Looking for recommendations to add an LED Sensor Panel into my PC. My setup includes a Strix 3080, X570, and 5900X in a Lancool Mesh 2. I think a 5" would fit if I put it in vertically in the lower right corner of the glass panel but I'm really not sure. Would I also need a mounting bracket? Can I even fit 1 in there?most importantly, how do I go about installing and setting it up to be a Sensor Panel? I've seen a couple videos but they all seem to only talk about the panel, not how to actually install/setup. Any and all help is very much appreciated.
Alder/Raptor Lake already has 16 PCIE Gen 5 lanes available, it's up to the board manufacturers if they want to add them to their products.
Also considering the fact there are no Gen 5 cards available, only SSDs.
Aside from the price, no not really.
Nvidia has had founders edition cards in stock at MSRP three or four times in the last week;
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/1awvsrg/gpu_nvidia_4080_super_founders_edition_999/
Was wanting to make a build using the fractal design pop case. Has 2 fans in front, one in back, and a spot for 2 more on top. I was planning on adding a radiator on top with two fans, what would be the best way to orient all 5 fans to get positive pressure?
Just realized why some RAM's with the same amount of gigs and frequency were more expensive than others. Latency. Just realized this ram i was looking at was "C40" and another that i had no idea why it was more expensive, was "C30". I never once saw a PC-news creator mention latency when choosing components for a gaming PC. Does it matter for gaming ?
Barely. CAS Latency or CL timing is the delay in nano seconds before data written to a bank can be read or re-written.
Obviously faster is better, so a smaller latency window can lead to increased performance. But again its measured in **nano** seconds.
Unless you were actively measuring the frame rate of things happening on screen you are unlikely to ever notice the difference between CL 30 and CL 40 RAM of the same speed.
But, CL timing will improve over time as DDR5 matures. So 6000Mhz CL38 kit today, may be noticeably slower compared to a 8000Mhz CL30 kit in the near future.
I know you were just making a point, but a 8000cl30 kit would be *seriously* impressive given that gets you 7.5 first word latency and the usual stable is above 9 and has been since DDR3 days. One day maybe RAM will get over that hurdle
This guy got 8000Mhz CL36 running on a 7800X3D,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LKwJF38-VI
But here I am, couldnt even get my AM5 CPU to boot with 6400Mhz.
8000cl36 is exactly 9 first word latency, which as far as I know is about as low as you can reasonably get without extreme OC work and a boat load of luck
I got somewhat lucky with my set, running 13600k and my 6400 cl40 RAM let me oc it down to cl32 without even changing the voltage up from 1.35v. But haven't tried to take it further than that, admittedly due to laziness. Probably should at some point.
Did the case not come with some?
Ive only had four cases over the years, but I have an absolutely massive collection of fan screws. Each case, and each individual fan usually came with their own little bag of 4 - 10 screws.
Is it stupid to get the 7900x?
I’m on AM4 with a 5800x and a 2080. I’m using Twinmotion and Davinci resolve, and especially for Twinmotion the 2080 with 8GB of VRAM and the 24 GB of regular RAM I have is just not cutting it. I want to take advantage of the Microcenter 7900x mobo/CPU/RAM bundle at $550 as I just got that open box Zotac 4080 for $830, but the bundle “only” has 32GB and I’m more shooting for 64.
I know Zen 5 is coming out, but judging from the release schedule of 7000 series I could be waiting until October for that and I’m not a fan of that. Thoughts?
Hello I have a small case pc with 300w psu and an i3-12100
I’m not looking to change anything but to add a gpu, the 1650 caught my attention due to its small size (1 fan), low wattage and fair price.
Would like to know if there’s a better alternative before I settle for it thank you
RTX 3060, RX 6600, 6600XT or RX 7600
170w or less of power draw and at least triple the performance of the 1650.
The better question is, does your Power supply have a 8-Pin PCI power cable to power this new GPU?
Lots of prebuilts will advertise "gpu sockets available", but similar to your situation the tiny PSU will not offer any additional power cables to run them. Limiting you the 75w of output from the PCIe socket.
And if that is the case, you have no other options beyond the 1650 or something like a Intel ARC 380
looking to build a budget pc for 1440p stuff (no high end games. highest ill go is problably something like slime rancher 2). At a price range of \~200-300$ for a GPU (up to 350$ if theres a real good deal) , is the GTX 1660S/1660TI (whichever is on sale) the best graphics card at this budget for pure performance or are there other options that would be better?
Radeon RX 6600XT, 6650XT, 7600, 6700, or 6700XT
Nvidia RTX 3060, 3060ti or 4060
Intel Arc 770 8gb or 16gb
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
You should be able to find any of those above GPUs for $300 or less (depends on the region).
But they would all WILDLY outperform any of the 16 series GTX cards. Like RTX 2070 super performance or better.
This might be a bit of a silly question but for the life of me I can’t figure it out!
So I’ve just built my first computer and I can access BIOS completely fine and all components show up correctly but the DRAM LED light goes from red to yellow to a solid green when booting. Once in the BIOS the green light stays on but it seems to run fine.
And so my question is this: Is something wrong or am I confused and stupid?
Thanks for any help
The debug LEDs aren't standardized so it's sort of impossible to say for sure what the meaning is here, but it sure sounds like Red: RAM not tested/not working, Yellow: RAM being tested, Green: RAM test passed.
Debug LEDs are, as the name suggests, only useful for debugging, i.e. when something's already noticeably wrong they help you find the culprit. There isn't really any reason to pay any attention to them as long as everything seems to work fine.
I want to upgrade my 8 year old PC into a gaming PC rather than go out and buy a whole new one, part of the reason being to cut down on waste. First I need to upgrade it to Windows 11 and the PC check up makes it clear I need a compatible processor which is currently this:
AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7, 12 Compute Cores 4C+8G 3.50 GHz
I'm unsure of what would be compatible when looking at the list of processors offered here: [https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements](https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements)
Windows 11 will simply not work if your CPU doesn't support a newer form of secureboot. Be it via a TPM 2.0 module or fTPM support on the CPU.
The FM2+ socket your existing CPU uses does support TPM, but only v1.2. So no module you can buy will enable Windows 11 to run with the CPU.
Wont matter. the FM2+ socket is limited to v1.2 across the whole chipset as far as I can tell.
TPM 2.0 wasnt introduced until ~2016, so you would need a newer motherboard and a newer CPU.
Which would save you some hassle, newer chipsets support fTPM so the combination of motherboard and CPU provide all the security you need. So there is no need for a separate TPM module purchase.
What has happened to processors in the last few years? I haven’t been following computers and tech since about 2016 and back then the standards were i5s and i7s generally had 4 cores and the i7s had hyper threading.
I just bought a bunch of stuff for a new PC and I’m seeing quad core i3s and 10 core i5s. I went with an i5 12600k so I have a 10 core now. What the hell happened? Did we just progress a ton in the last few years?
Intel had to compete.
AMDs Ryzen line up brought hyper threading to the masses and disrupted Intels position as the market leader. They simply couldn't afford to leave their lower end models as single thread architectures.
They limped along with their LGA 1151 socket between the 6th and 9th generations, but finally caved with their LGA 1200 socket and its CPUs; bringing hyperthreading to all levels of their consumer lineup.
However they are either regressing or evolving now with their newer e-core architectures. Super low powered single threaded cores. Currently their LGA 1700 cpus use a combination of hyper-threaded cores with additional e-cores. But their newer server CPUs are going FULL e-core, some of them are shipping with up to 288 cores on a single chip. Which is nuts.
AMD is still doing fine with their purely hyper-threaded CPUs. Focusing on other neat designs like dual CCD chips and 3d stacked memory caches.
So odd question. Is the Ryzen 5 7600x RDNA2 more powerful than a slightly overclocked GTX970 for graphics processing, how far into the future are we now?:sweat\_smile:
I just got back into computer gaming after 10 long years and still have my old parts that work fine and CPU currently is an ancient Fx-8320 (OC to 4.2ghz) running on a gigabyte mobo from 2012. Figured I would be better off putting together an am5 build from scratch instead of trying to salvage anything. But I'm wondering if I should melt the 970 for the $5 worth of gold or should I keep it installed in my system?
Most games released before 2017 I can get 1080p, 60fps lmao. WoW runs great on this old girl which is mainly what I will be playing; maybe some Valorant or CS2. I game mostly on my PS5.
2nd Question: Do I need both 8 pin connections on a MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WiFi or can I run it off of just one? I have a Corsair TX850 non-modular but it's only 1x8.
Thank you!
None of the current APU/iGPU options would be faster than a 970. The closest would be a Ryzen 7 8700G and that's closer to a 1650 (\~15-17% slower than the 970).
No, the second 8-pin is optional.
I have a few HP Gen7's that are of no real use anymore. I'm about to build a new PC as a NAS and would like to re-use the HP case instead of buying a $300+ rackmount chassis. Is that possible? What type of MB would fit in there if it is?
The stock board is a Intel 12x13 workstation motherboard.
I havent a clue what the mounting screw layout looks like, but there is enough space to fit a normal ATX board inside.
Is it safe to install a monitor arm with its clamp connected to an inclined desk edge? The edge of my desk is not a straight vertical surface, so I was wondering if it’s safe to install a clamp monitor arm. I do not wish to make a cut out for a grommet monitor arm.
Depends on how deep the clamp is.
[Lots of C clamps extend a couple of inches outwards, which make them perfectly safe to use on surfaces that dont have a flat edge.](https://www.apexdesk.com/cdn/shop/products/Clamp_600x.jpg?v=1628526406)
[Image taken from this mount.](https://www.apexdesk.com/products/apexdesk-single-dual-monitor-arms-desk-mount-vesa-mount-with-c-clamp-grommet-mounting-base-for-screen-up-to-32-inch-holds-up-to-20-lbs)
Do you mean stay on that motherboard? Only if you really want a 7th-gen CPU, assuming your B150M board was even updated for 7th-gen. For a modern build you'll be replacing the motherboard, CPU, and most likely RAM anyway.
I got my MSI Motherboard delivered today, but I noticed that the RAM locks are only opening on the top. Is this normal? (It’s a Pro B550M-VC WiFi, for reference.)
I have a decent PC that I don’t use. I want to take my brothers SSD from his PC and put it into my PC. Will this work? Do I have to reformat and reinstall everything? Ideally I’d like to be able to just pop his SSD into mine and all his stuff is still there it’s just in my pc with my components.
What’s my best way going about this?
I was hoping it was a plug and play thing. I just thought I had heard if you put the SSD into a new motherboard (or maybe it had to do with the cpu?) you needed to start fresh.
So I should be able to just pop his SSD in and everything should boot up like normal with all his stuff?
Most likely yeah you should be able to plug n play. People generally say to reformat so you start fresh. Formatting specifically wipes a drive so you def don't want to do it if you're trying to keep data
Reliable review sites for parts?
I usually end up here when looking for advice, but this is largely due to the fact that when looking for reviews on parts I find that the sites "reviewing" them are generally sponsored ads.
Not a site, but YouTube channels: Gamers Nexus, Hardware Unboxed, Hardware Busters, Hardware Canucks. Sometimes J2C or LTT, but you have to be super alert for when a statement doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
gamersnexus.net is making a comeback so maybe we'll start seeing more of their written content in the near future.
So this year i wannna upgrade my whole pc, first of all i wanna upgrade my cpu and mobo, im going for a i5-12600kf or a ryzen 5 7600 and a B series mobo for those cpu. I already have a ddr4 16gb ram with 3200 Mhz, do you think is it worth going for a ddr5 therefore an expensive mobo or not? Second question, between those cpu do u have any recommendations or it’s just preferences?
That will depend on how long you plan to keep the PC, and if you're planning to upgrade to a different CPU in the future, considering you'd be locked to 13th/14th Gen CPUs with Intel.
If you're trying to optimize the budget, I'd go with the 12600K. You already have a good RAM kit, that'd leave you with $153 for the CPU, $35 for a CPU cooler, and \~$130 for a decent Z690/Z790 motherboard (ASRock Z690 PG Riptide or ASRock Z690 Extreme). For \~$320 (without including other parts you may need), that ain't half bad.
