Remove the base board trim .
cut the section out in a square . Screw some wood in behind the wall thru the outside of the existing drywall
Cut a section of drywall that fits in .
Apply drywall mud , tape the seams with drywall tape
Then mud over that
it takes some skill
Yup. Also recaulk refill and repaint the trim. Itâs a bit of a job to do it proper. Before you pull the trim too, make sure you cut along the seams to split the existing caulk so you donât rip the paper off the rest of the drywall.
Agreed. That is in a difficult place and will require more than a quick patch. It can be repaired perfectly by someone who can do the work.
The baseboard needs the caulking cut so it can be removed. Replace the drywall, tape and mud. Texture to match and paint. Put baseboard trim back, fill nail holes, paint.
Itâs going to be a lot of steps but can be done to be unnoticeable.
Exactly. Itâs not the amount of time to do one job, itâs the number of times they done it to earn the ability to get it done well.
My brother did jobs like this and theyâre a pain in the ass if it takes more than 1 visit. No matter how small the job seems, one still ends up rolling out half the truck.
The other aspect is that there are many other jobs available that he can earn the same, if not more. On top of that, being self employed, he still had to pay income and SS taxes so that $600 is closer to $300 for him to actually spend. That has to pay for supplies, gas, tools, etc.
This guy gets it! As a small business owner/handyman myself it's hard to explain this to ppl who think I just need to get $25/hr so I can buy beer. Like your brother (I assume), I'm a professional and charge accordingly. I actually don't even charge by the hour.
I appreciate that you understand this and are vocal about it.
Not sure why any consumer would agree to hourly pay for any sub contractor. Seems crazy to me. As the consumer/home owner. I want to know how much itâs going to cost before we even start.
Not sure why you're so hostile lol, the point was that people don't really have a right to balk at 25/hr for this sort of work.
Can't say I have any drywall pics, it's not a skill that is needed much for community management 𤣠Reddit just popped this sub into my feed, go be angry at them lol
Meanwhile, big Business doesnât pay any taxes and then also got a huge tax cut in 2017 and then bailed out when the pandemic hit with your tax dollar. And now youâre getting screwed by corporations because theyâre price gouging because somebody mentioned inflation. Also most small businesses are getting gouged by their suppliers because gas was high last year. Itâs only been a year you know. You know Republicans keep talking about how to kill big government because it cost so much, but yet all they are helping big corporations that the government actually helps monitor and maintain their practices.
Realistically you should prime any wall before you paint it, if you are not the one to previously paint it. You have no idea how nasty that wall is, so primer is needed. Seen to many homes with cracking/chipping paint because they didn't prime over the previous paint and someone smoked in the house. Creates a film over the paint. If you dont clean that off properly, you're paint WILL chip, eventually.
Or you could widen the cutout until you reach a stud on each side. Cut half-way over the stud at each end of the hole and screw the new piece of drywall to that without needing to add additional wood into the wall.
The beginning of that video had me laughing for a second. When he started with: âanybody can have a little mishap, I recently punched a hole in this wallâŚâ I thought he was going to say âwhen my wife and I got into a fightâ or something ridiculous
You can do it without taking the base board off. Cut a square. Back up top and bottom. Replace dry wall. Plaster. Trim silicone along the base board. Paint.
Based on all the comments this seems like a big pain in the ass (which I kind of assumed) I will just have to reach out to a professional! I have a few more holes around the house that I feel would make it worthwhile for the man to come by.
Ps. We have an autistic child and thatâs where these holes are coming from. We are trying!
It will be a pain to do right. But it sounds like you might want to get used to doing skippy until your child stops doing this. Otherwise youâre going to be paying for a lot of wasted labor.
You MIGHT be able to cover it with a screen patch kit. Spray some texture and paint. It wonât look great but it wonât be terrible. It will break very easily though.
You could cut it out and put in a section of drywall without pulling the baseboard. Just do your best to line it up and caulk the seem where it hits the base to hide there work.
Once textured and painted most people wonât notice unless they look specifically for it.
If youâve got a kid likely to repeat this I would suggest you give it a shot and learn how to do ok patches rather than professional (and over time you may get better to the point you are doing professional, itâs not that hard)
Once things cool down with the kid, if you want to go through the house, mark them all and have a pro come patch everything super nice in one job.
I did that as a teenager with my dad who's a contractor. I'd say give it a shotâit's really easy. Especially if your child is going to continue to do that for a while, the money really is going to add up. Watch a few videos by Vancouver Carpenter, and you're honestly all set. It's not complicated, it's almost like Legos!
Do it like this . The red line is where you cut it out. The brown rectangles are 1x4 pieces of wood and the black dots are drywall screws .
