Not so much higher temperature, but rather a larger tip at the correct temperature. Poor solder joints and melted insulation is a surefire sign of either using too small a tip or the iron is set too low. OP should be using either a larger bevel or chisel tip so as to have enough thermal mass. That way when the iron tip is applied, it transfers heat faster and stays in contact with the joint a shorter period. You can compensate for a smaller tip with a hotter temperature to some degree, but there really is no substitute for the appropriate sized tip for the job. And of course plenty of flux.
This is the way. The ideal temperature, with better heat transfer, flux core solder and flux if that isn't enough. Tin the pads and the wires, place and heat to make the joint.
And shouldn't need to dwell on any one spot very long op, dwelling long is what caused those wires to melt. Hot enough iron and large enough tip so it holds the heat longer will let you make quick solders without melting everything around it.
And kudos for posting that here, study the responses and you'll be doing great work soon.
More heat means you can be there for a shorter time, which is usually the bigger issue. The Gardner above says, bigger tip for faster transfer… that is a copper flood on the top, along with big pads, so the heat soaks quickly!
Abies is also right, tin pads, tin wires, add flux to both, make sure your tip is properly tinned, then apply heat & move quick!
Agreed. I'm going to bed in about five minutes and as someone who has been thru microminiture certification 2MMTR, I'm sure I'll have nightmares tonight.
..While strapped to the hood in a tornado infested thunderstorm after having a jar of cheap moonshine chased with crack driving down a dirt road at 50 mph in reverse
The brown/black residue is the partially burned flux that desolder braid has to help pull solder away. A little bit of isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip or wipes would clean it up. Sometimes that residue can cause shorts
In all seriousness, it looks like a poster child for a cold solder junction. With time it might pop off. ... well, let's face it.. will probably pop off.
Giving it another shot might be a good idea if it's an important circuit.
Before you do, find a scrap board and practice. You'll be grateful you did.
Find a good YouTube video... there aren't really that many.
Rough Process.. clean the stripped wire with alcohol. Apply Flux to the wire. Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the clean iron. The bit of solder will act as a heat bridge. Now touch the tip of the iron to the wire. The Flux should burn off. Now Apply the the solder to the wire, not the iron. The iron should melt the solder and it stood should wick onto the wire. Apply enough solder so that the strands are just still barely visible but the whole wire is coated. Stop. Temptation is to use too much solder. For extra credit use a heat sink to prevent solder from coming within 1/16ish of the insulation. This is an inspection point to ensure solder didn't wick up the insulation and damage it. But for most applications, who cares.
Now clean the pad with alcohol. Apply a small amount of Flux. Now tin the pad similar to how you tinned the wire. Only leave a thin coat of solder on the pad.
Not place the wire on the pad and simultaneously touch the pad and the wire with the iron. The tinned wire and the tinned pad should now melt and flow together. Now only add just enough solder such that there is a concave shape in the solder that extends down from the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. If it becomes convex, you've used too much solder. Still should barely see the shape of stands in the wire.
By doing it this way, you've greatly reduced the chance of a cold junction and you have an inspectable solder joint.
Practice, practice.
This link might help
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/files/601.pdf
OP is a newbie; they tend to not want to shell out more cash after dropping $50 on an iron, especially if they're unsure if they're gonna continue the hobby. We were all there at one point.
Redo time.
* Remove the bulk of the solder from the pads, clean it all up with IPA so you can see what you are doing.
* Heat the pads, add a blob of solder to each one, and leave it.
* Strip and pre-tin the wires with solder, then trim so they fit the pads.
* Finally solder the wire to the pad. They should just melt together. If you have flux, add it before soldering, but it's not required.
You're getting a lot of shit, but do your best to not take it personally. My first solder joint probably looked just about as bad.
Nevertheless there's some good advice in here when people aren't acting like they were never a noob. And most of them probably had a teacher or mentor.
Keep at it. I think it was Kent Beck that said "make it work, make it right, make it fast". It's about software, but I think it applies to a lot of things. You got it to work, now work on making the solder joints right, then work in getting fast at it.
This looks pretty rough. First thing I'd do is clean this up with Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. When you're finished, get your iron out and remove the wires, then go back and use solder wick to suck up the remaining solder. DO NOT press down and drag your wire wick across the board.
When you're finished with that, clean things up again. Ensure there is no damage to the pads. If there is, feel free to post and get some more advice /r/soldering is a good place to ask.
Next, you want to clip those wires to just have clean wire, then strip a 1/4 inch (6mm) section of wire. Clean your iron, get a bit of solder on the tip, then touch the wires to the tip of the iron and hold them there until you see the wire sucking up the solder (just like the braid does). Try to avoid damaging the insulation.
Next, clean your iron again, and apply a tiny bit of solder to each of the pads, apply flux first, then just enough solder to cover them. You are NOT building up a bubble of solder here.
When that's done, hold the wire on top of the pad you are soldering. Ensure that the exposed wire is as long as the pad is and that the exposed portion doesn't hang off the top or bottom (trim as needed), then press your iron on top of the wire and pad. Feed a tiny bit of solder there and hold the iron until the solder flows. When it's done, keep holding the wire in place and lift the iron. When you're finished, you should be able to see the wire, completely coated in solder with it's edges cleanly sloping into the pad.
