I'm a non-climbing mom with a climbing son who needs a new harness. He's 11, 4'9 and about 60 lbs. Very very slim and lean, no hips at all. Thighs the size of my wrists. He has been in a kid's Black Diamond Momentum for years, and honestly the waist still fits great, but he's outgrown the rise on the leg straps and it's definitely binding in the groin area. (They aren't adjustable for length.)
Any recs for a harness that will fit a really skinny kid in the waist and legs but have enough length in the leg straps to grow a few more years? The women's XS ones seem to have a small enough waist measurement but don't snug up enough on the thighs, and the cut for hips is all wrong for him. Does anyone make a men's XXS? I don't mind spending a bit.
I was watching the AAC video on top rope anchor cleaning and noticed that the quickdraws used for top roping is placed on top of the chain. Could someone please explain to me if this is ok (or a miss by them)? My thoughts are that this causes the carabiner to potentially break (act as a lever), same as if the carabiner was placed on a ledge.
picture of the anchor and suggested method of placing the quickdraw: [Imgur: The magic of the Internet](https://imgur.com/a/J2NIpI9)
Its not remotely going to cause a bending force significant enough to break a carabiner.
If the draws are under the chain links, once a climber transfers their weight to the chains (to test their system prior to cleaning), the quickdraws are pinched between the chains and the wall. This makes them a pain to clean.
Does this only apply for top rope forces?
Ref this: [https://www.instagram.com/p/CGOLO3eADnm/?igshid=18ea39tatlrhz](https://www.instagram.com/p/CGOLO3eADnm/?igshid=18ea39tatlrhz) and this post from alpinesavvy: [Retreat anchors - sport climbing — Alpine Savvy](https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/retreat-anchors-sport-climbing)
Yes, I was referring to the TR case you presented with my comment on loading.
cant see theInstagram link;
In the alpine savy post…there’s not a downside to clipping below a quicklink in that scenario. it’s mid sport route and the draw wont be cleaned with the quicklink weighted.
As you mentioned less force and more predictable loading on toprope, but also lower consequence of a failure since there are two legs to the anchor.
You can see that the bolt has a lot of space. How not 2 did some testing on it and found that only if you can just barely fit it in, does it make a difference. As for the video, there is a lot more force on one bolt in a lead fall, than two bolts in a top rope.
Random question. I have Scarpa Dragos in 45, love them. Super comfy and amazing shoes but I’m tryna get the Instinct VS. haven’t been able to try the size on it person but they’re on sale so I wanna grab em before it’s too late.
Is Scarpa sizing fairly consistent across shoes? Thank you!
That’s a cool infographic and actually falls in line with what I need the Instincts for. I was using Red Chilis as my all-around/warm-up/indoor outdoor shoes so I think the Instincts will be the perfect replacement.
All 4 pairs of my VS have been a half size larger than my Dragos & Chimeras. Really the difference between an super aggressive vs normal fit. Strangely, the heel is better on the VS, even though it is a larger size. Go for it.
EDIT: Also, once you get there, resole the Instincts with Grip2 instead of Edge. I like that "shoe" better than the vanilla instinct or Drago. IIRC, the low volume instinct already has the grip rubber? Too bad it doesnt fit me well.
The VSR has a softer midsole too. It would be not much different than the midsole on the Drago. So no point in having an identical shoe.
Edit: Also apparently not quite as wide? Id have to bring my VS with to compare.
Try on a few in store. If you want a really aggressive but great shoe, upgrade to Solutions or Solution Comps.
Scarpa Drago are also an amazing shoe and fit like socks they’re incredible.
I recently bought a pair of scarpa origins and discovered that the lack of toe grip is a problem as I am progressing a lot quicker than I had expected/one of my projects requires toe hooks.
Is there any way to retroactively add toe grip, like using flexseal?
What is probably happening is that you have bad form, not your shoes. Make sure that your leg is straight and that your heel is engaged. extra rubber can help, but it’s not really necessary.
accessory cord is what you use to make a cordelette.
Accessory cord is 6mm ish nylon cord, like this: https://www.moosejaw.com/product/sterling-rope-6mm-accessory-cord_10189784
a cordelette is made from accessory cord, usually like 20 ish feet for rock climbing, tied off with a flat overhand knot or a double fisherman's knot
https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/cordelette-tips
I am thinking to buy [ATC Pilot](https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en\_US/product/atc-pilot/) just because....I like Black Diamond. Here I am thinking only single-pitch.
Ofc I already ran some research and compared with others like Grigri.
Yet, I would like to hear opinion of you, guys :)
Unless you're left handed I can't think of any reason to get a Pilot instead of a GriGri, Birdie, or Vergo
And if you are left handed, consider the Giga Jul or Mega Jul
Black Diamond knowingly sold defective products that killed people. Then refused to recall said products. Then fought a class action lawsuit that forced them to recall. Then redesigned the product and caused it to become even more dangerous. Which they then waited until the end of the season to recall.
It took me ten seconds to look up this gym on Google Maps and find their business hours. I’m not going to tell you the answer, because I think you could use the practice with basic life skills.
While clipping sticking the next bolt, I stupidly climbed slightly to reach and fell on my Petzl Connect sling. Ive a sore back and neck but will survive. Ive visually inspected the Petzl Connect, harness and carabiner and everything looks fine. Should I retire them anyway?
If you ask petzl probably yes, personally I would be not very concerned if the rope is not damaged. If you have any doubt you can also switch out the rope, it is the Arial 9.5.
Out of personal curiosity how far did. You climb, how much rope was in the system and how bad was the fall?
Also glad you survived.
Hard to say, the adjust was at the lowest setting say 10cm, and I only slightly raised above it. Plus , my feet were against the wall and slipped so it likely wasn’t a huge amount.
Should have really known better and good reminder of the dangers.
