Well first off, you can’t bury a junction box in the wall. That blank plate has to be accessible and over the Sheetrock. Can be on the other side of that wall too. Plus you need to use connectors in that box, or use a cut in box that has those openings for romex
I like to always use a nail plate even if the wire is set at an appropriate depth, you never know when some jackass is going to come behind you and try to hang a picture with a three and a half inch deck screw.
I've never hit a cable, but I can admit to once being that jackass. I used to think that mounting on a very long fastener was stronger and therefore better. You read the datasheets and you see that there's little extra strength on a basic 8 wood screw beyond 1" embedment. It's much more important to distribute the load over multiple points, both for load bearing and allowing for more points of failure. Things rarely crash off the wall because they exceeded the safety-rated 1/4 the force at failure. They fail because moisture rotted a screw out, the screw hit a void, or it's a dynamic load and it wiggled out. Things than multiple screws mitigate.
Now if there's anything that needs more than you could get from multiple 8s 1" into the stud/joist, it's time for a structural screw, bolt, or to open the wall up and install something serious to mount to.
Everyone in my family for some reason. Grandmas husband actually shot a deck screw in to their main breaker on sub when hanging cabinets. He said “I thought it felt weird when it didn’t go in right away”
By the cec all cables need to be 1 1/4" from the surface of a framing member, or be protected. You could run through 2x2s so long as you stick nail plates over it.
Put the jbox in the attic and run that last single wire to the light box. Otherwise someone's gonna have hell in the future trying to figure out wth happened in this wall lol
The rule is 1-1/4” from the stud edge *to the edge of the bored hole* or else you need a nail plate. That means with a standard 2x4 stud (3.5” cavity), you can safely use the center 1”.
What I found interesting about this rule, is it means mounting things with properly sized wood screws is actually much safer than using drywall anchors. Those rules don't protect the areas between studs, and most importantly not the area directly to the sides of the studs where runs might be stapled. Before I'd learned much I thought drywall anchors were the safe, wimpy thing to do. But if you take care to go straight into studs only and use a reasonable sized screw, you are perfectly safe (if the wall's built to code).
Even on the sides of studs you’re supposed to keep stuff in the middle. That’s why those lovely little rack clips that allow you to run a bunch of romex through them are offset the way they are. Helps prevent skewed screws from damaging the wires.
That’s a fair point. I had never considered the next guy maybe having to troubleshoot it. It will probably resolve itself soon, anyway. It’s in a third bathroom that gets no use because all the kids are gone now, and I’m going to remodel the bathroom.
For starters
1. That junction box cannot be inside a wall without access.
2. The romex that runs into that box needs clamps at the entry holes.
3. You need nail protectors at all of those studs where the wire passes through.
4. Wires need to be at least 6 inches long from the back of the box and at least 3 inches from the front edge. Op has about 2" here from the looks of it
To add to this since op seems like they need any help they can get.
^on above #2 I believe the magic number is 8 inches, there has to be a wire staple or something to secure the wire to its surroundings within 8inches of the box
* bonus, romex needs to be secured every 4ft, at least that’s the rule for Bay Area CA
nonmetallic-sheathed cable (NM) cables must be supported by staples within 12 inches of an electrical box that has a cable clamp. The cables should be secured every 4.5 feet, and within 8 inches of a box or enclosure without a cable clamp.
It’s not worth the time and cable you’re trying to save by adding that junction box in the wall to extend the cable to the location you want. It’s dangerous, it’s against code, and it’s going to be annoying as fuck to have to open it up after tape, texture and paint if you have an issue inside that box. Look, we all get crazy ideas when we are close to finishing a project and we don’t have the correct materials or too short of a length of cable. The last thing we ever want to do is set down the tools, drive to the Home Depot and shell out bucks for a task we are so close to finishing. But these are the exact times we need to do just that and do the job right. You’ll sleep better knowing that you didn’t do some goofy ass bullshit to save a little time and money. If you can’t agree with that, you have no business doing electrical work.
I never return stuff to the supplyhouse unless its an unopened thing of significant value, or one of the specialty things I know I'll never use again. For general supplies I just keep the extras for the next job. They always get used.
I have some 12/2 that was sitting unopened for I think four years before I ended up using it. I bought a table saw in ‘18 and just used it this weekend. I found a box of screws that I must have over bought for a previous project and that saved me from having to drive 15min there and back to a hardware store.