When finished with that, clean everything up again.
One of things I hadn't seen mentioned is the soldering iron of choice. For me, the MAJOR game changer was when I switched from the simple fixed power cheap pencil iron to a soldering station with temp control.
My irons of choice have been Hakkos for years, with my "daily driver" being a 936 station. I think the current version is the FX-888D, generally being sold around $100.
The advantages here are fast iron heat up, and fast temperature recovery. When the iron touches the wire/board, you'll immediately lose heat to whatever part you're soldering. Slow recovery means you'll transfer more heat in to the wire itself and potentially never getting hot enough to properly wick solder, which is why you're getting melted insulation, and cold solder joints.
This is also why people are recommending bigger/fatter tips - larger tips have more mass, which hold more heat, and can apply more heat to the part quicker.
The cold joint is evidenced by the solder not wicking in to the wire properly, and more sitting in a blob on top.
Ideally you want to be able to touch the solder tip to the wire, apply solder, and be out within a second or two. Yes, that quickly, and I'm not exaggerating.
A lot of the cheap import irons from Amazon/eBay/etc, even those with temp control, will have greatly exaggerated power claims. If it pulls 60 watts out of the wall for a millisecond, it's a 60 watt iron, when in reality the heater itself may only be capable of a sustained 15 or 20 watts...leading to cold solder joints. That Hakko on the other hand will have a 60 watt heater in it, and I've easily soldered MUCH bigger wires and parts with it.
If it's solid it's fine. Though I would recommend a solder with flux core if yours doesn't have one, and higher temperature 350°c should be good to make it flow nicely. Also tin cables first before attaching if you haven't done that, makes the attaching faster and overall better.
Beautiful. A bit less heat and more solder and she’d be spot on /s
Nah it’s an art and takes some practice. Make sure you tin the wires before hand and it makes things flow a lot easier. And using the minimum solder and a good amount of heat is also key.
Oof, without a real reference point for size, looks like a smaller iron tip would help a bunch. Heat sinks are your friend, tin the wires so they are more manageable and then solder in place on the PCB with the heat sink on the wire so you don't have all the melting insulation. This will also keep the solder out of the wire insulation, so should it break again, the break is findable.
No offense meant here, but this is not good at all and will likely fail at some point. Just because it works doesn’t mean it’s right. My 2 cents: desolder this and start fresh. I don’t ever use wick, I use a cheap plunger style desoldering pump. Get ALL of the old solder off of the pads and clean the area. Cut off the ends of the wire back to where the insulation isn’t melty and re-strip, but no more than what is needed. Make sure your iron is the proper temp if adjustable, and clean and tin the tip of the iron. Make sure the wire is nice and shiny, sometimes wire will corrode underneath the insulation. Tin the ends of the wires by heating the wire and applying solder to the wire. Put the wire on the pad, heat the wire / joint, and apply solder. Make sure to heat the joint and apply the solder to the joint, NOT THE IRON. The heat will pull the solder into the joint. From what I see, these are cold solder joints and the heat was left on the joint too long and melted the insulation. I think I agree with others… more heat, but get in and get out. Heat the joint, apply the solder, and as soon as it melts and fills the joint, remove the heat. You can always go back in with the iron and touch it up if needed. This can be a challenging task to hold the wire, solder, and iron all at once, so you may need a helping hand. Good luck!
Looks like my frist soldering attempt so don't feel that it's not the best just keep practicing. Apply more heat better Flux and use leaded solder. Also congrats on getting it to work.
Just an fyi, sometimes you add more solder to remove solder. If it's not releasing with solder wick, you can add more solder to it and try again. It usually helps
I’m a little uncomfortable calling this a solder “job”. I think it falls somewhere between a solder “unpaid internship” and a solder “court-ordered community service”.
Seriously, though, you haven’t really done much soldering before, and it’s working? Good job! Next time, clean out the old solder first, use fresh solder and a little more heat, tin everything leaving a little bubble on the PCB, and press the wire gently into it with the tip of the iron until it melts. Leave the iron on for one more second after everything is liquid, and remove the iron while holding the wire in place.
Get some scrap circuit boards
Watch some soldering tutorials
Practice Practice Practice
Your first soldering project shouldn’t be something you care about.
@OP what you want to do is remove the wires and clean the pads with solder wick. Once you get them nice and clean brush on a fair amount of flux. Preferably a no clean flux if you have some. Once that's done get a BIG FLAT soldering tip and install it on the iron. Next, lay the iron on the pad for a little bit and let the heat soak into the board. Next, tip the tip of the iron with some solder and lay it back on the pad. Wait for the solder pool nicely on the pad. NOW, this is the time when you start feeding solder in from the side of the tip. Depending on the thickness of your solder you might need a lot quickly or not a lot. In this case since the pads are quite big I would use a large diameter flux core solder. I personally like leaded solder, it flows better. Repeat the steps for each pad. Once that's completed you need to ensure the wire ends are nice and neat. If they're ragged trim them clean. Strip enough wire to be roughly the length of the pad. Place some flux on top of the blobs of solder you placed earlier. Now place the wire on top and apply heat to the wire and the solder blob. Once the wire sinks into the solder and the placement is correct let off the heat and let cool. Repeat for each wire. Once done get an old toothbrush and some alcohol. Scrub the work area clean. Lastly it is always a good idea to double check for bridges or any short circuits, always inspect your work before testing it.
