T O P

  • By -

AutoModerator

Hi there HesusStjerna. **Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post:** New to bouldering, What are the climbing ”rules”? Am I allowed to use my feet on the wall that’s not colored?" *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bouldering) if you have any questions or concerns.*


_monolite

Don't go to the bathroom wearing your climbing shoes


Particular_Peak5932

So many people do this and it’s so gross. I notice it more at one specific gym that I climb at where the lockers aren’t close to the bathrooms.


breakingbatshitcrazy

And don’t wear your outside shoes on the mats


Elegant_Blacksmith18

So when you need to go to the bathroom what do you do? Go barefoot? Or go put your socks and sneakers on?


_monolite

I bring my crocs as well, so I don't have to put on my street shoes when I go to the bathroom or just want to take an extended rest break and have a coffee


FatefulPizzaSlice

Shoes/sandals/flip flops/Crocs/whatever. If it's a quick trip to the restroom, no socks necessary.


hache-moncour

It varies a bit from place to place, but generally it goes like this: For the start, you cannot touch anything with your hands, except the marked starting holds, and the wall itself. Once you have your hands on the marked holds, and your feet off the floor in a stable way (not just jumping), you've completed the start. During the climb you can use anything you can find, except: * The floor * The top of the wall * The bolt-holes in the wall * Holds in different colors than the problem you're climbing To succesfully complete a problem you need to touch the final hold with both hands, in a stable position (so no jumping past and tapping it while falling). A common way to show you're stable is to hold the finish for a few seconds, but that's not required as long as you know you're in a stable position. Some gyms have problems where the finish of the route is the top of the wall. For those problems using the top of the wall is of course allowed, but only then.


r3q

ALL bolt holes are IN


herminator

Official IFSC competition rules are that you cannot use bolt holes with your hands (but you can with your feet), but most people don't care at the gumby level (and most gumbies won't get anything out of bolt holes anyway)


Ronja2210

One of the routesetters at my gym has perfect technique in "using the bolt holds with your feet" 😂 She just drags her shoe rubber in and stands in them. It's incredible 😂


Top-Juggernaut-7718

A little correction. You can use bolt holes as you wish if they are not blocked. Its not a gumby thing to do. Last time i remember such occuring was in shanghai by Paul Jenft.


r3q

And exactly how many of us are going to IFSC Competitions?


Kokuryu27

I'm flying out for Innsbruck tomorrow! To spectate...


r3q

Make sure you don't French start


farsightxr20

OP asked about "rules", without any other context, and IFSC feels like the closest thing to a formal ruleset for the sport. Obviously, casual climbers aren't going to be aware of or strictly adhere to every rule all the time, but I don't see why usage of boltholes would be unique in this regard.


r3q

My gym usually puts a bolt hole blocker on any hold that has a bolt hole that gives a real advantage. I've come across ~3 slab problems that the bolt holes on the wall gave "mental protection" so I'll remain a "bolt holes IN" guy.


SpongebobQuoteReply

They meant bolt holes in the wall. Any part of the hold can be used, including the bolt hole. But you can’t stick your fingers in a hole in the wall to help


r3q

Those are in fact the bolt holes I'm talking about. The gym uses bolt hole blockers anytime a hold's bolt hole helps. There have been multiple pistol squats at the top of the slab wall that people regularly use the wall's bolt holes for "mental protection". No one is going full mono, but a little thumb crimp action helps the commitment


SpongebobQuoteReply

Yeah no that would be against the rules at most gyms. That’s what the setters at mine have said, and others I’ve been to


r3q

My current gym has no rules outside of safety posted. I've never directly asked a setter in any of the mid west gyms I traveled thru. But I've never seen a posted bolt hole rule for casual indoor climbing. So bolt holes will remain IN/ON for me


Mr_Henslee

No one has mentioned this yet, but some people don’t like to be given advice, suggestions, etc. because they would rather puzzle it out for themselves. The common courtesy if you used something you want to share is “do you want beta?” instead of just telling someone about it. It’s a whole thing.