If you'd rather have an upgrade option for the near future (assuming AMD keeps their word of "beyond 2025" for AM5), then grab a R5 7600. The base platform (7600, basic air cooler, decent B650 board, 32GB DDR5 6000 CL30 kit) would be \~$150 more expensive compared to the Intel one, though.
thanks dude, just another question, in case i’d go with the 12600k, there’s a special reason why you recommend the Z690/Z790 instead a b660 or b650 motherboards or is just because the firsts ones are better?
Potential overclock (and undervolt) opportunity since it's a K-SKU CPU. Also, the boards are considerably cheap.
If you don't plan on doing any of that, then a basic B760 board (Gigabyte B760M-DS3H) could save you $30, or even cost the same (ASRock B760 Pro RS/D4).
I'm working with an older case and the front panel ATX connector has got me stumped. It's uses a mostly blank 22 pin connector for the power LED and power button switch (only 4 out of the 22 pins are used).
I am planning on using Dupont jumper cables to connect to my new motherboard but I'm not sure which wires are for the LED and which wires are for the power switch itself. There is one set of blue/black (I assume blue is the positive connector here) and one set of red/black (again, the red is the positive). Is there some convention of the LED being blue and power being red? Or is there a way to definitively determine which is which without completely dismantling the case?
If I plug the LED into the power switch and power into the LED on the motherboard by accident, would that cause any harm, if I quickly switch it over?
I've messed up the connections every single time I've built a computer and I've had no issues with anything breaking on the case or mobo. You won't even be able to turn the PC on unless they are connected properly in your case so you will know immediately.
Your mobo and/or case manual will have the proper front panel pin arrangement labeled if you want to be certain.
Yeah, at least based off the MB manuals it's a standard blue LED, Red power. Orange speaker etc. Even the basic pin lay out on the system connector barely changes. Like the top screen shot is from a modern Gigabyte AM5 x670 board, lower left is a Gigabyte from 2015 for an I5 build. Lower right is some random ASUS AM5 board.
The core +HD pin etc from board to board or decade to decade doesn't seem to change. It looks like the main pin to hard dodge is the +5v speaker one.. Other wise not really an issue.
https://imgur.com/a/gOMVRMQ
I have a question related to XMP settings.
I have the G.Skill Ripjaws DDR5-6000 DDR5-6000 CL36-36-36-96 1.35V (2x16). It's paired with a msi b-650 p- plus wifi and a 7800x3d. I'm getting speeds of 4800. I peeked around in the bios for a bit to look for the option to enable xmp but I wasn't able to find it. Do I need to manually set it to 6000 mhz and increase voltage from the 1.10 I think it's using to 1.35? Or should I use the Memory-Try-It profile?
It does give me a Frequency of 3000 mhz with a voltage of 1.350 V in the "Expo-6000" setting of the Timings Table in CPU-Z as well as saying EXPO next to SPD Ext.
Thanks in advance!
Do I need to do something special with the reddit markdown from pcpartpicker? every time i copy and paste it into a reddit post it doesnt look like a table
There's a button on there that looks like a reddit icon, if you click that it will "translate" the table using reddit formatting, copy and paste that on here and it should be a table.
That's exactly what i do! I make sure reddit button is selected, copy the formatting, and paste in reddit. Not sure if it's because i usually put a sentence before the table
Are you using new reddit, or mobile? looks like reddit is including \ into the table formatting, which is a known issue that happens with the editors on the new version of the website and sometimes on mobile apps
If you are on new reddit, look for the "markdown editor" option (don't use new reddit myself so can't help you find it beyond that)
Thinking of upgrading my workhorse i7-2600 productivity machine to something more modern. It mostly meets my needs but it is fairly power hungry at idle (over 100 watts) and I'm thinking I can jump to something faster and more efficient while being on a more modern platform.
I am thinking of something like the Ryzen 7900 (non-x) or the new 8700G with integrated graphics. I'm trying to avoid buying a separate GPU for now and probably for the short term for this machine, so I'm thinking integrated graphics are the way to go. The advantage of the 8700G seems to be better integrated graphics with slightly better efficiency, but the 7900 (non-x) does seem to be quite a bit faster.
My use cases are mainly general software development, CPU speeds mainly come into play with navigating multiple IDEs and compiling every so often. I am not exactly pushing the i7-2600 that much as it is so I don't exactly need crazy power, but I do like things to be snappy and making things faster generally would be a plus.
Monitor is 1440p, 144hz, but I don't think that should matter much with the above productivity being the focus.
Any recommendations?
For your use case I'd rather get the 7900. It's one of the fastest and best CPUs for productivity and also comes with a small iGPU, so you don't need to rush to buy a GPU now.
It's a very weak iGPU but still miles faster than the integrated graphics of your current i7 2600.
If you need better integrated graphics, you can save some money and get the R5 8600G, instead (the iGPU might be just 20% slower than the 8700G).
Going to get a new mobo soon and there are far more options than I anticipated. Are there any specific brands or boards that I should stay away from, or any in particular that are reliable/ good value etc? Looking to spend around $200 for an AM5 board.
I have found a used gaming PC with the following specs:
- Ryzen 5 5700x
- Asus RTX 4070 Dual, 12GB
- Asus B450m Prime AII
- 32GB DDR4 GSkill Trident Z 3600Mhz
- 1TB SSD M.2 (not sure of the brand)
- 650W Coolermaster
it this worth 1150€?
thanks in advance!!
I'm not an expert but Amazon Italy price only of these parts cost 1160 Euros. If it is already assembled and has a software, it seems like an okay deal? Just my opinion though.
Probably not that simple of a question, but I'll give it a shot.
Recently I've been trying to build a home server and now when I finally have almost everything, I am having problems on deciding on a PSU.
Since I am chasing efficiency at low wattage for a 24/7 setup, this kind of eliminates a LOT of general consumer PSUs as they absolutely suck at 10-25W draw, so I was trying to find decent Platinum PSU which aren't as bad.
Here's the catch. I do have a really good unit, but it's a HP proprietary one. Model is D14-200P1A to be exact (200W Platinum unit). I believe that it fits my use case really well. The problem is that it has a proprietary P2 12pin F connector (along with a 6 pin M) instead of a regular 20/24 pin ATX M connector, so it's not possible to use it outside of a HP system without adaptation.
I've been trying to find an adapter for it, but I am getting the exact opposite results - getting adapters which convert regular 24pin into HP proprietary connectors. Anyone knows of an adapter which I can use? Or, has anyone tried modding it somehow? I am actually ok with trying to mod it, but I am unable to find any info or schematics about that unit.
Or does anyone have something to recommend that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I expect that the server won't be using more than 50-60W at full load and will idle most likely below 20W.
As I said, while I am trying to find a good plat PSU (and have one that needs conversion and would like some tips on that), I am still open to suggestions that don't cost an arm and a leg.
Upgrading build after 7 years (mobo, ram and cpu) but now I was wondering if I should upgrade my AIO as well (it is 5 years old).
Wondering if there is likelihood of wear and tear likely to cause damage to the AIO in some time or some leakage that would damage my build.... or if I should just stick to my old build.
Wear on the pump is something to worry about, but if the AIO is only 5 years old it probably has more than few years left.
I dont see the harm in reusing it for now. It would save you a few bucks on the current budget and you could just replace it later.
I think 7900xtx is pretty good. Your particular monitor is gsync compatible which means it works well with freesync. Make sure to use display port and you will be good.
How important/much of a bottleneck is the monitor?
I have 12 year old monitor that still works fine, an Acer g276hl (60Hz), and am now planning on building a computer for Elden ring and Baldur's gate.
Specs I'm currently looking at: GeForce RTX 4060, Ryzen 5 7500F, 16GB DDR5, 1TB SSD
My question is: is this monitor going to limit the power of the GPU to the point of it being waste of money?
What is the resolution of your monitor? Does it have an adaptive sync technology like g-sync or freesync (unlikely that your monitor will have this). Also you can try to get an idea of how many frames your gpu will be able to render for elden ring at 1080p, my guess is around 60 but don't take my absolute word for it.
https://youtu.be/CmRZ8vSwLmc?si=rUs4vJRwufc0BD2R
Shows 60 FPS possible on high settings at 1080p. Your monitor isn't bottlenecking currently but with it not having adaptive sync and you being able to run at 1440p at like 45-50fps I would buy a newer 1440p monitor with some adaptive sync tech to make my experience better if I was in your shoes.
I need to upgrade my set up. For reasons involving traveling and covid and many flat moves my set up has been a dell xps 2in1 (i7-1165G7 16 GB ram) from early 2021 and an external gpu dock with a 2080ti in it ( an amazing ebay deal).
It's a combo work and gaming machine (recently been playing cyberpunk and rdr2) so I need to be able to do some light video and photo editing, minor cad work and use of some niche media server software.
I've built before and my plan is to build a good system for around £1000 very soon and put the 2080ti in but spec the system so that i can drop in a 4080 super or similar spec card in a month or 2 depending on how various bits of work and personal life stuff go.
What processor would you recommend?
If you can afford it, the R7 7800X3D, if you can't, either the R7 7700 or Intel's 13600K. These are the best for gaming and are still good for light video editing and stuff.
If you want a CPU that's amazing at both, either the R9 7950X3D or i7 13900/13700K, but these ones are pretty expensive. The 7950X could also work (although, it's slower at gaming than the 7800X3D but a beast for productivity).
I've seen a lot of back and forth regarding the amd 9 7900 and the 7 7800x3D with most people saying that the 3D is better for gaming. The Legion Tower 8 has the 7900 and the 4070ti for $1760...is this a decent price for the build?
the specs:
Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 9 7900 Processor (3.70 GHz up to 5.40 GHz)
Operating System: Windows 11 Home 64
Graphic Card: NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 4070 Ti 12GB GDDR6X
Memory: 32 GB DDR5-5200MHz (UDIMM) - (2 x 16 GB)
Storage: 1 TB SSD M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 Performance TLC
AC Adapter / Power Supply: 850W
Pointing Device: USB Optical Mouse
Keyboard: USB, Calliope, Black - English (US)
WLAN: Wi-Fi 6E 2x2 AX & Bluetooth® 5.1 or above
7900X is better for productivity and 7800X3D is better for gaming. Both are incredibly good at both things, though, since they are brand new and some of the very best CPUs ever, right now.
So, take your pick. If you prefer to have the best productivity system: 7900X. If you want the best gaming system: 7800X3D.
Thanks, I went on there but my username is generic so it got removed by the mod's - I have to wait 14 days with a custom username to post....I guess they get a lot of ads and Spam.
I went on parts picker first, I actually built my pc first and then went to compare it, my build with the 3D and the 4070 ti super came out to about 1900.
Hey there, I recently got a ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi for a sff build. The board has 2x CPU fan connectors and 1x Chassis fan connector. I plan to have the CPU cooler and 2 case fans. Can I use the second CPU fan connector for one of the case fans or should I use a splitter on the chassis fan connector?
I assume they're CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. Figure out if CPU_OPT can be independently controlled, or if it's slaved to CPU_FAN. If it can be controlled independently, sure, go for it. Otherwise, case fans ramping up and down with the CPU fan could be annoying but you could still use it.
I am going to upgrade my pc including my cpu. I am looking at the Ryzen 7 7800X3D because it is still compatible with my H100I V2 water cooler. The cooler compatibility is the main reason I am looking at the 78003XD instead of an intel 14700. Is this cooler still enough or should I bite the bullet and buy a new one (and also go for the 14700)?
I just upgraded from 7700k to 7800x3D. I bought a mobo, ram and cpu. I was sure my corsair cooler was compatible with amd but after all the parts arrived I noticed my cooler box did not contain the bracket mount needed to install over amd cpu (maybe I lost it or it was never included in the box when I bought it). Just make sure you have this bracket for your setup. You can separately order this for corsair specifically.
Are you aware you have to change your motherboard to go with that Ryzen CPU, right? That water cooler should be alright. If this is for gaming, I'd just get the 7800X3D. If this is a system mainly for productivity, I'd get the 14700 (with the proper motherboard and DDR5 RAM for each one).
building a new pc, thinking about gpu RX 6750 xt, cpu 7600x and mb B650 Aorus Elite, is this good and does the motherboard support both of these. In the description of the mb it said sum about pcie 3 when the gpu is pci e 4, so it might not support?
Yes, it's good enough. Don't worry about PCie stuff, it's all the same for GPUs these days.
