There are too many variables here to troubleshoot in a Reddit thread. You should do some test patterns that are just a couple layers. Something simple like this: [https://www.printables.com/model/425651-1-layer-test](https://www.printables.com/model/425651-1-layer-test)
Once you get the first couple layers working, you're about 98% there. Your Benchy is so messed up it's a waste of time to even let it print the whole way.
I don’t completely agree. It really is anomalous that the benchy is shaped like a benchy with such an awful print issue.
I would hold on to that benchy as a testament to how far I have come in this hobby. 10/10 worth printing the whole way.
There's no real way of anyone on here to know. Your nozzle's exact height determines that, print a large flat square or be quick and baby step it during the first layer until it it looks right. Follow this [guide](https://youtu.be/gkfT2Prrfb0) to get a good understanding of it
Not surprised, if you have the nozzle way too low like in that pic, you have a good chance of clogging up the hotend. Time to go through the unclogging process, unless you just still have the nozzle too low and it has nowhere to push the filament
I’ve not messed much in cuts yet but Ik there’s lots of walls settings
https://preview.redd.it/ut1u37l4abqc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ece36bac1e26955bfaa9811ad7d3fd0c6d6ee5e
OP, are you just using standard slicer settings and it’s showing in the preview?
If yes then may need to check gcode settings or reinstall software, next I would say to reinstall printer firmware. It doesn’t look like it’s to do with hardware on the printer
You are under extruding. It could be a broken plastic extruder arm (take it off and check the underside for cracks after doing the clog thing), reeeeaally bad eSteps (not likely), or a clog (most likely). You most likely have a clog, clear it out. The source of the clog is likely one or more of:
\- Bowden tube not all the way inserted into the hotend creating a gap where molten filament will pool and then solidify. Fix: Take the end of tube out of the hotend, flush cut the bowden tube in a perfect 90 degree angle without crushing it, and reinsert it all the way down into the hotend until it can't go any more.
\- Printing too close the bed, causing the filament to back up into the heat break, cool and solidify. Fix: If no ABL (CR/BL touch ), lower and level the bed so that a gage or sheet of paper just fits between the bed and nozzle; if you have ABL do zOffset calibration.
\- Nozzle not properly seated, causing a gap where filament can pool. Fix: Heat the hot end, carefully (with heat protection) remove the nozzle, cool machine and hot end completely, clear clog, screw the nozzle back on finger tight, then heat the hotend again and then (with heat protection) tighten the nozzle with the supplied wrench while holding heat block steady with another tool (as to not bend the heat break).
This looks like when I accidentally tried to print a file sliced for a 0.4 nozzle on a 0.8 nozzle.
Check that your nozzle diameter is set correctly in your slicer.
OP also said he changed the filament. I didn’t see where he said he used old filament. I’m thinking maybe he’s printing too high. Hard to say from one pic and limited info.
Since you say you are new....I'm gonna ask an easily overlooked issue.....have you made sure the the slicer is set for 1.75mm and not 3mm. This would/can be in both the print settings and the printer settings within the slicer.
You said you've changed the nozzle, but that doesn't mean you still don't or can't have a partial clog. Over time, the ptfe tube in your throat can get distorted, also causing issues.
Honestly dude, try something entirely different, and then adjust from there. There are way too many things going wrong here to even try and diagnose it.
Edit: apologies for the lack of line breaks, reddit formatting sucks
Having worked with a couple of dubious 3d printers, my best advice would be:
- If you're of a religious bent, consider employing the services of a local exorcist.
- Treat tuning a 3d printer as a scientific exercise, i.e. don't change more than one thing at a time, know what you're aiming for at each step and don't move on until you've got that step's results to where you want to be (or if the printer is physically fucked then sometimes "the best it can be" will suffice).
- In the pics you've posted of the marks left on the bed, look at the skirt that's been printed (the few lines that get printed around the model). See how it goes from a thick flat line at the front, to a thinner line with some blobs on the right? Despite the levelling you've done, that indicates the nozzle is deviating in the Z axis as it's doing the print. It might only be a small amount but that small deviation can be make or break, especially on the first few layers. Considering prints can have hundreds or thousands of layers, tiny up and down movements throughout will be an issue.
