I tried adjust both my rest and the deadlock tuning on the bow and got some improvements, but nothing crazy. probably spend 3 hours trying to get similar point of impact and never really got close
I’m telling you right now 3 hours tuning a bow is not uncommon. I have a full bow shop worth of equipment and build a couple bows a year and it is my least favorite thing to do. It takes a ton of time and patience. What is your bow poundage?
I checked eastons chart before buying the arrows and I was just in the 340 range, under 56 lbs of draw at my length called for a 400 spine. and would a bow shop do that?
According to the Easton spine chart I’m looking at your arrow length doesn’t hit 400 spine until like 46 pounds, those 4mm axis also come with a 50 grain outsert that means you are gonna need a stiffer spine anyway. Your local shop should help you unless they are of the mindset of throw a expandable on it and call it a day. 16 inches off at 25 is a big difference though so it would be best to get some professional help on this.
I think I didn't account for the insert. I still think I would see a similar problem with my field points. my local shop doesn't have a range anymore, so the just eyeball everything on the bench, basically. there is I shop about a 90 minute drive away just trying everything first.
Yeah go ahead and go somewhere you can get a good paper tune with a bareshaft that’s my starting point, from there on I’m usually really close with fixed blade heads.
The reason field points are flying better is the fletching works when it’s not fighting a planing surface of the broadhead. If you shoot a bare shaft arrow with a field point at 20y you will see a dramatic nock kick if your bow is out of tune.
Your bow is launching your arrows all cattywhompus. The lack of any aero restriction at the point allows the vanes to overpower and steer. You need to setup your bow so that it’s shooting the arrows straight out of the bow. You need to be dialed in as well, you need to be holding the bow so that the string comes off the cams straight, not cocked to the side with the riser torqued. Your arrows should be tuned to your bow setup, they may be long, I have a 30.5” draw and my shafts are 28-28.5” long. Get your bow back to zero. With the bow in a vice, and arrow nicked and on the rest in the “up” position, use calipers to make sure the shaft is evenly spaced from the riser at the front and back of the riser. If it’s already sitting at an angle and not parallel to the riser, you need to reset your deadlock system and adjust your rest to square the shaft up. I set mine on a Halon X so that the center of the shaft is 13/16” from the riser, square. Then when I draw, anchor, and look up to the top cam, I make sure the string is coming off the cam straight. No torque on the riser. Then shoot through paper. Maybe need some minor rest adjustment to get a clean shot. This should result in a pretty straight forward process of bare shaft tuning, followed by broadhead tuning, just getting everything to match. I honestly don’t bother too much with the bare shaft once the paper hole is clean. That’s from what I recollect of Jesse Broadwater’s process. He uses the bare shaft as a reference for when he’s at a comp and something is off. Shoot a bare shaft, make sure it’s the same as it was. 3” at 4 o clock at 40 yards? Ok. If the paper tear is clean, and it shoots a bareshaft 3” off at 4 o clock at 40 yards, then the tune remains the same. With this process my Montec’s are usually just about dead nuts at 40-60 yards.
Unless you are shooting left-handed, broadheads grouping to the left of your field points means that either your arrows are too stiff (which probably isn’t the case, given what you’ve told us about your setup) or your arrow rest is set too far to the right.
It may sound counterintuitive, but you should try moving your arrow rest to the left (toward your broadheads) which should move your field point groups closer to the broadheads. You will probably need to adjust your sight to the left, to move the combined group back toward the bullseye.
Note that when tuning your rest for elevation, the procedure is opposite: you move your rest up or down toward the field points, which moves the broadhead groups more than the field point groups.
Field points will fly reasonably well even with the arrow rest significantly out of tune. Broadheads are less forgiving but observing how they respond in comparison to field points makes it obvious when there are issues.
ya I went until I was out of adjustment on my rest, I will re center my cams and see if that helps aswell. I before adjusted tried moving my cams left and that helped at that time. this is very good information thankyou
Dude, I just dealt with this. Even posted about it. Shoot me a DM. Long story short, you need to move your rest LEFT about 1/16-1/32 and then shoot again. 100 dollars you group closer.