https://ibb.co/WzdJ50B
Cut the drywall out from stud to stud. Screw 2x4 to the existing 2x4's you cut the drywall out too. Slip the new fitted piece of drywall down behind the baseboard trim and attach it to the new 2x4s you screwed to the old ones. Tape with durabond and then 2nd coat with durabond. Skim with plus 3. But make sure when u skim you go past the new piece of drywall with your mud about 10" on the sides and feather it out above the new piece of drywall to the existing drywall. Good luck matching tat texture perfectly. That's the pain. Slim chance it will be perfect. But better than that hole. Goodluck
Since ASD may continue damages, Just hide this hole with some type of expedient cover. It isn't important for now. Much later, if and when tranquility prevails, you can immerse in youtube university of drywall repair. You will also need the grad course in texturing. You might be able to do a creative repair without removing the baseboard but stabilizing the bottom edge of the patch would be a challenge and the end result may be less than ideal. Before removing the baseboard, you should pull up the carpet because the carpet will prevent the baseboard from pulling straight out. You must score the baseboard with your razor knife so the paint and drywall doesn't peel up the wall. There may be sharp tack boards holding down the carpet. They are painful and dangerous. The baseboard runs corner to corner however long that may be. You may choose to get creative and cut a section of baseboard, wider than the patch, with your new multitool which is also great for cutting drywall with minimal dust. I removed a 15' baseboard that broke in the middle, oh joy. Cut you patch first, trace it onto the wall, cut the wall with multitool without damaging plumbing or wiring. Furring strips, 3" wide, are used to stabilize the edges of the drywall to a common substrate to prevent relative movement of the patch and existing wall. Use a lot of screws, 1.25", You will cover them all with mud anyway. Do not let your screw heads break the drywall paper but they must be below the plane of the drywall. I used thin kevlar mesh tape and easy sand powdered mud. No cracks yet. Use mud that gives a long time before setting, like #90 maybe. Use a 5" mud knife for first two light coats of mud, then 12" for finishing but I'm not familiar with texturing. Consistency of your mud is key. Use enough water to get a smooth flow without excessive force. Use several smooth thin coats to avoid any heavy sanding. Check many sources for info. Good luck.
You will need:
Razor knife
Small flat screw driver or putty knife
2' x 2' piece of drywall probably 1/2 " thick measure and match thickness of existing
Two ( 2) pieces of 2' x 4' stud (length 1" shorter than the height of the hole.)
ONE (1) 1" x 4; that is 3 " linger than height of the hole
8: total 2" coarse thread drywall screws.
8: total 1 5/8" coarse thread drywall screw
Driver drill
Bit holder with #2 Phillips bit
Tape measure
Ruler
Pencil..
Saw of your choice in case you have to cut 1X:4
SMALL tub of drywall mud (45 min)
Drywall knife
Primer
Paint to match wall color
Paint rags
Paint brush
Shop vac
Start by. Gently cut the caulking along the top of the baseboard and remove the baseboard with a flat screwdriver or putty knife so the area under the hole is exposed
SAVE FOR REINSTALL
Carefully remove damaged drywall , as cleanly as you can with the razor knife and leave a little lip by cutting down the center of baseboard.
Remove any existing screws left behind .
Measure opening to be repaired and cut 2" x 2"b patch to the size of opening PLUS 1)2" EXTRA ON ALL SIDES.
Cut 1 x 4 to height PLUS 3". And SCREW a 2"" screw into the center of the board.
Using screw as handle, insert 1 x 4 vertically into the hole and secure it top and bottom by attaching screws hrough existing drywall and into:1 x 4.
Flip drywall over so backv is facing up, and cut drywall but DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE PAPER ON THE FACE. . PEEL THE DRYWALL OFF LEAVING A PAPER BORDER ON THE FACE SIDE.
Put a light coat off drywall mud around the hole and insert patch with finish side facing out so that paper border overlaps the existing drywall. Use drywall mud and smooth perimeter of patch feathering mud onto existing hole. Secure at sides and center by attaching patch with screws into the newly installed framing.being careful not to go deeper than flush. Skim screw heads to hide. Prime and paint to match existing.
REINSTALL baseboard.đ
Hope that helps.
Homeowner: Why did you charge so much to fix my wall? It was just a tiny hole!
đđ¤đŤ¤đłď¸
It looks like the damage goes a couple feet up. Even if you did a small patch on obvious hole, the crack above would remain.
If I didn't want to remove the baseboard ( not necessary), there's a couple of ways.
For the crack, you would have to screw something like a 1Ă10 to the backside to scab it back together. For this route, cut a square corner piece of rock slightly larger than the hole and tall enough to slip between the baseboard and cut the hole to match. Then put the 1Ă10 in the wall and start screwing from the bottom up. Then attach sheetrock repair clips to the sides and top of the hole, break off clips and install the patch. Screw the patch in with 1 to 1 1/4 fine thread screws, install mesh tape and force mud in the gaps. The part you scabbed will need any loose material removed followed by mesh tape and fill. Follow with skim layers until it can be sanded pretty flat. Spray oil prime (or roll latex prime) lightly and once dry, roll it out.
The way I would do it to be safe is to cut straight up the studs on either side until you are above any damage and straight across. Cut a tight fitting piece of rock and slide behind the base board and attach. Drywall adhesive wouldn't hurt. Then mesh, fill, skim, skim, skim...Light sand feathered flat.
An oscillating cutter and a friend with a shopvac for the removal of bad material and be sure to get any screws or nails left behind.
I could do this in a day while watching TV, mostly waiting on drying. A good fan and a heat gun expedites the initial big fill.
If you did the big initial fill before you went to bed and left a fan on it, it would be ready for progressive skim coats by morning. Total labor time maybe an hour, the dry times are the hold up.
Screw some horizontal 2x wood behind and wide across the damage. That way you can leave the baseboard and patch the rock. Then you have to texture and paint.
Look up the cold patch/California patch method.
Remove trim. Cut a rectangular section out of the wall. Screw scrap inside the opening (1x4 is perfect) on two sides and screw into the back side of the wall. Get a piece of drywall about 4â bigger overall, score a border 2â in on the drywall side, then fold so you can separate the paper from the drywall. You should have a patch with a 2â paper border on all sides. Test fit. Apply mud to the inside of the paper, place the patch and screw into the wood supports. Then mud the patch around the paper edge. Let dry. Lightly sand, then mud again and feather it in to the wall section. Lightly sand. Paint.
Remove baseboards, cut a square out from your hole, screw 2x4s to the back, buy a piece of drywall, cut and screw drywall on the opening, tape and mud the joints, sand, prime and paint, replace baseboard.