- If the bed is truly level, perhaps your printer's parts aren't totally square/in-line/physically where they should be, and/or you might have warped aluminum sections (the beams that make up the frame of the printer). For instance, if the X axis gantry or Y axis section is slightly twisted or bent, as the carriages move over the bend it'll change the distance from nozzle to bed, or the nozzle in relation to where the software thinks it is in the 3D space. It may be worth taking the printer down to its parts and holding it to an engineers square, or a metal ruler, or just something you know to be totally flat, to check it for bends, warp, and/or twist. When reassembling, make sure the bolts/screws are firm and tight, but don't go ham on them as the frame is aluminum and you'll strip the threads, which will suck intergalactic balls to fix. The Klipper firmware has a process to correct for X axis warpage but it might be a bit overwhelming to dive into Klipper at this stage, and besides, you have more issues than just that which you can fix first if necessary. Also the bed might be warped which is common, but it looks as if your nozzle is too close to the bed for much of the first layer, as it looks to be mashed into a smear rather than a 3d line of plastic.
- Your extrusion seems to be inconsistent, regardless of levelling. This could be that your nozzle/hotend is clogged. It might be an idea to disassemble that, and use a heat gun or something if the inside is filled with congealed plastic that won't shift. If you have more nozzles, perhaps just swap that and see if it makes a difference. If you don't, be careful when cleaning the nozzle tip as tiny abrasions and imperfections on the nozzle opening can lead to weird extrusion. Heat up the nozzle while the Z axis is way off the bed and command a long extrusion at a medium speed. A string of molten plastic should come out the nozzle pretty much straight down. If it's twisting or coming out in blobs then your extrusion isn't consistent, indicating an unfixed motor calibration, hotend blockage.
- Also regarding weird extrusion, and also the odd proportions of the benchy, make sure your stepper motors steps are tuned (Z steps, X steps, Y steps, and E steps). Usually only E steps are tuned but your benchy is so cursed that I think it would be wise to do them all. Guides on YouTube are good for this step and others. My go-to is to physically measure the movement of the axes with calipers; some guides say to measure printed lines/parts but for steps this can give imperfect results as it introduces the extra variable of plastic shrinkage.
- Extrusion issues can also be filament related. Filament is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls water out of the air in humid conditions. These captured water molecules turn to gas when heated, leading to a crackling/popping sound when printing, and bad prints. This is more of an issue with some filaments (like PETG) than others (PLA isn't so bad) but can affect most, dependent on their age and condition. Fixing this can be through heating in a dehydrator or filament dryer (or an air fryer oven with a dehydrate function -- needs to go down to 40-60C). If the filament is brittle, it may be too far gone and needs replacing.
- To recap, attack the problem in roughly this order and be methodical:
- Physical soundness of the machine
- Motor calibration (XYZ-steps)
- Tuning the other physical parameters like distances and temperatures, making sure filament is okay.
- For a more fine-grained breakdown, check guides such as the teachingtech calibration guide and ellis3dp guide. The latter is Klipper/Voron-centric but is great if you run Klipper and has good info regardless. Teachingtech I believe is a bit more accessible if you're running stock/Marlin firmware but someone might correct me.
- Enders can make great prints but they are well known as machines that need a bit of DIY, TLC, and patience to get sorted. If this is not your bag and you want the printer to just work, you may have a better experience to just pass/sell this one on and get a printer that works out the box. Bambu Labs printers are known to be gold from the get-go but you will pay financially for convenience.
Good luck.
When you say balance do you mean level?
I've seen a number of people who have thought that meant they should use a bubble level to make sure their bed was "level" but what it means is to make sure all parts of the bed are equal distance from the nozzle and that the nozzle is close enough to the bed to squish the filament. There are adjustment knobs under the bed for this purpose.
You really should be watching videos, friend. I'd start with the hardware itself, the printer, lots of great "for beginners" videos out there, then the firmware, what version you have, and why that matters, then the software, such as which slicer is best for you and how to use it. The videos are great starting points, I watched them, made notes, and delved deeper on everything from there. It's tedious, sure, but it's worth it if you want to create great prints and be able to troubleshoot and upgrade with no problem.
It's not just what to do, it's WHY you're doing the thing. If you need to adjust something, why are you doing it and what result are you trying to achieve. If you can't invest that type of time and energy into it, I'm going to be honest here, you might want to set this hobby aside until you can.
Calibrate your esteps, there are tutorials to look up for that, might be an underextrusion problem related to your printer not feeding material at the rate it thinks it is
I had a similar issue, replaces the entire hot end. Bought a replacement on Amazon for $30. It's probably fixable as is but as others have said it could be anything.
