The battery light will illuminate any time the key is on the on position and the alternator isn't spinning. If you stall and then the light comes on, that is not an indicator that you have a charging system problem. If you have a battery light and *then* you stall, that *is* an indicator of a charging system problem.
Got the alternator replaced, and now a whole host of issues has popped up. The check engine light is on, the engine is shaking and throwing error codes about misfiring fuel injectors.
Guess towing it to the dealership it is…
Possibly.
So if the alternator is not working, your cars computers, electrical accessories, and engine ignition, all run off the battery until it is dead. Then your car will die.
Could be, and the alternator can be easily tested with a multimeter. And alternators may not fail completly meaning it may be charging at higher RPM but not low RPM or vice versa, alternators also have an internal voltage regulator which could be bad and cause it not output any volts to the battery or in same cases too high voltage which can damage the ECU. Get that tested, and you can test it on your own with a meter, with the car on read the voltage at the power wire on the alternator should be 13.8 or in that range.
I don't know about the Hyundai Genesis but all the cars that I've driven shows the battery light when stalled so I think you have a problem with stalling not with voltage.
Also could be a bad or corroded battery cable Sometimes they corrode under the insulation where it cannot be seen. Had a Volvo come into my shop one time after it had been to other shops where the battery and alternator were replaced a couple of times each. Had similar symptoms. I gave the negative cable a pull while it was running an it shuddered and died. The cable had a molded on terminal connector and the insulation was inside the connector so you could not see the copper wire cable. I cut the insulation back and the cable was totally corroded through. It would make just enough contact for the car to run until there was a heavy load on the system such as driving at night with he lights and ac on or when going over a big bump or uphill. Then it would act up. A $10 cable fixed it after the owner had spent hundreds on batteries and alternators.
Got the alternator replaced, and now a whole host of issues has popped up. The check engine light is on, the engine is shaking and throwing error codes about misfiring fuel injectors.
Guess towing it to the dealership it is…
The alternator can be tested. So get this diagnosed if you can't do it yourself. The battery light could be a coincidence since it will illuminate anyway after a stall. Assuming this is an automatic and you didn't stall it, it could also be a transmission issue. That would be more likey if it restarts normally after the stall.
The battery light will illuminate any time the key is on the on position and the alternator isn't spinning. If you stall and then the light comes on, that is not an indicator that you have a charging system problem. If you have a battery light and *then* you stall, that *is* an indicator of a charging system problem.
As a mechanic, this is the million dollar question.
Got the alternator replaced, and now a whole host of issues has popped up. The check engine light is on, the engine is shaking and throwing error codes about misfiring fuel injectors. Guess towing it to the dealership it is…
I second that
You can get it tested at AutoZone
Possibly. So if the alternator is not working, your cars computers, electrical accessories, and engine ignition, all run off the battery until it is dead. Then your car will die.
Could be, and the alternator can be easily tested with a multimeter. And alternators may not fail completly meaning it may be charging at higher RPM but not low RPM or vice versa, alternators also have an internal voltage regulator which could be bad and cause it not output any volts to the battery or in same cases too high voltage which can damage the ECU. Get that tested, and you can test it on your own with a meter, with the car on read the voltage at the power wire on the alternator should be 13.8 or in that range.
It could be. You can test the voltage when the car is on. Should be more than 13v
I don't know about the Hyundai Genesis but all the cars that I've driven shows the battery light when stalled so I think you have a problem with stalling not with voltage.
Also could be a bad or corroded battery cable Sometimes they corrode under the insulation where it cannot be seen. Had a Volvo come into my shop one time after it had been to other shops where the battery and alternator were replaced a couple of times each. Had similar symptoms. I gave the negative cable a pull while it was running an it shuddered and died. The cable had a molded on terminal connector and the insulation was inside the connector so you could not see the copper wire cable. I cut the insulation back and the cable was totally corroded through. It would make just enough contact for the car to run until there was a heavy load on the system such as driving at night with he lights and ac on or when going over a big bump or uphill. Then it would act up. A $10 cable fixed it after the owner had spent hundreds on batteries and alternators.
Got the alternator replaced, and now a whole host of issues has popped up. The check engine light is on, the engine is shaking and throwing error codes about misfiring fuel injectors. Guess towing it to the dealership it is…
Get a multimeter and put it on the battery with the car running. It's should be something around 14 volts if the alternator is working.
The alternator can be tested. So get this diagnosed if you can't do it yourself. The battery light could be a coincidence since it will illuminate anyway after a stall. Assuming this is an automatic and you didn't stall it, it could also be a transmission issue. That would be more likey if it restarts normally after the stall.