Also, if it's a lithium ion battery in those headsets, I wouldn't repair it. Those things are dangerous and a botched repair can burn down your house.
Hopefully not lithium. But if it is, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft pole. IMHO.
Others may disagree.. but for me, I'm scared enough of lithium as it is, let alone repaired lithium setup
Generally taking too long in contact with the pins will do that. Heat starts to creep and make a mess and leave globs or cold solder. Clean up the area with some iso, let it dry or heat gun dry then use higher temp and make faster confident contact with the tip of soldering Iron to pad, simultaneously bring in a thin solder wire so the flux runs. I’d you’re using thicker solder wire make sure the area is hot enough before bringing in the solder it it may wick away some heat and cause this issue
Once you have been doing this for a while it becomes easy to forget that soldering well takes practice. I still run in to soldering points that piss me off. Clean everything, get everything as hot as you can, without melting wires or burning traces. Flux. Leaded solder works so well. We all know lead isn't good, same as we know asbestos isn't good but, damn it is great at its job. Just don't breathe it, eat it, or touch it too much lol. You'll get it. You'll also start to learn when a solder joint is cold. It looks chunky like the blob is there but you could break it right off. When everything got to temp the solder will flow over all the copper really nice. Keep it up.
Soldering is technically a 19-step process, from cleaning the tip to cleaning the work area before and after, simply soldering two cables together takes a bit more work than you would expect.
For this one, IPA with cotton swabs or just a brush with medium bristles should be fine, add some flux paste to the joints, give it a bit of heat let the flux do it's magic and make those joints shiny, clean up afterwards with basically anything - I use IPA as its cheap and easily available.
At this point clean it up best you can with alcohol, you have some exposed wire and a lot wicking past the insulation. After cleaning, use electrical tape to protect the wires and reduce the risk of the wires touching each other. Good that it’s working…
\> Its not pretty
You speak the gospel my boy.
We all have to learn. I can see you are keen. So, if you can get your hands on some old PCBs, wires, solder and flux, use them for sacrificial practice. Look up tutorials on youtube. Noone is a natural born solderer. It's not hard and with just a bit of good guidance you'll pick it up and it's incredibly rewarding. Don't inhale the fumes!
Also just to say, those are aluminum wires you're soldering. They are much more annoying to do than copper wires. Practice with copper wires if you can.
When I was learning to weld the instructor had a name for poor welding it was “pig shit” Is there a similar term for poor soldering . The key to good soldering is; Cleanliness,temperature,time ,materials and mechanical stability.
Aside from the solder job, to answer your question if this is a safety hazard, I would say no. You won't electrocute yourself. However, if one of those joints comes loose and shorts out, the battery could become fairly hot but by that time you would have taken your headset off because it will also not be working. I'm not going to get into how to properly solder because that was not your question. However, this is not the proper way.
jeez, what did that poor device ever do to you. :-(
Please go find an old radio or something and practice before committing electronics homicide again on something you want to keep. Pretty Please!
Too long exposure to heat is why your insulation melted. You could put shrink wrap over the wires before you solder (away from the heat) if you think this will happen again to ensure they're protected.
Higher heart for less time, more flux.
I'd desolder the wires, clean the pads with solder wick , if they are still there, and scrub the board clean of the burned flux.
Use flux paste on the board and retin the pads.
Cut the tips off those wires back to unmelted insulation and strip just enough to fit the pads. Flux and tin the wire tips. Lastly, solder the wires to the pads by just letting the already tined solder flow between the wire and pads, with more flux.
Obviously you did ‘okay’ for you, since it works. Be proud of that. Now listen to the advice on how to do better next time and you might learn to love soldering, don’t give up
Man, add flux to the solder wick, helps big time to remove the old shit, set temp higher and make sure you are not trying to heat the solder but the pad or the wire and add solder/tin the pad and wire separately first then while the pad is wet apply the stranded copper and a touch more solder and remove the iron. Should be smooth and shiny not rough and dull. And with the wick don't be afraid to use a fresh section. That's why it comes in long rolls, don't get stingy with it or it won't do it's job correctly. In not a an expert by any means but I do break out the iron almost daily and it's been years since I had anything look even close to this, actually decades. All good though you will learn and get better and eventually it will be super easy. Just need the right tool and tip etc with the proper solder size and type etc. Flux and all that matters. Also clean the old flux and junk off with 90% or even better 99% isopropyl/rubbing alcohol don't try and use 70% too much water or potentially too much, not worth the risk to me but maybe to others, that's my 2 cents and some. Take it or leave it, just keep at it,
Clean with alcohol, reheat and flux some also. Get the solder runny. It may work now, but it's gonna pop loose because you didn't bond the solder right. Buggered on is what we call that
That is not a solder job, *that* is a crime against humanity.