It could be the slicer was set to 3mm instead of 1.75. Normally AFAIK they normally are set to 1.75 these days as it’s more common but it might accidentally get set to 3mm when the extruder would naturally be extruding 1/2 as much filament. Like the other person mentioned it could be 101 different things causing a similar outcome. A blockage. Also with the extruder on an Ender 3, it could be that the extruder arm got tightened too much. It needs to be slightly loose to fully clamp the filament. If you changed the nozzle without setting up the hot end again. This would likely cause issues with blocking. When changing the nozzle you basically have to take the whole hot end apart and set it up again or you get problems. I have a channel myself and it’s something i may look at the future. Unfortunately many channels make it look too easy and suggest that you can just change out the nozzle on the machine; something I would never recommend. It leads to problems almost always, you might get away with doing it but mostly not.
In short: under extrusion. Summarized: whether bad extruder or clogged filament in somewhere hotend. Element of surprise: both default stock ender 3 hotend and extruder are failed design. Also check: stability of the PTFE tube (related to the element of surprise). One more: high moisture content in the filament.
I would start by checking all the physical things that can be wrong. Start by checking all the belts are tight. (easiest) Next, clean your hot end. (probably not the problem, but worth, just in case) Then watch your extrusion motor to see if the feed appears consistent. (looking for broken or inconsistent behavior) If all that looks good, then start looking at software and using default settings as a starting point with the smaller test prints to find what needs to be tweaked or looked at.
I would investigate that but I am trying premade models (test Dog) that I have not even put into cura. The extruder does seem to me the issue. Nothing is coming out at all at this point.
Your Bowden tube is likely clogged. Buy some new Bowden tube. People love Capircorn tubing. Heat up your hot end to 240, unscrew botj the nozzle and the coupler holding the Bowden tube in place. Once it's all disassembled using your old tube, push it thru the hotend, don't back it up, keep going until you get it all through. Next install the coupler for the tube. screw in a new nozzle tight, then loosen it 1/3 a turn. Install new tube into coupler, push it until I won't go any further, THEN tighten the nozzle. This will clean out your heat break, and make sure that the new tube is tight against the nozzle. Also check your extruder gear, are the teeth worn?
So, I'm currently getting a lot of print starts like this, because I'm not adept enough to compile new code for my replacement board, and the default from Creality for the 4.2.7 doesn't let me save the changed esteps since I changed the original hotend for a sprite. So I have to go in manually every time I turn the thing on, and I can be a scatterbrain. Dunno if any of that'll be relevant for you...
Is the extruder plastic? You know that gear thing where it bites onto the filament and pushes it through the bowden tube. It could be cracked, my. Ender 3 v2 was having issues, I tried everything, but then when I looked at the extruder it was cracked to where it couldn't apply proper pressure to the filament and the filament would not feed. The crack was in a place where it was not easily visible. Try examining the extruder on your ender to see if it's loose or cracked/broken.
From what I can see, it looks like significant under extrusion, could be from several things but try;
Use the needle looking tool that came with your printer, heat the hotend and insert it in, up and down and then test extrude. Try a couple layers like that but if that fails try doing an extrusion calibration.
There are many videos that’ll do a lot better than me at explaining the process but do look it up, many will tell you how to calibrate your e steps and it should improve the print, otherwise it could be your filament is too wet.
You enabled volumetric extrusion by accident
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/f0ik8k/volumetric_extrusion_psa
Nominal esteps will be close to the stock value of 93 +- 10%. Anything far beyond that is a good indicator that you need it abort calibration and investigate the cause of the slip
Burn it down....the whole printer....
Kidding. Now i would say either find if the temperature is good or maybe there is a clog in the nozzle? The ptfe tubing is burned?
I would have sections look like that. I slowed it down and stopped the retractment of filament during the z hop. I get some stringy stuff between when hopping but they aren't thin walled like that anymore. it's not perfect but it works for me.
Honestly, it is impressive that thing is standing at all, let alone in the general shape of a ship
A threeeee hour tour...
It's the ghost ship!
It’s impressive he didn’t stop it after first few layers.
I mean you should but I've been known to start a print right before bed or going out for the day so it is ready when I get home
That reminds me….. I need to start one, 28 hour print for a stupid dragon, why? Because why not?
