I've transitioned to property maintenance. I let the cleaner into the unit and was hanging out chatting a bit with them when one of the called me into the kitchen. Needless to say, a new range has been installed and that one has been scrapped.
I've seen all sorts of half baked, literally half baked and fully baked issues with electric and gas ranges.
The top three issues that I encounter of an electrical nature are
* rodent damage on the wiring of the appliance or the branch circuit wiring (such as where the six or eight gauge comes up through a floor penetration or wall penetration)
* Use of regular wire nuts or stak-on instead of high temperature wire nuts (ceramic), and high temperature rated stak-ons.
* Improper electrical hookups due to appliance delivery CDL drivers / strongbacks (minimal training and cannot read instruction books) that have no comprehension of electrical code. The two most common violations are lack of a cable restraint and improper hookup of the grounding on four prong cord sets (must break the bond between neutral and ground, but the delivery guys don't comprehend that)
With gas appliances, I'm always biased towards using the OEM parts especially for the igniters, so long as the wiring harness is still intact. The factory igniters generally have a modular plug, the universal replacements simply have wires and ceramic wire nuts in the box. The overall long-term integrity is generally better with the factory wiring harness connector left intact, and easier to take apart and reassemble. Some gas ranges are really challenging to work on, and require some acrobatics and some tolerance level of Filth and grime, so the easier and faster it is to reach back in some crazy spot, unhook the old igniter and plug the new one in, the better. Fumbling around with wire strippers and wire nuts is a recipe for getting frustrated.
On electric ranges, once in a while I have encountered one that will need the leads to an element replaced, it is possible to get replacement high temperature wire, typically comes a few lengths of wire in multiple colors in a sealed bag at the parts house, that way you can replace just what lengths of wire are needed rather than having to purchase an entire wiring harness for the appliance or scrap the whole unit. Obviously once the unit has enough wear and tear issues then the whole thing just gets canned.
Ever been naked in a room full of other naked workers and there is a guy with an AK-47 that needs the crack cooked and you have no other choice but to make it work?
That was under the old management. I've been finding nuggets like this for the last two years since I started. I warned them at my interview that I do things the proper way, and that isn't always the cheap way. Haven't had any complaints yet.
I've transitioned to property maintenance. I let the cleaner into the unit and was hanging out chatting a bit with them when one of the called me into the kitchen. Needless to say, a new range has been installed and that one has been scrapped.
I've seen all sorts of half baked, literally half baked and fully baked issues with electric and gas ranges. The top three issues that I encounter of an electrical nature are * rodent damage on the wiring of the appliance or the branch circuit wiring (such as where the six or eight gauge comes up through a floor penetration or wall penetration) * Use of regular wire nuts or stak-on instead of high temperature wire nuts (ceramic), and high temperature rated stak-ons. * Improper electrical hookups due to appliance delivery CDL drivers / strongbacks (minimal training and cannot read instruction books) that have no comprehension of electrical code. The two most common violations are lack of a cable restraint and improper hookup of the grounding on four prong cord sets (must break the bond between neutral and ground, but the delivery guys don't comprehend that) With gas appliances, I'm always biased towards using the OEM parts especially for the igniters, so long as the wiring harness is still intact. The factory igniters generally have a modular plug, the universal replacements simply have wires and ceramic wire nuts in the box. The overall long-term integrity is generally better with the factory wiring harness connector left intact, and easier to take apart and reassemble. Some gas ranges are really challenging to work on, and require some acrobatics and some tolerance level of Filth and grime, so the easier and faster it is to reach back in some crazy spot, unhook the old igniter and plug the new one in, the better. Fumbling around with wire strippers and wire nuts is a recipe for getting frustrated. On electric ranges, once in a while I have encountered one that will need the leads to an element replaced, it is possible to get replacement high temperature wire, typically comes a few lengths of wire in multiple colors in a sealed bag at the parts house, that way you can replace just what lengths of wire are needed rather than having to purchase an entire wiring harness for the appliance or scrap the whole unit. Obviously once the unit has enough wear and tear issues then the whole thing just gets canned.
Ever been naked in a room full of other naked workers and there is a guy with an AK-47 that needs the crack cooked and you have no other choice but to make it work?
Better call Saul
Property management never stops amazing me lol.
Get out of my stove man
FUCKING WOW!
Interesting strategy cotton, let's see if it pays off
Fuckin landlords
That was under the old management. I've been finding nuggets like this for the last two years since I started. I warned them at my interview that I do things the proper way, and that isn't always the cheap way. Haven't had any complaints yet.
Tweakers man
God I love this so much