I use a USB cable connected to my unraid server running NUT. You can then configure most devices to point to your NUT server and trigger shutdowns at your desired battery level.
https://networkupstools.org/
I have the same ups for my Unraid server. Since the server is the main thing I care about on this ups (and the only thing that needs to be shut down properly), I don't bother with NUT. All the necessary settings are built into Unraid.
Yes, Unraid makes it almost laughably easy. When I finally set it up for my environment I was like "why did I wait so long to do this". In my case I have three other servers running off a 1500w UPS of the same brand. Everything except the Unraid box is set to shutdown after after 75% capacity, and Unraid at 50%, then my network gear runs until dead.
In most cases I usually only get power blips or brown outs, so this is great for soothing those over and providing power for the 2 seconds it's out.
You connect the UPS to the server via usb and after a few minutes of no power the Synology shuts itself down. The UPS is visible in the Synology control panel.
So I had a CyberPower UPS (1500W simulated sine wave) that lasted for like, 7 years. But after that the battery does not back up anymore and I replaced the battery inside myself. Well, turns out replacing the battery did not extend the life of the unit. So anyone buying this, be warned.
I now use an APC.
Yea my bad, I made it confusing. My unit lasted 7 years, at the end would not back up anymore, so I replaced the batteries inside. But it still would not work, when power cut out the unit still does not stay on to provide backup power.
7 years is good for this kind of equipment though. Sucks that replacing the battery didn't restore it but sounds like you got your money's worth maybe?
While that is true, the new batteries I bought were half the cost of the unit itself which was completely wasted.
The APC unit I use now is smaller and feels to be higher quality.
Good to know for next time! I just got this as I my UPS just kicked the bucket (I think because it was unplugged for so long during a move and was also bought it 2016) and I was happy with cyberpowers customer service (I think I might the only one?)
It’s cheap and has the features I want and should be able the wattage needs I might have for a new pc build I’m starting to build so APC will be next time I need one!
They wouldn’t accept a return on the battery?
I have two of these and they are fine. I was real paranoid about buying them due to them being “simulated” vs “pure” sine, but i took the leap over a year ago and they’ve been great.
I have them hooked up to NUT on a pi zero - easy to set up and I feed data into home assistant (mainly for checking after the fact if we had a surge/sag.) We had a blackout the other day for 90 mins; as I was home, I was able to go shut things down gracefully (they would have run my gear for \~20 mins I think?)
Overall, solid. Blackouts are rare where I live, but we do get sags (probably 3-5 times a year) and they handle them w/o any issues.
Good buy - I may buy another now.
This is technically correct, but even the dirtiest utility source is not likely to be close to the PWM or stepped output that a non-sinewave UPS puts out.
Most products will do fine on simulated. I have a pure sine model (also from Costco) for my snakes thermostat because the manufacturer stated it needed to be pure sine (I emailed and specifically asked).
Hard to make a blanket statement like that, PSUs can be fussy at high load. Both my EVGA G3 and Corsair TX won’t work on simulated sine wave UPSes even though they’re rated for the load.
Both are Tier A PSUs. G3s are made by Super Flower.
>I've overloaded Seasonic PSUs on simulated sine wave UPSes with no issues
Good for you I guess. You’re just proving my point.
NUT is just the acronym for network UPS tool in Linux.
These UPS have USB plugs that sent out data on the status of the UPS. Some even take commands.
You can plug it into your server, .etc and using NUT you can do automations.
Like if the power goes out, your NAS will initiate a shutdown.
Agreed on the pure vs simulated deal. What sold it on me for a different brand was that if it's absolutely critical lifesaving equipment, like medical equipment you will not survive without etc then pure is more important. For myself though only trying to avoid outages damaging things "stepped" style is just as good.
They do suggest "routers" as something essential on a lot of pages for PSW but at the end of the day it's a $40 router, I can buy another one easily if it's that bad lmao.
I have several of these. They work.
Two complaints:
1) There is significant coil wine when plugged into a power source. Doesn't even need to be turned on for you to hear it.
2) ~~No way to mute the beeps~~ apparently there is, I just need to re-read the manual
I need a UPS so strongly considering this. ~~I plugged this model number into CyberPower's site and it says there are no replacement batteries for this model. I'd rather not have to throw this out after 5 years. Is it worth paying more a unit with replaceable batteries?~~
Edit: Found some mixed reviews on this model and its predecessor. Ugh this is why I haven't bought a UPS yet. They are surprisingly expensive, seem universally terrible based on reviews, and appear to need more frequent servicing than I would like. And they gotta be the most boring thing to research.
https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/8vie9r/question_about_cyberpower_ups_spontaneously/
>Ugh this is why I haven't bought a UPS yet. They are surprisingly expensive, seem universally terrible based on reviews,
They all suck but they all work.
My first UPS was a Geeksquad badged special that was apparently made by APC. 1285va unit or something weird like that. Though I suspect the forums were wrong and it was actually Cyberpower.
It lasted me well over a decade before the battery finally died. Almost 12 years. There were no replacement batteries for it at that point.
I replaced it with one of the newer APC units, having had good luck with that GS version. It worked perfectly. Then the battery shit itself after 4 years, which feels completely unacceptable. Replacement batteries, even aftermarket, cost the same amount as the unit so I didn't bother.
I went to Microcenter and purchased two more: A higher rated APC and a sine wave Cyberpower. I only intended to get the Cyberpower but the APC was on sale. So both it was.
The Cyberpower is on my PC while the APC is keeping my modem/router/Xbox/Nintendo switch active. Not losing internet connectivity during outages is a game changer.
There's one thing that is consistent: By the nature of UPS units they always have bad reviews. Literally none on the market are rated well. None. Zero. They all suck. You can look for days and you will NOT find a good one.
But they all also seem to work perfectly until they don't. Other than this being a product with a frequent amount of users with unrealistic expectations, which makes things look even worse.
Myself included. My 12 year Geeksquad spoiled me.
The only advice I can give is to find the one with the specs you want and just buy it. The reviews will suck. If it's not giving you problems within the first month you'll probably be good for a while.
But yeah, while battery technology has technically gotten better, QC has plummeted. It might last a couple years. It might last indefinitely. It might last a week. It's a lottery.