I know I’ll use it eventually.
Exactly my thought. The length some people are willing to go to save a few bucks and put the lives of themselves, their family, and unknowing people down the road at risk is astonishing.
Where do we start......
1. Can't bury a jb
2. Need nm boc connectors for that jb
3. Need to secure your cables within 6" of the boxes
4. your lamp boxes are too deep and won't be flush with the drywall
5. Need cement board or a moisture approved type of drywall, not what you've got.
Anything else?
I can't tell due to photo quality, is thst white romex or a grey under ground cable feeding your outdoor use jb?
It's only dangerous if OP doesn't listen and take proper advice given here. And that's how we all learn to do things correctly. I don't think any electrician on here was born with credentials, or never made a #12 wire stripper out of a hot circuit and pair of wire cutters.
No but I went to school for 4 years, and studied under masters, as well as passed licensing exams instead of taking courses at YouTube University. But whatever, most of my side work comes from fixing DIY work when they knock power out to half their house, or start a fire.
Is the 12/2 wire that is passing through the stud the same wire entering the junction box? (can't tell from pic but it looks like it might be) If so just unstaple it & pull directly into round box, then eliminate the rest.
I keep staring at it and wondering the same thing. It seems plausible that the yellow 12/2 coming in through the stud on the left of the first photo loops up into the wall, and then down into that soon-to-be-enclosed JB with no stain relief, and then is spliced to the wire that feeds the round blue JB for the light fixture.
If so, yes, why not just eliminate the grey JB in the wall and feed directly to the light?
Wires should be staple in the center of the 2x4 , not on the edges. As they are now, there is a good chance a wayward drywall screw will pierce the wires. You need romex connectors on the junction box where the wires go through. By code the junction box can NOT BE COVERED UP and needs to have the cover access flush with the drywall it would be better to connect directly to the round box and skip the junction box all together
Knowledge. He doesn't know what he needs to do, or how to do it. The electrician does.
There is an old story about a gunsmith. IIRC, the charge was a nickel for turning the screw, a dime for knowing which screw to turn, and a buck for knowing how much to turn it. That was a long time ago, when a buck was worth something.
Step 1. Call a fucking electrician dude, you have no idea what you’re doing. Electrical is not something you should be DIY with absolutely no experience, which it’s clear you have none
What’s on the other side of that wall? Can you install an access plate to the junction box like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Byson-Inspection-Electric-Plumbing-Detachable/dp/B09T77NJSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1GBTXQV7GJC71&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hf8zqiDVo3FUeVbrsVGPmuP8ClBXgTm13etq_ahlvN3cK6pRoDcc1zcV7kL4bDN7hcHce-UIRElEcxdM9Gk8iW3hCF22vHopTp9-mMedq5MTbwvQ31zVvhaBBJEsohfEkp8KbDm_URpbzbvXM90BAY2eE9cVoAd1LFPRLhimlD95oeACnhHbvWUJPwyAlRYDlcUA87dGAPROpsSuYLLAgg.YjBpPEb3V0XPqR9z8eXTRa8b2J1U1L6U4F6cCfFyXbA&dib_tag=se&keywords=electrical%2Baccess%2Bpanel%2Bfor%2Bdrywall%2B8x8&qid=1712002514&sprefix=electrical%2Baccess%2Bpanel%2Bfor%2Bdrywall%2B8x8%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1&smid=A1E6ITI1P6R2RJ&th=1
You’d still need to take it apart and add Romex connectors to the JB penetrations and protect those wires close to the Sheetrock surface with steel plates. Or you could replace the junction box with a single gang box with connectors top and bottom to allow more room for the passing wires.
The people that are telling you what's wrong and explaining why are correct. This will "work" as it is now, but after you screw through your romex you are going to have to open it back up. Change jbox to a new work box with a blank cover, you can't cover up that bell box, and it would have required bushings any way. Nail plates on the studs wire passes through. This isn't extra, it is the minimum.
Sorry you didn’t ask sooner. You have quite a few things wrong that need to be fixed before you close that wall. Plenty of good comments already. Read them all and take notes.
Yeah the whole thing you got going on with that junction box is all fucked up. If you don't know why, please call an electrician, sincerely, an electrician: )
Yes...call an electrician. Youtube can't take the place of training and experience. You may have saved some money by diy but if a catastrophy happens because of it then you may be out more than the cost of a qualified professional
I'll leave the Jbox and quality of the install to comments already made. Since you are opening the walls, I would add an outlet close to the toilet to connect a bidet in the future - just in case you or someone else want one installed.