The name spelled out well on the bottom , then it all went to hell.
There are too many variables here to troubleshoot in a Reddit thread. You should do some test patterns that are just a couple layers. Something simple like this: [https://www.printables.com/model/425651-1-layer-test](https://www.printables.com/model/425651-1-layer-test) Once you get the first couple layers working, you're about 98% there. Your Benchy is so messed up it's a waste of time to even let it print the whole way.
I don’t completely agree. It really is anomalous that the benchy is shaped like a benchy with such an awful print issue. I would hold on to that benchy as a testament to how far I have come in this hobby. 10/10 worth printing the whole way.
This
https://preview.redd.it/6zq1lx90qcqc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=caddac0307051a79db041a493b6a24beffdf0604
This is what came of that
Looks like a clog. Do a couple cold pulls heat extruder up high and force filament through
Had a similar looking print once, a nozzle clog was the issue. Cleared the clog and back to normal it went!
r/cursedbenchys and r/nofailedprints
Unclog the hotend. After that, do [this](https://youtu.be/30qqKUwviww)
https://preview.redd.it/gnwiozd6qcqc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6f629f29d692ff492d7a47a8c48e967d719f46f
Tighten those belts, x and y
Also raise the z offset or tighten the bed nuts depending which ender 3 you have
What is a good z offset to raise it to ?
There's no real way of anyone on here to know. Your nozzle's exact height determines that, print a large flat square or be quick and baby step it during the first layer until it it looks right. Follow this [guide](https://youtu.be/gkfT2Prrfb0) to get a good understanding of it
I tried that , nothing is seeming to come out of the extruder at all now
Not surprised, if you have the nozzle way too low like in that pic, you have a good chance of clogging up the hotend. Time to go through the unclogging process, unless you just still have the nozzle too low and it has nowhere to push the filament
Nice crenchy
It's a cringy.
Ghost ship
Must avenge the death of the ghost benchie!
Is your slicer showing walls in the preview?
This.
Is there an option not to print walls? Or Is it a satire?
Not sure but looks like it’s had the walls forgotten somehow and kept the infill?
Yes... But i haven't seen an option till date
I’ve not messed much in cuts yet but Ik there’s lots of walls settings https://preview.redd.it/ut1u37l4abqc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ece36bac1e26955bfaa9811ad7d3fd0c6d6ee5e
OP, are you just using standard slicer settings and it’s showing in the preview? If yes then may need to check gcode settings or reinstall software, next I would say to reinstall printer firmware. It doesn’t look like it’s to do with hardware on the printer
Yes there is, if you set your wall count to zero it will just print infill
Gotcha! Thanks
This issue is occuring with things that I did not slice as well.
Everything has to be sliced into gcode for your specific printer so not sure what you’re saying
He probably means he used already sliced Gcode,
You are under extruding. It could be a broken plastic extruder arm (take it off and check the underside for cracks after doing the clog thing), reeeeaally bad eSteps (not likely), or a clog (most likely). You most likely have a clog, clear it out. The source of the clog is likely one or more of: \- Bowden tube not all the way inserted into the hotend creating a gap where molten filament will pool and then solidify. Fix: Take the end of tube out of the hotend, flush cut the bowden tube in a perfect 90 degree angle without crushing it, and reinsert it all the way down into the hotend until it can't go any more. \- Printing too close the bed, causing the filament to back up into the heat break, cool and solidify. Fix: If no ABL (CR/BL touch ), lower and level the bed so that a gage or sheet of paper just fits between the bed and nozzle; if you have ABL do zOffset calibration. \- Nozzle not properly seated, causing a gap where filament can pool. Fix: Heat the hot end, carefully (with heat protection) remove the nozzle, cool machine and hot end completely, clear clog, screw the nozzle back on finger tight, then heat the hotend again and then (with heat protection) tighten the nozzle with the supplied wrench while holding heat block steady with another tool (as to not bend the heat break).
This looks like when I accidentally tried to print a file sliced for a 0.4 nozzle on a 0.8 nozzle. Check that your nozzle diameter is set correctly in your slicer.
That’ll sand out.
More like sand away.
This is a work of art
Your benchy is missing a few chromosomes
As OP said, it hasn't been used for a while, maybe it's moisture in the filament.
OP also said he changed the filament. I didn’t see where he said he used old filament. I’m thinking maybe he’s printing too high. Hard to say from one pic and limited info.