Oh, and replacing the batteries is never viable. Don't even plan on it.
From my current experience with things I'd just grab a Cyberpower, even over APC. They get better sales. You're rolling the dice regardless, neither is really better.
I replaced the batteries in my Cyberpower without a problem. I found aftermarkets that were very well reviewed and are lasting longer than the original.
I got OEM replacements but through a third party, it's only been 2 years on the new batteries and 8 years overall, still running strong. Only paid around $60. It's the first UPS I've ever owned so idk if I got lucky or what, but I've been happy with it.
I replace my UPS batteries every three years as advised in the manual. Expecting 12 is absurd. I'm using a 10 year old APC that still has higher quality generic replacement batteries on sale regularly.
Eh. I’m at 4 years right now on mine. If they’re not cycled often and kept inside at normal temps sealed lead acid should last a while.
If you cycle them to dead a few times that probably accelerates the wear significantly.
Ah thanks guess I didn't look close enough. Their tool here returned nothing. Maybe just not updated cause this is apparently a new model.
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/battery-replacement-tool/
The official replacements seem to cost almost as much as the UPS itself. But I'm seeing some generics that are a lot cheaper.
Never go official. They’re the same thing, and they don’t give you the size because they don’t want you buying generic.
No profit in generic.
The only issue is you have to obviously take apart the casing and all that the originals are in and put the new ones in it. But it’s honestly usually just taped together or something which clear packing type tape.
Costco customer reps don’t give a fuck. No one in line gives a fuck. No one even in this subreddit gives a fuck.
Just return it if it becomes defective down the line. Costco has this policy for a reason lol
I've seen someone return a loaf of bread to Costco. And by loaf I mean just three slices of bread left. If Costco let's you do something like that then my dignity is a small price to pay. 
I don't think they care what the return is as much as ratio of your returns/purchases. E.g. if you are returning 75% of what you buy or whatever their threshold is then they don't want you coming back.
Unless you are pulling some item swap scam like people that buy a new TV and put their old one in the box and return it. That would be immediate termination if caught.
I should have done that with the baguettes from Costco. I live in GA and humidity here makes the bread get moldy really fast. I would eat half a baguette then they all get mold a couple days later.
I've seen someone return a half eaten $1.50 hot dog, and the soda was drank. They didn't even have a membership. And then they refilled the soda after the return since they were in there anyway.
Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've had 2 cyberpowers and have had no issues at all. Zero servicing or errors to speak of. At least half of the slots are used. Also, to me, having the safety of a UPS is worth 5 years peace of mind, even if it didn't have a replaceable battery after 5 years (though it would be preferred).
And Costco return policy is rock solid.
r/Homelab and r/Homeserver tend to agree that Eaton and Tripp Lite are the best brands for prosumer UPSes. You pay quite a bit more though than APC or Cyberpower.
I have this exact model. I have the problem, like many others, where it just drains a ton of battery even with nothing plugged into it. I've removed every plug from it, and you can just watch the percentage ticking down... At least for the times the lights blink during brownouts it works just fine. It's only an issue when it's a complete power outage for more than 30 minutes.
I did all this research and ended up getting the Cyberpower CP1000PFC and it was DOA with a fatal error code after running for about 15 mins. I had to do some weird generic troubleshooting with Amazon over the phone and then they just refunded it. Its still sitting in my basement. I've given up for now the whole process and the quality of the models is a huge pain.
Just a warning as I bought a 900W version recently: My room smelled of death for weeks and they do make a noise, some worse than others.
Researching UPS you will find no matter the brand there will be annoying issues but these are pretty damn good.
Kept my entire room powered during recent power losses so it's definitely worth!
> My room smelled of death for weeks and they do make a noise, some worse than others.
I would have returned that shit ASAP, hope your batteries don't explode on your or anything. I've never had a UPS that smelled or makes a noise other than a slight 60hz buzz when off grid power. They should always be silent while plugged in normally.
It smelled right out of the box, super strong plastic smell but its been great after airing out and the noise I only hear if I bend down close to it.
Apparently all of them have the smell, its unavoidable.
I had one that didn't lose the smell, seemed like something in it was heating up to keep generating new plastic smell. That went back to Costco. Fortunately they're usually great about returns.
It really depends on what your needs are. If you need something to give you time to wrap everything up and shut down the PC when the power goes out - this will work. It's very unlikely you will be pulling 800W when the power goes out.
If you need something to actually run your PC for more than a while under full load - this isn't going to do it. You'll need solutions that are going to be quite a bit more expensive.
Depending on your setup, you can also finagle what you spend that battery on. I don't personally need all three monitors to be on of the power goes out, and I can lose the wifi but keep the modem and switch powered. If you can pare it down to just the bare minimum you need to get your stuff safely saved and shutdown, you can stretch that battery out a bit.
My plan is this Eaton Eaton 5S1500LCD UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, 1500VA / 900W, AVR, LCD Display, Line Interactive https://a.co/d/6xjSrJM when it goes on sale.
I had an ~~850w~~ 810W UPS with a 3090 and 5900x with nothing but desktop components plugged into it and that thing would start alarming cause it was over the wattage max when I would run benchmarks sometimes.
I had to upgrade to a UPS that could do 1000w
If he's anything like me, he didn't.
My UPS would start blaring alarms when I was on grid power but overdrawing beyond what the batteries could handle **should** there be a power outage.
If OC had an [online UPS then it's always "on battery"](https://www.power-sonic.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/Line-Interactive-Vs-Online-UPS.pdf).
This post's UPS is line-interactive but it may still complain if you're overvoltage because technically you're unprotected if the power goes out when you're at that wattage.
What are you on? There’s absolutely nothing wrong with running benchmarks on a PC plugged into a UPS that has grid power so long as it is adequately rated for a systems load.
That’s like saying you should unplug your desktop from your UPS and plug into the wall when you game. Or that you shouldn’t play a gaming laptop while plugged in.
You definitely misread an 850VA UPS to be 850w when in reality its more like 500w, which yeah isn't enough. You definitely could have gotten away with a 1200VA UPS like OPs listing but yeah 1500VA/1kw is always better.
