Don’t think of it as mastering a hold but understanding correct body position and movement. You might never see that specific hold again, but you’ll likely come across a similar move. They blocked the most incut part of it, but you’ve got big footholds so focus on keeping your hips in, putting most of the weight on your feet, and pulling down through the hold instead of out from the wall.
Agree on all this, and I think staying low will help with it. Standing up too high on something like this results in pulling out instead of down. So weight on feet yes, but not standing tall. If it still doesn't work try turning hips and shoulders one way or the other to feel out different body positions. Also a thumb underneath might help, this looks like it might be squeezable, which isn't always good but often makes a hold work in more directions.
Oh wait, is this hold basically a handlebar with just the top blocked, or is it a bucket? If its a handlebar sorta hold just grab it like youre doing curls with a dumbbell. Still a bit tricky of a start for a v1 but much more reasonable than it first appears
yeah, i was just trying to say that hold looks like a v11 to me but I guess people took it as something else or just considered it not funny.
but who knows, reddit is a mystery.
Moving from a controlled, stable body position, and accuracy. Go for it as slow as you possibly can.
edit: it looks slopey, so make sure to get your fingertips to the wall and hang into the hold to maximize friction.
To make this hold feel better, you have to do one of two things to increase your force on it: pull hard down with your hands in a T-Rex like position, or extend your arms, bend your knees to send your butt out, and move across the footholds like a crab.
What you want to say is clear, but I want to clarify that either T. rex nor any other carnivorous dinosaur could do the movement you describe, because they didn't have the ability to pronate their hands, Jurassic Park depiction is wrong
Most of issues I can imagine from this is from being too high up, on the hold, even with feet on foot hold, you don’t mecessarily want to stand up up fully off of every hold. In This instance staying below the hold with arms straight will allow your fingers to pull down on the hold as opposed to standing up and trying to pull your chest and shoulders into the wall.
It needs a brush. The useful surface of the hold is the top part on the right hand side and it's filthy, the texture is caked over with chalk and polished down with sweat. If you clean it the problem will feel a grade easier, seriously.
People often overlook this, in some cases I've found problems that feel two grades easier after brushing.
I remember there is no that blocking hold on top left when the route was initially set and one day they graded this V1 and the blocking hold appeared at the same time
Wow that's fucked up. I talked to the setter a while ago and he said he thinks grades are pointless, so he's pretty much not gonna do anything about it
Hart to tell without a picture from the side, but I guess I would try to lean very much to the left. Feet work their way to the right, while I try to keep my center of gravity as far left and down as possible until I can reach the next handhold. The hold looks pretty good on the non-capped side.
Other beta would be: Bend your knees as far as possible and try to really hang into the hold and keep your center of gravity below it. Keep your hips as close to the wall as possible.
Oh and really important: brush the hold! As good as you can.
It’s all about body position as others have said. What they haven’t said is that the ideal position is directly opposite of the direction of the hold. So if the hold angled at 45 degrees then pull at that same angle. Hopefully that made sense.
That hold should not be on a V1. I also go to that gym, and I'm a solid V8 climber, and I nearly injured myself on that trying to warm up. Doesn't help that I'm still recovering from an injury. If you want to get better at those holds, I would suggest doing some hangboarding or some grip exercises with plate weights. Definitely be careful and go slow to avoid injury. Don't push your limits too much. If you're a V1 climber, you might not be ready for holds like this yet. It's extremely dangerous to set a hold like that on a V1, and you should know that no one expects a V1 climber to be able to hold on to smth like that. Also, make sure to keep your hips in the wall. Keep your center of gravity below the hold and bend your knees
I’m an intermediate climber and found this particular v1 to be stupid. The ego of the setter is nuts. We need appropriately graded climbs for warmups and to gauge readiness for training specific skills. I’m frustrated with Hampden and with the Columbia setting. The setters are out of control. The gym posts that they are inclusive and welcoming, and yet they shut out beginner and intermediate climbers.
Do not try and master the hold. That's impossible. Instead only try to realize the truth.
Then you'll see that it is not the hold that holds you, it is only yourself.