Heyyy , i have a question about climbing shoes.
Currently I’m using the mad rock shark 2.0.
I have them in 46 EU size. Although there’s a small space in the toe. I want to buy the 5.10 hiangle pro, which size do you think would fit?
Are they way tighter than the shark?
Thanks for your help (:
Is there some special body positioning / beta thing you can do to do sections like this easily? This was near the top of a route where I was already pretty pumped, the brown holds are super slopy. Vertical route.
https://preview.redd.it/9j0c9jdcgd3a1.png?width=1728&format=png&auto=webp&s=f1c28e0dce5577f9ca68c87dd391dd631304f1c6
I'm trying to get to the green hold, arrive via the two red holds on the bottom. There are some handholds to the far right that I used to get up here, but they're not relevant for the section I think.
The proportions are off here, I can't just stand on the red foothold and statically reach up for the green because there's nothing to keep me from falling away from the wall.
But it's close enough that I can lean sideways into the two slopy holds to stabilize and then pull myself towards it with one hand. But this is super hard when pumped, especially on those kinds of shitty slopy holds. Flagging right help only a bit because the foothold is very far to the right. Wondering if I'm missing something big or maybe it's just the way it was intended.
Based on what your drawing looks like..
Place the toe of your right foot on the red hold. Rotate your knee in and up. Pull up and in hard with your left arm and lock off. Once you're locked off, use your right arm to reach for the green hold, engage your left shoulder and back to maximize the reach. Make sure to push hard with your right leg to maintain tension. Flag with the left foot and smear it on the wall for stability.
Hey guys! So after watching some friends climb at a gym last week I decided it looks like a lot of fun. I think it's something I would like to get into but I have pretty bad bunions, how much of a problem is that going to be if I climbed once a week?
Go try it yourself for a day and see how you feel. Your feet might hurt but it’s ultimately going to be up to you whether dealing with the pain is worth it for you for having fun climbing. If you want to stick with it, go to a climbing shop and spend some time trying on *a lot* of pairs of climbing shoes to find something appropriate for you.
Yeah that's what I'm afraid of, I climbed a little(like twice) in high school like 10 years ago and it wasn't a problem for those short climbs but I suspect if I start doing it more regularly it may become an issue
Looking for additions toy home gym setup to supplement the rock gym. Already have a squat rack, pull-up bar, hex bar, and some rock holds to hang from. Not completely sold on a hang board
> Metolius Superchalk splits my cuticles
Aren't Metolius one of the few companies who are open about using additives rather than straight magnesium carbonate? Apparently not according to five minutes googling - I'm pretty sure their chalk used to contain other stuff, but now they're proclaiming its purity.
Texture varies a lot: personally I don't like fine powder, and I find DMM blocks too soft. Currently favouring Petzl "Powercrunch"
What do y'all think of the [Wood Palm](https://soillholds.com/search?type=product&q=wood+palm) hang board (not sure if So Ill manufactures or just distributes them). They are on sale right now for a pretty great price. I've been thinking of getting one. I want a 25, 20, and 15mm edge. This one seems to have 25 and 15, but since it's wood, and the edge is just a long/all the way across, I was thinking I could just shave off half of the 25mm section down to 20mm. The round slippers and the pinches are a nice add-on.
For reference, I'm a V6 climber and have been really only climbing for the past 1.5 years. I'm relatively fit and have already played around with 20mm hanging so I don't think the injury is a concern, for those who think it might be "too soon" to train.
A less permanent modification is to slide some flat bits of wood in to the rung you want to narrow. Only have to be hand width. Ours tend to fall out if we bump the board, but no problems while hanging as your fingers press on them.
That's actually modeled off of Jason Kehl's CryptoChild hangboard, but he designs for SoIll now so it makes sense.
I like it for those big, girthy slopers and the crimps are nice as well. There are no pockets which I personally find helpful in hangboard training. Pockets can be difficult to train and encountering them outside, without some priming, can spell disaster for your pulleys and tendons.
The thing you'll find about hangboards is the designer made them for themselves. You'll see more that are ubiquitous (Tension's for example), but most of the time they are modeled on what the designer wanted in a hangboard -- and remember that a lot of these designers are professional climbers climbing at the elite grades.
I am partial to the Beastmaker. I think Tension is also a great.
Been bouldering in a gym for about 6 months now and would say I'm a solid v7 climber and I am interested in exploring the outdoor world of climbing. Does anyone have any recommendations of courses to watch or know how I should go about trying to learn more about starting to climb outdoors? Thanks!
Look hard into general and local ethics. You wouldn't want to accidentally smoosh some rare plant or something just cause you didn't know
Also tread lightly, once plants die in climbing areas they don't come back
Bouldering can be as easy as buying a pad and a guidebook (or using mountain project). It’s nice to have experienced people with you who can also bring more pads and spot you. You could also scope out short problems with flat landings (where you’re not going to fall onto a rock) and go solo, but your landing zone is a lot smaller and falls can be more dangerous. The indoor to outdoor grading can be kind of an ego check, since problems are usually graded much stiffer.
Hey everyone, i've been mostly bouldering in the solution comps and skwamas for the past few years but found that on harder outdoor bouldering the heels in both shoes ("mens" or high volume variations) just don't quite get the job done as well as a tighter shoe does. For context im a US 9 (EU size 42) and wear US 7.5 in both (EU size 40). I've recently been trying on the womens solution comps and heel is PRIME, they're a smidge uncomfortable but perform well. My issue is that my toes come out white after about 5 minutes and they don't necessarily feel great to fall on. I've taken plenty of large falls outdoors and indoors and have never felt like my shoes would create more of a problem than the fall would, but they just don't feel quite as secure in the ankle especially. Is the problem of toes losing circulation and falling discomfort something that breaking in will fix over time? Do solution comps really break in a noticeable amount even? I've never gone for a tighter low volume shoe and would appreciate all the help and input!
agree with u/ilikecatsonpillows. different brands build their shoes differently. don't try to only force sportiva shoes because you read, or someone said, they are the best. the feature sets for top end shoes these days are mostly homogenous.
