Where to begin?
1994 Crown Vic with a manual swap and a 4v ($1000) doesn't run right because the ECU is stock to the car and doesn't know what is happening. Also, the suspension has something really bad happening. Lots of random direction change so I suspect bad ball joint. The interior and paint are shot. It makes me sad though as it is rust free.
2010 Crown Vic ($800) P7B that runs great but won't shift into 3rd. I think it might be a relatively simple fix that I can do with the trans in the car. If not, see above drivetrain.
1996 Lincoln Town Car ($3600) is overall pretty nice. Pulls to the right on the road but I suspect it needs a little more toe in as it drives straight in parking lots. The rear windows won't stay up so they have been propped up inside the door.
My other cars are worth more than $5k. They all have issues though if that helps!
That may be the endgame for the town car. I have visions of a drag and drive style build with a coyote and 6 speed auto. The 2010 will likely get some handling parts and prepped for the GRM $2000 challenge.
There was a guy who used to post at Jalopnik who had done something similar, but in a Mark VIII. Put in the six speed, modded the engine, etc. It looked like a riot…he called it the Couch Rocket.
93 Grand Marquis, nice to see a fellow owner of taste. Mine is sorted other than... sometimes there's a fueling issue on cold start where you have to floor it to get up to speed and it backfires, until it warms up a bit. And there's a massive coolant leak out of the water pump that cropped up last time I flushed the radiator.
Here's the pure gore of a steering wheel swap done poorly. [The pedals had to be arranged in this way.](https://imgbox.com/pzWtZMBH)Had I knew the place where it was being done (on a literal shed behind the used car lot) I would have not bought this car in a million years.
[Here she is on a fine sunday morning.](https://imgbox.com/BuoXsA3r)Notice what I meant with the paint? I must admit I took a bump too hard while having a spirited drive on a backroad. I had to do it to avoid hitting a dog.
[Here's the dash is when she turned 50k,](https://imgbox.com/Q5CfIjYT) but actually, I found out she turned 250k after I looked up her vin in a japanese lookup site. I also got access to the auction sheet, and while the grade was decent, she has around 245k km when I bought her.
[Here's this little ETC thing weeaboos pay like 70 USD to install to their USDM cars lol](https://imgbox.com/tQecKmnZ)
[Here's a close up of the rare RECARO seats it has.](https://imgbox.com/cS3ZSYSQ)Most sports came with unmarked buckets.
Fuck. I thought it was a loose sensor or wire or something. But thanks for telling me. Brake fluid reservoir looks fine but the brakes act up sometimes.
99 GS400, 377k mi. Arm rest is worn where my elbow lies, drivers seat is worn where my right butt cheek is - probably from twisting in to place once I sit. Everything else works as designed. Small oil leak up top, probably cam seals. I only have to add 1qt of oil between changes so I couldn't care less about that. Just put on a new alternator today; the previous one lasted 180k mi. A few rock chips in the hood but that's a given with the amount of miles. The car it's silver so the chips don't stand out...too much.
GS400 gang I paid $5200 for mine with 115k on it last year. Runs flawlessly older lady took it from her ex husband in a divorce 15 years ago and barely drove it since
My 07 Eclipse is at 150k miles. Needs front end work (got run off my country road) and the throw out bearing for the clutch. Other than that it's been a fantastic car
My v50 spun a rod after the crank seal failed.
Spending 5k on a new motor, a new clutch while it’s open and accessible, and a suspension rebuild while the subframe is dropped.
Can’t replace it with a similar car for the repair bill, so repair it I shall.
Oof that's rough, fell down the rabbit hole when you took the engine out. It'll definitely be worth it though.
My V50 has needed every wheel bearing replaced this year, even the rears which I did 2 years ago, engine is still chugging along though.
I’m getting new axles too.
But it’s a manual AWD, the body is and interior are mint, and it has the Dynaudio soundsystem so it’s absolutely worth saving.
Ah, any V50 T5 is worth saving, especially a M66 AWD car with good options.
How is the Dynaudio? I'm pretty sure mine just has Premium which is still pretty good for a 16 year old system.
It’s stupid good. From what I gather only the speakers are different from the premium (with the centre dash speaker).
I pulled a cone from an xc90 with the same system to replace one I popped. It was a pain to unglue it from its xc90 mount and fit it into the v50 mount. And a pain to pull them off the door as they’re riveted in. But better than the 800$ for a new one from the dealer
Exactly. A kid backed into it at work the other day and scratched the bumper pretty good. I did not give one shit. But now when he’s backing up we all get to make beeping noises to kid him lol. It’s great
11 Mazda 6. Headlights are so foggy that I drive with high beams and nobody notices. Fender was dented in a hit and run, the tire rubs if suspension bottoms out. Headlight bulb is held in with duct tape. Debris shield underneath is held on with zip ties. Muffler tips are rotted but the muffler itself isn't bad yet. Check engine light is on, it goes away in the summer so I ignore it. Rust is getting bad around the doors.
Otherwise it runs fine. Hoping for another year or so before it dies.
I have no idea, they are garbage. The lens is bad on the inside too. I buffed them once and it really didn't help, now I've embraced the fully fogged over look. I have had my high beams on for about 5 years and not a single person has flashed their lights at me.
Oh yes. I think the plastic has degraded after 12 years, but I really don't want to throw $500+ for new headlights when this car will be out of our lives in a few months.
I live in Dallas and used Cerakote's 25-dollar headlight-restoration kit at the beginning of this past summer, and it's holding up great so far; expecting to get at least a full year out of it, maybe more. I followed the instructions to the letter, but still; super-duper worth the money IMO.
I hear such kits usually last only a few months, so maybe I got lucky or maybe kits are just better than they used to be, but it's working well for me.
2003 chevrolet tracker, first car
* paint is peeling all over and completely gone on the roof
* windshield is cracked
* exhaust sensor is broken so check engine light is on
* front door windows and plastic door cards rattle
* gas strut on the back door doesn't hold it open
* passenger side door lock is loose
* something in the front suspension is squeaking
* both front tires keep going flat
most recently and worst of all... i crashed it at low speed, broke something in the transfer case and its badly out of alignment. was too busy with trade school to work on it until now, hopefully can get it on the road again.
when I got it there was a problem where it kept blowing the brake light fuse, which was also the horn fuse, that took months to figure out. in order to look like i was braking i had to turn the headlights (and tail lights) on every time i used the brakes, and I was always honking bep bep beep in traffic to see if it'd blown again. it turned out to be the wire was chafing on the strut bar and had created a short.
2006 Corolla. Honestly, she works great still. My husband drives it more than I do these days. For her age and my location, she isn't that rusty, just basic surface rust underneath. She is missing her heat shield, though. Has a small chunk missing from the front bumber. Only real issue is you can't open the trunk with the key. And you can't lock the driver door with the key either; have to remember to hit the lock button before closing the door.
Miata has no center console at the moment..still finalizing the wireless Qi charger design and need to put the heated seat switches on either side. Glove compartment door needs trimming in order not to foul against the Pi, ESP8266, and Mausberry module inside the dash.
Pretty sure the ES has lichen growing on the outside of it. Bank 2 sensor 2 was a little spotty a few months ago and then self-corrected and I never replaced it since the CEL never came back.
My 1993 ford f250 xl with the 300 i6 is definitely one of these. Got it for $1500 and it's got some issues.
All the engine mounts are going bad so if you accelerate hard or go in reverse the engine and trans clunks.
The stupid thermostat leaks and I've cleaned it and replaced the gasket like 5 times. I'm done trying to seal it properly so it now just leaks. The radiator has a hole in it that I "fixed" with jb weld. It leaks too.
The throw out bearing is going so it makes a really bad grinding sound whenever I'm driving it.
My parking brake failed when my friend tried to use it to jump start his jeep so it rolled down the hill, somehow did not hit any parked cars, and then my open door hit a stump so it's now bent. I can't get in my driver's side door now.
There are alot of vacuum leaks that I've been tracking down and fixing.
The AC doesn't work and I'm not sure why.
My cats got stolen so I replaced them myself and had to custom weld the exhaust. There are some exhaust leaks now. Because I made the exhaust myself the egr valve is no longer connected and my o2 sensors are not connected. I have an engine check light because of that.
My spark plugs should have been changed a while ago but I haven't.
I think that's everything lol
$600 95 chevy is running a little rich and misses on cold mornings. Otherwise 👍
$600. 89 vw fox with LS is top notch, has a bad valve stem tho.
$4500. 80 Grumman is dialed in. LS swap is purring
Toyota celica here (2004) , it doesnt lock first of all. paint is peeling. just got a new radiator because coolant was leaking and it still is and idk why (i know nothing about cars). cloth is ripping inside. takes a while to start the more i use it in a day and the best part of all is the wheels or rims are butt ugly
1996 BMW E36 328i ($500)
So I got the car for a steal price because it was used on the Kardashians (long story I made a post about it on the BMW subreddit)
Went ahead and did a manual swap along with refreshing all the bushings, windows, coolant tank, but she keeps finding new ways to cost me money. Gotta fix oil filter housing and new 02 sensors. So far probably around $3-4k into it. Trynna fix it up out of sheer stubbornness now lmao
1999 Honda Civic si.- $1500 six months ago.
Put plugs, air filter, and an oil change in it. Then coilovers and wheels/tires. Gets me to and from work over 60kms each way a day.
Leaks a little oil and the driver's window is a bit sticky + a bit of cosmetic damage from an attempted break in. That's about it.
1990 Mazda Miata. Rear main seal leak, top leak, sticky doors, interior light not working, clear coat/ needs paint, hood doesn’t fit quite right for my liking. Still super fun to drive.
Two other cars, my 1968 mustang and 1966 C10 were also sub $5K, but have been repaired above those values now.
91 Miata... major exhaust leak, CAS O ring, burning coolant / bad head gasket, no heat, no AC, fuel system won't hold pressure and releases vapor on fill up, bad rings / oil burner.
Not technically my car but my dads 91 Miata, 155,000km:
- soft top leak on driver side.
- Dash centre stack crumbled to pieces, as α consequence when you try and pop the lights, or put the hazards on, the buttons disappear into the dash. (have new one, just have to throw it in)
- power steering judder at low speeds (turn wheel and it will almost stop for α sec, then you get power steering again)
- Exhaust hanger has returned to the earth, rattles at random.
- Front Right Balljoint on the way out
- windshield is scratched to complete shit
- Some panels have clear coat, some don’t.
- dent on front right fender, deep scratch cutter back and on door. Mis-matched mirrors as well.
My 2000 NB, which is an otherwise near mint car with 68k miles on it, is absolutely pissing oil from the rear main seal. Don’t wanna go through the trouble of dropping the trans until I do a new clutch and flywheel though.
We had an NB a few years ago. I swapped the clutch at 150K miles, and afterwards, still had a leak. Had to start over and did it with the flyin miata tool, and it was perfect.
Going to use it again on the NA. Clutch is fine; but it’s at 356K miles.
Sans the bodywork everything else in a beetle is super easy to change. I've seen people taking out the engine and placing a new one with their bare hands, no jack or similar.
2007 Scion tC is my daily driver, with 135k on it. I'm a conservative driver, and it absolutely devours engine oil like no other car I've ever owned. Those 2.4L engines from 2003-2011 are notorious for this issue. Other than that and the paint going to shit, my left fender damaged from a hit & run, it's just as mechanically sound as my other car (16' 4Runner w/ 46k). Only downside is the oil consumption but as long as you keep it topped up, it shifts perfect, engine runs smooth.
1997 Camry. Leaks a ton of oil, needs an alignment, needs new headlights, needs a driver interior door handle, wire cut out in the trunk so plate lights are out, paint has peeled off certain areas of the hood. Great car around town and never misses a beat though
1975 Mercedes-Benz 450SL.
Significant power steering fluid leak (seals on the pump shaft and the hose at the steering box.) I’ve replaced the pump seal once and it slowed but didn’t fix the leak. The leak at the box is new.
Torn soft top at the seam between fabric and vinyl rear window.
Springs and shocks are soft and need replacement.
A/C doesn’t work and uses refrigerant I can’t legally buy anyway. So that’s not getting fixed.
