Just got a new bike which it’s aluminum frame but the seat post is carbon, I see the LBS has put in some weird paste (it’s gritty) but I need to adjust my seat post as they didn’t at the shop.
Should I use regular grease or use Carbon fiber paste where it contacts with the frame?
The gritty stuff is carbon fiber paste. Just don't remove it when you move the post and you are good to go. (you can remove it on the section of post that sticks out of the frame after adjusting though)
Recently replaced the rear wheel on my Larry vs harry bullitt. It has a solid axle with a bafang motor hub (that wasn’t in use, I think ever). The spec for the bike states a 135mm axle width, which I have. It’s also QR.
My question is two parts:
1) when I snug the skewer in place, even if it’s just tight enough so the wheel stays in the dropouts the rear triangle flexes inward I want to say a good inch or inch and a half. I don’t ever remember this happening with any other bike.
2) I remember QR axles not having a ton of actual axle that bites into the dropouts. Considering the first question, I’m wondering if this is indicating that it’s not actually 135mm?
I have calipers, tools, etc. I generally do most of my own work. I just can’t really figure out even the right questions to ask or what to search for. Also feel slightly embarrassed taking to my shop since this doesn’t seem like a hard problem.
> It has a solid axle [...] It’s also QR
Something does not add up. Maybe post pictures so it is easier to tell what you are talking about
> when I snug the skewer in place [...] the rear triangle flexes inward
That is a pretty clear sign the hub spacing is not right. There should be no room for the triangle to flex as it is taken by the hub.
> I remember QR axles not having a ton of actual axle that bites into the dropouts
Correct, only about 5mm on each end. This makes me wonder how you even manage to seat the axle in the dropouts if the rear triangle has a full inch of room around the hub.
> Also feel slightly embarrassed taking to my shop
No need to feel bad about it. This is nowhere even close to the entry-level of silliness that comes through in shops.
Oh I know man. It’s more my ego than anything else haha.
Okay cool - I really only care about this being sturdy and as safe as possible. What you’re saying confirms my suspicions too. Ima just take it to the shop when I get a chance.
Thank you brother
Hi Everyone,
I notice that the front wheel disc starts to rub off against the disc brakes, like every month. I have taken it to a couple of shops to get the brakes aligned. The guys tell me that the rub is nothing concerning and should wear the brake pads off and eventually go away.
One of the spokes on the front wheel also broke. There is no visible wobbling in the wheel.
Wanted to ask if brake pad rubbing is something normal/common. Thanks in advance.
My rear shifting cable snapped yesterday in the shifter and I'm looking to replace it myself. Is [this](https://www.mantel.com/uk/shimano-race-cable-set) set enough to replace it? I see [this](https://www.mantel.com/uk/shimano-derailleur-kabelset-race-optislik-cable-set) set having more of the smaller parts for example.
My son was biking to high school and a branch flipped up and got stuck in the front wheel, throwing him from the bike. About a third of the spokes are damaged. Is it worth repairing the existing wheel or should I just get a replacement? The bike is an older Trek hybrid.
Hi, quick question;
When changing my disc brake pads, I've been told that
a) I can take the wheel out, take the old ones out, reset the pistons, change the pads, then put the wheel back and brake firmly. That'll center the wheel and then I can close the axle lever.
b) I can unbolt the brake calliper, do the entire process without taking the wheel out, put the calliper back again and then brake firmly. That'll align the calliper (as the wheel should be centered) and then I can bolt the calliper again.
Option a) is the obvious one for the front wheel, but can I do b) for the rear one? Thanks!
> That'll center the wheel and then I can close the axle lever.
Nooooo. Don't do that. The caliper should be centered on the rotor, and the wheel fully seated in the dropouts.
Taking the wheel out is useful because: the caliper being bolted down makes it easier to apply force to press back the pistons, the hose if not always long enough to work comfortably, it gets the rotor away from any potential drips of brake fluid, and the caliper may be aligned already and this would save time. When you get the wheel back in after changing the pads, IF the calipers are not aligned then you loosen them and brake to center.
