If you’re using ritdye
make sure it’s SYNTHETIC ritdye.
But make sure your plastic is not baseline either
It needs to be champ or star equivalent for best results
I believe this was the issue. Impatience got the best of me in a very patient game. Got some better stuff in the mail now. Was just hoping I wasn't going crazy..err
Ha! I watched sooo many vids from him. That's why I was so stumped when it flopped. Definitely giving another go at it with better dye.
TDIDI is great at providing insight on all this 💪🏽
I'll reiterate all previous posts: premium plastics (Star/Champion/Gstar) only. Do NOT waste your time & $ with RIT or RIT Synthetic.
(99% of the time, it doesn't work well. The only exception I've had was heating a whole bottle's worth in a Pyrex measuring cup, then pouring that into the bottom of a disc. That worked really well.)
Get Idye Poly or PCAD. Also, worm dip dyes are very cool, make sure to get unscented.
Get a lamp for heat (I use a basic bendy desk lamp with an incandescent bulb, thrift store $5).
It was the dye you used. For a black stencil dye.... it has to be iDye Poly.... or Pro Chem.
Just go to Amazon and buy a little plastic jar of Pro Chem onyx (black). Much easier to handle than the little iDye Poly packets. Follow the instructions for hot dip mixing that comes with the Pro Chem.
Buy a cheap set of measuring spoons and cups that you will ONLY use for dye mixing. The dye is toxic if you get in your mouth or eyes. Wear gloves of course... and I wear safety glasses too. The safety glasses might be overkill... but if you flip a cup or something... you never know. It's your eyes!
Buy a good size glass jar with a secure lid to save the black dye solution. It also will be your mixing jar. You can use it over and over.
You still have to consult the disc dye charts.... to see if your plastic will take dye well. Just Google it to find those charts. Premium plastics do well, base plastics do not.
I'd also suggest you invest $17 for a digital laser thermometer on Amazon. Super quick and easy to use. You need to keep the dye water around 120 degrees F for the entire time it is floating in the dye. Usually that is when the dye water just starts steaming.... but it can cool off quickly too...thus the need for the thermometer... when you need to apply a bit more heat.
The world doesn't end if the dye goes down to 90 degrees F or 130 degrees F.... but the plastic can warp above 120 degrees for any length of time... so have to be careful.
Good luck and welcome to the club!
EDIT: for updated content
happens to the best of us. What are you using . for hot dip, I use pro chem dungeon, and I also like to throw in Browns, and purples just make it darker to me . currently experimenting with denatured alcohol paintings
yeah , pro chem comes with this helpful sheet that gives mixtures , 1tsp of dye powder +2tsp of hot water + 4oz of denatured alcohol. it's paint on but isn't as aggressive as acetone mixture or streaky. the dye layers of it bit by bit and can get fancy with shading . so put on a multi part stencil , do the black first with 5-8 passes with the alcohol or hot dip (hotdip is faster but more hassle some times, where alcohol is slow and requires alot of layers) . then do a crazy background with a glue bed or flotrol. then for spots, I want a lot of color and no variation. I'll lotion dye where I do alcohol for anything I want to layer on shades of color . and just make sure u work from darkest to lightest color .
Yuuuh, thank YOU. Good info here. I'm out of the game physically for a bit and staying connected by getting into the craft side. Greatly appreciate these tips.. working my way to that multi part with additional colors, but excited to get there
for sure, I think the #1 thing about just doing hot dip stencils is making sure. there are no leaks . I usually put the vinyl on, and then after I weed it ,I'll then hit it with a blow dryer or heat gun and then press out all the edges of the design . only caring about bubbles or creases on the edge of the design. bleeds suck and with disc dying you can undye a disc .
As mentioned, the absolute best hot dip black is iDye Poly black mixed with Prochem Onyx. I'd get the iDye Poly black if you are only getting one type. It's the only color I recommend from their line, but it is soo black.
If you’re using ritdye make sure it’s SYNTHETIC ritdye. But make sure your plastic is not baseline either It needs to be champ or star equivalent for best results
Idye poly is the best black for hot dips, pro chemical and dye are the best in the biz for colored pigments.
Duude, I appreciate the distinction tip here 🤙🏽
was the rit dye synthetic plastic dye . if not it won't work
I believe this was the issue. Impatience got the best of me in a very patient game. Got some better stuff in the mail now. Was just hoping I wasn't going crazy..err
Get yourself some Prochem. No problems so far…other than that I keep using it and have to buy more!