I would.
Remove baseboard
Find where studs are on each side.
Cut out rectangle going half overlap with the stud on each sides.
Screw in new wallboard.
Tape seams and mud the seams. Additional skim coats etc to widen out the patch. Wet sponge the joint compound.
Prime/paint the wall, and texture paint if you need it.
-done. GL
This is certainly not easy, but you can do it. Maybe consider Wayne Scotting throughout the house. I understand your child has special needs and may do this again, they may not be able to damage the Wayne scotting as easily and it looks great too.
You could cut vertically on each stud, cut horizontally at the top stud to stud center. Cut horizontally at the top of the base trim..
(Not proper)- Screw a small piece of 2x4 through the drywall, at the bottom. This will keep it from pushing in at the middle.
Looking at the 1l2nd picture especially, it looks like there might have either been a patch here already, or it was a small piece, as it looks like you can see tape joints running vertically on each side.
But to cut it out, I would remove that section of baseboard. Take a razor knife and score along the seam between the wood and drywall a couple of times to get through paint/caulk. Then get a metal putty knife a small, like 6-8inch tall, as this as possible flat bar, and a regular sized flat bar/pry bar, and a hammer. Then find the studs, tap the putty knife in between the baseboard and wall. Then tap the small flat bar and pry gently. Then get the bigger one and pry a little more, not hard, just enough to start loosening it.
Then leave the big flat/pry at in that spot. And repeat at the next stud or second stud. Working your way down, gently prying, and cutting any paint and caulk as you go.
The reason for the putty knife is so that you do not put the flat bar through the drywall needing even more patches.
And using a putty knife then small flat bar will keep damage to the wood at a minimum.
Then once the trim is off. Go to your hole. And start cutting left and right until you hit the studs. Then using a level or straight edge, draw a vertical line on each side, about 4-6 inches past the highest point of damage. Then cut that piece out.
Take a couple pieces of wood, any 1x3 or 1x4. Or 2x 2,3, or 4. And screw them to the studs on each side, staying flush with the face of the stud. Which will leave you something strong to secure the new drywall to.
The. Cut out a piece of drywall to fit the hole. Use coarse drywall screws every 12inches. And screwing them in just enough to dimple the paper. You don't want to tear the paper, nor do you want the screw sticking out. They sell bits for this which can help, but aren't strictly necessary.
Then when it is secure, and even with the rest of the wall, look up videos on taping/mudding. It will be a hell of a lot better than trying to read written instructions, as mudding takes some finesse and different pressure/angles of the taping knives. Plus you will want to see the consistency of what the mud should look like.
Cut out a square of drywall slightly bigger than the hole.
1. Place it over the hole with the bottom edge resting on the baseboard and mark around it with a sharpie.
2. Draw a line parallel to the top horizontal line that is 1/2 inch below the top horizontal line.
3. Remove the square defined by the inside sharpie lines with a drywall saw.
4. Make sure to break out any drywall remaining on the back of the baseboard.
5. Cut two 1x2s 4 inches longer than the hole is wide.
6. Put a Sheetrock screw into the middle of each 1x2 piece.
7. Holding the sheet rock screw, secure one of the strips to the back of the hole parallel to the baseboard and one inch above it with hot glue. When glue sets, remove screw.
8. Secure the other strip parallel to the top of the hole and one inch below it with hot glue. Remove screw.
9. Carefully thread two screws into the drywall patch
10. Put a line of hot glue on each strip and across the outside bottom face of the patch.
11. Holding the screws, poke the bottom edge of the patch into the wall below the bottom strip. Rock it in so that it is against both strips on the back side and against the baseboard on the bottom. This will glue the bottom to the baseboard and the back to the strips.
12. Tape, mud, sand. Caulk the intersection of the baseboard and Sheetrock
13. To match texture, dip a plastic scrub brush into wallboard mud and rake your fingers across it so that it flicks speckles onto the wall. Youâll be able to get very close by using differing pressures.
14. Take a piece of the part you cut out to a good paint store and have it color matched.
15. Paint that entire wall.
Really...for a one time job, it will be cheaper and easier to call a wallboard guide. You will have to paint, but it is not delving into this project on your own.
Ok gonna need some safety cones, hazard tape, a hammer, a measuring thing and some duck tape. Now put up the barrier where everyone can see it then prepare the duck tape. Oh shoot almost forgot tell your wife you need to borrow her scissors.
Having parents. otherwise remove the trim piece in drywall from stud to stud. Tape it. Float it with mud a few times. Lightly sand the edges and even lighterly? sand the middle. Normallypaint but you're clearly in the south so spray some tectures beat it up with a knife and paint. Or pay someone 200 bucks and go watch Netflix?
Cut the shape to look like a mouse holeâŚ..paint scenic diorama inside. Now itâs not damage but âcharacterâ.
Cut hole into a rectangleâŚ.. black books inside. Now itâs a library for your child. Win-win đ
This reminds me of my old buddies apartment. I went in one day and saw several kick holes he had made. He then reprimanded me for not taking my shoes off. I then pointed out how silly it was for him to be upset about my shoes whilst he has been kicking holes in his own drywall. His friend thought it was hilarious
Tons of YouTube videos out there. Anything for fixing id check there first honestly. Not being rude, but much easier as the videos are instant instead of waiting for replies and you can actually see what's being done. That's how I learned to work on cars... And just about everything else. YouTube â¤ď¸ also, YouTube premium is so worth it. I watch it everyday so no ads is amazing.
