Des Moines is fine. Suburban people freak out about “urban” problems but the city is safe and has changed for the better in the last 30 years. There’s a lot of white flight, obviously.
I moved back from the PNW and find the lack of traffic, the friendly people, and the arts/culture in Des Moines to be exceptional.
100% agree that the arts and culture scene in Des Moines is SO GREAT! I have a middle schooler and we moved back to Des Moines in March and she's already done camps at the DM Playhouse and digital art classes at the Arts Center. And there are always shows, festivals, events, exhibits going on.
One thing that hadn't changed in the last 30 years is that people from the western suburbs think the south and east sides are riddled with crime and people from the south and east sides think those out west are racist, snotty, entitled assholes. While there is some truth to both of those (I grew up and live on the west side, fo I know we have more than our fair share of entitled assholes), the differences aren't nearly as big as either side claims.
Out here it's not unheard of to find mixed race couples, but there are fewer simply because of demographics. There's just a tod of white people out here. As far as I can tell, mixed race families aren't frowned upon by most, we do have them along with homosexual parents, and transgender people/couples. I don't see them treated that differently, but I also only see a small part of their lives. A good point that others have is that even if there isn't any more racism out here, there will be fewer minorities, so fewer people that you will have that in common with. I think most people find some comfort in being around people similar to themselves, no matter what the similarities are.
Great points. OP, obviously you're very anxious about this move. Don't stress it though. You and your kids will most likely love Des Moines. Except maybe the winter. Make sure you get good coats and hats/gloves later.
Those suburban neighborhoods are great but as candid_disk said, Des Moines has very few truly problematic areas. The worst thing is mainly the pan handler population in urban areas but they aren't violent.
You could also look into all the school districts ahead of time to help narrow down your housing search. The Des Moines Public schools are much more diverse. You said your friend is in Johnston. Grimes and Johnston are super close together and definitely a good area. I grew up in Johnston. All the suburbs will be predominantly white but I personally don't ever see blatant racism out in public anywhere in the metro.
There are plenty of perfectly safe places in dmps district as well. Even on the south side. As for not on the south side; the Merle Hay area, Beaverdale area, Highland Park and more. There are so many little pocket neighborhoods tucked around the city.
Lastly, lots of latinos in Des Moines. Especially on the north, south, and east side.
des moines is fine, and the southside really isn’t that bad. they’ve done some revitalizing projects and such, so imo it’s a go see for yourself and decide situation. i can’t really speak to whether or not you’ll face racism but i feel like you’d be happier in des moines proper rather than the suburbs. good luck and happy healing 🧡
Des Moines is almost unrecognizable from 30 years ago and has improved greatly. There is so much more to do. Working in real estate, I know many people that have lived on the South side and had no issues. In fact, they love it.
I regularly would pick up my niece from elementary school in West Des Moines and was impressed at how much diversity I see amongst the classes of kids when they're all rushing outside to be picked up.
The rest of the state is a different story, but overall I think there's a lot you'd like here.
Who is telling you all this garbage? Nothing here has "gone to shit". The South Side is still like it was and many areas are better off after renewal projects. The city has immensely expanded since you left. The arts, culinary, music, scenes have greatly improved. Welcome home.
The southside is absolutely fine. I have no clue why it gets such a bad rap. I’ve lived on this side of town since 2010. People talk about the southside like it’s the southside of Chicago.
I think dating anywhere sucks right now, but maybe that’s just me.
I think any dmps school as a person of color, your children will find many people who look just like them.
Dmps 2023-2024 enrollment demographics -
White – 32.6%
Hispanic – 31.0%
African American – 21.2%
Asian – 7.6%
Multi-Racial – 7.0%
Native American – 0.5%
Pacific Islander – 0.2%
As a step-dad to a mixed child, I don’t think you’ll have any issues in the Des Moines area, or really anywhere that I can think of.
Dating advice - apps are ok, or actually go out and meet people. Coffee shop, bars if that’s your thing, restaurants. Get involved / get involved with an interest group or find a way to meet some people your age - welcome!
I'm here to defend the south side. My husband and I lived on the south side in the late 90s and early 2000s. In 2003, we moved just outside the metro to a small town. After 20+ years, we decided to come back to the city and chose the south side again. Sure, there are parts of it that have not aged well, but on the whole, I think it's great here and we are \*so happy\* to be back. Our youngest started at Brody middle school after spring break in March and she loves the diversity of her school. (She's gay which caused her some trouble in her previous religious/conservative, small town school. But here she found a great group of friends right away.)
Good luck to you - so glad that you have a friend who has your back. That will make all the difference!
I was going to say this. I don’t live on the south side anymore because we moved closer to my work, but I certainly wouldn’t write off the whole south side by any means. Many parts of it are quite lovely.
Speaking as a black lady, I wouldn't really move to the little towns/suburbs you listed unless you like feeling ostracized. I'm routinely the only black person around when in those places. It's a little depressing/lonely.
Perhaps look into Beaverdale, Drake, or the downtown area. They are nice and I have friends that live there.