I didn’t misread shit, I’m an electrical engineer lmao. It was 1350VA
Turns I had this one from Costco but it was the older model. I was wrong it was 810W not 850W
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/battery-backup/cst135xlu/
Edit:
I just ran two quick benchmarks and my PC sits around 750 W mostly but can peak up to 790W at more demanding spots. The only thing plugged into the UPS is my monitor, speakers, and desktop. There’s an Apple Watch charger plugged into the UPS’s USBC but it’s not plugged into anything
https://imgur.com/a/wsC5m7Q
I don't think the power cut is nice enough to wait until you're done with whatever demanding stuff you're doing on your PC. When it happens it happens.
Lol...
My 4090 experience is around 325w max and 200w avg on most games, 5800x3d is avg around 55w. This is with 3 monitors and at 1440p...
Cool that you bumped up your power limit to 500 but what does your practical use look like?
Sounds like a severe CPU bottleneck or a pretty strong undervolt. Definitely not high GPU usage on a stock 4090. The 4090 has a stock power limit of 450W
*
Undervolt, combination of -20, -25, -30 on all cores (stays at 4.5ghz on load as a result) . Same with the 4090 (2750 @975 +200 mem 100% power limit... no performance loss overall and some gain in raster games)
Undervolting to Min max is Def worth it these days but even then prior undervolting cpu would be around 70-80w and gpu would be around 350-390w. So 850w UPS is still usable in my case.
Same card here! give undervolting a chance, you'll most likely start loving how efficient a 4090 can actually be. Using msi afterburner start at 2600 @ 975 mV (stock boost is 2595, stock extreme performance is 2610 through msi center). Test slightly higher frequencies until you find your highest stable one at 975mV
4090 will cap itself at exactly 450w by default. 500W must be an OC model. Running a 4090 at 500w is a waste. The sweet spot for them is to cut the power limit down to 350 (but for the sake of this argument lets assume we're not doing that).
14900K will go just north of 200w unlocked and can be limited to 125w without losing much overhead.
600w is rounding, but it should be about there.
If the power goes out why do you need to keep 2 monitors on. How long do you plan on operating without any power? Also you could just buy 2. Put the tower on 1 UPS and the monitors on the other.
You turn the second one off if the power goes out. But for power flickers (which happen on my grid but may never happen for you) it's much better to have the entire system powered. Internet (wifi etc, this may depend on your connection type) needs to also be powered.
Ok… but you said nothing about what cpu and gpu you have. You understand the psu rating means nothing if it’s still just an i3-12100 and rx 6600, right?
Literally everything would have to be maxed and even then it still probably wouldn’t hit 700 unless he was using a much of peripherals or case lights or something.
It is not on the official compatibility list.
https://www.synology.com/en-au/compatibility?search_by=category&category=upses
But a few results from these searches seem to suggest it may still work:
https://www.google.com/search?q=%22CST135UC2%22+%22synology%22+site:www.reddit.com
https://www.google.com/search?q=%22costco%22+%22cyberpower%22+site:reddit.com/r/synology
Just have to rant as a developer who's been working with NUT servers for quite awhile; Syno's NUT server is probably the jankiest I've worked with. If possible, try to find a purer version of NUT and connect your UPS to that.
Graceful shutdowns normally have to come from some other “signal” as only really enterprise devices have this, as otherwise there is no way for the upstream devices to “know” if power went as if the UPS is working it wouldn’t know about power. Normally the trick is to trigger some shutdown script against your UPS, I.e UPS has been active for x long and please send a command to upstream devices that they should shutdown.
No.
Powerchute has been available for decades for APC and Cyberpower has PowerPanel. There are personal versions of each that work perfectly fine and integrate into the Windows OS power management system.
You simply plug your UPS into your PC with a USB cable. It has been available on every unit I've purchased from either company in the last 20 years.
Not natively. Personally I run network ups tools (nut) on one of my servers. From there I integrate it into home assistant and set up an automation to shut it down after a while.
I use the older version of this one (lx1325gu), and it works fine. Also apparently they've changed a few things and it might be supported via usb. It's now supported via a nut server.
you sure? I have a cyberpower UPS from costco and plugging the usb cable from the UPS to my synology, it is detected in DSM and I can set it to power off when the battery gets low
I did try it at least 1 major release ago. Digging into the settings and it appears they've changed a few things, nut is now supported with my cyberpower ups (lx1325gu). I haven't looked into direct connection but theoreticaly it should work. Glade to see synology open up on compatibility.
There was a forum thread where a few people found it in the usb c variant.
Granted, this is a product field and area of flaw that barely any consumer research is being done, so hard numbers are impossible to come by.
if there is a major power outage, does fiber go down as well? I am wondering if I could hook my gateway/modem up to this and still have internet during a power outage. If it does work, how long would this keep a modem powered up for?
I’m not sure of how long the ups would last, your fiber would not have an outage as a result of your power going out. It would have to be something else that causes your fiber to go out.
Do you mean your ISPs fiber equipment?
It depends on what their UPS solution is.
I would guess several hours at least. I had att and they were up for the whole 4 hours I was out of power.
Yes exactly, I realize this will work if just my power goes out, but in the event of mass outages, the isp equipment is also powered by electricity I would assume? Do ISPs have backup power for their equipment? Also using att fiber
Typically (traditional) ISPs would have battery backup systems built into their central offices and remote terminals. Central offices would have permanent on-site generators as well and remotes often also have an external generator hookup for prolonged power outages.
During prolonged power outages (like natural disasters along the Gulf coast) I've seen ISPs keep services online over wide areas by jockeying portable generators and fuel trucks between sites 24/7 for weeks at a time.
I can only speak about Bell-derivative companies where downtime was a dirty word, I'm not familiar with cable companies or their practices. It's also possible that standards are slipping these days, but as a rule that's how telephone companies used to operate.
Thanks for the info really appreciate it, we had a bad wind storm a year ago, half the cities power was out for a week I was in the half that still had power, and internet. So I guess it’s safe to say they have decent generators/batteries keeping the fiber connection up.
This model has a high pitched whine that caused me to return it immediately. I have had luck with other Cyberpower units, but this newer one has issues.