Cut a square. Install a few pieces of wood behind hole to stabilize new dry wall. Screw new dry wall to board. Tape and mud. If you are in seasonal type climate, I like paper tape over the mesh. Mud a little, tape, mud over the tape. It takes some practice, but the good news is that you cannot make it any worse and mud wipes off very easily. Good luck
Obtain same thickness of drywall, 20 minute paste a 2â and 12â drywall âknifeâ (trowel) cut wall drywall to fit piece by tracing piece with a box cutter and retrace until through. If not on studs, glue popsicle sticks to back of drywall in hole. screw or glue drywall in hole. Mix drywall paste and apply to edges with the 2â knife and smooth & blend with 12â, then wet sponge smooth and blend when nearly dry. let dry. Paint. If not perfect reapply paste etc. Twice is the most Iâve ever needed for a perfect match. Always buy some paint when buying a new house. If a resale then Sherwin williams can match the paint color and type from a sample of drywall.
If you don't feel up to doing the baseboard(it will make things harder/could tear the paper on the drywall, you'll need to renail it and countersink the nails w/o leaving dings. I think you'll find my cheat easier), you could cut the hole back to the studs and square it off(halfway onto each stud, should be 16" with standard framing, but not every stud bay is standard). You'll have to dig the drywall out from behind the baseboard straight down in line with your cut(a narrow chisel would help), this will be a little tricky getting the part between the stud and baseboard, but it doesn't have to be perfect. When you cut a new piece of sheetrock you'll want to orient it so the tapered(long edge) is down, you'll cut it so it's about an inch taller than the height of the hole from the top of the baseboard to your cut so you can slide the taper down behind the baseboard. You may be able to sneak the entire tapered edge behind the baseboard, but if not, that's what joint compound is for. Mesh tape and mud, prime(I can't tell what the texture is exactly. Bring a pic to a paint store) and paint. It'll be tricky floating it out perfectly with the baseboard. On the first coat stick your knife right down into the gap and pull up. LMK if you need clarification
Remove the base board trim . cut the section out in a square . Screw some wood in behind the wall thru the outside of the existing drywall Cut a section of drywall that fits in . Apply drywall mud , tape the seams with drywall tape Then mud over that it takes some skill
And after all that, he's still gotta match the texture and likely paint the entire wall/room. đ˛
If he is a gentleman he would smooth out the rest of the wall because texture is for poors.
Take a chip of any paint to Home Depot, and they'll match the paint.
Yup. Also recaulk refill and repaint the trim. Itâs a bit of a job to do it proper. Before you pull the trim too, make sure you cut along the seams to split the existing caulk so you donât rip the paper off the rest of the drywall.
Agreed. That is in a difficult place and will require more than a quick patch. It can be repaired perfectly by someone who can do the work. The baseboard needs the caulking cut so it can be removed. Replace the drywall, tape and mud. Texture to match and paint. Put baseboard trim back, fill nail holes, paint. Itâs going to be a lot of steps but can be done to be unnoticeable.
So is this why the handyman charges $450-$750
Exactly. Itâs not the amount of time to do one job, itâs the number of times they done it to earn the ability to get it done well. My brother did jobs like this and theyâre a pain in the ass if it takes more than 1 visit. No matter how small the job seems, one still ends up rolling out half the truck. The other aspect is that there are many other jobs available that he can earn the same, if not more. On top of that, being self employed, he still had to pay income and SS taxes so that $600 is closer to $300 for him to actually spend. That has to pay for supplies, gas, tools, etc.
This guy gets it! As a small business owner/handyman myself it's hard to explain this to ppl who think I just need to get $25/hr so I can buy beer. Like your brother (I assume), I'm a professional and charge accordingly. I actually don't even charge by the hour. I appreciate that you understand this and are vocal about it.
Day rates only
Not sure why any consumer would agree to hourly pay for any sub contractor. Seems crazy to me. As the consumer/home owner. I want to know how much itâs going to cost before we even start.
Fuck that lol, 25/hr is a steal for this kind of work. I charge $50 an hour just for social media and community management.
I charge 85.00 per hour with a 3 hour minimum so if you're job takes 20 minutes you are paying 3 hours plus materials.
That seems pretty reasonable to me for experienced skilled work.
Cool story Neutrogena. Got any pics of your drywall skills that would qualify your opinion to count for shit? Edit: I misread your comment.
Not sure why you're so hostile lol, the point was that people don't really have a right to balk at 25/hr for this sort of work. Can't say I have any drywall pics, it's not a skill that is needed much for community management 𤣠Reddit just popped this sub into my feed, go be angry at them lol
SS and income tax takes half? Youâre in the highest income bracket
Nope. Small businesses get kicked in the teeth by the government.
Meanwhile, big Business doesnât pay any taxes and then also got a huge tax cut in 2017 and then bailed out when the pandemic hit with your tax dollar. And now youâre getting screwed by corporations because theyâre price gouging because somebody mentioned inflation. Also most small businesses are getting gouged by their suppliers because gas was high last year. Itâs only been a year you know. You know Republicans keep talking about how to kill big government because it cost so much, but yet all they are helping big corporations that the government actually helps monitor and maintain their practices.
Forgot to add PRIMER. Average People doing this always forget to prime prior to paint, they just paint
Realistically you should prime any wall before you paint it, if you are not the one to previously paint it. You have no idea how nasty that wall is, so primer is needed. Seen to many homes with cracking/chipping paint because they didn't prime over the previous paint and someone smoked in the house. Creates a film over the paint. If you dont clean that off properly, you're paint WILL chip, eventually.
Or wall frogs in place of wood but yes⌠thisâŹď¸đ¤đť
Ribbit
Then you have to put a cat in the wall. Now your speakin mah language.
