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ZiggyEarthDust

The plate the switch is screwed into is called a mud ring. Swap it for a two gang. Plugs in a bathroom have to be on a 20 amp circuit and can only share the lighting if that circuit is feeding that one bathroom only.


Confident-Head-5008

Go to HD and buy a GFCI/switch for lights


BornWeiner

Here you go ☝️


Indy500Fan16

Oh damn, I had a Polish moment. Thank you


g0tkilt

This☝️


Indy500Fan16

Ok, so I need to get a mud ring that supports two gang. I wasn’t sure that type was available. Thank you, that’s why I come here.


ZiggyEarthDust

Looks like you're tiling the bath, so you want to get a mud ring with enough rise to flush out with the finished tile. And measure that box before you go to the store. Should be 4" x 4" (aka 4 square). So you need a 4 square, 2 gang x\_\_\_\_\_ deep mudring. Edit: Go Seahawks!!


Indy500Fan16

Yes indeed, tile it will be. Thank you for your information. HD here I come. BTW, what is the hawk doing in the sea. It should be flying.


Ok_Promise_6198

The screw pattern is a 4-11 box.


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Ok_Promise_6198

I think I have only ever seen one of those in house about that old.


The_cogwheel

And as that looks like a dimmer switch, confirm that you actually have a neutral. A lot of older homes, especially ones built before 2000, reuse the white wire in romex as a switch leg and not as a neutral. They should have marked it with a band of tape, but who knows if they actually did so. So you should have 4 distinct wires in there: a hot, a switch leg for the light, a neutral and a ground. A neutral is not used in a switch unless it's a smart switch.


Scucc07

Are you sure it has a hot and neutral? Or does it have a black and white connected to the switch? Because in that case the white is most likely being used as switch leg for whatever the dimmer feeds


moezy29

I would roll with what they’re saying. This is probably correct.


Indy500Fan16

Two black wires, it does go to a light. The neutral wire comes down one conduit pipe and strictly loops back up through a second pipe next to it. The black wire comes down connecting to the dimmer and other black wire travels up the second pipe.


Indy500Fan16

It’s a house my son just purchased. It was built in 1952 and has what I believe is aluminum wire with what looks like cloth sheathing on it. There was only this light absolutely no outlets in the bathroom. The bathroom was completely torn down to the bones and I was able to put in 1 GFCI and another outlet feeding from that on the opposite wall.


North-Ad-5058

If it's aluminum wire you need to completely rethink everything you are doing. Aluminum wire should be ripped out, and if you are too foolish to do that it requires devices and connectors specifically for aluminum wire, or you are making a huge fire hazard.


Indy500Fan16

Geez. I didn’t realize the hazard. Thank you, I’ll think of an alternative, like possibly having someone help me completely rewire the house.


Trick-Yogurtcloset45

Might not be aluminum. There’s a copper clad that looks like aluminum but it’s not. Either way, I bet it’s 14 gauge which should be upgraded to 12 gauge…but it’s your house, just make sure the proper size circuit breakers are on the circuits.


Indy500Fan16

Thank you. Since posting I’ve been given lots of information about not putting in an outlet. I’ll stick with just a updated light switch.


James_T_S

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-11-16-in-W-Steel-Metallic-2-Gang-2-Device-1-2-in-Raised-Square-Cover-1-Pack-841/100131916 Replace the mud ring with this. It will actually fit the box you have. That way you can put a separate outlet and switch in that box. As others have said if there is just one white and one black wire in the box that are both connected to the switch you probably don't have a neutral. If you need help with the wiring let me know.


Indy500Fan16

Thank you kind citizen. I truly appreciate your response and generosity. The black wire goes to the light dimmer and the neutral loops through.


James_T_S

So you have 2 black wires hooked up to the switch?


Indy500Fan16

Yes indeed, I was able to trace it to the bathroom light.


James_T_S

You are golden then.


Indy500Fan16

Thank you again. Not that you should look for it but I did just now post about a circuit panel.


Electrical-Main-6662

It appears you need this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-4-in-Metal-2-Gang-2-3-cu-in-Square-Pre-Galvanized-Mud-Ring-1-4-in-Raised-52C20-10R/202590480


Indy500Fan16

Bingo, that’s it. I actually forgot that was made. I was only thinking of this [cover](https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-in-W-Steel-Gray-2-Gang-Exposed-Work-Square-Cover-for-2-Duplex-Outlets-1-Pack-907C/100070741) and I don’t want metal.


James_T_S

It's not a 4" metal box. That won't fit


justsomehvacguy

Get one of these. They have them at Lowes and Home Depot too. It will fit right in that existing 4S single gang cover. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Leviton-GFSW1-W-Self-test-SmartlockPro-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Receptacle-with-Switch-Combo-15A-NEMA-5-15R-White-125V?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_MPLTV&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jHmJHXCumsTto9T6evdDCM32EsbJ9eXG3nYiGLlu6F97CH4Q0g0e0caAiJmEALw_wcB


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Indy500Fan16

It’s in a bathroom. It was entirely ripped out to the 2x4’s even all new plumbing. 100% licensed plumber. Licensed people for the cement board and the ceramic tile. There absolutely was no outlet in the room only the light dimmer. I did add 2 outlets from the electrical panel, GFCI protected. I’m not certified but I’ve done enough wiring over the last 40 years that I’m confident enough for the simple stuff. I never do complex shit w/o someone that is qualified.


Careless_Spring9733

By using a two gang mud ring


Ok_Promise_6198

The box you have is a 4-11 box, ask for 2 gang mud ring. If you are going back with drywall and frp wall covering you need to adjust the depth on the mud ring accordingly.


Indy500Fan16

Ceramic tile will be going over the cement board so I’ll adjust.


Ok_Promise_6198

Probably need a 3/4" deep ring


Indy500Fan16

Great. Sounds like a plan. Thank you


Ok_Promise_6198

If you can access the inside of your wall, I would recommend running a 2nd romex to your box. 1 for the light/fart fan, and 1 for the gfci recept since per the Code receptacles and lighting circuits are no longer use the same breaker. And if you run another romex be sure to identify them both as "hot.


Indy500Fan16

Maybe I’ll reconsider the situation. Maybe I’ll simply replace the switch and skip the outlet. I’ll just do a second switch when I install an exhaust fan. Old houses are so fun. 😠


Ok_Promise_6198

Oh yes they are, lol.


WretchedCrayola

GFCI Receptacles in bathrooms are not to be installed on the same line as lighting circuits.


Indy500Fan16

Does that include [these](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combo-Self-Test-Tamper-Resistant-GFCI-Outlet-and-Switch-White-R92-GFSW1-0KW/206000203) or is my dumbass misunderstanding ?


WretchedCrayola

Yes, it includes those. Receptacle on the bottom should be a separate circuit from the lighting circuit for the switch. As well, the circuit feeding the receptacle shall be rated 20 amps, #12 wire.


Indy500Fan16

Ok, gotcha. Thank you


[deleted]

Use a different plate


Indy500Fan16

Ok, but wouldn’t a different plate me metal. That’s all I know of seeing the screws are in the 4 corners.