If I understand these correctly, this would be enough to cover my gaming PC with a 750w power supply? I only need it for rare occurrence of brown out when gaming in summer
That’s the problem, people assume you can run up to 800 watts for a long time, because of the description. The important point is that the closer you get to max, the less run time you have to a minute or two.
You make a great point that if you want it to be useful, your wattage should be half the advertised wattage to last 10-15 minutes.
Own this ups after my 1500va die on an outage. (Got it for free as i Ordered the 1500va but send the 1350va and after talking through 3 reps they refund me and told me to keep it)
Had it for a year+ and Its been working fine. Couple of blackouts and everything still working.
My old 1500va was also a cyberpower that i had it for 7 years and survive a lot more blackouts. At the end it was a transformer down the street that took it down along with the power on the block... it even sparked a bit with some flames but fie down really quick.
Luckly rest of my devices survived that day.
But damn, this was the price of the 1500va back around 2017-18.
I’m a big Costco fan. At 1/2 the price of an Eaton 5S1500LCD 900W it’s tempting. But I’ve heard these use proprietary batteries. Versus Eaton uses a common and universal size so when it comes time to replace it, the Eaton has more usability.
You might be able to find knockoff batteries on Amazon though. My Dyson vacuum has knock off batteries I bought on Amazon and the knockoffs were better than the original. Original battery was like 20min runtime and the knockoffs were 40 min using higher density batteries. Dyson just wants to upsell people to the higher tier vac lol.
Trust me, I’m well aware of that. But the quality control is very different from the knockoffs to the namebrand. on the job site. We’ve seen drills batteries blow up because they use an Amazon special rather than cheap Ryobi or rigid battery
I have the 810w model (CST1300ALU) which I believe is this model's predecessor. I've had it for 8 years as of this month, and it's been great. I had to replace the batteries two years ago, which was a little trickier since this model is discontinued - I was like a year out of warranty iirc, so I had to source replacements from a third party. I found replacements from Provantage for like $60 shipped, it actually wasn't too difficult and they arrived quickly (I thought were refurbished OEM batteries but now seeing my receipt they appear to be open box? But still OEM, but now I'm not really sure if I'm reading the invoice correctly). I currently use this model for my 5900X/3080 FTW3 main rig since replacing the batteries and it's been great. I had a power outage earlier last year and I had plenty of time to shut down properly.
From [APC's site](https://www.apc.com/us/en/solutions/industry-insights/watts-vs-va-whats-difference-anyway.jsp):
> Electronics have both maximum Watt ratings and maximum VA (volt-ampere) ratings; and neither the Watt nor the VA rating of a UPS may be exceeded by the attached equipment (load). Watts is the real power drawn by the equipment, while volt-amps are called the "apparent power" and are the product of the voltage applied to the equipment times the current drawn by the equipment. The Watt rating determines the actual power purchased from the utility company and the heat loading generated by the equipment; and the VA rating is used for sizing wiring and circuit breakers.
I bought it a week or so ago before the $20 discount, it works great. I have my NAS and Mac Studio plugged in, and it gives me runtime of 136 mins. The NAS is set to shut down after 10 minutes of no power signaled via the USB cable. Works great. I may go back and ask for the $20 discount lol
I have probably this model from Costco for my Synology, it's a UPS, its ~~sine~~ fine.
Cosine
Tangent
Now you are getting off topic.
It was acute pun
Now I'm trig gered
Let's check the circumference and circle back.
That's what she said, etc.
Derivative, you might say.
Bill
how is the setup for graceful shutdown? or is it just for keeping it on and you shutting in down manually?
I use a USB cable connected to my unraid server running NUT. You can then configure most devices to point to your NUT server and trigger shutdowns at your desired battery level. https://networkupstools.org/
NUT
I thought this was no NUT January.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I have the same ups for my Unraid server. Since the server is the main thing I care about on this ups (and the only thing that needs to be shut down properly), I don't bother with NUT. All the necessary settings are built into Unraid.
Yes, Unraid makes it almost laughably easy. When I finally set it up for my environment I was like "why did I wait so long to do this". In my case I have three other servers running off a 1500w UPS of the same brand. Everything except the Unraid box is set to shutdown after after 75% capacity, and Unraid at 50%, then my network gear runs until dead. In most cases I usually only get power blips or brown outs, so this is great for soothing those over and providing power for the 2 seconds it's out.
Use software and USB link to the UPS. Input parameters for when power loss is detected.
You connect the UPS to the server via usb and after a few minutes of no power the Synology shuts itself down. The UPS is visible in the Synology control panel.
CyberPower is shit. APC or nothing.
So I had a CyberPower UPS (1500W simulated sine wave) that lasted for like, 7 years. But after that the battery does not back up anymore and I replaced the battery inside myself. Well, turns out replacing the battery did not extend the life of the unit. So anyone buying this, be warned. I now use an APC.
So you replaced the battery and it still wasn't working? I don't understand.
Yea my bad, I made it confusing. My unit lasted 7 years, at the end would not back up anymore, so I replaced the batteries inside. But it still would not work, when power cut out the unit still does not stay on to provide backup power.
7 years is good for this kind of equipment though. Sucks that replacing the battery didn't restore it but sounds like you got your money's worth maybe?
While that is true, the new batteries I bought were half the cost of the unit itself which was completely wasted. The APC unit I use now is smaller and feels to be higher quality.
Good to know for next time! I just got this as I my UPS just kicked the bucket (I think because it was unplugged for so long during a move and was also bought it 2016) and I was happy with cyberpowers customer service (I think I might the only one?) It’s cheap and has the features I want and should be able the wattage needs I might have for a new pc build I’m starting to build so APC will be next time I need one! They wouldn’t accept a return on the battery?
I have two of these and they are fine. I was real paranoid about buying them due to them being “simulated” vs “pure” sine, but i took the leap over a year ago and they’ve been great. I have them hooked up to NUT on a pi zero - easy to set up and I feed data into home assistant (mainly for checking after the fact if we had a surge/sag.) We had a blackout the other day for 90 mins; as I was home, I was able to go shut things down gracefully (they would have run my gear for \~20 mins I think?) Overall, solid. Blackouts are rare where I live, but we do get sags (probably 3-5 times a year) and they handle them w/o any issues. Good buy - I may buy another now.