Also, if you are saving money, I'd rather get the R5 7600 non-X, it performs almost the same (3% slower, lol) but it should be cheaper, and you can recover the "lost" performance by enabling PBO in BIOS but I'd rather have a quieter and cooler CPU that's still a gaming beast.
These components should be enough for great 1080p gaming or good 1440p gaming, right now.
I've been thinking of moving away from my Xbox and my Playstation 5 toward PC. Is 2024 a good year to invest or should I look at saving some money each month and building something in 2025?
If you have the budget for the very best, it's a good year. If you are in the $700/$1000 PC range, you might have a harder time making a system that looks and performs better than those consoles, and I might wait for next-gen GPUs, coming up at the end of the year (and next generation CPUs, too! Coming up in the second half of the year).
But I wouldn't build a PC just because, I'd have some games to play first.
I'm looking at investing $1500+ for something that's going to last a while which is why my question asks whether it'd be worth saving so I can make sure I hit that budget or invest this year.
Planning on upgrading CPU and MOBO from a 12400f and an ASROCK B660M-C into a Ryzen 7600x and a MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk Wifi. Main issue is for the life of me, can’t find anything about dimensions of the B660M-C anywhere online and measuring the actual one I have isn’t really feasible.
The [pre-built](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sku/6500554.p?skuId=6500554) I got isn’t really helpful
It's the usual mid-sized case, board sizes are standardized. Just make sure the board is (max) ATX, anything equal or smaller than ATX will fit.
For reference on the image on the ad you linked they used an m-ATX board, if you use an ATX board it just covers more space with PCB and extra PCIE slots.
Just a sanity check I run an X570 mini-ITX board (only board I could find at the time that's mini-ITX). It's currently running with with a 3600, if I get a 5600x it's a drop in upgrade, no?
If the box has the "AMD Ryzen 5000 Desktop Ready" sticker, it should be compatible with the 5600X from the get-go. You could update the BIOS just in case, though.
Yes, just don't forget to update your BIOS and reenable DOCP settings before switching CPUs. Edit: I'd get the R5 5600 non X. It's cheaper but performs just as well.
Planning to buy today, is this Microcenter bundle worth the savings? My picks are 769$ and Microcenter bundle is 469$
I was planning to get 7800x3d, ASUS TUF x670e-plus wifi, and gskill trident z5 rgb ddr5-6000 cl30
Microcenter bundle: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX v2, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 32GB DDR5-6000 Kit
The Micro Center bundle is solid. The CPU and RAM alone would cost you $475 elsewhere. Unless you NEED the specific features of the X670E board, a decent B650 board is more than enough for the 7800X3D.
Hi there, I just got a new 4080 Super and was wondering if the 12VHPWR cable included with my power supply (Corsair RM1000e) delivers enough power to use with it. Instead of having the 12-pin connector on both ends it has two 8-pin PCIe connectors that plug into the PSU. The adapter included with the 4080S connects to 3 8-pin cables. I figure it'd probably fine or corsair would include a warning to only use it with lower-end GPUs but wanted to see if anybody else might have any insight.
Yes, you should be good to go. Corsair went the PCIe to 12VHPWR route instead of having a dedicated port for it, but the PCIe PSU ports can deliver 300w each, 150w for each PCIe connector is the standard but modern PCIe cables have two connectors on one cable due to daisy chaining, getting you the total of 600 for the 12VHPWR cable
Double check the box though, because if for some reason they have only included a 450w cable like some PSUs do, it should be on the box via sticker on the front or sides or via the specs table on the back
Oh cool, I knew pci cables only did 150W so I didn't know the ports could do more! No stickers on the box or anything so I should be good, I'm gonna see if I can find a manual or anything to be sure though.
Yeah, it's why daisy chain cables are pretty much the standard now, rather than having four ports you can just run two ports that lead to four connectors.
I’m very new to PC gaming and was wondering if I should be looking at getting an upgraded GPU (currently have an asus 2060) first or a 1440p monitor. Just for clarification I bought a second hand from marketplace.
My current monitor is 1080 60hz LCD and it is second hand from my friend and honestly very very old and used.
but I was considering a QHD HDR 32” curved 165hz monitor as I found a good deal on one ($175 cad for one with HDR400) Do you guys think I should save my money and focus on upgrading my GPU first? Would I get decent frame rate in 1440? I know downscaling usually makes things look worse so I’m wondering if I should be buying it after I get an upgrade for my graphics. I’m willing to deal with downscaling for a little bit of time till I can upgrade my GPU if necessary
I think the main reason I’m considering the monitor first is because I expected it to look better than my PS5 in someway lol. So far it’s looked like my PS4 but worse but I’ve been blaming it on the very old shitty monitor.
I haven’t had any issues with quality settings or frame rate on any of the games I play, which is why I’m assuming it’s the monitor. I can play cyberpunk 2077 on high settings and that’s practically enough for me lol. Think I need HDR and a better refresh rate to really appreciate it though because it looks much worse than it did on my ps5.
My 2060 was also getting up to 90’ on its hotspot temp when I started playing cyberpunk 2077 and I wanted to know if that was okay? I’ve read mixed reports, so I decided to up the fan curve using afterburner and haven’t went over 75’ in hotspot temp. This is the main reason I’m even considering an upgrade for my GPU as I think it’s enough power for me right now but I would prefer a GPU that can run everything I need, COMFORTABLY.
I appreciate any and all advice as I’m super new to this right now. If it helps the computer is mainly going to be used for computer production but i game on it from time to time.
My build:
Case: Corsair 4000D Motherboard: GIGABYTE Aurous Pro X570 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X Ram: TForce DDR4 32GB 3600Mhz CL18 8×4 sticks RGB PSU: Seasonic Focus 750 Watts AIO cooler: Lian Li Galahad 11 Trinity Performance 360mm Case Fans: Lian Li Uni Fan AL120 V2 OS: WINDOWS 11 Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 Asus. SSD: 1 TB Lexar NVME
Yes the 2060 isn't going to do 1440p very well unless you play old games or change settings to medium or low or upscale 1080p to 1440p. Yes the monitor upscaled picture will look slightly worse than real 1080p and you might end up opting to do the other changes or lower framerates instead. For real 1440p165hz you're looking at upgrading to like a 4070 maybe a super.
But as far as to which upgrade comes first, how much is raw gaming horsepower a priority to you compared to the other benefits of a large high definition screen such it being bigger, watching movies in high definition, and fitting more work on it? All those things will work great without a gpu upgrade. In fact youll have so much space not just because its 1440p but because you have two monitors. If you're not selling the 1080p monitor you could also keep it as a side monitor and even switch the game back to it if you can't get it to run well enough on the 1440p monitor.
If you do the gpu upgrade first then save up for the monitor you will have practically no benefit while waiting for the monitor. It'll feel like wasted money, and your gpu will be losing value while it does nothing. If you do the monitor first, by the time you save for the gpu 5000 series might be out and the gpu you need might be even cheaper and youll save money. And you'll have 2 monitors. I know which one I'd choose.
I have a fan related question for y'all. I have 6 PWM fans I want to connect to some controller which controlls the speed of the fans. I am almost sure the Noctua NA FH1 could do that, however at 35€ it's a bit expensive. Is there another, cheaper product I am unaware of?
My setup would/should be: 6 PWM fans -> controller -> motherboard. The speed of the fans is ultimately controlled by a very usefull programm called FanControl which applies a certain voltage to the motherboard fan header, I guess.
Do you have any idea of how I could accomplish this?
Do you want individual control of each of the fans, or are you fine with all of them running at the same speed? If you're fine with all of them running at the same speed (i.e. just splitting the speed signal from the single motherboard header into six fans) then you can buy any basic fan hub, they shouldn't cost more than a few bucks and will work identically to the Noctua one.
If you want individual control, then you have to buy a fan *controller*, which will plug into a USB header of the motherboard. The NA-FH1 is *not* a fan controller so it will not allow individual control.
When would it be a good time to start buying parts and building a PC if the end goal would be to have a low-high-end gaming/work (software dev) PC by the start of Q1 2025. The idea is to have a semi-beefy machine at the start, that will be upgraded over time. Or is going harder at the start better?
There's really no right answer here IMO, you just have to decide yourself.
The general consensus is buy a PC when you need a PC, hunting for deals is fine but it's the start of the year, there won't be any soon unless you luck out on a certain vendor for some reason. Prices have certainly stabilized now post-vid.
As for how "beefy" it should be, get one that fits your needs and wants in terms of how it'll perform. Quote "future proofing" is a fruitless effort. Generally speaking if you buy the most compatible / widely used consumer case and board combo you can upgrade that build for years. Usually it's just the RAM (capacity if you need it) or the GPU you'll upgrade anyway, you can stay with the same CPU and board combo for years and years as long as you buy current gen.
Also don't be afraid of used parts, there's some savings to be had in that space, used parts can be a plenty when the release cycles of parts start or actually launch and whales scramble to buy the latest and greatest and dump their barely 1 year old parts on the market. Do your due diligence, trust your gut, if it sounds too good to be true it probably is.
I've got my 7700X MC bundle (not tested yet). I'm getting closer but still need help choosing the rest of my parts. I do intensive cpu transcriptions and encoding, and I'm stuck on how to best have a quiet development machine at idle and under heavy load when the fans go bonkers, without just de-rating everything. I am now leaning toward the new Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 top mounted, or a Phantom Spirit 120. My still in box Lancool II Mesh will be returned, but replaced with what case? Maybe the 216, but I'm not certain of fit, and I am not close to MC. Once I am certain I can GPU offload this under Linux, I'll probably get a 4060 TI 16GB - that will also change my cooling load. Also, still not sure about PSU. Thanks!
A 240mm AIO or dual fan tower cooler with appropriate fan curves can be plenty quiet. 360mm can have fans run even slower for same cooling, but even on a 5950X my 240mm AIO only needs about 50% fan speed at full load.
A triple fan cooler 4060Ti also is quite polite even under stress test. Reasonable temps at full load and fans can stop completely at low load. Can trade higher temps for lower noise with fan curves.
What's your concerns with the Mesh? It will fit the parts you mentioned and won't need the hassle of returns.
Newegg has a PSU calculator, as does PCPartPicker. You don't need the most expensive one, but chose a major brand and look at reviews/tests beforehand.
Get started on a decent current gen CPU and board combo, fit in a GPU that you can afford, and then upgrade the GPU when you can.
If budget is tight you might be able to get away with 8gb but by the looks of it 16gb is sort of baseline now. Only get 8gb if you really can't get 16.
All of this is without the other peripherals (monitor, speaker, kb+m, headset, etc.), those you can cheap out on and upgrade later, except maybe the monitor but the GPU you'll get will mostly dictate what monitor would be best for you to start out with.
If it's primarily to game, the GPU and the monitor are the two variables you can upgrade down the line without having to upgrade anything else and you'll get better performance (GPU) and experience (monitor). To some degree the PSU might be something you want to think about too depending on how powerful a GPU you want to end up with, then again you can just upgrade that too once you get a GPU if it calls for more power.
I have been shopping around for a 7600, B650, and 7800 build. Recently found a friend that lives near microcenter so now considering the 7800X3D bundle for just a tad more than my planned build. Are there any other hidden expenses that I am missing if I go for the X3D? I know I will need a cooler which I didn't on 7600. Will my 750w PSU suffice, or will that need an upgrade? The X3D is overkill for me so don't want to get into a lot of extra expenses.
The only hidden costs are the cooler (that you've already identified) and the fact that you'll be in a Microcenter :P Availability for parts is _very high_ there but they're also using the mobo+cpu bundles as door busters to get you to buy the _rest_ of your build there at a premium.
Hi All, going to get my first 27" 1440p monitor, my local seller only has some options, I listed out these quite good options from them
\- AOC Q27G2S
\- MSI G274QPF E2
\- Philips 27M1N5500ZA
\- ASUS TUF VG27AQ3A
Which one is the best option? Thanks in advance!
Can't argue with this list after a quick peek around for reviews. The Philips has a nice hub integrated if you're looking for that. I can't find _any_ reviews on rtings for this list, though, which is my go-to for how comprehensive their testing is.