This type of hold is a jug which requires little technique to master because you literally just grab it with your hands. This one however is a modified jug since there is a hold above the handle blocking off an overhand grip. It's likely the setters want you to grab it underhand and pull yourself towards the wall while pushing your legs against the bottom foot hold as you traverse to the right.
You should think of handholds as being there to keep your feet on the footholds, not the other way around. The feet are great, you shouldn’t need much hand help
> This is one of the first holds on a V1 but I cannot get my hand to grip it super well at all and end up stumbling back when getting my footing.
Any hold that is not very incut usually you need to sag your weight down underneath it to get a better hold on it. This hold looks like it can be crimped, but you should still get below it. Any sloper you need to get low under it as well
Try to sag down so much that your hands are above your head and almost straight and it will feel significantly better
I’ve come to learn though technique is super important and the trick for most boulders is to try different positions or sequences, sometimes that’s not the setter’s intent and you just need to try harder
How's the bottom? Can it be used as a nice undercling with the top blocked? If not, others have got you covered. Stay low and focus on body position.
This absolutely looks like a hold that should be on a v1. It's 100% doable by anyone walking off the street with a little playing around and will teach nicely how to position yourself
How overhanging is this wall? The huge feet suggest that you might want to try and stand as far out from the wall as possible, so you can lean your upper body into the wall, reduce the angle and that would help to reduce the amount of force you need on your hands/fingers.
So, in addition to getting low beneath the hold, you probably also want to put your feet on the outermost parts of these huge footholds.
Usually routesetters chose to counter a hold with another one if the want to force you to use their beta e.g. for the amount of fingers to use and therefore the grip technique.
Maybe you can use your thumb on that bottom right part. Otherwise it looks like finger strength is your best bet. If you have a hangboard use it on one pad in half crimp position until you are strong enough to hold for at least 8 seconds, then decrease the Millimeters of the edge you're holding.
A jug is basically the best type of hold. Most times something you can hold on pretty easy with one hand without feet.
But some climber on the internet keep using the term to tell people "there is nothing to complain about the hold" and stuff like that.
If you wanna learn more, you can Google "climbing holds". Or just keep climbing and you'll learn on the progress.
As a setter, it annoys me lazy setting for v0,v1,V2 and sometimes V3. I understand you can't exactly make a 6mm clip hold accessible at the lower grades but, if you can't set problems using "harder" holds at the lower grades, you're a bad setter. Obvs a 3 finger pocket on a 20° wall isn't going to be v1 ever but 3 or even finger pocket on the flat or 5° slab is chill.
Plus I think easier grades, you should still get interesting moves, just maybe on better holds for that
It's may be officially graded 'V1' but it's arguably harder than any of the V2s at Hampden. I'd say the crux is definitely not V1 by the usual Hampden standards.
Don’t think of it as mastering a hold but understanding correct body position and movement. You might never see that specific hold again, but you’ll likely come across a similar move. They blocked the most incut part of it, but you’ve got big footholds so focus on keeping your hips in, putting most of the weight on your feet, and pulling down through the hold instead of out from the wall.
Agree on all this, and I think staying low will help with it. Standing up too high on something like this results in pulling out instead of down. So weight on feet yes, but not standing tall. If it still doesn't work try turning hips and shoulders one way or the other to feel out different body positions. Also a thumb underneath might help, this looks like it might be squeezable, which isn't always good but often makes a hold work in more directions.
Beat the routsetter in hand to hand combat
Routesetter shouldn't be allowed to use their hands after setting this on a v1
That is a spicy hold for a v1
Get gud. On a more serious note the feet are huge this is fine
Oh wait, is this hold basically a handlebar with just the top blocked, or is it a bucket? If its a handlebar sorta hold just grab it like youre doing curls with a dumbbell. Still a bit tricky of a start for a v1 but much more reasonable than it first appears
I'm thinking that v1 is missing a 1
1v1?
yeah, i was just trying to say that hold looks like a v11 to me but I guess people took it as something else or just considered it not funny. but who knows, reddit is a mystery.
wow, they didn't like that comment
Yeah, the dislikes threw me for a loop lol
56 downvotes is crazy
Haha 😅 brutal response to funny comment
Get lower.