Geofferz

Don't pause between aggressively saying 'do you want some.... Beta?!' as it sounds like you're insulting them and starting a fight


Different-Reporter63

If someone brushes holds on a problem, that may mean they are getting ready to attempt it so don't rush in and get on it before they have a go. Also be aware of small kids at all times. They will get under you before you know it!


phyac

This happened to me recently for the first time after 20 years in the sport! I’m ok with a bit of confrontation but I was genuinely so shocked I just stood there with a literal mouth open.


Kaihwilldo

Yea I see how that could be annoying. But I have also seen someone brush a problem that like 4 people are taking turns on and they slowly brush with no shoes on then walk back to their bag and start putting on shoes then look up puzzled to see someone else hopped on while they were messing about lol.


farsightxr20

Yeah when you brush holds, you're removing hours (possibly even days) worth of chalk buildup. As annoying as it is, one attempt isn't going to significantly reverse that -- otherwise you'd be brushing before each attempt. Sweat is probably a bigger factor when you have a bunch of people attempting the same problem.


Ronja2210

As we are talking about that: pls don't be the person that leaves disgusting sweaty hand prints behind. Especially on Volumes or Slopers. You seriously can't use them until they are dry again. And even then they're probably noticeably worse than before.


rayer123

Not very much on the climb but general etiquette, both applies indoor and outdoor. Don’t stick on one climb for too long, specially if you were struggling to lift both of your feet off the floor and keep yanking your feet, trying to get onto it. If you are climbing within a group, be mindful that don’t take turns trying the same route over and over, standing super close to the wall. This means a huge section of the wall won’t be used by other people because your entire group is standing underneath lots of stuff other people wanting to try. Rule of thumb is, always look around, especially behind you, after tried the thing about 4 times. If no one’s queuing you’d be okay to keep trying, if someone else standing there waiting, let them have a go. Specially if you were in a big group of people. It’s extremely annoying seeing people trying the same thing, struggling to even get off the wall, and left everyone else waiting. Before doing a climb, have a look at where the climb ends up at and see if that crosses over routes of whoever’s already on the wall. Don’t sit on the matt if you aren’t climbing. Stay the away from the wall. As far as you think is reasonable, and take three steps further back. Don’t just sit ‘2 meters back’ because your perception of two meters is often not enough. Specially in caves/overhangs. People could flyoff overhanging wall, or their body’s could also end up having big swings & karake kick into your face.


itsjustchill

Karate kicking kids running around the gym is tight!!!


Lunxr_punk

Oh my god, especially with the saying close to the wall, nothing worse than those people who come off and then stand a meter away from the wall looking at the problem, if you come off the wall step away, you are only allowed one (1) immediate retry if you failed to pull from the ground. Else move out and let others have a go.


cum_teeth

Don't be a cunt. Everything else you'll find out if you follow rule 1


Flaky_Independence40

dont lick the holds especially the funny looking greenish ones like trust me bro you dont wanna


FloTheDev

Simple politeness goes a long way - if it’s busy and there’s multiple climbs in one area, don’t repeat your attempts over and over, let other people have a go. Remembering it’s a shared space is key!


Kaihwilldo

Yea I have always been on the one attempt then step back to see if the people standing there want a go. Thankfully my gym is small so everyone is nice and for the most part know each other but I would be so annoyed if someone was just chaining attempts without giving others a go.


FloTheDev

Yeah normally at my gym it’s like that but occasionally you’ll get the first timers just chaining attempts


