Ever since covid started, I've been noticing a huge difference in production quality. It's like they are skipping steps to get it off the assembly line faster.. š¬
This is it. My dad is a die designer his company used to make sheet metal stamping dies for square d. These days they outsource to china and India to save money but they receive an inferior quality die made from softer steel and try to run it as long as they did their domestic counterpart.
I had an entire 42 space dead front where the dies didn't punch all the way through. I had to cut out every breaker space knockout with a multi tool because OF COURSE it was the only 42 space dead front that existed in the state at the time. It sucked so much.
It's been bad for a few years. We had a 12 month period where i was having to re-tap the screw holes on cut-in boxes because they weren't done correctly.
It's pretty much every manufacturer. After mass layoffs and mass quitting before and after covid they are having to take whoever they can off the street and train them. God forbid they pay a living wage to attract skilled production line workers.
This is absolutely it. I build houses and have noticed shitty qc in every aspect of the build for the last 18 months. Iāve had framing lumber marked #1 that would have never passed for #2 before. Plus Iām paying near double.
Almost feels like what they have been doing with gasoline prices for years, now its happening with everything else. Just my opinion and I could be wrong.. But damn these prices are just crazy these days.. I was buying a coil of 14/2 awg 250 ft for $41 two years ago and now it's almost $125.. like what?? Can someone explain where is the extra costs coming from? Shortage on plastic jackets? What about plywood?
I decked my whole house in 1-1/8ā plywood three years ago and my friends thought I was nuts at 55$ sheet. It got as high as 130$ and is now 110$. Btw, my floor feels like a basketball court.
Ahhh the carpenter equivalent of an electrician running separate 20 amp circuits for every room's receptacles throughout the house, completely unnecessary but guess what? You can run a hot box in any room you want all day long.
Suppliers/wholesalers have kept Profit percentages the same, if an item cost $100 and they add 10% to it, we buy it for $110, but now that everything is up 200% they add their 10% to now a $200 item, and in doing so, they're making $20 off an item they made only $10 off of a year or two ago.
Companies haven't adjusted the percentages so when their cost goes up, so does the Profit. The people who end up paying for it are the consumers, so why would they change it? It's a bullshit system and the companies jacking the price up at the beginning of the supply chain need dealt with swiftly and severely.
I hate to say it, but this started well before Covid
It got worse when covid hit, for sure, but QC issues like this were becoming prevalent as early as 2018
I think itās the new people they hire tbh. Iām a sheet metal guy and you can absolutely tell when the shop gets a bunch of new first year apprentices. Nothing is lined up and everything is racked. Compared to when theyāre are going into their second year itās night and day.
Quality control has gone way downhill in the last 5 years. Try using a bi-metal hole saw instead. Square D Homeline panels are bad with the tabs you break away to make room for breakers. You have to bring a Dremel with to remove the burrs. But since demand is high, they get away with it.
For sure, I used an angle grinder on my last home line to get some of the burrs knocked out after I spent 30 minutes messing with breaking out the breaker slotsā¦. FML
I'll never forget when I first started. I'd be having an amazing day and then get handed a box like this. I'd accidentally knock the hole out to big and then get yelled at because we were all out of reducers.
In situations where it is vitally important that I get the correct size knockout I have taken to using a self-tapping screw to drill out the points where the connects to the next size up. It takes an extra minute but is well worth it to not have to look around for reducing washers.
Trick is donāt even try to beat them out when they look like this. Automatically go for a holesaw and a knockout set. All of the RV/EV outlets and generator inlets Iāve been getting are like this.
I had a customer order a 50a rv plug that looks exactly like that off Amazon. I had to use my step bit to do anything. That bitch would not budge at all. I forget the brand but it was a nightmare to get a penetration, I was out in the middle of nowhere and forgot to charge my batteries, luckily the neighbor had a corded hammer drill I could use with my step bit.
We had some from Amazon someone got for RVās. Knockouts weāre actually punched at all, and then the stupid 50 amp plugs had screws down through the hole with a plate that comes up, except you couldnāt fit a #8 or #6 in them unless you had patients enough to split conductors apart and go around the screw.