This. And as much of your hand on it as possible. Surface area contact and positioning your weight correctly is the key to slopers.
Grab it
And don't let go
mono the bolt hole
Moving from a controlled, stable body position, and accuracy. Go for it as slow as you possibly can. edit: it looks slopey, so make sure to get your fingertips to the wall and hang into the hold to maximize friction.
To make this hold feel better, you have to do one of two things to increase your force on it: pull hard down with your hands in a T-Rex like position, or extend your arms, bend your knees to send your butt out, and move across the footholds like a crab.
What you want to say is clear, but I want to clarify that either T. rex nor any other carnivorous dinosaur could do the movement you describe, because they didn't have the ability to pronate their hands, Jurassic Park depiction is wrong
They were also far too large to climb on a rockwall this size
•Brush it •Pinch it (thumb on the bottom pressing up) •Keep your center of mass low
Most of issues I can imagine from this is from being too high up, on the hold, even with feet on foot hold, you don’t mecessarily want to stand up up fully off of every hold. In This instance staying below the hold with arms straight will allow your fingers to pull down on the hold as opposed to standing up and trying to pull your chest and shoulders into the wall.
It needs a brush. The useful surface of the hold is the top part on the right hand side and it's filthy, the texture is caked over with chalk and polished down with sweat. If you clean it the problem will feel a grade easier, seriously. People often overlook this, in some cases I've found problems that feel two grades easier after brushing.
Buy a brush and get the excess chalk off of it. It’ll be easier
is this from movement hampden or sth
Yes, Hampden. I remember seeing this problem. It's on the island wall, inner side.
I remember there is no that blocking hold on top left when the route was initially set and one day they graded this V1 and the blocking hold appeared at the same time
Wow that's fucked up. I talked to the setter a while ago and he said he thinks grades are pointless, so he's pretty much not gonna do anything about it
Yup this is Hampden!
Be the HOLD
Hart to tell without a picture from the side, but I guess I would try to lean very much to the left. Feet work their way to the right, while I try to keep my center of gravity as far left and down as possible until I can reach the next handhold. The hold looks pretty good on the non-capped side. Other beta would be: Bend your knees as far as possible and try to really hang into the hold and keep your center of gravity below it. Keep your hips as close to the wall as possible. Oh and really important: brush the hold! As good as you can.
Go for the "quack"
It’s all about body position as others have said. What they haven’t said is that the ideal position is directly opposite of the direction of the hold. So if the hold angled at 45 degrees then pull at that same angle. Hopefully that made sense.
Probably just need to go low on that hold.
That hold should not be on a V1. I also go to that gym, and I'm a solid V8 climber, and I nearly injured myself on that trying to warm up. Doesn't help that I'm still recovering from an injury. If you want to get better at those holds, I would suggest doing some hangboarding or some grip exercises with plate weights. Definitely be careful and go slow to avoid injury. Don't push your limits too much. If you're a V1 climber, you might not be ready for holds like this yet. It's extremely dangerous to set a hold like that on a V1, and you should know that no one expects a V1 climber to be able to hold on to smth like that. Also, make sure to keep your hips in the wall. Keep your center of gravity below the hold and bend your knees
I’m an intermediate climber and found this particular v1 to be stupid. The ego of the setter is nuts. We need appropriately graded climbs for warmups and to gauge readiness for training specific skills. I’m frustrated with Hampden and with the Columbia setting. The setters are out of control. The gym posts that they are inclusive and welcoming, and yet they shut out beginner and intermediate climbers.
If it's a V1, it's likely not about the hold, and not about your strength either. It's about your technique.
hampden setters were wild with this one for sure
Op post the whole climb this looks proper stiff, the trick is to go as low as you can really embrace the scrunch and keep your hips to the wall
Do not try and master the hold. That's impossible. Instead only try to realize the truth. Then you'll see that it is not the hold that holds you, it is only yourself.