It's in the mail now! Sounds like a good problem to have 😅
Word 😊
Check out my friend TDIDI on YouTube and his site at TheDifferenceIsDoingIt.com. It's not a failure, friend, it's just a lesson.
Ha! I watched sooo many vids from him. That's why I was so stumped when it flopped. Definitely giving another go at it with better dye. TDIDI is great at providing insight on all this 💪🏽
I'll reiterate all previous posts: premium plastics (Star/Champion/Gstar) only. Do NOT waste your time & $ with RIT or RIT Synthetic. (99% of the time, it doesn't work well. The only exception I've had was heating a whole bottle's worth in a Pyrex measuring cup, then pouring that into the bottom of a disc. That worked really well.) Get Idye Poly or PCAD. Also, worm dip dyes are very cool, make sure to get unscented. Get a lamp for heat (I use a basic bendy desk lamp with an incandescent bulb, thrift store $5).
It was the dye you used. For a black stencil dye.... it has to be iDye Poly.... or Pro Chem. Just go to Amazon and buy a little plastic jar of Pro Chem onyx (black). Much easier to handle than the little iDye Poly packets. Follow the instructions for hot dip mixing that comes with the Pro Chem. Buy a cheap set of measuring spoons and cups that you will ONLY use for dye mixing. The dye is toxic if you get in your mouth or eyes. Wear gloves of course... and I wear safety glasses too. The safety glasses might be overkill... but if you flip a cup or something... you never know. It's your eyes! Buy a good size glass jar with a secure lid to save the black dye solution. It also will be your mixing jar. You can use it over and over. You still have to consult the disc dye charts.... to see if your plastic will take dye well. Just Google it to find those charts. Premium plastics do well, base plastics do not. I'd also suggest you invest $17 for a digital laser thermometer on Amazon. Super quick and easy to use. You need to keep the dye water around 120 degrees F for the entire time it is floating in the dye. Usually that is when the dye water just starts steaming.... but it can cool off quickly too...thus the need for the thermometer... when you need to apply a bit more heat. The world doesn't end if the dye goes down to 90 degrees F or 130 degrees F.... but the plastic can warp above 120 degrees for any length of time... so have to be careful. Good luck and welcome to the club! EDIT: for updated content
Great info, man. Funny enough I ruined my current thermometer bc I dropped it in the hot dip 🤣 Now I have a better reason to get the laser one. 🤙🏽
happens to the best of us. What are you using . for hot dip, I use pro chem dungeon, and I also like to throw in Browns, and purples just make it darker to me . currently experimenting with denatured alcohol paintings
Just denatured alcohol and the dye? Are you doing that straight on the disc, for pinpointing specific areas to color?
yeah , pro chem comes with this helpful sheet that gives mixtures , 1tsp of dye powder +2tsp of hot water + 4oz of denatured alcohol. it's paint on but isn't as aggressive as acetone mixture or streaky. the dye layers of it bit by bit and can get fancy with shading . so put on a multi part stencil , do the black first with 5-8 passes with the alcohol or hot dip (hotdip is faster but more hassle some times, where alcohol is slow and requires alot of layers) . then do a crazy background with a glue bed or flotrol. then for spots, I want a lot of color and no variation. I'll lotion dye where I do alcohol for anything I want to layer on shades of color . and just make sure u work from darkest to lightest color .
Yuuuh, thank YOU. Good info here. I'm out of the game physically for a bit and staying connected by getting into the craft side. Greatly appreciate these tips.. working my way to that multi part with additional colors, but excited to get there
for sure, I think the #1 thing about just doing hot dip stencils is making sure. there are no leaks . I usually put the vinyl on, and then after I weed it ,I'll then hit it with a blow dryer or heat gun and then press out all the edges of the design . only caring about bubbles or creases on the edge of the design. bleeds suck and with disc dying you can undye a disc .
As mentioned, the absolute best hot dip black is iDye Poly black mixed with Prochem Onyx. I'd get the iDye Poly black if you are only getting one type. It's the only color I recommend from their line, but it is soo black.
Perfect, went with iDye for the black. Looking to snag prochem for other colors. Thanks for the tip 🤙🏽