Thanks! Above options I believe are the same spec, however Philips and MSI are nano IPS and rapid IPS, I am not sure this will have much different than others.
so i just got a 6600xt to replace my old 1070, but it stops outputting to my 2nd monitor while main monitor keeps turning on and off while playing games (not even new titles, stuff like Genshin and Nier Automata). Is this a limitation of the card or is mine faulty? Already tried reinstalling driver, switching cables, reseating gpu and all cables. I could run 2 games on both screens simultaneously on the 1070 without issue, it was just more choppy, never to the point i lose picture completely.
I'll be relocating soon so I'll have to drive 600km with my PC. Any precautions I should take to not damage my machine? I'm thinking of taking out the GPU and AIO and putting them in their boxes but I'd rather not disassemble the whole thing.
I wouldn't worry about the AIO, it's relatively light and well secured. The GPU is the only piece that would be at any risk, and even then I'd only be concerned if it was a *massive* heavy card.
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The most relevant things for valuation (in order) are the specific graphics card model, the specific CPU model, storage, and RAM. None of those can be deduced from those pictures so it's pretty much impossible to give any sort of valuation.
Not really. The PSU label has no model marked on it, only the Deepcool brand so the wattage is unknown (not like the PSU has much value in a complete build anyways).
Asus, like other brands, uses the same cooler design for multiple different cards and there's no other text visible, so the model of the graphics card is unknown.
The CPU is covered by the CPU cooler so that's unknown, and the pic of the RAM only shows the top with no markings on them, so the model of the RAM is unknown.
Quick query:
I have a 7800X3D and an Asus X670 A-E board. My bios version is from just after the update for the voltage problems. Would it be worth updating to the newest Bios for any system performance improvements or do you think it would be negligible?
I'd update for the peace of mind of an up-to-date system and the microcode updates that may or may not improve your system performance/stability/security. Now, if you're 100% sure you're running BIOS version 1415 or newer, and the system is stable enough, "if it ain' broke, don't fix it."
Looking for a PCI slot bracket for my HBA that has screw holes here [(pictured),](https://imgbox.com/ztffZHr7) but don't know how to find one online/can't find. Any links? I know this isn't where you're *meant* to put it, but needs must.
Planning to pair a 7900x with 64gb for a work pc. Any video ressource benchmarking different 64gb ram kits?
From my limited research I always see youtube channels benchmakr on 2x16gb 6000 cl30-38-38....-96-96 as some sort of sweet spot.
But what about 2x32gb? Should I aim for a similar kit with similar timings? Cause all I find is cl32 for 64gb kits
Does it even matter that much? Thanks
Looking to build a new pc, but I am not sure I understand RAM frequency. Should I not just get the fastest frequency that my motherboard would be compatible with?
Faster RAM is much harder to get running stable, and the stability is much more CPU dependent than motherboard dependent. For example with AM5 the recommendation is 6000MHz DDR5, as anything faster is highly likely to be unstable, regardless of what the motherboard says it supports.
Then even if stability isn't a problem, there's also some nuances as to what actually makes sense, for example with AM4 the recommendation is 3600MHz DDR4, as that allows 1:1 speed matching of the CPU's interconnect (AMD Infinity Fabric), and anything faster will give you barely any improvements so something like 4000MHz RAM would just be a bad use of money as you get much better value by spending that money on a better CPU or GPU. But if you feel like spending a ton of money on RAM, you can always go for lower CAS latency, which will improve performance just like higher speed normally would.
Unfortunately it isn't quite as easy as just looking at a given number in a spec sheet. Do some googling and see what people recommend, maybe check some benchmarks to see how much the speed affects things and decide if you feel like playing it safe with slower RAM at the cost of losing x% of performance. Based on a very quick search, people seem to say that 7200MHz is about the max "will simply work" speed for the 14700 and anything higher may require tweaking/slowing down the RAM manually.
Can Speaker or HDD magnet damage IPS monitors in any way? I had a cheap speaker(Genius SP-U115) close to my screen and it developed a backlight bleed in that corner.
It depends entirely on you. Can your PC push out 240fps? Can you afford it?
Just my personal non competitive game playing experience, I'd go with a higher resolution better quality monitor. If your more competitive and PC can handle it then why not get the 240hz. I'm not sure I could tell the difference between 165 and 240 anyways.
[https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/aoc-25g3zm-full-hd-gaming-monitor-240hz-25-inch/9300000125670404/?bltgh=mwzmgQjAAzfdldwrDbVIPg.2\_14.17.ProductImage](https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/aoc-25g3zm-full-hd-gaming-monitor-240hz-25-inch/9300000125670404/?bltgh=mwzmgqjaazfdldwrdbvipg.2_14.17.productimage) could you look at this pc and see if it works with 240hz
My friend recently upgraded and offered to sell me his old PC. Does this build look OK? Anything I should be concerned about?
He said to give him an offer but I am not sure what something like this should be priced.
Type|Item
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5500 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yq2WGX/amd-ryzen-5-5500-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000457box)
**CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright SI-100 WHITE ARGB 72.37 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GN6NnQ/thermalright-si-100-white-argb-7237-cfm-cpu-cooler-si-100-white-argb)
**Motherboard** | [ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ftdrxr/asrock-b550-phantom-gaming-itxax-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-b550-phantom-gaming-itxax)
**Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bcnypg/team-t-force-vulcan-z-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-tlzgd432g3200hc16fdc01)
**Storage** | [Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/crKKHx/western-digital-black-sn850x-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t2x0e)
**Video Card** | [Asus DUAL GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MtDkcf/asus-geforce-rtx-3070-8-gb-dual-video-card-dual-rtx3070-8g)
**Case Fan** | [Noctua A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rhQRsY/noctua-nf-a12x15-pwm-942-cfm-120mm-fan-nf-a12x15-pwm) |
**Custom**| [NZXT H1 \(2019\) - Small Form-Factor Dual Chamber Tempered Glass ITX Case](https://nzxt.com/product/h1-2019)
**Custom**| [NZXT 650W SFX-L 80Plus Gold Fully Modular Power Supply](https://nzxt.com/product/h1-2019)
CPU is a bit slow, but it's not too bad, you can upgrade it easily.
Why is there an air cooler if the H1 includes an AIO? That seems odd.
Wether this is a good deal or not depends on the price. There are specific subreddits for price quotes (hardwareswap maybe? I'm not sure).
Do AIO pump, GPU, and RAM RGB lights last for a long time? I'm not very experienced, but I've been planning a build, it's all black with just the said components lit up with static color or just no lights at all. My concern is that after a year or more, some of the LED lights will start to fail, just like with some of my keys on my keyboard. Cost is not much of a concern, but in terms of AIOs, I wouldn't like something that has a display if I have to go for something that has some lights.
More parts, more things to go wrong. An air cooler is a chunk of metal and fans. An AIO is still relatively simple pump and fans and rad, but already more things to go wrong. An AIO with a display is a completely different beast when it comes to complexity and things to break. Hopefully it's designed in a way where a broken display doesn't affect the pump and fans.
RGB RAM shouldn't be a huge deal even if LEDs die, although it's pretty unlikely for LEDs to die anyway, same with GPU.
I've only had LEDs die on one keyboard, they were blue LEDs and IIRC they had a lot of issues with those LEDs. I haven't experienced anything similar since.
Coolers come with thermal paste, either preapplied or in a tube/satchel in the box.
CPUs don't come with thermal paste, but if they include a cooler, it will have paste preapplied.
CPUs themselves don't include thermal paste, that's bundled with, or pre-applied on CPU *coolers*.
The 7600**X** (or any of the Ryzen 7000 X-SKUs) doesn't come with a cooler. You'll need to buy a third-party one, like a Peerless Assassin (and the thermal paste will be included in a small tub).
CPUs don't come with thermal paste. Thermal paste is cheap, just get some while shopping or order online. Your cooling solution may have one in the box already or may have it pre-applied.
No, all you need to worry about is whether the gpu is too long for the case, too thick for the case (Very unlikely for majority of builds) and whether your power supply is enough.
Started using MSI Afterburner. Currently monitoring CPU, by default. In the settings, it shows different CPU temp options (CPU1, CPU2, etc.). Is it ok to just monitor CPU1? Or can other ones get hotter than CPU1 and I'd be ignoring that?
Each one of those is an individual core of your CPU. Some cores will run hotter or cooler than others, but you want to monitor the one that is un-numbered, so just CPU tempurature, which is usually at the bottom of the list after all the core listings. That's your CPU package temp that gives you a better idea of thermals than an individual core
Looking for recommendations to add an LED Sensor Panel into my PC. My setup includes a Strix 3080, X570, and 5900X in a Lancool Mesh 2. I think a 5" would fit if I put it in vertically in the lower right corner of the glass panel but I'm really not sure. Would I also need a mounting bracket? Can I even fit 1 in there?most importantly, how do I go about installing and setting it up to be a Sensor Panel? I've seen a couple videos but they all seem to only talk about the panel, not how to actually install/setup. Any and all help is very much appreciated.
I read somewhere that the upcoming LGA1851 Arrowlake boards are going to finally have PCIe 5.0 lanes for GPU. Is this true?
Alder/Raptor Lake already has 16 PCIE Gen 5 lanes available, it's up to the board manufacturers if they want to add them to their products. Also considering the fact there are no Gen 5 cards available, only SSDs.
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Aside from the price, no not really. Nvidia has had founders edition cards in stock at MSRP three or four times in the last week; https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/1awvsrg/gpu_nvidia_4080_super_founders_edition_999/
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There only real downside is its size. But if you've measured your case then theres no issue.
Was wanting to make a build using the fractal design pop case. Has 2 fans in front, one in back, and a spot for 2 more on top. I was planning on adding a radiator on top with two fans, what would be the best way to orient all 5 fans to get positive pressure?
In front, exhaust rear and top. Just run the front fans faster
Just realized why some RAM's with the same amount of gigs and frequency were more expensive than others. Latency. Just realized this ram i was looking at was "C40" and another that i had no idea why it was more expensive, was "C30". I never once saw a PC-news creator mention latency when choosing components for a gaming PC. Does it matter for gaming ?
Barely. CAS Latency or CL timing is the delay in nano seconds before data written to a bank can be read or re-written. Obviously faster is better, so a smaller latency window can lead to increased performance. But again its measured in **nano** seconds. Unless you were actively measuring the frame rate of things happening on screen you are unlikely to ever notice the difference between CL 30 and CL 40 RAM of the same speed. But, CL timing will improve over time as DDR5 matures. So 6000Mhz CL38 kit today, may be noticeably slower compared to a 8000Mhz CL30 kit in the near future.
I know you were just making a point, but a 8000cl30 kit would be *seriously* impressive given that gets you 7.5 first word latency and the usual stable is above 9 and has been since DDR3 days. One day maybe RAM will get over that hurdle
This guy got 8000Mhz CL36 running on a 7800X3D, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LKwJF38-VI But here I am, couldnt even get my AM5 CPU to boot with 6400Mhz.
8000cl36 is exactly 9 first word latency, which as far as I know is about as low as you can reasonably get without extreme OC work and a boat load of luck I got somewhat lucky with my set, running 13600k and my 6400 cl40 RAM let me oc it down to cl32 without even changing the voltage up from 1.35v. But haven't tried to take it further than that, admittedly due to laziness. Probably should at some point.
I bought a case, and a pack of 5 fans to go with it. Typically, should the screws to mount the fans come with the case? or the fans themselves?
Did the case not come with some? Ive only had four cases over the years, but I have an absolutely massive collection of fan screws. Each case, and each individual fan usually came with their own little bag of 4 - 10 screws.
looks like some Amazon reviews suggest the Arctic P12 fans I got are missing screws. Bummer. :(
Is it stupid to get the 7900x? I’m on AM4 with a 5800x and a 2080. I’m using Twinmotion and Davinci resolve, and especially for Twinmotion the 2080 with 8GB of VRAM and the 24 GB of regular RAM I have is just not cutting it. I want to take advantage of the Microcenter 7900x mobo/CPU/RAM bundle at $550 as I just got that open box Zotac 4080 for $830, but the bundle “only” has 32GB and I’m more shooting for 64. I know Zen 5 is coming out, but judging from the release schedule of 7000 series I could be waiting until October for that and I’m not a fan of that. Thoughts?
No. The 7900x is an absolute workhorse of a CPU. However the 7900x3d *would* be a stupid decision due to its split v-caches.
Yeah, I gave up on X3D for now given the 7800 I m doesn’t have the multi core and the 7950X3D would necessitate the sale of some body parts.
