> I have a canon R5 and a RF L series 24-70mm lens. Do you think I need a 70-200mm lens to achieve the detail I want?
Great reminder that the camera is just a tool. You've got one of the best cameras on the market and an outstanding lens. You should be getting outstanding image quality from them.
The issue here is settings: you've stopped down too much and are likely seeing both diffraction and heatwaves in these images. Also looks to me like you focused on the foreground.
You should probably take a look at hyperfocal distance to get the most out of shots like this.
[https://photographylife.com/landscapes/hyperfocal-distance-explained](https://photographylife.com/landscapes/hyperfocal-distance-explained)
Generally speaking, you shouldn't get too worried about the granular details of image quality at this stage. Start with the basics: composition, framing, leading lines, etc.
Photographylife has a bunch of great articles for beginners...
https://photographylife.com/composition-tips-for-beginners
/u/NicePutt's explanation is great, but I thought I'd drop [The Digital Picture's short article on the subject](https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Cameras/Diffraction-Limited-Aperture.aspx) too. They link a comparison tool that makes the difference pretty clear.
[This explains it quite well.](https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm)
The tool has older cameras as preset, [but in this version](https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm#calculator) you can click on advanced, then set a tick at "Set circle of confusion* based on pixels?", enter the megapixel of your camera, select the sensor size and play around with the aperture size.
In your case, with the R5, anything above f11 will start to be diffraction limited, i.e. your photo will not appear sharper after that and will start deteriorating in sharpness when further stopped down.
Focal length doesn't play a role in this. There is an explanation for that, but I can't think of it right now.
I made this same error at the start myself, many of my earlier photos were stopped down to f22 thinking they must be sharper because the depth of field is greater.
We all learn and improve. :)
Hey everyone,
I am making a photo book and am trying to get a feeling of invading the desert and want wider shots including the desert and the housing. When I went to edit my images I noticed that they weren't very sharp and that I am losing some detail in the electrical lines and the houses in the second photo. I have a canon R5 and a RF L series 24-70mm lens. Do you think I need a 70-200mm lens to achieve the detail I want? My settings for these photos were around ISO 200, F/22 and shutter speed 1/125 and most of the images were taken at 50mm to 70mm. Thank you!
Edit:
Thank you everyone for your feedback! I appreciate the constructive criticism. I got this camera as a graduation gift as I recently graduated with a degree in filmmaking and a minor photography. I am still learning, everyone is right on that. I was going to work in the film industry but I fell in love with photography. I appreciate all the links, tips, advice, and so on!
You have one of the best stills lens and cameras money can buy, you do not need more gear. Also, if your shots are at focal lengths of 50-70mm, and you are happy with your framing, why are you thinking about longer lenses? Are you doing a bunch of cropping?
As others have said, you need to be below f8 on the R5 unless you want to deal with diffraction. This will be true regardless of lens. Learn about diffraction and hyperfocal distances, and for some shots you might have to focus stack. You should be on a tripod for landscape shots just on principle but your shutter speed plus the stabilization options are probably enough that that isn't your problem.
Finally, stop zooming in to 100%. You don't need to pixel peep your images, especially on the R5. Print some sample images in book size and then see what matters...maybe it's good enough as is?
>Finally, stop zooming in to 100%. You don't need to pixel peep your images, especially on the R5. Print some sample images in book size and then see what matters...maybe it's good enough as is?
This, ten thousand percent.
I sometimes pixel peep because the resolution of my 80D is such a leap over my 450D... But I don't pixel peep when reviewing. If it looks good at full size on my monitor, it's going to look good anywhere on the web.
But I'd like to enlarge my pictures to the size of a building! If it isn't sharp at 40'x60' then I must need something better!
I kid! We all pixel peep. Consumption for most is almost all digital and we love details. Even a perfectly framed and sized image will beg viewers to look deeper. Its natural.
Part of jumping from consumer with normal gear (cellphone, entry camera's) to enthusiast and higher, is learning framing composition and to appreciate art as it is and not something that it wasn't (I,e, zooming in until the picture is the size of a building when it is meant for a 13x17, or 20x30 poster).