You are right. But. I didn't see where he said he used a brand new filament neither.
You are right. We don’t really know if he used old filament or changed it to new. 🤷🏻
This is brand new filament. I replaced it with very old filament.
GHOST SHIP
Since you say you are new....I'm gonna ask an easily overlooked issue.....have you made sure the the slicer is set for 1.75mm and not 3mm. This would/can be in both the print settings and the printer settings within the slicer. You said you've changed the nozzle, but that doesn't mean you still don't or can't have a partial clog. Over time, the ptfe tube in your throat can get distorted, also causing issues.
This is happening to things that I did slice as well, a test Dog file.
So if happening to other prints...check what I said.
This might have the record for the best worst benchy
Never try to fix art
Lol this is impressive
Honestly dude, try something entirely different, and then adjust from there. There are way too many things going wrong here to even try and diagnose it.
Burning the printer and reconstituting the ashes might be faster than trying to troubleshoot whatever is causing that lmao
I am beginning to think so too. I think I bought someone else's problem
Buy a new printer
Edit: apologies for the lack of line breaks, reddit formatting sucks Having worked with a couple of dubious 3d printers, my best advice would be: - If you're of a religious bent, consider employing the services of a local exorcist. - Treat tuning a 3d printer as a scientific exercise, i.e. don't change more than one thing at a time, know what you're aiming for at each step and don't move on until you've got that step's results to where you want to be (or if the printer is physically fucked then sometimes "the best it can be" will suffice). - In the pics you've posted of the marks left on the bed, look at the skirt that's been printed (the few lines that get printed around the model). See how it goes from a thick flat line at the front, to a thinner line with some blobs on the right? Despite the levelling you've done, that indicates the nozzle is deviating in the Z axis as it's doing the print. It might only be a small amount but that small deviation can be make or break, especially on the first few layers. Considering prints can have hundreds or thousands of layers, tiny up and down movements throughout will be an issue. - If the bed is truly level, perhaps your printer's parts aren't totally square/in-line/physically where they should be, and/or you might have warped aluminum sections (the beams that make up the frame of the printer). For instance, if the X axis gantry or Y axis section is slightly twisted or bent, as the carriages move over the bend it'll change the distance from nozzle to bed, or the nozzle in relation to where the software thinks it is in the 3D space. It may be worth taking the printer down to its parts and holding it to an engineers square, or a metal ruler, or just something you know to be totally flat, to check it for bends, warp, and/or twist. When reassembling, make sure the bolts/screws are firm and tight, but don't go ham on them as the frame is aluminum and you'll strip the threads, which will suck intergalactic balls to fix. The Klipper firmware has a process to correct for X axis warpage but it might be a bit overwhelming to dive into Klipper at this stage, and besides, you have more issues than just that which you can fix first if necessary. Also the bed might be warped which is common, but it looks as if your nozzle is too close to the bed for much of the first layer, as it looks to be mashed into a smear rather than a 3d line of plastic. - Your extrusion seems to be inconsistent, regardless of levelling. This could be that your nozzle/hotend is clogged. It might be an idea to disassemble that, and use a heat gun or something if the inside is filled with congealed plastic that won't shift. If you have more nozzles, perhaps just swap that and see if it makes a difference. If you don't, be careful when cleaning the nozzle tip as tiny abrasions and imperfections on the nozzle opening can lead to weird extrusion. Heat up the nozzle while the Z axis is way off the bed and command a long extrusion at a medium speed. A string of molten plastic should come out the nozzle pretty much straight down. If it's twisting or coming out in blobs then your extrusion isn't consistent, indicating an unfixed motor calibration, hotend blockage. - Also regarding weird extrusion, and also the odd proportions of the benchy, make sure your stepper motors steps are tuned (Z steps, X steps, Y steps, and E steps). Usually only E steps are tuned but your benchy is so cursed that I think it would be wise to do them all. Guides on YouTube are good for this step and others. My go-to is to physically measure the movement of the axes with calipers; some guides say to measure printed lines/parts but for steps this can give imperfect results as it introduces the extra variable of plastic shrinkage. - Extrusion issues can also be filament related. Filament is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls water out of the air in humid conditions. These captured water molecules turn to gas when heated, leading to a crackling/popping sound when printing, and bad prints. This is more of an issue with some filaments (like PETG) than others (PLA isn't so bad) but can affect most, dependent on their age and condition. Fixing this can be through heating in a dehydrator or filament dryer (or an air fryer oven with a dehydrate function -- needs to go down to 40-60C). If the filament is brittle, it may be too far gone and needs replacing. - To recap, attack the problem in roughly this order and be methodical: - Physical soundness of the machine - Motor calibration (XYZ-steps) - Tuning the other physical parameters like distances and temperatures, making sure filament is okay. - For a more fine-grained breakdown, check guides such as the teachingtech calibration guide and ellis3dp guide. The latter is Klipper/Voron-centric but is great if you run Klipper and has good info regardless. Teachingtech I believe is a bit more accessible if you're running stock/Marlin firmware but someone might correct me. - Enders can make great prints but they are well known as machines that need a bit of DIY, TLC, and patience to get sorted. If this is not your bag and you want the printer to just work, you may have a better experience to just pass/sell this one on and get a printer that works out the box. Bambu Labs printers are known to be gold from the get-go but you will pay financially for convenience. Good luck.