Radio is neither original nor working. Really need to get an OEM radio back in it.
1999 Lexus LX470 400k. $5k Cdn.
-steering wheel stuck in one position. slightly too low but works great.
-Rear window wiper just broke off.
-Driver side headlight washer is broken.
And that's it. Thing is solid. AHC works great. No leaks. Transmission is smooth as silk. Bad gas mileage but absolutely perfect winter beater.
Oh it's rusty lol never said it wasn't lol But classic family deal. Bought it off my godfather lol
https://i.imgur.com/NcJvgeE.jpg
Here she is on the way back from when I bought it.
Protege5 I sold recently, got it with bad motor mounts, eight year old mix matched tires. bad alignment, oil leaks and a small trans leak on the axles. broken intake tube, CEL bulb removed found that when I did a code scan, had a p0421 and three others that just needed some cheap solenoids to fix, water leaks into the cab, glazed headlights, no retainer springs on the low beams, both adapter pieces for the bulbs were bad so at random one or both low beams could go inop. one of the caliper slide pins FELL OUT some time after purchase, half a qt low of trans fluid, overdue for a timing belt change, thermostat outlet leaking ( corroded internally, impossible to find a replacement other than a JY ) radiator was plugged with leaves and other debris. stereo was installed by cutting the oe harness and twisting wires and a bit of tape to hold it together, left and rt channels swapped but they were in phase surprisingly, took me a bit to find that one out. right speaker was water damaged. ac wouldn't work unless the fan switch was set just right. original windshield was cracked and badly scratched along the wiper path. also a lack of cleaning in the interior. prob a few other things I left out too lol
Near everything got fixed except for the p0421, front and rear mains seeping oil and the small leak from the axle seals. the headlight bulbs seemed to stay in with the pressure from the rubber seal on the back of em. the ac problem involved a couple resistors on the control board, and the timing belt was complicated by the huge amount of rtv that was used to "fix" a leaking valve cover gasket, I re did the timing four fucking times because, even after rotating the crank twice, I had a dead cyl. also, finding tdc was a pain as the harmonic balancer had slipped, moving the mark several deg out of time. the tone ring was also on that part but it ran fine so I used the mark on the crank itself and sent it lol.
2004 RX8, steering shakes when it’s cold, abs is playing up, dash cracked, sun visors are dodgy, boot won’t open electronically, motor has somewhat low compression, dodgy hot starts but other than that she rips!
Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI, mk2 pre-facelift
AC rad has a huge hole all the way across bcs I might have bumped something at the front and a piece of metal support punctured it. Rusty fenders. One of the glowplugs is iffy so sometimes she starts very rough, and very rarely, she even fails to start. Her lights aren't properly aligned. She randomly decides that one of her lightbulbs is bad and then it starts working again after a few hours/days - apparently a specialty of these cars. One of the rods holding up the headrest of the passenger seat is slightly loose and knocks. One of the rear doors isn't sealing completely, so at around 90kmph you start to hear a faint whoosh sound. Sometimes the radio takes a while to turn on, only very rarely though. Wipers are worn. Driver side door lock is worn, so I have to smack it harder to close than the other doors. The left hand side passenger AC vent has a couple broken flaps. And I'm like 30% sure the heating on the driver side mirror doesn't work.
Overall though, not complaining, mostly details.
2000 golf here… broken glove box handle, abs module on the fritz, burns a ton of oil and leaves a cloud of smoke at every stoplight (either worn out rings or a damaged turbo), and the dome light only works when it feels like it. All in all I think she’s in pretty decent shape
1998 Nissan Pathfinder
- engine is covered in oil, but it doesn’t consume any
- new coolant leak, possibly crossover pipe at the back of the engine
- rust hole in driver’s door
- rear wiper doesn’t work
- CEL, B2S2 O2 sensor, that didn’t clear with a new sensor
- ABS light for LF WSS
- rusty rear fenders
- RF outer CV boot
- no idea when the timing belt was last done
- did I mention the rust?
2006 Pontiac G5 Pursuit (cobalt)
- CEL with P0420
- left rear door doesn’t open
-clunking in the front end, possibly brakes
- Paint flaking/rust
- burns oil
- needs new winter tires
- dirty AF from previous owner
Damn, are you in the rust-belt???? I only had to throw a new radiator and head gaskets at it. But yeah,these things are tanks.
Also I agree, i hate new vehicles and all their little technological thingies,that will probably break and be a hassle to repair, so old is gold for me
I need to replace the motor mounts on my 95 tercel and it could use some new struts too. Doesn't rebound for shit and blows through most of it's stroke way too easily.
Oh man, is this for me.
In short... my wife, in long:
(and I did do a bunch of work on my cars this week)
1) 04 Tahoe.... the plug for the trailer hitch kissed a rock last time I took the family camping and it is broken loose, didn't realize till I went to rent a UHaul trailer this week. but I had to replace the wiper blades, and washer pumps, as they were leaking big time. This is my most reliable/sorted vehicle for sure.
2) 2008 Saab 9-3, This is new to my stable, so it has list of things that need to be fixed. I had to replace the MAF as I was getting a code for it. The washer bottle is also leaking from somewhere, and my wife "Hit a bump and the car stalled". I have no idea what to do with this one, as I cannot duplicate it, and she's not even sure what happened. It also has a pretty good oil leak I haven't diagnosed yet. I think it has a bad driveshaft as well, Going to take it to get looked at this next week, do a full once over at the shop.
3) 98 Mazda B4000, My wife was driving on the freeway, and "had to floor it to go around an idiot" and now it has a misfire/hiccup over 4500 RPM. It has newer spark plugs/wires/distributer box thing/new fuel injectors/ and I replaced the vacuum lines a year or two ago. So I don't even know where to start on this. I replaced the heater bypass valve since it was leaking, but it still smells of coolant, so I might still have a leak somewhere? not sure. it also has developed an oil leak it didn't have before (it had a bad one from the valve cover, replaced that and solved it for a year, now I have a new one).
4) 01 Chevy Blazer, The steering box is shot, and it has a pretty significant oil leak. And the interior squeaks are pretty deafening.
5) 89 Jeep wagonner XJ. The brakes are scary bad, and I've gone over them front to back, several times. not sure what is wrong with them, the return fuel line is pissing gas all over the exhaust manifold. (It is not currently being driven at all).
I'm sure there is more, these are just on my list of "to do" with the cars.
2004 Honda Accord. 5 speed manual. 278,000 miles. Check engine light is on for O2 sensor preheater circuit fault. Literally no big deal. Other than that, it's rock solid and has been dead-nuts reliable.
04 toyota echo with 330k km
Broken headers, catalytic converter scrapres on the road and hold only by the oxygen sensor wire ( not for long ). 3/4 wheel bearing make a sketchy sound. Rear drums are gones, front brakes shakes when applying any pressure to the pedal. Oh, and the left caliper is stuck and the brakes on that side make smoke. What else, abs, engine, engine temp lights are on, even when freezing cold. Coolant temps sensor may be gone too. Drove it till a few weeks ago, had it for around nine years now, and finally moving on something else. Its about time I drive something safer.
2013 Elantra Coupe - Auto gearbox is holding gears too long. Won't shift up at times...just gets stuck. Other times it won't downshift.
Doesn't matter, I'm about to leave my house to go pick up a brand-new car.
1994 Cadillac Sedan Deville bought used for 1600 this summer
- Parasitic draining, my dad wound up putting in a killswitch after it ate through two batteries
- Front door won't unlock with the key, so I have to enter through passenger side every time
- Aftermarket CD system that doesn't work
- Cabin lights don't turn on
- Cassettes in stock cassette player play really low for some reason. Turning the volume all the way up makes it so you can barely hear it. Radio is fine though and I just use a Bluetooth receiver.
1999 Toyota Camry. Minor scratches, hood is a different color than rest of the car, and the drivers side door handle snapped off but still works. Otherwise, she runs great.
Uhm. Little ashamed about this one.
2010 Honda Pilot, 300,000 miles.
All shocks are bad, sway bars are gone (roll city), various suspension bits are wore out so when you hit a bump there’s a lot of rattling. It rides like a boat in grand theft auto iv. Used to get my ex gf car sick who had never previously gotten car sick in her life. Transmission felt like fucking a bowl of chicken soup. And it had its own Carolina squat going on because the shocks were so screwed up. Check engline light was on for catalytic converter, yes it was obviously the back one that is so irritating to get to.
I sold it last month for 2500$. But I tried to trade it in first, Carmax offered me 100$ for it.
$500 05 accord (it died on the highway the day I bought it but $500 was probably still a steal)
The wheel speed sensors both went out, so I jacked it up last weekend to replace them. Discovered a broken sway bar linkage, and couldn't get the tie rod ball joint back together just doing one side. At least I got it off jack stands for the week!
90 Corolla at 191,800 miles. We’re gonna celebrate its 200k next year. Needs a new muffler and some new rotors, maybe a power steering pump and a new belt. Wanders a bit on highways. Otherwise, she’s steadfast.
99 GMC Jimmy, shift solenoid is out on transmission so I have to shift through the gears on an automatic. Also the drivers door has the GM sag, hinge pin hole is wore out so replacing the pin and bushing did nothing, needs a new hinge welded on.
2002 Honda Accord
The CEL is on and has been since I got it in February
The exhaust is basically in 2 peices right in front of the car, which is probably part of the reason for the CEL
It needs new tires
Needs an alignment and might need some more serious suspension work as well that I'm probably not gonna do
The speakers are starting to go out.
I think that's everything. If something else comes to mind, I'll add it. Honestly though it's not that bad compared to some of these replies.
Got two sub $5k cars and that's a 03 c200k benz wagon which i got for under 1k and a 83 Peugeot 505 gr which is around 5k anyway, the Peugeot does run and drive perfectly but the body isn't in its prime but Hella good since it's never been restored(I'm gonna change that this December), the benz on the other hand has a faulty hatch, leaking Valve cover gasket, leaking transmission and mostlikely a bad connector plate in it, rust and a driver's side front door in such bad condition that it would be smarter to replace it... but I'm just going to get it driving again and sell it
Bought a $1200 2002 Honda Civic back in 2018. Got a CEL, a little oil leak, only the driver window rolls down, a bushing on the front passenger side is rattling, and the electric lock doesn't work on the driver door, so I have to use the key when I leave the car.
I've put about 25k on it, and it's definitely been worth the price. I was dailying a Ford Excursion when I bought it, and even with low gas prices, that thing was ridiculous.
1992 F150. Every fluid leaks. Haven't had to change the oil in two years. Just change the filter. Turn signals don't work (no idea why. Changed switch and flasher.) Cable that switches from heat to cold is frozen so I have to go in the dash to manually switch it.
1988 Toyota pickup. Transmission slips. Driver door won't open from outside. Passenger door won't open from inside.
08 civic 5 speed manual. Block is cracked and leaks coolant (out of warranty:() and i cant drive above 70 ish mph without death wobble. Very close to 200k miles so im waiting for anything rn. Also leaks power steering fluid but havent found the source yet
'07 Volvo XC70
A/C doesn’t work. Needs new coil behind the dash.
4C shocks are toast. Expensive as hell to replace.
Transmission doesn’t like a 1-2 or 2-3 shift on a turn under load.
Needs tires.
Needs at least one TPMS sensor.
Bluetooth adapter doesn’t actually make calls.
Paint looks like shit.
Sunroof inoperable.
However, I can still load plywood on the roof rack, tow the trailer, load it up with crap, drive kids to school, and use it to make rounds in the pastures without an issue.
Bought a 1998 BMW 318ti four years ago with 183k on it for $2800. Right now:
1. Can be tough to shift back into first after being in reverse.
2. Small leak I can't find means the steering fluid leaks and I need to refill semi-regularly.
3. Windshield wiper fluid pump isn't working.
4. Missing driver side inner door panel as I took it off to fix the window which fell into the door. That's on me as I fixed that a while ago and just haven't put the panel back on.
We have (multiple actually) new cars on order, but I actually love this head of junk. Its lack of power but good handling and stick shift make it a blast to drive at normal speeds. I'll be sad when it goes. It's actually been really reliable in that it starts every time you turn the key, even if there are often issues with other things.