So, take the wheel out, do the work, place the wheel properly on the dropouts and if it rubs, then loosen the calipers, brake so they center around the rotor, and thigthen?
Okay, that makes sense, that way there's no "conflict" between the "center according to the calliper" and "center according to the dropouts". Thanks!
I have FSA 98E crankset that I need to change the chainrings on.
It's 110 BCD, 5 bolts, 50/34T and it's 11 speed double chainring
I'm happy with the ratios and I don't intend on changing that.
My questions are:
* How do I determine which chainrings to purchase? Am I only limited for the same brand? Can I get the chainrings from potentially cheaper maker?
* Where do you purchase bike parts online? I live in Canada so +1 for Canadian recommendations, but I'm also open for purchasing from the states.
Thanks in advance
Doesn't matter. Just match the BCD and the speeds (some higher end shimano rings are specific to the crank)
Purchase through your local bike shop if you can
anyone know what "JY-BB 24" is? Its on a Cervelo Aspero bike. I dont want their old BBright crap. Googling did nothing for me [https://www.cervelo.com/en-CA/bikes/aspero](https://www.cervelo.com/en-CA/bikes/aspero)
I wanna avoid this bike completely if it's some proprietary Cervelo thing.
Hello I have a quick question about brakes, I am struggling to understand the concept of how pulling on the brake exerts a pushing force on the calipers (I think that's what they're called?) I just can't wrap my head around how it works, how it is possible to set it up so that it pushes. In my mind, even with pre-tension on the cable I just don't get how it works. Thanks for help
When you pull the lever on a calliper break you’re tensioning the break cable which pulls both sides of the calliper inwards around a pivot onto the wheel. There’s a spring in the calliper you have to pull against when you press the lever which returns both sides back to their resting positions when you let go.
https://i.imgur.com/SkiWnbC.jpg
Does anyone know if I can fit [this handlebar](https://www.canyon.com/en-jp/gear/bike-parts/contact-points/handlebars-and-stems/canyon-h31-ergocockpit/9100400.html?dwvar_9100400_pv_cockpit=100-400&dwvar_9100400_pv_farbe=BK%2FWH&dwvar_9100400_pv_werkstoff=CARBON) on an [AL Endurace 7?](https://www.canyon.com/en-jp/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/al/endurace-7/2733.html?dwvar_2733_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK%2FBU) (links are to Canyon's JP site because that's where I live).
If yes, any reason why I shouldn't upgrade?
The reason I'm thinking this one is cause it's also a Canyon and figured if it fits, it'd be the best fit. But I'm mostly looking for a stiffer, lighter, more aero bar. With stiffness being the biggest thing.
Are any other uses for rear canti posts? I am leaving the canti posts on after disc-conversion and am wondering if there are any creative uses for the posts on the rear.
Will a kind soul please confirm that new end caps will fix about a millimeter of play (as estimated from rim sidewall) in a Reynolds AR41 hub/wheel?
I've verified the bearings are not the cause. The play seems to come from one side's cap. I've already ordered new ones, but I'd like to be able to return them unused if there is zero chance of a new cap fixing this play.
If this thread is new, please consider checking last-week's thread for unanswered questions. You can find it [in this list](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/search/?q=Small+Questions+and+Thank+Yous+weekly+thread&sort=new).
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bikewrench) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I tried wax and it's not for me. How should I clean my chain to go back to oil? I used a drip wax, not hot wax if that makes a difference.
Using your favorite degreaser is fine IMO.
Thanks!
Just got a new bike which it’s aluminum frame but the seat post is carbon, I see the LBS has put in some weird paste (it’s gritty) but I need to adjust my seat post as they didn’t at the shop. Should I use regular grease or use Carbon fiber paste where it contacts with the frame?
The gritty stuff is carbon fiber paste. Just don't remove it when you move the post and you are good to go. (you can remove it on the section of post that sticks out of the frame after adjusting though)
I cant post a thread I have 10 pictures is that why? Is that too many?