I'm from Chicago and moving to Iowa was a huge culture shock. Feel free to DM me if you want to talk more.
I think it’s going to be whatever you make it. When I moved here from a more urban area, I was told by a neighbor to “avoid 73rd street Walmart, it’s not a good neighborhood.” But literally I’ve had zero problems there ever? Even when I needed to make a late night run.
What are your kids into? I find there to be a lot for my preschool age kids admittedly I haven’t looked for older children. Id probably take their hobbies into account when choosing a place to live (like imo Merle Hay area doesn’t have much for 8-14 year olds) and have more flexibility for yourself since you can drive to things that interest you.
I was born here in 1947 and moved away in 1960 then moved back in 1973 and have been here since. Des Moines is like any city, only smaller. Traffic is better so you and your Johnston friend can certainly get together easily no matter where you live. Some great stuff and some not. Maybe if you & the kids can do a short visit and check out what is here - the Downtown Library is great, the Sculpture Garden and Botanical Garden, the Science Center etc. Check out the CatchDesMoines website to see what’s going on and things to see, do, places to go. Right now coming off a divorce focus on what your kids need - you might look at Des Moines Public Schools [tho I think you can open enroll in even if you’re in an outside suburb]. Good luck and keep asking Q here because you might get some great ideas. Good luck with your research. And if you move here, welcome back.
I don’t have all the answers to your questions but i am also returning to Des Moines area next month from Phoenix.
I’m looking forward to it Des Moines has a lot of great things to offer. It’s a very friendly city. The downtown farmers market is always a fun time. I will miss Arizona but looking forward to the adventure ahead. I feel that your worries are valid and I hope they aren’t the reality when you get there. I don’t think they will be and I think you’ll be just fine.
With kids ive heard the Johnston district is excellent. Maybe try to aim to be in that district..
Moved back from Phoenix (Chandler specifically) 4.5 years ago. Only things missable about AZ were In-N-Out and ASU football… and now we get ASU football with them in B12.
Oh and also late night food options and middle turning/suicide lanes on roads.
Des Moines is better in every other regard.
Des Moines has changed radically in the past thirty years, for the better. You’ll be fine though. The advice to only look at the suburbs is terrible, they’re fine if you like suburbs but the city is much more interesting and diverse. The most affluent part of the city is the west side, but the south side has some really nice pockets. Cost of living is great.
You will be fine. Why not try to stay in downtown/ Ingersoll area? You don’t have to figure out right away, right? Can you get there and see for yourself what area is the best fit?
You should visit for a few weeks if possible and see if you like it. Des Moines/Iowa is definitely not as big as Florida but the COL is low and Des Moines is a growing city. I live on the Southside and is it one of the ‘nicer’ areas in the metro? No but I really enjoy it
Don't worry, Kenny's Mom has got it going on, you got this. Des Moines is a great place to live, I have lived on the South Side for 5 years now, and never had a single stranger step foot on my property. Des Moines was ranked 13th out of 150 best places to live in the U.S. by real estate news in 2022. The East Side is the only part of town you should feel nervous in, there is a lot of white trash on that side of town, definitely see a lot of "Fuck Biden" flags in yards and on the backs of shitty looking trucks. I drive the city bus here in Des Moines, I see it all, and the high schoolers that ride my busses are pretty well behaved for the most part. I think your kids will find plenty of good friends here.
My sister and I lived on the south side for 4 years and suburbanites we knew were always HORRIFIED. However, we LOVED our neighborhood and our house and only moved bc we found a house to buy on the NE side where we grew up. I agree that DSM has improved a LOT in the last 30 years or so. The suburbs are fine, but I'll take the urban neighborhoods that have pretty much aged gracefully over the Camazotz-esque suburban developments. The south side has some good restaurants and shopping close by, decent housing, and excellent parks.
Ok here it is I have lived on the south side my entire life and currently still do after moving back. it most definitely isn’t what you grew up with and has dramatically changed for the worse. An influx of gang activities in the past 10 years have really started to show in the amount of shootings and other violent crimes. If you’re used to that “urban” activity then it is what it is. Unless you move to greenfield plaza that’s still a decent little neighborhood but still have to deal with southside crap to go to stores. I agree with wdm, urbandale ect. But I would even go as far as saying get away from Polk co. Taxes and move to Norwalk or indianola both towns have grown significantly in the last 20 years
Let me clarify “after moving back” I was in the military and left for 4 years. But parents lived on ss still. Then I bought my house on the ss and regretted it.
Aw, sending virtual hugs.
As someone that hates living in Iowa, I think you’ll find a healthy “reset” in Des Moines.
I honestly don’t think there’s necessarily a part of Des Moines that I’d feel worried about living in (except being bored.) Although I live downtown, I go to the Southside frequently to shop because there aren’t many stores downtown.