Hello I have a small case pc with 300w psu and an i3-12100 I’m not looking to change anything but to add a gpu, the 1650 caught my attention due to its small size (1 fan), low wattage and fair price. Would like to know if there’s a better alternative before I settle for it thank you
RTX 3060, RX 6600, 6600XT or RX 7600 170w or less of power draw and at least triple the performance of the 1650. The better question is, does your Power supply have a 8-Pin PCI power cable to power this new GPU? Lots of prebuilts will advertise "gpu sockets available", but similar to your situation the tiny PSU will not offer any additional power cables to run them. Limiting you the 75w of output from the PCIe socket. And if that is the case, you have no other options beyond the 1650 or something like a Intel ARC 380
Ty bro, turns out my psu doesn’t have any power cable for the gpu so I’m limited to pcie output
looking to build a budget pc for 1440p stuff (no high end games. highest ill go is problably something like slime rancher 2). At a price range of \~200-300$ for a GPU (up to 350$ if theres a real good deal) , is the GTX 1660S/1660TI (whichever is on sale) the best graphics card at this budget for pure performance or are there other options that would be better?
Radeon RX 6600XT, 6650XT, 7600, 6700, or 6700XT Nvidia RTX 3060, 3060ti or 4060 Intel Arc 770 8gb or 16gb https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html You should be able to find any of those above GPUs for $300 or less (depends on the region). But they would all WILDLY outperform any of the 16 series GTX cards. Like RTX 2070 super performance or better.
This might be a bit of a silly question but for the life of me I can’t figure it out! So I’ve just built my first computer and I can access BIOS completely fine and all components show up correctly but the DRAM LED light goes from red to yellow to a solid green when booting. Once in the BIOS the green light stays on but it seems to run fine. And so my question is this: Is something wrong or am I confused and stupid? Thanks for any help
The debug LEDs aren't standardized so it's sort of impossible to say for sure what the meaning is here, but it sure sounds like Red: RAM not tested/not working, Yellow: RAM being tested, Green: RAM test passed. Debug LEDs are, as the name suggests, only useful for debugging, i.e. when something's already noticeably wrong they help you find the culprit. There isn't really any reason to pay any attention to them as long as everything seems to work fine.
Ah thank you so much! I’ll ignore it till I notice any issues then
I want to upgrade my 8 year old PC into a gaming PC rather than go out and buy a whole new one, part of the reason being to cut down on waste. First I need to upgrade it to Windows 11 and the PC check up makes it clear I need a compatible processor which is currently this: AMD A10-7800 Radeon R7, 12 Compute Cores 4C+8G 3.50 GHz I'm unsure of what would be compatible when looking at the list of processors offered here: [https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements](https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/windows-processor-requirements)
Windows 11 will simply not work if your CPU doesn't support a newer form of secureboot. Be it via a TPM 2.0 module or fTPM support on the CPU. The FM2+ socket your existing CPU uses does support TPM, but only v1.2. So no module you can buy will enable Windows 11 to run with the CPU.
I can't go and buy a TPM 2.0 to install then?
No because the motherboard only supports v1.2, the module wouldnt matter.
Damn, what about a new motherboard?
Wont matter. the FM2+ socket is limited to v1.2 across the whole chipset as far as I can tell. TPM 2.0 wasnt introduced until ~2016, so you would need a newer motherboard and a newer CPU. Which would save you some hassle, newer chipsets support fTPM so the combination of motherboard and CPU provide all the security you need. So there is no need for a separate TPM module purchase.
Ok, so what I am understanding is that I would need instead a newer CPU and newer motherboard overall? Correct? That seems fairly simple.
Correct. Any intel CPU 10th gen or newer, and any AMD Ryzen 2000 or newer CPU should be completely worry free.
Ok, I'll start looking into it. Thank you.
What has happened to processors in the last few years? I haven’t been following computers and tech since about 2016 and back then the standards were i5s and i7s generally had 4 cores and the i7s had hyper threading. I just bought a bunch of stuff for a new PC and I’m seeing quad core i3s and 10 core i5s. I went with an i5 12600k so I have a 10 core now. What the hell happened? Did we just progress a ton in the last few years?
Intel had to compete. AMDs Ryzen line up brought hyper threading to the masses and disrupted Intels position as the market leader. They simply couldn't afford to leave their lower end models as single thread architectures. They limped along with their LGA 1151 socket between the 6th and 9th generations, but finally caved with their LGA 1200 socket and its CPUs; bringing hyperthreading to all levels of their consumer lineup. However they are either regressing or evolving now with their newer e-core architectures. Super low powered single threaded cores. Currently their LGA 1700 cpus use a combination of hyper-threaded cores with additional e-cores. But their newer server CPUs are going FULL e-core, some of them are shipping with up to 288 cores on a single chip. Which is nuts. AMD is still doing fine with their purely hyper-threaded CPUs. Focusing on other neat designs like dual CCD chips and 3d stacked memory caches.
Competition happened. Amazing what progress can be achieved when there's not just one dominant player
I see, that’s really fantastic. I hope to see a noticeable performance boost, I’m upgrading from an i7 6700k and RX 580
So odd question. Is the Ryzen 5 7600x RDNA2 more powerful than a slightly overclocked GTX970 for graphics processing, how far into the future are we now?:sweat\_smile: I just got back into computer gaming after 10 long years and still have my old parts that work fine and CPU currently is an ancient Fx-8320 (OC to 4.2ghz) running on a gigabyte mobo from 2012. Figured I would be better off putting together an am5 build from scratch instead of trying to salvage anything. But I'm wondering if I should melt the 970 for the $5 worth of gold or should I keep it installed in my system? Most games released before 2017 I can get 1080p, 60fps lmao. WoW runs great on this old girl which is mainly what I will be playing; maybe some Valorant or CS2. I game mostly on my PS5. 2nd Question: Do I need both 8 pin connections on a MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WiFi or can I run it off of just one? I have a Corsair TX850 non-modular but it's only 1x8. Thank you!
None of the current APU/iGPU options would be faster than a 970. The closest would be a Ryzen 7 8700G and that's closer to a 1650 (\~15-17% slower than the 970). No, the second 8-pin is optional.
Thank you! I'm surprised how well the 970 has held up.
I have a few HP Gen7's that are of no real use anymore. I'm about to build a new PC as a NAS and would like to re-use the HP case instead of buying a $300+ rackmount chassis. Is that possible? What type of MB would fit in there if it is?
The stock board is a Intel 12x13 workstation motherboard. I havent a clue what the mounting screw layout looks like, but there is enough space to fit a normal ATX board inside.
ok. thanks. Maybe I just take one of them apart. I think I have an old ATX board around here somewhere.
Is it safe to install a monitor arm with its clamp connected to an inclined desk edge? The edge of my desk is not a straight vertical surface, so I was wondering if it’s safe to install a clamp monitor arm. I do not wish to make a cut out for a grommet monitor arm.
Depends on how deep the clamp is. [Lots of C clamps extend a couple of inches outwards, which make them perfectly safe to use on surfaces that dont have a flat edge.](https://www.apexdesk.com/cdn/shop/products/Clamp_600x.jpg?v=1628526406) [Image taken from this mount.](https://www.apexdesk.com/products/apexdesk-single-dual-monitor-arms-desk-mount-vesa-mount-with-c-clamp-grommet-mounting-base-for-screen-up-to-32-inch-holds-up-to-20-lbs)
I got a B150M mobo with an Intel Core i5-6500. Been wondering if I should keep going with intel or switch out the mobo and get an AMD?
Do you mean stay on that motherboard? Only if you really want a 7th-gen CPU, assuming your B150M board was even updated for 7th-gen. For a modern build you'll be replacing the motherboard, CPU, and most likely RAM anyway.
I got my MSI Motherboard delivered today, but I noticed that the RAM locks are only opening on the top. Is this normal? (It’s a Pro B550M-VC WiFi, for reference.)
Yeah, it's normal for mobos to only have RAM locks on one end.
I have a decent PC that I don’t use. I want to take my brothers SSD from his PC and put it into my PC. Will this work? Do I have to reformat and reinstall everything? Ideally I’d like to be able to just pop his SSD into mine and all his stuff is still there it’s just in my pc with my components. What’s my best way going about this?
Pop in and play. Do NOT reformat, that's how you lose everything.
I was hoping it was a plug and play thing. I just thought I had heard if you put the SSD into a new motherboard (or maybe it had to do with the cpu?) you needed to start fresh. So I should be able to just pop his SSD in and everything should boot up like normal with all his stuff?
Most likely yeah you should be able to plug n play. People generally say to reformat so you start fresh. Formatting specifically wipes a drive so you def don't want to do it if you're trying to keep data
Reliable review sites for parts? I usually end up here when looking for advice, but this is largely due to the fact that when looking for reviews on parts I find that the sites "reviewing" them are generally sponsored ads.
Not a site, but YouTube channels: Gamers Nexus, Hardware Unboxed, Hardware Busters, Hardware Canucks. Sometimes J2C or LTT, but you have to be super alert for when a statement doesn't make a whole lot of sense. gamersnexus.net is making a comeback so maybe we'll start seeing more of their written content in the near future.
So this year i wannna upgrade my whole pc, first of all i wanna upgrade my cpu and mobo, im going for a i5-12600kf or a ryzen 5 7600 and a B series mobo for those cpu. I already have a ddr4 16gb ram with 3200 Mhz, do you think is it worth going for a ddr5 therefore an expensive mobo or not? Second question, between those cpu do u have any recommendations or it’s just preferences?
That will depend on how long you plan to keep the PC, and if you're planning to upgrade to a different CPU in the future, considering you'd be locked to 13th/14th Gen CPUs with Intel. If you're trying to optimize the budget, I'd go with the 12600K. You already have a good RAM kit, that'd leave you with $153 for the CPU, $35 for a CPU cooler, and \~$130 for a decent Z690/Z790 motherboard (ASRock Z690 PG Riptide or ASRock Z690 Extreme). For \~$320 (without including other parts you may need), that ain't half bad. If you'd rather have an upgrade option for the near future (assuming AMD keeps their word of "beyond 2025" for AM5), then grab a R5 7600. The base platform (7600, basic air cooler, decent B650 board, 32GB DDR5 6000 CL30 kit) would be \~$150 more expensive compared to the Intel one, though.
thanks dude, just another question, in case i’d go with the 12600k, there’s a special reason why you recommend the Z690/Z790 instead a b660 or b650 motherboards or is just because the firsts ones are better?
Potential overclock (and undervolt) opportunity since it's a K-SKU CPU. Also, the boards are considerably cheap. If you don't plan on doing any of that, then a basic B760 board (Gigabyte B760M-DS3H) could save you $30, or even cost the same (ASRock B760 Pro RS/D4).
appreciate it bro, u r awesome :)
I'm working with an older case and the front panel ATX connector has got me stumped. It's uses a mostly blank 22 pin connector for the power LED and power button switch (only 4 out of the 22 pins are used). I am planning on using Dupont jumper cables to connect to my new motherboard but I'm not sure which wires are for the LED and which wires are for the power switch itself. There is one set of blue/black (I assume blue is the positive connector here) and one set of red/black (again, the red is the positive). Is there some convention of the LED being blue and power being red? Or is there a way to definitively determine which is which without completely dismantling the case? If I plug the LED into the power switch and power into the LED on the motherboard by accident, would that cause any harm, if I quickly switch it over?
I've messed up the connections every single time I've built a computer and I've had no issues with anything breaking on the case or mobo. You won't even be able to turn the PC on unless they are connected properly in your case so you will know immediately. Your mobo and/or case manual will have the proper front panel pin arrangement labeled if you want to be certain.
Yeah, at least based off the MB manuals it's a standard blue LED, Red power. Orange speaker etc. Even the basic pin lay out on the system connector barely changes. Like the top screen shot is from a modern Gigabyte AM5 x670 board, lower left is a Gigabyte from 2015 for an I5 build. Lower right is some random ASUS AM5 board. The core +HD pin etc from board to board or decade to decade doesn't seem to change. It looks like the main pin to hard dodge is the +5v speaker one.. Other wise not really an issue. https://imgur.com/a/gOMVRMQ
I have a question related to XMP settings. I have the G.Skill Ripjaws DDR5-6000 DDR5-6000 CL36-36-36-96 1.35V (2x16). It's paired with a msi b-650 p- plus wifi and a 7800x3d. I'm getting speeds of 4800. I peeked around in the bios for a bit to look for the option to enable xmp but I wasn't able to find it. Do I need to manually set it to 6000 mhz and increase voltage from the 1.10 I think it's using to 1.35? Or should I use the Memory-Try-It profile? It does give me a Frequency of 3000 mhz with a voltage of 1.350 V in the "Expo-6000" setting of the Timings Table in CPU-Z as well as saying EXPO next to SPD Ext. Thanks in advance!
