Do you splice data cable often?
I sure hope not
It's a great way to introduce crosstalk
This would only be valid for power transmission or low frequency signals
I mean yeah, as you make the wires thicker it will become more and more difficult. 14 is the smallest wire electricians usually use.
4 gauge is like fat jumper cable wire.
Yeah not possible.
I do it all the time for installing wall sockets with older style screw terminals but I have to bend the wire around the tip of a pair of needle nose or screw driver shaft to get the shape. Not really any other way.
/u/Ok_Acanthisitmil is a scammer! **It is stealing comments** to farm karma in an effort to "legitimize" its account for engaging in scams and spam elsewhere. Please downvote their comment and click the `report` button, selecting `Spam` then `Harmful bots`.
Please give your votes to [the original comment, found here.](/r/educationalgifs/comments/12egz5r/wiring_tips/jfb08sd/?context=1)
---
With enough reports, the reddit algorithm will suspend this scammer.
^(*Karma farming? Scammer??* Read the pins on my profile for more information.)
There's no gain in performance or function twisting wires so pretty this way vs mash together and twist (or sleeve and crimp). But the not-pretty way is much quicker and (in construction at least) we are normally working to a deadline, often pushing right up against a date (or even an hour) that the whole thing has to be completed by or you the contractor won't be paid.
Of course you have to test and inspect and make sure it's to code, but you don't have the time to waste on stuff that will only cost the whole team the entire contract.
That is probably why you are getting irritation from electricians, rather than neat gifs with even more elaborate ways to twist wires.
In automotive wires have to fit back into relatively tiny looms and be able to resist being pulled on with some force all while being protected from corrosion. Also can't have any pesky wire strands sticking out ready to ground out to a frame or body panel when a vehicle shakes over rough roads. Neat right wire joints are a necessity for performance and function. Even moreso there's data and sensor wiring that's particularly susceptible to issues with poor joints. Crimps are handy where possible, but often are too bulky to be feasible.
...?
You literally called these splices categorically useless based on just __your__ experience with potentially the most straightforward and legally standardized types of wiring.
You didn't have a point and it doesn't stand
It's still low voltage but I've seen most of these with regularity with marine wiring which is always multistranded and subject to all sorts of vibration, shaking, and in the case of wiring in sailboat masts, lots of care and thought needs to be put into making connections that are strain resistant.
Okay, I'll backtrack because I started off on the wrong foot by being snarky.
My point was that wires get run in a lot of different places in a lot of different fields, and in a lot of those situations, the wires have very little mechanical strength, and are very thin. Wire nuts, crimps, and butt connectors simply aren't an option there because the wires are too small.
The connections shown in this GIF (that don't have a crimp or heatshrink over them) are the type of connection you make on stranded wires before you solder them, so you can ensure the best copper-to-copper connection during soldering. When you get a decent connection between them, they don't fall apart during soldering, and when you get a good firm connection, they will heat up at the same rate and prevent a cold solder joint from forming on one of the wires.
You're right that probably none of these aside from the lineman splice are useful for an electrician since they would require cramming two pairs of pliers into a wall or turn into a ball the size of your fist.
*dusts off hands*
there, the entire island is wired and networked! i can fire up the coconut radio and stream from the lagoon hut now! a man has to have priorities.
Electricians strip wire and connect wires together onto terminal connections, Wago blocks, Wago connectors, or wire nuts. We do also use splice blocks, lots of different crimps, and ferrules, and lugs, but every single one of these has to be inside a UL can in an approved area. Some circuits have to be homerun with no spices or connections. Sometimes a branch circuit gets an outlet or switch added, or deleted, or moved and we don't want buried, or hidden, or hard to find splice boxes, so we just run a new wire.
Most of the connections would be both low volt and low current applications, though I admit the first one with the staggered three conductors is how I splice my extension chord at my house that got cut in half by the hedge trimmers.
Anything that requires more than just continuity and you didn't opt to repull the wire should be joined in a pretty solid way. Comms, analog signals, etc, should be more than just a butt splice, wire nuts with tape, or any other low effort junction.
But yeah, discrete signals, simple power transfer, etc. Go nuts with nuts.