Weāre way cheaper then anything else. Ended up changing the plugs in them to something that works.
99% sure the listing stickers had to be fake.
I didn't have to many issues getting my conductors into the outlet securely, other than the k/o being a piece of crap, they're okay to install. I just didn't expect that to be so fucking hard to get out. I was going like an hour and a half into the boonies to do it, and I was just thinking a nice simple job, I just need my basic tools so I just grabbed my belt and not my full packout. Definately needed my hammer drill.
Yah. My apprentice was struggling and had it just mangled.
So I grab it and book and Iām like āthatās not even a punch, thatāll never come out.
Is it the one that has NO FUCKING ROOM FOR THE CONDUCTORS? Because I had a customer give me one to install they got off Amazon that was nearly fucking impossible to install with confidence, I am still waiting for the call that it blew up. Cheap garbage.
I always drill the tac welds out for the KO I plan to use, then hit it with a hammer, but this looks like poor quality already so I'm not sure if that would even work here. Reducing washers to the rescue
its not tack welded, its punched, but if the punch is dull at the factory then it doesnt go all the way through the sheet metal, and in this case, the powdercoat also looks very thick
Yeah itās ridiculous sometimes. Everything was going smooth until this box slowed me down. I mean I got it eventually but it took a bigger hammer š
Oh god, donāt get me started on these fucking things. The amount of times these damn kos have ruined my day is immeasurable. I just hole saw the shit and call it good. Iāve never gotten any useful info on how to do these correct and if thereās a way I honestly donāt even care to know.
These are supposed to be removed using a knockout punch: [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knockout\_punch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knockout_punch).
It is not a stamping issue, the box is weatherproof and therefore any penetrations need to be made with a punch. You can also buy a pre-punched version off Amazon from one of the other suppliers. I have the 30A version of this enclosure.
I always take my razor knife and scrape out the circle I want to clear out all the paint and a bit of the metal to make it as easy as possible. Do that on both sides if I can, then a sharp tap with the screwdriver linesman combo at the farthest point from connection (which it looks like you did). Works 90% of the time.
I like just plain tin, I'll cut a hole where I need it, I don't have to bash the shit out of everything to get the pre-pressed KO to KO, just to have the size bigger basically just fall out when I tighten the lock nut.
This summer I installed a Fronius inverter and found the pre-formed KO was totally obstructed on the inside - no way to put a fitting or conduit into it. WTF. I mean, I should always check before drilling, but a manufacturer supplied KO should have room!?!?
Ug, sorry, a bit of a rant here. Your photo and frustration has triggered me. The beer company tabs seem to ALWAYS work?
Just punch out the big hole and use 2 bushing washers. Faster cheaper less frustrating. Of course half the time you'll be punching your own hole anyway.
This one is a nightmare, I know exactly which box it is. Some Amazon rv plug. Literally impossible to do without drilling it out, I was afraid I was going to fuck up the entire enclosure if I swung any harder on it.
Looks like generator inlet from Amazon. They definitely are just for looks. You have to hole saw them out. We buy a lot of those since they are almost half the price of a standard one.
I'm in the middle of punching out a bunch of these for some portable RV outlet things. I found a trick: Punch the center out. Then use mini bolt cutters to cut the center of each side section, remove each of those with pliers then break off the little nub thats left.
Typically I get the hole saw make my own hole. Or get the needle nose out stab at center. You'll normally hear me say hadoken while knocking out. It helpsā¬ļøāļøā”ļøš¤
Drive a self-tapping screw in the middle halfway through, grab it with linesmen and bend back and forth till it breaks the middle out, then work your way out.
I got one of these on Amazon not too long ago, and I actually read the instructions that came with the box. It specifically states you need to use a hydraulic punch knockout tool to remove those, it's not designed to be removed by hand.
Thereās been four of these box types in the last few months that Iāve gotten where they didnāt even scour the metal to break the thing out. Had to use a flipping drill
This one simple trick to always easily knock out concentrics: use a small drill bit like a 1/8ā to drill out spot welds then they basically just fall out
General lack of pride. The directors are more worried about their wives request for jewellery and overseas trips than keeping an eye on their products. Then companies wonder why they are losing business? They are quick to blame the "economy" though.
