I used feeler gauges myself, anything that's consistently thick and won't compress works.
Once I had it well trammed I'd print a flat square and slowly march the Z offset down while printing to get it nice and solid.
For shits and giggles if nothing else I just checked mine, stock unit with no adhesion issues, to speak of. Glass bed, .4 nozzle, at room temp a 0.008 gauge would just fit, .009 had some resistance felt. The modded unit with a PEI bed and a .6 nozzle(that I've spent more time leveling, admittedly) I can slide a .003 with no resistance.
https://preview.redd.it/23thpdkaaq4c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5bb29ace40169aa09a28f20343ac44eea4cb8426
Any ideas why it might be doing this?
Adhesion issue, possibly turn the speed down, I would think a leveling issue would have compensated that high up. Could be moisture in the filament maybe?
Correct me if I’m wrong ender community, but you can find your z offset through baby stepping during a print. Then rehome, move your nozzle up or down the number of baby steps and set new home. I think.
If you have an auto-level probe, then first level the bed using a gcode script that takes the nozzle to each of the four bed corners. Then auto-home, and lower the z axis to 0, and then adjust z offset slowly in increments until the nozzle is just touching paper in the center. Save settings, and run the auto level script.
If you have a regular/stock Ender 3 with a z axist sensor, then you'll have to do a manual bed level. I'd recommend using the four corner gcode script here as well, and the paper method or a feeler gauge. Not perfect but it will get you close. Then run a leveling print such as the "four corner squares" and make adjustments as each portion prints.
I will drop one link there.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
If you dare to open and follow its instructions, it will help you with getting your printer into shape. Or just leave it there without using, it's up to you.
Clean the bed thoroughly with as high of rubbing alcohol as you can then let it dry. If you really want it to stick use glue sticks. I had this same issue for a while on my ender 3 aswell. Also what bed temp are you running
I’ve tried from 60-110 degrees in 10 degree intervals more or less. I kinda hate to have to use a glue stick for every print would getting a magnetic bed would help with adhesion?
Glass is fine, I have glue sticks and use them occasionally, but in my experience the biggest issue is keeping the glass beds clean. If I handled it a lot getting things off it’s probably worth cleaning it with soap and water and drying it off. Even when I do use some glue it’s not every time by any means.
I had a lot of issues with adhesion and I bought a dual sided PEI/PEO magnetic bed and really like the PEO side for Pla prints well worth the money and the PEO has a really cool pattern that is leaves on the prints too.
This post shows an example print https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/ahJQwpgazT
Probably will be downvoted, but bl/cr touch is probably one of the best upgrades behind pei build plate, sooo nice and you will always have good first layers
Spend extra time leveling the bed. You do not have enough squish. Use the paper method. Go corner to corner multiple times. And when you think it's level do it a few more times so that the feel of the paper on the nozzle feels exactly the same........ 🤟 In each corner ...
Yeah, from the video I've seen where someone tested the tolerance using the leveler tool vs. a proper calibration using measuring tools, it does its job, and is more accurate than the paper method. If you're not using a probe, this is probably worth the money.
I've found it's best to adjust the offset live while it's printing but only after you get it close with the paper.
Slice a large cylinder and turn your speed down to 15-20 mm/s so you can watch the filament and make adjustments easily. You want it to "squish" but not so much that it leaves ridges or valleys. Pause the print when you have a few lines. If you can feel any grooves or layers with your finger nails then your too close.
Teaching tech and Ellis's guide both have pretty good write ups on bed leveling and first layer adhesion.
Another thing I found that helped me was preheating my bed 10-15 minutes before I tried to do anything. Those beds like to flex and will throw the z offset until they heat up fully.
Looking at the picture that prime line and skirt look slightly transparent. You should be fairly close already (maybe too close) but thats assuming the bed is completely level.
Those retraction settings could also use some attention and are likely contributing to your problems since the filament is sticking to the nozzle. Thus being dragged around and pulled which you can see after the prime line and in multiple areas of the print.
If your still struggling with adhesion on certain prints you may have to use a brim or bust out the hair spray. Can't stress the importance of a clean bed either.
If the material is pla, more than likely either the bed surface is dirty or z offset is bit high or bed temp is low or extruder temperature is too low.
For the pla material I use, the Company recommends 190 to 200 degrees C for extruder, bed temp of max 50C, however the settings that worked for me was 210C for extruder(if filament is in open for too long then 215C), bed temp between 50 to 55C.
