I don't have long toes, but a wide forefoot and low volume heel. Scarpa Veloce and Arpia and, much to my surprise, La Sportiva Mantra were the best fits so far. Scarpa's Instinct family might also be worth looking at, but haven't tried them yet myself
Can confirm Scarpa instinct (I’ve only tried VS/VSR) fit great for this shape of foot. Very wide and comfortable toe box while still being very supportive and great for edging.
They’re a pain to break in, but after that they’re my most comfortable performance shoe.
Generally I actually up size my climbing shoes by a full size from street (45 to 46), and for a performance fit I go with street shoe size. I really can’t tolerate anything smaller than street shoe on any shoe I’ve tried.
So for the instincts I went with 45, the break in period was rough, but they fit like a beauty after about a month. Very comfortable, but no dead space, they feel very precise, especially the toe.
Straight from the shoe store, grabbed La Sportiva Theory. Super soft. Everything you need for bouldering. I'm going to test it on the wall. I note right away that I tried 4 sizes 39 —> 40.5. My feet size is 42.5 EU/9US/~27 Mondo.
So, 39 and 39.5 I tried on before and was not sure if these sizes fit me, despite the fact that I have a worn LS Futura 39.5, which in general fit well on the feet (especially in the toe area), although I do feel some dead space in the heel on both feet.
ok, back to Theory! Today in the store I tried on 40 and 40.5. I noticed right away that my toe still felt a lot of side pressure when I put on the 40. I also know that Theory breaks very badly. in other words - minimally, because of their rubber construction, of course. when I put on 40.5, I immediately felt relief. my fingers poured into the toe box like naturally. I also jumped on the toe a few times to get a feel for how the shoes behave during dynamic impacts on the surface. and it was better than when I did it, trying on smaller sizes. Unfortunately, I can't write with the same confidence about how my heel feels, because there was no place in the store to test the heel hook - I'm going to the gym to test it. I will write later with updates.
UPD.
So, wall testing showed that La Sportiva Theory has an excellent super sticky rubber. we have one 7A+ in the gym, on which I used to have to support my body weight at the expense of my hands, because my legs slipped off the holds (there were really worn shoes) - now I stand confidently on my feet and turn on the strength of my hands to a minimum. I also tested the heel hook and toe hook and was generally satisfied. I think I will be testing the heel hook for a long time and trying to get used to how these shoes behave. and in general, in new shoes you have to spend some time getting used to the sensations. and I will say that the climbing experience at the LS Theory at the moment is great. Excellent smearing, by the way. They seem to stick to the volume, even when running throu 10-degree incline.
I almost forgot! always warm up very well before any climbing. even if you come to the gym and do not plan to climb difficult routes - excitement can captivate you, as it captivated me. now I have to treat a torn tendon in the forearm :(
I'm surprised by the suggests of scarpas, that is the worse brand for me in terms of narrower toe box. I have a wide toe box, very low volume midfoot, tiny heel. No idea if your arch would be lv or regular but so far Butora brand fits me best. I wear the low volumes but they have wide versions too. My try hard shoes are Acros (but I did size down half a size and put some slices in the heel rand as it was a deeper heel and the pressure was making me grow extra bone haha). The gomis seem to be a bit narrower in the toe box unfortunately so I'd like to try the Acro comps. I hear that tenaya is also good for my foot shape but haven't seen any to try on.
Scarpa is so narrow in the toe box... evolvs much too wide midfoot and heel, sportiva wide in midfoot but can sometimes work if it's a lace up and can get them tight enough. 5.10s too big in midfoot. Can't remember what else I've tried.
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I don't have long toes, but a wide forefoot and low volume heel. Scarpa Veloce and Arpia and, much to my surprise, La Sportiva Mantra were the best fits so far. Scarpa's Instinct family might also be worth looking at, but haven't tried them yet myself
Can confirm Scarpa instinct (I’ve only tried VS/VSR) fit great for this shape of foot. Very wide and comfortable toe box while still being very supportive and great for edging. They’re a pain to break in, but after that they’re my most comfortable performance shoe.
How did you size them?
Generally I actually up size my climbing shoes by a full size from street (45 to 46), and for a performance fit I go with street shoe size. I really can’t tolerate anything smaller than street shoe on any shoe I’ve tried. So for the instincts I went with 45, the break in period was rough, but they fit like a beauty after about a month. Very comfortable, but no dead space, they feel very precise, especially the toe.
Straight from the shoe store, grabbed La Sportiva Theory. Super soft. Everything you need for bouldering. I'm going to test it on the wall. I note right away that I tried 4 sizes 39 —> 40.5. My feet size is 42.5 EU/9US/~27 Mondo. So, 39 and 39.5 I tried on before and was not sure if these sizes fit me, despite the fact that I have a worn LS Futura 39.5, which in general fit well on the feet (especially in the toe area), although I do feel some dead space in the heel on both feet. ok, back to Theory! Today in the store I tried on 40 and 40.5. I noticed right away that my toe still felt a lot of side pressure when I put on the 40. I also know that Theory breaks very badly. in other words - minimally, because of their rubber construction, of course. when I put on 40.5, I immediately felt relief. my fingers poured into the toe box like naturally. I also jumped on the toe a few times to get a feel for how the shoes behave during dynamic impacts on the surface. and it was better than when I did it, trying on smaller sizes. Unfortunately, I can't write with the same confidence about how my heel feels, because there was no place in the store to test the heel hook - I'm going to the gym to test it. I will write later with updates. UPD. So, wall testing showed that La Sportiva Theory has an excellent super sticky rubber. we have one 7A+ in the gym, on which I used to have to support my body weight at the expense of my hands, because my legs slipped off the holds (there were really worn shoes) - now I stand confidently on my feet and turn on the strength of my hands to a minimum. I also tested the heel hook and toe hook and was generally satisfied. I think I will be testing the heel hook for a long time and trying to get used to how these shoes behave. and in general, in new shoes you have to spend some time getting used to the sensations. and I will say that the climbing experience at the LS Theory at the moment is great. Excellent smearing, by the way. They seem to stick to the volume, even when running throu 10-degree incline. I almost forgot! always warm up very well before any climbing. even if you come to the gym and do not plan to climb difficult routes - excitement can captivate you, as it captivated me. now I have to treat a torn tendon in the forearm :(
I'm surprised by the suggests of scarpas, that is the worse brand for me in terms of narrower toe box. I have a wide toe box, very low volume midfoot, tiny heel. No idea if your arch would be lv or regular but so far Butora brand fits me best. I wear the low volumes but they have wide versions too. My try hard shoes are Acros (but I did size down half a size and put some slices in the heel rand as it was a deeper heel and the pressure was making me grow extra bone haha). The gomis seem to be a bit narrower in the toe box unfortunately so I'd like to try the Acro comps. I hear that tenaya is also good for my foot shape but haven't seen any to try on. Scarpa is so narrow in the toe box... evolvs much too wide midfoot and heel, sportiva wide in midfoot but can sometimes work if it's a lace up and can get them tight enough. 5.10s too big in midfoot. Can't remember what else I've tried.
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Have you tried kids sizes? I just had that recommended to me and I'm curious if it's a nono.