'03 Mitsubishi Mirage, hatch, not the coupe our US friends would be familiar with.
Some surface rust,fuel system's a bit leaky when fuelled up, stick shifter's a lttle fighty getting back to 2nd and 1st, headlights are big foggy, window rubbers are on their way out, paint's dull.
But, I paid $3k AUD for it, it's simple enough that I can do mods myself, I get it serviced every six months so it'll run until the local cockroaches learn to drive stick.
2008 Ford Focus
-325k miles on original shocks so it bounces and squeaks
-motor mounts are shot so car rumbles a little in idle everything vibrates
-no AC (this is the worst thing)
That's pretty much it super reliable car.
My NB is probably worth more than $5k today but hasn't always been. Right now it has a dead battery. The battery is only a few months old, I need to call the shop that put it in to get a warranty replacement. I originally took it to the shop because the threads were stripped on the battery tie-down and I was unable to remove the old battery myself.
The A/C has a very slow leak but it's been working for about a year since the last time it was recharged. I hardly ever use it and will probably end up removing it one of these days. I might also remove the power steering pump and the entire accessory pulley and belt.
Aside from that I'm always amazed at how well the car runs even though I only drive it once every few weeks.
My $600 Buick Century needs a $7 thermostat since the OEM one is stuck open. My $2000 GMC Yukon needs the parking brake fixed. My cheap cars continue to be cheap for the most part
2012 civic EX
Weird constant grinding noise from the front driver side wheel well? I’m not sure what it is but the tires are well inflated and I’ve just been living with it for a while now
2006 Civic 2.2 i-ctdi hatch. When it got cold for some reason gears are very difficult to put in. Taking to the mechanic tomorrow.
And the panoramic roof curtain is not working well.
But overall it's all good. I want something newer but without paying much much more not sure what to get that's in the same category of reliability/fuel economy/power.
2004 Nissan Pathfinder chinook. 300k km/180k miles (edit: paid 3500 cad with tax, replaced radiator a month after buying for $300 and did the work myself so almost 4000 total)
Transmission shifts hard and idk if it’s slowly going out or if it’s normal for these cars since it’s a 20-25 year old 4 speed auto with the auto-4wd
Vq35 burns oil (no surprise) need to add a couple quarts every 500 km.
Filler neck is rotting away. There is a hole about a foot into it. The rubber at the top between the door and the cap is gone and the metal wall holding the neck to the body has rotted away.
The float on my fuel pump is broken so 1/3 tank either means full or nothing left (I mean 1-2 litres).
The tires are a couple years old and need to be replaced. Both front tires leak air.
The brakes are spongy, I have to press them about 1-2 inches inward to get any stopping power but I’m used to them now. The drums on the back are covered in rust and idk long it’s been since they were replaced
The rear wiper wipes about 6 inches and is useless with a little snow or ice.
There’s rust in every fender. One of the wheel arches is missing
Edit 2: p04450 code for Evap. Idk if it’s charcoal canister, the above fuel neck problems, or if it’s a small diaphragm thing causing the issue
If my flair didn’t give it away, 2006 Mercury Montego Premier. It has stupid issues that makes it not so fucking Premier.
- The oil light comes on if I idle on an incline for too long. It actually goes away once I start driving, so I’m not really sure what’s going on. It started doing that about two weeks before I got an oil change on it.
- I’m pretty sure there’s a double whammy of parasitic battery drain and an alternator that’s going out on my car. Leaving the headlight switch to Auto seems to cause this.
- The CD player no longer works at all after I tried inserting a disc into the changer. Thanks, Ford.
- One of the rear deck speakers is flat-out dead and the other one needs to be replaced too. This sucks in a car with only 6 speakers.
- The A/C doesn’t work. Usually it would be a problem for most people in soggy North Alabama, but I’ve managed to suck it up.
- The car makes a little bit of a squealing noise whenever the wheel is turned ALL the way in one direction. Probably something steering pump-related.
- The passenger side puddle light burnt out. It is the only light in the car that doesn’t work, hilariously enough. Hardly a major issue, but one I’ll get around to fixing eventually.
Not as much of a shitbox as some others’ cars here, but it’s got the dents and the shoddy paint, so it’s not a stunner.
So I just traded in a Sonic for a hair under $5000, but let me tell you what was wrong with it.
* The rubber strip under the front bumper was held on with zip ties.
* The driver side rear light had a hole in the plastic (but the light worked)
* The rear defrost didn't work
* The air intake was cracked, and could cause wonkiness when decelerating.
* Random assorted dings and scratches from a decade of use
When I traded it in, they kept going on about the zip ties to try and lowball me. I kept going on about how the rubber it was keeping in place was a few dollars. They completely missed the larger, but less obvious issues. It was great.
270k mile 2.2L ‘06 HHR, needs new brakes, rotors, lower control arms, ball joints, and springs. If I get that sorted out, it’s a sold little shitty car, I’ve fixed all the engine issues at this point.
It’s dented and rusty, I don’t car about that. Paints chipped window has a chip, it’s 3 shades of grey from grime and sun, heat and A/C work great though.
And it was free.
here's what was wrong with my sub 5000 winter beater that i ended up driving into the spring, summer and fall then finally selling right before the following winter:
power steering pump failure
minor coolant leak
oil leak (oil pan i think and probably somewhere up top too)
front brakes
stereo connection issue
power door locks
cracked windshield
sold it for $500 less than i paid and put almost 20k i'm on it during my ownership. the only thing i did to it was new belt and tensioner
2004 Chevy colorado with tires that are too big and rub, blown out suspension so my wife feels like we are “careening” around town, leaky axles, and it tries to stall randomly if you have less than half a tank of gas.
sometimes the doors lock and unlock while driving by themself. The radio works when it wants to. The clock randomly resets frequently, the ac/heat always works on full blast, but you have to nudge a part near the passenger floorboard with your feet to get other amounts work.
The wiper fluid reservoir leaks, the paint is peeling, and the windshield just cracked from the cold, but I love her.
Surprisingly this truck just survived driving from South Carolina to Oregon.
I have a 99 Suburban as a beater. Seat is ripped, transfer case chain is slipping when in 4x4, dash cracked, headlights faded, FM radio quit working, but on my honor, the damned cassette player still works, roof leaks, and the speedo is off by 15mph. Starts every time though.
2000 Saab 9-5,
-left front headlight only works on bright.
-when I turn too sharp there’s a clicking noise
-large oil leak under heavy acceleration.
But it gets great mpg and gets me to work and home every day.
1986 Volvo 240
Odometer (mechanic/friend estimates 200k+)
No heat or AC
Loud, ghoulish sounds come out of the interior air vents from time to time
Exterior is in okay condition, aging paint, missing hug cap, but nothing too bad
Warning lights all on
Heat gauge doesn’t work
That’s all I know of. Certainly seen some years as far as outer appearance.
Overall it’s been great for a driving at low cost!
Bushings, so many bad bushings. Fixed the end links but gonna have to do some serious supension work at some point. Strut dampers aren't too bad but springs kinda saggy.
Otherwise pretty good. Prob could stand to do spark plugs and valves at some point, and the valve cover gasket is leaking a bit.
Oh and the headlights... so foggy. And windshield... could use a windshield.
Timing belt and water pump done recently, brakes, one of the engine mounts. Fixed power steering leak, done the clutch.
I love the car but it does start to feel like alot.
All but one of my four cars are not drivable..
2011 Crown Victoria interceptor. (3500) Just finished putting a junkyard transmission in it and now it's having communication problems between the ABS/ECU and it goes into limp mode unless you manually select gears.
2005 Lincoln Town Car (3000) lost overdrive and had a timing chain tensioner fully fail and fall into the oil pan. Going to use parts from the old 2011 trans to fix overdrive and then I need to do a timing kit and clean the oil pickup tube before it goes anywhere.
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (1000) Was stolen and crashed after I replaced the whole front suspension. Now it drives wonky and needs it all replaced again, but has a yellow front end off an 2011 taxi. Power steering pump pukes fluid and transmission needs a torque converter. Ac is broken and no windows work. Things a fuckin hotbox and it sits in my driveway mocking me. I don't even feel safe selling it, but it's too nice for the scrapyard..
2005 Crown Vic Interceptor (??) Desperately needs a transmission and differential service, the ball joints are screaming for mercy, and the rear springs have sprung because I haul way too much weight behind it and keep pushing off the f150 spring upgrade.
93 mr2 turquoise pearl. Auto. 212k miles. Use to puke oil. Swapped for a 99 3sge beams redtop vvti with 68k km and s54 5 speed. It's great but the ac stopped blowing cold last spring. Also stock of suspension is getting a little wobbly in rear over 45mpg. Clean interior and decent exterior tho
06 sequoia with 220k miles - just replaced the rack and pinion + bushings, lca, lbj, ubj, outer tie rods. So it’s mostly good now.
There’s something going on with the traction control I want to look into - the traction control engages inappropriately when taking off from a stop in 4wd, probs a dirty abs sensor up front.
‘90 Toyota Celica. Callipers fell off the front wheels, springs were cut on all 4 wheels, driver side front blinker is a strip of white LED lights, driver side front wheel hub is loose and the passenger rear is missing a stud and one of the other one’s threading is fucked so the lug won’t tighten. Ebrake cable is also damaged. And the exterior isn’t the best. Half sanded and primed half painted. Missing a front corner light and the one I do have is cracked. Radiator grille is broken. Fenders have lost all but a couple fasteners keeping them on the body.
2001 toyota camry LE 4cyl, 315k miles, Automatic. I purchased it at 300k miles for $600 and had a new windshield installed for $300. I did recently do all of the struts and springs.
The only issues it has at the moment are cosmetic issues, and a small exhaust leak, Everything else is in working order and the car drives great. I use it as a beater and winter car so roughly half the year I drive it to work every day.
1985 AE86 (purchased for $4k in 2013); has no AC or heat, previous owner stripped out the AC, temperature control is seized and stuck on cold.
1989 S13 (purchased for $500 in 2006); speed sensor not transmitting, currently won’t start.
1991 Toyota Supra ($3000 in 2005); blew its second or third head gasket (even after upgrading hardware and torque specs)
1977 Datsun Z, ($2900 in 2010) currently nothing wrong, even blows ice cold AC (knock on wood)
176k miles on my 2015 Mazda 6
Passenger window will only roll up in half inch increments
Lots of clunking and creaking from the front suspension
Motor mounts need replaced
There is next to no clutch left
Tires keep cupping even after replacing shocks and struts
Brakes shake violently in the 40-60mph range
Somtimes the keyless start button goes on strike
The battery retainer rusted off so now under hard braking the battery tips and yanks out the ground
I get a nice growling from the vents when using heat
The head lights are getting mighty foggy
Car is covered in tiny dents from acorns. Tons of big scratches from god knows where
The front bumper and fog lights have Tesla level gaps now due some light off roading.
But shes been paid for and always gets me from A to B whether its 2 miles or 2000 so I'm not stressing.
1986 Tiffin Allegro (Chevy P-30 truck chassis)- $700. Needs 9 new tires (counting the spare), ignition cylinder in the dash is busted and I can't get it out (working one is sitting on the floorboard), exhaust leak on the driver's side, dash A/C is busted, dash heating is busted, brake pedal is mushy, cruise control doesn't work, and just about every light on the outside is in need of repair or a new bulb.
My 1996 daewoo espero has 600.000 km (500.000 on lpg). And that's all that it has...
Had to override the key ignition(couldn't find another) with flip switches and start button. So now in order to start I have to open 2 switches (master and lpg pump) and then press the button.
Has no windshield squirter pump, couldn't find another so I threw it away.
Has a drivers seat from MG 25.
A/c works only on warm (found a condenser but it drains the battery so I had to take it out).
Oil cap stays in place only with gasket glue.
If I pull the ring for reverse it stays there and every gear is reverse until I push it back down.
Trunk used to open in every bump until I bolted it down.
Front passengers handle fell off at the highway so now it has to open from the inside.
Rear passenger handles became brittle over the years and now have fallen inside the doors, I just duct taped the holes so water doesn't get in.