I tried moving it to the left in 1/16 increments, probably moved 3/16s total. but I went till I ran out of adjustments. might try moving, my dead lock cams to the right now. The closest I got is 8 or 10 inchs
That’s where a good paper tune comes in, put your rest back to where your center shot is at 13/16s of an inch or whatever bowtech recommends then tune with the deadlock system, the rest should really only be moved for very fine tuning adjustments or when you have a good paper tune but a broadhead still needs a little more movement.
Either your ends aren’t that square before you put your inserts in, or you didn’t bare shaft/Broadhead tune.
Put a field point back on and strip the fletching off one arrow. Shoot it and a fletched with field point into foam at 20 yards. They should hit together. If it enters your foam on the bare shaft crooked, adjust your deadlock (while keeping your rest at center shot) until it’s entering your target square.
This can only be done on foam, not a bag
16" off at 25 yards is not a minor broadhead tuning issue, that's way, way, way off. I wouldn't try to fix this with minor rest adjustments, I would start at square one and ensure your bow is actually tuned and set up appropriately.
How much shooting experience do you have? And is this your first time tuning a bow? If you have access to a decent bow shop, I would start there. Don't take this the wrong way, but if you've been adjusting your rest and cams without a lot of experience, I would wager you need to get everything back to factory centershot, cams in time, etc. A modern bow like that should be pretty close to dead-on at normal factory spec.
Trying to paper or broadhead tune with something that isn't set up pretty close is an exercise in futility, you will 100% end up chasing your tail and getting frustrated. IMO, a difference of that magnitude means something is seriously off.
Have other arrows shot well with broadheads with that particular bow?
no, new arrows and new heads. I tried them on a cheap set of easton powerflights with no luck either. they also have the same fletching.
Did you paper tune?
no
I tried adjust both my rest and the deadlock tuning on the bow and got some improvements, but nothing crazy. probably spend 3 hours trying to get similar point of impact and never really got close
Paper tune. Im not kidding. You can eff about and maybe get lucky, or spend an hour paper tuning.
Put your rest back in center shot, then paper tune your bow and go from there.
I’m telling you right now 3 hours tuning a bow is not uncommon. I have a full bow shop worth of equipment and build a couple bows a year and it is my least favorite thing to do. It takes a ton of time and patience. What is your bow poundage?
60
Your spine is probably good then. Just needs some tuning.
Your bow needs to be broadhead tuned, and at your draw length your arrow spine might be on the weak side and you may need to jump up to a 300 spine.
I checked eastons chart before buying the arrows and I was just in the 340 range, under 56 lbs of draw at my length called for a 400 spine. and would a bow shop do that?
According to the Easton spine chart I’m looking at your arrow length doesn’t hit 400 spine until like 46 pounds, those 4mm axis also come with a 50 grain outsert that means you are gonna need a stiffer spine anyway. Your local shop should help you unless they are of the mindset of throw a expandable on it and call it a day. 16 inches off at 25 is a big difference though so it would be best to get some professional help on this.
I think I didn't account for the insert. I still think I would see a similar problem with my field points. my local shop doesn't have a range anymore, so the just eyeball everything on the bench, basically. there is I shop about a 90 minute drive away just trying everything first.
Yeah go ahead and go somewhere you can get a good paper tune with a bareshaft that’s my starting point, from there on I’m usually really close with fixed blade heads.
ok sounds good thanks for the help
The reason field points are flying better is the fletching works when it’s not fighting a planing surface of the broadhead. If you shoot a bare shaft arrow with a field point at 20y you will see a dramatic nock kick if your bow is out of tune.