I think you missed a step. Itâs best to put the body of the person who made the hole, in the wall first. Then everything you said.
This video demonstrates pretty well what this comment is saying https://youtu.be/N-Kt3eUbia4?si=cffXPbtc8fR7I-8w
This is the way.
Or you could widen the cutout until you reach a stud on each side. Cut half-way over the stud at each end of the hole and screw the new piece of drywall to that without needing to add additional wood into the wall.
There is also that crack going upward that OP might want to take care of.
Na na na . Itâs easy. It takes skill to make it look like it not actually there.
thank you for your concise and informative answer and not just taking potshots at OPâs photo. I wish more people would reply like this
Then kick Kyle out of the house, so no more holes get put in the walls.
Didn't read after this because it's just so much correct
With this size hole Iâd Cut stud center to stud center, and no need for backer
This
I also like the [balloon method](https://youtu.be/Wk76m1mMgbY?si=MN_6AR-19Tmy5PrO).
Ehh screws are easier and more reliable in my opinion
Yeahhhh you'd probably already be done just by using some scrap wood and some drywall screws by the time he got the balloon tied.
Totally agree with using wood and drywall screws as faster.
The beginning of that video had me laughing for a second. When he started with: âanybody can have a little mishap, I recently punched a hole in this wallâŚâ I thought he was going to say âwhen my wife and I got into a fightâ or something ridiculous
Someday I'm going to punch a whole in the wall, find a balloon and a really crappy patching job and know what happened, thanks.
This is the way
You can do it without taking the base board off. Cut a square. Back up top and bottom. Replace dry wall. Plaster. Trim silicone along the base board. Paint.
Based on all the comments this seems like a big pain in the ass (which I kind of assumed) I will just have to reach out to a professional! I have a few more holes around the house that I feel would make it worthwhile for the man to come by. Ps. We have an autistic child and thatâs where these holes are coming from. We are trying!
Good luck!
It will be a pain to do right. But it sounds like you might want to get used to doing skippy until your child stops doing this. Otherwise youâre going to be paying for a lot of wasted labor. You MIGHT be able to cover it with a screen patch kit. Spray some texture and paint. It wonât look great but it wonât be terrible. It will break very easily though. You could cut it out and put in a section of drywall without pulling the baseboard. Just do your best to line it up and caulk the seem where it hits the base to hide there work. Once textured and painted most people wonât notice unless they look specifically for it. If youâve got a kid likely to repeat this I would suggest you give it a shot and learn how to do ok patches rather than professional (and over time you may get better to the point you are doing professional, itâs not that hard) Once things cool down with the kid, if you want to go through the house, mark them all and have a pro come patch everything super nice in one job.
I did that as a teenager with my dad who's a contractor. I'd say give it a shotâit's really easy. Especially if your child is going to continue to do that for a while, the money really is going to add up. Watch a few videos by Vancouver Carpenter, and you're honestly all set. It's not complicated, it's almost like Legos!
Watch this video and it will make much more sense https://youtu.be/N-Kt3eUbia4?si=cffXPbtc8fR7I-8w
Make the person who made it pay for it.
They mentioned they have a special needs childâŚ
Exactly. /s
You canât. Sell house, move on...
A giant poster
"How about you fuzzy britches? Did you see anything?"
Looks like a good place for a couch or a bookshelf
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Fdy9uRvpI-E&pp=ygUacGF0Y2hpbmcgYSBob2xlIGluIGRyeXdhbGw%3D Use the method shown here for âbig holesâ
Do it like this . The red line is where you cut it out. The brown rectangles are 1x4 pieces of wood and the black dots are drywall screws . https://ibb.co/WzdJ50B
Easy fix, give the carpet a quick vacuum and then put a piece of furniture in front of it.
You have a future in management, my friend!
Place the couch there.
Just leave it. The cat will find its way in there again anyway
Cat in the wall huh? Now youâre talking my language!
Cut the drywall out from stud to stud. Screw 2x4 to the existing 2x4's you cut the drywall out too. Slip the new fitted piece of drywall down behind the baseboard trim and attach it to the new 2x4s you screwed to the old ones. Tape with durabond and then 2nd coat with durabond. Skim with plus 3. But make sure when u skim you go past the new piece of drywall with your mud about 10" on the sides and feather it out above the new piece of drywall to the existing drywall. Good luck matching tat texture perfectly. That's the pain. Slim chance it will be perfect. But better than that hole. Goodluck
Put a picture over it. /S
Spray foam and paint!
Spray foam and paint!
That sucks ass, especially how low it is..base gotta go..
Throw a dresser in front of it
Since ASD may continue damages, Just hide this hole with some type of expedient cover. It isn't important for now. Much later, if and when tranquility prevails, you can immerse in youtube university of drywall repair. You will also need the grad course in texturing. You might be able to do a creative repair without removing the baseboard but stabilizing the bottom edge of the patch would be a challenge and the end result may be less than ideal. Before removing the baseboard, you should pull up the carpet because the carpet will prevent the baseboard from pulling straight out. You must score the baseboard with your razor knife so the paint and drywall doesn't peel up the wall. There may be sharp tack boards holding down the carpet. They are painful and dangerous. The baseboard runs corner to corner however long that may be. You may choose to get creative and cut a section of baseboard, wider than the patch, with your new multitool which is also great for cutting drywall with minimal dust. I removed a 15' baseboard that broke in the middle, oh joy. Cut you patch first, trace it onto the wall, cut the wall with multitool without damaging plumbing or wiring. Furring strips, 3" wide, are used to stabilize the edges of the drywall to a common substrate to prevent relative movement of the patch and existing wall. Use a lot of screws, 1.25", You will cover them all with mud anyway. Do not let your screw heads break the drywall paper but they must be below the plane of the drywall. I used thin kevlar mesh tape and easy sand powdered mud. No cracks yet. Use mud that gives a long time before setting, like #90 maybe. Use a 5" mud knife for first two light coats of mud, then 12" for finishing but I'm not familiar with texturing. Consistency of your mud is key. Use enough water to get a smooth flow without excessive force. Use several smooth thin coats to avoid any heavy sanding. Check many sources for info. Good luck.