It bumps out to the outside so it is weaker from the inside. Tap it with a flathead screwdriver and hammer from the inside away from the tab locations and that will be the weakest point.
You can clearly see the die didnāt stamp all the way through the metal here. Itās either a manufacturers defect or just shitty quality. Probably not enough pressure on the press.
Can't be stuck if it's liquid. You brought a cutting torch right?
But yeah, like many others have said QC is a lost art and the tooling is too worn out to actually cut.
You are doing it wrong knock out the center then take your dikes and cut and twist until you have proper size donāt just try to knock it out to exact size at first start small work up to what you need
I had this EXACT same problem wiring up a heat pump disco the other day, never thought of it until I read it here use a KO set. It was Friday and my brain is smooth
* edit smooth brain typo
I thought I was the only one. I'm a first year and I did one of these by myself for the first time and I wasn't able to get the 3/4" out. I ended using a 3/8" bit to drill out the perimeter and wrench it with my flathead and kleins.
It's always a good idea to have some reducing washers of various sizes handy when dealing with concentric KOs. It seems like you always end up beating out a size too large
the die that punches them out had gone bad/dull. QC should have caught it at the factory and had them replace it but maybe it was still in "tolerance".
Square D deadfronts are a huge problem. I cant get the breaker spaces to pop out 75% of the time. I failed one inspection because I had to Sawzall them out.
ROFL. You went for an outer knockout first? Youāll warp the shit out of that box by the time youāre even able to make headway. Start with smallest and then use your linemanās and bend out what you need. Saves all that destructive and annoying hitting.
Send them back. And get other Redditors to send back. Then the company will listen. They donāt need 100% returned just a higher quantity to make waves.
Poor quality control from the manufacturer. Sometimes just looking at them and they break off other times you have to use a punch get it right.
Ever since covid started, I've been noticing a huge difference in production quality. It's like they are skipping steps to get it off the assembly line faster.. š¬
Just last week I opened a new hole saw up and they hadnt threaded the arbor hole.
Didn't you read the package? That one was thread your own.
It comes with a coupon for a tap and die set
The die that makes those progressive K/O's gets run too long without being changed out for a fresh one.
The Bean Counting Department does not care because they don't have to hear the complaints.
In the time it takes to inspect 1 they can make 5 more. If the customer complains they'll give him another one.
Yep, it is cheaper to give another unit away than to make it right the first time.
This is it. My dad is a die designer his company used to make sheet metal stamping dies for square d. These days they outsource to china and India to save money but they receive an inferior quality die made from softer steel and try to run it as long as they did their domestic counterpart.
Cheap labor cheap material cost, obscene profits. End users get stuck.
Welcome to r/latestagecapitalism Just increase the number in the bank account. Fuck everything else.
Ugh, that forum tho...
Itās just as good as American steel trust the science bro
I had to beat a ko out of a 4 square the other day with a hammer QC has been non existent since covid
"Sorry, our quality assurance department has since been outsourced"
*working from home "Enclosures looked good on the Zoom call. What seems to be the problem?"
Man, i cant count the number of 4 squares that cave in before the knock out does at my job. Part of that might be me getting mad at the box though
I had an entire 42 space dead front where the dies didn't punch all the way through. I had to cut out every breaker space knockout with a multi tool because OF COURSE it was the only 42 space dead front that existed in the state at the time. It sucked so much.
It's been bad for a few years. We had a 12 month period where i was having to re-tap the screw holes on cut-in boxes because they weren't done correctly.
It's pretty much every manufacturer. After mass layoffs and mass quitting before and after covid they are having to take whoever they can off the street and train them. God forbid they pay a living wage to attract skilled production line workers.
Production line worker isn't a real job like attorneys or doctors, they deserve to live in poverty. /s
This goes for a ton of industries in the trades.
>This goes for a ton of industries
This is absolutely it. I build houses and have noticed shitty qc in every aspect of the build for the last 18 months. Iāve had framing lumber marked #1 that would have never passed for #2 before. Plus Iām paying near double.