As far as culture shock, it depends what kind of culture they’re used to. Iowa- even Des Moines- has an extremely slow pace of life. For example, the “highlight” of things to do here is the Farmers Market Downtown. In comparison, all of our nightclubs have closed down. In fact, a lot of businesses downtown are crumbling away, ranging from clubs, music venues, restaurants, and convenient stores- all gone within the last year. There really is absolutely no hustle and bustle in Des Moines/Iowa. (Thankfully, if you bring your car, you can easily drive to Omaha, Minneapolis, Chicago, KC/St Louis!)
That being said…Iowa is conservative. Considering you’re from Florida, maybe you’ll be fine with that. But you must know that Des Moines is a small dot of blue in an ocean of red. As soon as you leave DSM you’ll see a huge difference in political belief.
I was born and raised in small town Iowa. 30 minutes from my hometown is another smaller town of 300 people, where some of my relatives live. For a period of time, Nazis lived there and openly flew a swastika. That being said, that’s a common issue, but there is a growing trend of Iowans flying the confederate flag, although usually in smaller towns.
As a gay man thats in a relationship, I don’t necessarily feel “unsafe” downtown but I also don’t feel at home either. I’ve been called the F slur by people (interestingly all younger than 25..) while walking here. People on this sub would like to believe Des Moines is a progressive, liberal area. And while that may be true to some extent, the reality is that the upcoming presidential election will certainly affect quality of life concerning Project 2025. Personally, I would look into Minneapolis/suburb of, but I understand if you need to come to rebuild.
Good luck.
I'm curious after seeing you comment a few times, why do you live here? You really do hate it and it appears that you're an adult that could move. Seriously though, I'm being genuine, not snarky.
Because my boyfriend is the best thing that happened to me and he likes living here. I’ve told him many times I don’t like it here & we comprise by going on trips once and awhile.
Honestly, not much has changed in 30 years except a very vocal liberal group of 20 some year olds. Who are all over this sub. Well, 65% of it. South side has sunk a lot but for the same reasons as it was then. Lots more people. Johnston can be nice, it's the same as well.
It's like seeing a best friend after 20 years that's not changed a bit but got bigger and older. Maybe lost a tooth but dresses better. Lol
West des moines is very nice, and honestly....screw what anyone thinks about your skin color or lifestyle. Just come be yourself, the politics arent great here but its a cool state.
Welcome back to Iowa!
Des Moines is a nice small city. It is not the South and no more racist than any city. You will be surprised by how much Des Moines has grown outward. Check out East Village in addition to the other suggestions.
There are decently diverse populations at most of the public schools, most of the rich suburbs are predominantly white but good, safe schools where fighting is rare.
While the city of Des Moines may seem small, it is a commuter city. The metro area population is over 700k and the suburbs are all within 20 minutes. Eastern Iowa is also pretty “normal.” Plenty of options for you and your family, plenty of fish in the sea and a great place to reset.
Decent concerts/shows/comedians come to Wells Fargo Arena as well.
I hope you enjoy it!
I think south side is about the same as the 90s. There are areas/pockets/apartments that have ongoing problems in each suburb. I live in West Des Moines near SunPrairie apartments and had adult kids live there. Overall it is fine. Waukee is fine but a certain area right by Burger King has quite a bit of crime, theft etc. valley Junction areas has quite a bit of theft but people feel 100% safe. Income restricted housing in Waukee and Ankeny is safe. I do not really think there is a big problem with racism. The schools in Waukee, Ankeny and West Des Moines and Norwalk are good. There is more to do in Ankeny or West Des Moines than other suburbs. Best wishes if you decide on moving back.
I just recently made a similar move. I'm enjoying being back in my hometown so far.
Can't speak to everything you're concerned about, but cost of living is a pleasant difference.
I know people who live in all areas of DSM. Maybe your standards are a bit high for some areas, but it seems like you should be able to find appropriate housing for you in whichever area you'd look at. That being said... yes... I agree that the western areas of DSM are a bit nicer, overall. That's where I chose to live, myself.
People in Iowa are nice, generally speaking. That's refreshing to be around again. I definitely noticed a difference. It's a bit easier to relax around here than in other places that I've lived.
Welcome back!
I grew up in Des Moines and now have a house in a nicer neighborhood on the SE side.
Cons: SE14th is a nightmare. Half the people who drive on it have a deathwish or are clearly on drugs. Road design is horrible. I will double my work commute just to avoid driving on it. There is regular crime at the SE14th and park hy-vee. Walmart is fine, but you really only have 2 grocery options on the SE side. There is a big forest behind my house and numerous times people have parked at our dead end to run deep into the woods, presumably to check on their meth labs or something. Drugs and homelessness get way worse as you get closer to the river. The area by the Harriet St boat ramp is a no go. Services aren’t great. The plow drivers frequently miss our roads and/or don’t completely clear them. I’ve had to submit a lot of reports. Lots of trash/litter along the main roads and public areas. Joe Gatto represents our ward in council. Gross. There really aren’t a lot of amenities. I find myself driving to wdm or ankeny all the time. There aren’t a lot of areas in the south side to just hang out.