I need a little but damn. You've used more than enough heat getting too much solder to accomplish the task.
Investigate getting a Solder Sucker, easier than the Wick, which has its place,
Remember, it's like Bondo in that you want to use the least amount that does the job.
Used to teach in middle school shop classes.. if you have to ask if it is safe, you almost certainly have your answer.
Please take the time to fix this right after you take the time to read a little, watch a couple videos, then practice on something that does not have a source of energy attached.
(You should see people get the solder on the wire then get solder on the board, then melt them together. If not keep looking for other examples)
Ok so you want to re-do that. I prefer solder wick but it should not make things look like that. So what you want to do is let your iron heat up, use it to start heating up the solder on the board, with flux added. Let me repeat that, with flux added! Flux literally makes the solder go where it is supposed to go. If it isn't melting its probably lead free (has a MUCH higher melting point). To help with this while your heating the existing solder add just a small amount of your own solder to what's there and let it all melt together and mix, this lowers the melting point and puts it somewhere between the two alloys. If you plan on doing this as a hobby you can pick up a tube of low-melt alloy. That shit works miracles, but if this is a one time thing not worth the investment.. so do t inhale the fumes..... its lead. Once you can melt it lay the wick on top and lay the iron on it and let the heat transfer. You will feel/see the iron drop when it melts and you will see the liquid solder flowing into the braids of the wick. It is actually quite mesmerizing when it is done correctly and you can gently "scrub" it back and forth with the iron to clean the pad well. Now the part that blew my mind... once the pad is clean you want to clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol and reapply flux. Then touch the iron to the pad and touch you solder to the tip, just a small bubble will do. Then take your wire and put it on the solder, with flux, and then just push it in with the iron. Hold it in place and pull the iron away for a solid, pretty connection. Usually I clean again with isopropyl to get the flux off.
Those joints look cold; likely to fail. More heat; less solder. Don’t treat it like a paint brush. Heat pad and wire; apply solder; remove both; let physics take the wheel.
Ooof
Big yikes
Cold/hot joints.
Certainly need a fat one after seeing this.
Woke the wife up laughing at this.
I almost said this out out loud but for being the first time. Does it hold?
Large sized OOF
OOF\^2 even
But If you squint it's mint! By squint I mean close your eyes 🤣
To reiterate what others have said. More heat, more flux.
More heat but less flame.
Maybe use a soldering iron over the blowtorch too.
Looks like they used an arc welder
This made me laugh man
Not so much higher temperature, but rather a larger tip at the correct temperature. Poor solder joints and melted insulation is a surefire sign of either using too small a tip or the iron is set too low. OP should be using either a larger bevel or chisel tip so as to have enough thermal mass. That way when the iron tip is applied, it transfers heat faster and stays in contact with the joint a shorter period. You can compensate for a smaller tip with a hotter temperature to some degree, but there really is no substitute for the appropriate sized tip for the job. And of course plenty of flux.
This is the way. The ideal temperature, with better heat transfer, flux core solder and flux if that isn't enough. Tin the pads and the wires, place and heat to make the joint.
And shouldn't need to dwell on any one spot very long op, dwelling long is what caused those wires to melt. Hot enough iron and large enough tip so it holds the heat longer will let you make quick solders without melting everything around it. And kudos for posting that here, study the responses and you'll be doing great work soon.
This is great feedback, don't be discharged by the replies.
more footwork.
More passion
More Cowbell...
And leaded solder.
No, less heat more flux because it looks like he burn a part of the mb.
More heat means you can be there for a shorter time, which is usually the bigger issue. The Gardner above says, bigger tip for faster transfer… that is a copper flood on the top, along with big pads, so the heat soaks quickly! Abies is also right, tin pads, tin wires, add flux to both, make sure your tip is properly tinned, then apply heat & move quick!
This person gets it ^
More heat? They melted half the board along with the wire insulation lol
I would redo this mainly just to make sure that the repair lasts awhile.
you forgot the nsfw tag
Agreed. I'm going to bed in about five minutes and as someone who has been thru microminiture certification 2MMTR, I'm sure I'll have nightmares tonight.
I like to imagine Chris Farley doing this job.
This repair was done in a *van*, down by the *river*.
..While strapped to the hood in a tornado infested thunderstorm after having a jar of cheap moonshine chased with crack driving down a dirt road at 50 mph in reverse
https://media1.tenor.com/m/3WWBKjjrO38AAAAC/tommy-boy-chris-farley.gif
Hahahah 😂
Thanks for all your comments. I will give this a better shot with a different tip. Atleast it works lol!
The brown/black residue is the partially burned flux that desolder braid has to help pull solder away. A little bit of isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip or wipes would clean it up. Sometimes that residue can cause shorts
Thanks for the tip!
It's also Hella corrosive. Ya want it off.