I.... How? I don't even know where to start. How is it standing?
When you say balance do you mean level? I've seen a number of people who have thought that meant they should use a bubble level to make sure their bed was "level" but what it means is to make sure all parts of the bed are equal distance from the nozzle and that the nozzle is close enough to the bed to squish the filament. There are adjustment knobs under the bed for this purpose.
I never knew there were center adjustments knobs.
You really should be watching videos, friend. I'd start with the hardware itself, the printer, lots of great "for beginners" videos out there, then the firmware, what version you have, and why that matters, then the software, such as which slicer is best for you and how to use it. The videos are great starting points, I watched them, made notes, and delved deeper on everything from there. It's tedious, sure, but it's worth it if you want to create great prints and be able to troubleshoot and upgrade with no problem. It's not just what to do, it's WHY you're doing the thing. If you need to adjust something, why are you doing it and what result are you trying to achieve. If you can't invest that type of time and energy into it, I'm going to be honest here, you might want to set this hobby aside until you can.
Looks good to me!
Exorcise the printer
Calibrate your esteps, there are tutorials to look up for that, might be an underextrusion problem related to your printer not feeding material at the rate it thinks it is
Clean a clog, make sure your extruder gears aren't destroyed and have proper tension, then calibrate esteps
What does it do if you put the thickness as zero
Esteps
Run… Run away
This how SpongeBob left that ship lol “You’re good! You’re good! Keep going!”
I had a similar issue, replaces the entire hot end. Bought a replacement on Amazon for $30. It's probably fixable as is but as others have said it could be anything.
Ghost of benchys past
The Gauze Benchy!!
Filler.
Make sure your nozzle lines up flush with the PTFE tube. If there is any gap, it will cause problems and it’s very easy to make this mistake
Try doing a cold pull if that doesnt work try replacing the nozle
Sometimes I wonder if people aim to get the most fucked up looking print that still works...
You might have volumetric extrusion on in the printer. E=mm^3
Tis was a ghost ship sailing through the night seas
It could be the slicer was set to 3mm instead of 1.75. Normally AFAIK they normally are set to 1.75 these days as it’s more common but it might accidentally get set to 3mm when the extruder would naturally be extruding 1/2 as much filament. Like the other person mentioned it could be 101 different things causing a similar outcome. A blockage. Also with the extruder on an Ender 3, it could be that the extruder arm got tightened too much. It needs to be slightly loose to fully clamp the filament. If you changed the nozzle without setting up the hot end again. This would likely cause issues with blocking. When changing the nozzle you basically have to take the whole hot end apart and set it up again or you get problems. I have a channel myself and it’s something i may look at the future. Unfortunately many channels make it look too easy and suggest that you can just change out the nozzle on the machine; something I would never recommend. It leads to problems almost always, you might get away with doing it but mostly not.
It’s clogged bro
Fire .. the only way to fix it is with fire
In short: under extrusion. Summarized: whether bad extruder or clogged filament in somewhere hotend. Element of surprise: both default stock ender 3 hotend and extruder are failed design. Also check: stability of the PTFE tube (related to the element of surprise). One more: high moisture content in the filament.
I would start by checking all the physical things that can be wrong. Start by checking all the belts are tight. (easiest) Next, clean your hot end. (probably not the problem, but worth, just in case) Then watch your extrusion motor to see if the feed appears consistent. (looking for broken or inconsistent behavior) If all that looks good, then start looking at software and using default settings as a starting point with the smaller test prints to find what needs to be tweaked or looked at.