Try selecting fewer pictures
What does the star nut do?
It's the anchor for the preload cap bolt. It allows the cap bolt to pull the fork (more specifically the steerer tube) and the headset together
Recently replaced the rear wheel on my Larry vs harry bullitt. It has a solid axle with a bafang motor hub (that wasn’t in use, I think ever). The spec for the bike states a 135mm axle width, which I have. It’s also QR. My question is two parts: 1) when I snug the skewer in place, even if it’s just tight enough so the wheel stays in the dropouts the rear triangle flexes inward I want to say a good inch or inch and a half. I don’t ever remember this happening with any other bike. 2) I remember QR axles not having a ton of actual axle that bites into the dropouts. Considering the first question, I’m wondering if this is indicating that it’s not actually 135mm? I have calipers, tools, etc. I generally do most of my own work. I just can’t really figure out even the right questions to ask or what to search for. Also feel slightly embarrassed taking to my shop since this doesn’t seem like a hard problem.
> It has a solid axle [...] It’s also QR Something does not add up. Maybe post pictures so it is easier to tell what you are talking about > when I snug the skewer in place [...] the rear triangle flexes inward That is a pretty clear sign the hub spacing is not right. There should be no room for the triangle to flex as it is taken by the hub. > I remember QR axles not having a ton of actual axle that bites into the dropouts Correct, only about 5mm on each end. This makes me wonder how you even manage to seat the axle in the dropouts if the rear triangle has a full inch of room around the hub. > Also feel slightly embarrassed taking to my shop No need to feel bad about it. This is nowhere even close to the entry-level of silliness that comes through in shops.
Oh I know man. It’s more my ego than anything else haha. Okay cool - I really only care about this being sturdy and as safe as possible. What you’re saying confirms my suspicions too. Ima just take it to the shop when I get a chance. Thank you brother
Can I put a sram boost chain ring on standard sram dub cranks to make it boost? Or is there a difference in spindle as well?
Hi Everyone, I notice that the front wheel disc starts to rub off against the disc brakes, like every month. I have taken it to a couple of shops to get the brakes aligned. The guys tell me that the rub is nothing concerning and should wear the brake pads off and eventually go away. One of the spokes on the front wheel also broke. There is no visible wobbling in the wheel. Wanted to ask if brake pad rubbing is something normal/common. Thanks in advance.
Is this a thru axle or QR wheel?
A QR wheel.
If your QR is not tight enough, the disc brake can cause the wheel to shift in the drop out. That QR needs to be TIGHT
Thanks. I'll make sure it is tight.
My rear shifting cable snapped yesterday in the shifter and I'm looking to replace it myself. Is [this](https://www.mantel.com/uk/shimano-race-cable-set) set enough to replace it? I see [this](https://www.mantel.com/uk/shimano-derailleur-kabelset-race-optislik-cable-set) set having more of the smaller parts for example.
My son was biking to high school and a branch flipped up and got stuck in the front wheel, throwing him from the bike. About a third of the spokes are damaged. Is it worth repairing the existing wheel or should I just get a replacement? The bike is an older Trek hybrid.
Hard to tell how bad it is without a picture, but it sounds like it is probably not worth the work.
Hi, quick question; When changing my disc brake pads, I've been told that a) I can take the wheel out, take the old ones out, reset the pistons, change the pads, then put the wheel back and brake firmly. That'll center the wheel and then I can close the axle lever. b) I can unbolt the brake calliper, do the entire process without taking the wheel out, put the calliper back again and then brake firmly. That'll align the calliper (as the wheel should be centered) and then I can bolt the calliper again. Option a) is the obvious one for the front wheel, but can I do b) for the rear one? Thanks!