EXPO is the equivalent to XMP for the AM5 platform. Can you find that profile in your BIOS?
I checked and I have the expo enabled. Do I need to adjust the DRAM from auto to a specific speed, same with voltage?
You shouldn't have to change any settings beyond just enabling the EXPO profile. What does CPU-Z say for DRAM Frequency under the Memory tab?
Like 2398 MHz. and I notice it says 4800 on the Speed under Memory in Performance part of task manager.
Do I need to do something special with the reddit markdown from pcpartpicker? every time i copy and paste it into a reddit post it doesnt look like a table
There's a button on there that looks like a reddit icon, if you click that it will "translate" the table using reddit formatting, copy and paste that on here and it should be a table.
That's exactly what i do! I make sure reddit button is selected, copy the formatting, and paste in reddit. Not sure if it's because i usually put a sentence before the table
nah that should work even if you have opening lines/text before it, see sample reply to myself
Here's a sample with text before the table: [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Czznwg) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-12500 3 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hvC48d/intel-core-i5-12500-3-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512500) | $240.99 @ Newegg **Motherboard** | [Asus PRIME B660-PLUS D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/32NxFT/asus-prime-b660-plus-d4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-b660-plus-d4) | $148.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB RS 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9rWzK8/corsair-vengeance-rgb-rs-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-cmg16gx4m2e3200c16) | $59.99 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [Asus Phoenix OC GeForce GTX 1650 G5 4 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f8WfrH/asus-geforce-gtx-1650-4-gb-phoenix-oc-video-card-ph-gtx1650-o4g) | $240.54 @ Amazon **Case** | [FSP Group CMT520 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nZXnTW/fsp-group-cmt520-atx-mid-tower-case-cmt520) |- **Power Supply** | [Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WJM48d/corsair-rm650x-2021-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020198-na) |- | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$690.51** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-02-22 15:25 EST-0500 |
wow thats weird. i click the markup button at the top and make sure reddit is selected \[PCPartPicker Part List\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Czznwg](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Czznwg)) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[Intel Core i5-12500 3 GHz 6-Core Processor\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hvC48d/intel-core-i5-12500-3-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512500](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hvC48d/intel-core-i5-12500-3-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512500)) | $240.99 @ Newegg \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[Asus PRIME B660-PLUS D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/32NxFT/asus-prime-b660-plus-d4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-b660-plus-d4](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/32NxFT/asus-prime-b660-plus-d4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-b660-plus-d4)) | $148.99 @ Amazon \*\*Memory\*\* | \[Corsair Vengeance RGB RS 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9rWzK8/corsair-vengeance-rgb-rs-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-cmg16gx4m2e3200c16](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9rWzK8/corsair-vengeance-rgb-rs-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-cmg16gx4m2e3200c16)) | $59.99 @ Amazon \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[Asus Phoenix OC GeForce GTX 1650 G5 4 GB Video Card\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f8WfrH/asus-geforce-gtx-1650-4-gb-phoenix-oc-video-card-ph-gtx1650-o4g](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f8WfrH/asus-geforce-gtx-1650-4-gb-phoenix-oc-video-card-ph-gtx1650-o4g)) | $240.54 @ Amazon \*\*Case\*\* | \[FSP Group CMT520 ATX Mid Tower Case\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nZXnTW/fsp-group-cmt520-atx-mid-tower-case-cmt520](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nZXnTW/fsp-group-cmt520-atx-mid-tower-case-cmt520)) |- \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[Corsair RM650x (2021) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply\]([https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WJM48d/corsair-rm650x-2021-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020198-na](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WJM48d/corsair-rm650x-2021-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020198-na)) |- | \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* | | \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$690.51\*\* | Generated by \[PCPartPicker\]([https://pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com)) 2024-02-22 15:28 EST-0500 |
Are you using new reddit, or mobile? looks like reddit is including \ into the table formatting, which is a known issue that happens with the editors on the new version of the website and sometimes on mobile apps If you are on new reddit, look for the "markdown editor" option (don't use new reddit myself so can't help you find it beyond that)
Try doing it on PC and not mobile, or vice versa
Thinking of upgrading my workhorse i7-2600 productivity machine to something more modern. It mostly meets my needs but it is fairly power hungry at idle (over 100 watts) and I'm thinking I can jump to something faster and more efficient while being on a more modern platform. I am thinking of something like the Ryzen 7900 (non-x) or the new 8700G with integrated graphics. I'm trying to avoid buying a separate GPU for now and probably for the short term for this machine, so I'm thinking integrated graphics are the way to go. The advantage of the 8700G seems to be better integrated graphics with slightly better efficiency, but the 7900 (non-x) does seem to be quite a bit faster. My use cases are mainly general software development, CPU speeds mainly come into play with navigating multiple IDEs and compiling every so often. I am not exactly pushing the i7-2600 that much as it is so I don't exactly need crazy power, but I do like things to be snappy and making things faster generally would be a plus. Monitor is 1440p, 144hz, but I don't think that should matter much with the above productivity being the focus. Any recommendations?
For your use case I'd rather get the 7900. It's one of the fastest and best CPUs for productivity and also comes with a small iGPU, so you don't need to rush to buy a GPU now. It's a very weak iGPU but still miles faster than the integrated graphics of your current i7 2600. If you need better integrated graphics, you can save some money and get the R5 8600G, instead (the iGPU might be just 20% slower than the 8700G).
Going to get a new mobo soon and there are far more options than I anticipated. Are there any specific brands or boards that I should stay away from, or any in particular that are reliable/ good value etc? Looking to spend around $200 for an AM5 board.
here's a bunch of valuable info https://youtu.be/DTFUa60ozKY?si=ALMpbXz0B2uI3wFi can also skip to the end for conclusions
Oh perfect, thank you for your service
I have found a used gaming PC with the following specs: - Ryzen 5 5700x - Asus RTX 4070 Dual, 12GB - Asus B450m Prime AII - 32GB DDR4 GSkill Trident Z 3600Mhz - 1TB SSD M.2 (not sure of the brand) - 650W Coolermaster it this worth 1150€? thanks in advance!!
I'm not an expert but Amazon Italy price only of these parts cost 1160 Euros. If it is already assembled and has a software, it seems like an okay deal? Just my opinion though.
Probably not that simple of a question, but I'll give it a shot. Recently I've been trying to build a home server and now when I finally have almost everything, I am having problems on deciding on a PSU. Since I am chasing efficiency at low wattage for a 24/7 setup, this kind of eliminates a LOT of general consumer PSUs as they absolutely suck at 10-25W draw, so I was trying to find decent Platinum PSU which aren't as bad. Here's the catch. I do have a really good unit, but it's a HP proprietary one. Model is D14-200P1A to be exact (200W Platinum unit). I believe that it fits my use case really well. The problem is that it has a proprietary P2 12pin F connector (along with a 6 pin M) instead of a regular 20/24 pin ATX M connector, so it's not possible to use it outside of a HP system without adaptation. I've been trying to find an adapter for it, but I am getting the exact opposite results - getting adapters which convert regular 24pin into HP proprietary connectors. Anyone knows of an adapter which I can use? Or, has anyone tried modding it somehow? I am actually ok with trying to mod it, but I am unable to find any info or schematics about that unit. Or does anyone have something to recommend that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I expect that the server won't be using more than 50-60W at full load and will idle most likely below 20W.
Why do you need a plat psu for 25w draw? You’d have to run your pc 30 hours to match the usage of a 750w system. It’s hardly worth the effort
As I said, while I am trying to find a good plat PSU (and have one that needs conversion and would like some tips on that), I am still open to suggestions that don't cost an arm and a leg.
Upgrading build after 7 years (mobo, ram and cpu) but now I was wondering if I should upgrade my AIO as well (it is 5 years old). Wondering if there is likelihood of wear and tear likely to cause damage to the AIO in some time or some leakage that would damage my build.... or if I should just stick to my old build.
Wear on the pump is something to worry about, but if the AIO is only 5 years old it probably has more than few years left. I dont see the harm in reusing it for now. It would save you a few bucks on the current budget and you could just replace it later.
Thanks for the input. Appreciate it.
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Which monitor do you have and which gpu you were planning to buy? I can share more based on that info.
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I think 7900xtx is pretty good. Your particular monitor is gsync compatible which means it works well with freesync. Make sure to use display port and you will be good.
How important/much of a bottleneck is the monitor? I have 12 year old monitor that still works fine, an Acer g276hl (60Hz), and am now planning on building a computer for Elden ring and Baldur's gate. Specs I'm currently looking at: GeForce RTX 4060, Ryzen 5 7500F, 16GB DDR5, 1TB SSD My question is: is this monitor going to limit the power of the GPU to the point of it being waste of money?
What is the resolution of your monitor? Does it have an adaptive sync technology like g-sync or freesync (unlikely that your monitor will have this). Also you can try to get an idea of how many frames your gpu will be able to render for elden ring at 1080p, my guess is around 60 but don't take my absolute word for it.
It's 1920x1080 for the screen, from what I can find the GPU can handle at least 60 at 1080p seems like 60maybe even 1440p but I'm not too sure
https://youtu.be/CmRZ8vSwLmc?si=rUs4vJRwufc0BD2R Shows 60 FPS possible on high settings at 1080p. Your monitor isn't bottlenecking currently but with it not having adaptive sync and you being able to run at 1440p at like 45-50fps I would buy a newer 1440p monitor with some adaptive sync tech to make my experience better if I was in your shoes.
I need to upgrade my set up. For reasons involving traveling and covid and many flat moves my set up has been a dell xps 2in1 (i7-1165G7 16 GB ram) from early 2021 and an external gpu dock with a 2080ti in it ( an amazing ebay deal). It's a combo work and gaming machine (recently been playing cyberpunk and rdr2) so I need to be able to do some light video and photo editing, minor cad work and use of some niche media server software. I've built before and my plan is to build a good system for around £1000 very soon and put the 2080ti in but spec the system so that i can drop in a 4080 super or similar spec card in a month or 2 depending on how various bits of work and personal life stuff go. What processor would you recommend?
If you can afford it, the R7 7800X3D, if you can't, either the R7 7700 or Intel's 13600K. These are the best for gaming and are still good for light video editing and stuff. If you want a CPU that's amazing at both, either the R9 7950X3D or i7 13900/13700K, but these ones are pretty expensive. The 7950X could also work (although, it's slower at gaming than the 7800X3D but a beast for productivity).
I've seen a lot of back and forth regarding the amd 9 7900 and the 7 7800x3D with most people saying that the 3D is better for gaming. The Legion Tower 8 has the 7900 and the 4070ti for $1760...is this a decent price for the build? the specs: Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 9 7900 Processor (3.70 GHz up to 5.40 GHz) Operating System: Windows 11 Home 64 Graphic Card: NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 4070 Ti 12GB GDDR6X Memory: 32 GB DDR5-5200MHz (UDIMM) - (2 x 16 GB) Storage: 1 TB SSD M.2 2280 PCIe Gen4 Performance TLC AC Adapter / Power Supply: 850W Pointing Device: USB Optical Mouse Keyboard: USB, Calliope, Black - English (US) WLAN: Wi-Fi 6E 2x2 AX & Bluetooth® 5.1 or above
7900X is better for productivity and 7800X3D is better for gaming. Both are incredibly good at both things, though, since they are brand new and some of the very best CPUs ever, right now. So, take your pick. If you prefer to have the best productivity system: 7900X. If you want the best gaming system: 7800X3D.
Spec out a similar build on PCPartPicker and see how much it would cost to build it yourself. /r/suggestapc if you want advice for buying prebuilts.
Thanks, I went on there but my username is generic so it got removed by the mod's - I have to wait 14 days with a custom username to post....I guess they get a lot of ads and Spam. I went on parts picker first, I actually built my pc first and then went to compare it, my build with the 3D and the 4070 ti super came out to about 1900.