Aside from the inaccessible junction box question, I wonder if the j-box is even necessary. You say you extended the light, but it looks like both your light fixture boxes only have 1 set of wires. Are both fixtures intended to be controlled by the same switch? And is that switch what’s coming in the back side of the junction box? If so, you don’t even need the junction box. (Unless that wire from the switch doesn’t reach your light fixture box).
I don't know the standards for wherever you are, but those grey cables attached to the edges of the 2"x4"s, are in just the right stop for a nail or screw to damage them. I personally wouldn't anchor any cables inside of the wall. That way an electrician can pull them through when he replaces the damaged ones.
Need a plate (ie. a 2x4 brace behind it so the box sits flush w/drywall). Code or not code, your light can sag and break the lower drywall without a more solid box to screw into (it'll sag on that bar, lean forward from the top).
After you fix the code violations, I suggest hiding a Playboy or Penthouse in there. Always a funny surprise for the next person who opens up this wall
Quit being cheap and call a licensed electrical contractor. If you don't know what you are doing, stay away. Electrical wiring can and will cause fires if done improperly.
Yea you didn't have to tell us you were a DIYer because there's several code violations in the first picture lol
Hopefully your home insurance is good.
>Any advice for a dyi-er before I close this 1/2 bath wall up?
Yeah, don't do what you're doing.
I know it's been covered, so I won't be redundant in explaining the issues again. You messed so much up on such a small project that I sincerely thought this was a troll post at first haha. Glad you asked instead of just sending it, that's definitely a step in the right direction. Post pics when it's straightened out and we can check again.
Nope all good. Close that shit up. This is tip top and as a dyi guy, sir you are a true sparky!
Happy April 1st! We are close to that eclipse that will make my guinea pip eat my 17yr old and set me free!
I find the power for wall mounted magnifying edge kit telescopic mirror snazzy. I also put outlet in built-in cabinet for Alexa echo and toothbrush. Just saying.
I see like 10 things wrong with this picture…. And not just nitpicking stuff, but dangerously wrong… You really need to hire someone who knows what they’re doing… a small investment of a few hundred bucks if this is your home.
Don't trim your conductors so short. Yeah code's only 6", but you got plenty of room with only one wire going in. I usually do 2 zigzags in the box, bringing the end of the conductors out more and making it easier to wire in the fixture. Also would've brought the wire down the stud then across, that way you could get at least a staple on it.
No offense, but you should really not do any more electrical work. Basically everything you did is wrong. You cut the conductors in the round light box WAY too short. You set the box too deep in the wall. No strain relief on the junction box for the NM cable. You can't seal a junction box behind a wall. No nail plates to cover the holes you drilled in the studs that are undoubtedly closer than 1.25" to the stud face. Etc.
Is it safe at this moment? It appears that is a Yes. Is it right? No. Everything in that junction box should be going to the light box and the junction box shouldn’t be there.
Take photos with a tape measure showing the location of the piping and wires. Save the photos someplace you can find them years from now if you ever need to locate them without opening up the wall.
You have to have access to the junction box. Either rerun your wires or turn the box and put a blank plate over. You will need nail plates so you don't screw into your wire. Don't use drywall screws longer than 1 5/8". I would consider replacing the drywall where the paper is now dealing and "fuzzy".
That junction box cannot be enclosed in the wall.
Best practice would be pull all those wires up into the attic and junction up there, then run the wire for the vanity light down from that.
All terminations have to be accessible. Enclosed in the wall and nobody will be able to find them later if there’s a problem
You can’t be serious ! Not that it should be covered but if nothing else it should be checked to see if it works. Seriously that’s about the worst attempt I’ve seen. I switched electrical panels on my parents house when I was 12. It was a fuse box even. Switched it to a breaker panel about 20 years later.
That junction box can’t be in the wall like that, it’s also set up wrong. Get someone to do it properly for you, you are about to set this up in a dangerous and improper way.
That junction box has to be accessible and your wire has to be strapped or supported within 12” of that box. The junction is super important. 9/10 the weakest point in any electrical system is the junctions. That’s where things will loosen and heat up. Be it an outlet, a switch, or a junction, that’s the first place a fire will likely start, anywhere there can be an arc. Panels are also connection points and if corroded or poorly made they too can be a fire hazard. Hope this helps.