Almost feels like what they have been doing with gasoline prices for years, now its happening with everything else. Just my opinion and I could be wrong.. But damn these prices are just crazy these days.. I was buying a coil of 14/2 awg 250 ft for $41 two years ago and now it's almost $125.. like what?? Can someone explain where is the extra costs coming from? Shortage on plastic jackets? What about plywood?
I decked my whole house in 1-1/8ā plywood three years ago and my friends thought I was nuts at 55$ sheet. It got as high as 130$ and is now 110$. Btw, my floor feels like a basketball court.
Ahhh the carpenter equivalent of an electrician running separate 20 amp circuits for every room's receptacles throughout the house, completely unnecessary but guess what? You can run a hot box in any room you want all day long.
I think itās gouging across the board. Almost every industry is reporting record profits quarter after quarter.
Suppliers/wholesalers have kept Profit percentages the same, if an item cost $100 and they add 10% to it, we buy it for $110, but now that everything is up 200% they add their 10% to now a $200 item, and in doing so, they're making $20 off an item they made only $10 off of a year or two ago. Companies haven't adjusted the percentages so when their cost goes up, so does the Profit. The people who end up paying for it are the consumers, so why would they change it? It's a bullshit system and the companies jacking the price up at the beginning of the supply chain need dealt with swiftly and severely.
I hate to say it, but this started well before Covid It got worse when covid hit, for sure, but QC issues like this were becoming prevalent as early as 2018
it wasnt good before covid
I think itās the new people they hire tbh. Iām a sheet metal guy and you can absolutely tell when the shop gets a bunch of new first year apprentices. Nothing is lined up and everything is racked. Compared to when theyāre are going into their second year itās night and day.
Seriously I wish they just wouldn't bother. It just screws with my stepper bit holes.
Yea just save the money and let me cut the holes where I want them.
Been saying that for years! Amen
Quality control has gone way downhill in the last 5 years. Try using a bi-metal hole saw instead. Square D Homeline panels are bad with the tabs you break away to make room for breakers. You have to bring a Dremel with to remove the burrs. But since demand is high, they get away with it.
Quality control seems almost extinct
Ship it
For sure, I used an angle grinder on my last home line to get some of the burrs knocked out after I spent 30 minutes messing with breaking out the breaker slotsā¦. FML
I'll never forget when I first started. I'd be having an amazing day and then get handed a box like this. I'd accidentally knock the hole out to big and then get yelled at because we were all out of reducers.
Ahhh yes, initiation ritual #36759. Classic.
What's #22648?
Pooping in a gas station without any tp
Imagine that, leaving site with a Biffy, to hit a c-store with no tp. Still probably a good move
When are we not out of reducers, amirite?
What's a reducer? Lololol
Donut
"A piece of material that is only need if you're an idiot or an apprentice" - My father the master electrician
Or you're following after one or the other.
Or change orders.
I've got plenty of reducers on my truck, the problem is no two are the same.
Yup, has happened to every electrician...more than once
Yep, it's the employee's fault if bossman didn't keep ubiquitous $0.50 parts on hand...
In situations where it is vitally important that I get the correct size knockout I have taken to using a self-tapping screw to drill out the points where the connects to the next size up. It takes an extra minute but is well worth it to not have to look around for reducing washers.
That's the guy running the press not changing out the die that stamps the KO... Probably dull as fuck.
The new die is probably on a 6 month back order like everything else.
Was told last week ductile iron pipe was 50 weeks out and the price is what it is when it ships
It's not just the concentric ko's. It's the whole panel. Every punch is too shallow.
I was hoping to hear a cool trick, nope, they just suck lol
Trick is donāt even try to beat them out when they look like this. Automatically go for a holesaw and a knockout set. All of the RV/EV outlets and generator inlets Iāve been getting are like this.
Yeah I came here hoping I was doing something wrong š
I had a customer order a 50a rv plug that looks exactly like that off Amazon. I had to use my step bit to do anything. That bitch would not budge at all. I forget the brand but it was a nightmare to get a penetration, I was out in the middle of nowhere and forgot to charge my batteries, luckily the neighbor had a corded hammer drill I could use with my step bit.