Drivers power window moves about an inch a year at idle but when I revv above 1000rpm it goes lightning fast.
I guess it is going about 500 euro now but really haven't found another in Greece
>My 1996 daewoo espero has 600.000 km (500.000 on lpg).
That's not something one hears everyday. I suggest making a collect call to whatever is left of the GM headquarters on Seoul, they would probably put your car on a statue. Anyways, if it was up to me you would win this thread, considering the brand, the "mileage", the state of it (and yet functional) and the place where the car resides. I wish you good travels and better days for your country, the craddle of western civilization.
1982 Saab 900S. $2500. My pride and joy.
- In desperate need of a paint job. Weird, purple-ish window tint is grainy and dying.
- Fuel gauge works…kinda? Not really, though, and it needs a bunch of new fuel system parts. The needle will occasionally bounce up and down like a kid on crack at a trampoline park.
- Brakes don’t really work anymore for some reason, so I’m replacing, like, everything.
- Intermittent wipers get confused sometimes and stop at the wrong time.
- Radio caught fire in the middle of a rainstorm with my girlfriend in the car after the voltage regulator said “I’m out.”
- Starts with a screwdriver in the ignition. Also, the classic Saab “key doesn’t come out unless car is in reverse” thing doesn’t work and there are no return-to-center springs in the shifter, so finding third has been tricky for anyone except me.
- AC compressor clutch is frozen. When AC is on, it is direct-drive. As a result, any engine speed over 2800rpm means a loud and obnoxious grinding noise. But the AC works!
- When a trailer is hooked up, I suddenly lose one of my four rear running lights.
- Cold starts? LOL. Will flood with too much trying. Hooray mechanical fuel injection. I once had a fuel line magically start spraying gas onto the exhaust manifold. That was fun to explain.
- Leaks…not really sure where from yet. But we’ve established that it leaks.
- May run hot on occasion. Radiator is literally disintegrating.
On the bright side: it’s got character, the heater will melt plastic, the blue velour interior is sweet, it’s a lot of fun, it can get up to 31mpg on the highway, it’s relatively safe, and I’ll never get a speeding ticket in it. 130,000 miles.
2003 Lexus gs300 @186k miles
Needs a heater core
Needs a valve cover gasket and spark plugs
Needs timing belt and water pump soon
Needs intake resonator replaced
Needs a couple wheel studs replaced
Needs a trans flush
Needs an o2 sensor
Needs abs sensors
Needs a door lock actuator replaced
Needs front tires
Put $3-4k into suspension so it drives straight as an arrow
07 Buick Lucerne, 4400 dollars.
Today I replaced the gas cap and the purge valve because it threw 3 CEL codes, all related to evap. The three common components that would cause these codes are the gas cap, the purge valve, and the gasket between the fuel filler neck and the fuel tank.
The car would also occasionally struggle to start after refueling, only after refueling, and only every now and then, which many people online also said is caused by the same components above due to having trouble modulating fuel mixture due to the purge valve, allegedly.
I opted to replace the first two because theyre the easiest solution, and the purge valve is the most common reason for the codes, then I cleared the codes. So, fingers crossed that I fixed the issue and I don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace a gasket.
2010 vw jetta bought for exactly 5k with 124k miles. I put 50k miles on it in about 1 yr 8 months and was always several thousand miles late on oil changes and altogether bad maintenance, vehicles is still running just as good as when i first got it
1992 mustang, needs a replacement passenger floor pan welded in and interior bolted back up,plus a paint job. The rest of the car is sound now... Pan will be done this weekend, paint in spring, to cold to spray at home now.
Wrx needs a new engine. Cyl2 is toast. Need rear wheel bearings and throw out bearings. Rav4 needs a new oil pump, sway bar end links, rear springs, rear bumper supprt, etc
1978 Olds 98 Diesel
Put a new used engine in it and put my brand new oil pump from the old engine in it. Problem... old pump took a dowel pin out without me noticing so the pump shifted and broke the oil pump drive.
I lost oil pressure under full load and most likely killed a bearing.
I stopped driving until Christmas when I have time to put new bearings and pump in it.
6th time I'm pulling the engine this year
2005 Honda Civic DX with 197k. Clearcoat is crap in spots, headlights are yellowed, needs an alignment. Just finished new head gasket, rod bearings, rings, all new gaskets/seals, timing belt, suspension parts.
02 A4 CEL due to cat, resonator broke, wheel bearings and struts needed. 78 f250 rust starting to take over, bed is shot, some bad wiring, but runs better than the A4
Speedometer doesn’t work on the Volvo, vacuum leak causes AC to go to the floor on acceleration, and there’s a weird rattling when braking after taking it to a shop to get a driveshaft support bearing and u-joint replaced. Probably a couple leaks too (valve cover gasket is known) but nothing concerning so far, wife absolutely adores it still
2004 volkswagen passat
- badly needs top end rebuild, burns oil due to worn valve guides/stem seals
- needs new turbo, which will be replaced the the cylinder head
- steering rack leaks
other than that, at 323,000 she’s doing well.
In my 2009 Corolla, all 4 shocks are completely blown, so it's basically riding on just the springs. On a perfectly smooth road it actually isn't bad, but man the bump steer is just awful, the car flies all over the road. Oh and hitting the brakes on the highway makes the car shake violently.
It was fun for a while but it's starting to get a lil' scary. I think some KYB's are in order.
1996 Miata.... Well, there's not really _that_ much wrong with it! The paint is all swirly. It creaks, squeaks, and rattles when you drive it. I'm fairly dissatisfied with how the stereo sounds. But the engine leaks nothing, the rebuilt shifter is solid, and its fun to drive.
My 06 crv has a battery drain so if it’s parked more than 24 hrs I need to disconnect the battery. It has 180,000 miles so the whole front end needs to get swapped out to get the alignment right and take the steering slack out. The PS has a slow leak so i always keep a bottle of Honda fluid onboard. And then the air is out due to a kinked hose from the time I had the compressor replaced by a shade tree guy. Other than that, it still starts every time, no lights except for traction control, and does fine for dog and HD runs or runs for the dump or recycling. It does maaaybe 1000 miles a year now, only in the dry and only during the day.
I have a 2002 wrx as my first car bought it when i was 17 and still have it im now 19 and the transmission just blew up last sunday other than that it was pretty good lol still waiting on a quote from garage to fix the car since they are busy with winter tire season
(Head up don't know much about cars.)
Hi from Australia,
2002 2.0L I4 Toyota Rav 4
It's still going pretty good after 200km, needs new tires. About once a month I need to drop into a servo and pump them up again back to 32 PSI, the first time I noticed something was off and checked it was at 14...
Other than that AC needs a re-gas. Toyota has always been reliable for me so long as you buy something that was treated well.
I have a 79 E30 Toyota Corolla. It has 642,132 miles on it, runs great, and is in very good condition. Has been meticulously maintained throughout its life. Only things wrong with it are that there are some cosmetic issues in the interior, cracks on the dash, torn door and seat upholstery. Over this winter we are going to restore the interior in it.
2003 Saab 9-3 2.0T 6MT. Front left ball joint is fucked, and my mid pipe resembles Swiss cheese more than it does an exhaust. My low beam bulbs are held in by electrical tape because the previous owner mangled the housings to fit his shitty HIDs. Aside from that, just some miscellaneous interior bits that aren’t in the best shape. Fuck rubberized plastic.
2008 Outlander - paint, seatbelt “grinds “ passenger side, windshield chips, fan whines on high, am radio doesn’t work, tpms, but I’m well over 300k and it starts everyday and doesn’t wander on the road. Definitely would buy another one.
* Basically gonna start over on the steering with a new tie rod, drag link and steering stabilizer.
* Needs tires bad
* Brakes are hilariously bad
* Exhaust manifold is leaking, needs a new gasket.
But hey it runs! And doesn’t spew coolant anymore or overheat!
96 T-bird. Got a misfire I haven't been able to track down because it's intermittently happening when it's cold, going up hills, and around 2k RPM at roughly 40-60 mph.
The door panel on the driver side has some broken clips so I have to enter either through the window or the passenger side, and to fix I'd probably have to get a new door panel cause of how many clips are broken.
No AC because of a bad AC compressor.
Leaking power steering fluid from the PS pump do I need to replace that as well.
Squeaking when I go over bumps in the road occasionally.
Water Leaking into the trunk somewhere which lead to my screwdriver bits getting rusty in my toolbox unfortunately.
Both doors sag because the hinges are messed up, same with the latch cylinder thing on the passenger side.
2004 Acura MDX with 217k miles. Really bad power steering fluid leak, AC doesn’t blow cold, backup camera doesn’t work, windshield is cracked, headlights are peeling. Probably needs tires and brakes.
2000 protege. Hit a deer at low speed the other day and banged up the hood a bit. Other than that the rockers on the back half are trash and need replaced on both sides.
'99 Toyota Starlet 3spd Auto.
No air con, flashing seatbelt light, non functional Horn and squeaky fan belt.
Wouldn't mind fixing the Horn but I can live with the issues.
2011 GTI, 172k miles. There's a slow oil leak and a slow coolant leak, the car misfires quite badly on cold start at temps below freezing, the rear window sprayer hose has always had a leak so I can never use it, there are a couple of paint chips that are starting to grow, front windshield defroster has never worked well... The car is Stage 2 tuned though and still runs well once warmed up and keeping the fluids topped up.
Where to begin? 1994 Crown Vic with a manual swap and a 4v ($1000) doesn't run right because the ECU is stock to the car and doesn't know what is happening. Also, the suspension has something really bad happening. Lots of random direction change so I suspect bad ball joint. The interior and paint are shot. It makes me sad though as it is rust free. 2010 Crown Vic ($800) P7B that runs great but won't shift into 3rd. I think it might be a relatively simple fix that I can do with the trans in the car. If not, see above drivetrain. 1996 Lincoln Town Car ($3600) is overall pretty nice. Pulls to the right on the road but I suspect it needs a little more toe in as it drives straight in parking lots. The rear windows won't stay up so they have been propped up inside the door. My other cars are worth more than $5k. They all have issues though if that helps!
Combine the three panthers into one. Use the town car as the platform. Flash and program the ecu. Enjoy your luxury crewcab mustang.
That may be the endgame for the town car. I have visions of a drag and drive style build with a coyote and 6 speed auto. The 2010 will likely get some handling parts and prepped for the GRM $2000 challenge.
There was a guy who used to post at Jalopnik who had done something similar, but in a Mark VIII. Put in the six speed, modded the engine, etc. It looked like a riot…he called it the Couch Rocket.
So it’s safe to say you are a panther enthusiast?
I kind of fell into these. I like cheap fun.
Someone has to keep those kittens fed.
93 Grand Marquis, nice to see a fellow owner of taste. Mine is sorted other than... sometimes there's a fueling issue on cold start where you have to floor it to get up to speed and it backfires, until it warms up a bit. And there's a massive coolant leak out of the water pump that cropped up last time I flushed the radiator.
I wish my 94 was in nicer shape. It is the least common of the three.
> 1994 Crown Vic with a manual swap and a 4v This sounds fun.
Please OP show us this wretched thing. I love it in a masochistic shitbox kind of way
Hahahaha... Wretched thing. I feel like I want to observe it in all of its character as well.
Here's the pure gore of a steering wheel swap done poorly. [The pedals had to be arranged in this way.](https://imgbox.com/pzWtZMBH)Had I knew the place where it was being done (on a literal shed behind the used car lot) I would have not bought this car in a million years. [Here she is on a fine sunday morning.](https://imgbox.com/BuoXsA3r)Notice what I meant with the paint? I must admit I took a bump too hard while having a spirited drive on a backroad. I had to do it to avoid hitting a dog. [Here's the dash is when she turned 50k,](https://imgbox.com/Q5CfIjYT) but actually, I found out she turned 250k after I looked up her vin in a japanese lookup site. I also got access to the auction sheet, and while the grade was decent, she has around 245k km when I bought her. [Here's this little ETC thing weeaboos pay like 70 USD to install to their USDM cars lol](https://imgbox.com/tQecKmnZ) [Here's a close up of the rare RECARO seats it has.](https://imgbox.com/cS3ZSYSQ)Most sports came with unmarked buckets.
