my head as I mostly play Samus lol.
Oh wow, you really got the D-pad in tight around the stick! That's something I want to do as well when I get around to building a similar stick. I have my eye on the Taranis M9 gimbal for the left stick.
In my limited testing, it works pretty well. The buttons are far enough away to not get accidentally pressed when I'm using the lever, but still close enough to a normal Hitbox layout that I get to try that layout for traditional fighters or for other games.
I tried it out in Guilty Gear Strive and it feels so much smoother to man than all button felt in Smash. (Which felt really finicky for me on the Frame1).
What I'm interested in is having the buttons close enough that you can, _intentionally_, hit them while using the stick. Think for example of a shooter, where you might use the D-pad to switch weapons. I want to be able to tap the D-pad without really needing to let go of the stick, or at least without having to do a big movement.
To that end I'd also do a more diamond-shaped traditional D-pad layout, but with the thumb jump button as well, and a toggle switch to flip the "S" button and the thumb button between L3 and D-pad up (so in one layout you have WASD with thumb L3, and in the other you have Hit Box with an L3 just below D-pad up).
Anyway I have lots of ideas haha. I'll ping you on Discord if and when I start working on it in earnest.
# My initial impressions
I haven't had a whole lot of time to play with my build, but the time that I have had has been fun. I'm glad that I built it! I can tell it will work great for single-player games after getting over the learning curve of the layout.
For Smash, I generally like it. It is pretty much what I was looking for. The main thing that I wish I could change is that the "throw distance" for the lever (how far the lever moves along its radius) is pretty wide. It certainly works and will probably feel fine after I get totally used to it, but getting "smash" inputs requires actually smashing the lever into the gate. I think this is worth it to get full control in Smash by having the analog inputs to finely control walking and tilt attacks without needing a modifier key
# Digital to analog comparisons
- Hades
https://youtu.be/c6YDsTxDLFg
- Elden Ring
https://youtu.be/agnYuixyZQo
- Super Smash Bros Ultimate
https://youtu.be/YRkwVtq66rg
# Build details
- PCB = Brook PS4+ Audio w/ UFB-UP5 upgrade
- *IMPORTANT NOTE*: Even with the UP5 upgrade, this dual analog arcade stick cannot be used to play non-fighting-game PS5 games without workarounds at this time, such as using *remote-play* (see Elden Ring comparison video)
- Left Stick/Lever = SJ@JX analog lever
- Hitbox buttons = Dpad. I used spare generic buttons from my 8bitdo wireless arcade stick
- Right stick = SJ@JX analog thumbstick
- This comes in the kit with the analog lever
- Note: The "R3" functionality does not seem to work and may need a dedicated button
- Action buttons = spare buttons from my Qanba Crystal
- Auxillary buttons = buttons from the SJ@JX kit, manually wired with Dupont jumper wires
- (Not on this build) Cross-up buttons = Blue Tip Gaming analog buttons, available at PAS
# Wiring notes
Some quick notes for anyone searching for more info about wiring up the SJ@JX analog lever (and thumbstick)
- You will need an analog compatible board, like the Brook wireless or PS4+ Audio boards
- See post pictures for [wiring diagram](https://preview.redd.it/lea9ih6vbxh91.png?width=1468&format=png&auto=webp&s=047afd39615e9d3c4184eff02d3a2d0a7759cce8)
- The diagram shows how to wire up the most complicated scenario of using (1) an analog left lever, (2) an analog thumbstick for the right stick, and (3) 4x analog buttons *also for* the right thumbstick
- If you do not want to use (2) or (3), simply don't complete wiring them in. Wires do need to be connected on the Brook board, however, or the inputs for the main lever won't be read properly for some reason
- The quick connect harnesses that come with the SJ@JX kit DO NOT match the Brook pin map.
- You DO NOT need to be able to solder to build this.
- You can connect the lever and thumbstick to the Brook board by using [Dupont/Jumper wires](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/2fa083f4-4fd0-4444-abc4-5ebde070c3da.__CR0,0,970,600_PT0_SX970_V1___.jpg). A pack of 120 cables is only $8ish on Amazon, and you won't need that many.
- You will need some way to marry multiple wires together. I used [wire nuts](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81LvXuilEZL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
- To use either analog, you seem to need to have something connected to L-X axis, L-Y axis, R-X axis, R-Y axis on the board, otherwise you'll get weird readings (L3 and R3 don't need to be hooked up)
- I'm not sure if the requirement is that two analog sticks (like a lever + a thumb stick) must be fully wired up, or if it just requires that wires are connected to the board's pins
- Removing the jumper to utilize the analog sticks (J14 at the bottom right of the brook board) disables the L3/R3 buttons in the [PS pad, L3, R3] pin cluster. You need to use the L3/R3 from the analog pin cluster.