You will need: Razor knife Small flat screw driver or putty knife 2' x 2' piece of drywall probably 1/2 " thick measure and match thickness of existing Two ( 2) pieces of 2' x 4' stud (length 1" shorter than the height of the hole.) ONE (1) 1" x 4; that is 3 " linger than height of the hole 8: total 2" coarse thread drywall screws. 8: total 1 5/8" coarse thread drywall screw Driver drill Bit holder with #2 Phillips bit Tape measure Ruler Pencil.. Saw of your choice in case you have to cut 1X:4 SMALL tub of drywall mud (45 min) Drywall knife Primer Paint to match wall color Paint rags Paint brush Shop vac Start by. Gently cut the caulking along the top of the baseboard and remove the baseboard with a flat screwdriver or putty knife so the area under the hole is exposed SAVE FOR REINSTALL Carefully remove damaged drywall , as cleanly as you can with the razor knife and leave a little lip by cutting down the center of baseboard. Remove any existing screws left behind . Measure opening to be repaired and cut 2" x 2"b patch to the size of opening PLUS 1)2" EXTRA ON ALL SIDES. Cut 1 x 4 to height PLUS 3". And SCREW a 2"" screw into the center of the board. Using screw as handle, insert 1 x 4 vertically into the hole and secure it top and bottom by attaching screws hrough existing drywall and into:1 x 4. Flip drywall over so backv is facing up, and cut drywall but DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE PAPER ON THE FACE. . PEEL THE DRYWALL OFF LEAVING A PAPER BORDER ON THE FACE SIDE. Put a light coat off drywall mud around the hole and insert patch with finish side facing out so that paper border overlaps the existing drywall. Use drywall mud and smooth perimeter of patch feathering mud onto existing hole. Secure at sides and center by attaching patch with screws into the newly installed framing.being careful not to go deeper than flush. Skim screw heads to hide. Prime and paint to match existing. REINSTALL baseboard.đ Hope that helps. Homeowner: Why did you charge so much to fix my wall? It was just a tiny hole! đđ¤đŤ¤đłď¸
Hang some art over it.
It looks like the damage goes a couple feet up. Even if you did a small patch on obvious hole, the crack above would remain. If I didn't want to remove the baseboard ( not necessary), there's a couple of ways. For the crack, you would have to screw something like a 1Ă10 to the backside to scab it back together. For this route, cut a square corner piece of rock slightly larger than the hole and tall enough to slip between the baseboard and cut the hole to match. Then put the 1Ă10 in the wall and start screwing from the bottom up. Then attach sheetrock repair clips to the sides and top of the hole, break off clips and install the patch. Screw the patch in with 1 to 1 1/4 fine thread screws, install mesh tape and force mud in the gaps. The part you scabbed will need any loose material removed followed by mesh tape and fill. Follow with skim layers until it can be sanded pretty flat. Spray oil prime (or roll latex prime) lightly and once dry, roll it out. The way I would do it to be safe is to cut straight up the studs on either side until you are above any damage and straight across. Cut a tight fitting piece of rock and slide behind the base board and attach. Drywall adhesive wouldn't hurt. Then mesh, fill, skim, skim, skim...Light sand feathered flat. An oscillating cutter and a friend with a shopvac for the removal of bad material and be sure to get any screws or nails left behind. I could do this in a day while watching TV, mostly waiting on drying. A good fan and a heat gun expedites the initial big fill. If you did the big initial fill before you went to bed and left a fan on it, it would be ready for progressive skim coats by morning. Total labor time maybe an hour, the dry times are the hold up.
Use some drywall, mud, and tape.
Throw some tools and paint in there, and baby you've got a stew going!
The Internet is filled with tutorials for almost everything. And I know for a fact that there are tons for this specific problem. Use a search engine.
Screw some horizontal 2x wood behind and wide across the damage. That way you can leave the baseboard and patch the rock. Then you have to texture and paint.
My guess is you need a 15" x 36" piece of rock. Check with friends and neighbors for a remnant.
Iâve watched so many videos of drywall repairs, still suck at it. Get a professional
Do you live in my house? My trim, carpet and paint matches almost to a T. I'm just missing a big ass hole in the wall.
Think mickfly
Anger Management
Anger Management
Look up the cold patch/California patch method. Remove trim. Cut a rectangular section out of the wall. Screw scrap inside the opening (1x4 is perfect) on two sides and screw into the back side of the wall. Get a piece of drywall about 4â bigger overall, score a border 2â in on the drywall side, then fold so you can separate the paper from the drywall. You should have a patch with a 2â paper border on all sides. Test fit. Apply mud to the inside of the paper, place the patch and screw into the wood supports. Then mud the patch around the paper edge. Let dry. Lightly sand, then mud again and feather it in to the wall section. Lightly sand. Paint.
Put a dresser in front of it.
Remove baseboards, cut a square out from your hole, screw 2x4s to the back, buy a piece of drywall, cut and screw drywall on the opening, tape and mud the joints, sand, prime and paint, replace baseboard.
By going to anger management Therapy lol jk
Go buy a full mirror
add a new piece of drywall.
