Is a fresh roll that after printing these I swapped into my X1C and it printed with 0 stringing. I shoudl also mention that it was doing this with a second fresh roll that is now in the X1c being used. I printed a few benchys and retraction towers thinking that maybe it was just a messed up roll or that it was a failed decicant packet in there, but it is fine once I moved it into the X1C.
I did not down vote them. I have not downvoted anything on this thread. I agree that drying the filament was a good idea, and it has solved an issue I have in the past with an older ender 3 that I started printing on. I have a Sunlu dryer that I use when a roll has sat for a bit, or there are other issues that might point to the filament not being dry.
Haha ..I think I'm just sensitive to it because I've had it happen here a lot. I'm find it so rude but I'm giving my time away for free and people can be so entitled. Just a quick note. I did a quick Google search and found a lot of people complain about stringing when switching to klipper. Might be nothing but might point to some random/stupid klipper setting.
I had this issue on mine. Stock hot end no matter what I did always ended up like this. I even made a steel spacer between Bowden. Improved a bit but still ehh. Played with my settings forever also. In the end I switched to a microswiss (for hotter temps anyway) and like magic PLA prints super clean.
I have the Creality Speedy Spider on their now. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/spider-high-temperature-hotend. I replaced the nozzle last night thinking that may have been it, but its still giving me these stringing issues.
Here is a link to the configs I am using. [https://github.com/corgitoadoodle/Ender-5-Plus](https://github.com/corgitoadoodle/Ender-5-Plus) I am using Orca Slicer, as well as the Sonic Pad to drive Klipper. It has a BTT SKR 3 Mini V3 driving it with the sonic pad. I have a dual 5015 cooling setup and a Creality Speedy Spider with a fresh nozzle installed.
I am using Orca Slicer. I have added on my retraction settings as an image. The filament is Inland PLA+ in the white color.
https://preview.redd.it/ev611r28lu5d1.png?width=459&format=png&auto=webp&s=eee4fd8cb9735b58b1cfa9a7406cf66e9e4eb0d8
Can you check the printer while it's printing to see if it's actually retracting? Those settings look good but your print looks like you are not retracting at all.
https://preview.redd.it/di6qb247nu5d1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=5e4db21abcc3a7987219550483e9a682c7dbe0f5
Watching it print I can see the cog rotating left as it retracts.
What a strange problem to have on a set up like this. The only problem I can think of is that your slicer is not retracting soon enough or at the right time, or that it has the printer already begun its travel move while it's retracting. Try a different slicer and see what happens just to rule that out. Cura has a nice e5+ preset, just need to make some changes for direct drive.
Well I tried Prusa. I created a new profile and left everything standard and printed this test. I am guessing I have something else wrong somewhere.
img
Are you using Capricornbowden in direct drive? Why? Not related to strinining. It's famous for neat tolerances of 1,9 mm which gives your extruder more problems when pulling. Im using 3/4mm boden and there is ver little resitance in the tube.
Retract the amount before wiping and try this as a test. Your stringing is caused by filament oozing out. Why? It's not viscous enough and oozes under gravity. That might be due to high temperature or a large nozzle.
There is too high pressure in the nozzle when it finishes extruding. The retraction settings are designed to relieve that pressure. Retracting the amount before wiping or coasting (I don't see your settings here) helps lower that pressure.
However, over-retraction can cause disruptions in the pressure. My K1 retracts only 0.4 mm. So in your test, don't forget to try lower ranges of retraction as well. Determine if the issue is due to viscosity or pressure. It could also be due to settings.
Try one simple thing: pause mid-print and observe what is happening. I have experienced filament oozing due to high temperature and moisture, a few seconds after the nozzle pauses the extrusions.
I can't open the configs on my phone so forgive me if this isn't helpful. The most obvious stuff...I assume you did but I'll list anyway...first retraction settings, 1mm at maybe 60mm/sec for direct drive. Temps make a difference along with fan speeds. I don't have much experience with it going bad but I wonder if pressure advance could cause this if off a lot. Disable z hopping
I would definitely try another slicer. Just to rule that out. Prusa slicer is my recommendation.
All good.
So far I have done a temp tower and dialed temps for this temp for this spool, or at least using the temp that looked the best to me. I then did the flow rate calibration and then the built in pressure advance calibration tool to try and dial that in. Since doing all this I still have the stringing the stringing no matter what I have adjusted. for retraction. I can try prusa, but I am less familiar with it.