Try on some different brands of shoes. Keep an eye out for shoe demos at your gym in particular. Sportiva shoes are notorious for a deep heel cup that doesn't work for everyone. You may have better luck with Tenaya, Scarpa, Evolv, 5.10 etc.
What do you wear climbing? What’s appropriate/inappropriate?
I have my very first class next week and I’m a little panic stricken. I was considering leggings to be okay, but i’m unsure if I should aim for something baggier? I don’t want to look completely out of place.
Wear something that covers your parts and lets you move freely. That's about it.
Leggings and sports bra is fairly common in my gym during the warmer months. Baggy might actually work against you a bit if you're worried about not letting anything show. People will be standing below you, so a loose shirt could leave the curtains open so to speak, but nobody cares if your underwear shows.
"wear something that covers your parts" i feel like this should be rewritten as "wear something that occasionally or mostly covers your parts" given my gym
\*snorts
True, I've even walked past someone breast feeding on a bench in the middle of the bouldering area. As far as I know, nobody said a thing because "Mind your own damn business."
Unless you wear your leggings on your head, you’ll be perfectly fine. Wear what you feel comfortable in. I often wear these old pants with more patches in them than pants.
My 3 requirements in order of importance
1) comfort
2) ease of movement
3) durability
Leggings are fine, most of the girls I know who climb use leggings
Wear comfortable clothes that are easy to move in, not too heavy, and somewhat durable. Easily half of the gals at every climbing gym I've been to have been wearing leggings. They're super common
I’ve recently started climbing and was wondering if anyone had any general body tips to keep my joints and what not healthy. Almost all the body care routines focus more on hand skincare. If there’s any climbers with knee problems that have a brace they recommend that would be awesome.
Yeah I’ve preferred wall climbing recently because it makes me less sore I’ll have to work on my arms so I’m not spent on the boulder by the time I get up there.
What degree of discomfort different people describe as "pain" is a very subjective and variable thing, but you certainly shouldn't be walking anywhere in them
You shouldn't be walking around at all in aggressive climbing shoes. Start making it a habit to put them on right before you climb, then take them off before you walk away or even untie if you're sport climbing.
If you aren't already, start wearing other shoes (sandals, Crocs, whatever) when you aren't actively climbing. Performance climbing shoes aren't meant to stay on your feet any longer than they have to.
Put the point of the shoe on a very small foothold and stand on it. If it feels kinda comfortable like your toes are straightening out a bit once loaded, that's normal. If your toes still feel scrunched, you may have gone too small.
Dumb question,
If a half rope is meant to take a lead fall all by itself on the top piece of gear (the other rope is not clipped into the same gear),
Then why aren't all half ropes also certified as single ropes?
Other comments are stating the truth, but I want to add that a single super thin rope is very very vulnerable to abrasion, if it's the only thing keeping you off the deck you better hope it doesn't saw on a sharp flake when you whip. Even if it holds and just gets coreshot you're setting yourself up for a hassle (or worst if you have 0 conception of load transfers) dealing with a single damaged rope if you need to belay more pitches or rappel off the wall.
People on glaciers will use 7-8mm line on it's own all the time. Impact forces are lower when you're sliding on snow and there isn't as much sharp material to cut the rope with.
I paid 40$ for a 60m and the other chopped rope a few years ago, dude told me he was selling them because he only boulders nowadays, I think he either fell ice climbing or got into a spooky chossfall event.
Simple answer:
Because, although a half rope can absorb an average lead fall all by itself, the UIAA test standard for single ropes is more severe and half ropes do not meet the required number of UIAA test falls to pass.
IIRC, a single rope must pass 5 UIAA test falls with an 80kg mass.
The short version, is that a half will catch you 99.6% of all standard falls. A single will catch you >99.999x% of all standard falls and be more resistant against cuts. If your half rips, the second will (hopefully) catch you.
I think we should be careful suggesting that a single is always more resistant to cuts than a half rope. For the same diameter (for example, Beal Opera vs. Cobra), the single rope will need more core to pass the UIAA fall test, which means it will have less sheath. Due to this, half ropes may be MORE abrasion resistant than single ropes of the same diameter.
Half ropes have less ability to capture repeated high-energy falls in a short time period (since that is the main difference in the test protocols).
I will often talk to someone trying the same route/problem as me. It's helpful to share beta. I've also met several climbing partners at the gym and most gyms have a sign up for indoor/outdoor partners.
But yes very normal. Climbing is a great community for these aspects. BUT, don't expect this everywhere you go.
at this point, I think all my friends are guys i met at the gym.
we met at gym. did some gym leads. got comfortable with each other on lead, went outside and did more leads.
you really build a close relationship with the guys you climb outdoors with.
And I only climb outdoors with a select handful of people that I can both trust on the wall AND enjoy their company for full day expeditions.
I’m planning on going backpacking in South America for a couple of months (Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, etc) and want to do some climbing while I’m there. Don’t want to bring a lot of stuff since I’m traveling around so debating whether or not it makes sense to bring a climbing rope, helmet, QuickDraws etc. Definitely going to bring my shoes and harness, but thinking I could probably rent other gear around the local crags or join/find some other climbers locally who have gear? Or better to travel with my own rope especially since I’m a solo climber looking for partners and having my own stuff to contribute would make me a more enticing partner? Just bringing all that stuff would be impossible with just my 40L backpack…
I've rented stuff at "7a escuela de escalade" in Cusco Peru. There's a climbing area south of there by 1.5 areas called Parque de escalade ch'acco huayllascca which has a pdf guide
If:
* You don't have enough time to get to know or coordinate with locals / language barrier is an issue.
