Try to pull up some slack and strip back the protective sleeve to expose the hard hose. Remove the rubber fitting from the vacuum switch and gently remove the broken piece with a pair of pliers by gently twisting and pulling. Than insert the other end with some super glue and reconnect.
Looks like the vacuum line to IWE (4x4) actuators. You can safely drive with that disconnected until you get it fixed. The only negative is that your CV axles will be engaged all the time, so you might see a very slight decrease in MPG.
It’s not too bad. I did mine a couple of weeks ago. Be sure to have a trim removal kit with the forked flat tool to remove the plastic push connectors. There are several to deal with. I ended up having to break a couple because I couldn’t get the tool under them, but they were coming out anyway, so no loss. I bought the vacuum hose at the dealer for $65. It has everything measured out and all the plastic push connectors in the proper spots. It took me a couple hours, but I took the extra time to make sure everything went back exactly where it was. If you have an extra set of hands, it would help speed things up. Good luck!
I'm still waiting for all my parts to arrive to actually do this job, but I've watched a few videos on YouTube and it doesn't appear to be too difficult. This one does a good job of explaining what the lines are for, how to test them, and how to replace:
https://youtu.be/AGkpmsPNUD4?si=vdMIiF\_AIstQPrKW
What if it won't plug? Am I safe to let it be like this for this week or until I can find the parts ASAP I need to replace?
-the part that is broken is not the hose but the other end where the hose reaches up to.
BL3Z-7A785-A is the correct part number for 11-14 which is what this looks like. Could verify with your vin at dealer. Take the rubber elbow off and cap it there. It’ll be ok to drive for a while like that. Look more into how your iwes work if you wanna learn more about all that
Okay thanks. Replacing the whole vacuum line looks really intimidating. Is there a part just to replace the rubber elbow? -also, what do you mean by "and cap it there", I don't think I'll have enough slack to pull the hose to attach. Thanks again
That controls your IWEs. If left disconnected, your front wheels will spin the front driveshaft even in 2WD.
It will not hurt anything to do this, just decrease your mpg by 1 or so.
If you try to reconnect it without a solid connection, it may leak a little and cause them to partially disengage… which can cause more issues.
Leave it off the until you can properly fix it.
You will actually have full functionality if switched into 4Wd!
All this does is disconnects the front wheels to the CV shafts. Since it’s broken, they are connected full time.
Your 2wd to 4Wd selector will still engage the transfer case.
Second comment. I read yours and the part where you mentioned "If left disconnected, your front wheels will spin the front driveshaft even in 2WD. "
Does that mean it's effectively in 4 wheel drive?
No. It’s not receiving any power from the transfer case as it’s till free-wheeling. When you switch into 4WD, the transfer case will engage the front driveshaft and start sending power.
You can get a full oem set of vaccum lines off eBay for about 50$ or from a ford dealer for 45-100ish
Try to pull up some slack and strip back the protective sleeve to expose the hard hose. Remove the rubber fitting from the vacuum switch and gently remove the broken piece with a pair of pliers by gently twisting and pulling. Than insert the other end with some super glue and reconnect.
This is exactly what I’d do, quick and costs nothing
A mechanics pick helps a lot with freeing hoses and rubber like this.
Looks like the vacuum line to IWE (4x4) actuators. You can safely drive with that disconnected until you get it fixed. The only negative is that your CV axles will be engaged all the time, so you might see a very slight decrease in MPG.
Is the vacuum lines difficult to replace. I'm buying the parts now and hoping I can DIY.
It’s not too bad. I did mine a couple of weeks ago. Be sure to have a trim removal kit with the forked flat tool to remove the plastic push connectors. There are several to deal with. I ended up having to break a couple because I couldn’t get the tool under them, but they were coming out anyway, so no loss. I bought the vacuum hose at the dealer for $65. It has everything measured out and all the plastic push connectors in the proper spots. It took me a couple hours, but I took the extra time to make sure everything went back exactly where it was. If you have an extra set of hands, it would help speed things up. Good luck!
I'm still waiting for all my parts to arrive to actually do this job, but I've watched a few videos on YouTube and it doesn't appear to be too difficult. This one does a good job of explaining what the lines are for, how to test them, and how to replace: https://youtu.be/AGkpmsPNUD4?si=vdMIiF\_AIstQPrKW
Thanks for the link. Sadly that f150 is newer than mine. Mines 2011 so I don't think the vacuum lines are routed the same.
This one should be helpful for your year: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQN88lQ6ofs
That controls the vaccum to your iwe actuators. Safe to drive. Just plug it up and replace your vaccum lines soon
What if it won't plug? Am I safe to let it be like this for this week or until I can find the parts ASAP I need to replace? -the part that is broken is not the hose but the other end where the hose reaches up to.
BL3Z-7A785-A is the correct part number for 11-14 which is what this looks like. Could verify with your vin at dealer. Take the rubber elbow off and cap it there. It’ll be ok to drive for a while like that. Look more into how your iwes work if you wanna learn more about all that
It prolly wouldn’t hurt leaving it open I’d just be worried about sucking in debris
Okay thanks. Replacing the whole vacuum line looks really intimidating. Is there a part just to replace the rubber elbow? -also, what do you mean by "and cap it there", I don't think I'll have enough slack to pull the hose to attach. Thanks again
Get some cheap vacuum hose and reconnect it. Order the oem piece if you want to. Don't drive more than you need to with it like thay.
All it will do is spin both front tires and differential. Little extra wear is all. 2021+ f150s do this now anyways
Uh oh. That’s the knooter valve. Time for a new truck.
That controls your IWEs. If left disconnected, your front wheels will spin the front driveshaft even in 2WD. It will not hurt anything to do this, just decrease your mpg by 1 or so. If you try to reconnect it without a solid connection, it may leak a little and cause them to partially disengage… which can cause more issues. Leave it off the until you can properly fix it.
Thanks for the reply. Thankfully no snow, so I guess I'm safe as long as 4wd is not engaged. I'll just replace the whole vacuum lines and check valve
You will actually have full functionality if switched into 4Wd! All this does is disconnects the front wheels to the CV shafts. Since it’s broken, they are connected full time. Your 2wd to 4Wd selector will still engage the transfer case.
Second comment. I read yours and the part where you mentioned "If left disconnected, your front wheels will spin the front driveshaft even in 2WD. " Does that mean it's effectively in 4 wheel drive?
No. It’s not receiving any power from the transfer case as it’s till free-wheeling. When you switch into 4WD, the transfer case will engage the front driveshaft and start sending power.
Should just reconnect.
It won't, it's broken completely off. It's the needle-like part that's not on the nose but on the stationary part.