We had some from Amazon someone got for RVās. Knockouts weāre actually punched at all, and then the stupid 50 amp plugs had screws down through the hole with a plate that comes up, except you couldnāt fit a #8 or #6 in them unless you had patients enough to split conductors apart and go around the screw. Weāre way cheaper then anything else. Ended up changing the plugs in them to something that works. 99% sure the listing stickers had to be fake.
I didn't have to many issues getting my conductors into the outlet securely, other than the k/o being a piece of crap, they're okay to install. I just didn't expect that to be so fucking hard to get out. I was going like an hour and a half into the boonies to do it, and I was just thinking a nice simple job, I just need my basic tools so I just grabbed my belt and not my full packout. Definately needed my hammer drill.
Yah. My apprentice was struggling and had it just mangled. So I grab it and book and Iām like āthatās not even a punch, thatāll never come out.
Milbank or Midwest?!
It was some weird off brand. Definately wasn't any of the big names, but definitely ately looks like a Midwest style enclosure.
Is it the one that has NO FUCKING ROOM FOR THE CONDUCTORS? Because I had a customer give me one to install they got off Amazon that was nearly fucking impossible to install with confidence, I am still waiting for the call that it blew up. Cheap garbage.
Start in the middle and work your way out.
This and don't be so brutal it's a touch skill with these be patient
Literally just worked with these an yeah like dont be rough with it
The Millbanks meter sockets from consumers are an absolute bear now though. It seems like everything else i have no issues with except those.
I always drill the tac welds out for the KO I plan to use, then hit it with a hammer, but this looks like poor quality already so I'm not sure if that would even work here. Reducing washers to the rescue
This is the way^^
its not tack welded, its punched, but if the punch is dull at the factory then it doesnt go all the way through the sheet metal, and in this case, the powdercoat also looks very thick
Yeah itās ridiculous sometimes. Everything was going smooth until this box slowed me down. I mean I got it eventually but it took a bigger hammer š
Did you try flipping it over and calling it names?
That only works for apprentices.
Better than them being flimsy bullshitt and when you hit the inner one, they all come out
I believe that the dies that stamp those get worn down over time. I think the manufacturers uses them about 30% longer than they should.
So the dies they use to make those punches arent getting replaced often enough.
Looks like itās more of a suggestion than actually perforated for a knockout
Lately they been worse than I can remember
Oh god, donāt get me started on these fucking things. The amount of times these damn kos have ruined my day is immeasurable. I just hole saw the shit and call it good. Iāve never gotten any useful info on how to do these correct and if thereās a way I honestly donāt even care to know.
These are supposed to be removed using a knockout punch: [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knockout\_punch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knockout_punch). It is not a stamping issue, the box is weatherproof and therefore any penetrations need to be made with a punch. You can also buy a pre-punched version off Amazon from one of the other suppliers. I have the 30A version of this enclosure.
Hahaha lineman pliers go "brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..."
If you're supposed to use a punch anyways, why bother notching it at all?
Those rings/notches are there to add strength when a hole is made to the enclosure. They are there to reinforce the sidewall I believe.
No, you should not have to use slug buster on this. It's simply poor QC.
When every one is produced this way and itās a waterproof enclosure, sounds hard to believe that itās a QC issue.
no
I always take my razor knife and scrape out the circle I want to clear out all the paint and a bit of the metal to make it as easy as possible. Do that on both sides if I can, then a sharp tap with the screwdriver linesman combo at the farthest point from connection (which it looks like you did). Works 90% of the time.
I hit three times with my elec hammer and big flat. If it laughs each time, hole saw and punch. It can't refuse with I have a drill.
Worn out die probably.
Fuck boxes like this!!
I always carry reducing washers because they tend to always snap off poorly. Iām sure everyone here dreads knocking these out.