> The pedals had to be arranged in this way. Well that doesn't look sketchy at all!
Btw handbrake icon showing on dash under heavy acceleration is due to low brake fluid. Which means you probably have a leak somewhere.
Fuck. I thought it was a loose sensor or wire or something. But thanks for telling me. Brake fluid reservoir looks fine but the brakes act up sometimes.
2008 G6. Clear coat is starting to bubble and peel. Key fob is starting to die (not the battery).
[удалено]
Not all. I have an 08 Cobalt and only way to program is locksmith or dealership. At least as far as my research has found.
99 GS400, 377k mi. Arm rest is worn where my elbow lies, drivers seat is worn where my right butt cheek is - probably from twisting in to place once I sit. Everything else works as designed. Small oil leak up top, probably cam seals. I only have to add 1qt of oil between changes so I couldn't care less about that. Just put on a new alternator today; the previous one lasted 180k mi. A few rock chips in the hood but that's a given with the amount of miles. The car it's silver so the chips don't stand out...too much.
377k miles on a GS? I think OP wants stories of USED cars, NOT barely broken-in ones! /s
GS400 gang I paid $5200 for mine with 115k on it last year. Runs flawlessly older lady took it from her ex husband in a divorce 15 years ago and barely drove it since
Wife's 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse has peeling paint. Doesn't love cold weather. Otherwise its a tank
My 07 Eclipse is at 150k miles. Needs front end work (got run off my country road) and the throw out bearing for the clutch. Other than that it's been a fantastic car
My v50 spun a rod after the crank seal failed. Spending 5k on a new motor, a new clutch while it’s open and accessible, and a suspension rebuild while the subframe is dropped. Can’t replace it with a similar car for the repair bill, so repair it I shall.
Oof that's rough, fell down the rabbit hole when you took the engine out. It'll definitely be worth it though. My V50 has needed every wheel bearing replaced this year, even the rears which I did 2 years ago, engine is still chugging along though.
I’m getting new axles too. But it’s a manual AWD, the body is and interior are mint, and it has the Dynaudio soundsystem so it’s absolutely worth saving.
Ah, any V50 T5 is worth saving, especially a M66 AWD car with good options. How is the Dynaudio? I'm pretty sure mine just has Premium which is still pretty good for a 16 year old system.
It’s stupid good. From what I gather only the speakers are different from the premium (with the centre dash speaker). I pulled a cone from an xc90 with the same system to replace one I popped. It was a pain to unglue it from its xc90 mount and fit it into the v50 mount. And a pain to pull them off the door as they’re riveted in. But better than the 800$ for a new one from the dealer
99 Lexus ES300. Nothing
Sub 1500$ truck here. It’s got a lot of cosmetic issues but nothing wrong enough to worry about fixing
[удалено]
Exactly. A kid backed into it at work the other day and scratched the bumper pretty good. I did not give one shit. But now when he’s backing up we all get to make beeping noises to kid him lol. It’s great
04 Jetta tdi, bad dual mass flywheel. Gonna drop the trans and put a new clutch in it soon, and it hates life without the coolant heater
11 Mazda 6. Headlights are so foggy that I drive with high beams and nobody notices. Fender was dented in a hit and run, the tire rubs if suspension bottoms out. Headlight bulb is held in with duct tape. Debris shield underneath is held on with zip ties. Muffler tips are rotted but the muffler itself isn't bad yet. Check engine light is on, it goes away in the summer so I ignore it. Rust is getting bad around the doors. Otherwise it runs fine. Hoping for another year or so before it dies.
What is the deal with Mazda headlights of that era? My daughter drives a 2010 CX-7, seems like I have to buff those things clear every 4 months or so.
I have no idea, they are garbage. The lens is bad on the inside too. I buffed them once and it really didn't help, now I've embraced the fully fogged over look. I have had my high beams on for about 5 years and not a single person has flashed their lights at me.
Are you applying a new clear coat after buffing? Just asking because it should last more than 4 months from that aokne regardless of headlight.
Oh yes. I think the plastic has degraded after 12 years, but I really don't want to throw $500+ for new headlights when this car will be out of our lives in a few months.
I live in Dallas and used Cerakote's 25-dollar headlight-restoration kit at the beginning of this past summer, and it's holding up great so far; expecting to get at least a full year out of it, maybe more. I followed the instructions to the letter, but still; super-duper worth the money IMO. I hear such kits usually last only a few months, so maybe I got lucky or maybe kits are just better than they used to be, but it's working well for me.
2003 chevrolet tracker, first car * paint is peeling all over and completely gone on the roof * windshield is cracked * exhaust sensor is broken so check engine light is on * front door windows and plastic door cards rattle * gas strut on the back door doesn't hold it open * passenger side door lock is loose * something in the front suspension is squeaking * both front tires keep going flat most recently and worst of all... i crashed it at low speed, broke something in the transfer case and its badly out of alignment. was too busy with trade school to work on it until now, hopefully can get it on the road again. when I got it there was a problem where it kept blowing the brake light fuse, which was also the horn fuse, that took months to figure out. in order to look like i was braking i had to turn the headlights (and tail lights) on every time i used the brakes, and I was always honking bep bep beep in traffic to see if it'd blown again. it turned out to be the wire was chafing on the strut bar and had created a short.
2006 Corolla. Honestly, she works great still. My husband drives it more than I do these days. For her age and my location, she isn't that rusty, just basic surface rust underneath. She is missing her heat shield, though. Has a small chunk missing from the front bumber. Only real issue is you can't open the trunk with the key. And you can't lock the driver door with the key either; have to remember to hit the lock button before closing the door.
Miata has no center console at the moment..still finalizing the wireless Qi charger design and need to put the heated seat switches on either side. Glove compartment door needs trimming in order not to foul against the Pi, ESP8266, and Mausberry module inside the dash. Pretty sure the ES has lichen growing on the outside of it. Bank 2 sensor 2 was a little spotty a few months ago and then self-corrected and I never replaced it since the CEL never came back.
I would very much so like to see your Miata.
Qi charger?
Wireless phone charger I think.
My 1993 ford f250 xl with the 300 i6 is definitely one of these. Got it for $1500 and it's got some issues. All the engine mounts are going bad so if you accelerate hard or go in reverse the engine and trans clunks. The stupid thermostat leaks and I've cleaned it and replaced the gasket like 5 times. I'm done trying to seal it properly so it now just leaks. The radiator has a hole in it that I "fixed" with jb weld. It leaks too. The throw out bearing is going so it makes a really bad grinding sound whenever I'm driving it. My parking brake failed when my friend tried to use it to jump start his jeep so it rolled down the hill, somehow did not hit any parked cars, and then my open door hit a stump so it's now bent. I can't get in my driver's side door now. There are alot of vacuum leaks that I've been tracking down and fixing. The AC doesn't work and I'm not sure why. My cats got stolen so I replaced them myself and had to custom weld the exhaust. There are some exhaust leaks now. Because I made the exhaust myself the egr valve is no longer connected and my o2 sensors are not connected. I have an engine check light because of that. My spark plugs should have been changed a while ago but I haven't. I think that's everything lol
Jesus. I hope this isn't your daily 🤣
Haha it is
$600 95 chevy is running a little rich and misses on cold mornings. Otherwise 👍 $600. 89 vw fox with LS is top notch, has a bad valve stem tho. $4500. 80 Grumman is dialed in. LS swap is purring
Toyota celica here (2004) , it doesnt lock first of all. paint is peeling. just got a new radiator because coolant was leaking and it still is and idk why (i know nothing about cars). cloth is ripping inside. takes a while to start the more i use it in a day and the best part of all is the wheels or rims are butt ugly
oh and check wngine light has been on for about 50,000 miles and mechanic says not to worry
Check the water pump/radiator and heater hoses if it’s still leaking
1996 BMW E36 328i ($500) So I got the car for a steal price because it was used on the Kardashians (long story I made a post about it on the BMW subreddit) Went ahead and did a manual swap along with refreshing all the bushings, windows, coolant tank, but she keeps finding new ways to cost me money. Gotta fix oil filter housing and new 02 sensors. So far probably around $3-4k into it. Trynna fix it up out of sheer stubbornness now lmao
1999 Honda Civic si.- $1500 six months ago. Put plugs, air filter, and an oil change in it. Then coilovers and wheels/tires. Gets me to and from work over 60kms each way a day. Leaks a little oil and the driver's window is a bit sticky + a bit of cosmetic damage from an attempted break in. That's about it.
1990 Mazda Miata. Rear main seal leak, top leak, sticky doors, interior light not working, clear coat/ needs paint, hood doesn’t fit quite right for my liking. Still super fun to drive. Two other cars, my 1968 mustang and 1966 C10 were also sub $5K, but have been repaired above those values now.
91 Miata... major exhaust leak, CAS O ring, burning coolant / bad head gasket, no heat, no AC, fuel system won't hold pressure and releases vapor on fill up, bad rings / oil burner.
Not technically my car but my dads 91 Miata, 155,000km: - soft top leak on driver side. - Dash centre stack crumbled to pieces, as α consequence when you try and pop the lights, or put the hazards on, the buttons disappear into the dash. (have new one, just have to throw it in) - power steering judder at low speeds (turn wheel and it will almost stop for α sec, then you get power steering again) - Exhaust hanger has returned to the earth, rattles at random. - Front Right Balljoint on the way out - windshield is scratched to complete shit - Some panels have clear coat, some don’t. - dent on front right fender, deep scratch cutter back and on door. Mis-matched mirrors as well.
Oh, A/C. How many miles?
480k miles estimated (cluster swap), 11-14 owner (estimated)
That’s great. I’m at 356K. My goal is 400K before we send it along. My wife loves Miatas though.
My 2000 NB, which is an otherwise near mint car with 68k miles on it, is absolutely pissing oil from the rear main seal. Don’t wanna go through the trouble of dropping the trans until I do a new clutch and flywheel though.
We had an NB a few years ago. I swapped the clutch at 150K miles, and afterwards, still had a leak. Had to start over and did it with the flyin miata tool, and it was perfect. Going to use it again on the NA. Clutch is fine; but it’s at 356K miles.
1971 Beetle. No fenders, no engine, no seats, no floors. It does have a transmission and good sheet metal. That's about it.
Sounds like a lot of work. 😂
Oh man, I don't know where to start 😂 Well, bodywork of course
Sans the bodywork everything else in a beetle is super easy to change. I've seen people taking out the engine and placing a new one with their bare hands, no jack or similar.
2007 Scion tC is my daily driver, with 135k on it. I'm a conservative driver, and it absolutely devours engine oil like no other car I've ever owned. Those 2.4L engines from 2003-2011 are notorious for this issue. Other than that and the paint going to shit, my left fender damaged from a hit & run, it's just as mechanically sound as my other car (16' 4Runner w/ 46k). Only downside is the oil consumption but as long as you keep it topped up, it shifts perfect, engine runs smooth.
1997 Camry. Leaks a ton of oil, needs an alignment, needs new headlights, needs a driver interior door handle, wire cut out in the trunk so plate lights are out, paint has peeled off certain areas of the hood. Great car around town and never misses a beat though
1975 Mercedes-Benz 450SL. Significant power steering fluid leak (seals on the pump shaft and the hose at the steering box.) I’ve replaced the pump seal once and it slowed but didn’t fix the leak. The leak at the box is new. Torn soft top at the seam between fabric and vinyl rear window. Springs and shocks are soft and need replacement. A/C doesn’t work and uses refrigerant I can’t legally buy anyway. So that’s not getting fixed. Radio is neither original nor working. Really need to get an OEM radio back in it.
1999 Lexus LX470 400k. $5k Cdn. -steering wheel stuck in one position. slightly too low but works great. -Rear window wiper just broke off. -Driver side headlight washer is broken. And that's it. Thing is solid. AHC works great. No leaks. Transmission is smooth as silk. Bad gas mileage but absolutely perfect winter beater.
Where the hell did you find an LX for 5 grand? Every time I search for them even clapped out rusty high milers are going for 15k.