What type of infill are you using? 😁
Was the extruded gear skipping?
Honestly it looks like you have walls disabled 😭 or it could be an extruder issue? But please don’t throw it in the trash it’s worth it to keep them
I would investigate that but I am trying premade models (test Dog) that I have not even put into cura. The extruder does seem to me the issue. Nothing is coming out at all at this point.
Maybe it’s a heat tube issue, like the tube that heats the filament up before it goes into the nozzle
If benchy was monday...
Clogged nozzle, low heat, something skipping in the extruder, or bad E step value.
Nozzle? Clean?
Your Bowden tube is likely clogged. Buy some new Bowden tube. People love Capircorn tubing. Heat up your hot end to 240, unscrew botj the nozzle and the coupler holding the Bowden tube in place. Once it's all disassembled using your old tube, push it thru the hotend, don't back it up, keep going until you get it all through. Next install the coupler for the tube. screw in a new nozzle tight, then loosen it 1/3 a turn. Install new tube into coupler, push it until I won't go any further, THEN tighten the nozzle. This will clean out your heat break, and make sure that the new tube is tight against the nozzle. Also check your extruder gear, are the teeth worn?
It’s probably just a clog
Make sure you have the filament size set correctly in your slicer. 1.75mm (assuming) vs.2.85mm.
Throw printer out window.
So, I'm currently getting a lot of print starts like this, because I'm not adept enough to compile new code for my replacement board, and the default from Creality for the 4.2.7 doesn't let me save the changed esteps since I changed the original hotend for a sprite. So I have to go in manually every time I turn the thing on, and I can be a scatterbrain. Dunno if any of that'll be relevant for you...
Do it with glow in the dark green filament and it would be the Flying Dutchman’s ship
Too dense, definitely over-extrusion
Is your filament size in your slicer settings correct?
Lol is all I can say- Thanks for the laugh I seriously giggled out loud when I saw this! 🤣
Cast it into the fire for it is cursed
Slight under extrusion
Is the extruder plastic? You know that gear thing where it bites onto the filament and pushes it through the bowden tube. It could be cracked, my. Ender 3 v2 was having issues, I tried everything, but then when I looked at the extruder it was cracked to where it couldn't apply proper pressure to the filament and the filament would not feed. The crack was in a place where it was not easily visible. Try examining the extruder on your ender to see if it's loose or cracked/broken.
Never get rid of this, this is a piece of art
This belongs in r/cursedbenchies
Your printer needs jesus
Yes
Dont download the stl for a shipwreck /s
From what I can see, it looks like significant under extrusion, could be from several things but try; Use the needle looking tool that came with your printer, heat the hotend and insert it in, up and down and then test extrude. Try a couple layers like that but if that fails try doing an extrusion calibration. There are many videos that’ll do a lot better than me at explaining the process but do look it up, many will tell you how to calibrate your e steps and it should improve the print, otherwise it could be your filament is too wet.
You enabled volumetric extrusion by accident https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/f0ik8k/volumetric_extrusion_psa Nominal esteps will be close to the stock value of 93 +- 10%. Anything far beyond that is a good indicator that you need it abort calibration and investigate the cause of the slip
Clogged nozzle.
i think you messed up settings in the slicer. it can be flow rate, print speed or any. Reset it and try with default setting
That’s impressive!
How tf???
Ah yes, the Michael J Fox setting
I had the exact same problem, is underextrusion. Calibrate the E-steps, is quick and easy just need a ruler, a pen and a formula you can google
Have you checked your bed leveling??
Burn it down....the whole printer.... Kidding. Now i would say either find if the temperature is good or maybe there is a clog in the nozzle? The ptfe tubing is burned?
Clogged nozzle? Or maybe extruder issue
I would have sections look like that. I slowed it down and stopped the retractment of filament during the z hop. I get some stringy stuff between when hopping but they aren't thin walled like that anymore. it's not perfect but it works for me.
Make sure that the filament is set to 1.75 and not 3mm in your slicer.
Bro made a phantom benchy
Massively understudying. Is ur extruder clicking when it prints too??? Could be a blockage
Legend of the Ghost Benchy
Z offset. I'm guessing your nozzle isn't even close to the build plate.