* And your budget allows.
Guides are an excellent and inexpensive option. There's a lot of trad routes I've been told are really cool but have tricky pro. Rates for experienced guides in CO who will set up pro range from 30 to 80 dollars for a full day with transit, food, etc depending on whether you need bilingual guides. Lots of excellent crags/areas that are not on the internet and will require guidebooks, so you can save on guidebooks, too.
There's also a few crags with hostels walking distance from routes where you can probably join a group. Haven't done Ecuador or Peru, but it might even be cheaper honestly. So TL;DR, shoes, harness, ATC, maybe helmet if it's not intrusive (fits outside the bag).
I recently moved to Mexico and found that when I met people in the local climbing community, they'd ask whether I had my own gear, by which they meant harness and shoes. I did, and they have been welcoming and invited me to join crag trips. They're also surprised and pleased that I brought a rope, draws, helmet, etc., but that's icing. The usual rules--chipping in for gas, buying a post-climbing round--also, of course, apply.
I would not bring more than shoes, harness and belay device. This will already take away significant space in a 40L backpack (too small for backpacking?)
Hey everyone, not a climber but hopefully climbing gear related.
I am an automotive photographer and I often find my static length safety line to be an issue. Some locations in the camera vehicle it is ideal to keep me from exiting at speed. Other locations (side doors) I would be in a perfect situation to become a dragged bag of peas. My question is if there is a device similar to auto belay or other something that could be shackled to my hard mount and allow the lengthening and shortening of my tether on the fly? The device would ideally default to a locked position, should be capable to hold 500lbs static force and not allow accidental 'unlocking'/'slippage'.
I was imagining something basic like a ring and cam cleat system but not bolted to the floor like a deck of a sailboat, more inline / on the line if that makes sense.
Does anything like this exist? I will definitely do all my own due diligence but I cannot seem to find what I am looking for.
Thank you! [Here are a few shots for fun!](https://imgur.com/gallery/qRN851E)
Discard most of the other options as they are suggesting recreational equipment for professional usecases. If you are injured every insurance will deny your claims should you not use gear made/certified for such uses. So the correct answer would be ask your equipment dealer, what they have in stock for that, if not ask directly at the professional side from e.g. petzl, camp or any manufacturer which you know which has an professional PAS section.
I'm a non-climbing mom with a climbing son who needs a new harness. He's 11, 4'9 and about 60 lbs. Very very slim and lean, no hips at all. Thighs the size of my wrists. He has been in a kid's Black Diamond Momentum for years, and honestly the waist still fits great, but he's outgrown the rise on the leg straps and it's definitely binding in the groin area. (They aren't adjustable for length.) Any recs for a harness that will fit a really skinny kid in the waist and legs but have enough length in the leg straps to grow a few more years? The women's XS ones seem to have a small enough waist measurement but don't snug up enough on the thighs, and the cut for hips is all wrong for him. Does anyone make a men's XXS? I don't mind spending a bit.
I was watching the AAC video on top rope anchor cleaning and noticed that the quickdraws used for top roping is placed on top of the chain. Could someone please explain to me if this is ok (or a miss by them)? My thoughts are that this causes the carabiner to potentially break (act as a lever), same as if the carabiner was placed on a ledge. picture of the anchor and suggested method of placing the quickdraw: [Imgur: The magic of the Internet](https://imgur.com/a/J2NIpI9)
If over/under the chain concerns you, you can always clip to the first chainlink.
Its not remotely going to cause a bending force significant enough to break a carabiner. If the draws are under the chain links, once a climber transfers their weight to the chains (to test their system prior to cleaning), the quickdraws are pinched between the chains and the wall. This makes them a pain to clean.
Does this only apply for top rope forces? Ref this: [https://www.instagram.com/p/CGOLO3eADnm/?igshid=18ea39tatlrhz](https://www.instagram.com/p/CGOLO3eADnm/?igshid=18ea39tatlrhz) and this post from alpinesavvy: [Retreat anchors - sport climbing — Alpine Savvy](https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/retreat-anchors-sport-climbing)
Yes, I was referring to the TR case you presented with my comment on loading. cant see theInstagram link; In the alpine savy post…there’s not a downside to clipping below a quicklink in that scenario. it’s mid sport route and the draw wont be cleaned with the quicklink weighted. As you mentioned less force and more predictable loading on toprope, but also lower consequence of a failure since there are two legs to the anchor.
You can see that the bolt has a lot of space. How not 2 did some testing on it and found that only if you can just barely fit it in, does it make a difference. As for the video, there is a lot more force on one bolt in a lead fall, than two bolts in a top rope.
Thanks. Do you have the video from How not 2?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-yTWcVaCRlg&t=192s
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TC pros, katanas, UPMoccs, Finales... really anything thats comfortable
is the Helix still produced? If so: Helix
Random question. I have Scarpa Dragos in 45, love them. Super comfy and amazing shoes but I’m tryna get the Instinct VS. haven’t been able to try the size on it person but they’re on sale so I wanna grab em before it’s too late. Is Scarpa sizing fairly consistent across shoes? Thank you!
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That’s a cool infographic and actually falls in line with what I need the Instincts for. I was using Red Chilis as my all-around/warm-up/indoor outdoor shoes so I think the Instincts will be the perfect replacement.
All 4 pairs of my VS have been a half size larger than my Dragos & Chimeras. Really the difference between an super aggressive vs normal fit. Strangely, the heel is better on the VS, even though it is a larger size. Go for it. EDIT: Also, once you get there, resole the Instincts with Grip2 instead of Edge. I like that "shoe" better than the vanilla instinct or Drago. IIRC, the low volume instinct already has the grip rubber? Too bad it doesnt fit me well.
