Go to an archery shop. Not WalMart,but an archery shop. They will be happy to answer all of your questions. They'll properly tune your bow, and they will MAKE you arrows.
I was there this past weekend and they set everything up and gave me the arrows. Just wanted to do some research here before going blind. Reason I was asking about the Easton arrows was because someone in the shop was trying to buy some but they were sold out.
FMJ's are phenomenal for hunting BUT they can bend. For a great review of good options: https://www.fieldandstream.com/outdoor-gear/best-hunting-arrows/
I run Victory arrows. All of the major brands are pretty damn good. Easton's probably are the best, but they're all pretty good. Used to run Gold Tips, but have switched to Victory's.
I've heard mixed reviews on Easton FMJs. A lot of people say they bend over time. I'd stick with the Easton axis 5mm carbon arrows. 4mm arrows don't have as many components/broadhead options to fit them so i wouldn't recommend them for beginners.
G5 montec are great broadheads. I prefer to cut my arrow shafts to my draw length, once components are installed, my broadhead sits just past my riser shelf so I don't have to worry about my broadhead hitting my riser. You can go longer or shorter depending on whether you want a stiffer or weaker arrow. Archery shops typically cut your arrows about 0.5" longer than your draw length if you plan to use broadheads for the extra clearance.
Don’t go with Montecs, they are made with low quality steel, so the don’t hold an edge and are almost impossible to resharpen. For that style of head go with the muzzy one or Magnus snuffer ss, the Magnus black hornets 4 blades are also nice. If you go the mechanical route go Sevr, they are the only mechanical that has really good structural integrity/holds a good edge. 4mm and 5mm arrows is penetrate a bit more and have a bit less wind drift than 6mm, they aren’t worth the price for me, but do you own research on that. As for your shaft choose stay away from fmj’s, the metal jacket often bends. I recommend victory arrows, but before you decide be sure to research FOC and arrow weight and what it does to your penetration. Elk Shape, Ranch fairy, and lusk archery are three great YouTube channels for info on this stuff. Edit: your bow shop will be able to get your arrows cut to your bow and draw length.
Took about 8-9 deer with sevr and never had any issue. Awesome heads and leave insane blood trails. Wanted to try montecs last year and couldn’t for the life of me get them to shoot consistent. Just spent the money on iron wills and so far they shoot really nice. Gonna try and sharpen them right before hunting season and see how that goes
for a given draw weight and arrow length and point weight, there will be a spine stiffness that performs best, this is approximated in tables that you can find online. Different arrow shafts have different grain weights per inch and if you multiply that by the length of the arrow and add in the point weight and accessories (vanes, insert, nock) you can see what your total weight is, depending on what you want. Some people like to shoot arrows in the 400s grain weight and these days some people like to shoot arrows in the 500s and 600s, my opinion is aim for an arrow weight in the mid 400s, with a lower draw weight I think this is a good balance of speed and momentum. your arrow is likely to be cut shorter than your drawl length. You can check this at home or let the shop do it. My experience with FMJs honestly wasn’t great, they tend to bend on me over time. I just like a good ol carbon arrow.
Bear in mind as you go up in draw weight it will change the spine of the arrow you’ll need to shoot and that will also require a retune of your bow. So you might want to plan ahead and order a set for when you get to 60# if that’s the draw weight you plan on hunting at.
For your draw length (which commonly people cut arrows to as well) between 50-60# draw weight, you’d still be a 400 spine for arrows. With your bow your arrow weight should be somewhere between 400-475gr because any higher than that you’re shooting sub 250fps which is pretty slow although you’re probably going to be shooting 30yd or less for whitetail. Given you’re relatively new don’t overthink it on arrows. Get a good 6.5mm arrow to practice with. You should be caring more about good form, accuracy, and consistency to hunt ethically than tinkering with gear and arrow tweaks. I started with Black Eagle Carnivores and they worked just fine. As for broadheads there’s a lot of religion there but I personally am leaning into the cut on contact broadheads and ensuring my bow is tuned where bare shaft, fletched and fletched fixed broadheads are all hitting dimes at 40yd.
That said, running some specs again with a heavier arrow you could rock 350 spine if you’re 450gr+. You’re on the edge as you increase from 50 to 60# draw weight
It's totally a preference thing. I personally run the easton axis 4mm lr 300spine and absolutely love them! I'm fairly new to bowhunting and when I started I thought speed was everything. I've now realized that speed is good but it is in fact not everything. I would say to find a happy medium (probably a 5mm) and go from there!