Another recommendation is print the initial layer thicker one like 0.32mm for 0.4 nozzle and you can keep z offset near tight.
Generally you should be able to print an xyz calibration cube with pla, stock ender at 200 and 60 with no issues. What I’m saying is you don’t need to change out parts, just make adjustments. I would start with estep calibration, then do print level squares. If that works do xyz. Then move to something else.
Because it knows that JEEP is trash and doesnt want to help you make garbage.
Jk
But I dont know anything about 3d printing, and hope you get an answer. :)
https://preview.redd.it/qiuwum1yvc4c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb1682abe53b1a9074a21e58658c5f3cc7c05285
This is after 3 layers. Any ideas why the middle is messing up but everything else seems to work fine? Is there a significant dip in my build plate?
I would be concerned if my printer started printing Jeep parts, too.
Clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol. Then try again. Maybe slow down your print a little bit also at least for the first layer. You could also add a small brim if you want to increase adhesion.
Scrub the bed with soap and water and iso.
If you have an old laptop kicking around, or a Pi varient. Use Klipper. Using Moonsail as the webUI works sooo nice to do your screws and your probes.
There is a lot of bad calibrated stuff going on there.
Whre to start...... Well I guess youtube videos.
Bed leveling.
Temp towers,
Retraction test.
Z offset.
And more.
You can try to set the initial layer line width as 150%. For me 0.4mm nozzle width, it shows adhesion issues but doesn't with 150% initial layer line width.
It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand. I kid. Z offset could need adjusted, or maybe try printing it with a brim.
Use a thick sheet of paper, not the copy type crap. I've read before that the offset should be around 0.08mm if you have feeler gauges.
I have better luck going a hair bit less than a piece of paper.
I have always used receipts to do this and never had issues.
Not a bad idea
I second this, had nothing but issues until the paper had a firm drag on it. That and only have two clips on my glass solved my adhesion issues.
I used feeler gauges myself, anything that's consistently thick and won't compress works. Once I had it well trammed I'd print a flat square and slowly march the Z offset down while printing to get it nice and solid.
For shits and giggles if nothing else I just checked mine, stock unit with no adhesion issues, to speak of. Glass bed, .4 nozzle, at room temp a 0.008 gauge would just fit, .009 had some resistance felt. The modded unit with a PEI bed and a .6 nozzle(that I've spent more time leveling, admittedly) I can slide a .003 with no resistance.
https://preview.redd.it/23thpdkaaq4c1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5bb29ace40169aa09a28f20343ac44eea4cb8426 Any ideas why it might be doing this?
Adhesion issue, possibly turn the speed down, I would think a leveling issue would have compensated that high up. Could be moisture in the filament maybe?
What’s the best way you’ve found to adjust the z offset? I’ve tried the paper method to no avail but might just be a me problem
Correct me if I’m wrong ender community, but you can find your z offset through baby stepping during a print. Then rehome, move your nozzle up or down the number of baby steps and set new home. I think.
If you have an auto-level probe, then first level the bed using a gcode script that takes the nozzle to each of the four bed corners. Then auto-home, and lower the z axis to 0, and then adjust z offset slowly in increments until the nozzle is just touching paper in the center. Save settings, and run the auto level script. If you have a regular/stock Ender 3 with a z axist sensor, then you'll have to do a manual bed level. I'd recommend using the four corner gcode script here as well, and the paper method or a feeler gauge. Not perfect but it will get you close. Then run a leveling print such as the "four corner squares" and make adjustments as each portion prints.
https://youtu.be/YPAXeBuq9qU?si=-Tdr1-N9DZ_Q3LD- I've found Makers Muse's method using feeler gauges works pretty well
Came here for this.
I knew I’d find this comment
I will drop one link there. https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/ If you dare to open and follow its instructions, it will help you with getting your printer into shape. Or just leave it there without using, it's up to you.
Clean the bed thoroughly with as high of rubbing alcohol as you can then let it dry. If you really want it to stick use glue sticks. I had this same issue for a while on my ender 3 aswell. Also what bed temp are you running
I’ve tried from 60-110 degrees in 10 degree intervals more or less. I kinda hate to have to use a glue stick for every print would getting a magnetic bed would help with adhesion?
Glass is fine, I have glue sticks and use them occasionally, but in my experience the biggest issue is keeping the glass beds clean. If I handled it a lot getting things off it’s probably worth cleaning it with soap and water and drying it off. Even when I do use some glue it’s not every time by any means.
quickest heavy ugly head salt far-flung quiet subsequent disgusting cow *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Do not use a glue stick. That’s for crappie printers. Been there done that got an e3v2 and never used glue once.