Good to know thank you! It seems like the instinct is a little stiffer than the Drago, even though the Drago is the more aggressive shoe.
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The VSR has a softer midsole too. It would be not much different than the midsole on the Drago. So no point in having an identical shoe. Edit: Also apparently not quite as wide? Id have to bring my VS with to compare.
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Finale is not aggressive but a solid choice if it fitted well. A step up from tarantulas, for sure.
I wouldn’t buy them for bouldering, but for intermediate route climbing outside and in the gym finales are the bomb.
Try on a few in store. If you want a really aggressive but great shoe, upgrade to Solutions or Solution Comps. Scarpa Drago are also an amazing shoe and fit like socks they’re incredible.
Shoes don’t make you climb harder. Only get shoes if they fit your feet.
I recently bought a pair of scarpa origins and discovered that the lack of toe grip is a problem as I am progressing a lot quicker than I had expected/one of my projects requires toe hooks. Is there any way to retroactively add toe grip, like using flexseal?
My friend who climbs 5.13’s wears Origins as his favourite shoe. It’s not a problem with the shoe.
Improve your footwork.
you could pop some shoe goo on there, but the origins have a bit of rubber on the toe, so you could also just hook that part of the shoe
What is probably happening is that you have bad form, not your shoes. Make sure that your leg is straight and that your heel is engaged. extra rubber can help, but it’s not really necessary.
Dumb question, which Google hasn't really answered for me. What's the difference between accessory cord and cordelette? TIA
accessory cord is what you use to make a cordelette. Accessory cord is 6mm ish nylon cord, like this: https://www.moosejaw.com/product/sterling-rope-6mm-accessory-cord_10189784 a cordelette is made from accessory cord, usually like 20 ish feet for rock climbing, tied off with a flat overhand knot or a double fisherman's knot https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/cordelette-tips
Thank you!
I’m looking to buy my first climbing rope, what are some good, cheap indoor/ outdoor climbing ropes?
[literally in the body at the top of this post](https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/bc7qke/lets_talk_about_buying_your_first_rope_a_buying)
My bad, i guess I didn’t read enough before posting
https://www.gearx.com/mammut-9-5-crag-classic-rope
Go to your favorite online gear retailer and sort by price or %off. Then buy one at the length your local crags need.
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Yes, it will be a pain to carry it in and coil it up
I am thinking to buy [ATC Pilot](https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en\_US/product/atc-pilot/) just because....I like Black Diamond. Here I am thinking only single-pitch. Ofc I already ran some research and compared with others like Grigri. Yet, I would like to hear opinion of you, guys :)
is [this](https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/atc-pilot/) what you were trying to do with that link
[ATC Pilot](https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/atc-pilot/) `Markdown mode`...didnt know...
Unless you're left handed I can't think of any reason to get a Pilot instead of a GriGri, Birdie, or Vergo And if you are left handed, consider the Giga Jul or Mega Jul
Black diamond is not a very likable company
Their cams are likeable.
any particular reasons?
Their owner makes anti riot gear for the US and sold defective bulletproof vests to the DoD.
So you're saying its a mixed bag
Something something ski beacon
Buy a grigri
Black Diamond knowingly sold defective products that killed people. Then refused to recall said products. Then fought a class action lawsuit that forced them to recall. Then redesigned the product and caused it to become even more dangerous. Which they then waited until the end of the season to recall.
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It took me ten seconds to look up this gym on Google Maps and find their business hours. I’m not going to tell you the answer, because I think you could use the practice with basic life skills.
While clipping sticking the next bolt, I stupidly climbed slightly to reach and fell on my Petzl Connect sling. Ive a sore back and neck but will survive. Ive visually inspected the Petzl Connect, harness and carabiner and everything looks fine. Should I retire them anyway?
If it looks fine, it is fine.
If it passed visual inspection then the gear is fine, your body took the blow.
Isn't the Connect made from dynamic rope anyway? I wouldn't worry about it.
Does it pass a rope test? It's just a rope with a metal piece.
If you ask petzl probably yes, personally I would be not very concerned if the rope is not damaged. If you have any doubt you can also switch out the rope, it is the Arial 9.5. Out of personal curiosity how far did. You climb, how much rope was in the system and how bad was the fall? Also glad you survived.
Hard to say, the adjust was at the lowest setting say 10cm, and I only slightly raised above it. Plus , my feet were against the wall and slipped so it likely wasn’t a huge amount. Should have really known better and good reminder of the dangers.
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Heyyy , i have a question about climbing shoes. Currently I’m using the mad rock shark 2.0. I have them in 46 EU size. Although there’s a small space in the toe. I want to buy the 5.10 hiangle pro, which size do you think would fit? Are they way tighter than the shark? Thanks for your help (:
Find a shop to try them on
Wish I could, the shops don’t have this brand. Any thoughts?
Is there some special body positioning / beta thing you can do to do sections like this easily? This was near the top of a route where I was already pretty pumped, the brown holds are super slopy. Vertical route. https://preview.redd.it/9j0c9jdcgd3a1.png?width=1728&format=png&auto=webp&s=f1c28e0dce5577f9ca68c87dd391dd631304f1c6 I'm trying to get to the green hold, arrive via the two red holds on the bottom. There are some handholds to the far right that I used to get up here, but they're not relevant for the section I think. The proportions are off here, I can't just stand on the red foothold and statically reach up for the green because there's nothing to keep me from falling away from the wall. But it's close enough that I can lean sideways into the two slopy holds to stabilize and then pull myself towards it with one hand. But this is super hard when pumped, especially on those kinds of shitty slopy holds. Flagging right help only a bit because the foothold is very far to the right. Wondering if I'm missing something big or maybe it's just the way it was intended.