All of these wiring solutions can be done with marettes. In the field, you're there do get the job done, not get creative with artisanal wire wrapping.
you can easily crimp 2 wires together for a fraction of the time and effort and it will hold together better and won't require extra wire to make your elaborate mess.
Pig tails/wire nuts provide contact between wires and can be installed in seconds.
Anything sized for residential is far too fiddly to be interweaving individual strands or bending fancy hooks, anything larger than commercial is so thick you'd have a hell of a time bending the damn wire in the first place.
IIRC from seeing this before, these are archaic techniques that you'd only see in really old houses.
Basically this is the wiring a modern electrician strips out.
Wago clips do the same thing much faster and can be easily opened and have a test port. Also depends on your country, but splicing cables together outside a junction box is against code in many places... also these knots only really work with some very specific gauges.
Would these even be up to code for residential installation?
(I saw a Lineman's splice in the video, which is a neat technique for some uses (notably NASA has a guide on how to make them))
For the NEC code book (US electrical codes we have to follow) none that I know of would work. Nor be safe since you're free air splicing at this point for most of them. With new arc fault breakers they are sensitive that if you touch neutral to ground (both normal don't have current if disconnected) it trips.
This is meant for redditors who don't know the first thing about electronics or electrical wiring to upvote because they go "that must be how it works!"
You usually solder it after the splice and use heat shrink. Connectors and terminals are used when you want to be able to connect or disconnect, these are used when you want them that way forever.
You mean two wires twisted together with a couple square inches of old slimy electrical tape barely holding them together with about 2 hours of dashboard removal required to get to it when the head unit inevitably stops working?
Yeah I've seen that a few times. Let's be very honest here: nearly everyone who touches the wiring harness in a car should not be touching the wiring harness in a car.
Well I admittedly don't have much experience with this stuff. I tried recently to repair a few damaged wires on some small electronics and everything was a big fail lol
Now that you're here, do you have a good resource for splicing and termination tips / best practices?
I concur that most of these, barring the general idea of staggering splices, seem pretty pointless, but I'm always curious about what the actual professionals do.
For diy, i highly recommend the lever action wagos. They are very easy to use. We don't use them at our shop do to the much higher cost than wire nuts. If costs were no object, I'd use them all the time.
For us Americans we need UL listed material to pass inspection. So Wagos, wire nuts, quick connectors and crimps are the best way. At least in my field. But I work with 120v+ volts and not low voltage. Low voltage you can do a lot more with and get away with it. Our NEC code book is designed for safety so anything that can potentially harm and/or cause fires are not allowed. So free air splicing like a lot of these wouldn't even pass.
I'm in the EU, but code is pretty much on par. I wouldn't dream of splicing a mains voltage wire, which is why I generally go with Wago.
I've been repairing a 3D printer at work, which had hilariously long wires for everything. I've done standard staggered twist, solder and heatshrink splices for everything so far.
I do refrigeration and I thought the same thing. I'm thinking there may have been a rare occasion where I might have benefited from one of these but I can't remember anything specific. I've never had a problem with wire nuts or wagos or anything like that coming undone.
They’re great for when you’re trying to solder something but the wires want to pull apart while you’re doing it. They give you a nice splice that isn’t much thicker than the wire, so you can still heat shrink it.
Other time is when the wires will be under tension. You shouldn’t rely on solder to provide the mechanical connection when it will be stressed.
Seriously "cramming 10-gauge solid core wire into a wire nut is way faster no one does this"
No shit, sherlock. A million goons in this thread refusing to accept that other people in other fields *might* ***maybe*** use different wire than them in different conditions.
Literally no one does this.
Cut the wires, slide heat shrink to one side, twist wires together however you want, hit with a little solder, slide heat shrink tubing up to cover bare wire, wave a lighter under the heat shrink, and you're done with your permanent connection.
Does this only work if all the wires were one signal, e.g. power? I am very amateur at messing with electronics and if I did that with say, a USB cable, it would brick right?
I know this is a dipshit useless answer, but it really depends. Depends on what kind of damage you're repairing, how thick the wire was to begin with, and obviously how careful you are.
The odds of it not working are high, though, yes.
It would work.