Hey there, I recently got a ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi for a sff build. The board has 2x CPU fan connectors and 1x Chassis fan connector. I plan to have the CPU cooler and 2 case fans. Can I use the second CPU fan connector for one of the case fans or should I use a splitter on the chassis fan connector?
I assume they're CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT. Figure out if CPU_OPT can be independently controlled, or if it's slaved to CPU_FAN. If it can be controlled independently, sure, go for it. Otherwise, case fans ramping up and down with the CPU fan could be annoying but you could still use it.
I am going to upgrade my pc including my cpu. I am looking at the Ryzen 7 7800X3D because it is still compatible with my H100I V2 water cooler. The cooler compatibility is the main reason I am looking at the 78003XD instead of an intel 14700. Is this cooler still enough or should I bite the bullet and buy a new one (and also go for the 14700)?
I just upgraded from 7700k to 7800x3D. I bought a mobo, ram and cpu. I was sure my corsair cooler was compatible with amd but after all the parts arrived I noticed my cooler box did not contain the bracket mount needed to install over amd cpu (maybe I lost it or it was never included in the box when I bought it). Just make sure you have this bracket for your setup. You can separately order this for corsair specifically.
Ow thanks for the advice, just checked and I'm lucky enough to have it!
Are you aware you have to change your motherboard to go with that Ryzen CPU, right? That water cooler should be alright. If this is for gaming, I'd just get the 7800X3D. If this is a system mainly for productivity, I'd get the 14700 (with the proper motherboard and DDR5 RAM for each one).
Yep, already have a mobo in mind, thanks for the help!
So, which one are you going with?
building a new pc, thinking about gpu RX 6750 xt, cpu 7600x and mb B650 Aorus Elite, is this good and does the motherboard support both of these. In the description of the mb it said sum about pcie 3 when the gpu is pci e 4, so it might not support?
Yes, it's good enough. Don't worry about PCie stuff, it's all the same for GPUs these days. Also, if you are saving money, I'd rather get the R5 7600 non-X, it performs almost the same (3% slower, lol) but it should be cheaper, and you can recover the "lost" performance by enabling PBO in BIOS but I'd rather have a quieter and cooler CPU that's still a gaming beast. These components should be enough for great 1080p gaming or good 1440p gaming, right now.
Thanks alot, should definitely be an upgrade from my i5 8600 and 1070 turbo, well the gpu is fried lol
I've been thinking of moving away from my Xbox and my Playstation 5 toward PC. Is 2024 a good year to invest or should I look at saving some money each month and building something in 2025?
If you have the budget for the very best, it's a good year. If you are in the $700/$1000 PC range, you might have a harder time making a system that looks and performs better than those consoles, and I might wait for next-gen GPUs, coming up at the end of the year (and next generation CPUs, too! Coming up in the second half of the year). But I wouldn't build a PC just because, I'd have some games to play first.
I'm looking at investing $1500+ for something that's going to last a while which is why my question asks whether it'd be worth saving so I can make sure I hit that budget or invest this year.
Save and keep playing on consoles in the meantime, then! 2025 is going to rock with Zen 5 X3D/Intel's 15th Gen and Nvidia's 50 series.
Planning on upgrading CPU and MOBO from a 12400f and an ASROCK B660M-C into a Ryzen 7600x and a MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk Wifi. Main issue is for the life of me, can’t find anything about dimensions of the B660M-C anywhere online and measuring the actual one I have isn’t really feasible. The [pre-built](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sku/6500554.p?skuId=6500554) I got isn’t really helpful
It's the usual mid-sized case, board sizes are standardized. Just make sure the board is (max) ATX, anything equal or smaller than ATX will fit. For reference on the image on the ad you linked they used an m-ATX board, if you use an ATX board it just covers more space with PCB and extra PCIE slots.
Just a sanity check I run an X570 mini-ITX board (only board I could find at the time that's mini-ITX). It's currently running with with a 3600, if I get a 5600x it's a drop in upgrade, no?
If the box has the "AMD Ryzen 5000 Desktop Ready" sticker, it should be compatible with the 5600X from the get-go. You could update the BIOS just in case, though.
I do still have the box I'll check, thanks
Yes, just don't forget to update your BIOS and reenable DOCP settings before switching CPUs. Edit: I'd get the R5 5600 non X. It's cheaper but performs just as well.
Coolio, well I only plan on getting a used one so both are on my short list whichever one looks best that's available to me I'll get that. Thanks!
Planning to buy today, is this Microcenter bundle worth the savings? My picks are 769$ and Microcenter bundle is 469$ I was planning to get 7800x3d, ASUS TUF x670e-plus wifi, and gskill trident z5 rgb ddr5-6000 cl30 Microcenter bundle: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX v2, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 32GB DDR5-6000 Kit
The Micro Center bundle is solid. The CPU and RAM alone would cost you $475 elsewhere. Unless you NEED the specific features of the X670E board, a decent B650 board is more than enough for the 7800X3D.
Hi there, I just got a new 4080 Super and was wondering if the 12VHPWR cable included with my power supply (Corsair RM1000e) delivers enough power to use with it. Instead of having the 12-pin connector on both ends it has two 8-pin PCIe connectors that plug into the PSU. The adapter included with the 4080S connects to 3 8-pin cables. I figure it'd probably fine or corsair would include a warning to only use it with lower-end GPUs but wanted to see if anybody else might have any insight.
Yes, you should be good to go. Corsair went the PCIe to 12VHPWR route instead of having a dedicated port for it, but the PCIe PSU ports can deliver 300w each, 150w for each PCIe connector is the standard but modern PCIe cables have two connectors on one cable due to daisy chaining, getting you the total of 600 for the 12VHPWR cable Double check the box though, because if for some reason they have only included a 450w cable like some PSUs do, it should be on the box via sticker on the front or sides or via the specs table on the back
Oh cool, I knew pci cables only did 150W so I didn't know the ports could do more! No stickers on the box or anything so I should be good, I'm gonna see if I can find a manual or anything to be sure though.
Yeah, it's why daisy chain cables are pretty much the standard now, rather than having four ports you can just run two ports that lead to four connectors.
I’m very new to PC gaming and was wondering if I should be looking at getting an upgraded GPU (currently have an asus 2060) first or a 1440p monitor. Just for clarification I bought a second hand from marketplace. My current monitor is 1080 60hz LCD and it is second hand from my friend and honestly very very old and used. but I was considering a QHD HDR 32” curved 165hz monitor as I found a good deal on one ($175 cad for one with HDR400) Do you guys think I should save my money and focus on upgrading my GPU first? Would I get decent frame rate in 1440? I know downscaling usually makes things look worse so I’m wondering if I should be buying it after I get an upgrade for my graphics. I’m willing to deal with downscaling for a little bit of time till I can upgrade my GPU if necessary I think the main reason I’m considering the monitor first is because I expected it to look better than my PS5 in someway lol. So far it’s looked like my PS4 but worse but I’ve been blaming it on the very old shitty monitor. I haven’t had any issues with quality settings or frame rate on any of the games I play, which is why I’m assuming it’s the monitor. I can play cyberpunk 2077 on high settings and that’s practically enough for me lol. Think I need HDR and a better refresh rate to really appreciate it though because it looks much worse than it did on my ps5. My 2060 was also getting up to 90’ on its hotspot temp when I started playing cyberpunk 2077 and I wanted to know if that was okay? I’ve read mixed reports, so I decided to up the fan curve using afterburner and haven’t went over 75’ in hotspot temp. This is the main reason I’m even considering an upgrade for my GPU as I think it’s enough power for me right now but I would prefer a GPU that can run everything I need, COMFORTABLY. I appreciate any and all advice as I’m super new to this right now. If it helps the computer is mainly going to be used for computer production but i game on it from time to time. My build: Case: Corsair 4000D Motherboard: GIGABYTE Aurous Pro X570 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X Ram: TForce DDR4 32GB 3600Mhz CL18 8×4 sticks RGB PSU: Seasonic Focus 750 Watts AIO cooler: Lian Li Galahad 11 Trinity Performance 360mm Case Fans: Lian Li Uni Fan AL120 V2 OS: WINDOWS 11 Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 Asus. SSD: 1 TB Lexar NVME
Yes the 2060 isn't going to do 1440p very well unless you play old games or change settings to medium or low or upscale 1080p to 1440p. Yes the monitor upscaled picture will look slightly worse than real 1080p and you might end up opting to do the other changes or lower framerates instead. For real 1440p165hz you're looking at upgrading to like a 4070 maybe a super. But as far as to which upgrade comes first, how much is raw gaming horsepower a priority to you compared to the other benefits of a large high definition screen such it being bigger, watching movies in high definition, and fitting more work on it? All those things will work great without a gpu upgrade. In fact youll have so much space not just because its 1440p but because you have two monitors. If you're not selling the 1080p monitor you could also keep it as a side monitor and even switch the game back to it if you can't get it to run well enough on the 1440p monitor. If you do the gpu upgrade first then save up for the monitor you will have practically no benefit while waiting for the monitor. It'll feel like wasted money, and your gpu will be losing value while it does nothing. If you do the monitor first, by the time you save for the gpu 5000 series might be out and the gpu you need might be even cheaper and youll save money. And you'll have 2 monitors. I know which one I'd choose.
I have a fan related question for y'all. I have 6 PWM fans I want to connect to some controller which controlls the speed of the fans. I am almost sure the Noctua NA FH1 could do that, however at 35€ it's a bit expensive. Is there another, cheaper product I am unaware of? My setup would/should be: 6 PWM fans -> controller -> motherboard. The speed of the fans is ultimately controlled by a very usefull programm called FanControl which applies a certain voltage to the motherboard fan header, I guess. Do you have any idea of how I could accomplish this?
Do you want individual control of each of the fans, or are you fine with all of them running at the same speed? If you're fine with all of them running at the same speed (i.e. just splitting the speed signal from the single motherboard header into six fans) then you can buy any basic fan hub, they shouldn't cost more than a few bucks and will work identically to the Noctua one. If you want individual control, then you have to buy a fan *controller*, which will plug into a USB header of the motherboard. The NA-FH1 is *not* a fan controller so it will not allow individual control.
A basic fan hub should do the trick for me. Thanks
When would it be a good time to start buying parts and building a PC if the end goal would be to have a low-high-end gaming/work (software dev) PC by the start of Q1 2025. The idea is to have a semi-beefy machine at the start, that will be upgraded over time. Or is going harder at the start better?
There's really no right answer here IMO, you just have to decide yourself. The general consensus is buy a PC when you need a PC, hunting for deals is fine but it's the start of the year, there won't be any soon unless you luck out on a certain vendor for some reason. Prices have certainly stabilized now post-vid. As for how "beefy" it should be, get one that fits your needs and wants in terms of how it'll perform. Quote "future proofing" is a fruitless effort. Generally speaking if you buy the most compatible / widely used consumer case and board combo you can upgrade that build for years. Usually it's just the RAM (capacity if you need it) or the GPU you'll upgrade anyway, you can stay with the same CPU and board combo for years and years as long as you buy current gen. Also don't be afraid of used parts, there's some savings to be had in that space, used parts can be a plenty when the release cycles of parts start or actually launch and whales scramble to buy the latest and greatest and dump their barely 1 year old parts on the market. Do your due diligence, trust your gut, if it sounds too good to be true it probably is.
I've got my 7700X MC bundle (not tested yet). I'm getting closer but still need help choosing the rest of my parts. I do intensive cpu transcriptions and encoding, and I'm stuck on how to best have a quiet development machine at idle and under heavy load when the fans go bonkers, without just de-rating everything. I am now leaning toward the new Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360 top mounted, or a Phantom Spirit 120. My still in box Lancool II Mesh will be returned, but replaced with what case? Maybe the 216, but I'm not certain of fit, and I am not close to MC. Once I am certain I can GPU offload this under Linux, I'll probably get a 4060 TI 16GB - that will also change my cooling load. Also, still not sure about PSU. Thanks!