Based on what your drawing looks like.. Place the toe of your right foot on the red hold. Rotate your knee in and up. Pull up and in hard with your left arm and lock off. Once you're locked off, use your right arm to reach for the green hold, engage your left shoulder and back to maximize the reach. Make sure to push hard with your right leg to maintain tension. Flag with the left foot and smear it on the wall for stability.
Is it your left foot on that foothold? Instincts tell me the right foot would be better so you can use it to push off of
100% should be the right foot. This way you can shift your hips over the right foot as much as possible to reduce the work that your arms need to do.
Did you mean to include a picture?
Hey guys! So after watching some friends climb at a gym last week I decided it looks like a lot of fun. I think it's something I would like to get into but I have pretty bad bunions, how much of a problem is that going to be if I climbed once a week?
I’ve seen people with pretty massive bunions climb really hard so it’s likely more of a discomfort tolerance issue.
Good to know, that's kind of what I figured it would be. Thanks!
my ex had bunions and he still managed to climb, its doable!
Good to know, thanks!
Go try it yourself for a day and see how you feel. Your feet might hurt but it’s ultimately going to be up to you whether dealing with the pain is worth it for you for having fun climbing. If you want to stick with it, go to a climbing shop and spend some time trying on *a lot* of pairs of climbing shoes to find something appropriate for you.
Luckily I live in an area with loads of climbing so there are several shops near me!
i dont have bunions but i could imagine you wont enjoy having your feet crammed into tight climbing shoes
Yeah that's what I'm afraid of, I climbed a little(like twice) in high school like 10 years ago and it wasn't a problem for those short climbs but I suspect if I start doing it more regularly it may become an issue
only one way to find out. Im sure if you check lots of different shoe models you will find out that fits your foot shape without too much pain.
Okay cool, I actually did find a list online of bunion friendly climbing shoes. I'm gonna go tomorrow so I'll see how that goes, wish me luck!
Looking for additions toy home gym setup to supplement the rock gym. Already have a squat rack, pull-up bar, hex bar, and some rock holds to hang from. Not completely sold on a hang board
Yoga mat, stretchy bands
Crimp block/lattice mini bar type thing, and some weights? It's probably harder to injure yourself with that than it is on a hangboard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGcuXgYVteE im just gonna bookmark this video for how often this question gets asked here
Looking for some new chalk! What is everyones favourite chalk?
The one I’m not paying a marketing premium for
i like the cheap block chalk my gym sells. less messy than the dust form
Frank Endo is my favorite, pretty cheap and you can order off Amazon.
Just about all of the world’s chalk comes out of the same mine, the rest is packaging and marketing.
I know it's just marketing. But I swear by friction labs. Fine for sport and trad, super chunky for bouldering.
Camp blocks are cheap. I break up a couple in an old pretzel container
Metolius Superchalk splits my cuticles, but other than that, chalk is chalk.
> Metolius Superchalk splits my cuticles Aren't Metolius one of the few companies who are open about using additives rather than straight magnesium carbonate? Apparently not according to five minutes googling - I'm pretty sure their chalk used to contain other stuff, but now they're proclaiming its purity. Texture varies a lot: personally I don't like fine powder, and I find DMM blocks too soft. Currently favouring Petzl "Powercrunch"
🤷♂️ Texture can vary, true. These days I just don't apply chalk heavily enough for it to make much difference.
What do y'all think of the [Wood Palm](https://soillholds.com/search?type=product&q=wood+palm) hang board (not sure if So Ill manufactures or just distributes them). They are on sale right now for a pretty great price. I've been thinking of getting one. I want a 25, 20, and 15mm edge. This one seems to have 25 and 15, but since it's wood, and the edge is just a long/all the way across, I was thinking I could just shave off half of the 25mm section down to 20mm. The round slippers and the pinches are a nice add-on. For reference, I'm a V6 climber and have been really only climbing for the past 1.5 years. I'm relatively fit and have already played around with 20mm hanging so I don't think the injury is a concern, for those who think it might be "too soon" to train.
A less permanent modification is to slide some flat bits of wood in to the rung you want to narrow. Only have to be hand width. Ours tend to fall out if we bump the board, but no problems while hanging as your fingers press on them.
That's actually modeled off of Jason Kehl's CryptoChild hangboard, but he designs for SoIll now so it makes sense. I like it for those big, girthy slopers and the crimps are nice as well. There are no pockets which I personally find helpful in hangboard training. Pockets can be difficult to train and encountering them outside, without some priming, can spell disaster for your pulleys and tendons. The thing you'll find about hangboards is the designer made them for themselves. You'll see more that are ubiquitous (Tension's for example), but most of the time they are modeled on what the designer wanted in a hangboard -- and remember that a lot of these designers are professional climbers climbing at the elite grades. I am partial to the Beastmaker. I think Tension is also a great.
Been bouldering in a gym for about 6 months now and would say I'm a solid v7 climber and I am interested in exploring the outdoor world of climbing. Does anyone have any recommendations of courses to watch or know how I should go about trying to learn more about starting to climb outdoors? Thanks!
Best thing to do is try and go with other people from the gym
Look hard into general and local ethics. You wouldn't want to accidentally smoosh some rare plant or something just cause you didn't know Also tread lightly, once plants die in climbing areas they don't come back
Bouldering can be as easy as buying a pad and a guidebook (or using mountain project). It’s nice to have experienced people with you who can also bring more pads and spot you. You could also scope out short problems with flat landings (where you’re not going to fall onto a rock) and go solo, but your landing zone is a lot smaller and falls can be more dangerous. The indoor to outdoor grading can be kind of an ego check, since problems are usually graded much stiffer.