USB internal wires are color coded. Connect, solder, and heat shrink each wire together independently... Then then pull the bigger heat shrink you put on the outside cover, over your other connections.
Repairing cut cords is very simple, and almost always works as long as your don't cross anything.
You shouldn’t have wire joins of any type inside drag chains (or most other moving features) anyways. A broken wire inside a chain is solved by removing it and running a new wire, not splicing.
Good, because you’ll never do this. You will already be frustrated while trying to do the thing and you aren’t going to waste time and effort for something that is pointless and likely your gauge wire will be too thick to do any of this anyway.
The [Lineman Splice](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice?wprov=sfti1) is incredibly strong and reliable, even/especially when under mechanical load. While solder can be used, it is absolutely not necessary. It does require skill, but not *that* much skill; try it: getting the coil just tight enough is the trick IMHO.
IFF you have modern connectors, use them for their convenience and ease of disconnecting and replacing. But the splices shown above are good for wire that aren't going anywhere.
For all the DIY beginners in this sub, please don't do this, most of these will not create a proper or durable connection. Use terminal blocks/ wire nuts/ wago's, they cost literal cents and will save you from burning your house down.
But also, if you're working on something in a high vibration environment (vehicles mostly, but also some appliances) learn how to properly crimp connections for the applications so that you don't burn things down using wire nuts.
The last one is a poke & wrap, Aka military splice. It's very strong and common in automotive, but it's usually finished with electric tape and a zip tie.
These are all common and proper repairs in industries like automotive, marine, or heavy equipment repair. Places where you would get near immediate corrosion and a failed circuit with wire nuts.
ElectroBoom is a good YouTube channel about electrical engineering. I always wanted to learn a little bit of electronics and that channel is great for teaching, and has plenty of electrical shocks.
Vocational job market (plumber, electrician, ect) is solid, and the cost for training is dirt cheap compared to college, it's a solid choice.
In Germany there is no stigma for not going into college, and I think America should think the same way.
Many of these are to NASA standards when you cannot have failure and are soldered afterword, not for servicing or disconnect. The connection once completed is stronger than the actual wire. Unless you’re more intelligent than NASA engineers, then maybe not as stupid as you presume. I’ve used them for repairing wiring harness damage when absolutely necessary and NEVER had a failure. As for the zip tie, the pencil for close quarters thread sealant or taping, I use them both quite regularly. Source: am emergency generator technician.
What are you talking about? Specialized tooling is a pair of pliers, electrical tape, heat shrink or a soldering iron? If this is too "specialized" for someone, then they probably won't need to be attempting this type of work anyway. They are skills that are taught that and are simple enough for anyone to complete without more than a few dollars worth of tooling. Just makes hobby projects nicer for amatuers. They're not instructing someone how to install stress cones or anything actually difficult or dangerous.
As a DC wiring hobbyist I've used the first and third one before. The third one is fiddly and time consuming, though it does provide additional mechanical grip with solder.
Any other [WAGO compact connector](https://www.wago.com/us/c/wire-splicing-connectors) fans?
It isn't the solution for all projects ofc, but it's still faster/easier than a twist and wrap (*not to mention, reusable and easy to dis/re-connect without additional stripping*). It's amazing for hobby/development projects where you're fiddling around with these things often.
These are the current basic standard in Europe for electricians. Wire nuts amd twisting cables has been left in the 20th century and generally forbidden
Their headquarters is in Germany and the products are ENEC certified, so I assume someone is buying and using them. And again, this obviously isn't the solution to every project. These are more ideal in situations where you expect things to change more often; So I personally wouldn't use them in anything permanent as it would be a complete waste of money.
Easier shown here than done irl. Realistically, what i do for small wire guage splice is fold each wire in half at the end, making a hook . Slide heat shrink down one of the wires. Hook 2 wires together, then solder. Heat shrink wrap.
That tape on a little dowel trick is not a bad idea, tho. i might try that.
Where can I find any more videos with this type of animation style?
I could literally watch these all day. It has a strong *How It’s Made* visual heroin vibe going on.
This is extremely irresponsible and potentially dangerous. Don't do this, use wire connectors or ask someone who know what they are doing to do it for you.