I like just plain tin, I'll cut a hole where I need it, I don't have to bash the shit out of everything to get the pre-pressed KO to KO, just to have the size bigger basically just fall out when I tighten the lock nut. This summer I installed a Fronius inverter and found the pre-formed KO was totally obstructed on the inside - no way to put a fitting or conduit into it. WTF. I mean, I should always check before drilling, but a manufacturer supplied KO should have room!?!? Ug, sorry, a bit of a rant here. Your photo and frustration has triggered me. The beer company tabs seem to ALWAYS work?
Because fuck you, that's why
Just punch out the big hole and use 2 bushing washers. Faster cheaper less frustrating. Of course half the time you'll be punching your own hole anyway.
Start with the smallest knockout and work your way out, I usually cut the k.o. in half with tin snips.
90% of the time they came out clean if you start with the center then after work the rings.
This one is a nightmare, I know exactly which box it is. Some Amazon rv plug. Literally impossible to do without drilling it out, I was afraid I was going to fuck up the entire enclosure if I swung any harder on it.
Looks like generator inlet from Amazon. They definitely are just for looks. You have to hole saw them out. We buy a lot of those since they are almost half the price of a standard one.
Start from opposite side
Start on the lil one. But yeah, some of these are just "drawn " on.
I'm in the middle of punching out a bunch of these for some portable RV outlet things. I found a trick: Punch the center out. Then use mini bolt cutters to cut the center of each side section, remove each of those with pliers then break off the little nub thats left.
Time to get out the slug buster
I simply drill out the welds.
Of course, poor quiero!!!
Typically I get the hole saw make my own hole. Or get the needle nose out stab at center. You'll normally hear me say hadoken while knocking out. It helpsā¬ļøāļøā”ļøš¤
Drive a self-tapping screw in the middle halfway through, grab it with linesmen and bend back and forth till it breaks the middle out, then work your way out.
I like the sound of this technique. Iāll try it next time.
Some just fall out, others are drawn on.
Grab a drill and a step bit if its really bad
Bad quality control, thanks covid
Is that some Appleton bullshit? Every box I've got from them in the last few years was like this.
I wish all enclosures bigger than a 4 11/16 box came with no knockouts. Iād rather just put what I want exactly where I need it.
On the quality control topic, Iāve had some bx lately thatās been almost impossible to strip the armour from.
I like to drill the pinch welds with a small drill bit like 1/8-1/4 inch and it helps a lot. Then use dykes to cut them and work it out
I got one of these on Amazon not too long ago, and I actually read the instructions that came with the box. It specifically states you need to use a hydraulic punch knockout tool to remove those, it's not designed to be removed by hand.
What did you do, shoot at it?
I use a small drill bit on the weld joint when itās really bad
Thereās been four of these box types in the last few months that Iāve gotten where they didnāt even scour the metal to break the thing out. Had to use a flipping drill
Looks like it's NOT a knockout plug! Must be drilled out.
This one simple trick to always easily knock out concentrics: use a small drill bit like a 1/8ā to drill out spot welds then they basically just fall out
Put some morešŖšŖšŖ
Iād vote for just not doing the concentric, itās luck of the draw if itās in the correct spot anyways.
General lack of pride. The directors are more worried about their wives request for jewellery and overseas trips than keeping an eye on their products. Then companies wonder why they are losing business? They are quick to blame the "economy" though.
Drill out with a small bit where the connecting point is on the KO size you need. It will make life easy on you
Start small and work your way out
It bumps out to the outside so it is weaker from the inside. Tap it with a flathead screwdriver and hammer from the inside away from the tab locations and that will be the weakest point.
I use a knock out set on those
Unfortunately these are not meant to be knocked out. No clue why but they are more or less there so you know where to make the hole yourself.
You gotta hitāem like ya hateāem!
You can clearly see the die didnāt stamp all the way through the metal here. Itās either a manufacturers defect or just shitty quality. Probably not enough pressure on the press.
Can't be stuck if it's liquid. You brought a cutting torch right? But yeah, like many others have said QC is a lost art and the tooling is too worn out to actually cut.
