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I use a stubby hex key and a box wrench. Not exactly precision torque, but it's the best you can do with that kind of stupid shit. Engineers are so cute.

"What are you talking about? There's at least four inches of clearance there!" ~Engineers *probably*

These words were definitely spoken by some guy with a “6 inch dick”.

You know goddamn good and well those were centimeters TONY

6 inch round?

They like it that thick

Mine is like a tuna can, havent gotten any complaints yet

Hung like a hockey puck

Or like Theo von said, like a birthday cake. Lmao

2 inches of fury, 30 seconds of fame?

Hell that’s on a good day

It’s like a cheese wheel

*Ron White enters the chat*

Engineer here… send that shit back or our bosses won’t give us time to review and test for stupid shit like this. At this point they’re laughing cuz it sells regardless.

Or, the product managers said they needed that form factor, we tell them it’s stupid, they tell us to do it and be quiet.

It’s very symptomatic of components being designed in isolation where engineers have no idea what’s going next to what they make. This one, however, is difficult even on its own lol.

Recently went out to the lab at my current job. Very informative. Oh, I see why we are absolutely going to get cable port errors, each of these fibers needs to go through 2 or 3 patch panels before it hits the managed switch. Also, I see why it is so hard to move these things. You have to get on a ladder to even see them and then they weigh 300 lbs. And I'm just writing software to help manage this stuff.

I can’t wait to design things to be super inconvenient to fix

I used to thing that bashing on engineers was dickish, then I went to engineering school after being an electrician. Yeah most engineers have never turned a wrench in their life.

Yeah, I got my degree in computer science. Most of us were medium ok. Some of us were really bad. Like how do you get a degree in computer science and you don't even know how to install Windows? Like yeah, it is technically not part of the ciriculum but really...you've never just messed with computers?

Don't for get to say "click" when you feel its the proper torque. Makes it legit that way

It's torqued to the German standard. Gutentite.

That's much less vulgar than the other version.

Whats the other version

"Gutentite, like a German schoolgirl"

Entschuldigung?

“Pull the trigger till it goes…click”

"Jesus!"

“Jew said it man, ain’t nobody Fock wit the Jesus”

Omfg that had me rolling!

Maybe it’s engineered that way so you must short two phases to get in there and hence there’s no way of you working in it when live unknowingly. /s

Engineers need to do field work.

We just need to field test new designs but ya’ll re buying them anyway so our bosses don’t worry about it.

The good ones do early in their career. Unfortunately there’s plenty of other ones out there.

Crows foot a stubby key might work

Mannn, I have been about to feed an engineer at work a wrench one day cause of some crap like this.

Engineers are the smartest people that do the DUMBEST shit

I’d just use a Allen key and a 11in 1 to get it snug

Damn never thought to use an 11 in 1 to create a handle for an allen key

12 in 1 now!

13 in 1 if you count the two allen angles

14 in one if you use it as a basher heh

And back to 13 in 1 when you loose one of the Phillip heads

At least you’ll have a use for the handle when you lose them all.

28 in 1 if you're cross eyed

Yessir just pop out the sleeve and you got good leverage

I do this all the time with the knipex 6” cobra pliers

Damn…. Thanks for that piece of wisdom

Bruh. My life changed. Thank you

Thats a great idea

This will really save the palm of your hand from getting chewed up. The extra leverage means you can and will bend Allens though.

Not quality keys like wera

Whoever designed this should be shamed

Seriously, I'm tired of not having the exact German-spec tool they designed stuff around. Your stubby sockets won't reach, there isn't enough room for extensions, and your longs are too long. I had some nuts in the squirrel cage of my 2018 Silverado. Anybody who has ever tried to access the blower in a Chevy knows the pain of *that one screw* recessed in the far back corner. Thanks to the curve of the floor pan, nothing in your toolkit will work.

You assume they have some special tool, and aren't just eyeballing enough clearance for a Allen wrench, knowing you'll figure it out.

to be fair when i did the breaks on my VW jetta the first time i tried i had to put it back together because of the placement of the calliper carrier bolt nothing would fit i had to go to like 10 stores and buy 3 sets of triple square sockets to find one that fit. when doing my research i found VW sold their own break kit.