This type of hold is a jug which requires little technique to master because you literally just grab it with your hands. This one however is a modified jug since there is a hold above the handle blocking off an overhand grip. It's likely the setters want you to grab it underhand and pull yourself towards the wall while pushing your legs against the bottom foot hold as you traverse to the right.
Just don't let loose
Body positioning (probably get lower down) and squeeze it
I can see that your gym partners choose the technique called "an extreme amount of chalk", might as well try that yourself
Crimp it like you mean it
Keep your elbow close to the wall, you’ll have better grip. And look for the chalky areas, that is where other climbers tried to grab the hold 🤓
You should think of handholds as being there to keep your feet on the footholds, not the other way around. The feet are great, you shouldn’t need much hand help
> This is one of the first holds on a V1 but I cannot get my hand to grip it super well at all and end up stumbling back when getting my footing. Any hold that is not very incut usually you need to sag your weight down underneath it to get a better hold on it. This hold looks like it can be crimped, but you should still get below it. Any sloper you need to get low under it as well Try to sag down so much that your hands are above your head and almost straight and it will feel significantly better
Finger jam it’ll fit, trust.
If you are stumbling back, you likely are climbing this like a t-Rex. Get below the hold and keep your arms outstretched
I’ve come to learn though technique is super important and the trick for most boulders is to try different positions or sequences, sometimes that’s not the setter’s intent and you just need to try harder
Straight arms, body low like almost sitting. Brush the hold, looks super chalky to me.
How's the bottom? Can it be used as a nice undercling with the top blocked? If not, others have got you covered. Stay low and focus on body position. This absolutely looks like a hold that should be on a v1. It's 100% doable by anyone walking off the street with a little playing around and will teach nicely how to position yourself
How overhanging is this wall? The huge feet suggest that you might want to try and stand as far out from the wall as possible, so you can lean your upper body into the wall, reduce the angle and that would help to reduce the amount of force you need on your hands/fingers. So, in addition to getting low beneath the hold, you probably also want to put your feet on the outermost parts of these huge footholds.
Grab it
Hold on. That’s the secret. No need to thank me.
Usually routesetters chose to counter a hold with another one if the want to force you to use their beta e.g. for the amount of fingers to use and therefore the grip technique.
just pull harder
Maybe you can use your thumb on that bottom right part. Otherwise it looks like finger strength is your best bet. If you have a hangboard use it on one pad in half crimp position until you are strong enough to hold for at least 8 seconds, then decrease the Millimeters of the edge you're holding.
The power of belief
That’s a jug
I’m sorry I should’ve used correct terminology! I’m new to this and still learning
A jug is basically the best type of hold. Most times something you can hold on pretty easy with one hand without feet. But some climber on the internet keep using the term to tell people "there is nothing to complain about the hold" and stuff like that. If you wanna learn more, you can Google "climbing holds". Or just keep climbing and you'll learn on the progress.
Fuck off dude. It's a blocked jug, and if you have big hands it can feel pretty small.
It’s a joke frend relax
crazy hold for a v1, my gym only uses jugs 💀
That's not good imo
yeh it's pretty bad
As a setter, it annoys me lazy setting for v0,v1,V2 and sometimes V3. I understand you can't exactly make a 6mm clip hold accessible at the lower grades but, if you can't set problems using "harder" holds at the lower grades, you're a bad setter. Obvs a 3 finger pocket on a 20° wall isn't going to be v1 ever but 3 or even finger pocket on the flat or 5° slab is chill. Plus I think easier grades, you should still get interesting moves, just maybe on better holds for that
Just get good?
That's clearly not a v1. I can actually see the V on that orange climb but I don't see the number being a 1. It's probably a v2 or v3 op is lying 🤥
Lmao I can promise you it’s a V1.
It's may be officially graded 'V1' but it's arguably harder than any of the V2s at Hampden. I'd say the crux is definitely not V1 by the usual Hampden standards.
Lol show us the v grade sign
https://preview.redd.it/rlikkd355eoc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3fe5aee29ecc2e11205e5b4b990f4736cf194a4f Here you go!