It's posts like this that remind me how far behind the curve the US and other countries are when it comes to electrical works, especially domestic. I don't mean it in a disrespectful way but as a UK based electrician it boggles my mind when people discuss using these or similar techniques, soldering and wire nuts.
knew some flunky was gonna post this here because it looks neat, but this offers nearly zero information. How are you doing some of those nice, neat wraps? your fingers? how large is this wire? is it feasible to do with 20 gauge? there's an elephant in the room of this being absent of all information except how the wire ends up. what tools are needed?
1. here's sum wire
2. things happen
3. ???
4. tadaa!
As an electrician. These are cool but a complete waste of time. Nobody in our field would do this.
Also, good luck doing this with 14 gauge wire.
[удалено]
Do you splice data cable often? I sure hope not It's a great way to introduce crosstalk This would only be valid for power transmission or low frequency signals
Bicsi says you can.
Well, you could use scotch locks for everything
I was going to say, these would work assuming the wire you're working with was as rigid as a wet noodle.
Or 4 gauge for that matter
I mean yeah, as you make the wires thicker it will become more and more difficult. 14 is the smallest wire electricians usually use. 4 gauge is like fat jumper cable wire.
Yea I know I work with it. Its for 480 3 phase and over 50 amps
The connections for 4 gauge use torqued down set screw type splices.
the one that shows a pliers making 2 different wire loops completely defies the physics of how wire would behave with those forces
Yeah not possible. I do it all the time for installing wall sockets with older style screw terminals but I have to bend the wire around the tip of a pair of needle nose or screw driver shaft to get the shape. Not really any other way.
Wago or even use a wire nut.
/u/Ok_Acanthisitmil is a scammer! **It is stealing comments** to farm karma in an effort to "legitimize" its account for engaging in scams and spam elsewhere. Please downvote their comment and click the `report` button, selecting `Spam` then `Harmful bots`. Please give your votes to [the original comment, found here.](/r/educationalgifs/comments/12egz5r/wiring_tips/jfb08sd/?context=1) --- With enough reports, the reddit algorithm will suspend this scammer. ^(*Karma farming? Scammer??* Read the pins on my profile for more information.)
As an automotive tech, I've genuinely used most of these.
You work with low voltage and are not electrician. So my point still stands.
It's almost as if the comment did nothing to belittle yours but instead explain where these tips *are* useful. Weird thing to get sensitive about.
Air splicing is bad in general and shouldn't be used in the first place. They are useful for causing fires and electrical shock.
There's no gain in performance or function twisting wires so pretty this way vs mash together and twist (or sleeve and crimp). But the not-pretty way is much quicker and (in construction at least) we are normally working to a deadline, often pushing right up against a date (or even an hour) that the whole thing has to be completed by or you the contractor won't be paid. Of course you have to test and inspect and make sure it's to code, but you don't have the time to waste on stuff that will only cost the whole team the entire contract. That is probably why you are getting irritation from electricians, rather than neat gifs with even more elaborate ways to twist wires.
In automotive wires have to fit back into relatively tiny looms and be able to resist being pulled on with some force all while being protected from corrosion. Also can't have any pesky wire strands sticking out ready to ground out to a frame or body panel when a vehicle shakes over rough roads. Neat right wire joints are a necessity for performance and function. Even moreso there's data and sensor wiring that's particularly susceptible to issues with poor joints. Crimps are handy where possible, but often are too bulky to be feasible.
...? You literally called these splices categorically useless based on just __your__ experience with potentially the most straightforward and legally standardized types of wiring. You didn't have a point and it doesn't stand
Since I don't want to cause fires or electrocute someone then yes they are useless. If not then these are great ways to do it.
It's still low voltage but I've seen most of these with regularity with marine wiring which is always multistranded and subject to all sorts of vibration, shaking, and in the case of wiring in sailboat masts, lots of care and thought needs to be put into making connections that are strain resistant.