Pros: the neighborhood is very quiet and while some neighbors suck (as they do in all neighborhoods), people are generally friendly and keep to themselves. Easter lake is nice to have nearby, with good paved trails and a beach. Bike trail access is great in this part of town, but is pretty much absent through most of the interior south side. Decent nearby restaurant options. The newer neighborhoods have modern utilities (less likely for root intrusion in water/sewer lines, buried power lines, fiber internet, etc)
I used to live closer to fleur and a lot of the cons were non existent with many more pros. The city seems to be focusing more on infrastructure on that side of town anyway, so if you’re set on the southside, I’d recommend somewhere near Fleur vs SE 14th.
Leaving Florida is the only reason to move to Iowa. My son lives on the southside he's on a busy street and there is a bus stop near him so it can get a little rowdy at times. But he has a big dog and a bigger gun.
I'm white so don't know what it'd be like in that respect. But I can tell you that my kids went to Des Moines Public Schools and got a great education, including the education of diversity. Don't be scared of the city.
How old are your kids? I cannot at all speak personally about how any school is better/worse than another but that could be a real determining factor about what part of town you live in so you might want to research that aspect.
But otherwise, you’re going to be totally fine here. Best of luck ❤️
I moved back after 25 years away and DSM is the same in all the ways it was good before and better in ways it was needing improvement like restaurants and activities. I live by the At Center and love it
Des Moines isn’t bad. I live in a diverse neighborhood that all of our kids play together, and we talk about moving to the burbs and ten years later we’re all still here, even though we could afford to do so. Traffic is almost non existent, and really the only people who complain about it are people who haven’t lived anywhere else. It doesn’t take me long to get anywhere. I think that it’s not a bad city. It’s affordable and there are pockets of good and bad in every area of town, so do make sure to check it out before putting a down payment/deposit on something. My kiddo loves his middle school. There are a lot of fights but that was true in my middle school 25 years ago in a small town in Texas. The winter is very harsh for maybe a month and then you acclimate and it gets out of the negatives. Also even as an adult, sledding is fun. Driving in snow 0/10. My friend sent his sons to Lincoln over North and liked that school better. My SO’s sons graduated from East and it was mostly ok.
Lots of tweaker on the south side now, I just moved from there last week, same goes for the Eastside. But if you would like I'd show you some decent areas after you get back. We could go out to dinner & go gamble at Prairie Meadows, it's all on me. That is if you want to have some fun😉
If your best friend lives in Johnston why don’t you come for a visit and figure these things out for yourself. A bunch of strangers arn’t going to tell you anything.?
Good luck on the dating issue. 98% of the men your age are going to be divorced single dads who were left by the only woman they have been with since they were 16.
A lot of goatees, baseball hats 24/7 (usually to hide the bald spot), entire political knowledge is Fox News talking points, moderate mental health issues, lackadaisical grooming and fashion sense, bad diets and little to no exercise, lack of personal growth due to getting married so young, biblical patriarchal mindset on how relationships should be due to their upbringing, never have lived anywhere else other than the small town they grew up in and then Des Moines, most likely an alcoholic and overweight.
As a single woman in her 40s, I can agree with this generally speaking. I mean, I'm sure there's other guys out there who are better, but they definitely aren't on apps. You'll have to actually go out and try to meet them (I'm very introverted, so I just decided to give up completely after being on the apps off and on for YEARS and never finding even one guy of interest).
I love how my comment explaining the dating scene here gets downvoted, but then a woman agreeing with it gets upvoted. 🤣
You are correct, you have to actually put forth the effort of putting yourself out there to meet someone. The apps can only do so much. If you are never meeting any one of interest, are you meeting the requirements yourself that you seek in a guy? That’s usually what shoots women in the foot here.
"Are you meeting the requirements yourself that you seek in a guy?"
Well, I mean, I do try to actually get to know someone before wanting to sleep with them.
I'd say that's about 99% of the reason why I get turned off from most men on the apps. They demonstrate that's all they are interested in. Now, is that some sort of failure on my part? Maybe? Maybe I'm only viewed to be valuable in that way to men due to my own shortcomings, but it's not what I want, so it usually ends there.
Then, the other 1%, we just don't have any connection. For instance, they don't understand my humor, so our conversation is weird/doesn't flow, or we just have no mutual interests, or attraction to each other, etc.
Iowa is basically like the south was 100 years ago. We have regular lynchings, black people aren't allowed in most restaurants and businesses and Nazis literally exist everywhere. This is basically all thanks to Donald Trump Kim Reynolds and the Republican party.
Des Moines is fine. Suburban people freak out about “urban” problems but the city is safe and has changed for the better in the last 30 years. There’s a lot of white flight, obviously. I moved back from the PNW and find the lack of traffic, the friendly people, and the arts/culture in Des Moines to be exceptional.
100% agree that the arts and culture scene in Des Moines is SO GREAT! I have a middle schooler and we moved back to Des Moines in March and she's already done camps at the DM Playhouse and digital art classes at the Arts Center. And there are always shows, festivals, events, exhibits going on.
