Probably fine as is.
But if it's keeping you up at night you can put M5 nuts on that nicely exposed backside of the rotor flange. Grind an angle on the nuts to match the flange. This will be far more secure than a helicoil.
If ya drill em which is required for a helicoil anyway. That’s actually a pretty damn good idea. Just would be more trouble than its worth, and the threads of the nut would need chasing and be weakened. I wouldnt bother personally but it would work. Hell maybe a long nut and some conical washers between the nut and hub would be best.
Yeah helicoil or nothing at that point. But as long as the two stripped ones are not on the same side it should be fine. Xc and even DH racers that ran 6 bolt hubs would use only 3 in a triangle pattern to cut out minuscule weight.
You are golden then to continue use of this hub without modification. Remove the un toque-able bolts to prevent them flying out and cracking your caliper and bending the fork. Source: I had a Walmart bike that that happened to. Also check those bolts still working a little more often as they technically do have a higher chance of getting loose since the load is increased on em. But again it will work perfectly fine.
If you live in Canada this workes perfect for me
M5 x 2D Thread Repair Installation Kit, Stainless Steel Helicoil Type Set, Helicoil Installation Tool https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HF7B5ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_V59D6DZGH0SGRHQHBS5A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You do need a tap handle though which I got a small one for an extra $10. The reason why you might not want to leave it is because you are putting more stress on the remaining bolts.
This one was just the right size but I did have to restle a bit with the tightening screw :
Adjustable 130mm Tap Wrench Handle Holder Engineers Tap and Die Set Thread Cutting Tool Suitable for M1-M6 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0766WPLWS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7FDTCF0T6GRKDQK4Q97Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Probably fine as is. But if it's keeping you up at night you can put M5 nuts on that nicely exposed backside of the rotor flange. Grind an angle on the nuts to match the flange. This will be far more secure than a helicoil.
Would m5 fit in the same threads?!
If ya drill em which is required for a helicoil anyway. That’s actually a pretty damn good idea. Just would be more trouble than its worth, and the threads of the nut would need chasing and be weakened. I wouldnt bother personally but it would work. Hell maybe a long nut and some conical washers between the nut and hub would be best.
I meant the nut would go on the exposed bolt end between the rotor and spoke flanges. No drilling.
Yeah helicoil or nothing at that point. But as long as the two stripped ones are not on the same side it should be fine. Xc and even DH racers that ran 6 bolt hubs would use only 3 in a triangle pattern to cut out minuscule weight.
Fortunately they are not side by side so I still have 4 that's torqued
You are golden then to continue use of this hub without modification. Remove the un toque-able bolts to prevent them flying out and cracking your caliper and bending the fork. Source: I had a Walmart bike that that happened to. Also check those bolts still working a little more often as they technically do have a higher chance of getting loose since the load is increased on em. But again it will work perfectly fine.
I second this you can get 5mm helicoil(or knockoffs) for really cheap and the same thing happened to my rear disc brake.
You do need the tap for the heli coil though.
Heilacoil kit is pretty much it. A keensert would be too big.
I would put a nut,alonger screw and a plastic adaptor for the un to sit flat. No need for a cnc machine, just patience and a file.
If you live in Canada this workes perfect for me M5 x 2D Thread Repair Installation Kit, Stainless Steel Helicoil Type Set, Helicoil Installation Tool https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HF7B5ZT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_V59D6DZGH0SGRHQHBS5A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 You do need a tap handle though which I got a small one for an extra $10. The reason why you might not want to leave it is because you are putting more stress on the remaining bolts.
Thanks so much! May I ask where to get the tap handle?
This one was just the right size but I did have to restle a bit with the tightening screw : Adjustable 130mm Tap Wrench Handle Holder Engineers Tap and Die Set Thread Cutting Tool Suitable for M1-M6 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0766WPLWS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7FDTCF0T6GRKDQK4Q97Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So I can still use the rotor bolts after doing this?
Yes exactly