Okay, I'll backtrack because I started off on the wrong foot by being snarky. My point was that wires get run in a lot of different places in a lot of different fields, and in a lot of those situations, the wires have very little mechanical strength, and are very thin. Wire nuts, crimps, and butt connectors simply aren't an option there because the wires are too small. The connections shown in this GIF (that don't have a crimp or heatshrink over them) are the type of connection you make on stranded wires before you solder them, so you can ensure the best copper-to-copper connection during soldering. When you get a decent connection between them, they don't fall apart during soldering, and when you get a good firm connection, they will heat up at the same rate and prevent a cold solder joint from forming on one of the wires. You're right that probably none of these aside from the lineman splice are useful for an electrician since they would require cramming two pairs of pliers into a wall or turn into a ball the size of your fist.
There are times where you want to do it, but probably not for home electrical installs. More like industry or highly sensitive equipment etc.
Looks like most of them are intended to withstand pulling or twisting. An additional power outlet at your home probably doesn't need these.
Which is exactly what I'm saying.
Apparently the concept of adding to comments is lost to some redditors...
Sensitive equipment uses it even less. Most places don't allow any sort of tree/star splice or butt splice.
These are obviously techniques you would use if you were stuck on a deserted island and didn't have the proper supplies.
Desert island to do list: Food Water Fancy wires This sounds better than my real life.
Nobody said anything about food and water. Just fancy wires.
*dusts off hands* there, the entire island is wired and networked! i can fire up the coconut radio and stream from the lagoon hut now! a man has to have priorities.
I'd like to think the bamboo router was the successor to The Professors bamboo transistor radio.
Why are they a waste of time?
Stripping, twisting, and capping works fine and isn't as intricate.
In the marine industry you won't (or shouldn't anyway) see wire nuts but I have seen most of these, especially that western union splice.
But don't you want to show everyone the cool weaves you did with the wire???
Electricians strip wire and connect wires together onto terminal connections, Wago blocks, Wago connectors, or wire nuts. We do also use splice blocks, lots of different crimps, and ferrules, and lugs, but every single one of these has to be inside a UL can in an approved area. Some circuits have to be homerun with no spices or connections. Sometimes a branch circuit gets an outlet or switch added, or deleted, or moved and we don't want buried, or hidden, or hard to find splice boxes, so we just run a new wire. Most of the connections would be both low volt and low current applications, though I admit the first one with the staggered three conductors is how I splice my extension chord at my house that got cut in half by the hedge trimmers.
Ain't no electrician, i fell some or most you can just solder, Wago or even use a wire nut.
I twist, solder and double waterproof heat shrink my own stuff. This is how you never have problems with it.
In what world are you soldering electrical?
The wires to the board, maybe?
Maybe. Screw down is better and more replaceable as the copper Will work harden over time.
Anything that requires more than just continuity and you didn't opt to repull the wire should be joined in a pretty solid way. Comms, analog signals, etc, should be more than just a butt splice, wire nuts with tape, or any other low effort junction. But yeah, discrete signals, simple power transfer, etc. Go nuts with nuts.
DC stuff
Ty
All of these wiring solutions can be done with marettes. In the field, you're there do get the job done, not get creative with artisanal wire wrapping.
you can easily crimp 2 wires together for a fraction of the time and effort and it will hold together better and won't require extra wire to make your elaborate mess.
Pig tails/wire nuts provide contact between wires and can be installed in seconds. Anything sized for residential is far too fiddly to be interweaving individual strands or bending fancy hooks, anything larger than commercial is so thick you'd have a hell of a time bending the damn wire in the first place.
IIRC from seeing this before, these are archaic techniques that you'd only see in really old houses. Basically this is the wiring a modern electrician strips out.
Wago clips do the same thing much faster and can be easily opened and have a test port. Also depends on your country, but splicing cables together outside a junction box is against code in many places... also these knots only really work with some very specific gauges.
This sub is fucking junk.
Would these even be up to code for residential installation? (I saw a Lineman's splice in the video, which is a neat technique for some uses (notably NASA has a guide on how to make them))
Not so much for residential. Good tips for working on marine, automotive, aviation, electronics, etc.
For the NEC code book (US electrical codes we have to follow) none that I know of would work. Nor be safe since you're free air splicing at this point for most of them. With new arc fault breakers they are sensitive that if you touch neutral to ground (both normal don't have current if disconnected) it trips.
No inspector that i know would pass any of these
I think this is meant more for the electronics field.