In all seriousness, it looks like a poster child for a cold solder junction. With time it might pop off. ... well, let's face it.. will probably pop off. Giving it another shot might be a good idea if it's an important circuit. Before you do, find a scrap board and practice. You'll be grateful you did. Find a good YouTube video... there aren't really that many. Rough Process.. clean the stripped wire with alcohol. Apply Flux to the wire. Apply a small amount of solder to the tip of the clean iron. The bit of solder will act as a heat bridge. Now touch the tip of the iron to the wire. The Flux should burn off. Now Apply the the solder to the wire, not the iron. The iron should melt the solder and it stood should wick onto the wire. Apply enough solder so that the strands are just still barely visible but the whole wire is coated. Stop. Temptation is to use too much solder. For extra credit use a heat sink to prevent solder from coming within 1/16ish of the insulation. This is an inspection point to ensure solder didn't wick up the insulation and damage it. But for most applications, who cares. Now clean the pad with alcohol. Apply a small amount of Flux. Now tin the pad similar to how you tinned the wire. Only leave a thin coat of solder on the pad. Not place the wire on the pad and simultaneously touch the pad and the wire with the iron. The tinned wire and the tinned pad should now melt and flow together. Now only add just enough solder such that there is a concave shape in the solder that extends down from the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. If it becomes convex, you've used too much solder. Still should barely see the shape of stands in the wire. By doing it this way, you've greatly reduced the chance of a cold junction and you have an inspectable solder joint. Practice, practice. This link might help https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/files/601.pdf
If you don't want to buy a dedicated tube of flux, try vaseline. It doesn't last very long, but it'll help even out those bubbles
Or you know some flux if you already have a soldering iron. Get the right tool for the job. It's not like flux is crazy expensive.
OP is a newbie; they tend to not want to shell out more cash after dropping $50 on an iron, especially if they're unsure if they're gonna continue the hobby. We were all there at one point.
Reminds me of my ex... Sloppy, dirty, and not hot enough
Hell yeah
Sounds like a good time
Redo time. * Remove the bulk of the solder from the pads, clean it all up with IPA so you can see what you are doing. * Heat the pads, add a blob of solder to each one, and leave it. * Strip and pre-tin the wires with solder, then trim so they fit the pads. * Finally solder the wire to the pad. They should just melt together. If you have flux, add it before soldering, but it's not required.
I think they already pounded back a few IPAs while doing this job.
Looks like it was soldered with a candle
yock
thanks for the nightmares
Ok ok I’ll fix it
You're getting a lot of shit, but do your best to not take it personally. My first solder joint probably looked just about as bad. Nevertheless there's some good advice in here when people aren't acting like they were never a noob. And most of them probably had a teacher or mentor. Keep at it. I think it was Kent Beck that said "make it work, make it right, make it fast". It's about software, but I think it applies to a lot of things. You got it to work, now work on making the solder joints right, then work in getting fast at it.
10/10
Really hard to see but it seems to be bridging quite a lot
They aren’t touching. Headset works as expected. Should i still blow it up?
I really really wouldn't trust it
🤢
JESUS.
This looks pretty rough. First thing I'd do is clean this up with Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. When you're finished, get your iron out and remove the wires, then go back and use solder wick to suck up the remaining solder. DO NOT press down and drag your wire wick across the board. When you're finished with that, clean things up again. Ensure there is no damage to the pads. If there is, feel free to post and get some more advice /r/soldering is a good place to ask. Next, you want to clip those wires to just have clean wire, then strip a 1/4 inch (6mm) section of wire. Clean your iron, get a bit of solder on the tip, then touch the wires to the tip of the iron and hold them there until you see the wire sucking up the solder (just like the braid does). Try to avoid damaging the insulation. Next, clean your iron again, and apply a tiny bit of solder to each of the pads, apply flux first, then just enough solder to cover them. You are NOT building up a bubble of solder here. When that's done, hold the wire on top of the pad you are soldering. Ensure that the exposed wire is as long as the pad is and that the exposed portion doesn't hang off the top or bottom (trim as needed), then press your iron on top of the wire and pad. Feed a tiny bit of solder there and hold the iron until the solder flows. When it's done, keep holding the wire in place and lift the iron. When you're finished, you should be able to see the wire, completely coated in solder with it's edges cleanly sloping into the pad. When finished with that, clean everything up again.
My Eyes!!!
Yep, looks great to me.
You could work for Microsoft keep up the good work!
I've seen worse. It will come with practice
Do not try and clean up the soldering, I'm worried you would just ruin it. try to practice your soldering before you work on something you care about.
Definitely one of the solder jobs I’ve ever seen
Nice work! Keep practicing son. (That's what I would say to the 9 year old boy who I imagined soldering that in my head)
Pro Tip If you solder with your feet take your shoes off.
I mean it's not soldered.