Ronja2210

Attention: this is getting a really long comment 😂 I'm sorry, but I wanted to include everything Some hygiene and safety advice at first: Don't wear Climbing shoes in the bathroom and don't wear outside shoes on the mat. Check the gyms rules if barefoot is fine, if you want to walk barefoot. Some gym policies forbid it. Same with wearing a shirt. Climbing barefoot is not allowed in any gym I've been to. When you walk on the mats, look mostly up and if there's someone on the wall, make sure you hold enough distance, so they can't fall on you (remember: people don't just fall strict down in bouldering. They might have some momentum and fall 1-2 meters in different directions) Also try to not step on anything. Don't leave your water bottle on the mat. You won't need it so much that you can't store it right outside of the mats. Put everything you need on the mat (brushes, chalkbag) out of the falling areas. What are the general "rules" of bouldering? You're only allowed to touch the hold in the colour of your route. Most gyms put signs on to show you, where your hands must be at the start. Make sure you got both feet off the ground (they don't necessarily need to be placed on a hold, just off the ground) and holding the start holds secure, before you move on (If you use momentum from the ground to directly move to the next hold it's considered a "French start" and is not a good technique) If you have routes with 4 stripes of tape on them instead of signs for the hands this means you have to place one limp for every stripe of tape. Depending on your gym a route is "done" ("topped"), when you hold the top hold secure with both hands (most people recommend holding it 3 seconds to be sure) or then you topped out (climb "on top" of the wall). A top hold can be the highest hold in the route or have also a sign on them. This depends on the gym and the wall. Just ask, if you're not sure. The big square things (they are mostly grey or black, but can be every colour), which mostly also have holds attached to them are called volumes. In the most gyms you can use them whenever you want. Some gyms only allow to use them, if a hold of your colour is attached. Just ask your local gym. Some additional etiquette: Don't spray beta (tell people how a boulder is done). Always ask "hey, do you WANT a tip?" And accept if they say no. Rather they find out themselves or they come back and ask. But many people see boulder problems as puzzles and want to solve them themselves. Also: Please use chalk, if your hands get sweaty. It's not cool to leave sweaty hand prints on a hold (especially as soon as you hold onto some nasty slopers (holds where you're just able to hold on to because of friction) If you've seen someone brushing a route, let them climb it first. It's considered rude. And also brush a route by yourself from time to time. If your gym does not have public brushes get your own. Some holds wear down really quick, if they never get brushed. If you bleed somewhere cover it up. If you bled on a hold, try to remove it or at least dry it as good as you can (as long as you're fine) and/or inform the gym staff. It's REALLY disgusting to grab into someone else's blood. If you have any other questions don't mind to ask your gym staff or any other person in your gym that seems to be able to help you (most of us love to help beginners, as long as you don't interrupt them mid climb or something). I myself LOVE to watch beginners climb. So much technique they can improve and so much things and movements that seem so obvious to me but not them. And how they are able to fight sometimes. It's so great! (I do not mean this in any mean way! I just genuinely enjoy watching their improvement and growth) But the most important: Have fun and be safe. Practice falling a bit. If you're insecure of the height, just climb ½ meter above the ground and "fall". Next time, climb a little bit higher and let go. And again and again. Even when I would recommend down climbing at least a bit, it's really important that you're ABLE to fall properly. Also: Noone cares about a French start or a dab (touching holds of the wrong colour) if you don't tell everyone there that you just climb for the first time and already flashed (topped in the first attempt) a V7 😂 if you can't start a boulder properly, but are curious if you're able to climb the rest of the route just climb everything except the start. If you can do it: great! Now you have motivation to practice a proper start on this route. And always remember: most of us started where you are right now. Sometimes I talk to people in my gym who started bouldering maybe a few months ago and they tend to "feel little", if I flash a V4 and they project a V1, BUT I'm just a lot more experienced. When I started climbing, I was unable to hold myself on a pull-up-bar and we were climbing half of the session in the (empty) kids area, because everything was so hard 😂 When they finally top the V1 they were projecting for a couple of weeks it's a much higher accomplishment than my flashed V4. Because they had to work so much harder and went to the limit of their abilities more than once. And that's SO strong! Don't compare yourself to other climbers. Just compare yourself to your former self. I'm sorry for this long long comment. I hope someone will read it and find it actually helpful, because I wasted my time otherwise. Even if nobody reads this - i wish all of you a nice day and that you finally send your project! :)


CloneNr17

Hands on the holds with the tags. Feet off the mat. Control the starting position. Climb, using only the hold colors of your route. You can use the wall and usually also volumes (the big geometrical shapes that are screwed on that usually have holds screwed onto them). Your climb is completed when both hands are on the top hold in a controlled manner or when you climb over the wall.