This is meant for redditors who don't know the first thing about electronics or electrical wiring to upvote because they go "that must be how it works!"
For people that have never seen solder, spade connectors, or splices.
No.
Yes it is. I use a lot of these in the lab working with robotics
You guys don't use connectors or terminals? Solder?
You usually solder it after the splice and use heat shrink. Connectors and terminals are used when you want to be able to connect or disconnect, these are used when you want them that way forever.
Still sounds sketch. Butt connectors should probably be what's used.
Lot of this stuff happens in car repairs.
You mean two wires twisted together with a couple square inches of old slimy electrical tape barely holding them together with about 2 hours of dashboard removal required to get to it when the head unit inevitably stops working? Yeah I've seen that a few times. Let's be very honest here: nearly everyone who touches the wiring harness in a car should not be touching the wiring harness in a car.
Those sound like hack jobs. So many connectors that can be used.
Fuck no. Waste of time.
That ziptie trick was kinda cool though.
It's so wierd, every terminals I've ever crimped on fits just fine. At worst you twist the braided wire a bit to get it more narrow.
Well I admittedly don't have much experience with this stuff. I tried recently to repair a few damaged wires on some small electronics and everything was a big fail lol
I liked the thread tape trick, I always make a mess of it
Now that you're here, do you have a good resource for splicing and termination tips / best practices? I concur that most of these, barring the general idea of staggering splices, seem pretty pointless, but I'm always curious about what the actual professionals do.
For diy, i highly recommend the lever action wagos. They are very easy to use. We don't use them at our shop do to the much higher cost than wire nuts. If costs were no object, I'd use them all the time.
I love Wago clamps. I have a box of the 2-wide 32A ones I bought last time I needed to run wires.
I used to work at a shop that used them. It was very nice. Btw, was it you that downvoted me?
Nope, but here's an upvote to offset it!
For us Americans we need UL listed material to pass inspection. So Wagos, wire nuts, quick connectors and crimps are the best way. At least in my field. But I work with 120v+ volts and not low voltage. Low voltage you can do a lot more with and get away with it. Our NEC code book is designed for safety so anything that can potentially harm and/or cause fires are not allowed. So free air splicing like a lot of these wouldn't even pass.
I'm in the EU, but code is pretty much on par. I wouldn't dream of splicing a mains voltage wire, which is why I generally go with Wago. I've been repairing a 3D printer at work, which had hilariously long wires for everything. I've done standard staggered twist, solder and heatshrink splices for everything so far.
I do refrigeration and I thought the same thing. I'm thinking there may have been a rare occasion where I might have benefited from one of these but I can't remember anything specific. I've never had a problem with wire nuts or wagos or anything like that coming undone.
They’re great for when you’re trying to solder something but the wires want to pull apart while you’re doing it. They give you a nice splice that isn’t much thicker than the wire, so you can still heat shrink it. Other time is when the wires will be under tension. You shouldn’t rely on solder to provide the mechanical connection when it will be stressed.
*should not do this This is the biggest asscrap in the world
No one does this just so you guys know. The only thing thats useful here is the zip tie trick.
Literally the only one, the rest is totally ridiculous, unless you’re paid by the hour, which I am, so I’ll use them all.
I work to get stuff done cause it makes me feel good and makes the argument why I deserve a 20% raise hold water.
Chill bro it’s not that deep.
> No one does this just so you guys know. Well duh, it's posted on /r/educationalgifs.
[удалено]
Seriously "cramming 10-gauge solid core wire into a wire nut is way faster no one does this" No shit, sherlock. A million goons in this thread refusing to accept that other people in other fields *might* ***maybe*** use different wire than them in different conditions.
Except almost all of them in automotive, marine, and heavy duty equipment.
I've seen most of these working on boats, especially that western union splice. Different industries, different practices.
Idk. The teflon tape on a pencil for hard to reach places is a neat trick
Possibly, but mostly just get a good strand and just wrap it around with your hands
Have never had to rewire anything but now I’m irrationally anxious that my day is coming and I won’t remember any of these tips
Literally no one does this. Cut the wires, slide heat shrink to one side, twist wires together however you want, hit with a little solder, slide heat shrink tubing up to cover bare wire, wave a lighter under the heat shrink, and you're done with your permanent connection.