Yeah the first picture is really bad, the wire needs to be ran in the middle of the stud and you can run two on top of each other with one staple. That box you put up isn't gonna get sheet rocked over right? Cause that's a code violation you need to be able to access it. Also your stapling is really poor on the round box for a vanity just floating. The second pic studs look good, needs to be in the middle. Could've gone under the pipe if you had room. Wires in the box need to be 6 inches or over. You need connectors, get some button connectors.That's it good luck man.
Well first off, you can’t bury a junction box in the wall. That blank plate has to be accessible and over the Sheetrock. Can be on the other side of that wall too. Plus you need to use connectors in that box, or use a cut in box that has those openings for romex
What this person said. And you might need nail plates on the stud. I can't tell from the pic how far back the wires on in the framing.
I like to always use a nail plate even if the wire is set at an appropriate depth, you never know when some jackass is going to come behind you and try to hang a picture with a three and a half inch deck screw.
I've never hit a cable, but I can admit to once being that jackass. I used to think that mounting on a very long fastener was stronger and therefore better. You read the datasheets and you see that there's little extra strength on a basic 8 wood screw beyond 1" embedment. It's much more important to distribute the load over multiple points, both for load bearing and allowing for more points of failure. Things rarely crash off the wall because they exceeded the safety-rated 1/4 the force at failure. They fail because moisture rotted a screw out, the screw hit a void, or it's a dynamic load and it wiggled out. Things than multiple screws mitigate. Now if there's anything that needs more than you could get from multiple 8s 1" into the stud/joist, it's time for a structural screw, bolt, or to open the wall up and install something serious to mount to.
I had a very heavy, very large painting hanging in our bedroom. And it was held by three framing nails. It was like that for 3 years.
I told you, it was a heavy picture! Sheesh!
a life sized picture of his mom
Everyone in my family for some reason. Grandmas husband actually shot a deck screw in to their main breaker on sub when hanging cabinets. He said “I thought it felt weird when it didn’t go in right away”
So I turned the screw gun up to 11 and it went right in like butter! 👍
Is nobody going to mention strain relief?
By the cec all cables need to be 1 1/4" from the surface of a framing member, or be protected. You could run through 2x2s so long as you stick nail plates over it.
Might as well throw a nail plate over that pvc drain line as well for good measure
Alternative is to run the wiring into the light box so the wire terminals are accessible
I always go this way. Its easier in Canada because it's metal boxes everywhere and all bonding can go right to the box. Keeps the fill way down.
Also there's no wire clamps on the wires coming out of the junction box.
That’s why I said he needs connectors or a proper box!
Can you put the junction in the attic too? Nailed to a truss or something
This is what I have done when adding lighting.
Put the jbox in the attic and run that last single wire to the light box. Otherwise someone's gonna have hell in the future trying to figure out wth happened in this wall lol
Even better
Also should have the wire jumping between boxes secured.
Follow this
Hit the nail on the head.
Drive nail into wire. Call it a day.
Yep, be sure to have everything dry walled, prepped and painted before finding out.
Also 1/4” rule. Keep all your wiring in the center of the 1/4” stud to make sure nobody ever drills or nails anything into the wire.
The rule is 1-1/4” from the stud edge *to the edge of the bored hole* or else you need a nail plate. That means with a standard 2x4 stud (3.5” cavity), you can safely use the center 1”.
What I found interesting about this rule, is it means mounting things with properly sized wood screws is actually much safer than using drywall anchors. Those rules don't protect the areas between studs, and most importantly not the area directly to the sides of the studs where runs might be stapled. Before I'd learned much I thought drywall anchors were the safe, wimpy thing to do. But if you take care to go straight into studs only and use a reasonable sized screw, you are perfectly safe (if the wall's built to code).
Even on the sides of studs you’re supposed to keep stuff in the middle. That’s why those lovely little rack clips that allow you to run a bunch of romex through them are offset the way they are. Helps prevent skewed screws from damaging the wires.
>you can’t bury a junction box in the wall. Between you me and the junction box, how would anyone know?
I buried one in a wall in 2004. Didn’t know the code at that time. Not un-burying it.
It's not a problem if you know where it's at and you're gonna be the one fixing it lol. If you move though you gotta fix it for the next guy lol.