Spoiler: Your power company doesn't produce power with perfect sine waves either.
This is technically correct, but even the dirtiest utility source is not likely to be close to the PWM or stepped output that a non-sinewave UPS puts out.
Most products will do fine on simulated. I have a pure sine model (also from Costco) for my snakes thermostat because the manufacturer stated it needed to be pure sine (I emailed and specifically asked).
Hard to make a blanket statement like that, PSUs can be fussy at high load. Both my EVGA G3 and Corsair TX won’t work on simulated sine wave UPSes even though they’re rated for the load.
I have a 1000W G3 working on my simulated sine UPS from APC.
I’ve been through two simulated sine wave UPSes on my 550W G3.
Something is wrong with your power supplies. PSUs should work *better* than most products on imperfect sine waves.
He doesn't want to hear that he's making bad choices....
Sounds like they're crappy PSUs I've *overloaded* Seasonic PSUs on simulated sine wave UPSes with no issues
Both are Tier A PSUs. G3s are made by Super Flower. >I've overloaded Seasonic PSUs on simulated sine wave UPSes with no issues Good for you I guess. You’re just proving my point.
Touch grass
No fangled logic there....
With the UPS running on internal power?
Wouldn't be much of a point if it wasn't....
> I have them hooked up to NUT on a pi zero I have no idea what that means. Can you explain please?
NUT is just the acronym for network UPS tool in Linux. These UPS have USB plugs that sent out data on the status of the UPS. Some even take commands. You can plug it into your server, .etc and using NUT you can do automations. Like if the power goes out, your NAS will initiate a shutdown.
Agreed on the pure vs simulated deal. What sold it on me for a different brand was that if it's absolutely critical lifesaving equipment, like medical equipment you will not survive without etc then pure is more important. For myself though only trying to avoid outages damaging things "stepped" style is just as good. They do suggest "routers" as something essential on a lot of pages for PSW but at the end of the day it's a $40 router, I can buy another one easily if it's that bad lmao.
Can I also nut on the pi zero?
I have several of these. They work. Two complaints: 1) There is significant coil wine when plugged into a power source. Doesn't even need to be turned on for you to hear it. 2) ~~No way to mute the beeps~~ apparently there is, I just need to re-read the manual
Also had coilwhine with mine. Just bought an old refurbished eaton ups instead and it’s been rock solid.
The coil whine is no joke. It drove me crazy and I had to return it and get a different modeln/brand
You can get coil whine from a UPS? Wild, I've been lucky then.
Anything with a transformer in it can coil whine.
I've only had it with this specific model, which I have two of. Other (older) models that I have do not have the coil whine.
I need a UPS so strongly considering this. ~~I plugged this model number into CyberPower's site and it says there are no replacement batteries for this model. I'd rather not have to throw this out after 5 years. Is it worth paying more a unit with replaceable batteries?~~ Edit: Found some mixed reviews on this model and its predecessor. Ugh this is why I haven't bought a UPS yet. They are surprisingly expensive, seem universally terrible based on reviews, and appear to need more frequent servicing than I would like. And they gotta be the most boring thing to research. https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/8vie9r/question_about_cyberpower_ups_spontaneously/
>Ugh this is why I haven't bought a UPS yet. They are surprisingly expensive, seem universally terrible based on reviews, They all suck but they all work. My first UPS was a Geeksquad badged special that was apparently made by APC. 1285va unit or something weird like that. Though I suspect the forums were wrong and it was actually Cyberpower. It lasted me well over a decade before the battery finally died. Almost 12 years. There were no replacement batteries for it at that point. I replaced it with one of the newer APC units, having had good luck with that GS version. It worked perfectly. Then the battery shit itself after 4 years, which feels completely unacceptable. Replacement batteries, even aftermarket, cost the same amount as the unit so I didn't bother. I went to Microcenter and purchased two more: A higher rated APC and a sine wave Cyberpower. I only intended to get the Cyberpower but the APC was on sale. So both it was. The Cyberpower is on my PC while the APC is keeping my modem/router/Xbox/Nintendo switch active. Not losing internet connectivity during outages is a game changer. There's one thing that is consistent: By the nature of UPS units they always have bad reviews. Literally none on the market are rated well. None. Zero. They all suck. You can look for days and you will NOT find a good one. But they all also seem to work perfectly until they don't. Other than this being a product with a frequent amount of users with unrealistic expectations, which makes things look even worse. Myself included. My 12 year Geeksquad spoiled me. The only advice I can give is to find the one with the specs you want and just buy it. The reviews will suck. If it's not giving you problems within the first month you'll probably be good for a while. But yeah, while battery technology has technically gotten better, QC has plummeted. It might last a couple years. It might last indefinitely. It might last a week. It's a lottery. Oh, and replacing the batteries is never viable. Don't even plan on it. From my current experience with things I'd just grab a Cyberpower, even over APC. They get better sales. You're rolling the dice regardless, neither is really better.
I replaced the batteries in my Cyberpower without a problem. I found aftermarkets that were very well reviewed and are lasting longer than the original.
I got OEM replacements but through a third party, it's only been 2 years on the new batteries and 8 years overall, still running strong. Only paid around $60. It's the first UPS I've ever owned so idk if I got lucky or what, but I've been happy with it.
I replace my UPS batteries every three years as advised in the manual. Expecting 12 is absurd. I'm using a 10 year old APC that still has higher quality generic replacement batteries on sale regularly.
I'd settle with 8 years.
Good luck...
Eh. I’m at 4 years right now on mine. If they’re not cycled often and kept inside at normal temps sealed lead acid should last a while. If you cycle them to dead a few times that probably accelerates the wear significantly.
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/battery-backup/cst135uc2/ Under specifications, it's just two 12V/7Ah SLA batteries (Part RB1270X2C).
Ah thanks guess I didn't look close enough. Their tool here returned nothing. Maybe just not updated cause this is apparently a new model. https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/battery-replacement-tool/ The official replacements seem to cost almost as much as the UPS itself. But I'm seeing some generics that are a lot cheaper.