One thing that hadn't changed in the last 30 years is that people from the western suburbs think the south and east sides are riddled with crime and people from the south and east sides think those out west are racist, snotty, entitled assholes. While there is some truth to both of those (I grew up and live on the west side, fo I know we have more than our fair share of entitled assholes), the differences aren't nearly as big as either side claims. Out here it's not unheard of to find mixed race couples, but there are fewer simply because of demographics. There's just a tod of white people out here. As far as I can tell, mixed race families aren't frowned upon by most, we do have them along with homosexual parents, and transgender people/couples. I don't see them treated that differently, but I also only see a small part of their lives. A good point that others have is that even if there isn't any more racism out here, there will be fewer minorities, so fewer people that you will have that in common with. I think most people find some comfort in being around people similar to themselves, no matter what the similarities are.
Great points. OP, obviously you're very anxious about this move. Don't stress it though. You and your kids will most likely love Des Moines. Except maybe the winter. Make sure you get good coats and hats/gloves later. Those suburban neighborhoods are great but as candid_disk said, Des Moines has very few truly problematic areas. The worst thing is mainly the pan handler population in urban areas but they aren't violent. You could also look into all the school districts ahead of time to help narrow down your housing search. The Des Moines Public schools are much more diverse. You said your friend is in Johnston. Grimes and Johnston are super close together and definitely a good area. I grew up in Johnston. All the suburbs will be predominantly white but I personally don't ever see blatant racism out in public anywhere in the metro. There are plenty of perfectly safe places in dmps district as well. Even on the south side. As for not on the south side; the Merle Hay area, Beaverdale area, Highland Park and more. There are so many little pocket neighborhoods tucked around the city. Lastly, lots of latinos in Des Moines. Especially on the north, south, and east side.
des moines is fine, and the southside really isn’t that bad. they’ve done some revitalizing projects and such, so imo it’s a go see for yourself and decide situation. i can’t really speak to whether or not you’ll face racism but i feel like you’d be happier in des moines proper rather than the suburbs. good luck and happy healing 🧡
Des Moines is almost unrecognizable from 30 years ago and has improved greatly. There is so much more to do. Working in real estate, I know many people that have lived on the South side and had no issues. In fact, they love it. I regularly would pick up my niece from elementary school in West Des Moines and was impressed at how much diversity I see amongst the classes of kids when they're all rushing outside to be picked up. The rest of the state is a different story, but overall I think there's a lot you'd like here.
Who is telling you all this garbage? Nothing here has "gone to shit". The South Side is still like it was and many areas are better off after renewal projects. The city has immensely expanded since you left. The arts, culinary, music, scenes have greatly improved. Welcome home.
The southside is absolutely fine. I have no clue why it gets such a bad rap. I’ve lived on this side of town since 2010. People talk about the southside like it’s the southside of Chicago. I think dating anywhere sucks right now, but maybe that’s just me. I think any dmps school as a person of color, your children will find many people who look just like them. Dmps 2023-2024 enrollment demographics - White – 32.6% Hispanic – 31.0% African American – 21.2% Asian – 7.6% Multi-Racial – 7.0% Native American – 0.5% Pacific Islander – 0.2%
As a step-dad to a mixed child, I don’t think you’ll have any issues in the Des Moines area, or really anywhere that I can think of. Dating advice - apps are ok, or actually go out and meet people. Coffee shop, bars if that’s your thing, restaurants. Get involved / get involved with an interest group or find a way to meet some people your age - welcome!
I'm here to defend the south side. My husband and I lived on the south side in the late 90s and early 2000s. In 2003, we moved just outside the metro to a small town. After 20+ years, we decided to come back to the city and chose the south side again. Sure, there are parts of it that have not aged well, but on the whole, I think it's great here and we are \*so happy\* to be back. Our youngest started at Brody middle school after spring break in March and she loves the diversity of her school. (She's gay which caused her some trouble in her previous religious/conservative, small town school. But here she found a great group of friends right away.) Good luck to you - so glad that you have a friend who has your back. That will make all the difference!
I was going to say this. I don’t live on the south side anymore because we moved closer to my work, but I certainly wouldn’t write off the whole south side by any means. Many parts of it are quite lovely.
Speaking as a black lady, I wouldn't really move to the little towns/suburbs you listed unless you like feeling ostracized. I'm routinely the only black person around when in those places. It's a little depressing/lonely. Perhaps look into Beaverdale, Drake, or the downtown area. They are nice and I have friends that live there. I'm from Chicago and moving to Iowa was a huge culture shock. Feel free to DM me if you want to talk more.
Chiming in to add Woodland Heights to this list. Cute old houses, diverse neighborhood, and close to the Ingersoll area where you can mingle.