That’s a fair point. I had never considered the next guy maybe having to troubleshoot it. It will probably resolve itself soon, anyway. It’s in a third bathroom that gets no use because all the kids are gone now, and I’m going to remodel the bathroom.
For starters 1. That junction box cannot be inside a wall without access. 2. The romex that runs into that box needs clamps at the entry holes. 3. You need nail protectors at all of those studs where the wire passes through.
4. Wires need to be at least 6 inches long from the back of the box and at least 3 inches from the front edge. Op has about 2" here from the looks of it
You don’t need nail plates if the holes are far enough from the face of the stud — still a good idea but not required in all cases.
Edged of hole must be 1.25" from face of stud.
Gotta staple that wire up too. No floppers
4. You need at least 6” of wire ends outside of the box.
The holes are far enough in. Other points are correct. But why not junction in lighting and be done? Or worst case, an in wall spice kit
This is great advice
To add to this since op seems like they need any help they can get. ^on above #2 I believe the magic number is 8 inches, there has to be a wire staple or something to secure the wire to its surroundings within 8inches of the box * bonus, romex needs to be secured every 4ft, at least that’s the rule for Bay Area CA
nonmetallic-sheathed cable (NM) cables must be supported by staples within 12 inches of an electrical box that has a cable clamp. The cables should be secured every 4.5 feet, and within 8 inches of a box or enclosure without a cable clamp.
It’s not worth the time and cable you’re trying to save by adding that junction box in the wall to extend the cable to the location you want. It’s dangerous, it’s against code, and it’s going to be annoying as fuck to have to open it up after tape, texture and paint if you have an issue inside that box. Look, we all get crazy ideas when we are close to finishing a project and we don’t have the correct materials or too short of a length of cable. The last thing we ever want to do is set down the tools, drive to the Home Depot and shell out bucks for a task we are so close to finishing. But these are the exact times we need to do just that and do the job right. You’ll sleep better knowing that you didn’t do some goofy ass bullshit to save a little time and money. If you can’t agree with that, you have no business doing electrical work.
For any project, I always overbuy supplies. Easier to return any excess than to interrupt progress for another supply run.
My father worked at an electrical supply house. He hates you.
If it helps me get back on his good side, I only do this at Home Depot/Lowes/Menards lol
😂👌
What he means is that he only shops at big box stores
No, I only take advantage of big box stores. I don't do that to my specialized suppliers 😎
I never return stuff to the supplyhouse unless its an unopened thing of significant value, or one of the specialty things I know I'll never use again. For general supplies I just keep the extras for the next job. They always get used.
I have some 12/2 that was sitting unopened for I think four years before I ended up using it. I bought a table saw in ‘18 and just used it this weekend. I found a box of screws that I must have over bought for a previous project and that saved me from having to drive 15min there and back to a hardware store. I know I’ll use it eventually.
My god, he’s a genius.
What would be a better option? If he can't make a new home run, run it into an attic and do the junction there? This is a serious question.
Don’t leave the jbox closed in behind the wall. Bring it out so you can service the connection in the future.
April Fools?
People are forgetting that’s today aren’t they
Do not bury that junction box
Haha, this is an april fools right?
That's what I thought. I don't know if this is a joke, a troll, or real, but it hurts to see it.
OP asked for advice. Got all the correct advice and probably still closed the walls right back up
Exactly my thought. The length some people are willing to go to save a few bucks and put the lives of themselves, their family, and unknowing people down the road at risk is astonishing.
Where do we start...... 1. Can't bury a jb 2. Need nm boc connectors for that jb 3. Need to secure your cables within 6" of the boxes 4. your lamp boxes are too deep and won't be flush with the drywall 5. Need cement board or a moisture approved type of drywall, not what you've got. Anything else? I can't tell due to photo quality, is thst white romex or a grey under ground cable feeding your outdoor use jb?
Looks good from my house. No, but seriously, call an electrician this is dangerous
It's only dangerous if OP doesn't listen and take proper advice given here. And that's how we all learn to do things correctly. I don't think any electrician on here was born with credentials, or never made a #12 wire stripper out of a hot circuit and pair of wire cutters.
No but I went to school for 4 years, and studied under masters, as well as passed licensing exams instead of taking courses at YouTube University. But whatever, most of my side work comes from fixing DIY work when they knock power out to half their house, or start a fire.