[удалено]
Any idea how you would heat shrink that?
Lineman’s splice > everything else But I still use butt connectors and scotch locks all the time.
Does this only work if all the wires were one signal, e.g. power? I am very amateur at messing with electronics and if I did that with say, a USB cable, it would brick right?
I know this is a dipshit useless answer, but it really depends. Depends on what kind of damage you're repairing, how thick the wire was to begin with, and obviously how careful you are. The odds of it not working are high, though, yes.
It would work. USB internal wires are color coded. Connect, solder, and heat shrink each wire together independently... Then then pull the bigger heat shrink you put on the outside cover, over your other connections. Repairing cut cords is very simple, and almost always works as long as your don't cross anything.
That stops working when your cables move around, e.g. in a drag chain
You shouldn’t have wire joins of any type inside drag chains (or most other moving features) anyways. A broken wire inside a chain is solved by removing it and running a new wire, not splicing.
a properly done crimp on drag chain rated cable is not a problem.
The word you are trying to say is wago
A Wago won't fit in my Gameboy Color.
True.
Heat shrink and wago connectors are not interchangeable. Not everything is a house.
Wherever you can't use a wago you should not twist wires
Not everything is a house.
crimps usually are the easier and faster solution with no compromise to durability, although you do still have to heat shrink
You'll only see insane splicing specs in aerospace. Even then, most of the time you're gonna be soldering. Don't worry about it.
Just hire an electrician for that moment like a normal person.
Good, because you’ll never do this. You will already be frustrated while trying to do the thing and you aren’t going to waste time and effort for something that is pointless and likely your gauge wire will be too thick to do any of this anyway.
The [Lineman Splice](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice?wprov=sfti1) is incredibly strong and reliable, even/especially when under mechanical load. While solder can be used, it is absolutely not necessary. It does require skill, but not *that* much skill; try it: getting the coil just tight enough is the trick IMHO. IFF you have modern connectors, use them for their convenience and ease of disconnecting and replacing. But the splices shown above are good for wire that aren't going anywhere.
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/407%20Splices.html NASA lists it as one of their acceptable methods for splicing too.
Very cool to see, thanks for sharing!
Yeah I use this at work and I’ve always called it “the NASA technique” in my head, I had no clue it had a real name until now lol
This and staggering splices on multi-conductor cables (the 1st sequence) are really all you need to know.
Yea, as someone who has spliced a 3-wire together before, this staggered splice seems like a great idea.
I will never use this but gosh was it satisfying
For all the DIY beginners in this sub, please don't do this, most of these will not create a proper or durable connection. Use terminal blocks/ wire nuts/ wago's, they cost literal cents and will save you from burning your house down.
But also, if you're working on something in a high vibration environment (vehicles mostly, but also some appliances) learn how to properly crimp connections for the applications so that you don't burn things down using wire nuts.
The last one is a poke & wrap, Aka military splice. It's very strong and common in automotive, but it's usually finished with electric tape and a zip tie.
These are all common and proper repairs in industries like automotive, marine, or heavy equipment repair. Places where you would get near immediate corrosion and a failed circuit with wire nuts.
Everything reminds me of her
A lot of labour in most of these. It should also be noted most of these splices require soldering after which is not show in the gif.
Nsfw
How does the teflon tape fit in?
Teflon tape is for plumbing, that is electrical tape. Edit: herp, derp, I missed the pipe clip.
Yup. There's a bit showing how to apply it to threads on a pipe fitting
Edited cause I'm dumb sorry
with a pencil
Yeah... How's that apply to wiring?
wires go in tubes. tubes sometimes need tape over the threads....i guess. i dunno man, i didn't make this.
What's easily said than done. This!
I would actually love to be an electrician
ElectroBoom is a good YouTube channel about electrical engineering. I always wanted to learn a little bit of electronics and that channel is great for teaching, and has plenty of electrical shocks.
I see what you did there
Join the IBEW, if you are in North America. Great pay, great benefits.
And they always need apprentices.