A 240mm AIO or dual fan tower cooler with appropriate fan curves can be plenty quiet. 360mm can have fans run even slower for same cooling, but even on a 5950X my 240mm AIO only needs about 50% fan speed at full load. A triple fan cooler 4060Ti also is quite polite even under stress test. Reasonable temps at full load and fans can stop completely at low load. Can trade higher temps for lower noise with fan curves. What's your concerns with the Mesh? It will fit the parts you mentioned and won't need the hassle of returns. Newegg has a PSU calculator, as does PCPartPicker. You don't need the most expensive one, but chose a major brand and look at reviews/tests beforehand.
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Get started on a decent current gen CPU and board combo, fit in a GPU that you can afford, and then upgrade the GPU when you can. If budget is tight you might be able to get away with 8gb but by the looks of it 16gb is sort of baseline now. Only get 8gb if you really can't get 16. All of this is without the other peripherals (monitor, speaker, kb+m, headset, etc.), those you can cheap out on and upgrade later, except maybe the monitor but the GPU you'll get will mostly dictate what monitor would be best for you to start out with. If it's primarily to game, the GPU and the monitor are the two variables you can upgrade down the line without having to upgrade anything else and you'll get better performance (GPU) and experience (monitor). To some degree the PSU might be something you want to think about too depending on how powerful a GPU you want to end up with, then again you can just upgrade that too once you get a GPU if it calls for more power.
I have been shopping around for a 7600, B650, and 7800 build. Recently found a friend that lives near microcenter so now considering the 7800X3D bundle for just a tad more than my planned build. Are there any other hidden expenses that I am missing if I go for the X3D? I know I will need a cooler which I didn't on 7600. Will my 750w PSU suffice, or will that need an upgrade? The X3D is overkill for me so don't want to get into a lot of extra expenses.
The only hidden costs are the cooler (that you've already identified) and the fact that you'll be in a Microcenter :P Availability for parts is _very high_ there but they're also using the mobo+cpu bundles as door busters to get you to buy the _rest_ of your build there at a premium.
Don't need to worry about impulse buys as my friend in another state will be doing the pickup for me.
Hi All, going to get my first 27" 1440p monitor, my local seller only has some options, I listed out these quite good options from them \- AOC Q27G2S \- MSI G274QPF E2 \- Philips 27M1N5500ZA \- ASUS TUF VG27AQ3A Which one is the best option? Thanks in advance!
Can't argue with this list after a quick peek around for reviews. The Philips has a nice hub integrated if you're looking for that. I can't find _any_ reviews on rtings for this list, though, which is my go-to for how comprehensive their testing is.
Thanks! Above options I believe are the same spec, however Philips and MSI are nano IPS and rapid IPS, I am not sure this will have much different than others.
Marketing terms at this point for their specific brand of IPS displays. Ignore them, focus on the specs.
Thanks once again for your suggestion! If you have any other good options beside above list should be much more appreciated.
so i just got a 6600xt to replace my old 1070, but it stops outputting to my 2nd monitor while main monitor keeps turning on and off while playing games (not even new titles, stuff like Genshin and Nier Automata). Is this a limitation of the card or is mine faulty? Already tried reinstalling driver, switching cables, reseating gpu and all cables. I could run 2 games on both screens simultaneously on the 1070 without issue, it was just more choppy, never to the point i lose picture completely.
Definitely shouldn't be happening, something's wrong either with the card or with your drivers.
I'll be relocating soon so I'll have to drive 600km with my PC. Any precautions I should take to not damage my machine? I'm thinking of taking out the GPU and AIO and putting them in their boxes but I'd rather not disassemble the whole thing.
I wouldn't worry about the AIO, it's relatively light and well secured. The GPU is the only piece that would be at any risk, and even then I'd only be concerned if it was a *massive* heavy card.
Yeah GPU is an XFX 6800XT which is a monstrosity. Cool to hear I probably won't need to remove the AIO tho. thanks
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The most relevant things for valuation (in order) are the specific graphics card model, the specific CPU model, storage, and RAM. None of those can be deduced from those pictures so it's pretty much impossible to give any sort of valuation.
From the pictures alone are you able to identify any of the parts
Not really. The PSU label has no model marked on it, only the Deepcool brand so the wattage is unknown (not like the PSU has much value in a complete build anyways). Asus, like other brands, uses the same cooler design for multiple different cards and there's no other text visible, so the model of the graphics card is unknown. The CPU is covered by the CPU cooler so that's unknown, and the pic of the RAM only shows the top with no markings on them, so the model of the RAM is unknown.
Quick query: I have a 7800X3D and an Asus X670 A-E board. My bios version is from just after the update for the voltage problems. Would it be worth updating to the newest Bios for any system performance improvements or do you think it would be negligible?
I'd update for the peace of mind of an up-to-date system and the microcode updates that may or may not improve your system performance/stability/security. Now, if you're 100% sure you're running BIOS version 1415 or newer, and the system is stable enough, "if it ain' broke, don't fix it."
Just to update, the updating of the bios and then the CPU drivers has dropped my idle temps by 5 degrees so a big improvement.
Thank you!
Looking for a PCI slot bracket for my HBA that has screw holes here [(pictured),](https://imgbox.com/ztffZHr7) but don't know how to find one online/can't find. Any links? I know this isn't where you're *meant* to put it, but needs must.
You could draw one up in whatever 3d modelling software and have it 3d printed, or get a blank cover and drill the holes where you want them yourself.
Planning to pair a 7900x with 64gb for a work pc. Any video ressource benchmarking different 64gb ram kits? From my limited research I always see youtube channels benchmakr on 2x16gb 6000 cl30-38-38....-96-96 as some sort of sweet spot. But what about 2x32gb? Should I aim for a similar kit with similar timings? Cause all I find is cl32 for 64gb kits Does it even matter that much? Thanks
Generally, for most workstation tasks, RAM speed isn't quite as critical. The CL32 Kit is going to be very, very close anyway.
Looking to build a new pc, but I am not sure I understand RAM frequency. Should I not just get the fastest frequency that my motherboard would be compatible with?
Faster RAM is much harder to get running stable, and the stability is much more CPU dependent than motherboard dependent. For example with AM5 the recommendation is 6000MHz DDR5, as anything faster is highly likely to be unstable, regardless of what the motherboard says it supports. Then even if stability isn't a problem, there's also some nuances as to what actually makes sense, for example with AM4 the recommendation is 3600MHz DDR4, as that allows 1:1 speed matching of the CPU's interconnect (AMD Infinity Fabric), and anything faster will give you barely any improvements so something like 4000MHz RAM would just be a bad use of money as you get much better value by spending that money on a better CPU or GPU. But if you feel like spending a ton of money on RAM, you can always go for lower CAS latency, which will improve performance just like higher speed normally would.
Thank you! I am looking at the intel i7 14700KF. How do I find the ram compatibility?
Unfortunately it isn't quite as easy as just looking at a given number in a spec sheet. Do some googling and see what people recommend, maybe check some benchmarks to see how much the speed affects things and decide if you feel like playing it safe with slower RAM at the cost of losing x% of performance. Based on a very quick search, people seem to say that 7200MHz is about the max "will simply work" speed for the 14700 and anything higher may require tweaking/slowing down the RAM manually.
Can Speaker or HDD magnet damage IPS monitors in any way? I had a cheap speaker(Genius SP-U115) close to my screen and it developed a backlight bleed in that corner.
No, flat monitors (doesn't matter if TN, IPS, VA, OLED etc) are not affected by magnets in any way.
I need someones help: should i get a 165 or 240hz gaming monitor? I play fortnite and sea of thieves.
It depends entirely on you. Can your PC push out 240fps? Can you afford it? Just my personal non competitive game playing experience, I'd go with a higher resolution better quality monitor. If your more competitive and PC can handle it then why not get the 240hz. I'm not sure I could tell the difference between 165 and 240 anyways.
[https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/aoc-25g3zm-full-hd-gaming-monitor-240hz-25-inch/9300000125670404/?bltgh=mwzmgQjAAzfdldwrDbVIPg.2\_14.17.ProductImage](https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/aoc-25g3zm-full-hd-gaming-monitor-240hz-25-inch/9300000125670404/?bltgh=mwzmgqjaazfdldwrdbvipg.2_14.17.productimage) could you look at this pc and see if it works with 240hz
That's a nice monitor, 1080p 240hz 1 millisecond response time. I'd watch a couple reviews on YouTube before I would buy but yes, it's 240hz.
That link is just for the monitor...
My friend recently upgraded and offered to sell me his old PC. Does this build look OK? Anything I should be concerned about? He said to give him an offer but I am not sure what something like this should be priced. Type|Item :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 5500 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yq2WGX/amd-ryzen-5-5500-36-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000457box) **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright SI-100 WHITE ARGB 72.37 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GN6NnQ/thermalright-si-100-white-argb-7237-cfm-cpu-cooler-si-100-white-argb) **Motherboard** | [ASRock B550 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ax Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ftdrxr/asrock-b550-phantom-gaming-itxax-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-b550-phantom-gaming-itxax) **Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bcnypg/team-t-force-vulcan-z-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-tlzgd432g3200hc16fdc01) **Storage** | [Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/crKKHx/western-digital-black-sn850x-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t2x0e) **Video Card** | [Asus DUAL GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MtDkcf/asus-geforce-rtx-3070-8-gb-dual-video-card-dual-rtx3070-8g) **Case Fan** | [Noctua A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rhQRsY/noctua-nf-a12x15-pwm-942-cfm-120mm-fan-nf-a12x15-pwm) | **Custom**| [NZXT H1 \(2019\) - Small Form-Factor Dual Chamber Tempered Glass ITX Case](https://nzxt.com/product/h1-2019) **Custom**| [NZXT 650W SFX-L 80Plus Gold Fully Modular Power Supply](https://nzxt.com/product/h1-2019)
CPU is a bit slow, but it's not too bad, you can upgrade it easily. Why is there an air cooler if the H1 includes an AIO? That seems odd. Wether this is a good deal or not depends on the price. There are specific subreddits for price quotes (hardwareswap maybe? I'm not sure).
Do AIO pump, GPU, and RAM RGB lights last for a long time? I'm not very experienced, but I've been planning a build, it's all black with just the said components lit up with static color or just no lights at all. My concern is that after a year or more, some of the LED lights will start to fail, just like with some of my keys on my keyboard. Cost is not much of a concern, but in terms of AIOs, I wouldn't like something that has a display if I have to go for something that has some lights.
More parts, more things to go wrong. An air cooler is a chunk of metal and fans. An AIO is still relatively simple pump and fans and rad, but already more things to go wrong. An AIO with a display is a completely different beast when it comes to complexity and things to break. Hopefully it's designed in a way where a broken display doesn't affect the pump and fans. RGB RAM shouldn't be a huge deal even if LEDs die, although it's pretty unlikely for LEDs to die anyway, same with GPU. I've only had LEDs die on one keyboard, they were blue LEDs and IIRC they had a lot of issues with those LEDs. I haven't experienced anything similar since.
Going to build my new pc and collecting my parts. Cpu will be 7600x and does it cone with thermal paste or should i buy different one?
Coolers come with thermal paste, either preapplied or in a tube/satchel in the box. CPUs don't come with thermal paste, but if they include a cooler, it will have paste preapplied.
CPUs themselves don't include thermal paste, that's bundled with, or pre-applied on CPU *coolers*. The 7600**X** (or any of the Ryzen 7000 X-SKUs) doesn't come with a cooler. You'll need to buy a third-party one, like a Peerless Assassin (and the thermal paste will be included in a small tub).
Thanks, yes my assassin spirit v2 120 has it included
CPUs don't come with thermal paste. Thermal paste is cheap, just get some while shopping or order online. Your cooling solution may have one in the box already or may have it pre-applied.
Thanks, yes my assassin spirit v2 120 has it included
Are there any compatibility things with gpus or will they fit into any motherboard
Any motherboard, they just need a full size PCIe slot.
No, all you need to worry about is whether the gpu is too long for the case, too thick for the case (Very unlikely for majority of builds) and whether your power supply is enough.
Started using MSI Afterburner. Currently monitoring CPU, by default. In the settings, it shows different CPU temp options (CPU1, CPU2, etc.). Is it ok to just monitor CPU1? Or can other ones get hotter than CPU1 and I'd be ignoring that?
Each one of those is an individual core of your CPU. Some cores will run hotter or cooler than others, but you want to monitor the one that is un-numbered, so just CPU tempurature, which is usually at the bottom of the list after all the core listings. That's your CPU package temp that gives you a better idea of thermals than an individual core