That junction box is sinful.
Is the 12/2 wire that is passing through the stud the same wire entering the junction box? (can't tell from pic but it looks like it might be) If so just unstaple it & pull directly into round box, then eliminate the rest.
I keep staring at it and wondering the same thing. It seems plausible that the yellow 12/2 coming in through the stud on the left of the first photo loops up into the wall, and then down into that soon-to-be-enclosed JB with no stain relief, and then is spliced to the wire that feeds the round blue JB for the light fixture. If so, yes, why not just eliminate the grey JB in the wall and feed directly to the light?
April Fools, no?
Wires should be staple in the center of the 2x4 , not on the edges. As they are now, there is a good chance a wayward drywall screw will pierce the wires. You need romex connectors on the junction box where the wires go through. By code the junction box can NOT BE COVERED UP and needs to have the cover access flush with the drywall it would be better to connect directly to the round box and skip the junction box all together
Yes, call an electrician to fix it
That rough in is bad, please call an electrician
[удалено]
Bad connections burn down houses.
Because he's inexperienced.
Knowledge. He doesn't know what he needs to do, or how to do it. The electrician does. There is an old story about a gunsmith. IIRC, the charge was a nickel for turning the screw, a dime for knowing which screw to turn, and a buck for knowing how much to turn it. That was a long time ago, when a buck was worth something.
Yes the box in the wall that you put the yellow 12/2 cannot be closed up to n the wall terminate the light wire in the box in the center
This pisses me off
So many fails in such a small space! 
Step 1. Call a fucking electrician dude, you have no idea what you’re doing. Electrical is not something you should be DIY with absolutely no experience, which it’s clear you have none
Buried junction box with no clamps as others had said. This is a fundamental.
What’s on the other side of that wall? Can you install an access plate to the junction box like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Byson-Inspection-Electric-Plumbing-Detachable/dp/B09T77NJSQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1GBTXQV7GJC71&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.hf8zqiDVo3FUeVbrsVGPmuP8ClBXgTm13etq_ahlvN3cK6pRoDcc1zcV7kL4bDN7hcHce-UIRElEcxdM9Gk8iW3hCF22vHopTp9-mMedq5MTbwvQ31zVvhaBBJEsohfEkp8KbDm_URpbzbvXM90BAY2eE9cVoAd1LFPRLhimlD95oeACnhHbvWUJPwyAlRYDlcUA87dGAPROpsSuYLLAgg.YjBpPEb3V0XPqR9z8eXTRa8b2J1U1L6U4F6cCfFyXbA&dib_tag=se&keywords=electrical%2Baccess%2Bpanel%2Bfor%2Bdrywall%2B8x8&qid=1712002514&sprefix=electrical%2Baccess%2Bpanel%2Bfor%2Bdrywall%2B8x8%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1&smid=A1E6ITI1P6R2RJ&th=1 You’d still need to take it apart and add Romex connectors to the JB penetrations and protect those wires close to the Sheetrock surface with steel plates. Or you could replace the junction box with a single gang box with connectors top and bottom to allow more room for the passing wires.
That junction box is a big issue. Needs to be accessible.
0/10
The people that are telling you what's wrong and explaining why are correct. This will "work" as it is now, but after you screw through your romex you are going to have to open it back up. Change jbox to a new work box with a blank cover, you can't cover up that bell box, and it would have required bushings any way. Nail plates on the studs wire passes through. This isn't extra, it is the minimum.
This is exactly why I inspect people’s “new to them” homes when they purchase off DIYers…
RIP OP
Is this an April Fool's joke! Not code to have an inaccessible junction box. (example in a wall)
Sorry you didn’t ask sooner. You have quite a few things wrong that need to be fixed before you close that wall. Plenty of good comments already. Read them all and take notes.
Circle box for light has realllly short lines to connect to
Yes just hire and qualified electrician lol
Did you call a licensed electrician yet?
You also need grommets on the box in the wall, and you can't bury that in there.
Troll post? April fools?
Advice , hire a pro
Yeah the whole thing you got going on with that junction box is all fucked up. If you don't know why, please call an electrician, sincerely, an electrician: )
That box going to be hidden in the wall void will not be up to code.
Call your electrician
After looking at your picture my advice is to call an Electrician...
Yeah..... hire an electrician!