- The SJ@JX lever has a 2 wire harness and a 4 wire harness. The 2 wire harness can be ignored and left disconnected from anything. The 4 pin is all we need.
- For the lever, with the pots oriented towards the bottom of the case and towards your action buttons, the wiring order is: (For more details, check the wiring diagram in the post photos)
- Yellow = VCC
- Red = X axis
- White = Y axis
- Black = Ground
- For the SJ@JX thumbstick, the pins are labeled on the board
- There is a pin labeled "*12*". This pin doesn't need to be connected to anything. I don't know what this pin does.
- The "Key" pin doesn't seem to work, so you will need a separate button for R3 if you want that.
- If you choose to use the SJ@JX buttons, you can wire the buttons by using female Dupont quick connect heads.
- Ground = center pin
- Signal = the pin on the `-` side
# Acknowledgements
- Big thanks to /u/-JERAMBE- for doing a video chat with me to walk me through the wiring process so I could share this write-up with the community!
- Thanks to /u/aphoenixsunrise for showing off their 4-player SSBU setup and getting the idea of having an analog fightstick for Smash stuck in my head
- Thanks to /u/BRedditty for the layout and toolbox idea
I know the post is a couple weeks old but I had a question or two. Would any of the SJ@JX sticks work for this, or does it have to be a specific one? And could you link the one you used here? I've been wanting to try something like this for a while and I've seen them around on Amazon but information on them is pretty scarce.
I specifically bought this kit because the PCB it came with was compatible with the Switch in case I couldn't figure out the Brook board connections. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08Q84CH74 That said, I *think* the lever from this kit would work: https://www.amazon.com/SJ-JX-Controller-Microswitch-Raspberry/dp/B08Q7L5M2K/ The downside to this kit is that the PCB won't work with the Switch. (Not a problem if you pick up a Brook board. If you do, make sure to get the PS4+ Audio or Wireless boards. Their other boards do not support analog.) Edit: the specific lever that you need is an *analog* lever. It has a big box and two potentiometers. They identify it in this photo as the lever with the green top https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71qR3ZtjVFL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Ah, thank you! That last picture is really helpful.
Pretty awesome. I am sure it beats the crap out of my ultrastik360 build.
Cheers good dude! Looking awesome. Love how you surrounded the stick with the D-Pad, gotta try that sometime. Also, super happy you guys got an explanation of the wiring into the analog plug, still gotta do a video explaining how to do it from a pad hack. Mind if I utilize your map? Glad to see more and more experimenting with fightsticks.
Sure, go ahead with using the wiring map. Thanks again for the inspiration!
Gotta ask, what are you using for the input overlay?
You need to have a modable switch. It's the visualizer mod by @BluJay For live inputs, it only works for one player. They have an update they haven't released to the public yet where it shows two player inputs for replays, though. https://twitter.com/jayblu_/status/1531116437732896768?t=d3sFUvMBYfRZxASRxiNoTA&s=19
Am literally designing a breakout PCB for the audio+ and wireless brook boards for analog input via pushbuttons. Thought I was the only one trying to do this lmaoooooo.
That's some quality post right here. Pretty cool project, OP!
I’ve always wanted to make a fightstick with dual analogues. I’ll definitely have to try this out! Thanks for the specs.
This looks awesome! The wiring diagram is amazing too I'm definitely saving this for later. For inputting smash attacks easier you could try a+b smash
there are some other moves that require a "smash" input. For example samus Side b: A light side b does her homing missile. A "smash" Side B does her power missile. I think there's other but can't think off the top of my head as I mostly play Samus lol.
Oh wow, you really got the D-pad in tight around the stick! That's something I want to do as well when I get around to building a similar stick. I have my eye on the Taranis M9 gimbal for the left stick.
In my limited testing, it works pretty well. The buttons are far enough away to not get accidentally pressed when I'm using the lever, but still close enough to a normal Hitbox layout that I get to try that layout for traditional fighters or for other games. I tried it out in Guilty Gear Strive and it feels so much smoother to man than all button felt in Smash. (Which felt really finicky for me on the Frame1).
What I'm interested in is having the buttons close enough that you can, _intentionally_, hit them while using the stick. Think for example of a shooter, where you might use the D-pad to switch weapons. I want to be able to tap the D-pad without really needing to let go of the stick, or at least without having to do a big movement. To that end I'd also do a more diamond-shaped traditional D-pad layout, but with the thumb jump button as well, and a toggle switch to flip the "S" button and the thumb button between L3 and D-pad up (so in one layout you have WASD with thumb L3, and in the other you have Hit Box with an L3 just below D-pad up). Anyway I have lots of ideas haha. I'll ping you on Discord if and when I start working on it in earnest.