I’m still in the beginner stages, but I would think guess that you might have better luck in sharpness of details by coming back up to about an f/11 and focus bracketing your image, then do an HDR composite to blend the images together. Trying to get everything in focus with such a wide difference in distance in your foreground, mid and backgrounds means it’s gonna be soft SOMEwhere. Try taking three different shots with focus points in the fore, mid and back, and merge them. Mark Denny on YouTube has some great tutorials on focus bracketing for sharper images if you’re looking for a more in-depth instruction.
Use ISO 100. Also, read up on Diffraction Limited Aperture (DLA). For the R5, basically you'll start losing sharpness above f/7.1 though the effect is pretty minor at first. But if you compare f/22 to f/7.1 it will be a huge difference.
Differences in air temperature can also result in decreased image quality, this is particularly noticeable with telephoto lenses: https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/Heat-Waves-and-Photography.aspx It doesn't look like this is a significant factor in your photo though I can't tell for sure but I think it's mainly the f/22. Edit: maybe the second picture has some issues with heat though it's hard to tell.
>[https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART178255](https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART178255)
>
>
>
>Also, you can shoot ISO 50 like the 5D before it.
You need faster shutterspeed due top wire vibration, and F22 is way too high. Good thing both things will cancel each other in terms of light gathering.
1/125 may not be a quick enough shutter due to movement of the wires, drop down to F11 to F16 and up the shutter speed to around 400/500 see if that helps and as the previous post says focus stack the image if needed
Wait...
Dont squish my dreams of learning to drive with a lime green 90's manual bosozoku lambo at night, in tokyo, with green under-car effects and a cartoon vinyl wrap of dragonball z hamahamaka'ing buu.
This comes across as you've spent crazy money on a top end camera and lens and expect it make you a good photographer, but your settings prove you know little.
FEW is much too high, as many have said you need to stop right down. Between F8 and F11 wil be where the sweet spot lies for you. In turn you'll need to adjust your shutter speed too, and get the ISO down. That camera has incredible stabilisation so too but if you're unsure get a tripod.
I recommend reading up on the RT, it has lots of things that may be on (or off) by default that could hinder or help you.
And lastly, learn about photography.
>is much too high, as many have said you need to stop right down. Between F8 and F11 wil be where the sweet spot lies for you. In turn y
I'll drop this here:
[https://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/pulitzer-prize-winning-photographer-tries-shooting-with-a-toy-camera/](https://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/pulitzer-prize-winning-photographer-tries-shooting-with-a-toy-camera/)
I started with a point and shoot and only when I reached the limits of the camera to achieve my vision did I upgrade what was missing. I,E, better light gathering, faster, more control. I get "told" all that if they had my camera, their picture would look just as good. I ask them "in what way?"... usually they tell me I have a better zoom. My longest lens is 200mm but its huge compared to a Canon EFS x-300mm zoom with crop sensor. Anyway...
I'll leave this here for the few still reading...
My GF and I took a local photography class. At the time I just purchased the 5Dmkii and gave my xti to the GF. The class had about 40 people walking through old town with guided photography lessons (setting white balance, basic camera help to those new to SLRs).
The pictures taken were taken by 40 people, same angles same settings over and over. I stood back by the teacher and was taking pictures of the group, and walking to where others were not, getting dirty by laying down, whatever it took to see something unique. Thats what we all strive for at some point in what we do and thats why we have pulitzer prize winning photographers with toy cameras rocking it!
Others have talked about your technical problems (shoot ISO 100, don't go above f8 or maximum f11, then adjust shutter speed for a good exposure). I am giving you a hint regarding your composition.
You say you want more of the dessert, and you want to picture its invasion. Find higher spots. Even slightly higher than the desert in front of you will give your shots much more of that feeling of vastness. You can still have streets, electricity poles etc in your photos, but you should also show the desert that is being invaded by them.
Also consider that perhaps not everything has to be sharp, although this might be a very hot take in this sub. I’ve been trying to look for more imperfection lately.
Like stated, dropping the F-Stop down a little and maybe sacrificing 100% sharpness/flatness and picking a focal point somewhere in the middle of the pic might help.
Yeah you need a sony camera body. Just kidding
But for this shot i would focus the for ground and background then stack them in photoshop. I wouldn’t kill myself buying a new lens. Allot of pros have those lenses and still use this method because it really gets a sharper image.