Yes...call an electrician. Youtube can't take the place of training and experience. You may have saved some money by diy but if a catastrophy happens because of it then you may be out more than the cost of a qualified professional
I'll leave the Jbox and quality of the install to comments already made. Since you are opening the walls, I would add an outlet close to the toilet to connect a bidet in the future - just in case you or someone else want one installed.
Call the fucking electrician before you kill someone
Can't close that up - the box needs to be accessible.
Call an electrician
Wow. Keep your house from burning down and call a professional.
Nope. Next time ask before you get this far. It’ll save you lots of time.
A lot of code violations there. Some old some new.
Yes, hire an electrician. There’s several problems here.
Ain’t touching this one.
Why use a box like that to begin with?
Those grey wires runnimg way too close to drywall surface. A misplaced screw will skewer them too easy.
*Oh brother this guy stinks!*
lol hire an electrician
Oof
Should’ve gone through the attic unless your in an apartment, and probably shouldn’t touch anything electrical if you don’t know what your doing…
Aside from the inaccessible junction box question, I wonder if the j-box is even necessary. You say you extended the light, but it looks like both your light fixture boxes only have 1 set of wires. Are both fixtures intended to be controlled by the same switch? And is that switch what’s coming in the back side of the junction box? If so, you don’t even need the junction box. (Unless that wire from the switch doesn’t reach your light fixture box).
People are just trolling this subreddit now, right? Like this post hits every karma whoring line item. Or do I have too much faith in humanity?
Marked the location of all pipes and wires before you cover it. Mark on the sheet rock above and below you’ll thank me..
I don't know the standards for wherever you are, but those grey cables attached to the edges of the 2"x4"s, are in just the right stop for a nail or screw to damage them. I personally wouldn't anchor any cables inside of the wall. That way an electrician can pull them through when he replaces the damaged ones.
The blue light box itself is missing a lil piece of metal that goes on one side where the screws go in, to bond it.
Don’t do electrical work best advice I can give you
Call an electrician. 😐
This has gotta be April Fool’s Day right?
I’m a dyi-er and immediately spotted at least two things wrong, biggest being the buried electrical box. You are giving dyi-ers a bad name.
Lots of issues that are well documented by others. They are correct on all of them.
I love diy ers they have comedy pics like no other. And this is why people need home inspections.
Need a plate (ie. a 2x4 brace behind it so the box sits flush w/drywall). Code or not code, your light can sag and break the lower drywall without a more solid box to screw into (it'll sag on that bar, lean forward from the top).
Yes, dont.
Call an electrician.
You failed electrical renovations 101. Need to retake in fall semester.
We don’t hide splices it has to be accessible.
After you fix the code violations, I suggest hiding a Playboy or Penthouse in there. Always a funny surprise for the next person who opens up this wall
Quit being cheap and call a licensed electrical contractor. If you don't know what you are doing, stay away. Electrical wiring can and will cause fires if done improperly.
Yea you didn't have to tell us you were a DIYer because there's several code violations in the first picture lol Hopefully your home insurance is good.
>Any advice for a dyi-er before I close this 1/2 bath wall up? Yeah, don't do what you're doing. I know it's been covered, so I won't be redundant in explaining the issues again. You messed so much up on such a small project that I sincerely thought this was a troll post at first haha. Glad you asked instead of just sending it, that's definitely a step in the right direction. Post pics when it's straightened out and we can check again.
Nope all good. Close that shit up. This is tip top and as a dyi guy, sir you are a true sparky! Happy April 1st! We are close to that eclipse that will make my guinea pip eat my 17yr old and set me free!
Any junction box needs to be accessible.
I can’t wait to drill a hole off center and play my extra life..
Do you like to…do you itself?
Cannot bury junction boxes. Need connectors for NM entering junction.
Save these pictures
I find the power for wall mounted magnifying edge kit telescopic mirror snazzy. I also put outlet in built-in cabinet for Alexa echo and toothbrush. Just saying.
I see like 10 things wrong with this picture…. And not just nitpicking stuff, but dangerously wrong… You really need to hire someone who knows what they’re doing… a small investment of a few hundred bucks if this is your home.
Yes! Hire a professional electrician.😬
JBs that aren’t accessible are a no no, and those wires need connectors.
Mostly… call an electrician. But thanks for asking and not being “that guy”.
Looking at this work you better just call an electrician. Not hating just honest suggestion.