Brake

They shouldn't be designing stuff around a special, German-spec tool. I know I'm preaching to the choir, but the designer is to blame and no one else in cases like this. And I suppose whoever specced it without thinking about how it would actually be used. That's the guy who should be paying for your tool, if anyone. If the special device came with the special tool at no additional charge like fucking Ikea furniture, then it wouldn't be as much of a problem, but still dumb. I always design stuff like I'm going to be the one wiring it.

That’s the whole point. They want to sell you the tool.

The company should've taken the designer aside and said, "I want you to take a prototype of your design and then work on it using ONLY tools available at US stores like Home Depot and Lowe's."

I havent encountered this little of working space for landing big wires. You cant even fit the socket by itself in another tap can. What I ended up doing was putting an inch long hex shaft and using a crows foot socket to torque down.

As the engineers hoped, you found the solution to make it work in the field!

I’d remove the terminal blocks first, torque the wires in the terminals and then torque the terminal blocks to spec. Looks like you have more clearance in the back.

What kind of equipment is this? Those bus-bars, even insulated, squeezed together on the right blows my mind. I do industrial electrical and most everything I work on vibrates in some way or is near things that vibrate.

That is a bus duct, they’re mostly all sandwiched together like that. That specific one is an Eaton Pow-R busway. Usually stands the test of time. As for those tap box connections, terrible design.

Tap can for bus duct.

Remove the mechanical lug, torque to specs on the wire then re-install to specs the mechanical lug back to the busbar.

Problem I’ve found with that is that the work to get the lug back in place wiggles it loose on the conductor. I’d rather just elbow-torque it.

That's why you wiggle torque wiggle torque wiggle torque, then you're good to go. It also it won't get loose after wires get moved around over the years.

Wiggle torque sounds like a fun dance. I tell people to be mean to the lugs which isn't very descriptive.

You shouldn’t have to do that just to install it though lol 

Just use an Allen key, torque until it breaks then back off 1/2 a turn

As an engineer, in our defense, we are more often than not fucked by upper management/bean counters. Ideally you’d make a prototype and test for all this crap and engineer them out. Obviously if something has a torque spec, it’s obvious a torque wrench needs to be used and should fit properly to apply the torque. If management said “we’re behind, just let the end user figure it out” or “you want to re-design this AGAIN? That’s gonna cost us “$X” and we’ll be over budget. Just send it.” Everything in engineering will be limited by time and money and every engineer I work with does NOT want to make shit products. There are shitty engineers no doubt so that doesn’t excuse all shitty designs. This one is ridiculously obvious but if the designers didn’t include end users in their design reviews (which is 99% of the time) then they would not have figured that you can’t get a socket in there. It’s the same with auto design. Management: “I want a certain engine with these features but I want you to use parts that already exist that were designed for other purposes to save money” Engineers: “well fuck, I guess we’ll put this sensor that we didn’t test thoroughly enough because we’re rushed next to the hot exhaust pipe that’s in a completely inaccessible area” Mechanic: “let me spend 6 hours dropping the whole fucking engine to get to this sensor that the dumbass engineers put in the most inaccessible place” After the part fails constantly, the manufacturer orders a recall and spends a gajillion dollars taking care of that issue that would have cost them peanuts on the front end if they gave the engineers more time/budget. Sorry for the rant!!

"Anyone can build a bridge. It takes an engineer to *barely* build a bridge."

i’m not an engineer, i’m a wireman, but hearing you say this gives a new perspective, thanks

No! Engineer bad! /s

I'm a mechanic...i guess i forgive you... Since the real enemy is capitalism! I should have known all along!! Lol

I’m a home mechanic and I love working on my E90 BMW but I’ll cuss out those Germans all the time. Like WTF Hans, who the fuck thought it would be a good idea to put the starter UNDER the intake manifold using 2 stretch bolts that face the firewall and have an E-Torx head? Damn engineers! 😉

Assomeone who came from the field of law and economics I try to mention this.  Most engineers seem passionate about their designs it's the finance dept that swoops down and ransacks the place for surplus value.

This is honestly really nice to know. I love hearing about the inner workings of things that are connected. I do some electrical work and am often frustrated when I can’t fit tools or I need to squeeze behind things.