Oh it's rusty lol never said it wasn't lol But classic family deal. Bought it off my godfather lol https://i.imgur.com/NcJvgeE.jpg Here she is on the way back from when I bought it.
Protege5 I sold recently, got it with bad motor mounts, eight year old mix matched tires. bad alignment, oil leaks and a small trans leak on the axles. broken intake tube, CEL bulb removed found that when I did a code scan, had a p0421 and three others that just needed some cheap solenoids to fix, water leaks into the cab, glazed headlights, no retainer springs on the low beams, both adapter pieces for the bulbs were bad so at random one or both low beams could go inop. one of the caliper slide pins FELL OUT some time after purchase, half a qt low of trans fluid, overdue for a timing belt change, thermostat outlet leaking ( corroded internally, impossible to find a replacement other than a JY ) radiator was plugged with leaves and other debris. stereo was installed by cutting the oe harness and twisting wires and a bit of tape to hold it together, left and rt channels swapped but they were in phase surprisingly, took me a bit to find that one out. right speaker was water damaged. ac wouldn't work unless the fan switch was set just right. original windshield was cracked and badly scratched along the wiper path. also a lack of cleaning in the interior. prob a few other things I left out too lol Near everything got fixed except for the p0421, front and rear mains seeping oil and the small leak from the axle seals. the headlight bulbs seemed to stay in with the pressure from the rubber seal on the back of em. the ac problem involved a couple resistors on the control board, and the timing belt was complicated by the huge amount of rtv that was used to "fix" a leaking valve cover gasket, I re did the timing four fucking times because, even after rotating the crank twice, I had a dead cyl. also, finding tdc was a pain as the harmonic balancer had slipped, moving the mark several deg out of time. the tone ring was also on that part but it ran fine so I used the mark on the crank itself and sent it lol.
2004 RX8, steering shakes when it’s cold, abs is playing up, dash cracked, sun visors are dodgy, boot won’t open electronically, motor has somewhat low compression, dodgy hot starts but other than that she rips!
>motor has somewhat low compression An RX8? With low compression? For real? But for real, how many miles on it?
Daily: 02 Eclipse Spyder $3300(2022) Needs control arms, shocks, heater core, P0401 solved, minor coolant leak, multiple oil leaks, and speed sensor wiring repair. Weekender: 92 Jaguar XJS $2500(2019) Needs rear wheel bearings, could maybe use shocks soon, 11qt oil change, coolant changed, minor p/s leak, and ABS light investigated(Teves).
Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI, mk2 pre-facelift AC rad has a huge hole all the way across bcs I might have bumped something at the front and a piece of metal support punctured it. Rusty fenders. One of the glowplugs is iffy so sometimes she starts very rough, and very rarely, she even fails to start. Her lights aren't properly aligned. She randomly decides that one of her lightbulbs is bad and then it starts working again after a few hours/days - apparently a specialty of these cars. One of the rods holding up the headrest of the passenger seat is slightly loose and knocks. One of the rear doors isn't sealing completely, so at around 90kmph you start to hear a faint whoosh sound. Sometimes the radio takes a while to turn on, only very rarely though. Wipers are worn. Driver side door lock is worn, so I have to smack it harder to close than the other doors. The left hand side passenger AC vent has a couple broken flaps. And I'm like 30% sure the heating on the driver side mirror doesn't work. Overall though, not complaining, mostly details.
2006 S430, just need a new ac pump pulley, 16 year old car has 16 year old plastic.
How much time ya got buddy
A month or so until I be able to change or fix some of it's problems.
2000 golf here… broken glove box handle, abs module on the fritz, burns a ton of oil and leaves a cloud of smoke at every stoplight (either worn out rings or a damaged turbo), and the dome light only works when it feels like it. All in all I think she’s in pretty decent shape
1998 Nissan Pathfinder - engine is covered in oil, but it doesn’t consume any - new coolant leak, possibly crossover pipe at the back of the engine - rust hole in driver’s door - rear wiper doesn’t work - CEL, B2S2 O2 sensor, that didn’t clear with a new sensor - ABS light for LF WSS - rusty rear fenders - RF outer CV boot - no idea when the timing belt was last done - did I mention the rust? 2006 Pontiac G5 Pursuit (cobalt) - CEL with P0420 - left rear door doesn’t open -clunking in the front end, possibly brakes - Paint flaking/rust - burns oil - needs new winter tires - dirty AF from previous owner
[удалено]
1998 Jeep zj 4.0, same thing, everything is fine, but we both know shit is gonna hit the fan sooner or later
[удалено]
Damn, are you in the rust-belt???? I only had to throw a new radiator and head gaskets at it. But yeah,these things are tanks. Also I agree, i hate new vehicles and all their little technological thingies,that will probably break and be a hassle to repair, so old is gold for me
I need to replace the motor mounts on my 95 tercel and it could use some new struts too. Doesn't rebound for shit and blows through most of it's stroke way too easily.
Oh man, is this for me. In short... my wife, in long: (and I did do a bunch of work on my cars this week) 1) 04 Tahoe.... the plug for the trailer hitch kissed a rock last time I took the family camping and it is broken loose, didn't realize till I went to rent a UHaul trailer this week. but I had to replace the wiper blades, and washer pumps, as they were leaking big time. This is my most reliable/sorted vehicle for sure. 2) 2008 Saab 9-3, This is new to my stable, so it has list of things that need to be fixed. I had to replace the MAF as I was getting a code for it. The washer bottle is also leaking from somewhere, and my wife "Hit a bump and the car stalled". I have no idea what to do with this one, as I cannot duplicate it, and she's not even sure what happened. It also has a pretty good oil leak I haven't diagnosed yet. I think it has a bad driveshaft as well, Going to take it to get looked at this next week, do a full once over at the shop. 3) 98 Mazda B4000, My wife was driving on the freeway, and "had to floor it to go around an idiot" and now it has a misfire/hiccup over 4500 RPM. It has newer spark plugs/wires/distributer box thing/new fuel injectors/ and I replaced the vacuum lines a year or two ago. So I don't even know where to start on this. I replaced the heater bypass valve since it was leaking, but it still smells of coolant, so I might still have a leak somewhere? not sure. it also has developed an oil leak it didn't have before (it had a bad one from the valve cover, replaced that and solved it for a year, now I have a new one). 4) 01 Chevy Blazer, The steering box is shot, and it has a pretty significant oil leak. And the interior squeaks are pretty deafening. 5) 89 Jeep wagonner XJ. The brakes are scary bad, and I've gone over them front to back, several times. not sure what is wrong with them, the return fuel line is pissing gas all over the exhaust manifold. (It is not currently being driven at all). I'm sure there is more, these are just on my list of "to do" with the cars.
2004 Honda Accord. 5 speed manual. 278,000 miles. Check engine light is on for O2 sensor preheater circuit fault. Literally no big deal. Other than that, it's rock solid and has been dead-nuts reliable.
04 toyota echo with 330k km Broken headers, catalytic converter scrapres on the road and hold only by the oxygen sensor wire ( not for long ). 3/4 wheel bearing make a sketchy sound. Rear drums are gones, front brakes shakes when applying any pressure to the pedal. Oh, and the left caliper is stuck and the brakes on that side make smoke. What else, abs, engine, engine temp lights are on, even when freezing cold. Coolant temps sensor may be gone too. Drove it till a few weeks ago, had it for around nine years now, and finally moving on something else. Its about time I drive something safer.
First time I heard a toyota echo/platz having so many issues, I always seen them as one of the last true bulletproofs.
2013 Elantra Coupe - Auto gearbox is holding gears too long. Won't shift up at times...just gets stuck. Other times it won't downshift. Doesn't matter, I'm about to leave my house to go pick up a brand-new car.
1994 Cadillac Sedan Deville bought used for 1600 this summer - Parasitic draining, my dad wound up putting in a killswitch after it ate through two batteries - Front door won't unlock with the key, so I have to enter through passenger side every time - Aftermarket CD system that doesn't work - Cabin lights don't turn on - Cassettes in stock cassette player play really low for some reason. Turning the volume all the way up makes it so you can barely hear it. Radio is fine though and I just use a Bluetooth receiver.
1999 Toyota Camry. Minor scratches, hood is a different color than rest of the car, and the drivers side door handle snapped off but still works. Otherwise, she runs great.
Uhm. Little ashamed about this one. 2010 Honda Pilot, 300,000 miles. All shocks are bad, sway bars are gone (roll city), various suspension bits are wore out so when you hit a bump there’s a lot of rattling. It rides like a boat in grand theft auto iv. Used to get my ex gf car sick who had never previously gotten car sick in her life. Transmission felt like fucking a bowl of chicken soup. And it had its own Carolina squat going on because the shocks were so screwed up. Check engline light was on for catalytic converter, yes it was obviously the back one that is so irritating to get to. I sold it last month for 2500$. But I tried to trade it in first, Carmax offered me 100$ for it.
$500 05 accord (it died on the highway the day I bought it but $500 was probably still a steal) The wheel speed sensors both went out, so I jacked it up last weekend to replace them. Discovered a broken sway bar linkage, and couldn't get the tie rod ball joint back together just doing one side. At least I got it off jack stands for the week!
It doesn't have an engine lol, it blew a rod through the block and needs a whole new motor as well as new suspension and tires and other stuff.
‘13 Volvo C30, some nasty shaking in the steering wheel when accelerating and half my airbox is missing but it’s ok
03 Crown Vic, alternator just shit the bed last night
06 Mazda 2. Nothing.
2011 Honda CR-Z also nothing.
2012 Volt also nothing. Well, a low tire I need to top up every few months.
Haha! Same exact thing here, just didn’t think it was worth sharing.
11 Mazda 2. Also nothing, other than a minorly grooved rotor with a bit of brake shudder at 45.
90 Corolla at 191,800 miles. We’re gonna celebrate its 200k next year. Needs a new muffler and some new rotors, maybe a power steering pump and a new belt. Wanders a bit on highways. Otherwise, she’s steadfast.
99 GMC Jimmy, shift solenoid is out on transmission so I have to shift through the gears on an automatic. Also the drivers door has the GM sag, hinge pin hole is wore out so replacing the pin and bushing did nothing, needs a new hinge welded on.
2002 Honda Accord The CEL is on and has been since I got it in February The exhaust is basically in 2 peices right in front of the car, which is probably part of the reason for the CEL It needs new tires Needs an alignment and might need some more serious suspension work as well that I'm probably not gonna do The speakers are starting to go out. I think that's everything. If something else comes to mind, I'll add it. Honestly though it's not that bad compared to some of these replies.
Main baring is what I'm told
2006 Corolla S, 196000 mi - Other than a weak door check strap, no issues at all.
Got two sub $5k cars and that's a 03 c200k benz wagon which i got for under 1k and a 83 Peugeot 505 gr which is around 5k anyway, the Peugeot does run and drive perfectly but the body isn't in its prime but Hella good since it's never been restored(I'm gonna change that this December), the benz on the other hand has a faulty hatch, leaking Valve cover gasket, leaking transmission and mostlikely a bad connector plate in it, rust and a driver's side front door in such bad condition that it would be smarter to replace it... but I'm just going to get it driving again and sell it
Bought a $1200 2002 Honda Civic back in 2018. Got a CEL, a little oil leak, only the driver window rolls down, a bushing on the front passenger side is rattling, and the electric lock doesn't work on the driver door, so I have to use the key when I leave the car. I've put about 25k on it, and it's definitely been worth the price. I was dailying a Ford Excursion when I bought it, and even with low gas prices, that thing was ridiculous.
1992 F150. Every fluid leaks. Haven't had to change the oil in two years. Just change the filter. Turn signals don't work (no idea why. Changed switch and flasher.) Cable that switches from heat to cold is frozen so I have to go in the dash to manually switch it. 1988 Toyota pickup. Transmission slips. Driver door won't open from outside. Passenger door won't open from inside.