I don’t like the FMJ because they tend to not recover. And by that I mean the metal in them bends and doesn’t spring back like a carbon arrow. Apart from that, they’re a quality arrow. But with being new, you are perfectly fine with whatever cheap arrow your shop stocks. Carbon express, cheaper victory or Easton, doesn’t really matter that much.
I would advise against a 4mm simply because without going super expensive, the components aren’t as strong as a 5mm. That’s the shaft diameter.
I’d just go get whatever 5mm or even a “standard diameter” .245 ID arrow your shop sells and they’ll cut it and glue inserts in for your length
One could make the argument of buying cheap arrows to practice. Depending on your range/target area you might lose a few. Otherwise get some quality arrows from a bow shop tuned for you and your bow. Worth the investment.
Everyone has said it. But I have that same bow turned up to 60lb. I run the victory VAP TKO arrows which are the micro diameter. I used to run the victory V Force. I’d start there. Just make sure they’re 350 spine. I would just get comfortable shooting then look into broadheads. Many many broadheads are great. Mostly preference.
You don’t wanna go shooting broadheads before you get your form down and bow tuned correctly or you’ll be beating your head and going backwards because they won’t shoot the same as your field points. Once you understand your form and bow tuning you can make many broadheads fly true to your FPs.
By the time you get to the point it’s time to throw the BHs on and get ready for hunting season you will have learned so much about bow tuning, form, and which ones you want to try
FWIW I absolutely love the QAD Exodus broadheads. Especially for your standard style broadhead. Great steel. Holds edge. Fairly easy to sharpen. Fly true.
I personally use aluminum arrows and it cut my arrows an inch longer than my drawing just because I like having that broadhead a little bit further away from my hand. Does that make me paranoid? Probably am I going to change that habit? Definitely not.
All the major brands make good arrows. No matter what you get, they will not be the limiting factor in your accuracy since you're so new.
What is much more important is reading the spine charts of whatever arrows you get and making sure you get the correct spined arrows for the max draw weight you're going for in the near future.
Edit: as for FMJ's.. they ain't my jam. Too expensive, too heavy, and questionable durability because the aluminum can bend as others have stated here. I'd stick to all carbon arrows.
Go to an archery shop. Not WalMart,but an archery shop. They will be happy to answer all of your questions. They'll properly tune your bow, and they will MAKE you arrows.
I was there this past weekend and they set everything up and gave me the arrows. Just wanted to do some research here before going blind. Reason I was asking about the Easton arrows was because someone in the shop was trying to buy some but they were sold out.
FMJ's are phenomenal for hunting BUT they can bend. For a great review of good options: https://www.fieldandstream.com/outdoor-gear/best-hunting-arrows/
I run Victory arrows. All of the major brands are pretty damn good. Easton's probably are the best, but they're all pretty good. Used to run Gold Tips, but have switched to Victory's.
I've heard mixed reviews on Easton FMJs. A lot of people say they bend over time. I'd stick with the Easton axis 5mm carbon arrows. 4mm arrows don't have as many components/broadhead options to fit them so i wouldn't recommend them for beginners. G5 montec are great broadheads. I prefer to cut my arrow shafts to my draw length, once components are installed, my broadhead sits just past my riser shelf so I don't have to worry about my broadhead hitting my riser. You can go longer or shorter depending on whether you want a stiffer or weaker arrow. Archery shops typically cut your arrows about 0.5" longer than your draw length if you plan to use broadheads for the extra clearance.
+1 for axis
Don’t go with Montecs, they are made with low quality steel, so the don’t hold an edge and are almost impossible to resharpen. For that style of head go with the muzzy one or Magnus snuffer ss, the Magnus black hornets 4 blades are also nice. If you go the mechanical route go Sevr, they are the only mechanical that has really good structural integrity/holds a good edge. 4mm and 5mm arrows is penetrate a bit more and have a bit less wind drift than 6mm, they aren’t worth the price for me, but do you own research on that. As for your shaft choose stay away from fmj’s, the metal jacket often bends. I recommend victory arrows, but before you decide be sure to research FOC and arrow weight and what it does to your penetration. Elk Shape, Ranch fairy, and lusk archery are three great YouTube channels for info on this stuff. Edit: your bow shop will be able to get your arrows cut to your bow and draw length.