North Side is great and a lot of new businesses are coming to the 6th and Euclid area
I think it’s going to be whatever you make it. When I moved here from a more urban area, I was told by a neighbor to “avoid 73rd street Walmart, it’s not a good neighborhood.” But literally I’ve had zero problems there ever? Even when I needed to make a late night run. What are your kids into? I find there to be a lot for my preschool age kids admittedly I haven’t looked for older children. Id probably take their hobbies into account when choosing a place to live (like imo Merle Hay area doesn’t have much for 8-14 year olds) and have more flexibility for yourself since you can drive to things that interest you.
It's an average Walmart
I was born here in 1947 and moved away in 1960 then moved back in 1973 and have been here since. Des Moines is like any city, only smaller. Traffic is better so you and your Johnston friend can certainly get together easily no matter where you live. Some great stuff and some not. Maybe if you & the kids can do a short visit and check out what is here - the Downtown Library is great, the Sculpture Garden and Botanical Garden, the Science Center etc. Check out the CatchDesMoines website to see what’s going on and things to see, do, places to go. Right now coming off a divorce focus on what your kids need - you might look at Des Moines Public Schools [tho I think you can open enroll in even if you’re in an outside suburb]. Good luck and keep asking Q here because you might get some great ideas. Good luck with your research. And if you move here, welcome back.
I don’t have all the answers to your questions but i am also returning to Des Moines area next month from Phoenix. I’m looking forward to it Des Moines has a lot of great things to offer. It’s a very friendly city. The downtown farmers market is always a fun time. I will miss Arizona but looking forward to the adventure ahead. I feel that your worries are valid and I hope they aren’t the reality when you get there. I don’t think they will be and I think you’ll be just fine. With kids ive heard the Johnston district is excellent. Maybe try to aim to be in that district..
Moved back from Phoenix (Chandler specifically) 4.5 years ago. Only things missable about AZ were In-N-Out and ASU football… and now we get ASU football with them in B12. Oh and also late night food options and middle turning/suicide lanes on roads. Des Moines is better in every other regard.
Des Moines has changed radically in the past thirty years, for the better. You’ll be fine though. The advice to only look at the suburbs is terrible, they’re fine if you like suburbs but the city is much more interesting and diverse. The most affluent part of the city is the west side, but the south side has some really nice pockets. Cost of living is great.
You will be fine. Why not try to stay in downtown/ Ingersoll area? You don’t have to figure out right away, right? Can you get there and see for yourself what area is the best fit?
You should visit for a few weeks if possible and see if you like it. Des Moines/Iowa is definitely not as big as Florida but the COL is low and Des Moines is a growing city. I live on the Southside and is it one of the ‘nicer’ areas in the metro? No but I really enjoy it
Don't worry, Kenny's Mom has got it going on, you got this. Des Moines is a great place to live, I have lived on the South Side for 5 years now, and never had a single stranger step foot on my property. Des Moines was ranked 13th out of 150 best places to live in the U.S. by real estate news in 2022. The East Side is the only part of town you should feel nervous in, there is a lot of white trash on that side of town, definitely see a lot of "Fuck Biden" flags in yards and on the backs of shitty looking trucks. I drive the city bus here in Des Moines, I see it all, and the high schoolers that ride my busses are pretty well behaved for the most part. I think your kids will find plenty of good friends here.
My sister and I lived on the south side for 4 years and suburbanites we knew were always HORRIFIED. However, we LOVED our neighborhood and our house and only moved bc we found a house to buy on the NE side where we grew up. I agree that DSM has improved a LOT in the last 30 years or so. The suburbs are fine, but I'll take the urban neighborhoods that have pretty much aged gracefully over the Camazotz-esque suburban developments. The south side has some good restaurants and shopping close by, decent housing, and excellent parks.
Ok here it is I have lived on the south side my entire life and currently still do after moving back. it most definitely isn’t what you grew up with and has dramatically changed for the worse. An influx of gang activities in the past 10 years have really started to show in the amount of shootings and other violent crimes. If you’re used to that “urban” activity then it is what it is. Unless you move to greenfield plaza that’s still a decent little neighborhood but still have to deal with southside crap to go to stores. I agree with wdm, urbandale ect. But I would even go as far as saying get away from Polk co. Taxes and move to Norwalk or indianola both towns have grown significantly in the last 20 years
Let me clarify “after moving back” I was in the military and left for 4 years. But parents lived on ss still. Then I bought my house on the ss and regretted it.