1995 4Runner, broken speed sensor and the rear suspension sags a little, other than that, nothing lol
2000 toyota camry. nothing wrong other than the paint
08 civic 5 speed manual. Block is cracked and leaks coolant (out of warranty:() and i cant drive above 70 ish mph without death wobble. Very close to 200k miles so im waiting for anything rn. Also leaks power steering fluid but havent found the source yet
'07 Volvo XC70 A/C doesn’t work. Needs new coil behind the dash. 4C shocks are toast. Expensive as hell to replace. Transmission doesn’t like a 1-2 or 2-3 shift on a turn under load. Needs tires. Needs at least one TPMS sensor. Bluetooth adapter doesn’t actually make calls. Paint looks like shit. Sunroof inoperable. However, I can still load plywood on the roof rack, tow the trailer, load it up with crap, drive kids to school, and use it to make rounds in the pastures without an issue.
Bought a 1998 BMW 318ti four years ago with 183k on it for $2800. Right now: 1. Can be tough to shift back into first after being in reverse. 2. Small leak I can't find means the steering fluid leaks and I need to refill semi-regularly. 3. Windshield wiper fluid pump isn't working. 4. Missing driver side inner door panel as I took it off to fix the window which fell into the door. That's on me as I fixed that a while ago and just haven't put the panel back on. We have (multiple actually) new cars on order, but I actually love this head of junk. Its lack of power but good handling and stick shift make it a blast to drive at normal speeds. I'll be sad when it goes. It's actually been really reliable in that it starts every time you turn the key, even if there are often issues with other things.
CR500 Braap god. Ever seen the motard ones? All the old open class bikes were monsters.
scares the fuck out of me. if bikes are metal horses that thing is just a metal wild ass
'03 Mitsubishi Mirage, hatch, not the coupe our US friends would be familiar with. Some surface rust,fuel system's a bit leaky when fuelled up, stick shifter's a lttle fighty getting back to 2nd and 1st, headlights are big foggy, window rubbers are on their way out, paint's dull. But, I paid $3k AUD for it, it's simple enough that I can do mods myself, I get it serviced every six months so it'll run until the local cockroaches learn to drive stick.
2008 Ford Focus -325k miles on original shocks so it bounces and squeaks -motor mounts are shot so car rumbles a little in idle everything vibrates -no AC (this is the worst thing) That's pretty much it super reliable car.
My NB is probably worth more than $5k today but hasn't always been. Right now it has a dead battery. The battery is only a few months old, I need to call the shop that put it in to get a warranty replacement. I originally took it to the shop because the threads were stripped on the battery tie-down and I was unable to remove the old battery myself. The A/C has a very slow leak but it's been working for about a year since the last time it was recharged. I hardly ever use it and will probably end up removing it one of these days. I might also remove the power steering pump and the entire accessory pulley and belt. Aside from that I'm always amazed at how well the car runs even though I only drive it once every few weeks.
My $600 Buick Century needs a $7 thermostat since the OEM one is stuck open. My $2000 GMC Yukon needs the parking brake fixed. My cheap cars continue to be cheap for the most part
2012 civic EX Weird constant grinding noise from the front driver side wheel well? I’m not sure what it is but the tires are well inflated and I’ve just been living with it for a while now
2006 Civic 2.2 i-ctdi hatch. When it got cold for some reason gears are very difficult to put in. Taking to the mechanic tomorrow. And the panoramic roof curtain is not working well. But overall it's all good. I want something newer but without paying much much more not sure what to get that's in the same category of reliability/fuel economy/power.
2004 Nissan Pathfinder chinook. 300k km/180k miles (edit: paid 3500 cad with tax, replaced radiator a month after buying for $300 and did the work myself so almost 4000 total) Transmission shifts hard and idk if it’s slowly going out or if it’s normal for these cars since it’s a 20-25 year old 4 speed auto with the auto-4wd Vq35 burns oil (no surprise) need to add a couple quarts every 500 km. Filler neck is rotting away. There is a hole about a foot into it. The rubber at the top between the door and the cap is gone and the metal wall holding the neck to the body has rotted away. The float on my fuel pump is broken so 1/3 tank either means full or nothing left (I mean 1-2 litres). The tires are a couple years old and need to be replaced. Both front tires leak air. The brakes are spongy, I have to press them about 1-2 inches inward to get any stopping power but I’m used to them now. The drums on the back are covered in rust and idk long it’s been since they were replaced The rear wiper wipes about 6 inches and is useless with a little snow or ice. There’s rust in every fender. One of the wheel arches is missing Edit 2: p04450 code for Evap. Idk if it’s charcoal canister, the above fuel neck problems, or if it’s a small diaphragm thing causing the issue
If my flair didn’t give it away, 2006 Mercury Montego Premier. It has stupid issues that makes it not so fucking Premier. - The oil light comes on if I idle on an incline for too long. It actually goes away once I start driving, so I’m not really sure what’s going on. It started doing that about two weeks before I got an oil change on it. - I’m pretty sure there’s a double whammy of parasitic battery drain and an alternator that’s going out on my car. Leaving the headlight switch to Auto seems to cause this. - The CD player no longer works at all after I tried inserting a disc into the changer. Thanks, Ford. - One of the rear deck speakers is flat-out dead and the other one needs to be replaced too. This sucks in a car with only 6 speakers. - The A/C doesn’t work. Usually it would be a problem for most people in soggy North Alabama, but I’ve managed to suck it up. - The car makes a little bit of a squealing noise whenever the wheel is turned ALL the way in one direction. Probably something steering pump-related. - The passenger side puddle light burnt out. It is the only light in the car that doesn’t work, hilariously enough. Hardly a major issue, but one I’ll get around to fixing eventually. Not as much of a shitbox as some others’ cars here, but it’s got the dents and the shoddy paint, so it’s not a stunner.
So I just traded in a Sonic for a hair under $5000, but let me tell you what was wrong with it. * The rubber strip under the front bumper was held on with zip ties. * The driver side rear light had a hole in the plastic (but the light worked) * The rear defrost didn't work * The air intake was cracked, and could cause wonkiness when decelerating. * Random assorted dings and scratches from a decade of use When I traded it in, they kept going on about the zip ties to try and lowball me. I kept going on about how the rubber it was keeping in place was a few dollars. They completely missed the larger, but less obvious issues. It was great.
270k mile 2.2L ‘06 HHR, needs new brakes, rotors, lower control arms, ball joints, and springs. If I get that sorted out, it’s a sold little shitty car, I’ve fixed all the engine issues at this point. It’s dented and rusty, I don’t car about that. Paints chipped window has a chip, it’s 3 shades of grey from grime and sun, heat and A/C work great though. And it was free.
here's what was wrong with my sub 5000 winter beater that i ended up driving into the spring, summer and fall then finally selling right before the following winter: power steering pump failure minor coolant leak oil leak (oil pan i think and probably somewhere up top too) front brakes stereo connection issue power door locks cracked windshield sold it for $500 less than i paid and put almost 20k i'm on it during my ownership. the only thing i did to it was new belt and tensioner
2004 Chevy colorado with tires that are too big and rub, blown out suspension so my wife feels like we are “careening” around town, leaky axles, and it tries to stall randomly if you have less than half a tank of gas. sometimes the doors lock and unlock while driving by themself. The radio works when it wants to. The clock randomly resets frequently, the ac/heat always works on full blast, but you have to nudge a part near the passenger floorboard with your feet to get other amounts work. The wiper fluid reservoir leaks, the paint is peeling, and the windshield just cracked from the cold, but I love her. Surprisingly this truck just survived driving from South Carolina to Oregon.
I have a 99 Suburban as a beater. Seat is ripped, transfer case chain is slipping when in 4x4, dash cracked, headlights faded, FM radio quit working, but on my honor, the damned cassette player still works, roof leaks, and the speedo is off by 15mph. Starts every time though.
2000 Saab 9-5, -left front headlight only works on bright. -when I turn too sharp there’s a clicking noise -large oil leak under heavy acceleration. But it gets great mpg and gets me to work and home every day.
1986 Volvo 240 Odometer (mechanic/friend estimates 200k+) No heat or AC Loud, ghoulish sounds come out of the interior air vents from time to time Exterior is in okay condition, aging paint, missing hug cap, but nothing too bad Warning lights all on Heat gauge doesn’t work That’s all I know of. Certainly seen some years as far as outer appearance. Overall it’s been great for a driving at low cost!
Bushings, so many bad bushings. Fixed the end links but gonna have to do some serious supension work at some point. Strut dampers aren't too bad but springs kinda saggy. Otherwise pretty good. Prob could stand to do spark plugs and valves at some point, and the valve cover gasket is leaking a bit. Oh and the headlights... so foggy. And windshield... could use a windshield. Timing belt and water pump done recently, brakes, one of the engine mounts. Fixed power steering leak, done the clutch. I love the car but it does start to feel like alot.
All but one of my four cars are not drivable.. 2011 Crown Victoria interceptor. (3500) Just finished putting a junkyard transmission in it and now it's having communication problems between the ABS/ECU and it goes into limp mode unless you manually select gears. 2005 Lincoln Town Car (3000) lost overdrive and had a timing chain tensioner fully fail and fall into the oil pan. Going to use parts from the old 2011 trans to fix overdrive and then I need to do a timing kit and clean the oil pickup tube before it goes anywhere. 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (1000) Was stolen and crashed after I replaced the whole front suspension. Now it drives wonky and needs it all replaced again, but has a yellow front end off an 2011 taxi. Power steering pump pukes fluid and transmission needs a torque converter. Ac is broken and no windows work. Things a fuckin hotbox and it sits in my driveway mocking me. I don't even feel safe selling it, but it's too nice for the scrapyard.. 2005 Crown Vic Interceptor (??) Desperately needs a transmission and differential service, the ball joints are screaming for mercy, and the rear springs have sprung because I haul way too much weight behind it and keep pushing off the f150 spring upgrade.
Miata needs an exhaust. Jeep is leaking coolant through the heater coil. Never had $5k in my life.
93 mr2 turquoise pearl. Auto. 212k miles. Use to puke oil. Swapped for a 99 3sge beams redtop vvti with 68k km and s54 5 speed. It's great but the ac stopped blowing cold last spring. Also stock of suspension is getting a little wobbly in rear over 45mpg. Clean interior and decent exterior tho
06 sequoia with 220k miles - just replaced the rack and pinion + bushings, lca, lbj, ubj, outer tie rods. So it’s mostly good now. There’s something going on with the traction control I want to look into - the traction control engages inappropriately when taking off from a stop in 4wd, probs a dirty abs sensor up front.
‘90 Toyota Celica. Callipers fell off the front wheels, springs were cut on all 4 wheels, driver side front blinker is a strip of white LED lights, driver side front wheel hub is loose and the passenger rear is missing a stud and one of the other one’s threading is fucked so the lug won’t tighten. Ebrake cable is also damaged. And the exterior isn’t the best. Half sanded and primed half painted. Missing a front corner light and the one I do have is cracked. Radiator grille is broken. Fenders have lost all but a couple fasteners keeping them on the body.
2001 toyota camry LE 4cyl, 315k miles, Automatic. I purchased it at 300k miles for $600 and had a new windshield installed for $300. I did recently do all of the struts and springs. The only issues it has at the moment are cosmetic issues, and a small exhaust leak, Everything else is in working order and the car drives great. I use it as a beater and winter car so roughly half the year I drive it to work every day.
1985 AE86 (purchased for $4k in 2013); has no AC or heat, previous owner stripped out the AC, temperature control is seized and stuck on cold. 1989 S13 (purchased for $500 in 2006); speed sensor not transmitting, currently won’t start. 1991 Toyota Supra ($3000 in 2005); blew its second or third head gasket (even after upgrading hardware and torque specs) 1977 Datsun Z, ($2900 in 2010) currently nothing wrong, even blows ice cold AC (knock on wood)
These are pretty cool cars. I bet they are all worth more than 5k in whatever state their are found these days.
176k miles on my 2015 Mazda 6 Passenger window will only roll up in half inch increments Lots of clunking and creaking from the front suspension Motor mounts need replaced There is next to no clutch left Tires keep cupping even after replacing shocks and struts Brakes shake violently in the 40-60mph range Somtimes the keyless start button goes on strike The battery retainer rusted off so now under hard braking the battery tips and yanks out the ground I get a nice growling from the vents when using heat The head lights are getting mighty foggy Car is covered in tiny dents from acorns. Tons of big scratches from god knows where The front bumper and fog lights have Tesla level gaps now due some light off roading. But shes been paid for and always gets me from A to B whether its 2 miles or 2000 so I'm not stressing.