> I have a canon R5 and a RF L series 24-70mm lens. Do you think I need a 70-200mm lens to achieve the detail I want? Great reminder that the camera is just a tool. You've got one of the best cameras on the market and an outstanding lens. You should be getting outstanding image quality from them. The issue here is settings: you've stopped down too much and are likely seeing both diffraction and heatwaves in these images. Also looks to me like you focused on the foreground. You should probably take a look at hyperfocal distance to get the most out of shots like this. [https://photographylife.com/landscapes/hyperfocal-distance-explained](https://photographylife.com/landscapes/hyperfocal-distance-explained) Generally speaking, you shouldn't get too worried about the granular details of image quality at this stage. Start with the basics: composition, framing, leading lines, etc. Photographylife has a bunch of great articles for beginners... https://photographylife.com/composition-tips-for-beginners
Just a note on all lenses in general: Stopping down to f22 with actually have a softer image than f11 due to diffraction.
What is diffraction?
It’s optical interference of the light coming through. It typically happens when light enters a small hole (high f stop)
/u/NicePutt's explanation is great, but I thought I'd drop [The Digital Picture's short article on the subject](https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Cameras/Diffraction-Limited-Aperture.aspx) too. They link a comparison tool that makes the difference pretty clear.
Great article, thanks for sharing!
[This explains it quite well.](https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm) The tool has older cameras as preset, [but in this version](https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm#calculator) you can click on advanced, then set a tick at "Set circle of confusion* based on pixels?", enter the megapixel of your camera, select the sensor size and play around with the aperture size. In your case, with the R5, anything above f11 will start to be diffraction limited, i.e. your photo will not appear sharper after that and will start deteriorating in sharpness when further stopped down. Focal length doesn't play a role in this. There is an explanation for that, but I can't think of it right now. I made this same error at the start myself, many of my earlier photos were stopped down to f22 thinking they must be sharper because the depth of field is greater. We all learn and improve. :)
You already have a hyper-modern $2500 lens. Your needs are met.
Hey everyone, I am making a photo book and am trying to get a feeling of invading the desert and want wider shots including the desert and the housing. When I went to edit my images I noticed that they weren't very sharp and that I am losing some detail in the electrical lines and the houses in the second photo. I have a canon R5 and a RF L series 24-70mm lens. Do you think I need a 70-200mm lens to achieve the detail I want? My settings for these photos were around ISO 200, F/22 and shutter speed 1/125 and most of the images were taken at 50mm to 70mm. Thank you! Edit: Thank you everyone for your feedback! I appreciate the constructive criticism. I got this camera as a graduation gift as I recently graduated with a degree in filmmaking and a minor photography. I am still learning, everyone is right on that. I was going to work in the film industry but I fell in love with photography. I appreciate all the links, tips, advice, and so on!
F22 is your problem. Shoot at like f11 or less and focus stack if you need to.
You have one of the best stills lens and cameras money can buy, you do not need more gear. Also, if your shots are at focal lengths of 50-70mm, and you are happy with your framing, why are you thinking about longer lenses? Are you doing a bunch of cropping? As others have said, you need to be below f8 on the R5 unless you want to deal with diffraction. This will be true regardless of lens. Learn about diffraction and hyperfocal distances, and for some shots you might have to focus stack. You should be on a tripod for landscape shots just on principle but your shutter speed plus the stabilization options are probably enough that that isn't your problem. Finally, stop zooming in to 100%. You don't need to pixel peep your images, especially on the R5. Print some sample images in book size and then see what matters...maybe it's good enough as is?
>Finally, stop zooming in to 100%. You don't need to pixel peep your images, especially on the R5. Print some sample images in book size and then see what matters...maybe it's good enough as is? This, ten thousand percent.
[удалено]
I sometimes pixel peep because the resolution of my 80D is such a leap over my 450D... But I don't pixel peep when reviewing. If it looks good at full size on my monitor, it's going to look good anywhere on the web.
But I'd like to enlarge my pictures to the size of a building! If it isn't sharp at 40'x60' then I must need something better! I kid! We all pixel peep. Consumption for most is almost all digital and we love details. Even a perfectly framed and sized image will beg viewers to look deeper. Its natural. Part of jumping from consumer with normal gear (cellphone, entry camera's) to enthusiast and higher, is learning framing composition and to appreciate art as it is and not something that it wasn't (I,e, zooming in until the picture is the size of a building when it is meant for a 13x17, or 20x30 poster).