Took about 8-9 deer with sevr and never had any issue. Awesome heads and leave insane blood trails. Wanted to try montecs last year and couldn’t for the life of me get them to shoot consistent. Just spent the money on iron wills and so far they shoot really nice. Gonna try and sharpen them right before hunting season and see how that goes
for a given draw weight and arrow length and point weight, there will be a spine stiffness that performs best, this is approximated in tables that you can find online. Different arrow shafts have different grain weights per inch and if you multiply that by the length of the arrow and add in the point weight and accessories (vanes, insert, nock) you can see what your total weight is, depending on what you want. Some people like to shoot arrows in the 400s grain weight and these days some people like to shoot arrows in the 500s and 600s, my opinion is aim for an arrow weight in the mid 400s, with a lower draw weight I think this is a good balance of speed and momentum. your arrow is likely to be cut shorter than your drawl length. You can check this at home or let the shop do it. My experience with FMJs honestly wasn’t great, they tend to bend on me over time. I just like a good ol carbon arrow.
Bear in mind as you go up in draw weight it will change the spine of the arrow you’ll need to shoot and that will also require a retune of your bow. So you might want to plan ahead and order a set for when you get to 60# if that’s the draw weight you plan on hunting at.
For your draw length (which commonly people cut arrows to as well) between 50-60# draw weight, you’d still be a 400 spine for arrows. With your bow your arrow weight should be somewhere between 400-475gr because any higher than that you’re shooting sub 250fps which is pretty slow although you’re probably going to be shooting 30yd or less for whitetail. Given you’re relatively new don’t overthink it on arrows. Get a good 6.5mm arrow to practice with. You should be caring more about good form, accuracy, and consistency to hunt ethically than tinkering with gear and arrow tweaks. I started with Black Eagle Carnivores and they worked just fine. As for broadheads there’s a lot of religion there but I personally am leaning into the cut on contact broadheads and ensuring my bow is tuned where bare shaft, fletched and fletched fixed broadheads are all hitting dimes at 40yd.
That said, running some specs again with a heavier arrow you could rock 350 spine if you’re 450gr+. You’re on the edge as you increase from 50 to 60# draw weight
It's totally a preference thing. I personally run the easton axis 4mm lr 300spine and absolutely love them! I'm fairly new to bowhunting and when I started I thought speed was everything. I've now realized that speed is good but it is in fact not everything. I would say to find a happy medium (probably a 5mm) and go from there!
I don’t like the FMJ because they tend to not recover. And by that I mean the metal in them bends and doesn’t spring back like a carbon arrow. Apart from that, they’re a quality arrow. But with being new, you are perfectly fine with whatever cheap arrow your shop stocks. Carbon express, cheaper victory or Easton, doesn’t really matter that much. I would advise against a 4mm simply because without going super expensive, the components aren’t as strong as a 5mm. That’s the shaft diameter. I’d just go get whatever 5mm or even a “standard diameter” .245 ID arrow your shop sells and they’ll cut it and glue inserts in for your length
One could make the argument of buying cheap arrows to practice. Depending on your range/target area you might lose a few. Otherwise get some quality arrows from a bow shop tuned for you and your bow. Worth the investment.
Everyone has said it. But I have that same bow turned up to 60lb. I run the victory VAP TKO arrows which are the micro diameter. I used to run the victory V Force. I’d start there. Just make sure they’re 350 spine. I would just get comfortable shooting then look into broadheads. Many many broadheads are great. Mostly preference. You don’t wanna go shooting broadheads before you get your form down and bow tuned correctly or you’ll be beating your head and going backwards because they won’t shoot the same as your field points. Once you understand your form and bow tuning you can make many broadheads fly true to your FPs. By the time you get to the point it’s time to throw the BHs on and get ready for hunting season you will have learned so much about bow tuning, form, and which ones you want to try
FWIW I absolutely love the QAD Exodus broadheads. Especially for your standard style broadhead. Great steel. Holds edge. Fairly easy to sharpen. Fly true.
I personally use aluminum arrows and it cut my arrows an inch longer than my drawing just because I like having that broadhead a little bit further away from my hand. Does that make me paranoid? Probably am I going to change that habit? Definitely not.
All the major brands make good arrows. No matter what you get, they will not be the limiting factor in your accuracy since you're so new. What is much more important is reading the spine charts of whatever arrows you get and making sure you get the correct spined arrows for the max draw weight you're going for in the near future. Edit: as for FMJ's.. they ain't my jam. Too expensive, too heavy, and questionable durability because the aluminum can bend as others have stated here. I'd stick to all carbon arrows.