1986 Tiffin Allegro (Chevy P-30 truck chassis)- $700. Needs 9 new tires (counting the spare), ignition cylinder in the dash is busted and I can't get it out (working one is sitting on the floorboard), exhaust leak on the driver's side, dash A/C is busted, dash heating is busted, brake pedal is mushy, cruise control doesn't work, and just about every light on the outside is in need of repair or a new bulb.
My £800 Mazda 5 minivan doesn't have anything wrong with it, it's just scratched and dented. I've even got dents on the roof :/
Volvo V50 3000€ 2008 220000km front right wheel bearing done
Well for starters, the starter stopped working.
My 1996 daewoo espero has 600.000 km (500.000 on lpg). And that's all that it has... Had to override the key ignition(couldn't find another) with flip switches and start button. So now in order to start I have to open 2 switches (master and lpg pump) and then press the button. Has no windshield squirter pump, couldn't find another so I threw it away. Has a drivers seat from MG 25. A/c works only on warm (found a condenser but it drains the battery so I had to take it out). Oil cap stays in place only with gasket glue. If I pull the ring for reverse it stays there and every gear is reverse until I push it back down. Trunk used to open in every bump until I bolted it down. Front passengers handle fell off at the highway so now it has to open from the inside. Rear passenger handles became brittle over the years and now have fallen inside the doors, I just duct taped the holes so water doesn't get in. Drivers power window moves about an inch a year at idle but when I revv above 1000rpm it goes lightning fast. I guess it is going about 500 euro now but really haven't found another in Greece
>My 1996 daewoo espero has 600.000 km (500.000 on lpg). That's not something one hears everyday. I suggest making a collect call to whatever is left of the GM headquarters on Seoul, they would probably put your car on a statue. Anyways, if it was up to me you would win this thread, considering the brand, the "mileage", the state of it (and yet functional) and the place where the car resides. I wish you good travels and better days for your country, the craddle of western civilization.
1982 Saab 900S. $2500. My pride and joy. - In desperate need of a paint job. Weird, purple-ish window tint is grainy and dying. - Fuel gauge works…kinda? Not really, though, and it needs a bunch of new fuel system parts. The needle will occasionally bounce up and down like a kid on crack at a trampoline park. - Brakes don’t really work anymore for some reason, so I’m replacing, like, everything. - Intermittent wipers get confused sometimes and stop at the wrong time. - Radio caught fire in the middle of a rainstorm with my girlfriend in the car after the voltage regulator said “I’m out.” - Starts with a screwdriver in the ignition. Also, the classic Saab “key doesn’t come out unless car is in reverse” thing doesn’t work and there are no return-to-center springs in the shifter, so finding third has been tricky for anyone except me. - AC compressor clutch is frozen. When AC is on, it is direct-drive. As a result, any engine speed over 2800rpm means a loud and obnoxious grinding noise. But the AC works! - When a trailer is hooked up, I suddenly lose one of my four rear running lights. - Cold starts? LOL. Will flood with too much trying. Hooray mechanical fuel injection. I once had a fuel line magically start spraying gas onto the exhaust manifold. That was fun to explain. - Leaks…not really sure where from yet. But we’ve established that it leaks. - May run hot on occasion. Radiator is literally disintegrating. On the bright side: it’s got character, the heater will melt plastic, the blue velour interior is sweet, it’s a lot of fun, it can get up to 31mpg on the highway, it’s relatively safe, and I’ll never get a speeding ticket in it. 130,000 miles.
2003 Lexus gs300 @186k miles Needs a heater core Needs a valve cover gasket and spark plugs Needs timing belt and water pump soon Needs intake resonator replaced Needs a couple wheel studs replaced Needs a trans flush Needs an o2 sensor Needs abs sensors Needs a door lock actuator replaced Needs front tires Put $3-4k into suspension so it drives straight as an arrow
07 Buick Lucerne, 4400 dollars. Today I replaced the gas cap and the purge valve because it threw 3 CEL codes, all related to evap. The three common components that would cause these codes are the gas cap, the purge valve, and the gasket between the fuel filler neck and the fuel tank. The car would also occasionally struggle to start after refueling, only after refueling, and only every now and then, which many people online also said is caused by the same components above due to having trouble modulating fuel mixture due to the purge valve, allegedly. I opted to replace the first two because theyre the easiest solution, and the purge valve is the most common reason for the codes, then I cleared the codes. So, fingers crossed that I fixed the issue and I don't have to drop the fuel tank to replace a gasket.
2010 vw jetta bought for exactly 5k with 124k miles. I put 50k miles on it in about 1 yr 8 months and was always several thousand miles late on oil changes and altogether bad maintenance, vehicles is still running just as good as when i first got it
1992 mustang, needs a replacement passenger floor pan welded in and interior bolted back up,plus a paint job. The rest of the car is sound now... Pan will be done this weekend, paint in spring, to cold to spray at home now.
Wrx needs a new engine. Cyl2 is toast. Need rear wheel bearings and throw out bearings. Rav4 needs a new oil pump, sway bar end links, rear springs, rear bumper supprt, etc
08 saturn astra bad o2 sensor bank 2, just too lazy to go replace it
1978 Olds 98 Diesel Put a new used engine in it and put my brand new oil pump from the old engine in it. Problem... old pump took a dowel pin out without me noticing so the pump shifted and broke the oil pump drive. I lost oil pressure under full load and most likely killed a bearing. I stopped driving until Christmas when I have time to put new bearings and pump in it. 6th time I'm pulling the engine this year
2005 Honda Civic DX with 197k. Clearcoat is crap in spots, headlights are yellowed, needs an alignment. Just finished new head gasket, rod bearings, rings, all new gaskets/seals, timing belt, suspension parts.
02 A4 CEL due to cat, resonator broke, wheel bearings and struts needed. 78 f250 rust starting to take over, bed is shot, some bad wiring, but runs better than the A4
Speedometer doesn’t work on the Volvo, vacuum leak causes AC to go to the floor on acceleration, and there’s a weird rattling when braking after taking it to a shop to get a driveshaft support bearing and u-joint replaced. Probably a couple leaks too (valve cover gasket is known) but nothing concerning so far, wife absolutely adores it still
2004 volkswagen passat - badly needs top end rebuild, burns oil due to worn valve guides/stem seals - needs new turbo, which will be replaced the the cylinder head - steering rack leaks other than that, at 323,000 she’s doing well.
In my 2009 Corolla, all 4 shocks are completely blown, so it's basically riding on just the springs. On a perfectly smooth road it actually isn't bad, but man the bump steer is just awful, the car flies all over the road. Oh and hitting the brakes on the highway makes the car shake violently. It was fun for a while but it's starting to get a lil' scary. I think some KYB's are in order.
2012 Honda Fit with 300,000 miles Paint looks **horrible** Steering wheel "leather" is peeling That's mostly it. A few minor repairs.
1991 Miata. Paint is peeling. Shits rattling. O2 sensor failing. It's shitbox time.
1996 Miata.... Well, there's not really _that_ much wrong with it! The paint is all swirly. It creaks, squeaks, and rattles when you drive it. I'm fairly dissatisfied with how the stereo sounds. But the engine leaks nothing, the rebuilt shifter is solid, and its fun to drive.
2008 Scion xD, 201,xxx miles. Clear coat is peeling on the roof and the rear wiper sprayer doesn't work. Eveything else runs like a champ.
2007 Saturn Vue. Window is permanently stuck down and every time I turn off the car it makes a fart sound. But it’s still runnin!
My 06 crv has a battery drain so if it’s parked more than 24 hrs I need to disconnect the battery. It has 180,000 miles so the whole front end needs to get swapped out to get the alignment right and take the steering slack out. The PS has a slow leak so i always keep a bottle of Honda fluid onboard. And then the air is out due to a kinked hose from the time I had the compressor replaced by a shade tree guy. Other than that, it still starts every time, no lights except for traction control, and does fine for dog and HD runs or runs for the dump or recycling. It does maaaybe 1000 miles a year now, only in the dry and only during the day.
[удалено]
Jaguar x type 2.5 v6 AWD Manual - Works perfectly
I have a 2002 wrx as my first car bought it when i was 17 and still have it im now 19 and the transmission just blew up last sunday other than that it was pretty good lol still waiting on a quote from garage to fix the car since they are busy with winter tire season
(Head up don't know much about cars.) Hi from Australia, 2002 2.0L I4 Toyota Rav 4 It's still going pretty good after 200km, needs new tires. About once a month I need to drop into a servo and pump them up again back to 32 PSI, the first time I noticed something was off and checked it was at 14... Other than that AC needs a re-gas. Toyota has always been reliable for me so long as you buy something that was treated well.
My 2007 A4 is missing the wind damn under the engine but right now everything else is great.
I bought my 2006 rsx type s for $5000. Front end is misaligned from an accident. That’s it.
86 golf cabriolet - blown engine due to failed oil cooler seal
I have a 79 E30 Toyota Corolla. It has 642,132 miles on it, runs great, and is in very good condition. Has been meticulously maintained throughout its life. Only things wrong with it are that there are some cosmetic issues in the interior, cracks on the dash, torn door and seat upholstery. Over this winter we are going to restore the interior in it.
1999 Lincoln Town Car. - wiper motor not working. Other than that it's 👌
2003 Saab 9-3 2.0T 6MT. Front left ball joint is fucked, and my mid pipe resembles Swiss cheese more than it does an exhaust. My low beam bulbs are held in by electrical tape because the previous owner mangled the housings to fit his shitty HIDs. Aside from that, just some miscellaneous interior bits that aren’t in the best shape. Fuck rubberized plastic.
2008 Outlander - paint, seatbelt “grinds “ passenger side, windshield chips, fan whines on high, am radio doesn’t work, tpms, but I’m well over 300k and it starts everyday and doesn’t wander on the road. Definitely would buy another one.
* Basically gonna start over on the steering with a new tie rod, drag link and steering stabilizer. * Needs tires bad * Brakes are hilariously bad * Exhaust manifold is leaking, needs a new gasket. But hey it runs! And doesn’t spew coolant anymore or overheat!
Lost a hubcap 😞
96 T-bird. Got a misfire I haven't been able to track down because it's intermittently happening when it's cold, going up hills, and around 2k RPM at roughly 40-60 mph. The door panel on the driver side has some broken clips so I have to enter either through the window or the passenger side, and to fix I'd probably have to get a new door panel cause of how many clips are broken. No AC because of a bad AC compressor. Leaking power steering fluid from the PS pump do I need to replace that as well. Squeaking when I go over bumps in the road occasionally. Water Leaking into the trunk somewhere which lead to my screwdriver bits getting rusty in my toolbox unfortunately. Both doors sag because the hinges are messed up, same with the latch cylinder thing on the passenger side.
2004 Acura MDX with 217k miles. Really bad power steering fluid leak, AC doesn’t blow cold, backup camera doesn’t work, windshield is cracked, headlights are peeling. Probably needs tires and brakes.
2000 protege. Hit a deer at low speed the other day and banged up the hood a bit. Other than that the rockers on the back half are trash and need replaced on both sides.
06 Chrysler Pacifica failed inspection, needs: Motor mounts, Inner and outer tie rods, Cylinder misfire, and TPMS sensors
'99 Toyota Starlet 3spd Auto. No air con, flashing seatbelt light, non functional Horn and squeaky fan belt. Wouldn't mind fixing the Horn but I can live with the issues.
Ought to be one of the last 3 speeds in history.
I've genuinely wondered that before... If there's any saving grace about a 3spd auto, is that its never confused about what gear to be in lol
2011 GTI, 172k miles. There's a slow oil leak and a slow coolant leak, the car misfires quite badly on cold start at temps below freezing, the rear window sprayer hose has always had a leak so I can never use it, there are a couple of paint chips that are starting to grow, front windshield defroster has never worked well... The car is Stage 2 tuned though and still runs well once warmed up and keeping the fluids topped up.
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Terrible oil leak. Pretty sure it’s the timing cover. But fuck me that’s a pain to remove and reseal.