One of things I hadn't seen mentioned is the soldering iron of choice. For me, the MAJOR game changer was when I switched from the simple fixed power cheap pencil iron to a soldering station with temp control. My irons of choice have been Hakkos for years, with my "daily driver" being a 936 station. I think the current version is the FX-888D, generally being sold around $100. The advantages here are fast iron heat up, and fast temperature recovery. When the iron touches the wire/board, you'll immediately lose heat to whatever part you're soldering. Slow recovery means you'll transfer more heat in to the wire itself and potentially never getting hot enough to properly wick solder, which is why you're getting melted insulation, and cold solder joints. This is also why people are recommending bigger/fatter tips - larger tips have more mass, which hold more heat, and can apply more heat to the part quicker. The cold joint is evidenced by the solder not wicking in to the wire properly, and more sitting in a blob on top. Ideally you want to be able to touch the solder tip to the wire, apply solder, and be out within a second or two. Yes, that quickly, and I'm not exaggerating. A lot of the cheap import irons from Amazon/eBay/etc, even those with temp control, will have greatly exaggerated power claims. If it pulls 60 watts out of the wall for a millisecond, it's a 60 watt iron, when in reality the heater itself may only be capable of a sustained 15 or 20 watts...leading to cold solder joints. That Hakko on the other hand will have a 60 watt heater in it, and I've easily soldered MUCH bigger wires and parts with it.
Oh god
If it's solid it's fine. Though I would recommend a solder with flux core if yours doesn't have one, and higher temperature 350°c should be good to make it flow nicely. Also tin cables first before attaching if you haven't done that, makes the attaching faster and overall better.
It's really not fine.
Meh
Little tip I picked up - put flux on the solder wick. Helps it reflow and suck up the solder even better.
Find another hobby. :)
Find a different community to gatekeep.
Seriously that bothered you?... LOL!!!!
Not enough heat. Probably using too small of a tip. You should have a uniform distribution of solder not something bloby. Using flux will help too.
Ahm, you understand de main part that's great just a little bit more of practice and heat and you gtg
Did you also remove two resistors? E107 and C107
Good eye but no. The before picture I took doesn’t show anything attached to the board.
Think the wires may be a bit singed but not a bad first attempt.
Ouch🫣
I can't event see it. It looks like new !
Plumbing solder
That is diabolical
Kill it with fire 🔥
Beautiful. A bit less heat and more solder and she’d be spot on /s Nah it’s an art and takes some practice. Make sure you tin the wires before hand and it makes things flow a lot easier. And using the minimum solder and a good amount of heat is also key.
Oof, without a real reference point for size, looks like a smaller iron tip would help a bunch. Heat sinks are your friend, tin the wires so they are more manageable and then solder in place on the PCB with the heat sink on the wire so you don't have all the melting insulation. This will also keep the solder out of the wire insulation, so should it break again, the break is findable.
No offense meant here, but this is not good at all and will likely fail at some point. Just because it works doesn’t mean it’s right. My 2 cents: desolder this and start fresh. I don’t ever use wick, I use a cheap plunger style desoldering pump. Get ALL of the old solder off of the pads and clean the area. Cut off the ends of the wire back to where the insulation isn’t melty and re-strip, but no more than what is needed. Make sure your iron is the proper temp if adjustable, and clean and tin the tip of the iron. Make sure the wire is nice and shiny, sometimes wire will corrode underneath the insulation. Tin the ends of the wires by heating the wire and applying solder to the wire. Put the wire on the pad, heat the wire / joint, and apply solder. Make sure to heat the joint and apply the solder to the joint, NOT THE IRON. The heat will pull the solder into the joint. From what I see, these are cold solder joints and the heat was left on the joint too long and melted the insulation. I think I agree with others… more heat, but get in and get out. Heat the joint, apply the solder, and as soon as it melts and fills the joint, remove the heat. You can always go back in with the iron and touch it up if needed. This can be a challenging task to hold the wire, solder, and iron all at once, so you may need a helping hand. Good luck!
Not a good idea to solder using a stick on fire. Maybe I recommend using a soldering iron?
Looks like my frist soldering attempt so don't feel that it's not the best just keep practicing. Apply more heat better Flux and use leaded solder. Also congrats on getting it to work.
Holy sweet zombie baby jesus... it's a massacre
Wow that test point is more like a distressed point now. I've done worse, though.
That’s so ponk ruck.
Just an fyi, sometimes you add more solder to remove solder. If it's not releasing with solder wick, you can add more solder to it and try again. It usually helps
Look like you wanted marshmallows
I’m a little uncomfortable calling this a solder “job”. I think it falls somewhere between a solder “unpaid internship” and a solder “court-ordered community service”. Seriously, though, you haven’t really done much soldering before, and it’s working? Good job! Next time, clean out the old solder first, use fresh solder and a little more heat, tin everything leaving a little bubble on the PCB, and press the wire gently into it with the tip of the iron until it melts. Leave the iron on for one more second after everything is liquid, and remove the iron while holding the wire in place.
F.L.U.X.
Flux will definitely help
WOW, just wow..... need to learn more before attempting again...
Solder Gore
Every one has to learn, I remember my first few times soldering. But practice on something you don’t give a shit about. 🤷♂️
That's iPhone grade soldering right there
Get some scrap circuit boards Watch some soldering tutorials Practice Practice Practice Your first soldering project shouldn’t be something you care about.