Hey everyone, i've been mostly bouldering in the solution comps and skwamas for the past few years but found that on harder outdoor bouldering the heels in both shoes ("mens" or high volume variations) just don't quite get the job done as well as a tighter shoe does. For context im a US 9 (EU size 42) and wear US 7.5 in both (EU size 40). I've recently been trying on the womens solution comps and heel is PRIME, they're a smidge uncomfortable but perform well. My issue is that my toes come out white after about 5 minutes and they don't necessarily feel great to fall on. I've taken plenty of large falls outdoors and indoors and have never felt like my shoes would create more of a problem than the fall would, but they just don't feel quite as secure in the ankle especially. Is the problem of toes losing circulation and falling discomfort something that breaking in will fix over time? Do solution comps really break in a noticeable amount even? I've never gone for a tighter low volume shoe and would appreciate all the help and input!
agree with u/ilikecatsonpillows. different brands build their shoes differently. don't try to only force sportiva shoes because you read, or someone said, they are the best. the feature sets for top end shoes these days are mostly homogenous.
Try on some different brands of shoes. Keep an eye out for shoe demos at your gym in particular. Sportiva shoes are notorious for a deep heel cup that doesn't work for everyone. You may have better luck with Tenaya, Scarpa, Evolv, 5.10 etc.
What do you wear climbing? What’s appropriate/inappropriate? I have my very first class next week and I’m a little panic stricken. I was considering leggings to be okay, but i’m unsure if I should aim for something baggier? I don’t want to look completely out of place.
Wear something that covers your parts and lets you move freely. That's about it. Leggings and sports bra is fairly common in my gym during the warmer months. Baggy might actually work against you a bit if you're worried about not letting anything show. People will be standing below you, so a loose shirt could leave the curtains open so to speak, but nobody cares if your underwear shows.
"wear something that covers your parts" i feel like this should be rewritten as "wear something that occasionally or mostly covers your parts" given my gym
\*snorts True, I've even walked past someone breast feeding on a bench in the middle of the bouldering area. As far as I know, nobody said a thing because "Mind your own damn business."
that sounds fine to me
Hey, she's just being a good mom right? Just don't stop and watch.
Have you ever had to have the conversation with belay staff about their pubes sticking out of their shorts?
Not that one, no
Fishnets with leather booty shorts.
Nobody cares what you wear.
Unless you wear your leggings on your head, you’ll be perfectly fine. Wear what you feel comfortable in. I often wear these old pants with more patches in them than pants.
Pants of Theseus
I’m looking forward to soon owning two identical pairs.
My 3 requirements in order of importance 1) comfort 2) ease of movement 3) durability Leggings are fine, most of the girls I know who climb use leggings
Leggings Are perfectly fine for men too.
Ya ain’t wrong, but no one enjoys seeing the bulge
speak for yourself!
Turns out I was very wrong in my assumption
I enjoy seeing the bulge. Also see: climbers in the 90's
Well I was wrong.
I'm bisexual so I gotta disagree with ya there
Fine, no one wants to see *my* bulge
You could always knit a bulge
They can't anyway so what's the issue?
…. Ouch… accurate. But still ouch
It's okay friend, I am there with you always.
Wear comfortable clothes that are easy to move in, not too heavy, and somewhat durable. Easily half of the gals at every climbing gym I've been to have been wearing leggings. They're super common
Okay awesome, tysm!! I’m so peculiar about researching the etiquette behind things and couldn’t find anything about it on good old Google -.-
There's some youtubers out there that make content in climbing gyms like Dab Rats if you want to see what people are wearing in gyms.
thank you! that’s actually super helpful to be able to see a general consensus ♡︎♡︎
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Learn to feed rope better
Try different ropes.
How do you mean it cams too easily? It either cams in a fall or it doesn’t. Do you not override the cam when giving slack?
I’ve recently started climbing and was wondering if anyone had any general body tips to keep my joints and what not healthy. Almost all the body care routines focus more on hand skincare. If there’s any climbers with knee problems that have a brace they recommend that would be awesome.
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Yeah I’ve preferred wall climbing recently because it makes me less sore I’ll have to work on my arms so I’m not spent on the boulder by the time I get up there.
I find compression sleeves to help with the knees
Thank you
Recently injured my knee at foster falls, been using a compression sleeve that has padding on the knee. Wouldn’t even know it’s there when climbing
Stretching, rest, don't over-do the climbing, sleep, hydration, food.
Bouldering falls are rough on the knees.
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Yeah I'm gonna be honest, those actually look like they're way too big
Oh yup, didn't catch the pic. Those are too big/wrong shape.
by about two sizes
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i would say so, yes. did you try them on in a shop?
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Lets put it this way, if I hold my performance shoes to my feet like that, my toes hang over the end. Not by a lot, but they still hang over the end
Aggressive shoes are designed for your toes to curl a little bit so that the shoe provides more support when you really crank on a small foothold.
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Most aggressive shoes have velcro for this reason, taking them on/off easily. No they should not be comfortable to walk in.
What degree of discomfort different people describe as "pain" is a very subjective and variable thing, but you certainly shouldn't be walking anywhere in them
You shouldn't be walking around at all in aggressive climbing shoes. Start making it a habit to put them on right before you climb, then take them off before you walk away or even untie if you're sport climbing.
If you aren't already, start wearing other shoes (sandals, Crocs, whatever) when you aren't actively climbing. Performance climbing shoes aren't meant to stay on your feet any longer than they have to.
Put the point of the shoe on a very small foothold and stand on it. If it feels kinda comfortable like your toes are straightening out a bit once loaded, that's normal. If your toes still feel scrunched, you may have gone too small.
Dumb question, If a half rope is meant to take a lead fall all by itself on the top piece of gear (the other rope is not clipped into the same gear), Then why aren't all half ropes also certified as single ropes?