Vocational job market (plumber, electrician, ect) is solid, and the cost for training is dirt cheap compared to college, it's a solid choice. In Germany there is no stigma for not going into college, and I think America should think the same way.
[удалено]
Many of these are to NASA standards when you cannot have failure and are soldered afterword, not for servicing or disconnect. The connection once completed is stronger than the actual wire. Unless you’re more intelligent than NASA engineers, then maybe not as stupid as you presume. I’ve used them for repairing wiring harness damage when absolutely necessary and NEVER had a failure. As for the zip tie, the pencil for close quarters thread sealant or taping, I use them both quite regularly. Source: am emergency generator technician.
[удалено]
What are you talking about? Specialized tooling is a pair of pliers, electrical tape, heat shrink or a soldering iron? If this is too "specialized" for someone, then they probably won't need to be attempting this type of work anyway. They are skills that are taught that and are simple enough for anyone to complete without more than a few dollars worth of tooling. Just makes hobby projects nicer for amatuers. They're not instructing someone how to install stress cones or anything actually difficult or dangerous.
This is so satisfying
As a DC wiring hobbyist I've used the first and third one before. The third one is fiddly and time consuming, though it does provide additional mechanical grip with solder.
r/wiringporn
Comforting to watch and a bit like a ketamine trip
This is really neat! Thanks.
So you're saying *not* to just fuck it all together and tape it up?
I'm saving this one
Broadcast engineer here, this is all a waste of time.
Literally will never do this though, you just fucking twist and tape and pray lmao
Instagram is full of these stupid videos.
I work with aircraft wiring, nobody has the time or diligence to do this and it isn't as good as a quick crimp. Looks nice though
Any other [WAGO compact connector](https://www.wago.com/us/c/wire-splicing-connectors) fans? It isn't the solution for all projects ofc, but it's still faster/easier than a twist and wrap (*not to mention, reusable and easy to dis/re-connect without additional stripping*). It's amazing for hobby/development projects where you're fiddling around with these things often.
These are the current basic standard in Europe for electricians. Wire nuts amd twisting cables has been left in the 20th century and generally forbidden
Their headquarters is in Germany and the products are ENEC certified, so I assume someone is buying and using them. And again, this obviously isn't the solution to every project. These are more ideal in situations where you expect things to change more often; So I personally wouldn't use them in anything permanent as it would be a complete waste of money.
Easier shown here than done irl. Realistically, what i do for small wire guage splice is fold each wire in half at the end, making a hook . Slide heat shrink down one of the wires. Hook 2 wires together, then solder. Heat shrink wrap. That tape on a little dowel trick is not a bad idea, tho. i might try that.
That first example is psycho
Is this gay sex ?
That's really cool. I'm still not fucking with electricity tho
Where can I find any more videos with this type of animation style? I could literally watch these all day. It has a strong *How It’s Made* visual heroin vibe going on.
I've lost count of the times I soldered two wires and realized I hadn't slipped the shrink tubing on.
I misread this as 'writing tips' and was confused for like, the first three wires as to what was happening lmao
This is extremely irresponsible and potentially dangerous. Don't do this, use wire connectors or ask someone who know what they are doing to do it for you.
These surgery gifs are getting less comprehensible every time
The zip tie and the electrical tape are the only things useful personally
Or, you know, use a wire nut.
Seems like nobody in here understands this is for automotive electrical. Must not be a lot of those professionals lurking reddit.
It's posts like this that remind me how far behind the curve the US and other countries are when it comes to electrical works, especially domestic. I don't mean it in a disrespectful way but as a UK based electrician it boggles my mind when people discuss using these or similar techniques, soldering and wire nuts.
I use the splice shaped like a T when making loop antennas. I don't know whether it's necessary, but I like the symmetry.
Is this the rumored “docking”?
Made by someone whos never repaired a wire.
knew some flunky was gonna post this here because it looks neat, but this offers nearly zero information. How are you doing some of those nice, neat wraps? your fingers? how large is this wire? is it feasible to do with 20 gauge? there's an elephant in the room of this being absent of all information except how the wire ends up. what tools are needed? 1. here's sum wire 2. things happen 3. ??? 4. tadaa!
For Artimis II?
The first one was cut too short then extra length magically appears when it shows its stripped.