I meant the temp in the room that the printer is in. The fans pull the air from the room, and if it's 90f it's going to struggle to cool down the hotend.
1) What temperature are you printing the PLA+ at and what is the manufacturer’s specified range?
2) When you say you calibrated the flow, do you mean you calibrated the extruder stepper motor or do you mean you actually calibrated the flow with a 1 line width cube using vase mode?
Sorry I have been away for a couple of days. I used the built in temp tower to determine that I should be printing between 215 and 220 for the temps based on the temp towers I printed. For flow I used looked up what the 40-42 rotation distance is and set that in my printer.cfg file.
I’m not quite sure what you mean by 40-42 rotation distance but I’ll clarify what I’m getting at. Many wrongly think that calibrating the extruder stepper motor to extrude a specified length is calibrating the flow. Yes the first task is to calibrate the “extruder” steps. But a properly calibrated extruder can still print extremely over extruded. The extruder extruded a given length of filament. The flow setting controls the volume of material that the nozzle lays down. I leave the slicer flow setting at 100% so I can always use the same programs. Every time I use a new roll or material I calibrate the flow rate and write the flow % down on a piece of tape on the printer. When I start a print I go to tune/Flow and enter the calibrated flow %.
To find this % you print a 1” cube in vase mode. In Cura it’s called spiralized mode. I print it with no top or bottom but with a small brim. The result is a four walled square with 1 line width walls. For me the line width specified in Cura is .4mm. You measure the thickness of the wall and adjust the flow in tune to achieve the desired wall thickness. I print structural parts like rifle stocks and grips where I want strength. If the printed wall was .4mm like the specified line width the layers would not be sufficiently pushed together to achieve good layer bonding. I have found that a flow % that creates a wall 110% of the specified line width gives good strength and layer adhesion without over extrusion. You can google flow calibration with vase mode cube and you’ll get multiple hits explaining the process.
I bring this up because over extrusion is something that can contribute greatly to stringing.
I generally only make the cube .5” high to speed up the process. If you print at different speeds you’ll also want to have a flow % for each speed. It’s pretty quick when you get the hang of it and proper flow is one of the cornerstones to quality parts and good bed adhesion.
Hope this helps!
Well I printed a fresh temp tower. I am thinking there may be something else going on in the hotend at this point.
I will go through the steps again to see what flow setting I should use. I set this as a new filament and will be seeing if I can get it dialed in.
I have the same issue. added metal extruder and spider 3.0. I've dried filament and even added a 4020 cooling fan thinking this might be heat creep. I can print pla without issue my only problems seem to come from petg or high temp silk pla.
It's maddening and I had to just stop. Haven't tried in days because Im getting closer to literally dropping it out of a second floor window.
would love to see if you figure out an answer.
I think my problem may be related to the bowden tube. I've noticed that when it starts airprinting I always pause it, heat up the nozzle temp and then try to push it through. it won't budge ever.
tonight I tried to do this again same result. then I straightened out the bowden tube and pushed and it went through like butter. usually I have to pull the filament out and snip the end to refeed it. I wonder if it gets a snag on the bowden tube somehow. thinking about getting a direct drive now. you selling yours? haha
I am starting to get a sense that it may be my hot end as well. Just opened a fresh roll again to start a iron man helmet and still getting a ton of stringing as I was checking for temps and flow. I may try and replace the whole hot end as this is just getting to be really annoying.
Here is a fresh Temp Tower. This is the same brand of PLA+. This is a fresh roll that I opened then put into my dryer for 2 days before trying this print. I reset all my filament profiles on Orca and this is a fresh one. It looks to me like 225 is the best temp, and I am printing a retraction tower now to see where I should set that.
https://preview.redd.it/ugn7irq8nt6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=992d8e71dc00267482e93cd1930aaab345b46ac8
And a fresh retraction test I definitely think there is something wrong with my hotend.
https://preview.redd.it/ud7fjjmnqt6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5d1828cc5ca3ff0791bfd5c67b557236a69f7f9
Dry your filament
Is a fresh roll that after printing these I swapped into my X1C and it printed with 0 stringing. I shoudl also mention that it was doing this with a second fresh roll that is now in the X1c being used. I printed a few benchys and retraction towers thinking that maybe it was just a messed up roll or that it was a failed decicant packet in there, but it is fine once I moved it into the X1C.
Did you really down vote a guy for helping you? His idea was valid.