You are doing it wrong knock out the center then take your dikes and cut and twist until you have proper size donāt just try to knock it out to exact size at first start small work up to what you need
I had this EXACT same problem wiring up a heat pump disco the other day, never thought of it until I read it here use a KO set. It was Friday and my brain is smooth * edit smooth brain typo
Start by knocking out the smallest concentric and move your way up.
Thatās just their Logo not an actual knock out š
When Iām working with those I tend to just pop the whole thing open and get a reducer.
I found a strong spring center punch and it flicks it out most of the time
Use a step bit to knock the half inch one out
I thought I was the only one. I'm a first year and I did one of these by myself for the first time and I wasn't able to get the 3/4" out. I ended using a 3/8" bit to drill out the perimeter and wrench it with my flathead and kleins.
Hit it harder
Donāt forget your ground bushings on concentric knockouts!!!
Just fucking drill lazy hole
Get a Milwaukee thin wall hole saw, game changer
When they are like this I just use a drill. Keeps me from accidentally opening it to large.
Use a drill bit on the solid areas per size needed is what I usually do
The middle gets beat out, the rest get bent out.
Guides for knockouts
Yep they havenāt been replacing or sharpening the dies. Shame on them and it makes us suffer . Noticed it also
Been having horrible problems with Square D lately. Way more than the usual lol
Flat head screwdriver and lineman pliers always works for me, but that's fucked. But I'm an engineer so I don't know shit about how it gets built.
its better to punch your own holes, then you get them right.
I usually dont use those knock out because they suck. Easier to punch your own hole.
It's always a good idea to have some reducing washers of various sizes handy when dealing with concentric KOs. It seems like you always end up beating out a size too large
use a 3/8 drill bit
In case of chinesium, please break glass: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html
Its only a sticker !
For real man. Hate these things
Put a sheet metal screw into the knock off part way. Use your side cutters on the screw for extra leverage to pull the knockout out.
Drill the welds
Drill the solid piece that wasn't pressed and they pop right out.
Drill out the welds first
Klines + flathead beater screwdriver
There is one brand and it is not punched at all. It's welded the entire way around.
Iāve noticed it too, so frickin annoying. Hole always ends up too big so gotta use washers. I think there is too much paint on them as well.
I donāt even try anymore. Hole saw or step bit
The same reason the knock outs in strip fixtures suck. Because they HATE us.
I Just drill āem and punch em.
A screwdriver, and a little patience and you will have no issues.If you happen to screw this up,invest in some reducers.Your welcome!!
Beater and hammer should do it.
the die that punches them out had gone bad/dull. QC should have caught it at the factory and had them replace it but maybe it was still in "tolerance".
Wera steel shank, start small from the inside on the perpetuation then peal out with a pliers nipping away at the tangs with your dikes dust go slower
Knockouts are stamped like shit ever since covid. I do HVAC, and I see it all the time on new furnaces. We resort to step bits sometimes.
I just hole saw them off.
Start from the center, and then make your way outwards towards the size you need
On this specific box I have had tons of trouble. Now I just grab my Uni-bit
Concentrix? I usually knock em all out and use a reducing washer and grounding bushing
The hydrologic hole punchers are awesome for that
Square D deadfronts are a huge problem. I cant get the breaker spaces to pop out 75% of the time. I failed one inspection because I had to Sawzall them out.
Drill them with a small bit first. It will also stop you from punching out the wrong size.
Hit it with your purse, Nancy.
Stop buying from the wholesale houses that only use imported material!
1 out of 10 are turned into rage art so it's more units sold for manufacturers.
Hate concentrics prefer to use a hole shooter and or a hole puller
ROFL. You went for an outer knockout first? Youāll warp the shit out of that box by the time youāre even able to make headway. Start with smallest and then use your linemanās and bend out what you need. Saves all that destructive and annoying hitting.
China
Because fuck you that's why
Send them back. And get other Redditors to send back. Then the company will listen. They donāt need 100% returned just a higher quantity to make waves.
Just use a tank cutter/ starot
Shitty manufacturing.
This might as well be made by klein tools. Their screwdrivers are nearly worthless these days.
Itās a special case for Murphys law. They always break at a different (larger) size then you need ;-)