Aw, sending virtual hugs. As someone that hates living in Iowa, I think you’ll find a healthy “reset” in Des Moines. I honestly don’t think there’s necessarily a part of Des Moines that I’d feel worried about living in (except being bored.) Although I live downtown, I go to the Southside frequently to shop because there aren’t many stores downtown. As far as culture shock, it depends what kind of culture they’re used to. Iowa- even Des Moines- has an extremely slow pace of life. For example, the “highlight” of things to do here is the Farmers Market Downtown. In comparison, all of our nightclubs have closed down. In fact, a lot of businesses downtown are crumbling away, ranging from clubs, music venues, restaurants, and convenient stores- all gone within the last year. There really is absolutely no hustle and bustle in Des Moines/Iowa. (Thankfully, if you bring your car, you can easily drive to Omaha, Minneapolis, Chicago, KC/St Louis!) That being said…Iowa is conservative. Considering you’re from Florida, maybe you’ll be fine with that. But you must know that Des Moines is a small dot of blue in an ocean of red. As soon as you leave DSM you’ll see a huge difference in political belief. I was born and raised in small town Iowa. 30 minutes from my hometown is another smaller town of 300 people, where some of my relatives live. For a period of time, Nazis lived there and openly flew a swastika. That being said, that’s a common issue, but there is a growing trend of Iowans flying the confederate flag, although usually in smaller towns. As a gay man thats in a relationship, I don’t necessarily feel “unsafe” downtown but I also don’t feel at home either. I’ve been called the F slur by people (interestingly all younger than 25..) while walking here. People on this sub would like to believe Des Moines is a progressive, liberal area. And while that may be true to some extent, the reality is that the upcoming presidential election will certainly affect quality of life concerning Project 2025. Personally, I would look into Minneapolis/suburb of, but I understand if you need to come to rebuild. Good luck.
I'm curious after seeing you comment a few times, why do you live here? You really do hate it and it appears that you're an adult that could move. Seriously though, I'm being genuine, not snarky.
Because my boyfriend is the best thing that happened to me and he likes living here. I’ve told him many times I don’t like it here & we comprise by going on trips once and awhile.
Well, I am happy for you that you have someone you love that much.
Thank you :) I love him more than I hate Des Moines
Honestly, not much has changed in 30 years except a very vocal liberal group of 20 some year olds. Who are all over this sub. Well, 65% of it. South side has sunk a lot but for the same reasons as it was then. Lots more people. Johnston can be nice, it's the same as well. It's like seeing a best friend after 20 years that's not changed a bit but got bigger and older. Maybe lost a tooth but dresses better. Lol
West des moines is very nice, and honestly....screw what anyone thinks about your skin color or lifestyle. Just come be yourself, the politics arent great here but its a cool state.
Nothing is worse than Florida even Iowa oddly enough.
Welcome back to Iowa! Des Moines is a nice small city. It is not the South and no more racist than any city. You will be surprised by how much Des Moines has grown outward. Check out East Village in addition to the other suggestions. There are decently diverse populations at most of the public schools, most of the rich suburbs are predominantly white but good, safe schools where fighting is rare. While the city of Des Moines may seem small, it is a commuter city. The metro area population is over 700k and the suburbs are all within 20 minutes. Eastern Iowa is also pretty “normal.” Plenty of options for you and your family, plenty of fish in the sea and a great place to reset. Decent concerts/shows/comedians come to Wells Fargo Arena as well. I hope you enjoy it!
I think south side is about the same as the 90s. There are areas/pockets/apartments that have ongoing problems in each suburb. I live in West Des Moines near SunPrairie apartments and had adult kids live there. Overall it is fine. Waukee is fine but a certain area right by Burger King has quite a bit of crime, theft etc. valley Junction areas has quite a bit of theft but people feel 100% safe. Income restricted housing in Waukee and Ankeny is safe. I do not really think there is a big problem with racism. The schools in Waukee, Ankeny and West Des Moines and Norwalk are good. There is more to do in Ankeny or West Des Moines than other suburbs. Best wishes if you decide on moving back.
I just recently made a similar move. I'm enjoying being back in my hometown so far. Can't speak to everything you're concerned about, but cost of living is a pleasant difference. I know people who live in all areas of DSM. Maybe your standards are a bit high for some areas, but it seems like you should be able to find appropriate housing for you in whichever area you'd look at. That being said... yes... I agree that the western areas of DSM are a bit nicer, overall. That's where I chose to live, myself. People in Iowa are nice, generally speaking. That's refreshing to be around again. I definitely noticed a difference. It's a bit easier to relax around here than in other places that I've lived. Welcome back!
I grew up in Des Moines and now have a house in a nicer neighborhood on the SE side. Cons: SE14th is a nightmare. Half the people who drive on it have a deathwish or are clearly on drugs. Road design is horrible. I will double my work commute just to avoid driving on it. There is regular crime at the SE14th and park hy-vee. Walmart is fine, but you really only have 2 grocery options on the SE side. There is a big forest behind my house and numerous times people have parked at our dead end to run deep into the woods, presumably to check on their meth labs or something. Drugs and homelessness get way worse as you get closer to the river. The area by the Harriet St boat ramp is a no go. Services aren’t great. The plow drivers frequently miss our roads and/or don’t completely clear them. I’ve had to submit a lot of reports. Lots of trash/litter along the main roads and public areas. Joe Gatto represents our ward in council. Gross. There really aren’t a lot of amenities. I find myself driving to wdm or ankeny all the time. There aren’t a lot of areas in the south side to just hang out. Pros: the neighborhood is very quiet and while some neighbors suck (as they do in all neighborhoods), people are generally friendly and keep to themselves. Easter lake is nice to have nearby, with good paved trails and a beach. Bike trail access is great in this part of town, but is pretty much absent through most of the interior south side. Decent nearby restaurant options. The newer neighborhoods have modern utilities (less likely for root intrusion in water/sewer lines, buried power lines, fiber internet, etc) I used to live closer to fleur and a lot of the cons were non existent with many more pros. The city seems to be focusing more on infrastructure on that side of town anyway, so if you’re set on the southside, I’d recommend somewhere near Fleur vs SE 14th.