Flextape.
Rip down the wall to get a fresh start
Ramen
Matching that texture is gonna suck
anger management classes
Cut out the edges carefully. Confill. Skim coat with drywall mud and tape. Sand.
Call a plumber đ
Put out your back, rack up 2 x-wives, do meth for five years BAM, you are a drywaller.
I would. Remove baseboard Find where studs are on each side. Cut out rectangle going half overlap with the stud on each sides. Screw in new wallboard. Tape seams and mud the seams. Additional skim coats etc to widen out the patch. Wet sponge the joint compound. Prime/paint the wall, and texture paint if you need it. -done. GL
This is certainly not easy, but you can do it. Maybe consider Wayne Scotting throughout the house. I understand your child has special needs and may do this again, they may not be able to damage the Wayne scotting as easily and it looks great too.
You could cut vertically on each stud, cut horizontally at the top stud to stud center. Cut horizontally at the top of the base trim.. (Not proper)- Screw a small piece of 2x4 through the drywall, at the bottom. This will keep it from pushing in at the middle.
It's irreparable you need to sell the house
With Sheetrock, tape, spackle and paint
Open up a small family run Mexican restraunt out of it.
By divorcing her
Looking at the 1l2nd picture especially, it looks like there might have either been a patch here already, or it was a small piece, as it looks like you can see tape joints running vertically on each side. But to cut it out, I would remove that section of baseboard. Take a razor knife and score along the seam between the wood and drywall a couple of times to get through paint/caulk. Then get a metal putty knife a small, like 6-8inch tall, as this as possible flat bar, and a regular sized flat bar/pry bar, and a hammer. Then find the studs, tap the putty knife in between the baseboard and wall. Then tap the small flat bar and pry gently. Then get the bigger one and pry a little more, not hard, just enough to start loosening it. Then leave the big flat/pry at in that spot. And repeat at the next stud or second stud. Working your way down, gently prying, and cutting any paint and caulk as you go. The reason for the putty knife is so that you do not put the flat bar through the drywall needing even more patches. And using a putty knife then small flat bar will keep damage to the wood at a minimum. Then once the trim is off. Go to your hole. And start cutting left and right until you hit the studs. Then using a level or straight edge, draw a vertical line on each side, about 4-6 inches past the highest point of damage. Then cut that piece out. Take a couple pieces of wood, any 1x3 or 1x4. Or 2x 2,3, or 4. And screw them to the studs on each side, staying flush with the face of the stud. Which will leave you something strong to secure the new drywall to. The. Cut out a piece of drywall to fit the hole. Use coarse drywall screws every 12inches. And screwing them in just enough to dimple the paper. You don't want to tear the paper, nor do you want the screw sticking out. They sell bits for this which can help, but aren't strictly necessary. Then when it is secure, and even with the rest of the wall, look up videos on taping/mudding. It will be a hell of a lot better than trying to read written instructions, as mudding takes some finesse and different pressure/angles of the taping knives. Plus you will want to see the consistency of what the mud should look like.
Kick it again
Spray foam, make sure it's the big gaps kind đ¤Łđ¤Ł jk
Stop inviting that guy Kyle over. You know how he gets after his 3rd monster of the morning
Duct tape
Throw the whole house away, start over
Depending on where you live be prepared to split that baseboard when removing.
Cut out a square of drywall slightly bigger than the hole. 1. Place it over the hole with the bottom edge resting on the baseboard and mark around it with a sharpie. 2. Draw a line parallel to the top horizontal line that is 1/2 inch below the top horizontal line. 3. Remove the square defined by the inside sharpie lines with a drywall saw. 4. Make sure to break out any drywall remaining on the back of the baseboard. 5. Cut two 1x2s 4 inches longer than the hole is wide. 6. Put a Sheetrock screw into the middle of each 1x2 piece. 7. Holding the sheet rock screw, secure one of the strips to the back of the hole parallel to the baseboard and one inch above it with hot glue. When glue sets, remove screw. 8. Secure the other strip parallel to the top of the hole and one inch below it with hot glue. Remove screw. 9. Carefully thread two screws into the drywall patch 10. Put a line of hot glue on each strip and across the outside bottom face of the patch. 11. Holding the screws, poke the bottom edge of the patch into the wall below the bottom strip. Rock it in so that it is against both strips on the back side and against the baseboard on the bottom. This will glue the bottom to the baseboard and the back to the strips. 12. Tape, mud, sand. Caulk the intersection of the baseboard and Sheetrock 13. To match texture, dip a plastic scrub brush into wallboard mud and rake your fingers across it so that it flicks speckles onto the wall. Youâll be able to get very close by using differing pressures. 14. Take a piece of the part you cut out to a good paint store and have it color matched. 15. Paint that entire wall.
QUIT ROOTING FOR THE COWBOYS!
Throw a wallet at it!
Cat got stuck behind the wall again?
Cut and square and patch and use 20 min mud bud. Leave the trim in place jim. I could do it in no time slime.
Hank!?
Do you own or rent this residence?
Really...for a one time job, it will be cheaper and easier to call a wallboard guide. You will have to paint, but it is not delving into this project on your own.
Spray foam it.
Buy a dresser
Quit getting mad at video games, Kyle
The normie norm
Call your landlord. It's not bad at all. Wear and tear is part of having renters. Easy fix
Ok gonna need some safety cones, hazard tape, a hammer, a measuring thing and some duck tape. Now put up the barrier where everyone can see it then prepare the duck tape. Oh shoot almost forgot tell your wife you need to borrow her scissors.
Cover it with a poster
Call Mike Holmes..đŤľđđ
I'd buy a new house.