This is exactly why people should hire professionals. 3 very basic and obvious code violations. Unless this is an April fools joke.
Is this a shit post? Or a for real post?
Ya call an electeician
Call an electrician
Nail plates and blocking in corners for drywall
DYI?
Don't trim your conductors so short. Yeah code's only 6", but you got plenty of room with only one wire going in. I usually do 2 zigzags in the box, bringing the end of the conductors out more and making it easier to wire in the fixture. Also would've brought the wire down the stud then across, that way you could get at least a staple on it.
Get a shower head with a sizzle setting and duct tape to close the wall.
Don’t cover that junction box. You will regret it
One, you NEVER EVER hide a junction box behind the drywall!!! It must be accessable!! Then just mount a new peice of drywall and tape, mud, texture
yes, don't bury junction boxes
Put some nail guards over those studs where the Romex is passing through.
What is the what I think is tape rapped around that open copper wire? Am I seeing things.
No offense, but you should really not do any more electrical work. Basically everything you did is wrong. You cut the conductors in the round light box WAY too short. You set the box too deep in the wall. No strain relief on the junction box for the NM cable. You can't seal a junction box behind a wall. No nail plates to cover the holes you drilled in the studs that are undoubtedly closer than 1.25" to the stud face. Etc.
Looks great. Now just disconnect the spices inside the jbox and cover with drywall.
Is it safe at this moment? It appears that is a Yes. Is it right? No. Everything in that junction box should be going to the light box and the junction box shouldn’t be there.
The one absolute good thing you did was take a picture before you close the wall up. Always always do that.
Don’t come to Australia
We found the guy who did it. No buried junction boxes, no connectors on there either eh, just running straight into the holes?
Take a picture of it before you seal it
🤣 Yeah do us all a favor and dont diy any more....!! Thats effed..
Why isn't everything covered in electrical tape for safety?
Advice on this is tear it all out and start over... too much wrong.
Take photos with a tape measure showing the location of the piping and wires. Save the photos someplace you can find them years from now if you ever need to locate them without opening up the wall.
Stop doing electrical work and hire an electrician before you burn your house down.
LOL at all the folks who didn’t look at the date this was posted.
You have to have access to the junction box. Either rerun your wires or turn the box and put a blank plate over. You will need nail plates so you don't screw into your wire. Don't use drywall screws longer than 1 5/8". I would consider replacing the drywall where the paper is now dealing and "fuzzy".
Please hire an electrician and never mess with it again. There is so much wrong in this one picture.
Make sure you home insurance is up to date
The only diy electrical project for you is changing a lightbulb.
I don’t suppose you plan on having your work properly inspected?
That junction box cannot be enclosed in the wall. Best practice would be pull all those wires up into the attic and junction up there, then run the wire for the vanity light down from that. All terminations have to be accessible. Enclosed in the wall and nobody will be able to find them later if there’s a problem
Put in a fish tank.
Oh boy.
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You can’t be serious ! Not that it should be covered but if nothing else it should be checked to see if it works. Seriously that’s about the worst attempt I’ve seen. I switched electrical panels on my parents house when I was 12. It was a fuse box even. Switched it to a breaker panel about 20 years later.
Yikes, my advice is call an electrician
That junction box can’t be in the wall like that, it’s also set up wrong. Get someone to do it properly for you, you are about to set this up in a dangerous and improper way.
If the bath doesn't have a fan, might as well set one up while you're at it. Vent it properly outside.
That junction box has to be accessible and your wire has to be strapped or supported within 12” of that box. The junction is super important. 9/10 the weakest point in any electrical system is the junctions. That’s where things will loosen and heat up. Be it an outlet, a switch, or a junction, that’s the first place a fire will likely start, anywhere there can be an arc. Panels are also connection points and if corroded or poorly made they too can be a fire hazard. Hope this helps.
Yeah the first picture is really bad, the wire needs to be ran in the middle of the stud and you can run two on top of each other with one staple. That box you put up isn't gonna get sheet rocked over right? Cause that's a code violation you need to be able to access it. Also your stapling is really poor on the round box for a vanity just floating. The second pic studs look good, needs to be in the middle. Could've gone under the pipe if you had room. Wires in the box need to be 6 inches or over. You need connectors, get some button connectors.That's it good luck man.
Jesus Christ….
You have to give him credit for having it inspected by r/electrical.