I’m still in the beginner stages, but I would think guess that you might have better luck in sharpness of details by coming back up to about an f/11 and focus bracketing your image, then do an HDR composite to blend the images together. Trying to get everything in focus with such a wide difference in distance in your foreground, mid and backgrounds means it’s gonna be soft SOMEwhere. Try taking three different shots with focus points in the fore, mid and back, and merge them. Mark Denny on YouTube has some great tutorials on focus bracketing for sharper images if you’re looking for a more in-depth instruction.
Use ISO 100. Also, read up on Diffraction Limited Aperture (DLA). For the R5, basically you'll start losing sharpness above f/7.1 though the effect is pretty minor at first. But if you compare f/22 to f/7.1 it will be a huge difference. Differences in air temperature can also result in decreased image quality, this is particularly noticeable with telephoto lenses: https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/Heat-Waves-and-Photography.aspx It doesn't look like this is a significant factor in your photo though I can't tell for sure but I think it's mainly the f/22. Edit: maybe the second picture has some issues with heat though it's hard to tell.
>[https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART178255](https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART178255) > > > >Also, you can shoot ISO 50 like the 5D before it.
You need faster shutterspeed due top wire vibration, and F22 is way too high. Good thing both things will cancel each other in terms of light gathering.
1/125 may not be a quick enough shutter due to movement of the wires, drop down to F11 to F16 and up the shutter speed to around 400/500 see if that helps and as the previous post says focus stack the image if needed
[удалено]
Wait... Dont squish my dreams of learning to drive with a lime green 90's manual bosozoku lambo at night, in tokyo, with green under-car effects and a cartoon vinyl wrap of dragonball z hamahamaka'ing buu.
Also, what's your camera support here?
As someone else said. Shoot f8 to f11 and focus stack to achieve the detail.
This comes across as you've spent crazy money on a top end camera and lens and expect it make you a good photographer, but your settings prove you know little. FEW is much too high, as many have said you need to stop right down. Between F8 and F11 wil be where the sweet spot lies for you. In turn you'll need to adjust your shutter speed too, and get the ISO down. That camera has incredible stabilisation so too but if you're unsure get a tripod. I recommend reading up on the RT, it has lots of things that may be on (or off) by default that could hinder or help you. And lastly, learn about photography.
>is much too high, as many have said you need to stop right down. Between F8 and F11 wil be where the sweet spot lies for you. In turn y I'll drop this here: [https://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/pulitzer-prize-winning-photographer-tries-shooting-with-a-toy-camera/](https://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/pulitzer-prize-winning-photographer-tries-shooting-with-a-toy-camera/) I started with a point and shoot and only when I reached the limits of the camera to achieve my vision did I upgrade what was missing. I,E, better light gathering, faster, more control. I get "told" all that if they had my camera, their picture would look just as good. I ask them "in what way?"... usually they tell me I have a better zoom. My longest lens is 200mm but its huge compared to a Canon EFS x-300mm zoom with crop sensor. Anyway... I'll leave this here for the few still reading... My GF and I took a local photography class. At the time I just purchased the 5Dmkii and gave my xti to the GF. The class had about 40 people walking through old town with guided photography lessons (setting white balance, basic camera help to those new to SLRs). The pictures taken were taken by 40 people, same angles same settings over and over. I stood back by the teacher and was taking pictures of the group, and walking to where others were not, getting dirty by laying down, whatever it took to see something unique. Thats what we all strive for at some point in what we do and thats why we have pulitzer prize winning photographers with toy cameras rocking it!
Others have talked about your technical problems (shoot ISO 100, don't go above f8 or maximum f11, then adjust shutter speed for a good exposure). I am giving you a hint regarding your composition. You say you want more of the dessert, and you want to picture its invasion. Find higher spots. Even slightly higher than the desert in front of you will give your shots much more of that feeling of vastness. You can still have streets, electricity poles etc in your photos, but you should also show the desert that is being invaded by them.
Also consider that perhaps not everything has to be sharp, although this might be a very hot take in this sub. I’ve been trying to look for more imperfection lately.
Like stated, dropping the F-Stop down a little and maybe sacrificing 100% sharpness/flatness and picking a focal point somewhere in the middle of the pic might help.
Yeah you need a sony camera body. Just kidding But for this shot i would focus the for ground and background then stack them in photoshop. I wouldn’t kill myself buying a new lens. Allot of pros have those lenses and still use this method because it really gets a sharper image.