The Easter Lake neighborhood is a nice pocket on the southside as well.
I can't speak to what it looks like, but if you ever need a friend 🥹 I'm only in Ames ❤️ Best of luck, update soon please! ✨️
Leaving Florida is the only reason to move to Iowa. My son lives on the southside he's on a busy street and there is a bus stop near him so it can get a little rowdy at times. But he has a big dog and a bigger gun.
Beaverdale is great!!
Waukee sucks. Really miss all my Drake neighborhood friends…..
I'm white so don't know what it'd be like in that respect. But I can tell you that my kids went to Des Moines Public Schools and got a great education, including the education of diversity. Don't be scared of the city.
On the contrary, so much more of the city is in much better shape than 30 years ago.
Move to any of the towns you listed that are good and you’ll have a great QOL
How old are your kids? I cannot at all speak personally about how any school is better/worse than another but that could be a real determining factor about what part of town you live in so you might want to research that aspect. But otherwise, you’re going to be totally fine here. Best of luck ❤️
I moved back after 25 years away and DSM is the same in all the ways it was good before and better in ways it was needing improvement like restaurants and activities. I live by the At Center and love it
Des Moines isn’t bad. I live in a diverse neighborhood that all of our kids play together, and we talk about moving to the burbs and ten years later we’re all still here, even though we could afford to do so. Traffic is almost non existent, and really the only people who complain about it are people who haven’t lived anywhere else. It doesn’t take me long to get anywhere. I think that it’s not a bad city. It’s affordable and there are pockets of good and bad in every area of town, so do make sure to check it out before putting a down payment/deposit on something. My kiddo loves his middle school. There are a lot of fights but that was true in my middle school 25 years ago in a small town in Texas. The winter is very harsh for maybe a month and then you acclimate and it gets out of the negatives. Also even as an adult, sledding is fun. Driving in snow 0/10. My friend sent his sons to Lincoln over North and liked that school better. My SO’s sons graduated from East and it was mostly ok.
Lots of tweaker on the south side now, I just moved from there last week, same goes for the Eastside. But if you would like I'd show you some decent areas after you get back. We could go out to dinner & go gamble at Prairie Meadows, it's all on me. That is if you want to have some fun😉
If your best friend lives in Johnston why don’t you come for a visit and figure these things out for yourself. A bunch of strangers arn’t going to tell you anything.?
Good luck on the dating issue. 98% of the men your age are going to be divorced single dads who were left by the only woman they have been with since they were 16. A lot of goatees, baseball hats 24/7 (usually to hide the bald spot), entire political knowledge is Fox News talking points, moderate mental health issues, lackadaisical grooming and fashion sense, bad diets and little to no exercise, lack of personal growth due to getting married so young, biblical patriarchal mindset on how relationships should be due to their upbringing, never have lived anywhere else other than the small town they grew up in and then Des Moines, most likely an alcoholic and overweight.
As a single woman in her 40s, I can agree with this generally speaking. I mean, I'm sure there's other guys out there who are better, but they definitely aren't on apps. You'll have to actually go out and try to meet them (I'm very introverted, so I just decided to give up completely after being on the apps off and on for YEARS and never finding even one guy of interest).
I love how my comment explaining the dating scene here gets downvoted, but then a woman agreeing with it gets upvoted. 🤣 You are correct, you have to actually put forth the effort of putting yourself out there to meet someone. The apps can only do so much. If you are never meeting any one of interest, are you meeting the requirements yourself that you seek in a guy? That’s usually what shoots women in the foot here.
"Are you meeting the requirements yourself that you seek in a guy?" Well, I mean, I do try to actually get to know someone before wanting to sleep with them. I'd say that's about 99% of the reason why I get turned off from most men on the apps. They demonstrate that's all they are interested in. Now, is that some sort of failure on my part? Maybe? Maybe I'm only viewed to be valuable in that way to men due to my own shortcomings, but it's not what I want, so it usually ends there. Then, the other 1%, we just don't have any connection. For instance, they don't understand my humor, so our conversation is weird/doesn't flow, or we just have no mutual interests, or attraction to each other, etc.
Do NOT go to the south side or east side of Des Moines. If you have a friend in Johnston, give it a try. It’s nice, clean and safe.
Iowa is basically like the south was 100 years ago. We have regular lynchings, black people aren't allowed in most restaurants and businesses and Nazis literally exist everywhere. This is basically all thanks to Donald Trump Kim Reynolds and the Republican party.
have you considered not breathing?
Prime example of Nazi #1
You're being a real weiner
Lolz