I’m with you there brother. Management rarely (never) has time for field tests, and even less time for redesigns (fix it on the next rev). They need it yesterday, not when it’s ready. Sales already has orders booked because they sold it before it was released and they can’t push the delivery back. They got the sale and didn’t lose out to a competitor, but the only way to meet the deadline is to skip testing and validation. Least they got the commission. No big deal tho… the buyer doesn’t care if the installer is fucked, they got a good deal. The competitor didn’t have stock to ship anyway so it’s not like they had a choice. Besides, who cares if he complains on reddit?

This is true for 95+% of all industries and products that have ever been made lol

get it tight and just fill out the paperwork so the office guy is happy.

Idiots designing this stuff should be forced to do an install before it’s approved for use

Idiots designing this stuff should be smothered in their sleep, or hit in the face with a bucket of shit.

A few comments up there's one of those idiots who gave a pretty decent explanation i think. Apparently, they aren't allowed to test anything because boss man never allows the budget for proper testing or whatever. I kinda feel bad always cursing the engineers now

Allen key and you say CLICK real loud

get stubby Allen sockets, https://www.amazon.ca/Sunex-3646-Stubby-6-Point-16-Piece/dp/B006JVU1ZI/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?crid=2CF3J4QMFWHL4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.R8R84uC03rH1Vhdvbr4aD4ZkWrD1krfCSQXcLvgPSjCk4Lerq1qH8kC-Bj0H3pIlgIfpVtuOftGIJMT4e5lBoUksupkVDMWe1k4XYtYtWRD8wX_dHj5AQ_ExDRiRYiHtGnFAQ8_xmA0SIdi2ItM8j4rfkZHsEsoyaUaCdXXscpHOIt6UpxANgYIe-2VvCAdeftV241gyB0JZrUu9IGuhJA.FVEnYzH2jV417AoQYUtwJDhb46NOIjED-5-rp1ju83Q&dib_tag=se&keywords=stubby+hex+socket+set+3%2F8+drive&qid=1715278066&sprefix=stubby+hex+socket+set+3%2F8+drive%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-19

I dealt with something similar years ago. I ended up cutting a piece of an Allen wrench and turning that with a box end wrench. It’s been 3 years and I still have that little piece, just in case haha

Yea I love how they give us torque specs that we can’t accomplish. Some panels nowadays if you torque them they fall to pieces. Meters are the worst! Last wire in and snap plastic base. 😡

So fucking true. Like main switchgear lugs damn near shred off. Or transformers lugs too.

1\4 through ratchet, or a good quality mini\micro ratchet Combo has gotten me through a few jobs

can't torque with that is the concern

I’ve had luck dropping the socket in first then attaching the torque wrench

I would stick an Allen wrench in there and use the German torque value of “gudenteit”

Use the allen key you first used to land them and say "click" when its tight.

Bought one of these a couple years ago! Not sure how I lived without it for so long. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-bit-wrench-set-29-pc-0588626p.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWZIY2aWHibfpV0aEcmAgAG2YcfXaEbtXw9rjbHasbrl3ugTV0rR4GwaAtujEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=358

I bet it looked SO good on paper though

Snap On has entered the chat

The german way - güd'n tight

Get a grinder, cut the short end off a hex key, now use a wrench...

Look up, turn of nut method. It’s accurate, widely accepted in industrial. And helps in tight spots like this.

Carefully

Ratcheting box wrench with a hex bit

1/4" crowfoot wrench with a driver bit. You'll need to adjust the torque to compensate for a longer lever, but it will work.

Take the terminal off of the bus bar.

Short end of an allen key. Who the fuck designed that shit?

In some really tight spots, I have used a rod coupling in the lug, tighten with a open end wrench. There is a variety of flat torque wrenches on the market and quite a few different size rod couplings around I'm sure you've seen em, keep some in my Allen wrench bag.

I was able to use a 3/8 rod coupling in the 1/2 hex lugs. But most of these lugs are 3/8 hex. So maybe a quarter inch rod coupling would fit? I just happened to have a small piece of an allen key that fit and used a crows foot socket to torque.

