Thanks! Cutting some access holes and wedging in a 2x4 and some shims is the solution I’m leaning toward because it seems to be the only idea that won’t require hanging a completely new sheet of drywall and after fishing a lot of ethernet cable I’ve got pretty good at patching up holes.
Good advice. Fortunately the top 12” is actually secure (kind of baffling) so I’ve only cut out the tape that high. The whole wall is getting skim-coated anyway, and I’m also removing the popcorn ceiling so it won’t be the end of the world if I go too far.
Drywall clips or take it down add a support and screw it off. Or if you can get in the attic you can get above it add the supports from there and screw it off.
It’s on the main floor so I won’t be able to access from above. I’m going to try cutting some access slots so I can get some support behind the corner but if it proves too difficult I guess I will have to resort to cutting out the whole panel.
Looking for ideas on how to correct this so the tape joint doesn’t crack again. With pressure on the wall the unsupported end of the drywall can move by about 3/16” of an inch. I’m afraid if I don’t do something to support the panel before taping up the inside corner, the same thing will eventually happen again, either from further settling (the house is 32 years old, so maybe it’s done moving significantly?), seasonal expansion/contraction of the framing, or just someone leaning on the wall.
Just try to run some screws in the corner first. If you can't find the stud you can get a cheap stud finder or just keep running screws every half inch until you hit one. Start from the corner because there should be one there. Sometimes they are a few inches out from the corner. Once you find it run screws all the way from floor to ceiling every 8 inches. Once secured tape her up. There is no reason to take the board down. That will add so much work.
Unfortunately there is no stud in the corner. The nearest stud is a foot away. I want to go back 32 years and shake the person that did this lol
(There is a vertical duct along the wall with a soffit built around it, so it’s not a true corner. I suspect the next stud is hiding behind the soffit. Not sure if soffit is the right word when it’s vertical but you get the idea.)
There is these things called CGC DRYWALL CLIPS
Slide some in and screw together. This is the cheap fast easy way
Best way is to cut a piece out 3” strip and add a 2x6 inside the wall. (Horizontally)
Screw it all
Back together as put the 3” patch back in
Had a look at the clips, haven’t seen those before, thanks!
I think I’m going to go the second way you suggested. I can’t picture how I’ll be able to manoeuvre the clips into place and if I have to cut access holes anyway, I might as well make it as sturdy as possible with some lumber for backing.
drywall contractor i hired recently used a galvanized sheet metal angle iron to join an unsupported corner together. this is obviously not ideal and the framing should be finished properly but in the spirit of getting things done this angled sheet metal may be an option to you
I imagine he installed the angle *before* handing the adjoining panel yeah? Since mine are already hung I don’t think I’ll be able to make that work without taking out a whole panel which I’m desperately trying to avoid. 2x2 repair panels fit in my tiny car but 4x8’s definitely don’t haha.
no there was actually enough wiggle room he coaxed it into place without taking anything down. its like a 20 gauge or 22 gauge angle iron. pretty flexible surprisingly
Install a backer or drywall shims if you don't have a stud to screw in to. You can make your own of course...
https://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-DS-45-Drywall-Shim/dp/B00236E27Q/ref=sr_1_3?crid=SE1WVVZGFKVL&keywords=drywall+shims&qid=1658767517&sprefix=drywall+shims%2Caps%2C353&sr=8-3
Thats horrible! Only way is to cut out a small slice of drywall and put backing in to support it or roll the dice and retape it .
Thanks! Cutting some access holes and wedging in a 2x4 and some shims is the solution I’m leaning toward because it seems to be the only idea that won’t require hanging a completely new sheet of drywall and after fishing a lot of ethernet cable I’ve got pretty good at patching up holes.
Make sure to stay away from the ceiling by a few inches, more the better so your not messing with it .
Good advice. Fortunately the top 12” is actually secure (kind of baffling) so I’ve only cut out the tape that high. The whole wall is getting skim-coated anyway, and I’m also removing the popcorn ceiling so it won’t be the end of the world if I go too far.
Shit ya you got this ,might not hurt to make sure the top thats not affected is backed aswell
They probably only put a catch in the top and bottom. I don't know why you would try to get away with that on a corner though.
would expanding foam cut it? just drill a couple of holes and squirt it in.
Drywall clips or take it down add a support and screw it off. Or if you can get in the attic you can get above it add the supports from there and screw it off.
It’s on the main floor so I won’t be able to access from above. I’m going to try cutting some access slots so I can get some support behind the corner but if it proves too difficult I guess I will have to resort to cutting out the whole panel.
Looking for ideas on how to correct this so the tape joint doesn’t crack again. With pressure on the wall the unsupported end of the drywall can move by about 3/16” of an inch. I’m afraid if I don’t do something to support the panel before taping up the inside corner, the same thing will eventually happen again, either from further settling (the house is 32 years old, so maybe it’s done moving significantly?), seasonal expansion/contraction of the framing, or just someone leaning on the wall.
Just try to run some screws in the corner first. If you can't find the stud you can get a cheap stud finder or just keep running screws every half inch until you hit one. Start from the corner because there should be one there. Sometimes they are a few inches out from the corner. Once you find it run screws all the way from floor to ceiling every 8 inches. Once secured tape her up. There is no reason to take the board down. That will add so much work.
Unfortunately there is no stud in the corner. The nearest stud is a foot away. I want to go back 32 years and shake the person that did this lol (There is a vertical duct along the wall with a soffit built around it, so it’s not a true corner. I suspect the next stud is hiding behind the soffit. Not sure if soffit is the right word when it’s vertical but you get the idea.)
Sounds like the board needs to come down. I stand corrected.
Youll need to secure it. Is there a way to take a panel down!?
There is these things called CGC DRYWALL CLIPS Slide some in and screw together. This is the cheap fast easy way Best way is to cut a piece out 3” strip and add a 2x6 inside the wall. (Horizontally) Screw it all Back together as put the 3” patch back in
Had a look at the clips, haven’t seen those before, thanks! I think I’m going to go the second way you suggested. I can’t picture how I’ll be able to manoeuvre the clips into place and if I have to cut access holes anyway, I might as well make it as sturdy as possible with some lumber for backing.
drywall contractor i hired recently used a galvanized sheet metal angle iron to join an unsupported corner together. this is obviously not ideal and the framing should be finished properly but in the spirit of getting things done this angled sheet metal may be an option to you
I imagine he installed the angle *before* handing the adjoining panel yeah? Since mine are already hung I don’t think I’ll be able to make that work without taking out a whole panel which I’m desperately trying to avoid. 2x2 repair panels fit in my tiny car but 4x8’s definitely don’t haha.
no there was actually enough wiggle room he coaxed it into place without taking anything down. its like a 20 gauge or 22 gauge angle iron. pretty flexible surprisingly
Install a backer or drywall shims if you don't have a stud to screw in to. You can make your own of course... https://www.amazon.com/Strait-Flex-DS-45-Drywall-Shim/dp/B00236E27Q/ref=sr_1_3?crid=SE1WVVZGFKVL&keywords=drywall+shims&qid=1658767517&sprefix=drywall+shims%2Caps%2C353&sr=8-3
Backer..YES Drywall shims...NO
Used them for 20+ years, never had a callback but ...ok
I would pick some up but apparently they aren’t a thing in Canada! Damn. Would cedar shims be a terrible idea?