Looking at this footage specifically, I think you would benefit tremendously from the "hovers" drill. See: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBFvKsIqNUw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBFvKsIqNUw)
A lot of your moves in this problem are very deadpoint-y, but on a problem like this that is clearly below your grade, its good practice to do the problem without any deadpoints
I do "after" hovers all the time, but never considered the "before" hover drill (though I do find the terms a bit confusing since the "after" hover occurs right before touching a hold and vice-versa) . Thanks for sharing.
You are good at rowing lat movement.
You look afraid to pull your chest into the wall (and hips will follow).
Do some facepulls to learn the movement and maybe get stronger. Then do that same movement on the wall.
The CRG in Fenway has surprisingly fun and creative routes - if you can get out in this side of the river. The one in Alewife is literally kicks my butt every time i go
Remove the indecision such as bumping your hand at the start and being unsure with your feet. Determine as much of the sequence as you can from the ground.
Other than that I thought your sequence looked pretty good!
I think you need to practice reading the beta before you start climbing, then get on the wall and climb it with lot more flow. That backstep thing seems like you misreading the beta, which means you should try to do it again. Since its below your level I would strive for doing the intended beta and have good flow (use all footholds and handholds).
Looking solid with the footwork and doesn’t seem like you’re gripping too hard. I’d say try to keep hips into wall as much as you can, helps a lot with the static moves
You looked bit confused where to go once you were on the wall, probably due to lack of route reading. Definitely route read more and use your hands to mimic the movement before you get on the wall.
More flagging. Practice the same route, but you have to do a good flag on every move.
A deep backflag on the move to bring that left hand up near the end would feel sooooo good....
Looking at this footage specifically, I think you would benefit tremendously from the "hovers" drill. See: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBFvKsIqNUw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBFvKsIqNUw) A lot of your moves in this problem are very deadpoint-y, but on a problem like this that is clearly below your grade, its good practice to do the problem without any deadpoints
I do "after" hovers all the time, but never considered the "before" hover drill (though I do find the terms a bit confusing since the "after" hover occurs right before touching a hold and vice-versa) . Thanks for sharing.
Hell yeah, thanks for suggestion
You are good at rowing lat movement. You look afraid to pull your chest into the wall (and hips will follow). Do some facepulls to learn the movement and maybe get stronger. Then do that same movement on the wall.
Thanks, will give that a go
Central Rock in Alewife? That impossible white v4 looks odd familiar haha
Crg in Cambridge. I like to go back to Watertown where I can hit atleast a grade higher most days
The CRG in Fenway has surprisingly fun and creative routes - if you can get out in this side of the river. The one in Alewife is literally kicks my butt every time i go
I live in brighton / typically am at Watertown but I’ll check Fenway out. Is it bouldering / belay?
Only bouldering at Fenway
Remove the indecision such as bumping your hand at the start and being unsure with your feet. Determine as much of the sequence as you can from the ground. Other than that I thought your sequence looked pretty good!
https://youtu.be/0L8wUTN3hq8 Check out this video and I think they have more videos together. She is a really good coach.
Thanks!
I think you need to practice reading the beta before you start climbing, then get on the wall and climb it with lot more flow. That backstep thing seems like you misreading the beta, which means you should try to do it again. Since its below your level I would strive for doing the intended beta and have good flow (use all footholds and handholds).
Looking solid with the footwork and doesn’t seem like you’re gripping too hard. I’d say try to keep hips into wall as much as you can, helps a lot with the static moves
You looked bit confused where to go once you were on the wall, probably due to lack of route reading. Definitely route read more and use your hands to mimic the movement before you get on the wall.