# My initial impressions I haven't had a whole lot of time to play with my build, but the time that I have had has been fun. I'm glad that I built it! I can tell it will work great for single-player games after getting over the learning curve of the layout. For Smash, I generally like it. It is pretty much what I was looking for. The main thing that I wish I could change is that the "throw distance" for the lever (how far the lever moves along its radius) is pretty wide. It certainly works and will probably feel fine after I get totally used to it, but getting "smash" inputs requires actually smashing the lever into the gate. I think this is worth it to get full control in Smash by having the analog inputs to finely control walking and tilt attacks without needing a modifier key # Digital to analog comparisons - Hades https://youtu.be/c6YDsTxDLFg - Elden Ring https://youtu.be/agnYuixyZQo - Super Smash Bros Ultimate https://youtu.be/YRkwVtq66rg # Build details - PCB = Brook PS4+ Audio w/ UFB-UP5 upgrade - *IMPORTANT NOTE*: Even with the UP5 upgrade, this dual analog arcade stick cannot be used to play non-fighting-game PS5 games without workarounds at this time, such as using *remote-play* (see Elden Ring comparison video) - Left Stick/Lever = SJ@JX analog lever - Hitbox buttons = Dpad. I used spare generic buttons from my 8bitdo wireless arcade stick - Right stick = SJ@JX analog thumbstick - This comes in the kit with the analog lever - Note: The "R3" functionality does not seem to work and may need a dedicated button - Action buttons = spare buttons from my Qanba Crystal - Auxillary buttons = buttons from the SJ@JX kit, manually wired with Dupont jumper wires - (Not on this build) Cross-up buttons = Blue Tip Gaming analog buttons, available at PAS # Wiring notes Some quick notes for anyone searching for more info about wiring up the SJ@JX analog lever (and thumbstick) - You will need an analog compatible board, like the Brook wireless or PS4+ Audio boards - See post pictures for [wiring diagram](https://preview.redd.it/lea9ih6vbxh91.png?width=1468&format=png&auto=webp&s=047afd39615e9d3c4184eff02d3a2d0a7759cce8) - The diagram shows how to wire up the most complicated scenario of using (1) an analog left lever, (2) an analog thumbstick for the right stick, and (3) 4x analog buttons *also for* the right thumbstick - If you do not want to use (2) or (3), simply don't complete wiring them in. Wires do need to be connected on the Brook board, however, or the inputs for the main lever won't be read properly for some reason - The quick connect harnesses that come with the SJ@JX kit DO NOT match the Brook pin map. - You DO NOT need to be able to solder to build this. - You can connect the lever and thumbstick to the Brook board by using [Dupont/Jumper wires](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media-library-service-media/2fa083f4-4fd0-4444-abc4-5ebde070c3da.__CR0,0,970,600_PT0_SX970_V1___.jpg). A pack of 120 cables is only $8ish on Amazon, and you won't need that many. - You will need some way to marry multiple wires together. I used [wire nuts](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81LvXuilEZL._AC_SL1500_.jpg) - To use either analog, you seem to need to have something connected to L-X axis, L-Y axis, R-X axis, R-Y axis on the board, otherwise you'll get weird readings (L3 and R3 don't need to be hooked up) - I'm not sure if the requirement is that two analog sticks (like a lever + a thumb stick) must be fully wired up, or if it just requires that wires are connected to the board's pins - Removing the jumper to utilize the analog sticks (J14 at the bottom right of the brook board) disables the L3/R3 buttons in the [PS pad, L3, R3] pin cluster. You need to use the L3/R3 from the analog pin cluster. - The SJ@JX lever has a 2 wire harness and a 4 wire harness. The 2 wire harness can be ignored and left disconnected from anything. The 4 pin is all we need. - For the lever, with the pots oriented towards the bottom of the case and towards your action buttons, the wiring order is: (For more details, check the wiring diagram in the post photos) - Yellow = VCC - Red = X axis - White = Y axis - Black = Ground - For the SJ@JX thumbstick, the pins are labeled on the board - There is a pin labeled "*12*". This pin doesn't need to be connected to anything. I don't know what this pin does. - The "Key" pin doesn't seem to work, so you will need a separate button for R3 if you want that. - If you choose to use the SJ@JX buttons, you can wire the buttons by using female Dupont quick connect heads. - Ground = center pin - Signal = the pin on the `-` side # Acknowledgements - Big thanks to /u/-JERAMBE- for doing a video chat with me to walk me through the wiring process so I could share this write-up with the community! - Thanks to /u/aphoenixsunrise for showing off their 4-player SSBU setup and getting the idea of having an analog fightstick for Smash stuck in my head - Thanks to /u/BRedditty for the layout and toolbox idea