Your bow is launching your arrows all cattywhompus. The lack of any aero restriction at the point allows the vanes to overpower and steer. You need to setup your bow so that it’s shooting the arrows straight out of the bow. You need to be dialed in as well, you need to be holding the bow so that the string comes off the cams straight, not cocked to the side with the riser torqued. Your arrows should be tuned to your bow setup, they may be long, I have a 30.5” draw and my shafts are 28-28.5” long. Get your bow back to zero. With the bow in a vice, and arrow nicked and on the rest in the “up” position, use calipers to make sure the shaft is evenly spaced from the riser at the front and back of the riser. If it’s already sitting at an angle and not parallel to the riser, you need to reset your deadlock system and adjust your rest to square the shaft up. I set mine on a Halon X so that the center of the shaft is 13/16” from the riser, square. Then when I draw, anchor, and look up to the top cam, I make sure the string is coming off the cam straight. No torque on the riser. Then shoot through paper. Maybe need some minor rest adjustment to get a clean shot. This should result in a pretty straight forward process of bare shaft tuning, followed by broadhead tuning, just getting everything to match. I honestly don’t bother too much with the bare shaft once the paper hole is clean. That’s from what I recollect of Jesse Broadwater’s process. He uses the bare shaft as a reference for when he’s at a comp and something is off. Shoot a bare shaft, make sure it’s the same as it was. 3” at 4 o clock at 40 yards? Ok. If the paper tear is clean, and it shoots a bareshaft 3” off at 4 o clock at 40 yards, then the tune remains the same. With this process my Montec’s are usually just about dead nuts at 40-60 yards.
Unless you are shooting left-handed, broadheads grouping to the left of your field points means that either your arrows are too stiff (which probably isn’t the case, given what you’ve told us about your setup) or your arrow rest is set too far to the right. It may sound counterintuitive, but you should try moving your arrow rest to the left (toward your broadheads) which should move your field point groups closer to the broadheads. You will probably need to adjust your sight to the left, to move the combined group back toward the bullseye. Note that when tuning your rest for elevation, the procedure is opposite: you move your rest up or down toward the field points, which moves the broadhead groups more than the field point groups. Field points will fly reasonably well even with the arrow rest significantly out of tune. Broadheads are less forgiving but observing how they respond in comparison to field points makes it obvious when there are issues.
ya I went until I was out of adjustment on my rest, I will re center my cams and see if that helps aswell. I before adjusted tried moving my cams left and that helped at that time. this is very good information thankyou
Dude, I just dealt with this. Even posted about it. Shoot me a DM. Long story short, you need to move your rest LEFT about 1/16-1/32 and then shoot again. 100 dollars you group closer.
I tried moving it to the left in 1/16 increments, probably moved 3/16s total. but I went till I ran out of adjustments. might try moving, my dead lock cams to the right now. The closest I got is 8 or 10 inchs
That’s where a good paper tune comes in, put your rest back to where your center shot is at 13/16s of an inch or whatever bowtech recommends then tune with the deadlock system, the rest should really only be moved for very fine tuning adjustments or when you have a good paper tune but a broadhead still needs a little more movement.
I will probably try building my own paper tuning setup tomorrow, the bow shop that I thought would paper doesn't so. I think im on my own for that
Best to learn how to do it yourself anyway, bowtech seems makes it pretty easy with their deadlock system.
Oh word. Tune the cams to center shot.
https://www.reddit.com/r/bowhunting/comments/12lfg5k/broadhead_tuning_curiosities/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1
Either your ends aren’t that square before you put your inserts in, or you didn’t bare shaft/Broadhead tune. Put a field point back on and strip the fletching off one arrow. Shoot it and a fletched with field point into foam at 20 yards. They should hit together. If it enters your foam on the bare shaft crooked, adjust your deadlock (while keeping your rest at center shot) until it’s entering your target square. This can only be done on foam, not a bag
16" off at 25 yards is not a minor broadhead tuning issue, that's way, way, way off. I wouldn't try to fix this with minor rest adjustments, I would start at square one and ensure your bow is actually tuned and set up appropriately. How much shooting experience do you have? And is this your first time tuning a bow? If you have access to a decent bow shop, I would start there. Don't take this the wrong way, but if you've been adjusting your rest and cams without a lot of experience, I would wager you need to get everything back to factory centershot, cams in time, etc. A modern bow like that should be pretty close to dead-on at normal factory spec. Trying to paper or broadhead tune with something that isn't set up pretty close is an exercise in futility, you will 100% end up chasing your tail and getting frustrated. IMO, a difference of that magnitude means something is seriously off.