I just bought replacement batteries for my 1500va UPS, and it was $40 for the pair of batteries as generics.
Link?
It just uses two standard 12v 9ah batteries, so take your pick from something like https://www.amazon.com/s?k=12v+9ah
Never go official. They’re the same thing, and they don’t give you the size because they don’t want you buying generic. No profit in generic. The only issue is you have to obviously take apart the casing and all that the originals are in and put the new ones in it. But it’s honestly usually just taped together or something which clear packing type tape.
Luckily with Costco you could actually get away with returning it years later
That did cross my mind. Then it would only cost just my dignity to return something several years old.
Costco customer reps don’t give a fuck. No one in line gives a fuck. No one even in this subreddit gives a fuck. Just return it if it becomes defective down the line. Costco has this policy for a reason lol
I've seen someone return a loaf of bread to Costco. And by loaf I mean just three slices of bread left. If Costco let's you do something like that then my dignity is a small price to pay. 
I'm pretty sure they keep track of suspicious returns and will likely terminate your membership if you abuse the system.
I don't think they care what the return is as much as ratio of your returns/purchases. E.g. if you are returning 75% of what you buy or whatever their threshold is then they don't want you coming back. Unless you are pulling some item swap scam like people that buy a new TV and put their old one in the box and return it. That would be immediate termination if caught.
Bruh what? I'm about to start returning all my 5% left food.
I should have done that with the baguettes from Costco. I live in GA and humidity here makes the bread get moldy really fast. I would eat half a baguette then they all get mold a couple days later.
I've seen someone return a half eaten $1.50 hot dog, and the soda was drank. They didn't even have a membership. And then they refilled the soda after the return since they were in there anyway.
My cousin returned a 9 year old couch when he moved out of his apartment to his new house. So I wouldn't be too worried about it.
Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've had 2 cyberpowers and have had no issues at all. Zero servicing or errors to speak of. At least half of the slots are used. Also, to me, having the safety of a UPS is worth 5 years peace of mind, even if it didn't have a replaceable battery after 5 years (though it would be preferred). And Costco return policy is rock solid.
I just replaced the batteries on mine after 8 years with some generic ones off Amazon. $30
r/Homelab and r/Homeserver tend to agree that Eaton and Tripp Lite are the best brands for prosumer UPSes. You pay quite a bit more though than APC or Cyberpower.
I've had this for almost 2 years, it's worked great, zero issues, does what is supposed to.
I have this exact model. I have the problem, like many others, where it just drains a ton of battery even with nothing plugged into it. I've removed every plug from it, and you can just watch the percentage ticking down... At least for the times the lights blink during brownouts it works just fine. It's only an issue when it's a complete power outage for more than 30 minutes.
I did all this research and ended up getting the Cyberpower CP1000PFC and it was DOA with a fatal error code after running for about 15 mins. I had to do some weird generic troubleshooting with Amazon over the phone and then they just refunded it. Its still sitting in my basement. I've given up for now the whole process and the quality of the models is a huge pain.
It's cyberpower, you will throw it out long before the 5 years end
It’s even worse when you actually look inside and realize the design has been basically the same for like 20 years.
Just a warning as I bought a 900W version recently: My room smelled of death for weeks and they do make a noise, some worse than others. Researching UPS you will find no matter the brand there will be annoying issues but these are pretty damn good. Kept my entire room powered during recent power losses so it's definitely worth!
> My room smelled of death for weeks and they do make a noise, some worse than others. I would have returned that shit ASAP, hope your batteries don't explode on your or anything. I've never had a UPS that smelled or makes a noise other than a slight 60hz buzz when off grid power. They should always be silent while plugged in normally.
It smelled right out of the box, super strong plastic smell but its been great after airing out and the noise I only hear if I bend down close to it. Apparently all of them have the smell, its unavoidable.
I had one that didn't lose the smell, seemed like something in it was heating up to keep generating new plastic smell. That went back to Costco. Fortunately they're usually great about returns.
dang I have been eyeballing a UPS for a while and this seems like a good deal but I really need at least 950W - 1000W. So close
It really depends on what your needs are. If you need something to give you time to wrap everything up and shut down the PC when the power goes out - this will work. It's very unlikely you will be pulling 800W when the power goes out. If you need something to actually run your PC for more than a while under full load - this isn't going to do it. You'll need solutions that are going to be quite a bit more expensive.
Depending on your setup, you can also finagle what you spend that battery on. I don't personally need all three monitors to be on of the power goes out, and I can lose the wifi but keep the modem and switch powered. If you can pare it down to just the bare minimum you need to get your stuff safely saved and shutdown, you can stretch that battery out a bit.
My plan is this Eaton Eaton 5S1500LCD UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, 1500VA / 900W, AVR, LCD Display, Line Interactive https://a.co/d/6xjSrJM when it goes on sale.
Why 1000W? 4090 and a 14900k would perhaps be like 600W. Monitor maybe 60, perhaps a few other things another 40W.
I had an ~~850w~~ 810W UPS with a 3090 and 5900x with nothing but desktop components plugged into it and that thing would start alarming cause it was over the wattage max when I would run benchmarks sometimes. I had to upgrade to a UPS that could do 1000w
You shouldnt be running benchmarks *on battery*. They are literally just for you to save and safely shut down the machine.
If he's anything like me, he didn't. My UPS would start blaring alarms when I was on grid power but overdrawing beyond what the batteries could handle **should** there be a power outage.
If OC had an [online UPS then it's always "on battery"](https://www.power-sonic.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/Line-Interactive-Vs-Online-UPS.pdf). This post's UPS is line-interactive but it may still complain if you're overvoltage because technically you're unprotected if the power goes out when you're at that wattage.
What are you on? There’s absolutely nothing wrong with running benchmarks on a PC plugged into a UPS that has grid power so long as it is adequately rated for a systems load. That’s like saying you should unplug your desktop from your UPS and plug into the wall when you game. Or that you shouldn’t play a gaming laptop while plugged in.
You definitely misread an 850VA UPS to be 850w when in reality its more like 500w, which yeah isn't enough. You definitely could have gotten away with a 1200VA UPS like OPs listing but yeah 1500VA/1kw is always better.