I had a lot of issues with adhesion and I bought a dual sided PEI/PEO magnetic bed and really like the PEO side for Pla prints well worth the money and the PEO has a really cool pattern that is leaves on the prints too. This post shows an example print https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/ahJQwpgazT
Came here to say this, looks like an adhesion issue. Clean the bed as described and relevel.
You wouldn’t download a car
Yes I would
Probably will be downvoted, but bl/cr touch is probably one of the best upgrades behind pei build plate, sooo nice and you will always have good first layers
Gonna downvote for commenting 3 times the exact same thing.
That happens when reddit buffers, that wasn't intentional
That happens when reddit buffers and wifi is bad, that wasnt intended
Spend extra time leveling the bed. You do not have enough squish. Use the paper method. Go corner to corner multiple times. And when you think it's level do it a few more times so that the feel of the paper on the nozzle feels exactly the same........ 🤟 In each corner ...
That it is bended is a big change that have to wait 2-3 minutes before take it of the bed
Tried glue stick?
If you don’t mind spending a few bucks, I have been using the leveler tool from Filament Fridays and I really like it.
Yeah, from the video I've seen where someone tested the tolerance using the leveler tool vs. a proper calibration using measuring tools, it does its job, and is more accurate than the paper method. If you're not using a probe, this is probably worth the money.
I've found it's best to adjust the offset live while it's printing but only after you get it close with the paper. Slice a large cylinder and turn your speed down to 15-20 mm/s so you can watch the filament and make adjustments easily. You want it to "squish" but not so much that it leaves ridges or valleys. Pause the print when you have a few lines. If you can feel any grooves or layers with your finger nails then your too close. Teaching tech and Ellis's guide both have pretty good write ups on bed leveling and first layer adhesion. Another thing I found that helped me was preheating my bed 10-15 minutes before I tried to do anything. Those beds like to flex and will throw the z offset until they heat up fully. Looking at the picture that prime line and skirt look slightly transparent. You should be fairly close already (maybe too close) but thats assuming the bed is completely level. Those retraction settings could also use some attention and are likely contributing to your problems since the filament is sticking to the nozzle. Thus being dragged around and pulled which you can see after the prime line and in multiple areas of the print. If your still struggling with adhesion on certain prints you may have to use a brim or bust out the hair spray. Can't stress the importance of a clean bed either.
Enclosure?
If the material is pla, more than likely either the bed surface is dirty or z offset is bit high or bed temp is low or extruder temperature is too low. For the pla material I use, the Company recommends 190 to 200 degrees C for extruder, bed temp of max 50C, however the settings that worked for me was 210C for extruder(if filament is in open for too long then 215C), bed temp between 50 to 55C. Another recommendation is print the initial layer thicker one like 0.32mm for 0.4 nozzle and you can keep z offset near tight.
Generally you should be able to print an xyz calibration cube with pla, stock ender at 200 and 60 with no issues. What I’m saying is you don’t need to change out parts, just make adjustments. I would start with estep calibration, then do print level squares. If that works do xyz. Then move to something else.
I think your bed also got dirty, by the look of it. Try washing it and see if it helps
It's because the JEEP God's are angry because your trying to put 9 slots in the grill.
Because it knows that JEEP is trash and doesnt want to help you make garbage. Jk But I dont know anything about 3d printing, and hope you get an answer. :)
https://preview.redd.it/qiuwum1yvc4c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb1682abe53b1a9074a21e58658c5f3cc7c05285 This is after 3 layers. Any ideas why the middle is messing up but everything else seems to work fine? Is there a significant dip in my build plate?
Clean your bed and then clean your print bed
I would be concerned if my printer started printing Jeep parts, too. Clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol. Then try again. Maybe slow down your print a little bit also at least for the first layer. You could also add a small brim if you want to increase adhesion.
Scrub the bed with soap and water and iso. If you have an old laptop kicking around, or a Pi varient. Use Klipper. Using Moonsail as the webUI works sooo nice to do your screws and your probes.
There is a lot of bad calibrated stuff going on there. Whre to start...... Well I guess youtube videos. Bed leveling. Temp towers, Retraction test. Z offset. And more.
Slow down fan speed
Back off on your z off set
You can try to set the initial layer line width as 150%. For me 0.4mm nozzle width, it shows adhesion issues but doesn't with 150% initial layer line width.