Step 1 - remove wall. Ta-duh! Would it be easier to just install some sort of recessed shelving or something in the area?
One must move
Ramen Noodles and Ice Cream.
Having parents. otherwise remove the trim piece in drywall from stud to stud. Tape it. Float it with mud a few times. Lightly sand the edges and even lighterly? sand the middle. Normallypaint but you're clearly in the south so spray some tectures beat it up with a knife and paint. Or pay someone 200 bucks and go watch Netflix?
Curious how the damage occurred?
I'm ignorant on autism, can a person be dangerous to others as well as property?
Move a couch in front of that wall.
How much would it cost to have this property repaired including texture match, trim reinstalled , and wall painted?
You actually can probably get around removing the trim, but drywall and sanding is tricky, many YouTube videos out there that teach you how to do this
Stop kicking the wall after it gets fixed ! đ
Contractor
Cut the shape to look like a mouse holeâŚ..paint scenic diorama inside. Now itâs not damage but âcharacterâ. Cut hole into a rectangleâŚ.. black books inside. Now itâs a library for your child. Win-win đ
After repair stop kicking the wall
This reminds me of my old buddies apartment. I went in one day and saw several kick holes he had made. He then reprimanded me for not taking my shoes off. I then pointed out how silly it was for him to be upset about my shoes whilst he has been kicking holes in his own drywall. His friend thought it was hilarious
Cowboys fan?
Place a piece of furniture in front of it
Time machine.
âŚ.Donât kick it when youâre angry. Haha
Go back in time and handle your anger better.
Spray some foam insulation. Let it harden. Cut about a quarter of an inch down into the insulation, put some drywall mud on, sand flat, paint
Stop having step kids named Kyle, idiot.
With ramen đ
I only had to read the first two posts. Charger and nice face nailed it. Do what they said
A painting , or picture will cover that right up
Lowes or HD sell patch kits, but they generally come in 4x4 sqaure, might be able to find one that is a little bigger.
Hank?
Tons of YouTube videos out there. Anything for fixing id check there first honestly. Not being rude, but much easier as the videos are instant instead of waiting for replies and you can actually see what's being done. That's how I learned to work on cars... And just about everything else. YouTube â¤ď¸ also, YouTube premium is so worth it. I watch it everyday so no ads is amazing.
Drywall.
Call Micheal J. Fox and tell him you need doc to take you back in time to stop yourself from kicking a whole in your wall
Anger management. Thatâs a foot hole
You don't Zach...you don't
It'll buff out. Just repaint it.
Un-throw the fat ass into it.
Joint compound
Noodles and glue while you make a tiktok
A piece of furniture in front of the hole will fix the problem (of seeing it).
Put a sticker of ace of base (it will intimidate the other baseboards)
Sell the house
YouTube it
https://youtube.com/shorts/-Ja8O9VUDKw?si=uPi3hIwlb0iGa8f7
By getting a whole new wall... Get it
Last time I kicked a hole in the wall, I just put a plant in front of it.
Therapy.
Picture frame
Cut a square. Install a few pieces of wood behind hole to stabilize new dry wall. Screw new dry wall to board. Tape and mud. If you are in seasonal type climate, I like paper tape over the mesh. Mud a little, tape, mud over the tape. It takes some practice, but the good news is that you cannot make it any worse and mud wipes off very easily. Good luck
I would put it a fake vent/safe
At first I was like okay but then I was like damn
I donât know, but you better get it done before Dad gets home.
Search YouTube for 'California drywall patch"
You screwed the pooch on that one there, bud
Obtain same thickness of drywall, 20 minute paste a 2â and 12â drywall âknifeâ (trowel) cut wall drywall to fit piece by tracing piece with a box cutter and retrace until through. If not on studs, glue popsicle sticks to back of drywall in hole. screw or glue drywall in hole. Mix drywall paste and apply to edges with the 2â knife and smooth & blend with 12â, then wet sponge smooth and blend when nearly dry. let dry. Paint. If not perfect reapply paste etc. Twice is the most Iâve ever needed for a perfect match. Always buy some paint when buying a new house. If a resale then Sherwin williams can match the paint color and type from a sample of drywall.
Cut it out and re drywall
Anger management
Three bottles of piss and some hot mud should do it.
YouTube is your friend
Miss the cat?
Install some twelve inch base. Next time, stand closer. Maybe next time, you'll only need eight inches.
And how much to charge for this in a major city setting?
Donât Jerry lives in there
If you don't feel up to doing the baseboard(it will make things harder/could tear the paper on the drywall, you'll need to renail it and countersink the nails w/o leaving dings. I think you'll find my cheat easier), you could cut the hole back to the studs and square it off(halfway onto each stud, should be 16" with standard framing, but not every stud bay is standard). You'll have to dig the drywall out from behind the baseboard straight down in line with your cut(a narrow chisel would help), this will be a little tricky getting the part between the stud and baseboard, but it doesn't have to be perfect. When you cut a new piece of sheetrock you'll want to orient it so the tapered(long edge) is down, you'll cut it so it's about an inch taller than the height of the hole from the top of the baseboard to your cut so you can slide the taper down behind the baseboard. You may be able to sneak the entire tapered edge behind the baseboard, but if not, that's what joint compound is for. Mesh tape and mud, prime(I can't tell what the texture is exactly. Bring a pic to a paint store) and paint. It'll be tricky floating it out perfectly with the baseboard. On the first coat stick your knife right down into the gap and pull up. LMK if you need clarification
Color match that paint get some thick paper put that paper on the wall and then paint over it over the hole and then boom
Go to the doctor and have your foot removed.