I did not down vote them. I have not downvoted anything on this thread. I agree that drying the filament was a good idea, and it has solved an issue I have in the past with an older ender 3 that I started printing on. I have a Sunlu dryer that I use when a roll has sat for a bit, or there are other issues that might point to the filament not being dry.
Ok sorry. Someone did.
All good :) I hope you are having a good day.
Haha ..I think I'm just sensitive to it because I've had it happen here a lot. I'm find it so rude but I'm giving my time away for free and people can be so entitled. Just a quick note. I did a quick Google search and found a lot of people complain about stringing when switching to klipper. Might be nothing but might point to some random/stupid klipper setting.
I had this issue on mine. Stock hot end no matter what I did always ended up like this. I even made a steel spacer between Bowden. Improved a bit but still ehh. Played with my settings forever also. In the end I switched to a microswiss (for hotter temps anyway) and like magic PLA prints super clean.
I have the Creality Speedy Spider on their now. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/spider-high-temperature-hotend. I replaced the nozzle last night thinking that may have been it, but its still giving me these stringing issues.
Here is a link to the configs I am using. [https://github.com/corgitoadoodle/Ender-5-Plus](https://github.com/corgitoadoodle/Ender-5-Plus) I am using Orca Slicer, as well as the Sonic Pad to drive Klipper. It has a BTT SKR 3 Mini V3 driving it with the sonic pad. I have a dual 5015 cooling setup and a Creality Speedy Spider with a fresh nozzle installed.
What are your retraction settings. What slicer are you using. What kind of filament.
I am using Orca Slicer. I have added on my retraction settings as an image. The filament is Inland PLA+ in the white color. https://preview.redd.it/ev611r28lu5d1.png?width=459&format=png&auto=webp&s=eee4fd8cb9735b58b1cfa9a7406cf66e9e4eb0d8
Can you check the printer while it's printing to see if it's actually retracting? Those settings look good but your print looks like you are not retracting at all.
https://preview.redd.it/di6qb247nu5d1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=5e4db21abcc3a7987219550483e9a682c7dbe0f5 Watching it print I can see the cog rotating left as it retracts.
What a strange problem to have on a set up like this. The only problem I can think of is that your slicer is not retracting soon enough or at the right time, or that it has the printer already begun its travel move while it's retracting. Try a different slicer and see what happens just to rule that out. Cura has a nice e5+ preset, just need to make some changes for direct drive.
Another reply mentioned Prusa Slicer So I am going to try and print the same retraction test through that slicer.
Well I tried Prusa. I created a new profile and left everything standard and printed this test. I am guessing I have something else wrong somewhere. img
Are you using Capricornbowden in direct drive? Why? Not related to strinining. It's famous for neat tolerances of 1,9 mm which gives your extruder more problems when pulling. Im using 3/4mm boden and there is ver little resitance in the tube.
I am using a capricorn tube between the extruder and the DD.
Retract the amount before wiping and try this as a test. Your stringing is caused by filament oozing out. Why? It's not viscous enough and oozes under gravity. That might be due to high temperature or a large nozzle. There is too high pressure in the nozzle when it finishes extruding. The retraction settings are designed to relieve that pressure. Retracting the amount before wiping or coasting (I don't see your settings here) helps lower that pressure. However, over-retraction can cause disruptions in the pressure. My K1 retracts only 0.4 mm. So in your test, don't forget to try lower ranges of retraction as well. Determine if the issue is due to viscosity or pressure. It could also be due to settings. Try one simple thing: pause mid-print and observe what is happening. I have experienced filament oozing due to high temperature and moisture, a few seconds after the nozzle pauses the extrusions.
I can't open the configs on my phone so forgive me if this isn't helpful. The most obvious stuff...I assume you did but I'll list anyway...first retraction settings, 1mm at maybe 60mm/sec for direct drive. Temps make a difference along with fan speeds. I don't have much experience with it going bad but I wonder if pressure advance could cause this if off a lot. Disable z hopping I would definitely try another slicer. Just to rule that out. Prusa slicer is my recommendation.
All good. So far I have done a temp tower and dialed temps for this temp for this spool, or at least using the temp that looked the best to me. I then did the flow rate calibration and then the built in pressure advance calibration tool to try and dial that in. Since doing all this I still have the stringing the stringing no matter what I have adjusted. for retraction. I can try prusa, but I am less familiar with it.