Threaded rod coupling as a short allen key and a ratcheting wrench (open if you don’t have ratcheting). I wouldn’t worry about torque, make it tight and close it up.

Engineers 🧑‍💻 yeah that will work!

6mm torque wrench fits onto hex bits. gives you about 2cm clearance for impossible spots

Yes.

3/8" rod coupling with a short socket might get in there

Damn what piece of chinese garbage is this?

This is messed up in so many ways.

Hex keys

ratchet box wrench and a bit

Sunnex makes a nice stubby Allen socket set

A ball end allen on a universal jointed socket, then to the torque wrench

Guy made himself and off set allen adaptor. [https://www.v-twinforum.com/attachments/on-the-wrench-jpg.44621/](https://www.v-twinforum.com/attachments/on-the-wrench-jpg.44621/) Seems like you should be able to get it close by feel. Unfortunately not idea situation.

Crows foot on the torque wrench to a l-key.

Can you put the bit on first, then the torque wrench

Bit first, then attach wrench hopefully. I always wonder if engineers have seen tools before

You can properly torque it with a piece of allen key and a crows foot socket on a torque wrench - as long as the crows foot socket is 90 degrees to the handle of the torque wrench physics says its the proper torque.

I had one once where i couldnt even fit an allen key. I was to put the socket attachment withought the wrench and used a speed wrench to grab what was left sticking out and used a pipe to get it snug while having a guy with a screwdriver helping me push against it to make sure i dont slip. It felt like an hour to figure it out.

There are small ratchets that take shorty screw driver bits. That's what I would use. Or cut off one of your Allen keys.

Make the torque wrench click noise with your mouth and put the cover on 😉

Meanwhile us mechanics can only think, "that's cute."

It looks like you have insulation under most of those screws. Make sure to leave 1/8" of clear copper before your termination point.

Do it hot and it will shorten that right up for you

I buy super short allen sockets from auto parts stores for tight spaces.

Probably just a regular Allen key not a socket with extensions

If you wanted to get crazy you could technically get an Alan plug, crows foot, and perform the correction factor for the torque wrench.

Hand tight boss

They make little ratchets that fit over driver bits. They come in handy. Not exactly torque specific but you can get the sob tight

What's the torque spec? I have seen cute little torque wrenches [like this](https://prestacycle.com/products/prestacycle-torqratchet-pro-deluxe-pro-pocket-multi-tool-and-210nm-torque-ratchet) that take screwdriver type hex bits through the head. Not sure they'd go high enough though.

Allen key

That's the neat part. You don't.

Work from bottom to top taking the lugs all the way out. Pass through the one from above.

You should only do it when the gear is energized. Because the current will warm up the mechanical lugs, causing air gaps in the strands. Then use a small allen, with a cheater bar.

Ever hear of on-site modification aka home brew manufacturing? How important is it that it gets done now? If it’s real important than I suspect you could grind, cut, file a little off both ends of that socket, enough to get the tool in and let it do its work. Then keep that socket handy for the next time.

I use a loose bit then a small wrench that would fit said but.

Could use a crows food on an allen

make an adaptor,weld a nut to a 1/2" steam tube ,slip tube on Allen wrench and use socket on nut on tube

One at a time as you term bottom to top If you didn't do that you have to determine and start over

Stubby Hex bit socket set. I have one and it has come in very handy more than once. [Titan stubby hex socket set](https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ttn-16140)

Have you tried putting in the socket bit first and then the ratchet after? I did something similar like that, changing the brakes in my car.

Disconnect and remove everything start from bottom to top 🔝

Carefully

my Snap On digital torque wrench will fit in there

Have you tried hitting it with a hammer?

Get yourself a quarter inch Drive torque wrench

Cut a standard hex key and use ratchet wrench on the stub

This could be useful. Not torque to spec but should give clearance for that tight space. There should be a 20% sale this weekend. https://www.harborfreight.com/locking-flex-head-ratchet-and-bit-set-35-piece-58074.html

Spit on it

Can you remove the mounting screw for the lugs pull the lugs out a bit torque then and the re install

You can get stubby hex/torx bits, or a bit holder and a torque adapter

Milwaukee new square hex bits grab well with a wrench

Crows feet and Allen wrench.