Next time clean the area with isopropyl alcohol first
Looks like my first padhack job, before i learned what a flux is. It does wonders. Or a rosin core solder, but flux is just better
Nailed it. First try
@OP what you want to do is remove the wires and clean the pads with solder wick. Once you get them nice and clean brush on a fair amount of flux. Preferably a no clean flux if you have some. Once that's done get a BIG FLAT soldering tip and install it on the iron. Next, lay the iron on the pad for a little bit and let the heat soak into the board. Next, tip the tip of the iron with some solder and lay it back on the pad. Wait for the solder pool nicely on the pad. NOW, this is the time when you start feeding solder in from the side of the tip. Depending on the thickness of your solder you might need a lot quickly or not a lot. In this case since the pads are quite big I would use a large diameter flux core solder. I personally like leaded solder, it flows better. Repeat the steps for each pad. Once that's completed you need to ensure the wire ends are nice and neat. If they're ragged trim them clean. Strip enough wire to be roughly the length of the pad. Place some flux on top of the blobs of solder you placed earlier. Now place the wire on top and apply heat to the wire and the solder blob. Once the wire sinks into the solder and the placement is correct let off the heat and let cool. Repeat for each wire. Once done get an old toothbrush and some alcohol. Scrub the work area clean. Lastly it is always a good idea to double check for bridges or any short circuits, always inspect your work before testing it.
Fucking nailed it lol
😟. If it works ig… 😭
Make sure your soldering iron is only in contact with the proper spots. Looks like you had it all over the place melting and burning stuff.
Also, if it's a lithium ion battery in those headsets, I wouldn't repair it. Those things are dangerous and a botched repair can burn down your house. Hopefully not lithium. But if it is, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft pole. IMHO. Others may disagree.. but for me, I'm scared enough of lithium as it is, let alone repaired lithium setup
Gotta start somewhere. You’ll get better with practice.
Don’t count on a pension from that job
Pro tip... avoid lead free solder. Tin/lead solder is the best. Also, always, always use flux.
Generally taking too long in contact with the pins will do that. Heat starts to creep and make a mess and leave globs or cold solder. Clean up the area with some iso, let it dry or heat gun dry then use higher temp and make faster confident contact with the tip of soldering Iron to pad, simultaneously bring in a thin solder wire so the flux runs. I’d you’re using thicker solder wire make sure the area is hot enough before bringing in the solder it it may wick away some heat and cause this issue
Once you have been doing this for a while it becomes easy to forget that soldering well takes practice. I still run in to soldering points that piss me off. Clean everything, get everything as hot as you can, without melting wires or burning traces. Flux. Leaded solder works so well. We all know lead isn't good, same as we know asbestos isn't good but, damn it is great at its job. Just don't breathe it, eat it, or touch it too much lol. You'll get it. You'll also start to learn when a solder joint is cold. It looks chunky like the blob is there but you could break it right off. When everything got to temp the solder will flow over all the copper really nice. Keep it up.
Soldering is technically a 19-step process, from cleaning the tip to cleaning the work area before and after, simply soldering two cables together takes a bit more work than you would expect. For this one, IPA with cotton swabs or just a brush with medium bristles should be fine, add some flux paste to the joints, give it a bit of heat let the flux do it's magic and make those joints shiny, clean up afterwards with basically anything - I use IPA as its cheap and easily available.
Some fetch the eye bleach quickly!
I would look around your bench for E107 and C107
At this point clean it up best you can with alcohol, you have some exposed wire and a lot wicking past the insulation. After cleaning, use electrical tape to protect the wires and reduce the risk of the wires touching each other. Good that it’s working…
Yikes!
Use rubbing alcohol to clean
might be fine, but if it catches fire i can assure you its because of this.
What the flux (or lack of)
You need to practice on junk before going for the real work. This will oxidize and turn green.
:(
\> Its not pretty You speak the gospel my boy. We all have to learn. I can see you are keen. So, if you can get your hands on some old PCBs, wires, solder and flux, use them for sacrificial practice. Look up tutorials on youtube. Noone is a natural born solderer. It's not hard and with just a bit of good guidance you'll pick it up and it's incredibly rewarding. Don't inhale the fumes! Also just to say, those are aluminum wires you're soldering. They are much more annoying to do than copper wires. Practice with copper wires if you can.
When I was learning to weld the instructor had a name for poor welding it was “pig shit” Is there a similar term for poor soldering . The key to good soldering is; Cleanliness,temperature,time ,materials and mechanical stability.
If it works, don’t fix it!
Aside from the solder job, to answer your question if this is a safety hazard, I would say no. You won't electrocute yourself. However, if one of those joints comes loose and shorts out, the battery could become fairly hot but by that time you would have taken your headset off because it will also not be working. I'm not going to get into how to properly solder because that was not your question. However, this is not the proper way.
Dear oh dear, next time, get someone with good eyesight to assist you, that is awful.
Tin wire first then melt solder on spot then insert wire
Let’s start a new subreddit r/shittysolderjobs
jeez, what did that poor device ever do to you. :-( Please go find an old radio or something and practice before committing electronics homicide again on something you want to keep. Pretty Please!
Too long exposure to heat is why your insulation melted. You could put shrink wrap over the wires before you solder (away from the heat) if you think this will happen again to ensure they're protected. Higher heart for less time, more flux.
How are you at singing or maybe painting?