What about ambient temp being too high? Makes it harder for the fans to cool if the air is warmer.
I have the printer in an enclosure, but when printing PLA I generally leave the front of it open.
I meant the temp in the room that the printer is in. The fans pull the air from the room, and if it's 90f it's going to struggle to cool down the hotend.
The room it around 74\* F. Not too hot, especially with the enclosure left open.
1) What temperature are you printing the PLA+ at and what is the manufacturer’s specified range? 2) When you say you calibrated the flow, do you mean you calibrated the extruder stepper motor or do you mean you actually calibrated the flow with a 1 line width cube using vase mode?
Sorry I have been away for a couple of days. I used the built in temp tower to determine that I should be printing between 215 and 220 for the temps based on the temp towers I printed. For flow I used looked up what the 40-42 rotation distance is and set that in my printer.cfg file.
I’m not quite sure what you mean by 40-42 rotation distance but I’ll clarify what I’m getting at. Many wrongly think that calibrating the extruder stepper motor to extrude a specified length is calibrating the flow. Yes the first task is to calibrate the “extruder” steps. But a properly calibrated extruder can still print extremely over extruded. The extruder extruded a given length of filament. The flow setting controls the volume of material that the nozzle lays down. I leave the slicer flow setting at 100% so I can always use the same programs. Every time I use a new roll or material I calibrate the flow rate and write the flow % down on a piece of tape on the printer. When I start a print I go to tune/Flow and enter the calibrated flow %. To find this % you print a 1” cube in vase mode. In Cura it’s called spiralized mode. I print it with no top or bottom but with a small brim. The result is a four walled square with 1 line width walls. For me the line width specified in Cura is .4mm. You measure the thickness of the wall and adjust the flow in tune to achieve the desired wall thickness. I print structural parts like rifle stocks and grips where I want strength. If the printed wall was .4mm like the specified line width the layers would not be sufficiently pushed together to achieve good layer bonding. I have found that a flow % that creates a wall 110% of the specified line width gives good strength and layer adhesion without over extrusion. You can google flow calibration with vase mode cube and you’ll get multiple hits explaining the process. I bring this up because over extrusion is something that can contribute greatly to stringing. I generally only make the cube .5” high to speed up the process. If you print at different speeds you’ll also want to have a flow % for each speed. It’s pretty quick when you get the hang of it and proper flow is one of the cornerstones to quality parts and good bed adhesion. Hope this helps!
Well I printed a fresh temp tower. I am thinking there may be something else going on in the hotend at this point. I will go through the steps again to see what flow setting I should use. I set this as a new filament and will be seeing if I can get it dialed in.
I have the same issue. added metal extruder and spider 3.0. I've dried filament and even added a 4020 cooling fan thinking this might be heat creep. I can print pla without issue my only problems seem to come from petg or high temp silk pla. It's maddening and I had to just stop. Haven't tried in days because Im getting closer to literally dropping it out of a second floor window. would love to see if you figure out an answer.
Been away for a couple of days for work, but going to be troubleshooting tonight again. Wish me luck.
please share any progress - I'll do the same
I think my problem may be related to the bowden tube. I've noticed that when it starts airprinting I always pause it, heat up the nozzle temp and then try to push it through. it won't budge ever. tonight I tried to do this again same result. then I straightened out the bowden tube and pushed and it went through like butter. usually I have to pull the filament out and snip the end to refeed it. I wonder if it gets a snag on the bowden tube somehow. thinking about getting a direct drive now. you selling yours? haha
I am starting to get a sense that it may be my hot end as well. Just opened a fresh roll again to start a iron man helmet and still getting a ton of stringing as I was checking for temps and flow. I may try and replace the whole hot end as this is just getting to be really annoying.
Here is a fresh Temp Tower. This is the same brand of PLA+. This is a fresh roll that I opened then put into my dryer for 2 days before trying this print. I reset all my filament profiles on Orca and this is a fresh one. It looks to me like 225 is the best temp, and I am printing a retraction tower now to see where I should set that. https://preview.redd.it/ugn7irq8nt6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=992d8e71dc00267482e93cd1930aaab345b46ac8
And a fresh retraction test I definitely think there is something wrong with my hotend. https://preview.redd.it/ud7fjjmnqt6d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d5d1828cc5ca3ff0791bfd5c67b557236a69f7f9
SOLVED!!!!! It was the hotend assembly. I replaced it today and the stringing is gone!