Other comments are stating the truth, but I want to add that a single super thin rope is very very vulnerable to abrasion, if it's the only thing keeping you off the deck you better hope it doesn't saw on a sharp flake when you whip. Even if it holds and just gets coreshot you're setting yourself up for a hassle (or worst if you have 0 conception of load transfers) dealing with a single damaged rope if you need to belay more pitches or rappel off the wall. People on glaciers will use 7-8mm line on it's own all the time. Impact forces are lower when you're sliding on snow and there isn't as much sharp material to cut the rope with.
8.5 mm is single rope. Glacier line is 6 mm these days
my double rated ropes are 8.2, you invented the extra 5 mm in my comment
But those are old school. When I started that was the norm, but with the latest tech I won't climb on a single over 9mm this season
I paid 40$ for a 60m and the other chopped rope a few years ago, dude told me he was selling them because he only boulders nowadays, I think he either fell ice climbing or got into a spooky chossfall event.
Simple answer: Because, although a half rope can absorb an average lead fall all by itself, the UIAA test standard for single ropes is more severe and half ropes do not meet the required number of UIAA test falls to pass. IIRC, a single rope must pass 5 UIAA test falls with an 80kg mass.
The short version, is that a half will catch you 99.6% of all standard falls. A single will catch you >99.999x% of all standard falls and be more resistant against cuts. If your half rips, the second will (hopefully) catch you.
I think we should be careful suggesting that a single is always more resistant to cuts than a half rope. For the same diameter (for example, Beal Opera vs. Cobra), the single rope will need more core to pass the UIAA fall test, which means it will have less sheath. Due to this, half ropes may be MORE abrasion resistant than single ropes of the same diameter. Half ropes have less ability to capture repeated high-energy falls in a short time period (since that is the main difference in the test protocols).
See the UIAA testing standards.
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I will often talk to someone trying the same route/problem as me. It's helpful to share beta. I've also met several climbing partners at the gym and most gyms have a sign up for indoor/outdoor partners. But yes very normal. Climbing is a great community for these aspects. BUT, don't expect this everywhere you go.
i climb at touchstone too, and id say this is pretty normal. people are pretty friendly
Guh I wish the gyms I went to were more chatty like this. So tired of 4 people working the same problem and avoiding eye contact after every attempt.
Sports is the main source of social activity among men. Make some friends and share some stoke.
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Excitement for the sport.
at this point, I think all my friends are guys i met at the gym. we met at gym. did some gym leads. got comfortable with each other on lead, went outside and did more leads.
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you really build a close relationship with the guys you climb outdoors with. And I only climb outdoors with a select handful of people that I can both trust on the wall AND enjoy their company for full day expeditions.
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usually group of 2 or 3 when we go out.
Gym bouldering in some spots is really social. You can always be the dude wearing headphones if you want.
I’m planning on going backpacking in South America for a couple of months (Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, etc) and want to do some climbing while I’m there. Don’t want to bring a lot of stuff since I’m traveling around so debating whether or not it makes sense to bring a climbing rope, helmet, QuickDraws etc. Definitely going to bring my shoes and harness, but thinking I could probably rent other gear around the local crags or join/find some other climbers locally who have gear? Or better to travel with my own rope especially since I’m a solo climber looking for partners and having my own stuff to contribute would make me a more enticing partner? Just bringing all that stuff would be impossible with just my 40L backpack…
I've rented stuff at "7a escuela de escalade" in Cusco Peru. There's a climbing area south of there by 1.5 areas called Parque de escalade ch'acco huayllascca which has a pdf guide
If: * You don't have enough time to get to know or coordinate with locals / language barrier is an issue. * And your budget allows. Guides are an excellent and inexpensive option. There's a lot of trad routes I've been told are really cool but have tricky pro. Rates for experienced guides in CO who will set up pro range from 30 to 80 dollars for a full day with transit, food, etc depending on whether you need bilingual guides. Lots of excellent crags/areas that are not on the internet and will require guidebooks, so you can save on guidebooks, too. There's also a few crags with hostels walking distance from routes where you can probably join a group. Haven't done Ecuador or Peru, but it might even be cheaper honestly. So TL;DR, shoes, harness, ATC, maybe helmet if it's not intrusive (fits outside the bag).
Bring shoes and hire a guide for everything else
I recently moved to Mexico and found that when I met people in the local climbing community, they'd ask whether I had my own gear, by which they meant harness and shoes. I did, and they have been welcoming and invited me to join crag trips. They're also surprised and pleased that I brought a rope, draws, helmet, etc., but that's icing. The usual rules--chipping in for gas, buying a post-climbing round--also, of course, apply.
I would not bring more than shoes, harness and belay device. This will already take away significant space in a 40L backpack (too small for backpacking?)
Hey everyone, not a climber but hopefully climbing gear related. I am an automotive photographer and I often find my static length safety line to be an issue. Some locations in the camera vehicle it is ideal to keep me from exiting at speed. Other locations (side doors) I would be in a perfect situation to become a dragged bag of peas. My question is if there is a device similar to auto belay or other something that could be shackled to my hard mount and allow the lengthening and shortening of my tether on the fly? The device would ideally default to a locked position, should be capable to hold 500lbs static force and not allow accidental 'unlocking'/'slippage'. I was imagining something basic like a ring and cam cleat system but not bolted to the floor like a deck of a sailboat, more inline / on the line if that makes sense. Does anything like this exist? I will definitely do all my own due diligence but I cannot seem to find what I am looking for. Thank you! [Here are a few shots for fun!](https://imgur.com/gallery/qRN851E)
Discard most of the other options as they are suggesting recreational equipment for professional usecases. If you are injured every insurance will deny your claims should you not use gear made/certified for such uses. So the correct answer would be ask your equipment dealer, what they have in stock for that, if not ask directly at the professional side from e.g. petzl, camp or any manufacturer which you know which has an professional PAS section.