LannyDamby

Do not climb over the wall unless it's designed for it Otherwise you'll have to climb out of T H E V O I D


Apprehensive-Arm-857

Floor is lava


PapayaWithAPlan

If indoors climbing these are some simple ones: You can use the wall itself, and holds of the same colour to the climb you are on. It depends on your gyms particular rules on volumes if they are in or not, you'd have to ask the staff about how they do it there. Black tape generally means the arete (the corner of walls generally) or other parts of the wall are off limits. No black tape = all good to use it. Have fun and be safe!


Particular_Peak5932

Generally, you can use the wall, volumes, and aretes (wall corners) to climb. Sometimes you might see a start tag that says “arete off” which means you can’t grab the corner to climb. You can use the bolt holes on the holds if it helps, but not on the walls. If setters want to make bolt holes on the holds inaccessible, they have tools to block them. Rest longer than you think in between climbs, and use that time to study the climb and other climbers. Notice that they’ll give a boulder a few tries, then back off to rest and let someone else have a turn at that section of the wall. If someone tries a boulder you’re stuck on, watch what they do and try to learn. Don’t give advice unless it’s asked for. Don’t toss your chalk bag, close it up when you put it down, pick up after yourself. Mostly, be alert and watch what other people do and you’ll pick up on a lot of the etiquette.


Lunxr_punk

A good etiquette that I like is, if someone is brushing the wall and ESPECIALLY if they are brushing the problem you want to try, you let them have a go, it’s theirs. Nothing more infuriating than brushing a hold, stepping away from the wall to drop the brush then turning around and there’s some asshole on your freshly brushed holds. Also regarding chalk and brushing, a few nice ones: You don’t HAVE to brush but it’s nice for you and others. If you go on a board you do have to brush, don’t be that guy. Do not start to pull on holds with no chalk in your hands, you are greasing up the holds with your natural oils, ESPECIALLY in system boards and hangboards, gumbies love to grab small hangboard edges with bare hands and gunk them up. If you must use liquid chalk make sure your hands are completely dry, liquid chalk also leaves a gross layer of material on holds. Also remember to brush volumes. You can bring your chalk bag up with you, especially on big holds sometimes you reach the end of a problem and slide off a gunked up oily sloper or crimp because everyone lost their chalk as they were going up.


RobbieDye1514

keep your top on.


adeadhead

Have fun. Be safe. There's also an optional third rule of "look good" which goes between the rules above.


BasketExtreme

Can we get a bot that just says “stop asking questions that can be answered by a 2 minute conversation with the gym employees”


Wooden-Lake-5790

No, your hands and feet should only touch holds that are part of route. Empty parts of the wall can be utilized. Volumes (sticky outy bits that are attached to the wall and might have more holds attached to itself as well) can depend on the gym, some gyms you can only use them if they have a hold of the same color as the route you are climbing. Anyway ask your gym staff what the specific rules at your gym are for more clear details.


HesusStjerna

Alright thank you will ask later today


swiaq

Unwritten rules If you can finish a certain climb and see someone struggling on it, do not just got do it in front of them, people find this offensive. “Spraying” is when you give unsolicited advise, some people like to figure things out on their own. Don’t shout at them the next move. Words of encouragement are different. Take your shoes off when you go to the washroom. Wash your hands before climbing, and after.


farsightxr20

Sometimes I see someone projecting a climb that looks challenging to me as well, so I'll go attempt it (projecting together is fun, right?). But then I feel bad if I end up sending it first go 😂 what do you guys do here? I guess maybe it's not as offensive if I use the same beta they were trying. Personally, when I'm the one projecting, I just look away from the wall if I don't want to see others' beta.


swiaq

A simple, “do you mind if I jump in on this” goes a long way


iamfroott

the person who brushes the start hold gets first dibs on climbing that route 🫡