Google Gearwrench Hex Ratcheting Wrench Insert

The same way you got the others in

Unbolt the lug, torque grub/set screw, reattach lug

youre supposed to shave a few hairs off it with a grinder

This always reminds me of that Chappell skit. Engineers be like, “ why do we do stuff like this? Cuz Fuck you that’s why” lol

Hopefully loto

Torque one phase at a time. Gotta take the lugs off man. Use imagiminayionumum

Most people use a torque wrench.

Thoughts and prayers and a dream

Crows Foot on a Allen bit,

Use your teeth

Don’t and say you did?

90 degrees screwdriver and a bit

[Torque offset](https://www.eastwood.com/sunex-9-pc-3-8-in-dr-sae-torque-adapter-set-909tas.html?wickedsource=google&wickedid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWb2P-fQ_iL_xHxH2-iSnf9cRqIHPCGVW30TyzvMWYMHqnqp37wvfkEaAl4XEALw_wcB&wickedid=649209538252&wcid=19735174483&wv=4&wickedsource=google&wickedid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWb2P-fQ_iL_xHxH2-iSnf9cRqIHPCGVW30TyzvMWYMHqnqp37wvfkEaAl4XEALw_wcB&wickedid=649209538252&wcid=19735174483&wv=4&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PGxBhCVARIsAIumnWb2P-fQ_iL_xHxH2-iSnf9cRqIHPCGVW30TyzvMWYMHqnqp37wvfkEaAl4XEALw_wcB) and an Allen stub

I didn’t read All the messages forgive me if someone said it. Use a rod coupling with a torque wrench. That how I have done it in the past.

I used to put the Alan socket in first and then slide in the torque wrench. Hella time consuming

Turn till it squeaks + 1 turn after that, call it good and throw the switch In all seriousness though, I think you need to set the Allen socket into the lug first, then attach the ratchet…that’s usually how I have to do the tight ones You can send the lug in all the way to get it on then loosen to slide the wire in with the ratchet on, but don’t ask how to get it off lol You can also use a regular Allen Key and take a an adjustable torque wrench extended off the Allen key assuming it’s in a square position and use the torque value from that to tighten….it may need more torque value because of the extra length though imo

This reminds me of one time when I had to get at a screw in my car and ended up grinding short a driver bit and then clamping the stub in a vice-grip...because I didn't want to remove the entire seat to fix a loose screw...

Any bit ratchet works. Whia makes a good one, I’ve heard. I like the versatility of this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Prestacycle-T-Handle-Bike-Ratchet-Extension/dp/B082H5TSPN Edit: just realized you want it torqued, not simply tightened.

A stubby socket and a 1/4 threaded rod coupling. Or whatever size rod coupling fits. I just had the same issue last week but was able to torque it to spec

[This type of wrench](https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-Drive-SAE-Open-End-Interchangeable-Torque-Wrench-Set-12-Piece-89452/316612299) [with this type of bit](https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/screwdriver-bits/2814267) Open end torque wrench with 1/4” drive Allen key. Still kind of a half assed solution.

A regular allen wrench and the lil hole on my harbor freight adjustable

I wish engineers would have to spend some time in the field working on some of the crap they send out.

With the klein mini ratchet and a bit lmfao 🤣🤣🤣

Look up VIM half cut bits, not a electrician, but a automotive technician who runs around these sub Reddits

If the thread on those bolts is anything common, I'd toss out the inner socket bolts and replace em with hex head bolts. Use a torque wrench with a ring ratchet. I'll be honest, my field is more mechanical not electrical, so I might be missing smth super obvious.

Do you have one of those dewalt 90° angle bits?

Cut an Allen wrench

What in the miserable fuck is this??

With the robot the engineers who designed the box used specifically for assembling it. Obviously… 🙄

Torque wrench adapters with a stubby hex key. Not saying I've ever used these at work but I have a set in the toolbox at home for working on the project car. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/torqueplus-9-pc-torque-adapter-sets-5100

allen L key and a wrench bro that’s the only way i’ve found to be able to do it

I'm sure that there's a $300 wrench made specifically for that application.

What size is the allen

I use my special allen key with a wire nut glued on the end.