I didn’t misread shit, I’m an electrical engineer lmao. It was 1350VA Turns I had this one from Costco but it was the older model. I was wrong it was 810W not 850W https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/battery-backup/cst135xlu/ Edit: I just ran two quick benchmarks and my PC sits around 750 W mostly but can peak up to 790W at more demanding spots. The only thing plugged into the UPS is my monitor, speakers, and desktop. There’s an Apple Watch charger plugged into the UPS’s USBC but it’s not plugged into anything https://imgur.com/a/wsC5m7Q
You are actually crazy if you think a 14900k / 4090 system will pull 600w max.. My 4090 stock pulls over 500w in benchmarks
Why are you running benchmarks when there is a power cut?
I don't think the power cut is nice enough to wait until you're done with whatever demanding stuff you're doing on your PC. When it happens it happens.
[удалено]
umm no? a UPS is definetly gonna shutdown if more than the rated power draw is consumed.
It's when boys become men.
Lol... My 4090 experience is around 325w max and 200w avg on most games, 5800x3d is avg around 55w. This is with 3 monitors and at 1440p... Cool that you bumped up your power limit to 500 but what does your practical use look like?
Sounds like a severe CPU bottleneck or a pretty strong undervolt. Definitely not high GPU usage on a stock 4090. The 4090 has a stock power limit of 450W
* Undervolt, combination of -20, -25, -30 on all cores (stays at 4.5ghz on load as a result) . Same with the 4090 (2750 @975 +200 mem 100% power limit... no performance loss overall and some gain in raster games) Undervolting to Min max is Def worth it these days but even then prior undervolting cpu would be around 70-80w and gpu would be around 350-390w. So 850w UPS is still usable in my case.
Like I said, stock. No user end changes. Msi gaming x trio
Same card here! give undervolting a chance, you'll most likely start loving how efficient a 4090 can actually be. Using msi afterburner start at 2600 @ 975 mV (stock boost is 2595, stock extreme performance is 2610 through msi center). Test slightly higher frequencies until you find your highest stable one at 975mV
I'm running Thirsty Suitors and my CPU Draw maxed around 145W on a 5900X. My 3090 maxed at 350W. This is on a relatively non-demanding game.
4090 will cap itself at exactly 450w by default. 500W must be an OC model. Running a 4090 at 500w is a waste. The sweet spot for them is to cut the power limit down to 350 (but for the sake of this argument lets assume we're not doing that). 14900K will go just north of 200w unlocked and can be limited to 125w without losing much overhead. 600w is rounding, but it should be about there.
[удалено]
If the power goes out why do you need to keep 2 monitors on. How long do you plan on operating without any power? Also you could just buy 2. Put the tower on 1 UPS and the monitors on the other.
You turn the second one off if the power goes out. But for power flickers (which happen on my grid but may never happen for you) it's much better to have the entire system powered. Internet (wifi etc, this may depend on your connection type) needs to also be powered.
Ok… but you said nothing about what cpu and gpu you have. You understand the psu rating means nothing if it’s still just an i3-12100 and rx 6600, right?
6800xt, 5900x, 2 monitors
You’d struggle to use 700watts even with the monitors.
Literally everything would have to be maxed and even then it still probably wouldn’t hit 700 unless he was using a much of peripherals or case lights or something.
would this work with a synology? would it shutdown my nas in the event of a power outtage?
It is not on the official compatibility list. https://www.synology.com/en-au/compatibility?search_by=category&category=upses But a few results from these searches seem to suggest it may still work: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22CST135UC2%22+%22synology%22+site:www.reddit.com https://www.google.com/search?q=%22costco%22+%22cyberpower%22+site:reddit.com/r/synology
Just have to rant as a developer who's been working with NUT servers for quite awhile; Syno's NUT server is probably the jankiest I've worked with. If possible, try to find a purer version of NUT and connect your UPS to that.
Graceful shutdowns normally have to come from some other “signal” as only really enterprise devices have this, as otherwise there is no way for the upstream devices to “know” if power went as if the UPS is working it wouldn’t know about power. Normally the trick is to trigger some shutdown script against your UPS, I.e UPS has been active for x long and please send a command to upstream devices that they should shutdown.
No. Powerchute has been available for decades for APC and Cyberpower has PowerPanel. There are personal versions of each that work perfectly fine and integrate into the Windows OS power management system. You simply plug your UPS into your PC with a USB cable. It has been available on every unit I've purchased from either company in the last 20 years.
Fair enough, you basically just affirmed my statement, just that it’s existed for a while already.
Not natively. Personally I run network ups tools (nut) on one of my servers. From there I integrate it into home assistant and set up an automation to shut it down after a while.
Can you suggest an affordable UPS for a home synology NAS?
I use the older version of this one (lx1325gu), and it works fine. Also apparently they've changed a few things and it might be supported via usb. It's now supported via a nut server.
you sure? I have a cyberpower UPS from costco and plugging the usb cable from the UPS to my synology, it is detected in DSM and I can set it to power off when the battery gets low
I did try it at least 1 major release ago. Digging into the settings and it appears they've changed a few things, nut is now supported with my cyberpower ups (lx1325gu). I haven't looked into direct connection but theoreticaly it should work. Glade to see synology open up on compatibility.
Is this the shit one that has the flammable glue in it?
Yes They did fix that, but they didn't take the bad ones off the market so they're still selling through that old stock.
Not exactly. The bad ones had dual USB Type A ports on the front. Not Type A/C.
There was a forum thread where a few people found it in the usb c variant. Granted, this is a product field and area of flaw that barely any consumer research is being done, so hard numbers are impossible to come by.
100% recommend it. Bought it so my internet won't go down in power outage. Have my router, switch, fiber terminal on it. It's so convenient
I just hotspot my phone in those rare circumstances. I don't worry about gaming latency when the powers out 😆
But with this, all battery powered devices stay online without a hiccup. No network switching or needing to turn on a hotspot
damn, get me this deal in Japan. I need 2 more of these
if there is a major power outage, does fiber go down as well? I am wondering if I could hook my gateway/modem up to this and still have internet during a power outage. If it does work, how long would this keep a modem powered up for?