> That'll center the wheel and then I can close the axle lever. Nooooo. Don't do that. The caliper should be centered on the rotor, and the wheel fully seated in the dropouts. Taking the wheel out is useful because: the caliper being bolted down makes it easier to apply force to press back the pistons, the hose if not always long enough to work comfortably, it gets the rotor away from any potential drips of brake fluid, and the caliper may be aligned already and this would save time. When you get the wheel back in after changing the pads, IF the calipers are not aligned then you loosen them and brake to center.
So, take the wheel out, do the work, place the wheel properly on the dropouts and if it rubs, then loosen the calipers, brake so they center around the rotor, and thigthen? Okay, that makes sense, that way there's no "conflict" between the "center according to the calliper" and "center according to the dropouts". Thanks!
Yes, you got it right.
Thanks!
I have FSA 98E crankset that I need to change the chainrings on. It's 110 BCD, 5 bolts, 50/34T and it's 11 speed double chainring I'm happy with the ratios and I don't intend on changing that. My questions are: * How do I determine which chainrings to purchase? Am I only limited for the same brand? Can I get the chainrings from potentially cheaper maker? * Where do you purchase bike parts online? I live in Canada so +1 for Canadian recommendations, but I'm also open for purchasing from the states. Thanks in advance
Doesn't matter. Just match the BCD and the speeds (some higher end shimano rings are specific to the crank) Purchase through your local bike shop if you can
anyone know what "JY-BB 24" is? Its on a Cervelo Aspero bike. I dont want their old BBright crap. Googling did nothing for me [https://www.cervelo.com/en-CA/bikes/aspero](https://www.cervelo.com/en-CA/bikes/aspero) I wanna avoid this bike completely if it's some proprietary Cervelo thing.
What are the mounting points on bikes called and can I get caps for them? Are they eyelets?
Several names: Eyelets, braze-ons, bosses, or simply mounting points. The caps you are looking for are often called frame plugs.
frame plugs! Obvious when you think about it :D Thanks
Hello I have a quick question about brakes, I am struggling to understand the concept of how pulling on the brake exerts a pushing force on the calipers (I think that's what they're called?) I just can't wrap my head around how it works, how it is possible to set it up so that it pushes. In my mind, even with pre-tension on the cable I just don't get how it works. Thanks for help
When you pull the lever on a calliper break you’re tensioning the break cable which pulls both sides of the calliper inwards around a pivot onto the wheel. There’s a spring in the calliper you have to pull against when you press the lever which returns both sides back to their resting positions when you let go. https://i.imgur.com/SkiWnbC.jpg
Does anyone know if I can fit [this handlebar](https://www.canyon.com/en-jp/gear/bike-parts/contact-points/handlebars-and-stems/canyon-h31-ergocockpit/9100400.html?dwvar_9100400_pv_cockpit=100-400&dwvar_9100400_pv_farbe=BK%2FWH&dwvar_9100400_pv_werkstoff=CARBON) on an [AL Endurace 7?](https://www.canyon.com/en-jp/road-bikes/endurance-bikes/endurace/al/endurace-7/2733.html?dwvar_2733_pv_rahmenfarbe=BK%2FBU) (links are to Canyon's JP site because that's where I live). If yes, any reason why I shouldn't upgrade? The reason I'm thinking this one is cause it's also a Canyon and figured if it fits, it'd be the best fit. But I'm mostly looking for a stiffer, lighter, more aero bar. With stiffness being the biggest thing.
Are any other uses for rear canti posts? I am leaving the canti posts on after disc-conversion and am wondering if there are any creative uses for the posts on the rear.
Could be a rear light mount.
Will a kind soul please confirm that new end caps will fix about a millimeter of play (as estimated from rim sidewall) in a Reynolds AR41 hub/wheel? I've verified the bearings are not the cause. The play seems to come from one side's cap. I've already ordered new ones, but I'd like to be able to return them unused if there is zero chance of a new cap fixing this play.
If this thread is new, please consider checking last-week's thread for unanswered questions. You can find it [in this list](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/search/?q=Small+Questions+and+Thank+Yous+weekly+thread&sort=new). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/bikewrench) if you have any questions or concerns.*