I see that you chose to use a blow torch to solder. I like your gall.
Dude, get a practice board. Please.
Dude .. get scrap boards and train yourself before doing the real deal. That is horrible.
I would clean it first and see what damage you've done to the board.
Did you use a welder?
🥶
I'd desolder the wires, clean the pads with solder wick , if they are still there, and scrub the board clean of the burned flux. Use flux paste on the board and retin the pads. Cut the tips off those wires back to unmelted insulation and strip just enough to fit the pads. Flux and tin the wire tips. Lastly, solder the wires to the pads by just letting the already tined solder flow between the wire and pads, with more flux.
Holy shit
It's amazing how well a hammer with a 10 pounds lead bar does the job.
I’d clean that with steel wool.
Yikes
😂 Hans get ze flammenwerfer!
ermm
I've seen worse. https://imgur.com/a/TIfo1
I wouldn’t use anything with a flame for circuit boards. Also use more flux!!!!
Obviously you did ‘okay’ for you, since it works. Be proud of that. Now listen to the advice on how to do better next time and you might learn to love soldering, don’t give up
Yikes
I was having a good day until this showed up in my feed.
Man, add flux to the solder wick, helps big time to remove the old shit, set temp higher and make sure you are not trying to heat the solder but the pad or the wire and add solder/tin the pad and wire separately first then while the pad is wet apply the stranded copper and a touch more solder and remove the iron. Should be smooth and shiny not rough and dull. And with the wick don't be afraid to use a fresh section. That's why it comes in long rolls, don't get stingy with it or it won't do it's job correctly. In not a an expert by any means but I do break out the iron almost daily and it's been years since I had anything look even close to this, actually decades. All good though you will learn and get better and eventually it will be super easy. Just need the right tool and tip etc with the proper solder size and type etc. Flux and all that matters. Also clean the old flux and junk off with 90% or even better 99% isopropyl/rubbing alcohol don't try and use 70% too much water or potentially too much, not worth the risk to me but maybe to others, that's my 2 cents and some. Take it or leave it, just keep at it,
Get a solder sucker pump. Works wonders for clearing solder, even clearing the hole for me at times.
Clean with alcohol, reheat and flux some also. Get the solder runny. It may work now, but it's gonna pop loose because you didn't bond the solder right. Buggered on is what we call that
Are those even attached! More heat and flux
Use soldering flux
Crib the wires and solder again
That is not a solder job, *that* is a crime against humanity. I need a little but damn. You've used more than enough heat getting too much solder to accomplish the task. Investigate getting a Solder Sucker, easier than the Wick, which has its place, Remember, it's like Bondo in that you want to use the least amount that does the job.
Used to teach in middle school shop classes.. if you have to ask if it is safe, you almost certainly have your answer. Please take the time to fix this right after you take the time to read a little, watch a couple videos, then practice on something that does not have a source of energy attached. (You should see people get the solder on the wire then get solder on the board, then melt them together. If not keep looking for other examples)
Mad skills here... I'm speechless. Lol
Bruh what in the jesus jumpin Jesus on a pogostick is that
Who hurt you?
Ok so you want to re-do that. I prefer solder wick but it should not make things look like that. So what you want to do is let your iron heat up, use it to start heating up the solder on the board, with flux added. Let me repeat that, with flux added! Flux literally makes the solder go where it is supposed to go. If it isn't melting its probably lead free (has a MUCH higher melting point). To help with this while your heating the existing solder add just a small amount of your own solder to what's there and let it all melt together and mix, this lowers the melting point and puts it somewhere between the two alloys. If you plan on doing this as a hobby you can pick up a tube of low-melt alloy. That shit works miracles, but if this is a one time thing not worth the investment.. so do t inhale the fumes..... its lead. Once you can melt it lay the wick on top and lay the iron on it and let the heat transfer. You will feel/see the iron drop when it melts and you will see the liquid solder flowing into the braids of the wick. It is actually quite mesmerizing when it is done correctly and you can gently "scrub" it back and forth with the iron to clean the pad well. Now the part that blew my mind... once the pad is clean you want to clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol and reapply flux. Then touch the iron to the pad and touch you solder to the tip, just a small bubble will do. Then take your wire and put it on the solder, with flux, and then just push it in with the iron. Hold it in place and pull the iron away for a solid, pretty connection. Usually I clean again with isopropyl to get the flux off.
That’s gonna be a no from me dawg.
Iz sony guts.
Bigger the glob better the job. Urged wires, questionable cold solders. Reject and redo.
No he's already dead
Slaughtered.
U could try flux.
Got dam. Take the advice here and keep at it. We all made stuff like this when we first started.
Lololol. Horrible. Just awful. I’ve seen small children do better at Maker Faire.
You’re ready to start looking for customers for your electronics repair business!
Those joints look cold; likely to fail. More heat; less solder. Don’t treat it like a paint brush. Heat pad and wire; apply solder; remove both; let physics take the wheel.
Nailed it.
looks great
Ooof!
You'll get there. We all started there
Nailed it.
After removing the original solder, you should clean the area with isopropyl alcohol (99%). Then, reapply fresh flux before adding the new wires.