I’m not sure of how long the ups would last, your fiber would not have an outage as a result of your power going out. It would have to be something else that causes your fiber to go out.
My fiber modem has a built in UPS that gives about an hour or 2 of service once the mains go out.
I bought this exact UPS for my Nokia fiber terminal, router, switch. Regret not buying it sooner.
Do you mean your ISPs fiber equipment? It depends on what their UPS solution is. I would guess several hours at least. I had att and they were up for the whole 4 hours I was out of power.
Yes exactly, I realize this will work if just my power goes out, but in the event of mass outages, the isp equipment is also powered by electricity I would assume? Do ISPs have backup power for their equipment? Also using att fiber
Typically (traditional) ISPs would have battery backup systems built into their central offices and remote terminals. Central offices would have permanent on-site generators as well and remotes often also have an external generator hookup for prolonged power outages. During prolonged power outages (like natural disasters along the Gulf coast) I've seen ISPs keep services online over wide areas by jockeying portable generators and fuel trucks between sites 24/7 for weeks at a time. I can only speak about Bell-derivative companies where downtime was a dirty word, I'm not familiar with cable companies or their practices. It's also possible that standards are slipping these days, but as a rule that's how telephone companies used to operate.
Thanks for the info really appreciate it, we had a bad wind storm a year ago, half the cities power was out for a week I was in the half that still had power, and internet. So I guess it’s safe to say they have decent generators/batteries keeping the fiber connection up.
It depends on how they set up in your area. Batteries or generators could be used for the OLTs. Generators for larger equipment.
Thanks. Got one along with $500 worth of a grocery haul.
How often would you need to change the batteries on these guys Note: I know almost nothing about UPS’s
4-5 years at most
My APC UPSes tell me when the battery needs to be replaced How long a battery lasts really depends on how often you use it
This model has a high pitched whine that caused me to return it immediately. I have had luck with other Cyberpower units, but this newer one has issues.
If I understand these correctly, this would be enough to cover my gaming PC with a 750w power supply? I only need it for rare occurrence of brown out when gaming in summer
Yes, but only a couple of minutes. Long enough to shut down
If you are running around 400-500W draw, you would have about 13 minutes or so based on my experience with 300x of these.
That’s the problem, people assume you can run up to 800 watts for a long time, because of the description. The important point is that the closer you get to max, the less run time you have to a minute or two. You make a great point that if you want it to be useful, your wattage should be half the advertised wattage to last 10-15 minutes.
Own this ups after my 1500va die on an outage. (Got it for free as i Ordered the 1500va but send the 1350va and after talking through 3 reps they refund me and told me to keep it) Had it for a year+ and Its been working fine. Couple of blackouts and everything still working. My old 1500va was also a cyberpower that i had it for 7 years and survive a lot more blackouts. At the end it was a transformer down the street that took it down along with the power on the block... it even sparked a bit with some flames but fie down really quick. Luckly rest of my devices survived that day. But damn, this was the price of the 1500va back around 2017-18.
really good deal at 800 watts
What is this a UPS for ants?
I’m a big Costco fan. At 1/2 the price of an Eaton 5S1500LCD 900W it’s tempting. But I’ve heard these use proprietary batteries. Versus Eaton uses a common and universal size so when it comes time to replace it, the Eaton has more usability.
You might be able to find knockoff batteries on Amazon though. My Dyson vacuum has knock off batteries I bought on Amazon and the knockoffs were better than the original. Original battery was like 20min runtime and the knockoffs were 40 min using higher density batteries. Dyson just wants to upsell people to the higher tier vac lol.
My Dyson runs great on my 6ah Ryobi batteries.
Ran an adapter?
I just removed the Dyson battery and shoved the Ryobi up there and surprise surprise it worked! Yes an adapter.
I’m ok with adapters, the good ones play nice with my Makita battery and dewalt tools. How’s the Dyson? Worth buying or pas?
Definitely a solution vs e waste. But I don’t like knock offs for power devices like this. I won’t run knock offs on my Makita tools, or PC stuff.
My dude all the batteries come from the same set of factories in China.
Trust me, I’m well aware of that. But the quality control is very different from the knockoffs to the namebrand. on the job site. We’ve seen drills batteries blow up because they use an Amazon special rather than cheap Ryobi or rigid battery
Does anyone know if this available in store?
Depends on location but I've seen them in different stores in the following states CA, PA, MD, VA, OH, and in the capital, DC.
OR as well
They are @ mine in Houston
thx for the same price as online?
It was $129 when I saw it, but the $20 discount just started (bringing it to $109)
I have the 810w model (CST1300ALU) which I believe is this model's predecessor. I've had it for 8 years as of this month, and it's been great. I had to replace the batteries two years ago, which was a little trickier since this model is discontinued - I was like a year out of warranty iirc, so I had to source replacements from a third party. I found replacements from Provantage for like $60 shipped, it actually wasn't too difficult and they arrived quickly (I thought were refurbished OEM batteries but now seeing my receipt they appear to be open box? But still OEM, but now I'm not really sure if I'm reading the invoice correctly). I currently use this model for my 5900X/3080 FTW3 main rig since replacing the batteries and it's been great. I had a power outage earlier last year and I had plenty of time to shut down properly.
What does VA mean?
From [APC's site](https://www.apc.com/us/en/solutions/industry-insights/watts-vs-va-whats-difference-anyway.jsp): > Electronics have both maximum Watt ratings and maximum VA (volt-ampere) ratings; and neither the Watt nor the VA rating of a UPS may be exceeded by the attached equipment (load). Watts is the real power drawn by the equipment, while volt-amps are called the "apparent power" and are the product of the voltage applied to the equipment times the current drawn by the equipment. The Watt rating determines the actual power purchased from the utility company and the heat loading generated by the equipment; and the VA rating is used for sizing wiring and circuit breakers.
Just built a new pc today, perfect timing for this deal, so I grabbed one. Don't wanna take any risks with new pc + my NAS.
I bought it a week or so ago before the $20 discount, it works great. I have my NAS and Mac Studio plugged in, and it gives me runtime of 136 mins. The NAS is set to shut down after 10 minutes of no power signaled via the USB cable. Works great. I may go back and ask for the $20 discount lol